The Hawaii County Bill of Sale is the notarized form a private seller signs to transfer ownership of a vehicle to a buyer in the County of Hawai’i, and both parties need it to complete the title transfer at the Vehicle Registration & Licensing Division. It records the price, the vehicle details, the odometer reading, and a sworn statement that the seller owns the vehicle free of hidden liens. The current version is the County’s Bill of Sale fillable PDF, marked Bill of Sale 2-2023, Created 03/17/09, Revised 2/17/2023, Updated 5/30/2023.
Getting this form wrong slows your transfer, and the County charges a late transfer fee of $50.00 when papers come in after 30 days. The Big Island processes thousands of private vehicle sales each year, and missing fields or a skipped notary block are the top reasons a transfer gets bounced back at the counter.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📝 How to fill in every line of the County of Hawai’i Bill of Sale, box by box.
- 🚗 What documents you must gather before you start so nothing stalls your transfer.
- 🖊️ Why the notary block must be signed in front of a notary, not at home.
- ⏱️ How the 30-day deadline, the 10-day Notice of Transfer rule, and late penalties work.
- 💡 Three real filled-out examples plus the mistakes that cost buyers and sellers the most.
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Hawaii County Bill of Sale is a legal record that a vehicle changed hands from one private party to another. It names the seller, names the buyer, describes the vehicle, states the dollar amount paid, and carries a sworn odometer disclosure. The seller signs it, and a notary public confirms the seller’s identity and witnesses the signature, which is what makes this form different from a plain printable receipt.
Any private seller transferring a vehicle that is registered in Hawai’i County should complete this form. The buyer needs it to apply for a new title and registration, and the seller needs it as proof of the sale price and the date of transfer. The County’s Vehicle Registration & Licensing Division, part of the Department of Finance, is the agency that receives the completed paperwork and updates the official record.
The law behind this form is Section 286-52, Hawaii Revised Statutes, which sets the rules for how title and ownership transfer when a vehicle is sold. The same chapter requires the seller to give the DMV a separate Notice of Transfer within 10 days, a step recently clarified by Act 109. Ignoring §286-52 can leave the seller’s name on the record, which means tickets, accidents, or fees tied to the vehicle can still come back to the old owner. Marcus, who sold his pickup in Hilo, learned that filing the Notice of Transfer is what released him from liability after the buyer racked up parking tickets. A common misconception is that the Bill of Sale alone removes the seller’s name from the record; it does not, because the buyer must still apply for transfer and the seller must still file the separate notice.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form, because a missing item is the most common reason a transfer stalls at the counter. Filling the form is fast once your papers are in order, but a single missing signature line or number can send you home.
- Certificate of Title, properly endorsed (signed over) by the seller, because the County cannot transfer ownership without it.
- Current Certificate of Registration, since the office matches it against the title and the plate number.
- Current safety inspection certificate, which Hawai’i County requires within 30 days to complete the transfer.
- The vehicle’s exact details: license plate number, make, year, body type, and the full Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), because any mismatch with the title triggers a hold.
- The odometer reading on the day of sale, with no tenths, because the form swears to this figure under federal odometer rules.
- The agreed sale price in dollars, because the County uses it and it affects the buyer’s records.
- The buyer’s full legal name and complete address, including city, state, and ZIP, so the new title is issued correctly.
- The seller’s valid photo ID to show the notary, because the notary must confirm the signer’s identity before stamping.
- Lienholder information, if any loan is still attached, because an unpaid lien blocks a clean transfer.
- A notary public, since the seller’s signature must be sworn in front of one, not signed in advance.
If you skip the safety inspection, the office will not finish the transfer. If you forget the endorsed title, you have nothing to transfer at all. Aisha, buying her first car in Kona, brought the registration but forgot the title endorsement and had to track down the seller a second time, which cost her a week.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can download the official form straight from the County’s records portal as the Bill of Sale fillable PDF. The fillable version lets you type entries on a computer, which is cleaner and easier to read than handwriting and reduces rejected forms from sloppy print. You can also pick up a paper copy at any County Vehicle Registration & Licensing office.
The County maintains offices on both sides of the island. In East Hawai’i, the main vehicle registration office sits at 120 Pauahi St Suite 100, Hilo, HI 96720, phone (808) 961-2223. In West Hawai’i, you can visit the West Hawai’i Civic Center at 74-5044 Ane Keohokalole Hwy, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740, phone (808) 323-4800.
Confirm the revision date printed at the bottom of the page before you fill anything in. The current form reads Bill of Sale 2-2023 with Revised 2/17/2023 and Updated 5/30/2023 near the footer. Using an old version risks a rejected filing because field labels and the notary block can change between revisions. A frequent misconception is that a generic online “Hawaii bill of sale” works everywhere; the County of Hawai’i has its own notarized form, and the office prefers it for vehicles registered on the Big Island.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Hawaii County Bill of Sale Line by Line
Work through the form in the order the fields appear, from the price line at the top to the notary certification at the bottom. Type or print clearly, use the same spelling that appears on the title, and do not sign until you are in front of a notary. Each field below explains what it asks, how to answer it, an example, an edge case, the common mistake, and the misconception people carry into that box.
1. Consideration (Sale Price) — “In consideration of ___ Dollars ($___)”
This field asks how much the buyer paid the seller for the vehicle. Write the amount in words on the line and the same amount in numbers inside the dollar box, matching exactly, and use whole dollars for a clean record. For example, Five thousand five hundred Dollars ($5,500) shows a clear, matching pair.
If the vehicle is a gift or sold for a token amount, you can still list the real figure, such as One Dollar ($1) and other valuable consideration, since the form already includes the phrase “and other valuable consideration.” A common mistake is leaving the word amount blank and filling only the number, which makes the price ambiguous and can prompt questions at the counter. Many people think the price here sets the tax; the buyer’s costs are driven mainly by registration fees, but an honest figure still matters because the form is sworn.
2. Buyer Name — “does hereby sell, transfer and deliver unto ___ (buyer)”
This field asks who is receiving the vehicle. Enter the buyer’s full legal name exactly as it should appear on the new title, spelled the way it reads on their ID. For example, Aisha N. Kalani is better than Aisha K. because the County issues the title to the name written here.
If two people are buying together, list both full names so both appear as owners. A common mistake is using a nickname or initials, which can force the buyer to correct the title later and pay for a fix. People often assume the buyer signs only at the bottom; the buyer’s name belongs here at the top, and the buyer also signs in the buyer signature block lower on the form.
3. License Plate Number
This field asks for the current Hawai’i plate number on the vehicle. Copy it exactly from the registration, including letters and numbers in the right order. For example, HMC 482 should be written just as it shows on the plate and registration.
If the plate is damaged or missing, note the number from the registration and tell the office, because the record still ties to that plate. A common mistake is transposing characters, which makes the form fail to match the registration and stalls the transfer. Some sellers think plates always go with the car; in Hawai’i the plate generally stays with the vehicle, so the number you write here should be the one on the car at sale.
4. Make and Year
This field asks for the vehicle’s manufacturer and model year. Enter the make and the four-digit year as they appear on the title, such as Toyota 2015. Keep it simple and match the title’s wording.
If the title lists a make differently than you expect, follow the title, because the office cross-checks against it. A common mistake is writing the model (like Tacoma) instead of the make (Toyota), which can confuse the record. People sometimes think the year is the year they bought it; it is the manufacturer’s model year shown on the title.
5. Body Type
This field asks what kind of body the vehicle has. Use the short body description from the title, such as 4DSD for a four-door sedan or PK for a pickup. Match the abbreviation style the title and registration use.
If you are unsure of the code, copy it directly from the registration document. A common mistake is inventing a description that does not match the title, which raises a question at the counter. Many filers think the body type is cosmetic detail; it is part of how the County identifies the exact vehicle on record.
6. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the vehicle’s unique 17-character VIN. Copy it carefully from the title, checking each character, because the VIN is the master key the County uses to confirm the vehicle. For example, 1FTEW1EP7JFA12345 must match the title digit for digit.
If the VIN on the title is hard to read, verify it against the VIN plate on the dashboard or door jamb before writing it. A common mistake is confusing the number zero with the letter O, which makes the VIN fail to match and halts the transfer. People often assume any VIN copy is fine; even one wrong character can send the buyer back to fix the paperwork.
7. Buyer Address — Name, Address, City & State, ZIP Code
This block asks for the buyer’s full mailing address. Fill in the name, street address, city and state, and ZIP code on the matching lines so the new title and registration reach the right place. For example, Aisha N. Kalani, 45 Kinoole St, Hilo, HI 96720.
If the buyer uses a P.O. Box for mail but lives elsewhere, give the physical address the County needs and add the P.O. Box only if the office allows it. A common mistake is leaving the ZIP code blank, which can delay mailed documents. Some buyers think the address can be updated later for free; getting it right now avoids a return trip.
8. Lienholder Statement — “free from all liens and encumbrances except *lien ___”
This field asks whether any loan or lien is still attached to the vehicle. If the vehicle is paid off, leave the lien line blank, and the form notes that “if no lienholder shown, transfer will be processed without recording lien.” If a lien exists, name the lienholder on the line, such as First Hawaiian Bank.
If a loan was just paid off, get a lien release from the lender first, because an unreleased lien on record blocks a clean title. A common mistake is hiding a lien to speed the sale, which is a sworn false statement and can void the warranty in this form. People wrongly believe a verbal “it’s paid off” is enough; the record must show the lien is cleared, or the County will not pass clear title.
9. Odometer Disclosure — “I certify that the odometer now reads ___ (no tenths) miles”
This field asks for the mileage on the day of sale. Write the whole-number reading with no tenths, exactly as the dash shows, such as 84,210 miles. This is a federal odometer disclosure, so accuracy is required by law.
If the true mileage is uncertain or the odometer rolled over, you must check one of the two warning boxes described next. A common mistake is rounding the mileage up or down, which is a false odometer statement and can carry penalties. Many sellers think mileage is a formality; under the federal Truth in Mileage rules, a knowingly false reading is a serious violation.
10. Odometer Warning Checkboxes — (1) Mileage Exceeds Limits, (2) Not Actual Mileage
This field asks you to flag any odometer problem. Check box (1) if “the mileage reading reflects the amount of mileage in excess of its mechanical limits,” meaning the odometer rolled past its maximum. Check box (2) if “the odometer reading is NOT the actual mileage,” which prints the warning ODOMETER DISCREPANCY.
If the odometer is broken or was replaced, box (2) is usually the correct choice. A common mistake is leaving both boxes blank when the reading is unreliable, which certifies false “actual mileage” and exposes the seller to liability. People assume checking a box hurts the sale; it actually protects the seller by disclosing the truth, while hiding it creates legal risk.
11. Seller’s Title Warranty — “warrants that he is the lawful owner… right to sell”
This section is the seller’s sworn promise that they own the vehicle, have the right to sell it, and will defend the title against all claims except any lien noted above. You do not write much here, but by signing the form you adopt these statements as true. Read them before you sign so you understand what you are swearing to.
If you are selling on behalf of someone else, you may need a Motor Vehicle Power of Attorney to have authority. A common mistake is signing when the title is in someone else’s name, which makes the warranty false. People think this language is boilerplate; it is the legal backbone of the form, and a false warranty can lead to a claim from the buyer.
12. Seller Signature(s) and Printed Name(s)
This field asks the seller to sign and print their name. Print your full legal name on the “PRINTED NAME OF SELLER(S)” line and sign on the “SIGNATURE OF SELLER(S)” line, but only in front of the notary. For example, Marcus prints Marcus J. Akana and signs only after the notary asks him to.
If there are two registered owners on the title, both must print and sign. A common mistake is signing at home before reaching the notary, which the notary cannot accept and which forces a fresh form. Many sellers think a witness is the same as a notary; this form needs notary validation, not a casual witness.
13. Buyer Signature(s)
This field asks the buyer to sign accepting the vehicle. The buyer signs on the “SIGNATURE OF BUYER(S)” line to confirm they received the vehicle and the disclosed mileage. For example, Aisha N. Kalani signs to acknowledge the odometer reading and the purchase.
If two buyers are taking joint ownership, both should sign. A common mistake is the buyer skipping this line, which weakens proof that the buyer accepted the disclosed mileage. Some buyers think only the seller needs to sign; the buyer’s signature protects the buyer by locking in the odometer disclosure at sale.
14. Notary Certification Block — Document Date, Subscribed and Sworn, Notary Seal
This section is completed by a Hawai’i notary public, not by you. The notary fills in the document date, the day, month, and year you appear, your name as the signer, whether you are personally known or produced ID, the notary’s name and signature, the commission expiration, the number of pages, and the circuit, then applies the seal. The form states “Subscribed and sworn to before me this ___ day of , 20” and “STATE OF HAWAII NOTARY CERTIFICATION (Notary Validation Required).”
If you are off-island or homebound, you can use any commissioned Hawai’i notary, often found at banks, shipping stores, or the County offices. A common mistake is leaving the notary block partly blank, such as a missing circuit or page count, which makes the certificate defective and the form unusable. People assume any notary stamp completes the job; the entire block, including the date sworn and identification method, must be filled, or the County can reject it.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common Big Island sales walked through the form from top to bottom. Each shows what the named filer enters in the key sections.
Scenario 1 — Simple cash sale between neighbors in Hilo. Marcus sells his paid-off sedan to Aisha for cash, and the odometer is accurate.
| Form Section | What Marcus and Aisha Enter |
|---|---|
| Consideration (price) | Five thousand five hundred Dollars ($5,500) |
| Buyer name | Aisha N. Kalani |
| License Plate Number | HMC 482 |
| Make and Year | Toyota 2015 |
| Body Type | 4DSD |
| Vehicle Identification Number | 1FTEW1EP7JFA12345 |
| Lienholder line | Left blank (paid off) |
| Odometer reading | 84,210 miles, no warning box checked |
| Seller signature | Marcus J. Akana, signed before notary |
| Buyer signature | Aisha N. Kalani |
Scenario 2 — Vehicle sold with an outstanding lien in Kona. Janet sells her SUV to Carlos, but a loan with First Hawaiian Bank is still attached.
| Form Section | What Janet and Carlos Enter |
|---|---|
| Consideration (price) | Twelve thousand Dollars ($12,000) |
| Buyer name | Carlos R. Medeiros |
| License Plate Number | KAB 901 |
| Make and Year | Honda 2019 |
| Body Type | 4DSD |
| Vehicle Identification Number | 2HGFC2F69KH512345 |
| Lienholder line | First Hawaiian Bank (lien release attached) |
| Odometer reading | 51,300 miles, no warning box checked |
| Seller signature | Janet L. Souza, signed before notary |
| Buyer signature | Carlos R. Medeiros |
Scenario 3 — Odometer discrepancy on an older truck in Pāhoa. David sells an old pickup to Leilani, and the odometer was replaced, so the true mileage is unknown.
| Form Section | What David and Leilani Enter |
|---|---|
| Consideration (price) | Two thousand Dollars ($2,000) |
| Buyer name | Leilani K. Texeira |
| License Plate Number | HZP 117 |
| Make and Year | Ford 2004 |
| Body Type | PK |
| Vehicle Identification Number | 1FTRW07L31KC54321 |
| Lienholder line | Left blank (paid off) |
| Odometer reading | 38,000 miles, box (2) checked: NOT actual mileage |
| Seller signature | David P. Kahale, signed before notary |
| Buyer signature | Leilani K. Texeira |
How to File the Completed Form
You file the Bill of Sale together with the rest of the transfer packet at the County’s Vehicle Registration & Licensing Division. The form itself is not filed alone; it travels with the endorsed title, the current registration, and the safety inspection certificate so the buyer can apply for a new title.
- In person (East Hawai’i): Bring the packet to 120 Pauahi St Suite 100, Hilo, HI 96720, open 8:00 am to 4:00 pm, phone (808) 961-2223. The office accepts the transfer and collects fees at the counter, and you should keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing.
- In person (West Hawai’i): Bring the packet to the West Hawai’i Civic Center at 74-5044 Ane Keohokalole Hwy, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740, open 8:00 am to 4:00 pm, phone (808) 323-4800.
- Fees: The County assesses a transfer fee at the counter, and the statewide schedule lists the ownership title transfer at $10 with a $50 late penalty after 30 days. If the registration has expired or expires within 45 days, the office calculates and collects the renewal cost too.
- Payment methods: Counter payments are accepted at the office; bring cash, check, or card per the office’s posted options, and confirm by phone since accepted methods can vary by location.
- Proof of filing: Keep your receipt and a copy of the completed, notarized Bill of Sale, because this is your evidence of the sale date and price.
Sellers should also file the separate Notice of Transfer at any County DMV within 10 days, which is a different step from the buyer’s title application.
What Happens After You File
Once the buyer submits the packet, the County updates the official record and issues a new Certificate of Title and registration in the buyer’s name. The vehicle’s history now ties to the new owner, and the County’s record reflects the transfer date you wrote on the form. The buyer keeps the new title and registration and should store the notarized Bill of Sale with them.
For the seller, the key protection comes from filing the Notice of Transfer within 10 days. Under Act 109 and HRS §286-52, proof that the seller filed the notice serves as a complete defense against later claims arising from the buyer’s use of the vehicle, such as tickets or accidents. If the seller skips this step, their name can stay on the record and they may face matters tied to a vehicle they no longer own. To prove compliance, the seller can request a certified copy of the Notice of Transfer from any County DMV.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Signing the form before reaching the notary, which voids the notarization and forces a new form.
- Leaving the notary block partly blank, such as the circuit or page count, which makes the certificate defective.
- Writing a VIN with a wrong character, which fails to match the title and halts the transfer.
- Using a nickname or initials for the buyer, which forces a costly title correction later.
- Leaving the word amount of the price blank, which makes the sale figure ambiguous.
- Skipping the odometer warning box when mileage is unreliable, which certifies a false reading.
- Rounding the odometer to a tidy number, which is a false odometer disclosure under federal law.
- Hiding an existing lien, which is a sworn false statement that can void the title warranty.
- Forgetting the endorsed Certificate of Title, which leaves you with nothing to transfer.
- Bringing no current safety inspection, which stops the office from completing the transfer.
- Missing the 30-day window, which triggers the $50 late transfer fee.
- Skipping the seller’s separate 10-day Notice of Transfer, which leaves the seller exposed to liability.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do download the current County form and confirm the 2/17/2023 revision, so you use the version the office accepts.
- Do copy the VIN, plate, make, and year straight from the title, because the office cross-checks every field.
- Do sign only in front of a Hawai’i notary, since the form requires notary validation.
- Do disclose the true odometer reading and check a warning box if needed, to follow federal rules.
- Do bring the endorsed title, registration, and safety inspection together, so the transfer finishes in one trip.
- Do keep a notarized copy and your receipt, because they prove the sale date and price.
Don’ts
- Don’t use a generic online bill of sale for a Big Island vehicle, because the County prefers its own notarized form.
- Don’t leave the lien line filled in if the loan is truly paid, since an unreleased lien blocks clean title.
- Don’t write nicknames or abbreviations, which cause title corrections.
- Don’t wait past 30 days to file, because the late fee applies.
- Don’t assume the Bill of Sale removes your name, because you must also file the Notice of Transfer.
- Don’t guess the mileage, because a false odometer statement carries penalties.
Pros and Cons of Handling the Transfer Yourself vs. With Help
| Filing on Your Own | Using a Service or Professional |
|---|---|
| Saves money, since you avoid service fees and only pay County costs. | Costs more, but can be worth it for complex sales. |
| Gives you full control over accuracy, because you check each field yourself. | Reduces your effort, since a pro handles the paperwork and trips. |
| Builds know-how for future sales, so the next one is faster. | Lowers error risk, because experienced filers know the pain points. |
| Lets you move on your own schedule, with no third party in the loop. | Helps with tricky cases like liens, estates, or power of attorney. |
| Works well for simple, paid-off, clean-title sales. | Handles off-island or homebound sellers who need notary coordination. |
Hawaii County Bill of Sale vs. Statewide Form CS-L(MVR)40
| County of Hawai’i Bill of Sale | Statewide Form CS-L(MVR)40 |
|---|---|
| Hosted by the County on hawaiicounty.gov, preferred for Big Island vehicles. | A statewide motor vehicle bill of sale used across Hawai’i counties. |
| Requires full notary certification on the form. | Includes the odometer disclosure in the bottom section. |
| Carries the County’s seller warranty and lien language. | Often paired with county-specific transfer steps. |
| Best when the vehicle is registered in Hawai’i County. | Useful as a general statewide record of sale. |
FAQs
Do I have to get the Hawaii County Bill of Sale notarized?
Yes. The County form includes a notary certification block, and the seller must sign in front of a Hawai’i notary, who then completes the date, identification, page count, circuit, and seal.
Do I write the buyer’s name at the top or only at the bottom?
Yes, the buyer’s full legal name goes at the top after “sell, transfer and deliver unto,” and the buyer also signs in the buyer signature block lower on the form.
Do I check an odometer box if the mileage is correct?
No. Leave both warning boxes blank when the reading is accurate, and only check box (1) for exceeded limits or box (2) for “NOT the actual mileage.”
Do I leave the lien line blank if the car is paid off?
Yes. The form states that if no lienholder is shown, the transfer is processed without recording a lien, so a paid-off vehicle leaves that line empty.
Do I write tenths of a mile in the odometer field?
No. The form says “no tenths,” so enter only the whole-number reading, such as 84,210, exactly as the dash shows.
Do both owners sign if the title has two names?
Yes. When two registered owners appear on the title, both must print and sign as sellers, and each signs in front of the notary.
Do I have a deadline to complete the transfer?
Yes. The County requires the transfer documents within 30 days, and a $50 late transfer fee applies after that window.
Do I still owe a separate notice as the seller?
Yes. Under HRS §286-52, a private seller must file a Notice of Transfer within 10 days to be released from later liability.
Do I need a safety inspection to finish the transfer?
Yes. A current safety inspection certificate is part of the required packet, and the office will not complete the transfer without it.
Do I sign the form before going to the notary?
No. Sign only in front of the notary, because a signature made beforehand cannot be notarized and forces a fresh form.
Do I use a generic online bill of sale instead?
No. For a vehicle registered in Hawai’i County, use the County’s own notarized Bill of Sale form, which the office prefers.
Do I list the make or the model in the “Make and Year” box?
Yes, list the make, such as Toyota, not the model like Tacoma, and add the four-digit model year exactly as the title shows.
Do I need a power of attorney to sell someone else’s vehicle?
Yes. If you are not the titled owner, you generally need a Motor Vehicle Power of Attorney to sign and warrant the sale.
Do I keep a copy after filing?
Yes. Keep the notarized Bill of Sale and your counter receipt, because they prove the sale date, price, and disclosed mileage if any dispute arises.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Alaska DMV Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
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- How to Fill Out Idaho ITD Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Wyoming DOT Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs