The South Dakota Application for a Duplicate Certificate of Title (Form MV-010, also coded SD EForm-0863) is the one-page form a vehicle or boat owner files when the original title is lost, stolen, destroyed, mutilated, illegible, or never received. You file it with your local County Treasurer’s Office or mail it to the Division of Motor Vehicles Duplicate Title Section in Pierre, along with a flat $10 fee. The current version is MV-010 (2/13), so check that revision code in the bottom corner before you start to be sure you have the right one.
Losing a title feels stressful, mostly because you usually need it right when life is moving fast — a sale, a move, an estate, or an insurance claim. The good news is this is one of the simpler state forms, and a careful, correct filing is rarely rejected. The single biggest reason these applications bounce back is a missing notary seal, because South Dakota law treats this as a sworn statement under SDCL Chapter 32-3. Get the notary part right and you are most of the way home.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 🧾 Exactly what each box on Form MV-010 asks and how to answer it
- 🖊️ Why the notary block can void your whole application and how to avoid that
- 🚗 How to handle a title that still has a lien, plus the new electronic-title rule
- 📬 Every way to file — in person, by mail — with addresses, fees, and timing
- ❓ Twelve plain-answer FAQs that solve the questions filers ask most
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
Form MV-010 is the official request that asks the South Dakota Division of Motor Vehicles to issue a replacement certificate of title for a vehicle or boat that already has a title on record in the state. The certificate of title is the legal document that proves who owns the vehicle. Without it, you cannot sell the vehicle, transfer it, or in many cases register it in a new state. So this form exists to restore that proof of ownership when the paper copy is gone.
You must file this form if you are the owner of record — the person or business whose name appears on the South Dakota title — and the original title is no longer usable. The form itself lists the only accepted reasons: the title was Lost, Stolen, Destroyed, Mutilated, Illegible, or Never Received. If you bought a vehicle and the seller never handed you the title, that falls under “never received,” but the title must still be in the seller’s name on record, which often means the seller is the one who must apply.
The agency that receives and processes the form is the Division of Motor Vehicles within the South Dakota Department of Revenue. Local County Treasurer offices act as the front counter and forward applications to the state. The law behind all of this lives in SDCL Chapter 32-3, the state’s motor vehicle title chapter, which gives the Department authority to issue duplicate titles and sets the rules for who may request one. Boats are covered too, since South Dakota titles vessels under the same system, which is why the form asks for a HIN as well as a VIN.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form. The application is short, but missing one item can cost you a second trip to the notary or a mailed-back packet. Here is your pre-filing checklist:
- The vehicle or boat title number, if you have any old paperwork showing it; it speeds matching your record, and without it the state must search by VIN, which can slow things down.
- The full VIN (vehicle) or HIN (boat), because this is how the DMV confirms the exact vehicle; a wrong digit can pull the wrong record or stall the request.
- Your driver’s license number or Social Security number, since the form asks for the owner’s SDDL# or SSN# to verify identity; leaving it blank invites a processing hold.
- The owner name exactly as it appears on the title, because a mismatch (nickname, maiden name, missing middle initial) can trigger a rejection.
- The current odometer reading, required on vehicles 9 years old or newer or with a gross weight of 16,000 lbs. or less; a missing reading on a covered vehicle voids the disclosure.
- Lien release or lienholder contact, if a lien shows on the record, because the lienholder must sign Section B or supply a release before a paper title can issue.
- The $10 fee in an accepted form of payment, since the application will not process without it.
- A valid government photo ID for the notary, because the notary must confirm who you are before applying the seal.
- A copy of any power of attorney, if you are signing for the owner, because the form requires that copy to be attached.
If you are missing the title number, do not panic — the VIN or HIN is enough for the state to find your record. The item you cannot skip is the notary, so plan to sign the form last, in front of a notary, not at your kitchen table.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can download Form MV-010 directly from the state’s motor vehicle forms and resources pages, or pick up a paper copy at any County Treasurer’s Office. The form is a single page coded SD EForm-0863 with the form number MV-010 (2/13) printed in the lower corner. Many county treasurer websites, such as those in Minnehaha County (Sioux Falls) and Pennington County (Rapid City), also host a copy for download.
The form is a fillable PDF, which means you can type your answers on a computer and then print it. That is the cleanest path, because typed entries avoid the handwriting errors that cause record mismatches. There is a “PRINT FOR MAILING” button at the bottom of the PDF and a “CLEAR FORM” button if you need to start over.
One key point about access: do not sign the form when you fill it in at home. The application is invalid unless it is signed in front of a notary public and carries the notary’s seal. So fill in every box, leave the signature line blank, and bring the unsigned form to a notary or a DMV agent. Banks, county offices, shipping stores, and many insurance agents offer notary service, often free or for a few dollars.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form MV-010 Line by Line
The form is divided into three lettered parts: Section A (vehicle, owner, and mailing details), Section B (lienholder approval), and Section C (the sworn certification and notary block). Work through them in order. Below, each field gets its own walkthrough.
Section A — Date of Application
This top field asks for the date you complete the form. Write the date you actually sign in front of the notary, using the MM/DD/YYYY format, such as 06/06/2026. Because the notary block lower down also records a sworn date, the two should match or be close, so it is best to date the form the same day you visit the notary.
A common edge case is filling out the form days before you can reach a notary. In that case, leave the date blank at home and write it in at the notary’s desk so it lines up with the sworn date. The most common mistake here is dating the form with a future date or a date weeks before notarization, which makes the sworn statement look inconsistent and can draw a question from the clerk. Some filers think this date is the date they lost the title — it is not; it is simply the date you are applying.
Section A — Odometer Reading and Mileage Statement
This field asks for the vehicle’s current mileage and how to classify it. Enter the number from the odometer, then check miles or kilometers (almost always miles in the U.S.). For example, 87,420 miles for a daily-driver sedan. Leave the mileage box reading as the true number on the dash.
Below the number are two warning boxes: one for “Stated mileage exceeds odometer’s mechanical limits” (the odometer rolled over past its digit limit) and one for “Stated mileage is not the actual mileage — WARNING-ODOMETER DISCREPANCY.” Check a box only if it applies; if the reading is true and accurate, leave both blank, which means you are declaring actual mileage. A nuance many filers miss: this field is required only on vehicles 9 years old or newer, or with a gross vehicle weight of 16,000 lbs. or less — older or heavier vehicles can be left blank. The common mistake is guessing or rounding the mileage on a covered vehicle, which creates a false odometer disclosure and can complicate a future sale. The misconception here is that mileage does not matter on a duplicate title; in fact federal odometer rules attach to title documents, so accuracy counts.
Section A — Vehicle or Boat Title Number
This box asks for the number printed on the original certificate of title. If you still have a photo, an old registration, or any paperwork showing it, copy the title number here exactly. For instance, owner Dale Hutchins finds his old title number on a glovebox copy and writes it in.
If you cannot find the title number — which is common when the title is lost — leave it blank and rely on the VIN/HIN below, because the DMV can locate your record either way. The common mistake is inventing or guessing a number; a wrong title number can match a different record and delay processing. People often believe this field is mandatory, but it is not; the serial number does the real identifying work.
Section A — Serial Number (VIN or HIN)
This field asks for the full Vehicle Identification Number for a car or truck, or the Hull Identification Number for a boat. Copy all 17 characters of a modern VIN carefully, double-checking the look-alike characters. For example, 1HGCM82633A004352. For a boat, enter the HIN stamped on the transom, such as ABC12345D404.
The VIN appears on the dashboard at the base of the windshield, on the driver’s door jamb, and on your insurance card and registration, so cross-check at least two sources. A nuance: South Dakota does not use the letters I, O, or Q in VINs, so if you “see” one, it is almost certainly a 1 or a 0. The common mistake is transposing a single character, which pulls the wrong vehicle or no match at all and bounces the application. A frequent misconception is that the license plate number works here — it does not; only the VIN or HIN identifies the vehicle for titling.
Section A — Make, Model/Length, Body Type, Year, Weight
This group of small boxes asks for the basic description of the vehicle or boat. Enter the Make (such as Toyota), the Model/Length (model name for a vehicle like Camry, or overall length in feet for a boat like 18 ft), the Body Type (such as 4-door sedan or pickup), the Year (such as 2014), and the Weight if known. Match these to your registration so they line up with the state record.
For a boat, “Model/Length” is where the vessel’s length goes, which trips up first-time boat filers who try to write a model name. A nuance: if you are unsure of the exact body type, use the description on your registration card rather than guessing. The common mistake is leaving the year blank, which slows record matching since the DMV uses year plus VIN to confirm. The misconception is that these fields must be perfect to the letter; they help confirm the record, but the VIN is the controlling identifier, so reasonable accuracy is fine.
Section A — Owner / Owner’s Name as It Appears on Title
This field asks for the owner’s name written exactly as it appears on the existing title. Copy it character for character, including middle initials and the order of names. For example, if the title reads Margaret A. Olson, write Margaret A. Olson, not Maggie Olson.
If the vehicle is owned jointly, list both owners’ names as titled, because both may need to sign in Section C. A nuance: if your legal name has changed since the title was issued (marriage, divorce, court order), you still write the name as it currently appears on the title, and handle the name change separately. The common mistake is using a current or preferred name that does not match the record, which creates a verification hold. The misconception is that the DMV will “know it’s you” from your license — the system matches the titled name, so it must agree.
Section A — Owner’s SDDL# or SSN
This field asks for the owner’s South Dakota Driver’s License number or Social Security number, used to verify identity against the state record. Enter one of the two; for example, a driver’s license number like 12345678 or your SSN if you have no SD license. Use the number that ties to the owner of record.
For a business-owned vehicle, the entity’s FEIN typically goes here in place of an SSN. A nuance: if there are two owners, the state generally wants the primary owner’s number, though listing both is safe. The common mistake is leaving this blank, which removes the DMV’s quickest way to confirm you are the owner and stalls the file. The misconception is that this is optional for privacy reasons — it is a required identifier, and the application is a sworn document handled under state record rules.
Section A — Owner’s Current Mailing Address (City, State, Zip)
This block asks where you live now and where the title should normally be sent. Enter your current mailing address, city, state, and ZIP, such as 512 W Oak St, Brookings, SD 57006. Make sure it is an address where you can reliably receive mail.
If you use a P.O. Box, that is acceptable for the mailing address as long as it is yours. A nuance: if you have moved since the title was issued, use your new address here so the duplicate reaches you, since the state will mail the title to this address unless you complete the special mailing block. The common mistake is listing the old address from the original title, which can send your new title to a place you no longer control. The misconception is that the DMV automatically has your latest address — it mails to what you write on this form.
Section A — Special Mailing Name and Address
This optional block tells the DMV to send the finished title to someone other than the owner, such as a dealer, a lender, or a family member helping with a sale. Fill it in only if you want the title delivered elsewhere; enter that party’s name, address, city, state, and ZIP. For example, ABC Auto Sales, 200 Main Ave, Sioux Falls, SD 57104.
If the owner wants the title in hand personally, leave this block blank and the title goes to the owner’s mailing address. A nuance: the form’s instructions state that if the title is to be mailed to someone other than the owner, those instructions must be indicated here — verbal requests do not count. The common mistake is assuming a dealer will get the title automatically; without this block, it ships to the owner. The misconception is that filling this in transfers ownership — it does not; it only redirects the mail.
Section B — Lienholder Section (Complete Only If a Lien Is Shown)
Section B applies only if the title record shows a lien — usually a bank or finance company that loaned money on the vehicle. If there is no lien, skip this entire section. If there is a lien, you must either attach a lien release or have the lienholder complete and sign Section B to approve your duplicate.
Inside Section B, first comes a set of checkboxes that you mark only if you want a printed paper title despite the lien: Moving to another state, Insurance Claim/Total loss, Court Order, Name: Change, Addition or Deletion of Owner, or Other (must be approved by DMV). This is the field people get wrong most often, because the form warns in bold: if none of those reasons apply, the duplicate title with a lien will be issued ELECTRONICALLY and no paper title will be generated. So if you genuinely need paper — say lender First Dakota Bank is releasing the car for an out-of-state move — check “Moving to another state.” The common mistake is checking none of the boxes while expecting paper in the mail, then being surprised when only an electronic title exists. The misconception is that paying off the loan automatically clears Section B — it does not unless the lienholder files a release or signs here.
Section B — Lienholder Signature, Name, and Address
These lines capture the lienholder’s written approval. The lienholder (line 1, and line 2 if there is a second lien) signs, then prints the Lienholder Name and Lienholder Address. By signing, the lienholder grants approval for the owner to obtain a duplicate, and the lien will still appear on the new title unless a separate release is attached. For example, an officer at Wells Fargo Auto signs and prints the bank’s payoff-department address.
A nuance: a formal lien release letter on the lienholder’s letterhead can replace these signatures, which is often easier than chasing a signature in person. The common mistake is the owner signing on the lienholder line — only the lender may sign Section B. The misconception is that an old, paid-off lien just disappears; if it still shows on the record, it must be cleared through a release or this signature before a clean paper title can issue.
Section C — Applicant Certification and Signature
Section C is the heart of the form — a sworn statement. By signing, you certify the information is true, that you have not transferred the vehicle or boat to a new owner (or, if you have, that you are applying on the new owner’s behalf), and that the original title was Lost, Stolen, Destroyed, Mutilated, Illegible, or Never Received. Sign on the Signature(s) of Applicant/Owners line; if the title lists two owners, both generally must sign.
Do not sign this line until you are in front of the notary. For example, owner Dale Hutchins waits, then signs as the notary watches. A nuance: if you hold power of attorney for the owner, you sign in that capacity and attach a copy of the POA, keeping the original for later use. The common mistake is signing at home, which the notary cannot then witness, forcing you to redo the form. The misconception is that this is a routine signature — it is a sworn certification, and a false statement here is a serious matter under state law.
Section C — Notary Block (Subscribed and Sworn / Notary Signature and Seal)
This final block is where the notary makes the form valid. The notary fills in “Subscribed and sworn before me this ___ day of , 20,” records “My commission expires,” signs as Notary Public, and affixes the seal. You do not complete these lines yourself — the notary does, after watching you sign Section C.
A nuance: a DMV agent at the County Treasurer’s Office can perform this step in place of an outside notary, which is convenient if you are filing in person anyway. The form states in bold that the application is INVALID unless properly notarized by a notary or DMV agent, so the seal is not optional. The single most common reason these forms get rejected is a missing or smudged notary seal, which means a wasted trip and a redo. The misconception is that any signature makes it official — only the notarized, sealed form is accepted.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common situations, each following one named filer through the key parts of Form MV-010.
Scenario 1 — Lost title, no lien (Dale Hutchins, 2014 Camry). Dale paid off his car years ago and cannot find the title before selling it.
| Form Section | What Dale Enters |
|---|---|
| Date of Application | 06/06/2026 |
| Odometer Reading | 112,300 miles, no warning box checked |
| Title Number | Left blank (cannot find it) |
| Serial Number (VIN) | 4T1BF1FK5EU000111 |
| Make / Model / Year | Toyota / Camry / 2014 |
| Owner Name as Titled | Dale R. Hutchins |
| SDDL# or SSN# | SD DL 03344556 |
| Section B (Lien) | Skipped — no lien on record |
| Section C Signature | Signed in front of notary; reason: Lost |
Scenario 2 — Title with an active lien, moving out of state (Priya Anand, 2022 pickup). Priya still owes on her truck and is moving to Minnesota, so she needs a paper title to register there.
| Form Section | What Priya Enters |
|---|---|
| Date of Application | 06/06/2026 |
| Odometer Reading | 38,905 miles, no warning box checked |
| Serial Number (VIN) | 1FTFW1E58NF000222 |
| Make / Model / Year | Ford / F-150 / 2022 |
| Owner Name as Titled | Priya Anand |
| Section B Paper-Title Box | Checks Moving to another state |
| Section B Lienholder | First Dakota Bank signs and prints address |
| Section C Signature | Signed before notary; reason: Lost |
| Fee | $10 paid to County Treasurer |
Scenario 3 — Signing under power of attorney (Marcus Webb for his mother, Eleanor Webb). Eleanor is in care and cannot travel, and Marcus holds her power of attorney to manage her boat’s title.
| Form Section | What Marcus Enters |
|---|---|
| Date of Application | 06/06/2026 |
| Model/Length (boat) | 19 ft |
| Serial Number (HIN) | USA12345C323 |
| Make / Year | Lund / 2019 |
| Owner Name as Titled | Eleanor M. Webb |
| Owner SDDL# or SSN# | Eleanor’s SD DL number |
| Special Mailing | Marcus Webb, his home address |
| Section C Signature | Marcus Webb, POA for Eleanor Webb |
| Attachment | Copy of power of attorney included |
How to File the Completed Form
South Dakota gives you two filing channels for Form MV-010. Pick whichever fits your timeline.
File in person at your County Treasurer’s Office. Bring the completed form, your photo ID, and the $10 fee. A real advantage here is that a DMV agent can often notarize the form on the spot, so you can fill it in (unsigned), sign at the counter, and pay in one visit. Counties accept cash and check; many also take debit or credit cards, sometimes with a small processing surcharge. Find your office through the Department of Revenue county directory, and keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing.
File by mail to the state. Mail the notarized form and the $10 fee (a check or money order payable to the Division of Motor Vehicles is safest by mail) to: Division of Motor Vehicles, Duplicate Title Section, 445 E. Capitol Avenue, Pierre, SD 57501-3185. Because the form must already be notarized, you must visit a notary before mailing. Send it with tracking if you want confirmation of delivery, and photocopy the completed form before it leaves your hands so you have a record of exactly what you submitted.
A note on online filing: South Dakota’s online vehicle portal handles renewals and many records tasks, but a duplicate title requires the notarized MV-010, so most owners cannot complete the entire duplicate request fully online. Plan for at least one in-person step — the notary — no matter which channel you choose. Processing times vary, but mailed duplicate titles commonly take a couple of weeks once the state receives a clean application.
What Happens After You File
Once the Division of Motor Vehicles accepts your application and fee, it cancels the old title in its system and prepares the replacement. For a clean, lien-free vehicle, the state prints and mails a paper duplicate certificate of title to the owner’s mailing address — or to the special mailing party if you completed that block. This typically arrives within about two to three weeks, though busy periods can run longer.
If your title carries a lien and you did not check one of the paper-title reasons in Section B, the duplicate is issued electronically, and no paper title is mailed at all. The electronic record sits with the lienholder until the loan is paid and the lien is released, at which point a paper title can be requested. This catches people off guard, so it is worth repeating: a lien plus no checked reason equals an electronic title only.
Keep your filing receipt or mailing confirmation until the title arrives. If several weeks pass with nothing, contact your County Treasurer or the Duplicate Title Section in Pierre and reference your VIN. Once the new title arrives, store it somewhere safe and separate from the vehicle, because the moment you have a fresh duplicate, the old lost title — if it ever surfaces — is void and cannot be used.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Signing before you reach the notary. The notary cannot witness a signature already on the page, so the form is invalid and must be redone.
- Skipping the notary seal entirely. Without the seal the application is rejected outright, costing you a full trip and resubmission.
- Guessing the VIN or HIN. One wrong character pulls the wrong record or no match, stalling the whole request.
- Using a nickname instead of the titled name. A name mismatch triggers an identity hold while the DMV verifies ownership.
- Listing the old address from the original title. Your new title can be mailed to a place you no longer control and get lost.
- Leaving the SDDL#/SSN# blank. This removes the fastest way to confirm you are the owner and delays processing.
- Ignoring Section B when a lien exists. A duplicate cannot issue without a lien release or the lienholder’s signature.
- Checking no paper-title box on a lien title. You will receive only an electronic title and no paper copy, surprising you later.
- Forgetting the odometer on a covered vehicle. A missing reading on a vehicle 9 years old or newer voids the disclosure.
- Omitting the power-of-attorney copy. If you sign for someone else without attaching the POA, the form is incomplete.
- Sending cash by mail. Loose cash can go missing; a check or money order is traceable and safer.
- Forgetting to keep a copy. With no record of what you sent, you cannot prove or reconstruct your filing.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Do fill in every box, then sign last in front of a notary, because the seal is what makes the form valid.
- Do copy the owner name and VIN exactly from the title, because the DMV matches these to your record.
- Do keep a photocopy of the finished form, because it is your only proof of what you submitted.
- Do check a Section B reason if you truly need paper on a lien title, because otherwise you get only an electronic title.
- Do use your current address, because the state mails the new title to whatever you write.
- Do attach a power-of-attorney copy when signing for someone else, because the form requires it.
Don’t:
- Don’t sign at home, because an un-witnessed signature forces a complete redo.
- Don’t guess at mileage on a covered vehicle, because that creates a false odometer disclosure.
- Don’t invent a title number you cannot find, because a wrong number can match the wrong vehicle.
- Don’t mail cash, because it is untraceable if it goes missing.
- Don’t leave Section B blank when a lien shows, because the application cannot be approved.
- Don’t assume the title goes to a dealer automatically, because you must use the special mailing block.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most owners file Form MV-010 themselves, but a dealer, title service, or attorney can do it for you. Here is how the two paths compare.
Pros of filing yourself:
- You save service fees and pay only the $10 state fee, because there is no middleman.
- You control accuracy, since you know your own name, address, and VIN best.
- In-person filing lets a DMV agent notarize and accept the form in one visit, saving time.
- It is genuinely simple — one page — so most people finish it quickly.
- You keep direct contact with the County Treasurer if a question comes up.
Cons of filing yourself:
- You must arrange your own notary, which is an extra errand.
- Lien situations can get confusing, and a wrong Section B choice means an electronic-only title.
- A small VIN or name error you miss can bounce the application back to you.
- Mailed filings give you no instant confirmation unless you add tracking.
- If you sign for someone else, you must understand power-of-attorney rules yourself.
FAQs
Do I need to get this form notarized?
Yes. The application is invalid unless you sign it in front of a notary public or DMV agent who affixes a seal. This is the most common reason filings are rejected.
How much does a South Dakota duplicate title cost?
Yes, there is a fee — a flat $10.00 payable to the County Treasurer or, by mail, to the Division of Motor Vehicles in Pierre.
Can I apply for a duplicate title completely online?
No. Because the MV-010 must be notarized, you cannot finish the full duplicate request online; plan on at least the notary step in person.
Do I write my current name or the name on the old title in the owner field?
Yes, use the name exactly as it appears on the title, even if your legal name has since changed; handle a name change as a separate matter.
What do I put in the title number box if I lost the title and don’t know it?
No problem — leave it blank and enter your VIN or HIN instead, since the DMV can locate your record from the serial number alone.
Do I check a box in Section B if my car has no lien?
No. Skip all of Section B entirely when no lien shows on the record; it applies only to vehicles with a lienholder.
Will I get a paper title if my vehicle still has a loan on it?
No, not unless you check a qualifying reason in Section B, such as moving out of state; otherwise the duplicate is issued electronically.
Do both owners need to sign if the vehicle is jointly titled?
Yes, when two owners appear on the title, both generally must sign the certification in Section C in front of the notary.
Can someone else sign the form for me?
Yes, a person with power of attorney can sign on the owner’s behalf, but a copy of the power of attorney must be attached to the form.
Do I have to fill in the odometer reading?
Yes, if the vehicle is 9 years old or newer or has a gross weight of 16,000 lbs. or less; older or heavier vehicles can leave it blank.
Can this same form be used for a boat?
Yes. Form MV-010 covers boats and vessels; enter the HIN in the serial number box and the vessel length in the Model/Length field.
Where do I mail the completed form?
Yes, mail it to the Division of Motor Vehicles, Duplicate Title Section, 445 E. Capitol Avenue, Pierre, SD 57501-3185, along with the $10 fee.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Nebraska DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out North Dakota DOT Application for Certificate of Title (SFN 2872)
- How to Fill Out North Dakota DOT Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Rhode Island DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Application for Certificate of Title (Form MV-608) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out South Dakota DMV Vehicle Registration Application + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs