A Delaware DMV Vehicle Bill of Sale is a one-page record that proves a car, truck, motorcycle, or trailer changed hands, listing the vehicle, the price, the buyer, and the seller. The Delaware Division of Motor Vehicles uses it as backup proof of a sale, while the signed title and the Application for Title (Form MV-212) do the legal work of moving ownership.
Most private sellers and buyers in Delaware reach for this form when they want a clean paper trail, and dealer sales must include one by law. The form looks simple, but a wrong VIN, a rounded odometer reading, or a missing signature can stall your title transfer at the counter and leave the seller on the hook for the car. Delaware also gives you only 30 days from the sale date to title the vehicle before a $35 late penalty kicks in, so getting this paper right the first time matters.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 🚗 What the Delaware Bill of Sale does and how it differs from the title and Form MV-212
- 📋 The exact documents and numbers to gather before you write a single word
- ✍️ A line-by-line walkthrough of every box on the form, with sample entries
- 👨👩👧 Three full filled-out examples, including a cash sale, a gift, and an as-is used car
- 💸 The fees, the 4.25% document fee, and the field-level mistakes that cost people the most
What the Delaware Bill of Sale Is and Who Must File It
A Delaware Vehicle Bill of Sale is a written statement, signed by the seller, that records the transfer of a motor vehicle from one party to another. It captures the vehicle’s make, model, year, and VIN, plus the sale price (or a note that the vehicle is a gift), the buyer’s and seller’s names, and both signatures. The seller signs under penalty of perjury, which means lying on the form is a crime, not just a paperwork slip.
The form supports the legal transfer, but it does not replace the title. In Delaware, ownership moves when the seller completes the assignment section on the back of the Certificate of Title and the buyer files Form MV-212 with the DMV. The bill of sale backs up the price and the date if a question ever comes up.
Three groups use this form most. Private sellers use it to show they no longer own the car, which protects them from tickets and tolls run up by the new owner. Buyers use it to prove what they paid, which sets the base for the 4.25% motor vehicle document fee that Delaware charges in place of a sales tax. Dealers must hand over a dealer’s bill of sale by law, since Delaware requires it for every dealer purchase.
Family members who gift a car also use the form. Marking the vehicle as a gift on the bill of sale, paired with a qualifying relationship like parent-to-child or spouse-to-spouse, can support an exemption from the document fee. Without that paper trail, the DMV may tax the gift at NADA book value, which can cost hundreds of dollars.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything before you sit down to write, because one missing number sends you back to the seller or back to the glovebox. A bill of sale with blanks or guesses can be rejected at the counter, and a rejected form means a second trip and possible late fees. Here is your pre-filing checklist.
- The vehicle title. You need the exact VIN, year, make, and model as printed on the title; a mismatch between the title and the bill of sale flags the file for review.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Copy all 17 characters from the title or the dashboard plate, because the DMV verifies the VIN in person and a single wrong digit voids the match.
- The current odometer reading. Read the whole-number mileage with no tenths, since the Federal Odometer Act treats a false reading as fraud.
- The agreed sale price. Write the actual dollar amount paid, because the DMV bases the 4.25% document fee on this price or the NADA value, whichever is higher.
- Both parties’ full legal names. Use names as they appear on the title and on each person’s ID, since nicknames create a record mismatch.
- Both parties’ addresses. Current street addresses tie each person to the sale and, for out-of-state buyers, prove the car is leaving Delaware.
- The sale date. The clock for the 30-day titling window starts here, so the date must be accurate.
- A government-issued ID for each party. A Delaware driver’s license or ID confirms identity, and the buyer needs one to title the car.
- Proof of insurance (buyer). Delaware requires the buyer to show liability insurance when applying for the title, so line this up before the DMV visit.
If any item is missing, stop and get it. A blank price box, for example, leaves the DMV to set the fee using book value, which often runs higher than what you actually paid.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
Delaware does not lock you into one official bill of sale template, which surprises many first-time sellers. The DMV’s main titling paperwork lives on the Forms and Manuals page, where you can pull the Application for Title (MV-212) and the Report of Sale form that work alongside the bill of sale. A bill of sale that captures the required fields is accepted whether it is a state template or a clean private form.
You have three easy ways to get a usable form. You can download a free, fillable Delaware template such as the one from Legal Templates, print a generic motor-vehicle bill of sale, or write your own as long as it includes the vehicle details, price, names, date, and signatures. Each path leads to the same place: a signed record the DMV will accept.
Fill the form out by hand in dark ink or type it before printing. Type when you can, because clear, legible entries prevent the “complete and legible information” problems the Report of Sale warns can still hold a seller liable. Print two copies so the buyer and the seller each keep one.
One nuance trips up gift givers and family transfers. Even when no money changes hands, you still need a bill of sale that marks the vehicle as a gift and shows a sale price of $0.00, because the DMV needs that note to apply a document-fee exemption. Skipping the form on a gift can cost the recipient the 4.25% fee on the car’s book value.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Delaware Bill of Sale Line by Line
The bill of sale breaks into clear groups: vehicle description, sale terms, seller information, buyer information, and signatures. Work top to bottom and copy each value straight from the title and IDs. Below is every field, what it asks, how to answer it, and what goes wrong when filers rush.
1. Vehicle Year
This field asks for the model year of the vehicle, not the year you are selling it. Enter the four-digit year exactly as it appears on the title, such as 2018. For example, David Reyes writes 2016 for his Honda Civic because that is the year printed on his Delaware title.
The common edge case is a vehicle sold near a year boundary, like a car bought new in late 2017 but built as a 2018 model. Always use the title’s model year, not the purchase year, since the DMV matches this to its records. A wrong year here flags a mismatch that can hold the transfer at the counter until the seller confirms the correct value.
A misconception is that the year means the year of sale. It does not; it is the manufacturer’s model year, and using the calendar year of the sale will not match the title.
2. Make
This field asks for the manufacturer of the vehicle. Write the brand name as it appears on the title, such as Toyota, Ford, or Harley-Davidson. For example, Maria Lopez enters Toyota for her Corolla.
The edge case is a brand that changed names or uses a sub-brand, like Ram trucks once badged as Dodge. Match the title’s spelling exactly rather than the badge on the tailgate. A make that does not match the title can stall the VIN verification and force a correction.
People often think the trim line, like Limited or LX, belongs here. It does not; the make is only the manufacturer, and the trim is not part of this field.
3. Model
This field asks for the specific model name of the vehicle. Enter the model as printed on the title, such as Civic, F-150, or Corolla. For example, David Reyes writes Civic for his Honda.
The edge case is a model with a number-letter mix, like CX-5 or 3 Series. Copy it character for character from the title so the record lines up. A vague or wrong model can trigger a review when the DMV cross-checks the VIN.
A misconception is that the model and the trim are the same thing. They are not; write only the base model name unless the title itself includes more detail.
4. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the 17-character code that uniquely identifies the vehicle. Copy every letter and number from the title or the dashboard plate, with no spaces, such as 1HGCM82633A004352. For example, Maria Lopez writes her full VIN 2T1BURHE0JC014589 exactly as shown on her title.
The edge case is older vehicles built before 1981, which may have shorter VINs; enter the full number exactly as it appears, however long it is. A single wrong character is the most common reason a transfer fails, because the DMV verifies the VIN in person and a mismatch means no title that day.
Many people think the letters O and I appear in VINs. They do not; modern VINs use zero and the number one to avoid confusion, so read the plate carefully.
5. Odometer Reading
This field asks for the vehicle’s current mileage at the time of sale. Enter the whole number with no tenths, exactly as the Report of Sale form instructs, such as 84,512. For example, David Reyes records 84,512 miles, dropping the trailing decimal his dashboard shows.
The edge case is a broken or rolled-over odometer; if the reading is not the true mileage, you must note it as not actual or exceeds mechanical limits rather than guess. Reporting a false reading violates the Federal Odometer Act and can be charged as fraud, with fines or worse.
A misconception is that you should round mileage up or down to a neat number. You should not; write the exact reading as displayed, minus the tenths.
6. Sale Price
This field asks for the dollar amount the buyer paid for the vehicle. Write the full agreed price in numbers, such as $9,500.00, or enter $0.00 and check the gift box if no money changed hands. For example, Maria Lopez writes $9,500.00 as the price she paid for her Corolla.
The edge case is a gift between family members; mark the vehicle as a gift and enter $0.00 so the recipient can claim a document-fee exemption for a qualifying relationship. Lowballing the price to dodge the fee backfires, because Delaware charges the 4.25% document fee on your price or the NADA book value, whichever is higher.
People often believe a low written price means a low fee. It does not; the DMV uses book value when the stated price looks below market, so honesty here usually costs nothing extra.
7. Gift Indicator
This field, when present, asks whether the vehicle is a gift rather than a sale. Check the gift box and pair it with a $0.00 price when you are giving the car away. For example, Janet Cole checks the gift box when she hands her paid-off sedan to her daughter.
The edge case is a gift between people who are not close relatives; the document-fee exemption applies to relationships like parent-to-child and spouse-to-spouse, so a gift to a friend may still be taxed. Failing to mark the gift box on a true gift can cause the DMV to assess the 4.25% fee on the full book value.
A misconception is that calling any sale a gift avoids the fee. It does not; the DMV checks the relationship, and a false gift claim is a misrepresentation on a sworn form.
8. Seller Name
This field asks for the full legal name of the person selling the vehicle. Enter the name exactly as it appears on the title and the seller’s ID, such as David A. Reyes. For example, David A. Reyes writes his name to match his Delaware driver’s license.
The edge case is co-owners; if the title lists two names joined by and, both sellers must be named and both must sign. A seller name that does not match the title creates a chain-of-ownership gap that can block the buyer’s title application.
People sometimes think a nickname or a business shorthand is fine here. It is not; use the full legal name on the title so the records line up.
9. Seller Address
This field asks for the seller’s current street address. Write the full address, including city, state, and ZIP, such as 112 Maple Street, Newark, DE 19711. For example, David A. Reyes enters his Newark address as printed on his license.
The edge case is a recent move; use your current address, not the one on an outdated title, and update the DMV separately if needed. A wrong or missing address weakens the seller’s proof that the car left their hands, which matters if the buyer never titles it.
A misconception is that a P.O. Box alone is enough. It often is not for a vehicle record; provide a physical street address when the form asks for one.
10. Buyer Name
This field asks for the full legal name of the person buying the vehicle. Enter the buyer’s name exactly as it appears on their ID, such as Maria Lopez. For example, Maria Lopez writes her name to match her Delaware ID so her MV-212 lines up.
The edge case is two buyers who want joint ownership; list both names and decide whether the title should read and or or, since that controls who must sign for a future sale. A buyer name that does not match the title application can delay the new title.
People often assume the buyer’s name can be added later. It should not be; the buyer should be named at signing so the bill of sale matches the title transfer.
11. Buyer Address
This field asks for the buyer’s current street address. Write the full address with city, state, and ZIP, such as 45 Oak Lane, Dover, DE 19901. For example, Maria Lopez enters her Dover address.
The edge case is an out-of-state buyer; the Report of Sale notes that for a sold-out-of-state transfer, the buyer’s address must be outside Delaware. A wrong address can misroute the record or wrongly suggest the car stayed in Delaware.
A misconception is that the buyer’s address does not matter on the seller’s copy. It does; it ties the new owner to the sale if a dispute ever arises.
12. Sale Date
This field asks for the date ownership changed hands. Write it in month/day/year format, such as 05/18/2026. For example, Maria Lopez and David A. Reyes both enter 05/18/2026 as the day she paid and drove off.
The edge case is a deposit-then-pickup sale; use the date the buyer takes the car and pays in full, not the deposit date. A wrong date can shorten or blow the 30-day titling window and trigger the $35 late penalty.
People think the sale date is the day they sign the title at the DMV. It is not; it is the day the deal actually closed between the parties.
13. Seller Signature
This field is the seller’s sworn signature confirming the sale. Sign in ink exactly as your name is written above, and add the date you signed. For example, David A. Reyes signs and dates the form the same day as the sale.
The edge case is co-owned vehicles; every owner on the title must sign, or the transfer is incomplete. A missing seller signature is a top reason a transfer is rejected, since an unsigned bill of sale proves nothing.
A misconception is that Delaware requires this signature to be notarized. It does not; Delaware titles do not require notarization, though notarizing can add a layer of protection.
14. Buyer Signature
This field is the buyer’s signature accepting the vehicle and the stated terms. Sign in ink and date it the day of the sale. For example, Maria Lopez signs and dates the form to confirm she received the car at the listed price.
The edge case is a buyer who cannot appear in person; a properly authorized agent may sign, but the simplest path is for the buyer to sign at the handoff. A missing buyer signature leaves the price and terms unconfirmed, which can cause questions at titling.
People believe only the seller needs to sign. They are wrong; a strong bill of sale carries both signatures so each party is bound to the deal.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Seeing the form filled out start to finish makes the fields click. Below are three of the most common Delaware situations, each followed by one named person through the key boxes.
Scenario 1: A standard private cash sale. Maria Lopez buys a used 2018 Toyota Corolla from David Reyes for $9,500 in a straightforward person-to-person deal.
| Form Section | What Maria and David Enter |
|---|---|
| Vehicle Year | 2018 |
| Make | Toyota |
| Model | Corolla |
| VIN | 2T1BURHE0JC014589 |
| Odometer Reading | 84,512 |
| Sale Price | $9,500.00 |
| Seller Name and Address | David A. Reyes, 112 Maple Street, Newark, DE 19711 |
| Buyer Name and Address | Maria Lopez, 45 Oak Lane, Dover, DE 19901 |
| Sale Date | 05/18/2026 |
| Signatures | Both sign in ink and date 05/18/2026 |
Scenario 2: A vehicle gifted from parent to child. Janet Cole gives her paid-off 2015 Honda CR-V to her daughter, Emily Cole, with no money changing hands.
| Form Section | What Janet and Emily Enter |
|---|---|
| Vehicle Year | 2015 |
| Make | Honda |
| Model | CR-V |
| VIN | 5J6RM4H75FL012345 |
| Odometer Reading | 96,340 |
| Sale Price | $0.00 — Gift (gift box checked) |
| Seller Name and Address | Janet R. Cole, 8 Birch Court, Wilmington, DE 19805 |
| Buyer Name and Address | Emily Cole, 8 Birch Court, Wilmington, DE 19805 |
| Sale Date | 04/02/2026 |
| Signatures | Both sign in ink and date 04/02/2026 |
Scenario 3: An older, high-mileage car sold as-is. Marcus Bell sells his 2009 Ford F-150 with 198,000 miles to Tyrell Banks for $3,200, with no warranty.
| Form Section | What Marcus and Tyrell Enter |
|---|---|
| Vehicle Year | 2009 |
| Make | Ford |
| Model | F-150 |
| VIN | 1FTRW12W19FA08827 |
| Odometer Reading | 198,000 |
| Sale Price | $3,200.00 |
| As-Is Note | Sold as-is, no warranty |
| Seller Name and Address | Marcus Bell, 27 Pine Avenue, Smyrna, DE 19977 |
| Buyer Name and Address | Tyrell Banks, 19 Cedar Road, Milford, DE 19963 |
| Sale Date | 06/01/2026 |
| Signatures | Both sign in ink and date 06/01/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
The bill of sale itself is not filed alone; the buyer brings it to the DMV with the signed title and a completed Form MV-212 to finish the transfer. The seller should also submit a Report of Sale to flag the record and shed liability. Delaware leans toward in-person titling, and the DMV recommends all parties appear together to complete the transfer.
In person. Visit any Delaware DMV location with the signed title, the bill of sale, Form MV-212, your Delaware license or ID, and proof of insurance. The buyer pays the $35 title transfer fee (or $55 if a lien is recorded), the 4.25% document fee on the price or NADA value, and any registration fee. Accepted payment includes cash, check, and major cards, and you walk out with proof your transfer is in process.
By mail. The seller can mail or email the Report of Sale to flag the record, sending it to P.O. Box 698, Dover, DE 19903 or to DMV.CorrespondenceServices@delaware.gov, as the Report of Sale directs. There is no fee to file the Report of Sale, and your proof is the dated copy or the sent email you keep.
Keep proof of every step. Hold onto your stamped MV-212 receipt, your copy of the bill of sale, and your Report of Sale confirmation, because these documents prove the date and the price if the DMV, a toll authority, or law enforcement ever asks.
What Happens After You File
Once the buyer files the title application and pays the fees, the DMV verifies the VIN and the paperwork, then issues a new Certificate of Title in the buyer’s name. The state updates its ownership records, and the buyer can register the vehicle and get plates, often during the same visit. Processing at the counter is usually same-day for the registration, with the printed title mailed afterward.
For the seller, filing the Report of Sale flags the vehicle record as transferred. That flag does not change ownership by itself, and it will not stop the DMV or law enforcement from contacting the seller, but it documents that the seller reported the sale on a specific date. This paper trail is the seller’s shield against tickets and tolls the new owner runs up.
If the buyer misses the 30-day window, the DMV applies a late penalty and the transfer drags on. The seller can stay exposed during that gap, which is why the Report of Sale matters so much. A clean, complete bill of sale speeds the whole process and reduces the back-and-forth that causes delays.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Small slips on this form cause big headaches, and each one has a direct cost. Watch for these errors before you sign.
- Wrong VIN. A single off character voids the VIN match, and the DMV will not issue the title until it is corrected.
- Odometer with tenths or rounding. A misreported mileage can be treated as fraud under the Federal Odometer Act, leading to fines.
- Leaving the price blank. The DMV then sets the 4.25% fee using NADA book value, which often costs the buyer more.
- Faking a low price. The DMV uses book value when the price looks too low, so the dodge fails and looks like fraud.
- Not marking a true gift. The recipient loses the document-fee exemption and pays 4.25% on book value.
- Missing a signature. An unsigned form proves nothing and gets the transfer rejected at the counter.
- Co-owner does not sign. If the title joins two names with and, both must sign or the transfer is incomplete.
- Name does not match the title. A nickname or shorthand creates a chain-of-ownership gap that blocks titling.
- Wrong sale date. An inaccurate date can shorten the 30-day window and trigger the $35 late penalty.
- Illegible handwriting. The Report of Sale warns that incomplete or unreadable forms still leave the seller liable.
- Seller skips the Report of Sale. Without it, the seller stays exposed to the new owner’s tickets and tolls.
Do’s and Don’ts
A few habits keep your Delaware transfer smooth and protect both sides of the deal.
- Do copy the VIN, year, make, and model straight from the title, because the DMV matches every value to its records.
- Do write the exact odometer reading with no tenths, since the Federal Odometer Act treats false mileage as fraud.
- Do make two copies so the buyer and seller each keep a signed record of the price and date.
- Do file the Report of Sale as the seller, because it flags the record and limits your liability.
- Do transfer the title within 30 days to avoid the $35 late penalty.
- Do show proof of insurance as the buyer, since Delaware requires it to title the car.
- Don’t round or “clean up” the sale price, because the DMV cross-checks it against NADA book value.
- Don’t leave any field blank, since gaps invite rejection and force a second trip.
- Don’t call a real sale a gift, because the DMV verifies the relationship and treats false claims as misrepresentation.
- Don’t sign for a co-owner who is not present, since every titled owner must sign in their own hand.
- Don’t rely on a P.O. Box where a street address is required, because vehicle records need a physical address.
- Don’t skip the bill of sale on a dealer purchase, since Delaware requires a dealer’s bill of sale by law.
Pros and Cons of Handling the Transfer Yourself
Most Delaware private sales are simple enough to do without help, but knowing the trade-offs helps you decide.
- Pro: It is cheaper. Doing it yourself means you only pay DMV fees, with no third-party service charge.
- Pro: You control the paperwork. You confirm every field matches the title, which cuts the risk of a counter rejection.
- Pro: It is fast for clean sales. A standard cash sale between two Delaware residents moves quickly in person.
- Pro: No notary needed. Delaware does not require notarization, so a routine sale needs no extra appointment.
- Pro: You learn the process. Handling one transfer makes the next sale or purchase easier.
- Con: Mistakes fall on you. A wrong VIN or missing signature is yours to fix, often with a second DMV trip.
- Con: Tricky cases get complex. Inherited, salvage, or out-of-state vehicles add inspections and documents that help can simplify.
- Con: Liability risk if you skip steps. Forgetting the Report of Sale can leave a seller exposed to the buyer’s violations.
- Con: Fee surprises. Misjudging the 4.25% document fee or book value can mean an unexpected cost at the counter.
- Con: Time at the DMV. In-person titling can mean waiting, which a service or appointment can ease.
Bill of Sale vs. Title Assignment
These two documents work together but do different jobs, and confusing them is common.
| Bill of Sale | Title Assignment |
|---|---|
| Records the price, date, and parties as backup proof | Legally transfers ownership of the vehicle |
| Not always a state template; a clean private form works | Printed on the back of the official Certificate of Title |
| Required for dealer sales; smart for every private sale | Required for every transfer with no exceptions |
| Supports the 4.25% document-fee calculation | Includes the federal odometer disclosure |
| Both parties sign, no notary needed in Delaware | Seller signs to assign; buyer files with Form MV-212 |
FAQs
Does Delaware require a bill of sale to be notarized?
No. Delaware titles do not require notarization, and neither does the bill of sale, though notarizing it can add a layer of authenticity and protection for both parties.
Is a bill of sale required for every vehicle sale in Delaware?
No. It is legally required for dealer purchases, but for private sales it is strongly recommended as proof of price and date rather than strictly mandated.
Do I need to write the odometer reading with the tenths?
No. Enter the whole-number mileage with no tenths, exactly as the Report of Sale instructs, because the DMV records mileage as a whole number.
Do I write a nickname or my full legal name in the seller field?
No. Use your full legal name as it appears on the title and your ID, since a nickname creates a record mismatch that can block the transfer.
Should I check the gift box if I sold the car cheap to a friend?
No. Only check the gift box for a true gift, usually between qualifying relatives, because a false gift claim is a misrepresentation on a sworn form.
Do both co-owners need to sign the bill of sale?
Yes. If the title lists two owners joined by and, every owner must sign, or the DMV treats the transfer as incomplete.
Will a low written price lower my Delaware document fee?
No. The DMV charges the 4.25% document fee on your price or the NADA book value, whichever is higher, so understating the price does not help.
Can I use a generic bill of sale instead of a state form?
Yes. Delaware accepts a private bill of sale that includes the vehicle details, price, names, date, and signatures, since there is no single mandatory template.
Do I have to file the bill of sale by itself at the DMV?
No. The buyer brings it with the signed title and Form MV-212, while the seller separately files the Report of Sale to flag the record.
Does the buyer’s address have to be inside Delaware?
No. For a sold-out-of-state transfer, the Report of Sale requires the buyer’s address to be outside Delaware.
Is there a deadline to transfer the title after the sale?
Yes. Delaware gives you 30 days from the sale date to title the vehicle before a $35 late penalty applies.
Do I need proof of insurance to complete the transfer?
Yes. The DMV requires the buyer to show liability insurance, plus a Delaware license or two proofs of residency, when applying for the title.
Can I correct a mistake on the form after signing?
Yes. You can correct errors, but both parties should initial the change, since unresolved errors like a wrong odometer reading can invalidate the transfer.
Does a gift between spouses avoid the document fee?
Yes. A gift between qualifying relatives like spouses or parent-to-child may qualify for a document-fee exemption when the gift box is marked and the relationship meets state criteria.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Connecticut DMV Bill of Sale (H-31) (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Delaware DMV Application for Certificate of Title (Form MV212) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Delaware DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Delaware DMV Vehicle Registration Application (Form MV-212) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Montana MVD Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs