The New Mexico MVD Vehicle Bill of Sale, Form MVD-10009 (Rev. 05/13), is the official Taxation & Revenue Department document that records the sale and transfer of a vehicle or vessel between a seller and a buyer when the Certificate of Title does not already contain every required detail. You use it to prove the sale price, the odometer reading, and who signed off on the deal, so the buyer can title and register the vehicle in their own name.
This form fills the gaps left by an incomplete title. If the purchase price, the odometer disclosure, or the seller’s assignment signatures are missing from the title, the MVD will not process the transfer without this bill of sale. Even a single erasure on the document can void it, and that mistake alone sends many buyers home to start over. New Mexico law also adds a statutory penalty when a buyer waits more than 30 days to apply for the transfer, so a clean, correct form protects both your time and your wallet.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📋 What Form MVD-10009 is and exactly who must file it
- 🖊️ A line-by-line walkthrough of every box, with sample entries
- 👨👩👧 Three real filled-out examples, including a family gift and a lien payoff
- 🏢 Every way to file, from the MVD field office to the online portal
- ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that void the form or trigger penalties
What Form MVD-10009 Is and Who Must File It
Form MVD-10009 is the New Mexico Bill of Sale issued by the Motor Vehicle Division of the Taxation & Revenue Department. The form’s own instructions say it is needed when the required information on the MVD-10030 Certificate of Title or the MVD-10032 Boat Certificate of Title is not complete. That missing information includes the purchase price, the odometer disclosure statement, and the seller’s assignment to the buyer with all required signatures.
The people who file it are private sellers, private buyers, and licensed dealers. In a private sale, the seller fills in the vehicle details, the price, and the odometer reading, then signs to transfer ownership. The buyer signs to accept the vehicle and then carries the form to an MVD field office. Dealers use the form when the assignment and reassignment spaces on the title have all been used up.
The form covers more than cars. It applies to any titled vehicle and to vessels, which is why it includes boat-specific fields like Vessel Beam Width and Vessel Transom Depth. Trailers and motor vehicles run through the same document, so the same rules apply whether you are selling a pickup, a fishing boat, or a utility trailer.
The reason the state cares is control of the title chain. New Mexico must know who owns each vehicle for tax, lien, and law-enforcement reasons. The form’s instructions are blunt that the buyer must title the vehicle or vessel before it can be sold again, which keeps the ownership record unbroken. The direct consequence of skipping the form is a stalled transfer, an unregistered vehicle, and a growing stack of penalty fees.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything before you open the form, because a single missing number can stop the whole transfer at the counter. New Mexico requires one proof of identity and two proofs of New Mexico residency for titling work, so bring those for the buyer. Having each item ready also keeps you from guessing, and a guess in the odometer or VIN box can void the document.
Here is your pre-filing checklist:
- The vehicle’s full VIN or Hull Identification Number, copied from the title, because the MVD cross-checks it and a wrong digit blocks the transfer.
- The Year, Make, Model, and Body Type of the vehicle, since a mismatch with the title record forces a correction trip.
- The exact odometer reading with no tenths, because the federal odometer law requires a truthful number at transfer.
- The exact sale amount, since the state calculates excise tax from this figure and a blank stops processing.
- The seller’s full legal name and address, matching the name on the title so the assignment is valid.
- The buyer’s full legal name and address, which becomes the new owner of record.
- The lienholder’s name, address, and dates if a loan is still attached, or the transfer cannot close.
- The dealer license number if a dealership is the seller, because the dealer fields are required for licensed sales.
- A working black or blue pen, since erasures and alterations void the form under the printed warning.
- Proof of insurance for the buyer, which the MVD needs to register the vehicle and issue a plate.
If any item is missing, the safest move is to stop and find it rather than estimate. A missing odometer reading or sale price is the most common reason a bill of sale gets rejected at the window.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can download Form MVD-10009 free from the official MVD form page, which hosts the current Rev. 05/13 PDF. Always confirm the Rev. 05/13 date printed in the lower corner so you know you have the version the MVD accepts. Older or third-party copies sometimes drop fields, and a non-standard form can be refused at the counter.
You can also pick up a paper copy at any MVD field office or at an authorized partner office such as MVD Express. Printing the official PDF at home works fine, as long as you print it clean and single-sided so the instructions on the reverse stay readable.
A key reason to use the official copy is the warning printed on it: any alterations or erasures will void this document. The state version is laid out so each field has enough room to write clearly, which lowers the chance of a cramped, unreadable entry. The consequence of using a sloppy off-brand template is a clerk who cannot match your entries to the title, which sends you home to redo the sale paperwork.
Fill the form out by hand in ink or type it before printing. If you type it, do not edit and reprint over an old copy in a way that leaves stray marks, because the no alterations rule still applies to the final printed page.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form MVD-10009 Line by Line
The form is one page with grouped sections: vehicle or vessel information, the sale statement, seller and buyer blocks, the lienholder block, the dealer block, and the odometer disclosure. Fill each field in order, print clearly, and never erase. Below is every field with how to answer it, a sample entry, edge cases, and the mistakes that cause rejection.
Year
This box asks for the model year of the vehicle or vessel, not the year you bought it. Copy the year exactly as it appears on the Certificate of Title so the records match. For example, Maria Lopez writes 2015 for her Honda Civic.
A common edge case is a vehicle whose model year differs from its build date; always use the title’s year, not the manufacture date. The common mistake is writing the purchase year by accident, which creates a mismatch with the title and forces a correction. Many people think the year is just a formality, but the MVD treats it as part of the vehicle’s identity and will flag any difference.
Make
The Make field asks for the manufacturer of the vehicle or vessel, such as Ford, Toyota, or Tracker. Write the make in plain capital letters exactly as shown on the title. For example, Carlos Trujillo writes TOYOTA for his Tacoma.
If the boat has a hull builder different from the engine brand, use the hull manufacturer here. The frequent mistake is abbreviating in a way the clerk cannot match, like writing Chevy instead of CHEVROLET, which slows verification. People often think any close spelling is fine, but the MVD matches the make against the title and the VIN decode, so use the full name.
Model
This field asks for the specific model name, like Civic, F-150, or Bass Boat. Copy it from the title and keep it short and exact. For example, Aisha Bennett writes CIVIC under model.
For older or rare vehicles where the title shows no model, write the body style or leave it as it appears on the title rather than inventing a name. The common error is mixing up model and body type, which confuses the record. A frequent misconception is that the trim level belongs here; the MVD wants the base model name, not Civic EX-L Touring.
Body Type (series)
The Body Type (series) box asks for the vehicle’s style, such as sedan, pickup, SUV, or for a boat, its series. Use the standard description from the title. For example, Maria Lopez writes 4-DOOR SEDAN.
For a vessel, this is where the series or class designation goes if the title shows one. The common mistake is leaving this blank because it seems minor, which can cause the clerk to request the title again. People assume body type is optional, but it helps the MVD confirm the vehicle matches its records, so always fill it in.
Vehicle or Hull Identification (Serial) Number
This is the most important field on the form. It asks for the full VIN of a vehicle or the HIN of a vessel, copied digit for digit from the title. For example, Carlos Trujillo writes 1NXBR32E85Z123456 with no spaces or dashes added.
The edge case is a classic vehicle with a short, non-standard serial number; enter exactly what the title shows, even if it looks too short. The single most damaging mistake here is transposing or dropping a character, because the MVD cannot link your form to the right title and the transfer fails outright. Many filers think a partial VIN is acceptable, but the full identifier is mandatory and is the key the state uses to match every record.
State
The State field asks which state issued the current title or registration for the vehicle or vessel. Write the two-letter abbreviation, such as NM or TX. For example, Aisha Bennett writes NM because her car was already New Mexico-titled.
If the vehicle is coming from out of state, write that state here, and remember the form’s rule that an out-of-state or never-titled vehicle must be brought in for a visual inspection. The common mistake is assuming New Mexico when the title is actually foreign to the state, which surprises the buyer with a required VIN inspection. People often forget that an out-of-state title triggers a physical inspection, so plan for that extra step.
License Plate or Vessel Registration Number
This box asks for the current license plate number on the vehicle or the registration number on the vessel. Enter the plate or registration as printed. For example, Maria Lopez writes NMP-1234.
Here is a critical New Mexico nuance: the state uses Plate-to-Owner, meaning the plate belongs to the seller, not the car. The form instructs that the seller must remove the plate before transferring ownership, then has 30 days to move it to another vehicle of the same class or return it for cancellation. The common mistake is leaving the plate on the car for the buyer, which is wrong under state procedure and can expose the seller to liability for the buyer’s future use.
Vessel Beam Width, Transom Depth, and Overall Length
These three boat-only fields ask for the vessel’s Beam Width, Transom Depth, and Overall Vessel Length, each in feet and inches. Measure carefully and write both the feet and inches values. For example, a buyer of a fishing boat writes Overall Length 16 FT 6 IN.
If you are selling a car, truck, or trailer, leave these blank because they do not apply. The common mistake is rounding a boat’s measurements, which can mismatch the manufacturer’s specs the MVD expects for vessels. Many people skip these thinking they are optional, but for a titled vessel the dimensions are part of the record and the transfer can stall without them.
Exact Sale Amount
The Exact Sale Amount field asks for the precise dollar figure the buyer paid. Write the full amount with cents if any, after the printed dollar sign. For example, Carlos Trujillo writes $8,500.00.
For a gift or family transfer, you still must enter a figure, even if it is $0.00 or a nominal sum like $1.00; do not leave it blank. The common mistake is rounding or guessing, which can throw off the excise tax the state charges, currently a percentage of the sale price. A widespread misconception is that you can lowball the price to cut taxes, but the MVD can question a price far below market value, and a false statement on this form carries legal risk.
Seller’s Name(s) If Private Sale
This block asks for the full legal name or names of the seller in a private sale. Type or print the name exactly as it appears on the title, including a co-owner if there is one. For example, Maria Lopez prints MARIA E. LOPEZ.
If two people own the vehicle jointly, both names go here and both must sign later. The common mistake is using a nickname or maiden name that does not match the title, which breaks the assignment chain and voids the transfer. People often think a casual name is fine between friends, but the MVD matches this to the title’s owner of record, so use the legal name.
Seller’s Address and City, State, Zip Code
These fields ask for the seller’s current mailing address, split into the street line and the city-state-zip line. Write the full address where the seller can receive mail. For example, Maria Lopez writes 4820 Lomas Blvd NE and Albuquerque, NM 87110.
If the seller uses a P.O. Box, enter it on the address line, since the MVD needs a reachable address for the record. The common mistake is leaving the address blank because the buyer already knows the seller, which leaves the record incomplete. Many assume the address is only for mailing, but it also ties the seller to the transaction if a question arises later.
First Seller’s Signature and Second Seller’s Signature (if Joint Ownership)
These fields, marked with an X, ask the seller or sellers to sign by hand to transfer ownership. The signature confirms the seller sells, transfers, and conveys the vehicle and warrants it free of liens. For example, Maria Lopez signs on the First Seller’s Signature line in ink.
If the title shows two owners joined by and, both must sign; if joined by or, one may sign. The most common and costly mistake is a missing second seller signature on a jointly owned vehicle, which makes the transfer invalid and forces the buyer back to the seller. People wrongly assume one signature always covers a couple, but joint ownership with and requires both signatures.
Seller(s) Printed Name and Date
This area asks the seller to print their name and write the date of signing beside the signature. Print clearly so the clerk can read the name and enter the Date as MM/DD/YYYY. For example, Maria Lopez prints MARIA E. LOPEZ and dates it 05/12/2026.
If the sale and the paperwork happen on different days, use the actual date you sign the form. The common mistake is leaving the date blank, which matters because the buyer’s 30-day clock to apply for transfer starts from the date of sale. People often think the date is unimportant, but it sets the deadline that determines whether a penalty applies.
Buyer’s Name(s)
This block asks for the full legal name or names of the buyer who is taking ownership. Type or print the name exactly as it should appear on the new title. For example, Carlos Trujillo prints CARLOS A. TRUJILLO.
If two people will co-own the vehicle, list both names here and decide whether they want and or or between them on the new title. The common mistake is misspelling the buyer’s name, which carries the error onto the permanent title record. Many buyers think they can fix the name later, but a corrected title means another trip and another fee, so get it right now.
Buyer’s Address and City, State, Zip Code
These fields ask for the buyer’s current address, split across the street line and the city-state-zip line. Enter the address where the buyer will receive the new title and registration. For example, Carlos Trujillo writes 119 Rio Grande Blvd NW and Albuquerque, NM 87104.
A P.O. Box is allowed on the address line, but the buyer must still prove New Mexico residency separately at the counter. The common mistake is using an old address, which sends the new title to the wrong place. People assume the address only affects mail, but it also sets the buyer’s county, which can affect emissions and tax handling.
Lienholder’s Name(s), Address, City, State, Zip Code
This block asks for the name and address of any lender that holds a loan on the vehicle. Complete it only if a lien exists; type or print the lender’s full legal name. For example, a buyer financing through a credit union writes NUSENDA FEDERAL CREDIT UNION and its address.
If there is no lien, leave this block blank, since the seller’s signature already warrants the vehicle is free of any liens or encumbrances. The common mistake is hiding an existing lien, which the MVD discovers through the title and which stops the transfer cold. People believe a private buyer can ignore a lien, but the loan must be satisfied or the lender must release it before a clean title can pass.
Lienholder Number, File Date, and Maturity Date
These fields ask for the lien’s reference number, the date the lien was filed, and the date the loan matures. Copy these from the lien paperwork or the existing title record. For example, a lender’s File Date might read 03/01/2024 and the Maturity Date 03/01/2029.
If you are paying off the loan as part of the sale, the lienholder must provide a lien release rather than these ongoing dates. The common mistake is leaving these blank while still listing a lienholder, which creates a contradictory record. Many filers think the lien section is optional detail, but incomplete lien data can delay the title until the lender confirms the payoff.
Dealership Name and Dealer License Number
These fields apply only when a licensed dealer is the seller. The dealer prints the Dealership Name and enters its Dealer License Number issued by the state. For example, a dealer writes SANDIA MOTORS LLC and license NM-DLR-04567.
A private seller leaves these blank, since these fields exist for dealer reassignments after the title’s assignment spaces are used. The common mistake is a dealer forgetting the license number, which makes the dealer sale invalid for titling. People assume any seller can ignore this, and that is true for private parties, but for a dealer the license number is mandatory.
Vehicle Odometer Disclosure Statement: Odometer Reading
This field asks the seller to certify the vehicle’s exact mileage with no tenths at the moment of transfer. Write the whole-number reading from the dash. For example, Maria Lopez writes 86,432 miles.
The disclosure is required by federal and state law, and the form warns that a fraudulent statement can bring fines or imprisonment. The common mistake is rounding the reading or including tenths, which conflicts with the actual odometer and can look like tampering. Many sellers think mileage is informal, but a false odometer statement is a serious offense, so record the exact number you see.
Odometer Mileage Code: AM, EL, or NM
After the reading, the form asks you to check one of three boxes: The Actual Mileage (AM), Mileage in Excess of Mechanical Limits (EL), or Not the Actual Mileage / Odometer Discrepancy (NM). Check the single box that fits the vehicle’s true situation. For example, Carlos Trujillo’s seller checks Actual Mileage (AM) because the odometer works correctly.
Check EL when the odometer has rolled past its mechanical maximum, and check NM only when you know the reading is not accurate, such as after an odometer replacement. The common mistake is checking AM out of habit when the odometer is broken, which is a false certification. People wrongly believe these codes are technicalities, but they protect the buyer and carry the same fraud penalties as the reading itself.
Odometer Section Seller and Buyer Signatures
This final part asks both the seller and the buyer to sign the odometer disclosure, confirming the mileage statement. Each party signs on the marked line. For example, Maria Lopez signs as seller and Carlos Trujillo signs as buyer.
These signatures are separate from the main sale signatures above, and both are required for the disclosure to be valid. The common mistake is signing the top of the form but forgetting the odometer signatures, which leaves the disclosure incomplete and the transfer blocked. Many people think one set of signatures covers everything, but the odometer statement needs its own seller and buyer signatures.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common New Mexico fact patterns, each following one person through the form. The entries show what each filer writes in the most important fields.
Example 1: Private Car Sale Between Two Individuals
Maria Lopez sells her 2015 Honda Civic to Carlos Trujillo for cash in Albuquerque.
| Form Section | What Maria and Carlos Enter |
|---|---|
| Year / Make / Model | 2015 / HONDA / CIVIC |
| Body Type (series) | 4-DOOR SEDAN |
| VIN | 1NXBR32E85Z123456 |
| State / Plate Number | NM / NMP-1234 |
| Exact Sale Amount | $8,500.00 |
| Seller’s Name and Address | MARIA E. LOPEZ, 4820 Lomas Blvd NE, Albuquerque, NM 87110 |
| Buyer’s Name and Address | CARLOS A. TRUJILLO, 119 Rio Grande Blvd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104 |
| Odometer Reading / Code | 86,432 miles / Actual Mileage (AM) |
| Signatures and Date | Both sign sale and odometer lines, dated 05/12/2026 |
Maria removes her NM plate before handing over the keys, then has 30 days to transfer or return it.
Example 2: Family Gift With a Nominal Price
Aisha Bennett gives her 2012 Toyota Corolla to her younger brother, recording a nominal price.
| Form Section | What Aisha Enters |
|---|---|
| Year / Make / Model | 2012 / TOYOTA / COROLLA |
| Body Type (series) | 4-DOOR SEDAN |
| VIN | 2T1BU4EE9CC987654 |
| State / Plate Number | NM / NMG-5678 |
| Exact Sale Amount | $1.00 |
| Seller’s Name and Address | AISHA M. BENNETT, 200 Central Ave SE, Albuquerque, NM 87102 |
| Buyer’s Name and Address | DAVID BENNETT, 200 Central Ave SE, Albuquerque, NM 87102 |
| Odometer Reading / Code | 110,205 miles / Actual Mileage (AM) |
| Signatures and Date | Both sign sale and odometer lines, dated 05/15/2026 |
Aisha still completes the odometer disclosure, because the federal rule applies even to a family gift.
Example 3: Sale With an Active Lien
Carlos Trujillo sells a 2018 Ford F-150 that still has a credit-union loan attached.
| Form Section | What Carlos and the Buyer Enter |
|---|---|
| Year / Make / Model | 2018 / FORD / F-150 |
| Body Type (series) | PICKUP |
| VIN | 1FTEW1EP7JFA45678 |
| State / Plate Number | NM / NMT-9012 |
| Exact Sale Amount | $22,000.00 |
| Buyer’s Name and Address | JANET RIVERA, 75 Paseo del Norte, Rio Rancho, NM 87124 |
| Lienholder Name | NUSENDA FEDERAL CREDIT UNION |
| Lien File / Maturity Date | 03/01/2024 / 03/01/2029 |
| Odometer Reading / Code | 48,900 miles / Actual Mileage (AM) |
The loan must be paid and a lien release obtained before Janet can receive a clean title.
How to File the Completed Form MVD-10009
After both parties sign, the buyer files the completed bill of sale along with the title and any other ownership documents. New Mexico offers several channels, and the right one depends on whether the title is in-state and whether a lien or inspection is involved.
- In person at an MVD field office. Bring the signed Form MVD-10009, the Certificate of Title, proof of insurance, one proof of identity, and two proofs of New Mexico residency to any local field office. You pay the title fee and excise tax, and you keep your stamped receipt and registration as proof of filing.
- Online title transfer. Eligible in-state transfers can be done through the MVD online services at mvdonline.com, where you upload the documents and pay by card; save the confirmation email and printout as your proof.
- Authorized partner offices. Private partners such as MVD Express process the same transaction for an added service fee, accept cash or card, and hand you the same official documents; keep the receipt.
- Out-of-state or never-titled vehicles. The form requires you to bring the vehicle itself to a field office for a visual VIN inspection, so this route must be in person, and you keep the inspection record with your receipt.
Plan to title and register within 30 days of the sale, because the form warns of a statutory fee for failure to apply within 30 days. Payment methods at field offices typically include cash, check, and card, while online and partner channels lean on cards. Processing of a counter transfer is usually same-day, with the printed registration serving as immediate proof while the title arrives by mail.
What Happens After You File
Once the MVD accepts your bill of sale and title documents, the agency records the buyer as the new owner and issues a new Certificate of Title in the buyer’s name. The buyer receives a registration and, if registering, a license plate under the Plate-to-Owner rule. The new title usually arrives by mail within a few weeks, while the registration is handed over the same day at a field office.
The seller’s side also closes out. Because the plate stays with the seller, the seller must move it to another vehicle of the same class or return it to a field office within 30 days. Doing this protects the seller from liability tied to the plate and from renewal notices on a vehicle they no longer own.
If a lien was involved, the title reflects the lienholder until the loan is satisfied and a release is filed. The MVD then issues a clear title once the lender confirms payoff. Until that happens, the vehicle cannot be sold again, because the form’s instructions require the buyer to title it before any resale.
Watch the deadlines after filing. New Mexico charges an excise tax penalty if the vehicle or vessel is not titled within 90 days, on top of the 30-day registration penalty. Renewal is the owner’s permanent responsibility, and missing the expiration date on the plate sticker brings its own penalty.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Small slips on this one-page form cause most rejections. Each mistake below has a direct consequence.
- Erasing or writing over an entry voids the entire document under the printed warning.
- Dropping or transposing a VIN digit prevents the MVD from matching the form to the title.
- Leaving the exact sale amount blank stops the excise-tax calculation and halts processing.
- Rounding the odometer reading or adding tenths conflicts with the dash and can suggest fraud.
- Forgetting the separate odometer-section signatures leaves the disclosure invalid.
- Missing a second seller’s signature on a jointly owned vehicle invalidates the transfer.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name breaks the title assignment chain.
- Leaving the plate on the car violates the Plate-to-Owner rule and exposes the seller to liability.
- Hiding an existing lien gets caught by the title check and stops the transfer.
- Skipping the date makes it impossible to prove the 30-day deadline was met.
- Checking the wrong odometer code, such as AM on a broken odometer, is a false certification.
- Waiting past 30 days to apply triggers a statutory penalty fee for the buyer.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s:
- Do use the official Rev. 05/13 form, because an off-brand copy may be refused.
- Do write in ink or type cleanly, since legible entries speed verification.
- Do copy the VIN and odometer exactly, because these are the fields most checked.
- Do have all owners sign, since joint ownership with and requires every signature.
- Do remove your plate as the seller, because the plate follows the owner, not the car.
- Do file within 30 days, because the penalty clock starts on the sale date.
Don’ts:
- Don’t erase or alter any field, because that voids the whole document.
- Don’t lowball the sale price, since the MVD can question a below-market figure.
- Don’t skip the odometer code, because each code carries legal weight.
- Don’t leave the lien block half-finished, since contradictory data delays the title.
- Don’t use a P.O. Box as your only residency proof, because the MVD needs in-state residency.
- Don’t forget the reverse-side instructions, since they govern inspections and penalties.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Many New Mexicans handle a private sale themselves, but a partner office or attorney can help in tricky cases. Weigh the trade-offs below.
Pros of filing on your own:
- You save the service fee a partner office charges, keeping more cash from the sale.
- You control the timing and can file the same day you sign.
- A simple in-state, lien-free sale is straightforward at a field office.
- You learn the process for future vehicle sales.
- You avoid sharing personal documents with a third party.
Cons of filing on your own:
- A single error can void the form and force a second trip.
- Lien payoffs and out-of-state titles add steps that are easy to miss.
- Field-office wait times can be long without an appointment.
- You bear full responsibility for deadlines and penalties.
- Mistakes on the title carry forward and cost more to fix later.
FAQs
Do I need to notarize the New Mexico bill of sale?
No. New Mexico does not require Form MVD-10009 to be notarized. Notarizing is optional, though some buyers and sellers add a notary or witness for extra protection in a high-value sale.
Is Form MVD-10009 always required to transfer a vehicle?
No. It is only required when the Certificate of Title is missing the price, odometer disclosure, or assignment signatures. A complete title can transfer without a separate bill of sale.
Do I write a gift as $0 or leave the sale amount blank?
No. Never leave the Exact Sale Amount blank. For a gift, enter a figure such as $0.00 or $1.00, because a blank stops the excise-tax step and the transfer.
Do I include tenths in the odometer reading?
No. The form says to record the mileage with no tenths. Write the whole-number reading exactly as shown on the dash to avoid any appearance of tampering.
Do both owners have to sign if the car is jointly owned?
Yes. If the title joins owners with and, both must sign the sale and the odometer lines. Owners joined by or may have one signer.
Do I check the AM box if my odometer is broken?
No. Check EL if the odometer rolled past its limit or NM if the reading is not accurate. Checking AM falsely is an illegal certification.
Do I leave the plate on the car for the buyer?
No. New Mexico uses Plate-to-Owner, so the seller removes the plate before delivery and has 30 days to transfer or return it.
Do I have to fill in the lienholder block?
No. Leave the lienholder fields blank if there is no loan. Complete them only when a lender holds a lien, since the title cannot clear otherwise.
Do I have a deadline to file the bill of sale?
Yes. Apply for transfer within 30 days of the sale to avoid the statutory penalty, and title within 90 days to avoid the excise-tax penalty.
Do out-of-state vehicles need anything extra?
Yes. A vehicle with an out-of-state or no prior title must be brought to an MVD field office for a visual VIN inspection before titling.
Do I use my nickname or my legal name in the name boxes?
No. Always use your full legal name as it appears on the title. A nickname breaks the assignment chain and can void the transfer.
Do dealers fill out the dealer license fields?
Yes. A licensed dealer must enter the dealership name and dealer license number. Private sellers leave those fields blank.
Do I sign the odometer section separately from the sale section?
Yes. The odometer disclosure has its own seller and buyer signature lines. Both must be signed in addition to the main sale signatures.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out a Title When Selling a Car (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Montana MVD Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the New Mexico MVD Application for Certificate of Title (Form MVD-10002) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out New Mexico MVD Application for Duplicate Title (Form MVD-10901) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the New Mexico MVD Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form MVD-10187) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out New Mexico MVD Vehicle Registration Application + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs