The Colorado DR 2922, called Title or Salvage Title Established by Surety Bond, is the Colorado Department of Revenue, Division of Motor Vehicles checklist you follow when you own a vehicle or manufactured home but the title is missing, lost, or wrong, and you cannot fix it the normal way. You complete it when you have possession of the vehicle, the vehicle sits in Colorado, and no clean title exists to transfer to you.
This form is not a single page you sign and mail. It is a nine-step roadmap that ties together a Certified VIN inspection (DR 2704), a record search, owner and lien contact letters, a vehicle appraisal, a surety bond, and a sworn bond statement. Skip one step and your county motor vehicle office sends you home. The most current version of the form carries a revision date in the lower corner, so confirm you have the latest one before you start. Bonded titles stay flagged for three years, and a Colorado title bond starts at just $100 for that full term, which is why thousands of buyers each year pick this path over hiring a lawyer.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📋 What the DR 2922 actually is and who must use the bonding-for-title process
- 🔍 The exact documents, fees, and ID you must gather before you begin
- ✍️ A line-by-line, step-by-step walkthrough of every box and form in the packet
- 👥 Three real filled-out examples that follow named owners from start to finish
- ⚠️ The costly mistakes that get bonding packets rejected and how to dodge them
What the DR 2922 Is and Who Must File It
The DR 2922 is the official bonding-for-title instruction sheet from the Colorado Division of Motor Vehicles. It exists for one reason: to give a clear, lawful path to a title when the paper trail breaks. You use it when ownership documents are not available or are incorrect and cannot be transacted on. The agency that receives your finished packet is your county motor vehicle office, not the state DMV in Denver.
Two rules decide if you even qualify. First, you must have possession of the motor vehicle or manufactured home. Second, the vehicle must be physically located in Colorado. If you bought a car in another state and left it there, you cannot bond it in Colorado yet. The bonding process rests on Colorado motor vehicle title law under C.R.S. Title 42, which gives the state the right to demand a surety bond as protection for any true owner who later appears.
The typical filer is a private buyer who paid cash for a used car and got only a bill of sale, never a signed title. But the form also covers manufactured (mobile) home owners, people who bought from a seller who skipped the country, heirs who never got proper paperwork, and owners of salvage vehicles. The bond protects everyone. If a real prior owner or lienholder surfaces within three years, they can make a claim against your bond instead of losing their property with no recourse. That is the trade: you get a usable title now, and the public gets a safety net.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Bonding for title fails most often because people open the packet before they gather their pieces. Treat this like packing for a trip. Get everything in one folder first, then fill out the forms. Missing even one item below stalls the whole packet and can force you to restart steps that expire.
Here is your pre-filing checklist:
- Proof you possess the vehicle. A bill of sale, receipt, or Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale (DR 2173) shows how and when you got it; without it, the county doubts your standing to bond.
- The full VIN, year, make, and model. Every form and the bond itself must match this exactly; one wrong digit voids the bond.
- Certified VIN Inspection (DR 2704). A P.O.S.T. certified inspector verifies the VIN; the inspection costs $50.00 and must be less than one year old, or the county rejects it.
- A Colorado record search request (DR 2489A). This finds the owner of record and any liens; without it you cannot prove you tried to contact them.
- Certified or registered mail receipts (PS 3811 green cards). These prove you mailed contact letters; missing receipts mean the county treats your attempt as if it never happened.
- A vehicle appraisal. A licensed Colorado dealer or an approved valuation source sets the reasonable value; the bond amount depends on it, so a guessed value is rejected.
- The surety bond or deposit. You must post a bond for twice the reasonable value of the vehicle; an under-posted bond is denied.
- Secure and Verifiable Identification. See DR 2841 for the accepted ID list; no valid ID means no title, period.
- Title fee of $7.20. This is the state title charge under C.R.S. 42; counties may add small fees, so bring extra.
Gather these first because several items have clocks on them. The VIN inspection dies after one year. The bond uses today’s value, so a stale appraisal forces a new one. The In Lieu of Bond Affidavit, for vehicles over 25 years old, needs a bill of sale less than 45 days old.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The DR 2922 lives on the Colorado DMV website, and you should always pull the newest copy so the steps, fees, and statute references are current. You can download the official PDF straight from the Colorado DMV bonding-for-title page, which hosts the DR 2922 plus the companion forms it points to. Many county clerk sites also post a ready-made “bonding packet,” such as the El Paso County bonding packets page, which bundles the DR 2922, DR 2489A, and DR 2394 together.
The DR 2922 itself is a three-page instruction and checklist sheet, not a fillable data form. It is the map. The actual data you write goes onto the companion forms it names. So when people search for “how to fill out the DR 2922,” they really need to fill out the packet the DR 2922 directs them through. Print the DR 2922 and keep it on top of your folder as your master checklist.
You cannot file this process online. Bonding for title is an in-person process at your county motor vehicle office because staff must inspect your originals, verify your ID, and confirm the bond. You may download and prepare everything from home, but the final hand-off happens at the counter. Call your county office first; some take walk-ins, others require an appointment for bonded titles.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Colorado DR 2922 Packet Line by Line
The DR 2922 lists nine numbered steps. Below, each step gets its own walkthrough in the exact order printed on the form. Follow them top to bottom, because later steps depend on documents you create in earlier ones.
Step 1: Certified VIN Inspection (DR 2704)
What this step asks in plain English. Have a qualified officer look at your vehicle and confirm the VIN matches the metal. You prove the car is real and the number is genuine.
How to complete it. Call your county motor vehicle office for a referral to a P.O.S.T. certified inspector, take the vehicle in, and have them fill out the Certified VIN Inspection (DR 2704). Pay the $50.00 fee by cash or check only. Keep the original and make a photocopy, because later steps need copies.
A specific example. Daniel Ortiz drives his 2014 Honda Civic to the inspector, who records the VIN 2HGFG12814H123456 on the DR 2704 and signs it. Daniel writes the inspection date and clips a photocopy to his folder.
A nuance or edge case. Manufactured homes are exempt from the DR 2704. Instead you complete a Verification of VIN (DR 2698). The criteria differ slightly, so tell the county up front that your item is a manufactured home.
A common mistake and its consequence. Letting the inspection age past one year is the top error here. An expired DR 2704 is worthless, and the county makes you pay $50 and inspect again before anything moves.
A misconception people hold. Many think the inspector decides if you “qualify” to bond. The inspector only verifies the VIN and roadworthiness. The bonding decision happens at the county counter, not the inspection bay.
Step 2: Record Search and Owner Contact (DR 2489A)
What this step asks in plain English. Find out who the law thinks owns the car, then try to reach them so they can object or sign off.
How to complete it. Fill out the Motor Vehicle Requestor Release Affidavit of Intended Use (DR 2489A) to order a Colorado title and lien record search, paying the small fee (about $2.20). Then mail the owner of record a letter by certified or registered mail, return receipt requested, and save the green card (PS 3811). Attach a photocopy of your DR 2704 to the DR 2489A.
A specific example. Daniel Ortiz runs the search, learns the last owner is Karen Webb, and mails her a certified letter at her listed address. He staples the green card and the search result behind his DR 2489A.
A nuance or edge case. Out-of-state vehicles need a title and lien record search from the prior state in addition to the Colorado search. A single search is not enough for a car last titled in, say, Kansas.
A common mistake and its consequence. Sending a regular first-class letter instead of certified mail is fatal. With no green card, the county rules you never tried to contact the owner, and the packet cannot proceed.
A misconception people hold. People assume the owner must reply. They do not. You only need to prove the attempt. The returned receipt or an “undeliverable” result both satisfy the step.
Step 3: Lien Release (When a Lien Appears)
What this step asks in plain English. If the search shows someone still has a loan claim on the car, you must clear it or prove you tried.
How to complete it. Get a lien release on the lienholder’s letterhead listing the vehicle year, make, VIN, title owner’s name, the agent’s signature, and the release date, signed under penalty of perjury in the second degree as defined in C.R.S. Photocopies and faxed copies are accepted. A release is not required when the lienholder is an individual.
A specific example. Daniel Ortiz finds a lien from Summit Credit Union. He calls, and they fax a release on letterhead listing the VIN and signing off the loan. Daniel adds it to his packet.
A nuance or edge case. If the lienholder will not respond, send a certified letter to their last known address. If it returns undeliverable, you may bond for the amount of the lien instead, and keep the USPS proof.
A common mistake and its consequence. Submitting a release on a plain sticky note or email with no letterhead gets it tossed. Without an acceptable release or proof of a failed attempt, you need a court order, which adds months.
A misconception people hold. Owners think any old loan kills the deal. A paid-off loan still listed as a lien is common and is cleared with one letterhead release; it does not block the bond.
Step 4: Abandoned Manufactured Home Documents
What this step asks in plain English. This step applies only to manufactured homes that are abandoned. It does not apply to motor vehicles at all.
How to complete it. Provide a copy of the court order or judgment for possession obtained through a civil proceeding, identifying the home by year, make, and VIN. Add proof you own the real property where the home sits, such as the real property deed, plus proof property taxes are paid, like a Certificate of Taxes Due from the County Treasurer.
A specific example. Linda Brooks owns a lot where a 1998 mobile home was left behind. She files a civil action, gets a possession order naming the home and VIN, and attaches her deed and a paid-tax certificate.
A nuance or edge case. Proof of paid property taxes is required on all manufactured home bond applications, abandoned or not. Skip it and the county returns the packet.
A common mistake and its consequence. Vehicle owners waste days reading this step. If you have a car, skip Step 4 entirely; trying to supply a real property deed for a car only confuses your packet.
A misconception people hold. People think a mobile home is “just like a car.” Manufactured homes follow extra rules tied to land, taxes, and county assessor values, so the path is different from a vehicle.
Step 5: Establish the Vehicle’s Reasonable Value
What this step asks in plain English. Figure out what the vehicle is worth, the right way, so the bond can be sized correctly.
How to complete it. Use an approved method: a price guide book or computerized valuation service if the vehicle is newer than seven years old, or an appraisal from a licensed Colorado automotive dealer. A dealer appraisal must identify the vehicle by year, make, and VIN, include the dealer’s license number, and be signed and dated. If it is not on dealer letterhead, it must be notarized or signed under penalty of perjury.
A specific example. Daniel Ortiz takes his Civic to a licensed dealer, who appraises it at $8,000, writes the VIN and license number on letterhead, and signs it. Daniel now knows his bond must be $16,000.
A nuance or edge case. Manufactured home values must come from the County Assessor’s records, not a dealer, and the records must name the home by year, make, and VIN.
A common mistake and its consequence. Using a printout that lacks the VIN or dealer license number gets the appraisal rejected, which means a wrong bond amount and a denied title.
A misconception people hold. Owners think they can name their own low value to shrink the bond. The value must come from an approved source, and lowballing only triggers a redo.
Step 6: Post the Surety Bond or Deposit
What this step asks in plain English. Put up financial security equal to twice the vehicle’s value, so a true owner can be paid if one appears.
How to complete it. Buy a surety bond, or furnish a savings account, deposit, or certificate of deposit, for not less than twice the reasonable value of the vehicle. The bond or deposit must list the year, make, and VIN. Buy the bond from a licensed surety; Colorado title bonds start at $100 for a $100–$6,000 bond, then run about $10 per $1,000 for larger amounts.
A specific example. Daniel Ortiz, with an $8,000 appraisal, buys a $16,000 surety bond listing his Civic’s VIN. Because it falls in the larger tier, he pays roughly $160 for the three-year term.
A nuance or edge case. You can post a savings deposit or CD instead of a bond, but it must meet the same twice-value rule and name the vehicle. Most people choose the bond because it ties up less cash.
A common mistake and its consequence. Buying a bond for the vehicle’s value instead of twice the value is the classic error. An under-amount bond is rejected, and you pay again to reissue it correctly.
A misconception people hold. People think the bond is a fee they never see again. It is insurance; if no valid claim hits it in three years, it simply expires and your title clears.
Step 7: Complete the Bond Statement Guide (DR 2394)
What this step asks in plain English. Tell your story in writing, under oath, explaining why you need to bond and what you did to find the real owner.
How to complete it. Fill out the Bond Statement Guide & In Lieu of Bond Affidavit (DR 2394) and state: why bonding is required, the year, make, and VIN; what attempts you made to contact the owner of record; from whom and when you bought the vehicle and the amount paid; your efforts to have the seller establish title; whether there are liens; whether the vehicle is roadworthy; and, for a mobile home, whether it sits on a permanent foundation.
A specific example. Daniel Ortiz writes that he bought the Civic from Karen Webb on 03/15/2026 for $7,500, that Karen could not find the title, that he mailed her certified letters, and that the car is roadworthy.
A nuance or edge case. If the vehicle is over 25 years old, you may use the In Lieu of Bond Affidavit portion instead of a full bond, but your bill of sale must be less than 45 days old.
A common mistake and its consequence. Leaving blanks or vague answers like “I don’t know” is a common miss. The DR 2394 includes a perjury statement, and an incomplete one is rejected or, if false, exposes you to a perjury charge.
A misconception people hold. People think this is a casual cover letter. It is a sworn statement, so every line must be truthful and complete; treat it with the same care as a court filing.
Step 8: Salvage Vehicle Path (If Applicable)
What this step asks in plain English. If the car is or ever was salvage, you follow extra salvage steps before titling.
How to complete it. Get a Certified VIN Inspection (DR 2704). If it shows the vehicle is roadworthy, follow the Title Established by Salvage Title Checklist (DR 2415) and complete the Salvage Title Statement of Fact (DR 2424). If it is not roadworthy, apply for a salvage title with the Application for Salvage Title (DR 2410) or repair the vehicle, then complete the DR 2415, DR 2424, and a Rebuilt from Salvage Disclosure (DR 2710).
A specific example. Marcus Lee bought a flood-damaged truck with no title. His DR 2704 shows it is not roadworthy, so he files a DR 2410 for a salvage title and notes on the DR 2424 that he bought it without proper documents.
A nuance or edge case. If the record search shows the vehicle was “Previous Salvage” and the salvage reason is unknown, mark the “Other” box on the DR 2710 and state it was purchased without proper ownership documents through the bond process.
A common mistake and its consequence. Treating a salvage car like a clean one and skipping the DR 2424 or DR 2710 gets the title application bounced, and you may have to inspect the vehicle again.
A misconception people hold. People assume a bonded title and a salvage title are the same. They are separate flags; a vehicle can carry both, and each has its own forms and disclosures.
Step 9: Submit at the County Motor Vehicle Office
What this step asks in plain English. Bring the whole packet to the right county office, prove your identity, and pay to get your title.
How to complete it. Apply for the title or salvage title at the county motor vehicle office where you live (for vehicles) or where the manufactured home is located. Bring Secure and Verifiable ID listed on the DR 2841 and pay the $7.20 title fee under C.R.S. 42. For motor vehicles less than 10 model years old, disclose the odometer on a secure form, using the Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale (DR 2173).
A specific example. Daniel Ortiz brings his full folder, his Colorado driver license, and $7.20 to the Arapahoe County office, discloses 41,250 miles on the DR 2173, and walks out with a bonded title.
A nuance or edge case. You title in the county where you live, not where you bought the car. If you moved counties mid-process, file in your current county of residence.
A common mistake and its consequence. Showing up with an expired or non-listed ID is a frequent stumble. Colorado requires Secure and Verifiable ID, so the wrong ID means no title that day, even with a perfect packet.
A misconception people hold. People think they mail this in. The final submission is in person so staff can verify originals and your ID at the counter.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common fact patterns, each following one named owner through the DR 2922 packet from start to finish.
Example 1: Private Buyer With a Bill of Sale but No Title
Daniel Ortiz paid cash for a 2014 Honda Civic and got only a handwritten bill of sale.
| Packet Step | What Daniel Enters or Does |
|---|---|
| Step 1 – DR 2704 | Has VIN 2HGFG12814H123456 inspected, pays $50, keeps copy |
| Step 2 – DR 2489A | Orders record search, mails certified letter to Karen Webb |
| Step 3 – Lien | Gets Summit Credit Union lien release on letterhead |
| Step 5 – Value | Dealer appraises Civic at $8,000 with VIN and license number |
| Step 6 – Bond | Buys $16,000 surety bond listing the VIN |
| Step 7 – DR 2394 | States he bought from Karen Webb, 03/15/2026, $7,500 |
| Step 9 – Submit | Files in Arapahoe County, shows ID, pays $7.20 |
| Odometer | Discloses 41,250 miles on the DR 2173 |
Example 2: Vehicle Bought at a Mechanic’s or Tow Lien Sale
Marcus Lee bought a 2009 Ford F-150 left at a shop, with no title and possible salvage history.
| Packet Step | What Marcus Enters or Does |
|---|---|
| Step 1 – DR 2704 | Inspection shows truck is not roadworthy |
| Step 2 – DR 2489A | Orders Colorado record search, mails certified letter |
| Step 5 – Value | Uses dealer appraisal of $5,000 for the truck |
| Step 6 – Bond | Posts $10,000 surety bond with the VIN |
| Step 7 – DR 2394 | Notes purchase from shop, attempts to reach owner |
| Step 8 – Salvage | Files DR 2410 for salvage title, completes DR 2424 |
| Step 8 – Disclosure | Marks “Other” on DR 2710, reason for salvage unknown |
| Step 9 – Submit | Files in Weld County with ID and $7.20 fee |
Example 3: Manufactured Home With No Title
Linda Brooks owns a lot where a 1998 manufactured home was abandoned.
| Packet Step | What Linda Enters or Does |
|---|---|
| Step 1 – DR 2698 | Completes Verification of VIN (home is exempt from DR 2704) |
| Step 2 – DR 2489A | Orders record search, mails certified letter to owner |
| Step 4 – Court order | Provides civil judgment for possession naming the VIN |
| Step 4 – Property | Attaches real property deed for the lot |
| Step 4 – Taxes | Adds Certificate of Taxes Due from County Treasurer |
| Step 5 – Value | Uses County Assessor’s value naming year, make, VIN |
| Step 6 – Bond | Posts bond for twice the assessor’s value |
| Step 9 – Submit | Files where the home is located, pays $7.20 |
How to File the Completed Form
Bonding for title is handled at the county level, so your filing channel is your county motor vehicle office. The DR 2922 process is built around in-person submission, but here is how each touchpoint works.
- In person (required for final submission). Bring the full packet, Secure and Verifiable ID per the DR 2841, and the $7.20 title fee. Counties accept cash, check, and often card; call ahead to confirm. Processing at the counter is often same day, and your proof of filing is the title application receipt the clerk hands you.
- VIN inspection (in person, separate). The DR 2704 is done by a P.O.S.T. certified inspector your county refers you to. The fee is $50.00, cash or check only. Keep the signed original; it is valid for one year.
- Record search (by mail or in person). The DR 2489A request can be submitted to the state with the small $2.20 fee. Save the validated copy, since you need it for each VIN.
- Surety bond (online or through an agent). You can buy the bond online from a licensed surety, often within minutes, starting at $100. Keep the original bond document; the county needs it at submission.
Always keep photocopies of every form, every green card, and your bond before you hand over your packet. If anything is lost, your copies are your proof and can save weeks. Ask the clerk for a stamped or receipted copy of your application as your proof of filing.
What Happens After You File
Once the county accepts your packet and bond, the office issues a Colorado title carrying a bonded brand. The brand tells the world the title was created through the surety process rather than a normal transfer. You can register, insure, drive, and even sell the vehicle with this title, though you must disclose the bonded brand to any buyer.
The bond stays active for three years. During that window, any person with valid proof of ownership, like a true prior owner or a real lienholder, can file a claim against your bond instead of seizing the vehicle. The surety pays a valid claim, then seeks repayment from you, which is why honesty on the DR 2394 matters so much. This three-year clock is the price of getting a title without the original paperwork.
If no valid claim is made during those three years, the bonded brand clears on its own. Many owners never have to do anything; the title simply becomes a standard Colorado title once the period ends. Keep your bond document and title receipt the whole time, because a clean record makes any future sale or refinance smooth.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Bonded title packets are rejected for small, avoidable errors. Watch for these:
- Letting the DR 2704 expire. An inspection over one year old is void, forcing a new $50 inspection.
- Posting a bond for the wrong amount. A bond that is not twice the value is rejected and must be reissued.
- Sending owner letters by regular mail. Without a certified-mail green card, the county treats contact as never attempted.
- Submitting a lien release with no letterhead. Plain notes or emails are not accepted and stall the packet.
- Guessing the vehicle’s value. A value from an unapproved source means a wrong bond and a denied title.
- Leaving the DR 2394 blank in spots. An incomplete sworn statement is rejected and can expose you to perjury.
- Mismatching the VIN across forms. One wrong digit on the bond or appraisal voids that document.
- Filing in the wrong county. Vehicles title where you live; mobile homes where the home sits.
- Bringing non-compliant ID. ID not on the DR 2841 list means no title that day.
- Ignoring the salvage steps. A salvage car titled as clean gets bounced and may need a new inspection.
- Forgetting odometer disclosure. Vehicles under 10 model years old need the DR 2173 odometer disclosure or the title is held.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Do gather every document before you start, because expired items force costly restarts.
- Do keep photocopies of everything, since lost originals can stall you for weeks.
- Do use certified or registered mail so you have proof of every owner and lien contact.
- Do confirm your bond is twice the appraised value, the single rule most people miss.
- Do call your county office first to learn its hours, fees, and appointment rules.
- Do tell the truth on the DR 2394, because it is sworn under penalty of perjury.
Don’t:
- Don’t let the VIN inspection age past one year, or you pay and inspect again.
- Don’t guess the vehicle’s value, since an unapproved figure is rejected.
- Don’t skip Step 4 reading if you have a car; it applies only to manufactured homes.
- Don’t mail your final packet; the last step is in person at the county.
- Don’t accept a lien release without letterhead, because it will not count.
- Don’t hide a salvage history, as it surfaces in the record search anyway.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
| Filing Pro Se (On Your Own) | Filing With Professional Help |
|---|---|
| Cheaper, since you avoid service fees on top of the $100 bond | Costs more, as title services charge for handling the packet |
| You control timing and can move at your own pace | A pro can speed steps by knowing county quirks |
| You learn the process for any future vehicles | You save hours of mailing, calling, and waiting |
| No risk of a middleman mishandling your originals | Help reduces the chance of a rejected packet |
| Direct contact with the county clerk clears questions fast | Experts spot salvage or lien traps before you file |
On your own, the upside is cost and control, while the risk is missing a clock or a formatting rule that triggers a redo. With help, the upside is fewer rejections and saved time, while the downside is added cost and trusting someone with your documents. Most straightforward car cases, like a clean bill of sale with no liens, are very doable solo. Cases with active liens, salvage history, or abandoned mobile homes are where paid help often pays for itself.
FAQs
Is the DR 2922 itself a form I fill in with my information?
No. The DR 2922 is a three-page checklist of nine steps. Your actual data goes on companion forms like the DR 2394, DR 2489A, and DR 2704 it points you to.
Do I need a bond for exactly the vehicle’s value?
No. Colorado requires the bond to equal twice the reasonable value of the vehicle, not just its value. An under-amount bond is rejected at the counter.
Can I file the bonded title packet online?
No. The final submission is in person at your county motor vehicle office, since staff must verify your originals, your ID, and your bond document.
Do I write the VIN the same on every form in the packet?
Yes. The exact same year, make, and VIN must appear on the DR 2704, the appraisal, the bond, and the DR 2394, or the mismatched document is voided.
Does Step 4 apply to my car?
No. Step 4 covers abandoned manufactured homes only. If you are titling a motor vehicle, you skip Step 4 entirely.
Do I need a Certified VIN Inspection for a manufactured home?
No. Manufactured homes are exempt from the DR 2704. You complete a Verification of VIN (DR 2698) instead.
Can I name a low value to shrink my bond cost?
No. The value must come from an approved source like a licensed Colorado dealer or the County Assessor. A guessed or lowball value is rejected.
Does the previous owner have to respond to my letter?
No. You only need to prove you attempted contact by certified or registered mail. A returned receipt or undeliverable result satisfies the step.
Is a bonded title permanent on my vehicle?
No. The bonded brand stays for three years. If no valid ownership claim is filed in that time, the title clears to a standard Colorado title.
Do I file in the county where I bought the car?
No. You title a motor vehicle in the county where you live. A manufactured home is titled in the county where the home is located.
Can I use the In Lieu of Bond Affidavit for any vehicle?
No. The In Lieu of Bond Affidavit option is for vehicles over 25 years old, and the bill of sale must be less than 45 days old.
Is a lien release required if the lienholder is a private individual?
No. A lien release is not required when the lienholder is an individual. It is required when the lienholder is a business, on its letterhead.
Do I need odometer disclosure on an older car?
No. Only motor vehicles less than 10 model years old need odometer disclosure, made on the DR 2173 Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale.
Can I sell a car with a bonded title in Colorado?
Yes. You can sell or transfer it, but you must disclose the bonded brand to the buyer, and the bond protection follows the vehicle for the three-year term.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Arizona Bonded Title Application (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the North Carolina Bonded Title Application (MVR-92D) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Pennsylvania Bonded Title Application (MV-353) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out a Colorado DMV Abandoned Vehicle Title (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Colorado DMV Rebuilt Vehicle Statement (DR 2424 & DR 2710) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Colorado DMV Salvage Title Application (Forms DR 2424 & DR 2710) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs