How to Fill Out New Hampshire DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form TDMV 18) + FAQs

The New Hampshire Application for Duplicate Certificate of Title (Form TDMV 18) is the one-page form you file with the New Hampshire Division of Motor Vehicles (DMV) to replace a car title that was lost, stolen, destroyed, mutilated, made illegible, or never received. You file it with the Bureau of Title and Anti-Theft at 23 Hazen Drive in Concord, and you pay a $25 fee for each application.

If your title is missing, you can feel stuck. You cannot sell your car, you cannot transfer it, and you may not be able to settle an estate or trade it in at a dealer. The good news is that the fix is straightforward, and most people complete the whole form in under fifteen minutes once they know what each box wants. New Hampshire issues hundreds of thousands of title transactions each year, and a single missed signature or a forgotten lien release is the most common reason a duplicate title application bounces back in the mail.

Here is what you will learn in this guide:

• 📋 What Form TDMV 18 is, who can legally file it, and which law (RSA 261:12) controls it.
• 🖊️ How to fill out every box on the form, line by line, with real sample entries.
• ⚠️ The field-level traps that get applications rejected, like the 1999-or-older rule and the hidden lien release.
• 📬 How to file by mail or in person, what it costs, and how long it takes.
• ❓ Clear answers to the questions filers ask most about duplicate NH titles.

What the Form Is and Who Must File It

Form TDMV 18 is the official New Hampshire request for a replacement copy of a vehicle’s certificate of title. The certificate of title is the legal document that proves who owns a vehicle, and the DMV’s Bureau of Title and Anti-Theft keeps the master record. When your paper title goes missing, the state record still exists, so the form simply asks the DMV to print you a fresh copy from that record. You file it because you cannot prove ownership or transfer the vehicle without the physical title in hand.

The law that requires and controls this form is RSA 261:12, the duplicate certificate statute. In plain English, the statute says that if a title is lost, stolen, mutilated, destroyed, or becomes illegible, the first lienholder, or if there is none, the owner or the owner’s legal representative, must promptly apply for a duplicate. If you ignore this rule, you stay in legal limbo because you cannot sell, gift, or retitle the vehicle until the record is corrected. For example, Janet Foster finds out her late father’s truck cannot be moved into her name for probate until she first pulls a duplicate title, so she files TDMV 18 as his legal representative. A common misconception is that the duplicate is a brand-new title that erases the old one, but it is the same legal title reissued, and the original becomes void the moment the duplicate prints.

Three groups of people file this form. The most common filer is the everyday vehicle owner whose title was lost or destroyed in a move, a fire, or a flooded basement. The second group is lienholders, such as banks or credit unions, who hold the title while a car loan is open and need a replacement. The third group is licensed dealers who buy a vehicle and need a clean title to resell it. Each group signs in a different spot on the form, which matters because the wrong signer can void the whole application.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

Gather everything below before you open the form, because a single missing detail forces you to track down old paperwork and refile. New Hampshire does not forward mail, so an old or wrong address can send your new title to a stranger.

• Your driver’s license or ID number. The form asks for the license number of each owner, and the DMV uses it to confirm you are the person of record; without it, the Bureau cannot match you to the title.
• The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). This 17-character code (or shorter on older cars) is how the DMV pulls the exact vehicle file, and a wrong VIN pulls the wrong record or none at all.
• The previous title number and issuing state. Box 15 and Box 16 ask for these, and they speed up the search; missing them slows processing.
• Your current legal name(s) as titled. The name must match the DMV record, or the application stalls while clerks investigate the mismatch.
• Your exact current mailing address. Because the DMV mails the duplicate and does not forward mail, a stale address means a lost title and another $25.
• Lien information. You need the name and address of any lienholder ever listed on the original title, even one you already paid off, because a past lien must be formally released.
• A release of lien (if applicable). If a bank was named on the old title, you need a signed, notarized lien release, either on the form or on bank letterhead.
• Vehicle details. Make, model, body type, color, year of manufacture, model year, cylinders, gross weight, and axles all appear on the form and should match the record.
• Your $25 fee. Bring a check or money order payable to “State of NH – DMV,” because the application is not accepted without payment.

If you are a legal representative, such as an executor, add your proof of authority, like letters testamentary, because the DMV will not let a non-owner pull a title without it. If you are a business, you need proof that the signer is an authorized agent, which the form certifies under penalty of perjury.

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

You get Form TDMV 18 directly from the New Hampshire DMV. The cleanest path is to download the official PDF from the NH DMV title forms page, where the state posts the current version. You can also pick up a paper copy at any NH DMV office or substation, and many town clerk offices keep copies on hand for residents.

Make sure you have the current version before you write anything. The version in circulation is stamped TDMV 18 (Rev. 01/15) in the bottom corner, and you should confirm the revision date matches the copy on the state website so an outdated form does not get rejected. New Hampshire does not offer an online portal to file a duplicate title, so the form must be printed, completed in ink or typed, signed, and submitted on paper. A common misconception is that you can request a duplicate title through the online registration renewal system, but title work runs through the Bureau of Title only.

One detail surprises many filers. If your vehicle’s model year is 1999 or older, the vehicle is exempt from titling in New Hampshire, and no duplicate title can be issued at all. For those older vehicles, you do not file TDMV 18; instead you prove ownership through the registration record and a bill of sale, so calling the Bureau of Title at 603-227-4150 first saves you a wasted trip.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form TDMV 18 Line by Line

Work through the form from the top down, using the exact box numbers printed on it. Print clearly in black ink or type, and never guess on a field you are unsure about, because a wrong entry can void the application.

The “Check One” Reason Box (Top of Form)

The top of the form asks why you need a duplicate, and you must check exactly one box: STOLEN, LOST, DESTROYED, MUTILATED, BECOME ILLEGIBLE, or NEVER RECEIVED. To answer it, read the six choices and mark the single box that matches your situation, then move on. For example, Carlos Mendes spilled paint over his title in the garage, so he checks MUTILATED rather than LOST. A common edge case is the “never received” filer, who bought a car months ago and the title never arrived in the mail; that person checks NEVER RECEIVED and not LOST. The most common mistake here is checking nothing or checking two boxes, which forces the clerk to set the form aside and contact you, adding days or weeks. A misconception is that the reason you check changes the fee or the process, but the $25 cost and the steps are the same no matter which box you mark.

License # (Top Right)

This field asks for the driver’s license number of each owner listed on the title. To answer it, copy the number exactly as it appears on each owner’s New Hampshire license, including any letters. For example, Maria Lopez writes her full license number with no spaces or dashes unless they appear on the card. If a vehicle has two owners, the form gives two License # lines, so each owner enters a separate number. The common mistake is leaving this blank because people think the VIN is enough, but the DMV uses the license number to confirm your identity, and a blank field can stall the match. A misconception is that an expired license number cannot be used, but the number itself still identifies you in the system, though you should give a current ID where possible.

Box 1: Owner’s Name(s) (Last, First, Middle)

This box asks for the full legal name of every person who owns the vehicle, written last name first. To answer it, enter the name in the order printed on the form, last, first, middle, exactly as it appears on the current title and your ID. For example, Lopez, Maria, Elena is how Maria writes her name in Box 1. If the car is jointly owned, list both names here, because both owners must later sign. The common mistake is writing a nickname or a married name that does not match the title record, which triggers a hold while the DMV resolves the mismatch. A misconception is that you can update or correct your name on this form, but TDMV 18 only reissues the title as it is recorded, so a name change needs a separate title correction.

Box 2: Date(s) of Birth (MO/DAY/YR)

This box asks for the birth date of each listed owner. To answer it, write the date in the month, day, year format, such as 03/14/1985. Each owner gets a date that lines up with the name in Box 1, so the first name’s birth date goes on line A and the second on line B. For example, Maria Lopez enters 03/14/1985 on line A and her co-owner husband enters his date on line B. The common mistake is transposing the month and day, like writing the day first, which can cause an identity mismatch. A misconception is that the birth date is optional filler, but the DMV uses it with your name and license to confirm you are the true owner.

Mailing Address (Street or Box No., City/Town, State, Zip)

This section asks where the DMV should mail your duplicate title. To answer it, write your current full mailing address, and double-check every line, because the form warns in bold that the DMV does not forward mail. For example, Maria Lopez writes 47 Pine Street, Manchester, NH 03103. If you use a P.O. Box, that is fine for the mailing line, since the DMV mails the title there. The common and costly mistake is listing an old address, which sends your only legal proof of ownership to a place you no longer control, forcing a new application and another $25. A misconception is that the DMV will catch and fix a bad address, but staff mail to exactly what you wrote.

Box 3: Legal Residence if Other Than Mailing Address

This box asks for your actual home address only if it differs from the mailing address above. To answer it, leave it blank if your mailing and home addresses are the same, or fill in your home street address if you receive mail somewhere else, like a P.O. Box. For example, Carlos Mendes gets mail at a P.O. Box but lives at 12 Birch Lane, Nashua, NH 03060, so he writes that home address in Box 3. The common mistake is repeating the mailing address here when it is identical, which is harmless but unnecessary. A misconception is that this box changes where the title is mailed, but the DMV always mails to the mailing address line, not Box 3.

Box 4: Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This box asks for the unique VIN that identifies your exact vehicle. To answer it, copy the VIN carefully, character by character, from your registration or the dashboard plate, using all capital letters. For example, Carlos Mendes enters 1HGCM82633A004352 exactly as printed. Watch the look-alike characters, because a VIN uses the number 0 and 1 but never the letters O or I. The most damaging mistake on the whole form is a wrong VIN, since it pulls the wrong vehicle record or no record, and the DMV cannot issue a title against a VIN it cannot match. A misconception is that any close VIN will do, but a single wrong character means a different car in the database.

Box 5: Odometer – Actual Mileage

This box asks for the vehicle’s current actual mileage. To answer it, read the odometer and write the whole-number mileage, such as 84,210. For example, Maria Lopez records 84,210 from her dashboard. If the odometer is broken or has rolled over, note that, because federal odometer rules require honest disclosure. The common mistake is guessing a round number that does not match prior records, which can raise an odometer flag. A misconception is that mileage does not matter on a duplicate, but New Hampshire and federal law track mileage at every title event to fight fraud.

Boxes 6-9: Make, Model, Body Type, and Color

These boxes ask for the make, model name or number, body type, and color of the vehicle. To answer them, copy each detail from your registration so they match the DMV record exactly. For example, Carlos Mendes writes Honda in Box 6, Accord in Box 7, 4-Door Sedan in Box 8, and Silver in Box 9. If the car has two colors, list both in Box 9. The common mistake is describing the car loosely, like writing “car” for body type, which the clerk cannot match to the record. A misconception is that these fields are skippable because the VIN says everything, but the DMV cross-checks them to confirm the application matches the file.

Boxes 10-16: Year, Cylinders, Weight, Axles, Previous Title No., and State

These boxes ask for the year of manufacture (10), model year (11), number of cylinders (12), gross weight (13), axles (14), the previous title number (15), and the state that issued it (16). To answer them, copy each value from your registration and any old title paperwork you still have. For example, Carlos Mendes enters 2003 for both year boxes, 4 cylinders, the gross weight from his registration, 2 axles, the prior title number, and NH in Box 16. Remember the 1999-or-older rule here, because if Box 11 shows model year 1999 or earlier, the vehicle is exempt and no duplicate can issue. The common mistake is leaving Box 15 blank when you have the number, which slows the record search. A misconception is that the previous title number must be perfect or the form fails, but the DMV can still locate the record by VIN if that line is unknown.

Boxes 17-18: First and Second Lienholder

These boxes ask whether any lender holds or held a lien on the vehicle, naming the first lienholder in Box 17 and a second in Box 18. To answer them, write the lienholder’s full name and address, or write NONE in Box 17 if no lien ever existed. For example, David Park still owes money on his SUV, so he writes Granite State Credit Union and its address in Box 17. This is one of the most misunderstood parts of the form, because of a hidden rule explained in the instructions. Even if you paid the loan off years ago, if a lienholder was named on the original title, that lien must be formally released on the form below or on bank letterhead, signed and notarized by the former lienholder. The common mistake is writing NONE when a paid-off lien was on the old title, which gets the application rejected. A misconception is that paying off a loan automatically clears the title, but the DMV needs proof in writing.

Box 19: Owner’s Signature(s) or Lienholder

This box is where the owner or lienholder signs the application. To answer it, read the perjury penalty printed on the form first, then sign on the X line in ink. For jointly owned vehicles, both owners must sign here, because the form and the instructions require every owner’s signature. For example, Maria Lopez and her husband each sign on a separate X line in Box 19. The common mistake is one spouse signing for both, which voids a joint application and forces a refile. A misconception is that a typed name counts as a signature, but the DMV needs a real handwritten signature.

Box 20: Date Signed (MO/DAY/YR)

This box asks for the date each signer signs. To answer it, write the date next to each signature in month, day, year format, such as 06/06/2026. For example, Maria Lopez writes 06/06/2026 when she signs. If two owners sign on different days, each writes the date he or she actually signed. The common mistake is leaving the date blank, which can make the DMV question when the application was executed. A misconception is that the date is the date of mailing, but it is the date you actually sign.

Corporate or Agent Certification (Below Box 20)

This section applies only when the owner is a corporation, partnership, or other association. To answer it, the person signing in Box 19 must print his or her name and certify, under penalty of perjury, that he or she is authorized to sign for the named owner. For example, Susan Reed, the fleet manager for a delivery company, prints her name and certifies she is authorized to sign for the company in Box 1. Individuals leave this section blank. The common mistake is a business owner skipping this certification, which makes the company signature invalid. A misconception is that any employee can sign for a company, but only an authorized agent may, and the certification proves it.

Boxes 21-23: Authorization for Mailing to a Licensed Dealer

This section applies only when the owner is selling the vehicle to a licensed dealer and wants the new title mailed straight to that dealer. To answer it, the seller fills in the dealer’s name, address, and dealer number in Box 21, then signs Box 22 and dates Box 23. For example, Carlos Mendes sells his Accord to a dealership, so he names the dealer in Box 21 and signs Box 22 to authorize the DMV to forward the title. To use this, the seller must also complete the assignment on Form TDMV 17A. The common mistake is filling this out when you are keeping the car, which can misroute your title to a dealer. A misconception is that this is required for every sale, but it is optional and only for dealer transfers.

Release of Lien Section (Bottom of Form)

The bottom of the form holds a Release of Lien block for clearing a past or present lien. To answer it, the lienholder enters the make, year, body style, VIN, owner’s name and address, then the lienholder’s name and address, and signs as the authorized agent. For example, Granite State Credit Union completes this block to release its paid-off lien on David Park’s SUV. If your bank prefers, it can instead provide a notarized release on its own letterhead. The common mistake is the owner trying to sign this release, which only the lienholder can do. A misconception is that an old, expired lien can be ignored, but it must be released in writing before the duplicate issues.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

These three walkthroughs follow named filers through the full form so you can see what real entries look like.

Scenario 1: Sole owner with a lost title and no lien. Maria Lopez moved apartments and cannot find her sedan’s title.

Form Section	What Maria Enters
Reason box	Checks LOST
License #	Her current NH license number
Box 1: Owner’s name	Lopez, Maria, Elena
Box 2: Date of birth	03/14/1985
Mailing address	47 Pine Street, Manchester, NH 03103
Box 4: VIN	2T1BURHE5JC123456
Boxes 6-9: Vehicle	Toyota / Corolla / 4-Door Sedan / Blue
Box 17: First lienholder	NONE
Box 19-20: Signature and date	Signs on X line, dates 06/06/2026
Fee	$25 check to State of NH – DMV

Scenario 2: Joint owners with a stolen title. Maria and her husband Luis co-own a truck whose title was stolen in a break-in.

Form Section	What the Lopez Couple Enters
Reason box	Checks STOLEN
License #	Both spouses’ license numbers
Box 1: Owner’s names	Lopez, Maria, Elena and Lopez, Luis, Andres
Box 2: Dates of birth	Maria’s on line A, Luis’s on line B
Mailing address	47 Pine Street, Manchester, NH 03103
Box 4: VIN	1FTEW1EP4JFA12345
Boxes 6-11: Vehicle	Ford / F-150 / Pickup / Black / 2018 / 2018
Box 17: First lienholder	NONE
Box 19-20: Signatures	Both Maria and Luis sign separate X lines and date

Scenario 3: Owner with a paid-off lien needing a release. David Park finished his car loan but the original title named his credit union.

Form Section	What David Enters
Reason box	Checks LOST
License #	His current NH license number
Box 1: Owner’s name	Park, David, James
Box 4: VIN	5J6RW2H89KL045678
Boxes 6-9: Vehicle	Honda / CR-V / SUV / Gray
Box 17: First lienholder	Granite State Credit Union with address
Release of Lien block	Credit union completes and signs the release
Box 19-20: Signature and date	David signs on X line, dates the form
Attachment	Notarized lien release on bank letterhead (if not on form)
Fee	$25 check to State of NH – DMV

How to File the Completed Form

New Hampshire accepts Form TDMV 18 two ways, by mail or in person, because there is no online filing for duplicate titles. Pick the channel that fits your timeline, and always keep a copy of the signed form before you send it.

By mail. Send the completed, signed form with your $25 check or money order payable to “State of NH – DMV” to the Bureau of Title and Anti-Theft, 23 Hazen Drive, Concord, NH 03305. The accepted payment by mail is a check or money order, not cash. Mailed duplicate titles typically take a few weeks to process and arrive, and longer if a lien release is involved. Keep a photocopy of the form and a record of your check as your proof of filing, since the DMV does not forward mail and cannot recover a misaddressed title.

In person. You may bring the form to any NH DMV office or substation, where staff can review it on the spot and flag errors before you pay. In-person offices accept additional payment methods such as cash or card in many locations, though you should confirm with the office. Processing in person is faster, and the clerk can answer field questions directly. Your proof of filing is the receipt the office gives you, which you should keep until your title arrives.

If you have any doubt about a field or your eligibility, call the Bureau of Title at 603-227-4150 or email Title@dos.nh.gov before you file, because a quick call is cheaper than a rejected application.

What Happens After You File

After the DMV accepts your application, it prints a duplicate certificate of title from the state record and mails it to the address you listed. The duplicate is the legal title, and the original is void from that point, so if you later find the old one you must surrender it to the department under RSA 261:12. Most owners keeping their car receive the duplicate within a few weeks by mail.

One rule catches sellers and dealers off guard. Under the statute, the DMV will not issue a new title to a transferee or a dealer based on a duplicate application until 15 days after it receives the application. In plain terms, if you are using the duplicate to sell or transfer the car right away, the state builds in a two-week safety window to protect against fraud and competing claims. For example, Carlos Mendes wants to sell to a dealer the same week, but the dealer’s new title cannot print until that 15-day clock runs. A common misconception is that the duplicate lets you transfer instantly, but the 15-day hold can delay a sale, so plan around it.

If your application is rejected, the DMV mails it back with a note explaining what to fix, often a missing signature, a blank lien release, or an outdated address. You correct the issue and resubmit, and in most cases your original $25 still applies, though you should confirm when you refile.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form

• Checking no reason box or two reason boxes. The clerk cannot process an unclear application and must contact you, adding delay.
• Writing the wrong VIN. A single wrong character pulls the wrong vehicle or none, and the DMV cannot issue the title.
• Listing an old mailing address. The DMV does not forward mail, so your title goes to the wrong place and is often lost.
• Writing NONE for a paid-off lien that was on the old title. This triggers a rejection because past liens must be released in writing.
• Forgetting the notarized lien release. Without it, a vehicle with a former lien cannot get a duplicate title.
• Only one owner signing a jointly owned vehicle. Both owners must sign Box 19, or the application is void.
• Filing for a 1999-or-older vehicle. These are exempt from titling, so the application cannot be approved.
• Skipping the corporate agent certification. A business signature without it is invalid and stops processing.
• Leaving the date in Box 20 blank. The DMV may question when the form was signed and hold it.
• Sending cash by mail. Mailed applications need a check or money order, and cash can be lost or refused.
• Using a nickname or unmatched name in Box 1. A name that does not match the record causes an identity hold.
• Forgetting the $25 fee. An application without payment is not accepted and is returned.

Do’s and Don’ts

Do’s

• Do confirm your vehicle’s model year first, because a 1999-or-older car is exempt and cannot get a duplicate title.
• Do copy the VIN character by character, since the VIN is how the DMV finds your exact vehicle record.
• Do verify your mailing address twice, because the DMV mails the title and does not forward it.
• Do release any past lien in writing, as a former lienholder on the old title must sign a release.
• Do have all owners sign Box 19, because joint vehicles need every owner’s signature.
• Do keep a copy of the signed form and your payment, so you have proof of filing if the title is delayed.

Don’ts

• Don’t check more than one reason box, because it forces the clerk to stop and contact you.
• Don’t write NONE for a lien that appeared on the original title, since it gets the application rejected.
• Don’t mail cash, as it can be lost and is not the accepted mailed payment.
• Don’t use the form to change your name, because TDMV 18 only reissues the title as recorded.
• Don’t assume an instant transfer, since the 15-day hold under RSA 261:12 can delay a dealer sale.
• Don’t sign for a co-owner, because each owner must sign personally.

Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help

Many owners file TDMV 18 themselves, while some use a title service, dealer, or attorney. Here is how the two paths compare.

Pros of filing on your own

• It is cheaper, because you pay only the $25 state fee and no service markup.
• It is fast for simple cases, since a single owner with no lien can finish in minutes.
• You control the address, so you reduce the risk of a title mailed to the wrong place.
• You learn your own record, which helps if you later sell or transfer the car.
• In-person filing gives instant review, so a clerk can catch errors before you pay.

Cons of filing on your own

• Lien releases can be tricky, because tracking down a former lender for a notarized release takes time.
• Estate or business filings need extra proof, and the rules can confuse first-time filers.
• A single error means a refile, which costs days or weeks.
• The 15-day transfer hold can surprise you, delaying a planned sale.
• No online option exists, so you must handle paper and mail or visit an office yourself.

Form TDMV 18 vs. Related New Hampshire Title Forms

Form or Document	What It Does
TDMV 18 (Duplicate Certificate of Title)	Requests a replacement of a lost, stolen, or destroyed title
TDMV 20A (Release of Lien)	Used by a lienholder to formally release a recorded lien
TDMV 17A (Owner’s Assignment / Dealer’s Reassignment)	Transfers ownership and is required when authorizing a dealer in Box 21
Vehicle registration record	Proves ownership for 1999-or-older exempt vehicles that cannot be titled

FAQs

How much does a duplicate NH title cost? Yes, there is a fee. New Hampshire charges $25 for each Application for Duplicate Certificate of Title, paid by check or money order to “State of NH – DMV,” or by other methods in person.

Can I get a duplicate title online in New Hampshire? No. New Hampshire has no online portal for duplicate titles. You must complete the paper Form TDMV 18 and submit it by mail or in person at a DMV office.

Can I get a duplicate title for a 1999 or older vehicle? No. Vehicles with a model year of 1999 or older are exempt from titling in New Hampshire, so no duplicate title can be issued for them.

Do I check LOST or NEVER RECEIVED if my title never came in the mail? No, not LOST. If the title was never delivered after a purchase, check the NEVER RECEIVED box, not LOST, so the DMV records the correct reason.

Do I write NONE in Box 17 if I already paid off my loan? No, not if a lienholder appeared on the original title. You must list that lienholder and have the lien released in writing, even if the loan is fully paid.

Do both owners need to sign Box 19 on a jointly owned car? Yes. When a vehicle is jointly owned, both owners must sign Box 19, or the application is invalid and gets sent back.

Do I fill in Box 3 if my home and mailing address are the same? No. Leave Box 3 blank when your legal residence matches your mailing address. Only fill it in when your home address differs from where you get mail.

Can a lienholder file for a duplicate title? Yes. Under RSA 261:12, the first lienholder may apply for a duplicate certificate, since the lienholder often holds the title while a loan is open.

Can I transfer or sell my car right after getting a duplicate? No, not always immediately. The DMV will not issue a new title to a transferee or dealer until 15 days after it receives the duplicate application.

Do I need to surrender my old title if I find it later? Yes. State law requires you to promptly return the original certificate to the department once a duplicate has been issued, because the original is void.

Can I use TDMV 18 to change my name on the title? No. This form only reissues the title as recorded. A name change requires a separate title correction with supporting documents.

Can a business or estate file this form? Yes. A corporation, partnership, or legal representative can file, but the signer must certify authority, and an estate filer needs proof such as letters testamentary.

Where do I mail the completed form? Yes, there is one address. Mail it to the Bureau of Title and Anti-Theft, 23 Hazen Drive, Concord, NH 03305, with your $25 check or money order.

Can I pay with cash if I mail the form? No. Mailed applications must include a check or money order. Cash is accepted only when you file in person at a DMV office.