An Alaska Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale is a document that records the sale of a car, truck, motorcycle, or trailer between a buyer and a seller, listing the price, the vehicle details, and both signatures. The seller fills it out with the buyer, and both parties keep a copy as proof that ownership changed hands on a set date.
Here is the part that trips up most people. The Alaska Division of Motor Vehicles does not treat a bill of sale as the document that transfers legal ownership. The title does that. But the DMV still calls a bill of sale “a good idea” because it protects you if the buyer racks up parking tickets or worse before they register the car in their own name. Alaska processes well over half a million vehicle transactions a year, and a missing or sloppy bill of sale is one of the easiest ways for a private seller to stay on the hook for a car they no longer own.
In this guide you will learn:
- 📝 How to fill out every line of the Alaska bill of sale, from the parties to the notary block
- 🚗 Which extra forms (like Form 812 and Form 839) you must file with it
- 💵 What the price, gift, and trade boxes really mean for taxes and fees
- ⏱️ The 10-day registration deadline and what happens if the buyer blows past it
- 🛡️ The exact mistakes that leave sellers liable for a car they already sold
What the Alaska Vehicle Bill of Sale Is and Who Must Use It
An Alaska Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale is a written record of a private vehicle sale. It names the buyer and seller, describes the vehicle, states the price, and locks in the date of the sale. The widely used eForms Alaska template breaks the deal into six numbered sections plus an odometer statement and an optional notary block, and it is the version this guide walks through.
Alaska does not publish one single state bill of sale form the way it publishes Form 812. Because of that, sellers use a generic state-compliant template, and the DMV accepts any version that includes the vehicle’s serial number, a description, both printed names, the sale date, and both signatures. That short list is the legal floor the DMV spells out on its “Selling a Vehicle” page.
You should use a bill of sale any time you sell or buy a vehicle from a private party. The seller uses it to prove the car left their hands on a certain day, which cuts off liability for tickets, tolls, and accidents after that date. The buyer uses it because the DMV requires a bill of sale as a supporting document when they register the car in their name.
The form does not stand alone. It rides along with the official Application for Title and Registration (Form 812), the signed title assignment, an odometer disclosure, and proof of insurance. Think of the bill of sale as the receipt and Form 812 as the application. The state agency that receives everything is the Alaska DMV, and the rules come from Alaska Statutes Title 28, which governs motor vehicle titling and registration.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you sit down to fill out the form. A bill of sale with a blank or guessed-at field is worse than no bill of sale, because a wrong VIN or odometer reading can void the protection you wanted in the first place. Here is the pre-filing checklist.
- The vehicle title. You need the title to read the exact VIN and to complete the Assignment of Vehicle Title by Owner. Without it, the owner on DMV record must apply for a duplicate before ownership can transfer.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Copy it straight from the title or the dashboard plate. One wrong character makes the bill of sale point at a different car, which can stall registration.
- The current odometer reading. Federal and Alaska law require a mileage statement at transfer. A missing reading on a vehicle under ten years old blocks the title transfer.
- Both parties’ full legal names and mailing addresses. The DMV cross-checks names, so use the names as they appear on the title and on each person’s ID.
- The agreed sale price (or gift value or trade details). This drives the tax and fee section and any local sales tax owed.
- The date and county of the sale. The date is what cuts off the seller’s liability, so it must be exact.
- Proof of insurance. The buyer needs coverage of at least $50,000 per person, $100,000 per accident, and $25,000 property damage to register the car.
- A notary, if needed. Notarization is not always required, but you want one if the title is missing or someone signs on another person’s behalf.
- Form 812 and Form 839. Have the Application for Title and Registration and the Odometer Disclosure Statement ready to file with the bill of sale.
If any single item is missing, stop and find it first. A buyer who shows up at the DMV with a bill of sale but no signed title cannot register the car, and a seller who forgets to record the date gives up the very protection the document exists to provide.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can download a free, state-compliant Alaska Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale from eForms or from Legal Templates, both in PDF and Word formats. Because the DMV does not host its own bill of sale, these templates are the standard choice, and the Legal Templates version was last updated December 15, 2025, so it reflects current Alaska practice.
The official forms that go with it live on the Alaska DMV Forms page. That is where you grab Form 812 (Application for Title and Registration) and Form 839 (Odometer Disclosure Statement). Download these from the state site, not a random third party, so you know you have the current revision.
You can fill out the bill of sale by hand in blue or black ink, or you can type it in the Word or PDF version before printing. Typed entries are easier to read and harder to dispute later, which matters if the deal ever ends up in small claims court. Print two copies once it is complete, because the buyer and seller each keep one.
If you live more than 50 miles from a DMV office, you can handle the title work through the Remote Alaska Title Procedures process and mail the rest. Everyone within 50 miles of an office must register in person. Either way, the bill of sale is something you complete at the moment of sale, not at the counter.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Alaska Bill of Sale Line by Line
Work through the form in the order the sections are numbered. Every section below tells you what it asks, how to answer it, a real example, a common edge case, a mistake to avoid, and a myth to drop.
Section 1: The Parties
This section asks where and when the sale happens and who is buying and selling. It opens with “This transaction is made in the County of _, State of Alaska, on _, 20__,” then gives you a Buyer line and a Seller line, each with a name and mailing address.
To answer it, write the borough or census area where the sale takes place, then the full date. Enter the buyer’s full legal name and mailing address, then the seller’s full legal name and mailing address, exactly as they read on each person’s ID and on the title.
For example, Sarah Whitfield sells her car in Matanuska-Susitna Borough on June 6, 2026. She writes the buyer as David Cho, 1450 Birch Lane, Wasilla, AK 99654 and the seller as Sarah Whitfield, 22 Spruce Court, Palmer, AK 99645.
A common edge case is co-owners. If the title lists two owners joined by “AND,” both must sign as sellers and both names belong here; if joined by “OR,” only one needs to sign. A frequent mistake is using a nickname or maiden name that does not match the title, which can make the DMV question whether the seller had the right to sell, and that mismatch can hold up the buyer’s registration. The myth to drop is that the address can be a future one; it should be each party’s current mailing address so the DMV and the other party can reach them.
Section 2: Vehicle Description
This section asks for the details that identify the exact vehicle. It has fields for Make, Model, Body Type, Year, Color, Odometer (in miles), and the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
To answer it, copy each field from the title and the dashboard. Write the make and model as the manufacturer spells them, the body type (sedan, pickup, motorcycle), the model year, the current color, the odometer reading in whole miles, and the full VIN with no spaces.
For example, David and Sarah describe the car as Make Toyota, Model Camry, Body Type Sedan, Year 2018, Color Silver, Odometer 68,240 Miles, VIN 4T1B11HK5JU123456.
A common edge case is a repainted vehicle; list the current color, not the factory color, so the description matches what the buyer drives away. The biggest mistake here is a wrong VIN, because the bill of sale then legally describes a different car and offers no protection for the one that actually changed hands. The myth to drop is that the license plate number identifies the car; plates stay with the seller in Alaska and a new set goes to the buyer, so only the VIN truly pins down the vehicle.
Section 3: The Exchange
This section asks how the buyer pays for the vehicle, and you check one of four boxes. The choices are Cash Payment with a dollar amount, Trade with a cash amount plus a described trade-in vehicle, As a Gift with the vehicle’s value, or Other with a written explanation.
To answer it, check the one box that matches your deal and fill in the dollar figure. For a cash sale, write the full price. For a trade, write the cash difference and describe the trade-in’s make, model, body type, year, color, and odometer. For a gift, write the fair market value even though no money changes hands.
For example, David buys Sarah’s Camry for cash, so he checks Cash Payment and writes $14,500. In a different deal, Marcus Reed trades his truck plus $3,000 toward a newer one and describes his 2015 Ford F-150, Black, 92,000 Miles on the trade lines.
A common edge case is a gift to a relative; you still must list a value because the state and any local borough may use it for tax purposes. A common mistake is leaving the dollar amount blank on a gift, which can trigger questions about whether tax is owed. The myth to drop is that writing a fake low price helps the buyer dodge tax; that is a false statement on a legal document and can expose both parties to penalties.
Section 4: Taxes
This section asks who pays the municipal, borough, and state taxes tied to the sale, including any local sales tax. You check one of two boxes: Buyer and not included in the exchange, or Seller and included as part of the exchange.
To answer it, decide who absorbs the tax and check that box. Alaska has no statewide sales tax, but many boroughs and cities do, so this line settles who covers any local sales tax on the deal.
For example, David and Sarah agree the buyer pays any local tax, so they check Buyer and not included in the exchange. In a city like Wasilla that charges a local sales tax, David then pays that tax on top of the $14,500.
A common edge case is a sale in an area with no local sales tax, where the box still gets checked but no tax actually comes due. The mistake to avoid is leaving this blank, which can spark a dispute later about who owed the tax. The myth to drop is that Alaska has no sales tax at all; the state has none, but local governments often do, and this box exists for exactly that reason.
Section 5: Buyer and Seller Conditions
This section is the “as is” clause. It states that the seller affirms the vehicle information is accurate to the best of their knowledge and that the buyer accepts the vehicle in “as is, where is” condition with no guarantees or warranties, express or implied.
There is nothing to fill in here, but both parties should read it before signing. It means the buyer takes the car with all faults and cannot come back later demanding repairs unless the seller lied about something.
For example, when David signs, he accepts that if the Camry’s transmission fails next week, that is his problem, not Sarah’s, because he bought it as is.
A common edge case is a seller who promised something specific, like “new brakes.” If a buyer relies on that, write it into Section 6’s “Other” space or a separate note, because the blanket “as is” clause otherwise wipes out spoken promises. The mistake to avoid is signing without reading this clause, then expecting a refund for a known defect. The myth to drop is that “as is” lets a seller hide problems; deliberate fraud, like rolling back an odometer, is still illegal no matter what this clause says.
Section 6: Authorization (Signatures)
This section is where the deal becomes real. It has a Buyer Signature line with date and printed name, and a Seller Signature line with date and printed name.
To answer it, each party signs in ink, writes the date of signing, and prints their name below the signature. The dates should match the sale date in Section 1.
For example, David Cho signs, dates it 06/06/2026, and prints David Cho, then Sarah Whitfield signs, dates it 06/06/2026, and prints Sarah Whitfield.
A common edge case is signing for someone else; that requires a notarized Motor Vehicle Power of Attorney, and the agent signs their own name noting the authority. The mistake to avoid is a missing seller signature, which makes the document worthless as proof the seller released the car. The myth to drop is that an unsigned bill of sale still counts; without both signatures it is just notes, not evidence.
The Odometer Disclosure Statement
This block, attached to the bill of sale and mirrored by the official Form 839, asks the seller to certify the mileage at transfer. It states the odometer reading and offers two checkboxes: one certifying the reading exceeds the odometer’s mechanical limits, and one certifying the reading is not the actual mileage.
To answer it, write the mileage, leave both boxes unchecked if the reading is accurate, and check the matching box only if the odometer has rolled over or is broken. Both buyer and seller then sign, date, and print their names.
For example, Sarah certifies 68,240 Miles, leaves both warning boxes blank because the reading is true, and both parties sign.
A common edge case is a vehicle older than ten years (model year before 2016 for a 2026 sale) or over 12,000 pounds unladen, which is exempt from federal odometer disclosure. The mistake to avoid is guessing the mileage, because a false odometer statement can bring fines or even imprisonment under federal law. The myth to drop is that odometer disclosure is optional; for most cars under ten years old it is required to complete the title transfer.
The Notary Acknowledgment (Seller Only)
This optional block lets a notary public verify the seller’s identity. It has spaces for the state and county, the date, the notary’s name and title, the seller’s name, and the notary’s signature, commission expiration, and seal.
To complete it, the seller signs in front of a notary, who then fills in the acknowledgment, signs, and stamps it. Alaska does not always require notarization, so this stays blank in a routine sale.
For example, if Sarah lost the title and is selling before the duplicate arrives, she gets the bill of sale notarized so the buyer has stronger proof of the transfer.
A common edge case is an agent signing under a power of attorney, where notarization is strongly advised. The mistake to avoid is paying for a notary you do not need on a simple, fully documented sale. The myth to drop is that notarization transfers ownership; only the signed title does that, and the notary just confirms who signed.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common Alaska deals, each followed from start to finish through the bill of sale.
Scenario 1: Standard Cash Sale Between Two Individuals
Sarah Whitfield sells her 2018 Toyota Camry to David Cho for cash in Wasilla.
| Form Section | What David and Sarah Enter |
|---|---|
| County and date (Section 1) | Matanuska-Susitna Borough, June 6, 2026 |
| Buyer | David Cho, 1450 Birch Lane, Wasilla, AK 99654 |
| Seller | Sarah Whitfield, 22 Spruce Court, Palmer, AK 99645 |
| Make / Model / Year (Section 2) | Toyota / Camry / 2018 |
| Odometer / VIN | 68,240 Miles / 4T1B11HK5JU123456 |
| Exchange (Section 3) | Cash Payment, $14,500 |
| Taxes (Section 4) | Buyer, not included in exchange |
| Conditions (Section 5) | As is, where is, accepted |
| Signatures (Section 6) | Both sign and date 06/06/2026 |
| Odometer statement | 68,240 Miles, no warning boxes checked |
Scenario 2: Vehicle Given as a Gift to a Family Member
Robert Nguyen gives his paid-off 2014 Honda CR-V to his daughter, Lena Nguyen, in Anchorage.
| Form Section | What Robert and Lena Enter |
|---|---|
| County and date (Section 1) | Anchorage, June 6, 2026 |
| Buyer | Lena Nguyen, 880 Cedar St, Anchorage, AK 99501 |
| Seller | Robert Nguyen, 880 Cedar St, Anchorage, AK 99501 |
| Make / Model / Year (Section 2) | Honda / CR-V / 2014 |
| Odometer / VIN | 119,500 Miles / 5J6RM4H75EL098765 |
| Exchange (Section 3) | As a Gift, value $9,000 |
| Taxes (Section 4) | Buyer, not included in exchange |
| Conditions (Section 5) | As is, where is, accepted |
| Signatures (Section 6) | Both sign and date 06/06/2026 |
| Odometer statement | 119,500 Miles, no warning boxes checked |
Scenario 3: Trade Plus Cash Deal
Marcus Reed trades his 2015 Ford F-150 plus cash for Tina Alvarez’s 2020 Subaru Outback in Fairbanks.
| Form Section | What Marcus and Tina Enter |
|---|---|
| County and date (Section 1) | Fairbanks North Star Borough, June 6, 2026 |
| Buyer | Marcus Reed, 305 Aurora Dr, Fairbanks, AK 99701 |
| Seller | Tina Alvarez, 12 Glacier Ave, Fairbanks, AK 99709 |
| Make / Model / Year (Section 2) | Subaru / Outback / 2020 |
| Odometer / VIN | 41,300 Miles / 4S4BSANC9L3201122 |
| Exchange (Section 3) | Trade, $3,000 plus 2015 Ford F-150, Black, 92,000 Miles |
| Taxes (Section 4) | Buyer, not included in exchange |
| Conditions (Section 5) | As is, where is, accepted |
| Signatures (Section 6) | Both sign and date 06/06/2026 |
| Odometer statement | 41,300 Miles, no warning boxes checked |
How to File the Completed Bill of Sale
The bill of sale itself is not filed alone; the buyer brings it to the DMV as a supporting document when registering the car. Below is how each channel works, since the registration must happen within ten days of the sale.
In person. If the buyer lives within 50 miles of a DMV office, they must register in person. They bring the bill of sale, the signed title, Form 812, Form 839, and proof of insurance. The standard registration fee is $100 for passenger vehicles and $60 for motorcycles, plus any local property tax, payable by check or other accepted methods at the counter. Keep the stamped receipt as proof of filing.
By mail (remote residents). Buyers more than 50 miles from any office use the Remote Alaska Title Procedures and mail Form 812 with the bill of sale, title, odometer statement, and a check for the fees. Mail to the DMV address listed on the Selling a Vehicle page, and keep copies plus the mailing receipt as proof.
Online (seller’s notice). The seller can report the sale through the DMV’s Report Sale or Transfer of Vehicle tool, or complete the Notice of Vehicle Sale attached to the bottom of the title. This does not register the car but tells the DMV the seller is no longer the owner. Save the confirmation as proof you reported it.
No matter the channel, the seller should send the Notice of Transfer to the DMV as soon as possible so the state stops linking the car to them. The buyer’s job is to register; the seller’s job is to give notice.
What Happens After You File
Once the buyer files everything, the DMV processes the title transfer and issues a new title in the buyer’s name, along with a new set of plates. The two-year registration period begins, and the DMV mails a renewal letter when expiration is less than 30 days away. After this first registration, the buyer can use the online renewal system going forward.
For the seller, the payoff comes from the Notice of Transfer Pending. Once the DMV records that notice, it will not renew registration in the seller’s name, and the seller’s liability for the vehicle ends as of the sale date on the bill of sale. That date is why the document matters so much.
If the buyer never registers the car, the title stays in the seller’s name on DMV records, which is the exact situation a bill of sale guards against. With a signed, dated bill of sale and a filed Notice of Transfer, the seller can show the DMV, police, or a court the precise day they handed the car over. Without it, the seller can be tagged for tickets, tolls, or accidents the new owner causes.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Each error below has a direct cost, so check your form against this list before anyone signs.
- Wrong VIN. The document then describes a different car and gives you no protection on the one you actually sold.
- Blank odometer reading. Federal law blocks the title transfer on vehicles under ten years old without a mileage statement.
- Guessed or false mileage. A false odometer certification can bring fines or imprisonment.
- Missing sale date. You lose the cutoff that ends the seller’s liability.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name. A name that does not match the title can stall the buyer’s registration.
- Leaving the price or gift value blank. This creates tax disputes and questions about what was really paid.
- Forgetting a co-owner’s signature. A title joined by “AND” needs every owner’s signature to release it.
- Skipping the seller’s Notice of Transfer. The DMV keeps linking the car to the seller until that notice is filed.
- Not keeping a copy. With no copy, the seller cannot prove the sale terms or date later.
- Writing a fake low price to dodge tax. That is a false statement on a legal document and exposes both parties to penalties.
- Assuming the bill of sale transfers ownership. Only the signed title does that, and skipping the title leaves the deal incomplete.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do use the names exactly as they appear on the title, because the DMV cross-checks them.
- Do copy the VIN straight from the title to avoid a single wrong character.
- Do fill in every blank, since the DMV warns against leaving any space empty on the transfer.
- Do sign in ink and date the document the same day as the sale for a clean liability cutoff.
- Do make two copies so the buyer and seller each hold proof.
- Do file the seller’s Notice of Transfer right away to end your liability.
Don’ts
- Don’t leave the odometer line blank, because it can void the title transfer.
- Don’t understate the price, since a false figure is illegal and invites penalties.
- Don’t rely on spoken promises, because the “as is” clause cancels them unless written in.
- Don’t let the buyer drive off without signing, or you have no proof they took the car.
- Don’t assume you need a notary on every sale; you mostly do not.
- Don’t treat the bill of sale as the title; the signed title is what transfers ownership.
Pros and Cons of Doing It Yourself vs. Using a Service
Most Alaskans complete a private sale on their own, but a paid template service or attorney can add a safety net for high-value or unusual deals.
Pros of doing it yourself
- It is free, because the templates and DMV forms cost nothing to download.
- It is fast, since you can finish the form in minutes at the time of sale.
- You keep full control over the wording and the terms.
- It works for the vast majority of routine private sales.
- You learn the process, which helps the next time you buy or sell.
Cons of doing it yourself
- You carry the risk of a missed field that voids your protection.
- You may not know when notarization is truly needed.
- You handle the tax and odometer rules without expert review.
- A complex deal, like a trade with a lien, can outrun a basic template.
- Mistakes surface later, often after the buyer has vanished.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Alaska require a bill of sale to sell a car?
No. The signed title transfers ownership, but the DMV strongly recommends a bill of sale because it protects the seller from liability and serves as a required document when the buyer registers.
Does an Alaska vehicle bill of sale need to be notarized?
No. Notarization is not always required, but you should get the seller’s signature notarized when the title is missing or when someone signs on another person’s behalf.
Can I use a bill of sale instead of a title in Alaska?
No. A bill of sale is not valid for transferring ownership; only the properly assigned vehicle title can do that under Alaska law.
How long does the buyer have to register the vehicle?
Yes, there is a deadline. The buyer must register within ten days of the sale date, or within ten days of becoming an Alaska resident for out-of-state purchases.
Do I write the current color or the factory color in the vehicle description?
Yes, write the current color. List the color the car is now, even if it was repainted, so the description matches the vehicle the buyer drives away.
What do I put in the price box if the car is a gift?
Yes, you still enter a value. Check the “As a Gift” box and write the vehicle’s fair market value, since the state and local boroughs may use it for tax purposes.
Do both owners have to sign if the title lists two names?
Yes, if the names are joined by “AND.” If joined by “OR,” only one owner needs to sign to release the title.
Should I check an odometer warning box on a normal sale?
No. Leave both warning boxes blank if the reading is accurate, and check one only if the odometer rolled over its limit or is not the actual mileage.
Do I need to report the sale even after I sign the title over?
Yes. File the Notice of Transfer Pending or report online so the DMV stops linking the vehicle to you and ends your liability.
Is there a statewide sales tax to enter in the tax section?
No. Alaska has no statewide sales tax, but many boroughs and cities charge local sales tax, which is why the tax box settles who pays it.
Can someone sign the bill of sale for me?
Yes, with a notarized Motor Vehicle Power of Attorney. The agent signs their own name and notes the authority, and notarization is strongly advised.
What is the registration fee after I buy the car?
Yes, there is a fee. The standard fee is $100 for passenger vehicles and $60 for motorcycles, plus any local property tax owed in your borough.
Do I need an odometer disclosure on an older car?
No, not always. Vehicles older than ten years or with an unladen weight over 12,000 pounds are exempt from the federal odometer disclosure requirement.
What happens if the buyer never registers the car?
No good for the seller. The title stays in the seller’s name on DMV records, which is why a signed, dated bill of sale and a filed Notice of Transfer are essential.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Nebraska DMV Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Alaska DMV Application for Certificate of Title (Form V1) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Alaska DMV Vehicle Registration Application (Form 812 / V1) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Hawaii County DMV Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Idaho ITD Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out North Dakota DOT Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs