The Oregon DMV Bill of Sale (Form 735-501) is the one-page document that proves a vehicle changed hands between a seller and a buyer in Oregon. It is issued by the Oregon Department of Transportation, Driver and Motor Vehicle Services (DMV), and it records the vehicle, the price-free transfer of “all rights, title and interest,” and the date the seller releases the car.
This form matters because it locks in the exact day ownership moves. That single date starts two clocks at once: the seller’s 10-day notice deadline under ORS 803.112 and the buyer’s 30-day window to apply for a title before a late fee hits. Oregon DMV handles roughly 1.7 million title transactions a year, and a missing or sloppy bill of sale is one of the most common reasons a private-party transfer stalls at the counter.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📝 How to complete every line of Form 735-501 (4-25) the right way
- 🚗 Which documents you must gather before you ever pick up a pen
- ⏱️ The exact deadlines that trigger fees, tickets, and liability headaches
- 💡 Three full filled-out examples for the most common Oregon sale types
- ❓ Field-level FAQs that answer the questions that trip up first-timers
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Oregon Vehicle Bill of Sale is a short legal record that transfers ownership of a car, truck, motorcycle, trailer, or similar vehicle from one person to another. The official version is Form 735-501, and the revision date printed in the bottom corner reads 735-501 (4-25). Always confirm you have the 4-25 version, because older copies may not match current DMV processing rules. The form opens with the line “I transfer all rights, title and interest in the above-described vehicle to,” which is the legal heart of the document.
You should use this form any time you sell or give away a vehicle as a private party. Sellers use it to create proof of the release date so they are not blamed for tickets, tolls, or crashes that happen after the sale. Buyers use it to prove what they paid and when they took ownership, which protects them at the DMV counter and in any later dispute. Businesses and dealers also use it, and the form has a special seller line for a business name and an authorized representative’s signature.
The form ties together several moving parts. The agency that receives the related paperwork is Oregon DMV in Salem. The statute that drives the seller’s duty is ORS 803.112, which requires notice of sale within 10 days. The deadline that governs the buyer is 30 days from the date of purchase, after which a late title transfer fee applies. Each piece feeds the next: the bill of sale sets the date, the date starts both clocks, and the clocks decide who pays penalties.
One important note: the bill of sale itself is not mailed to DMV as a standalone filing. Instead, it supports the seller’s Notice of Sale and the buyer’s title application. Keep that distinction in mind, because many people wrongly believe they must “file” the bill of sale with the state.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you fill out a single line. Missing one item is the top reason a transfer drags on or gets rejected at the counter.
- The vehicle title. You need the actual Oregon Certificate of Title to release ownership; without it, the buyer cannot title the car and the sale stalls.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). This 17-character code must match the title and the dash plate exactly, because DMV cross-checks it and a mismatch triggers a hold.
- The license plate number. It identifies the vehicle on DMV records, and leaving it blank can slow the seller’s Notice of Sale.
- The title number. This number appears on the front of the title and links the form to the right DMV record.
- The year and make of the vehicle. These confirm you are describing the correct car, and an error here can route paperwork to the wrong file.
- Full legal names of buyer and seller. Names must match each party’s ID and the title, because DMV matches names to its database.
- Current mailing addresses. Both addresses are required so DMV can reach each party about taxes, recalls, or notices.
- The date of purchase and date of release. These dates start the 10-day and 30-day clocks, so an inaccurate date can cost real money.
- An odometer reading. Federal law requires odometer disclosure on the title for most vehicles under 20 years old, and the buyer needs it to title the car.
- A second piece of paper for two sellers. The form has two seller blocks for co-owners, so co-owned cars need both signatures.
Having blue or black ink ready also matters, because the form bans other ink colors. Gather the related forms too: the Notice of Sale, Form 735-6890, for the seller, and the Application for Title and Registration, Form 735-226, for the buyer.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The safest source is the official Oregon.gov copy. Download the fillable PDF of Form 735-501 here, which lets you type entries on screen before printing. You can also find it on the DMV Forms Home page by searching “Bill of Sale.” Using the official version protects you from outdated or altered third-party copies that may be missing the 4-25 fields.
You can complete the form in two ways. The first is to type your answers into the fillable PDF and print a clean copy, which reduces handwriting errors. The second is to print a blank form and fill it in by hand using blue or black ink only. Either way, you must sign in actual ink, because the form requires an original seller signature and bans photocopied signatures.
Pick up a paper copy in person at any Oregon DMV field office if you prefer. Some Oregon libraries and AAA branches also stock common DMV forms. Make two copies once it is signed: one for the buyer and one for the seller, since both parties need proof.
Print the form single-sided on plain white paper. Avoid shrinking it to fit, because a reduced form can crowd the signature lines and make entries hard to read at the counter.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form 735-501 Line by Line
The form is short, but every field carries weight. Fill in the vehicle description block first, then the buyer block, then the seller block. Use only blue or black ink, and never white out or strike through a name. Below is each field in the order it appears on the form.
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the unique code that identifies the exact vehicle being sold. Copy the VIN exactly as it appears on the Oregon title, character for character, with no spaces or dashes. For example, Maria Lopez writes 1HGCM82633A004352 in the VIN box for her Honda Accord. If the VIN on the title is hard to read, match it to the VIN plate on the dashboard or driver’s door jamb to be sure.
A common mistake is swapping the letter “O” for the number “0” or the letter “I” for the number “1,” which creates a VIN that does not match DMV records and freezes the transfer. People often believe any short “stock number” works here, but only the full 17-character VIN is valid for modern cars. Older vehicles may have shorter VINs, and that is fine as long as it matches the title.
“If the VIN begins with OR, check this box”
This checkbox flags vehicles whose VIN literally starts with the two letters “OR,” which are usually Oregon-assigned VINs for homemade, rebuilt, or assembled vehicles. Check the box only when those first two characters are the letters O and R. For example, Dan Pruitt checks the box because his custom trailer’s VIN reads OR48125. If your VIN starts with normal manufacturer characters, leave the box empty.
A common mistake is ignoring this box on an Oregon-assigned VIN, which can cause DMV to misread the VIN and reject the record. Filers often think the box means “this car is from Oregon,” but it only refers to the VIN’s first two letters. Checking it by accident on a standard VIN can also create confusion, so read the first two characters carefully.
Plate Number
This field asks for the license plate currently on the vehicle. Write the plate exactly as printed, including letters and numbers, with no extra spaces. For example, Maria Lopez writes 123ABC in the plate number box. If the car has no plates because they were lost or already removed, write NONE so the field is not left blank.
A common mistake is guessing the plate from memory and entering the wrong characters, which can slow the seller’s Notice of Sale. Many sellers think they must surrender plates to the buyer, but Oregon plates stay with the seller, who should remove them to avoid later tickets or towing charges. The buyer can get a 21-day trip permit from DMV to drive the car home.
Year
This field asks for the model year of the vehicle. Enter the four-digit year shown on the title, not the year you bought the car. For example, Maria Lopez writes 2012 for her Accord. The model year is set by the manufacturer and printed on the title, so always copy it from there.
A common mistake is entering the purchase year instead of the model year, which makes the form mismatch the title. Some filers confuse the model year with the registration sticker year, but those are different. When in doubt, the year on the front of the title controls.
Make
This field asks for the brand of the vehicle. Write the make as it reads on the title, such as HONDA, FORD, or TOYOTA. For example, Maria Lopez writes HONDA in the make box. Use the manufacturer name, not the model name like “Accord” or “F-150.”
A common mistake is writing the model instead of the make, which can route the paperwork to the wrong record. People sometimes write a trim level or nickname, but DMV only wants the manufacturer name. Keep it simple and match the title.
Title Number
This field asks for the number printed on the Oregon Certificate of Title. Copy it exactly from the front of the title document. For example, Maria Lopez writes 0123456789 in the title number box. The number links this bill of sale to the correct DMV title record.
A common mistake is leaving this blank because the seller cannot find the title, which delays the buyer’s title application. Filers sometimes confuse the title number with the VIN, but they are different numbers in different spots on the title. If the title is lost, the seller should apply for a replacement before selling.
Printed Name of Buyer (Last, First, Middle)
This field asks for the buyer’s full legal name in a specific order. Write the last name first, then first name, then middle name, matching the buyer’s ID. For example, Lopez, Maria Elena goes in the buyer name box. Follow the last-first-middle order printed on the form, because reversing it can cause a name mismatch.
A common mistake is writing the name in normal first-last order, which confuses DMV’s name matching and can hold up titling. Buyers sometimes use a nickname or shortened name, but only the legal name on the ID is valid. For a married buyer using a new last name, use the name exactly as it appears on the current driver license.
Date of Purchase
This field asks for the day the buyer takes ownership. Enter the date in MM/DD/YYYY format, such as 06/05/2026. This date is critical because it starts the buyer’s 30-day clock to apply for a title before a late fee applies. Use the true day money and keys changed hands.
A common mistake is backdating or guessing the date, which can wrongly expose the buyer to a late title transfer fee or hide one. Some people think the purchase date and the seller’s release date can differ widely, but they should match the real transfer day. An inaccurate date here is one of the costliest errors on the form.
Buyer’s Address
This field asks for the buyer’s current mailing address. Write the full street address, city, state, and ZIP code. For example, 742 SE Oak St, Portland, OR 97214. DMV uses this address for title mailing and future notices.
A common mistake is listing an old address, which can send the new title to the wrong place. If the buyer uses a P.O. Box for mail, list both the physical address and the P.O. Box where allowed, because DMV needs a residence on record. An incomplete address can delay delivery of the title.
Printed Name of Seller (Business Name If Seller Is a Business)
This field asks for the seller’s name, or the business name if a company is selling the car. A private seller writes their full legal name; a dealer or business writes the registered business name. For example, Sunset Auto Sales LLC writes its business name here. This line tells DMV exactly who released the vehicle.
A common mistake is a business writing an employee’s personal name instead of the company name, which breaks the chain of ownership. People sometimes think any household member can sign, but the named seller must be the person or entity on the title. For co-owners, each owner’s name goes in their own seller block.
Signature of Seller (Authorized Representative of Business)
This field is where the seller signs to release ownership. The seller signs in ink on the line marked with an X, and a business signer must be an authorized representative. For example, Marcus Reed signs as manager for Sunset Auto Sales LLC. The signature must be the original seller’s, because photocopied signatures are not accepted.
A common mistake is signing in pencil or a non-standard ink color, which voids the form. Sellers sometimes let someone else sign for them without authority, which can be treated as fraud. Always sign with the same name printed above and use blue or black ink.
Printed Name of Seller (Second Seller)
This second printed-name field exists for a co-owner or second seller. If the title lists two owners, the second owner prints their full legal name here. For example, David Lopez prints his name as the co-owner of the family car. Use this block only when there are two sellers on the title.
A common mistake is leaving this blank on a co-owned vehicle, which can stop the transfer because both owners must release the car. Filers sometimes assume one spouse can release a jointly titled car alone, but DMV usually needs both signatures unless the title shows “or” between the names. Check how the names are joined on the title to know if both must sign.
Date of Release and Signature of Seller (Second Seller)
This field captures the day the seller gives up the vehicle and the second seller’s signature. Enter the release date in MM/DD/YYYY format and have the second seller sign in ink on the X line. For example, David Lopez signs and dates 06/05/2026. The release date should match the purchase date the buyer entered.
A common mistake is a release date that does not match the purchase date, which creates a gap in the ownership record. People often forget the second signature line entirely, leaving a co-owned sale incomplete. Both dates and both signatures must be present for a two-owner vehicle.
Seller’s Address and Final Date of Release
This field asks for the seller’s mailing address and the final release date. Write the seller’s full street address, city, state, and ZIP, then confirm the release date in MM/DD/YYYY format. For example, Sunset Auto Sales LLC writes 1500 NE Broadway, Portland, OR 97232 and dates the release 06/05/2026. This address lets DMV match the seller to its records and reach them if needed.
A common mistake is leaving the seller address blank, which can complicate the seller’s Notice of Sale. Sellers sometimes use a work address that does not match the title, creating a mismatch. Keep the seller address consistent with DMV records and double-check the final date.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three full walkthroughs for the most common Oregon sale types. Each follows one named person through the key fields of Form 735-501.
Scenario 1: Private Sale to an Individual
Maria Lopez sells her 2012 Honda Accord to her neighbor for $7,500 in a straightforward private deal.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| VIN | 1HGCM82633A004352 |
| VIN begins with OR box | Left unchecked |
| Plate Number | 123ABC |
| Year | 2012 |
| Make | HONDA |
| Title Number | 0123456789 |
| Printed Name of Buyer | Nguyen, Anh Thi |
| Date of Purchase | 06/05/2026 |
| Buyer’s Address | 742 SE Oak St, Portland, OR 97214 |
| Printed Name of Seller | Maria Elena Lopez |
| Signature of Seller | Maria signs in blue ink |
| Date of Release | 06/05/2026 |
Scenario 2: Family Gift Transfer for $1
Robert Carson gives his 2015 Toyota Tacoma to his daughter as a graduation gift, recording a nominal $1 transfer.
| Form Section | What Robert Enters |
|---|---|
| VIN | 5TFUX4EN9FX033218 |
| VIN begins with OR box | Left unchecked |
| Plate Number | 987XYZ |
| Year | 2015 |
| Make | TOYOTA |
| Title Number | 9988776655 |
| Printed Name of Buyer | Carson, Emily Rose |
| Date of Purchase | 06/05/2026 |
| Buyer’s Address | 2200 NW 23rd Ave, Portland, OR 97210 |
| Printed Name of Seller | Robert James Carson |
| Signature of Seller | Robert signs in black ink |
| Date of Release | 06/05/2026 |
Scenario 3: Business or Dealer Sale
Sunset Auto Sales LLC sells a 2019 Ford F-150 to a retail buyer, and manager Marcus Reed signs as the authorized representative.
| Form Section | What Sunset Auto Enters |
|---|---|
| VIN | 1FTEW1E50KFA12345 |
| VIN begins with OR box | Left unchecked |
| Plate Number | DLR4421 |
| Year | 2019 |
| Make | FORD |
| Title Number | 4455667788 |
| Printed Name of Buyer | Okafor, Daniel Chike |
| Date of Purchase | 06/05/2026 |
| Buyer’s Address | 55 SW Market St, Portland, OR 97201 |
| Printed Name of Seller (Business) | Sunset Auto Sales LLC |
| Signature of Seller | Marcus Reed signs as manager |
| Date of Release | 06/05/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
The bill of sale itself is not mailed to DMV, but it powers two filings. The seller files a Notice of Sale, and the buyer files a title application. Below is every channel for each.
For the seller’s Notice of Sale, the fastest option is online. Log in to the DMV2U online portal and submit the notice for free, then save the confirmation screen as your proof. By mail, send a completed Form 735-6890 to DMV, 1905 Lana Ave NE, Salem, OR 97314, with no fee, and keep a copy plus the mailing receipt; allow one to two weeks for processing. In person, drop the notice at any DMV field office at no charge and ask for a stamped copy as proof.
For the buyer’s title application, file Form 735-226 with the signed title and bill of sale. By mail or in person, the title fee for most passenger vehicles and trucks under 26,000 pounds GVWR is $240 for transactions on or after December 31, 2025, after the House Bill 3991 fee increase. All-electric vehicles pay $331, and the figure rises with higher fuel-economy surcharges. DMV accepts checks and money orders by mail, and cards or cash in person; processing the mailed title can take several weeks, so keep your receipt as proof.
Whichever channel you use, hold onto your signed bill of sale. It is your primary proof of the sale date if any question comes up later.
What Happens After You File
After the seller submits the Notice of Sale, DMV updates its records to show the vehicle is no longer the seller’s responsibility. This protects the seller from tickets, tolls, abandoned-vehicle charges, and crash liability tied to the car after the release date. The seller should still keep the bill of sale and the notice confirmation for at least a few years.
After the buyer files the title application, DMV reviews the paperwork and issues a new Certificate of Title in the buyer’s name. The printed title usually arrives by mail in a few weeks, and registration and plates are handled in the same transaction. If anything is missing, such as a signature or the odometer reading, DMV mails a notice asking the buyer to fix it, which delays the title.
The date of purchase governs the buyer’s late-fee exposure. If the buyer applies more than 30 days after the sale, the late title transfer fee is $25 from day 31 through day 60 and $50 after that. These penalties stack on top of the regular title fee, so filing on time saves money.
Keep proof of everything. A clean bill of sale, a notice confirmation, and a title receipt together form a complete record that resolves most future disputes quickly.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Using the wrong ink color. The form requires blue or black ink only, and other colors can void the document.
- Whiting out or striking through a name. This is banned on the form, and doing it can force you to start over with a fresh form.
- Using a photocopied signature. Only an original seller signature is accepted, so a copied signature stalls the transfer.
- Entering a mismatched VIN. A single wrong character freezes the DMV record until corrected.
- Forgetting the second seller’s signature. A co-owned car needs both owners to sign, or the release is incomplete.
- Backdating the date of purchase. A false date can wrongly trigger or hide a late title transfer fee.
- Leaving the title number blank. Without it, DMV cannot link the form to the right record, delaying titling.
- Writing the model instead of the make. This routes the paperwork to the wrong vehicle profile.
- Skipping the seller’s Notice of Sale. Missing the 10-day notice leaves the seller liable for tickets and tolls.
- Ignoring the 30-day title deadline. Filing late adds a $25 or $50 penalty to the buyer’s bill.
- Listing an outdated address. A wrong address can send the new title to the wrong location.
- Checking the OR-VIN box by mistake. Marking it on a standard VIN can confuse DMV’s record.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do use the official 4-25 version of Form 735-501, because outdated copies may miss required fields.
- Do copy the VIN, plate, and title number straight from the title, since matching records prevent holds.
- Do sign in original blue or black ink, because the form rejects copies and other colors.
- Do make a copy for both buyer and seller, so each party has proof of the sale.
- Do submit the seller’s Notice of Sale within 10 days, to cut off the seller’s liability fast.
- Do apply for the title within 30 days, to dodge the late title transfer fee.
Don’ts
- Don’t white out or strike through any name, because it voids the form.
- Don’t leave the date of purchase blank or wrong, since it controls the late-fee clock.
- Don’t let an unauthorized person sign for a business, as it can be treated as fraud.
- Don’t surrender your plates to the buyer, because Oregon plates stay with the seller.
- Don’t skip the second seller block on a co-owned car, or the release fails.
- Don’t rely on the bill of sale alone to transfer the title, since the signed title is also required.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
| Filing on Your Own | Filing With Professional Help |
|---|---|
| Free, because you avoid service fees, which keeps costs to the DMV fee only | Costs extra, since a service or dealer charges a fee for handling paperwork |
| Full control, so you confirm every field is right before signing | Less hands-on, because someone else handles the entries for you |
| Fast for simple sales, since a basic private sale takes minutes | Helpful for complex sales, such as liens, out-of-state titles, or estates |
| Builds your own records, because you keep every original document | Saves time, since the helper navigates DMV steps and deadlines |
| Risk of errors, as a missed signature or wrong VIN can cause delays | Lower error risk, because experienced helpers catch common mistakes |
FAQs
Do I have to file the bill of sale with the Oregon DMV?
No. You do not mail Form 735-501 to DMV by itself. It supports the seller’s Notice of Sale and the buyer’s title application, and both parties should keep a signed copy.
Is an Oregon vehicle bill of sale required by law?
No. Oregon does not strictly require Form 735-501 for every sale, but it is strongly recommended because it proves the sale date and protects both buyer and seller.
Do I write my name first or last in the buyer name box?
No. Do not write first name first. The buyer field asks for Last, First, Middle order, so follow that exact sequence to avoid a DMV name mismatch.
Do I check the “VIN begins with OR” box for any Oregon car?
No. Only check it when the VIN’s first two characters are literally the letters O and R, which signals an Oregon-assigned VIN, not just any Oregon vehicle.
Does the date of purchase have to match the date of release?
Yes. Both should reflect the true day ownership transferred, because that single date starts the seller’s 10-day and the buyer’s 30-day deadlines.
Can I use a photocopied signature on the form?
No. The form requires an original seller signature in ink. Photocopied or stamped signatures are not accepted and will stall the transfer.
Do both owners need to sign a co-owned vehicle?
Yes. If the title lists two owners joined by “and,” both must sign their own seller block. Check how the names are joined to confirm.
Can a business sign the seller line?
Yes. A business writes its registered name and has an authorized representative sign on the seller signature line marked with an X.
What ink color must I use on the form?
No other color is allowed. Use only blue or black ink, and never white out or strike through any name on the form.
Do I keep my license plates when I sell?
Yes. Oregon plates stay with the seller. Remove them to avoid later tickets or towing charges, and the buyer can get a 21-day trip permit.
Is there a fee to submit the seller’s Notice of Sale?
No. Filing the Notice of Sale online, by mail, or in person is free. The title application the buyer files later does carry a fee.
What happens if the buyer titles the car late?
Yes, a penalty applies. A late title transfer fee of $25 hits from day 31 to 60 after the sale, and $50 after day 60, on top of the title fee.
Do I need an odometer reading on the bill of sale?
No, the odometer reading goes on the title, not the bill of sale, but federal law requires the disclosure for most vehicles under 20 years old.
Can I fill out the form online before printing?
Yes. The official Oregon.gov PDF is fillable, so you can type entries on screen, then print and sign in ink to keep it valid.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Nevada DMV Bill of Sale (VP-104) (w/ Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Oregon DMV Application for Replacement Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Oregon DMV Application for Title and Registration (Form 735-226) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Idaho ITD Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Vermont DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Wyoming DOT Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs