The South Dakota vehicle bill of sale, Form MV-016 (rev. 03/04), is a sworn statement that proves a motor vehicle or boat changed hands, listing the make, model, year, title number, price, and the seller’s signed oath that they own the vehicle and have the right to sell it. Any private buyer or seller transferring a car, truck, motorcycle, trailer, or boat in South Dakota uses it to back up the title transfer at the county treasurer’s office.
You sign this form under penalty of perjury, so a wrong price or a missing serial number is not a small slip. South Dakota gives buyers only 45 days to transfer a title, and late filers face a penalty of $1 per week for up to 26 weeks, a $50 flat penalty after that, plus interest on the 4% excise tax. About 90,000 to 100,000 used-vehicle title transfers move through South Dakota counties each year, and a bad bill of sale is one of the most common reasons a counter clerk hands the paperwork back.
In this guide, you will learn:
- 📝 How to fill out every line of Form MV-016 the right way, in plain English.
- 🚗 The exact documents to gather before you sell or buy, so you are not turned away.
- 💵 How the 4% motor vehicle excise tax and title fees are figured from the price you write.
- ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that get a bill of sale rejected, and how to dodge them.
- ❓ Clear answers to the questions buyers and sellers ask most about this form.
What Form MV-016 Is and Who Must File It
Form MV-016 is South Dakota’s official Motor Vehicle/Boat Bill of Sale. It is a one-page sworn document where the seller swears they sold a described vehicle or boat to a named buyer for a stated dollar amount. The form is issued through the South Dakota Department of Revenue, Motor Vehicle Division, and the buyer hands it in when they apply to title and register the vehicle.
You need this form any time ownership of a titled vehicle or boat changes hands in a private sale. That covers cars, pickups, motorcycles, trailers, semitrailers, and boats. Dealers usually generate their own purchase paperwork, but a private buyer and seller almost always need a stand-alone bill of sale because the title alone may not show the price the county needs to charge tax.
The form ties together five things: the purpose (proving the sale), the agency (the county treasurer acting for the Department of Revenue), the statute (SDCL Chapter 32-3 on title transfers), the deadline (45 days to apply for a new title), and the penalty (late fees, interest, and even a Class 2 misdemeanor for applying more than 90 days late). Each piece leans on the others. The bill of sale sets the price, the price sets the 4% tax, and the deadline decides whether you pay extra.
One common belief is that a handshake and a signed-over title are enough. They are not. South Dakota counties want the price in writing on a bill of sale to assess the excise tax, and without it the clerk may estimate value from a guidebook, which can cost you more than the deal was worth.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form. A missing item is the top reason a transfer stalls at the counter, and a second trip wastes the clock on your 45-day deadline.
- The vehicle’s Certificate of Title. The seller must sign it over to the buyer; without it, the county cannot transfer ownership.
- The current odometer reading. You need it for the Odometer Disclosure Statement if the vehicle is under 16,000 pounds and less than 20 model years old; a wrong reading is a federal violation.
- The vehicle’s serial number (VIN) or boat hull ID. This proves exactly which vehicle is being sold; a typo here can match the bill of sale to the wrong vehicle.
- The title number. It links your bill of sale to the state’s title record; leaving it blank slows the clerk’s search.
- The agreed sale price. This figure drives the 4% excise tax; an inflated or lowball number creates tax and perjury problems.
- Both parties’ full legal names and addresses. The county must know who sold and who bought; nicknames cause mismatches with the title.
- A valid driver’s license or state ID for the buyer. The county verifies identity at titling; without it, registration cannot finish.
- Proof of insurance meeting state minimums. South Dakota requires 25/50/25 liability coverage; the county will not register the vehicle without it.
- The Motor Vehicle Title & Registration Application, Form 1001. This is the master application that titles and registers the vehicle in the buyer’s name.
- Payment for fees and tax. Plan for the $10 title fee, 4% excise tax, and registration fees; treasurers often take checks and money orders, and credit cards may carry a service charge.
Write down the price, the date of sale, and the VIN on a scrap of paper first. You will repeat these numbers across the bill of sale, the odometer statement, and the title, and they must match on every document.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
Form MV-016 is a free, fillable PDF. The cleanest source is the South Dakota Department of Revenue’s Motor Vehicle page, where the state hosts its current forms and the online customer portal. You can also download the official PDF of the MV-016 bill of sale and print it.
You have three practical ways to get the form. First, download and print it at home, then fill it in by hand in dark ink. Second, type your answers into the fillable PDF on a computer, which cuts down on hard-to-read handwriting. Third, pick up a paper copy at your local county treasurer’s office, where staff can hand you the form and the matching odometer and application forms at the same time.
Check the revision date in the bottom corner. The current version reads MV-016 (03/04). Using an old or look-alike template from a random website is risky, because counties want the language that swears the statement under penalty of perjury, and a stripped-down form may be refused.
A common misconception is that any printable “bill of sale” off the internet works the same. Many do not include the sworn perjury clause or the boat hull line, and some leave off the title number field. The state form is built to match what the county clerk expects, so start there.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form MV-016 Line by Line
Form MV-016 is short, but every blank matters because you sign it under oath. Fill it out in the order the fields appear, top to bottom. Use dark ink or type, print clearly, and make sure the numbers match your title and odometer statement. Italicized text below shows what an actual entry looks like.
1. Date of Sale (“…on _, 20_”)
This top line asks the calendar date you sold and handed over the vehicle. Write the full month and day on the blank, then the last two digits of the year in the “20___” space, like June 6, 2026 shown as June 6 with 26 after the “20.” Use the real date money and keys changed hands, not the date you write the form.
For example, Linda Carlson sold her pickup on June 6, 2026, so she writes June 6 on the line and 26 in the year box. If you signed the title on a different day than you delivered the truck, use the day ownership actually transferred.
A common mistake is backdating the sale to dodge the 45-day clock or to land in a cheaper registration month. That is a false statement on a sworn form, and the county can compare it to the title assignment date. The fix is simple: write the true date, because the 45 days run from the title assignment anyway.
People often think this date is just a formality. It is not. It starts your deadline and, combined with the excise tax rules, decides when interest begins accruing on the 60th day after purchase.
2. Make
This field asks for the brand of the vehicle. Write the manufacturer name exactly as it appears on the title, in capital letters if you can, such as FORD, TOYOTA, or HARLEY-DAVIDSON. Match the spelling on the Certificate of Title, not the marketing name on the trunk.
For example, Marcus Bear Runner is selling a Ford F-150, so he writes FORD in the Make field. He uses the title’s spelling rather than writing “F-150,” which is the model, not the make.
A common mistake is putting the model in the Make box and the make in the Model box. That swap makes the form disagree with the title and forces the clerk to stop and ask. Read the title’s labels and copy each value into the matching field.
Many people think the make and model are interchangeable. They are two separate facts: the make is the brand (FORD), and the model is the product line (F-150). Keep them in their own boxes.
3. Model
This field asks for the specific product line or model name of the vehicle. Copy it straight from the title, such as F-150, CAMRY, or STREET GLIDE. Include the trim or model designation only if the title shows it.
For example, Marcus Bear Runner writes F-150 in the Model field, matching the line below “Ford” on his title. He skips extra words like “XLT” unless the title lists them.
A common mistake is guessing the model or using a nickname. If the title says SILVERADO but you write “pickup,” the county cannot match the record, and the bill of sale loses its value as proof. Always copy the exact word printed on the title.
A frequent misconception is that the model year belongs here. The year has its own field next. Keep the Model box to the model name only.
4. Year
This field asks for the model year of the vehicle. Enter the four-digit year shown on the title, such as 2019 or 2007. The model year is not always the year you bought it or the year it was first registered, so trust the title.
For example, Linda Carlson writes 2019 for her F-150 because that is the model year printed on her Certificate of Title. She does not write 2020 just because she bought it in late 2019.
A common mistake is entering the purchase year instead of the model year. A mismatch here can change how the vehicle is classified and confuse the odometer “less than 20 years old” test that decides if disclosure is required. Copy the year from the title and double-check it.
People often believe the year affects the tax. It does not change the 4% rate; the tax is based on the price you write, not the age of the vehicle.
5. Title
This field asks for the South Dakota title number assigned to the vehicle. Copy the title number exactly from the Certificate of Title, including every digit and letter. This number links your bill of sale to the state’s official ownership record.
For example, Marcus Bear Runner reads the title number off the top of his title and writes it as 0123456789 in the Title # box. He copies it character by character to avoid a transposition.
A common mistake is leaving this blank because the buyer “will get a new title anyway.” A missing title number slows the clerk’s search and weakens the document if a dispute arises later. Take the extra minute to copy it.
A misconception is that the title number and the VIN are the same thing. They are different: the title number is the state’s paperwork ID, while the serial number is the vehicle’s own VIN. Each has its own line on the form.
6. Motor Vehicle Serial # (VIN)
This field asks for the vehicle identification number, the unique code stamped on the vehicle and printed on the title. Write all 17 characters exactly, using capital letters and numbers, such as 1FTEW1EP5KFA12345. The VIN proves precisely which vehicle is changing hands.
For example, Linda Carlson copies the 17-character VIN from her title’s VIN line into the serial number field, double-checking the spots where a zero and the letter O could be confused. She writes it once, then reads it back.
A common mistake is a single wrong character, which makes the bill of sale describe a different vehicle than the title. That mismatch can void the document’s value and force a corrected form. Copy slowly and verify each character.
People often skip this line if they are selling a boat, but for any motor vehicle the serial number is the heart of the form. Leave it blank only when you are selling a boat with no motor-vehicle VIN, and use the next line instead.
7. Boat Hull ID
This field applies only to boats and vessels. Enter the 12-character Hull Identification Number found on the transom of the boat and on the boat’s title, such as ABC12345D404. Leave this blank when you are selling a car, truck, or motorcycle.
For example, Dale Hoffman is selling a fishing boat, so he leaves the Motor Vehicle serial line blank and writes the Hull ID ABC12345D404 on this line, matching the boat’s title. He fills in only the line that fits his sale.
A common mistake is filling in both the VIN line and the Hull ID line for a single item. The form covers two vehicle types, but each sale is one or the other. Fill the line that matches your item and leave the other blank.
A misconception is that boats do not need this form. Boats are titled in South Dakota and must be registered within 60 days of an ownership change, and the same MV-016 covers them.
8. Sold To (Purchaser)
This field asks for the buyer’s full legal name. Write the buyer’s name as it will appear on the new title, such as Aisha N. Johnson, not a nickname or a business shorthand. If two people are buying together, write both names and note whether it is “and” or “or.”
For example, Marcus Bear Runner writes Aisha N. Johnson as the purchaser because that is the name Aisha uses on her driver’s license and will use on the title. He spells it the way her ID reads.
A common mistake is writing the buyer’s casual name, which then disagrees with the ID shown at the counter. A name mismatch can stall the title application until it is corrected. Use the exact legal name from the buyer’s license.
People often think the buyer signs this form. They do not. On MV-016 only the seller signs and swears; the buyer’s name appears here, but the buyer’s signature belongs on the title and the odometer statement.
9. For _____ Dollars (Sale Price)
This field asks for the total price the buyer paid. Write the full dollar amount in numbers, and spell it out if the line invites it, such as $8,500. This figure is the base for the 4% motor vehicle excise tax, so it must be honest and exact.
For example, Linda Carlson sold her F-150 for $8,500, so she writes $8,500 on the dollars line. When Aisha titles the truck, the county charges 4% of $8,500, which is $340 in excise tax.
A common mistake is lowballing the price to cut the tax. South Dakota can question a price that is far below value, and because the form is sworn, an understated price is a false statement that can trigger a tax assessment and penalties. Write the true number.
A misconception is that a “$1” or “gift” entry avoids tax. Gifts between certain family members may qualify for relief through the proper process, but writing a fake $1 price on a true sale is perjury, not a tax strategy.
10. Ownership Oath (“I (we) further swear…”)
This pre-printed line is the seller’s sworn promise that they own the vehicle and have full right and power to sell it. You do not write anything new here, but by signing the form you adopt this statement. Read it before you sign, because it is the legal core of the document.
For example, Marcus Bear Runner reads the oath and confirms he is the sole owner with a clear title before he moves on to sign. Because he holds the title in his own name with no co-owner, he can swear truthfully.
A common mistake is signing when there is an unresolved co-owner or an active lien. If a lienholder still has an interest, you cannot swear full right to convey, and the sale can be challenged. Clear the lien or get the co-owner to sign first.
People often skim this clause as boilerplate. It is the part that makes the form a sworn affidavit, and ignoring it is how sellers end up swearing to something that is not true.
11. Dated This ___ Day Of _, 20_
This field asks for the date you actually sign the form, which can match or follow the sale date. Write the day number, the month, and the two-digit year, such as 6th day of June, 2026. This signing date shows when you executed the affidavit.
For example, Linda Carlson signs on the same day she sells, so she writes 6th, June, and 26. If she had signed the form a day after delivering the truck, she would use the later date here while keeping the true sale date in field 1.
A common mistake is leaving this blank or copying the wrong year. A missing signing date can make the affidavit look incomplete to the clerk. Fill all three parts before you sign.
A misconception is that this date and the sale date must always be identical. They usually are, but they can differ. The top field records the sale; this field records when you signed.
12. Seller(s) Signature
This field is where the seller signs by hand to make the affidavit official. Sign in ink exactly as your name appears on the title, and if the title lists two owners, both must sign on the two signature lines. Your signature is what puts the perjury oath into effect.
For example, Marcus Bear Runner signs his name in cursive on the first signature line, matching the spelling on his title. Because he is the only owner, the second line stays blank.
A common mistake is a co-owner failing to sign. If the title reads “John and Jane Doe,” both must sign, or the transfer can be rejected for an incomplete conveyance. Check the title for an “and” or “or” between owners and act accordingly.
People often think a typed name counts as a signature. It does not. The clerk wants a handwritten signature on this line, even if the rest of the form was typed.
13. Seller(s) Address
This final field asks for the seller’s mailing address. Write the full street address, city, state, and ZIP, such as 412 Oak St, Rapid City, SD 57701. This lets the county and buyer reach the seller if a question comes up later.
For example, Linda Carlson writes 412 Oak St, Rapid City, SD 57701 on the address lines. If she uses a P.O. box for mail, she can add it, but she still lists a physical address so the record is complete.
A common mistake is leaving the address off or using an old one. An out-of-date address makes it hard to resolve any later dispute over the sale. Use your current address.
A misconception is that the seller’s address must match the title’s owner address. It is fine if you have moved; just write where you can be reached now, and the rest of the document still stands.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common South Dakota sales walked through field by field. Each table shows what one named person enters on Form MV-016.
Scenario 1: In-state private car sale (Linda sells to Aisha)
| Form Section | What Linda Enters |
|---|---|
| Date of sale | June 6, 2026 |
| Make | FORD |
| Model | F-150 |
| Year | 2019 |
| Title # | 0123456789 |
| Motor Vehicle serial # (VIN) | 1FTEW1EP5KFA12345 |
| Sold to (purchaser) | Aisha N. Johnson |
| For ___ dollars | $8,500 |
| Dated this | 6th day of June, 2026 |
| Seller(s) signature / address | Linda Carlson / 412 Oak St, Rapid City, SD 57701 |
Scenario 2: Out-of-state buyer titling the car in South Dakota (Marcus sells to Robert from Iowa)
| Form Section | What Marcus Enters |
|---|---|
| Date of sale | May 20, 2026 |
| Make | TOYOTA |
| Model | CAMRY |
| Year | 2017 |
| Title # | 0445566778 |
| Motor Vehicle serial # (VIN) | 4T1BF1FK7HU123456 |
| Boat Hull ID # | left blank |
| Sold to (purchaser) | Robert J. Miller |
| For ___ dollars | $11,200 |
| Seller(s) signature / address | Marcus Bear Runner / 88 Pine Ave, Pierre, SD 57501 |
Scenario 3: Boat sale using the same MV-016 (Dale sells a fishing boat to Karen)
| Form Section | What Dale Enters |
|---|---|
| Date of sale | April 12, 2026 |
| Make | LUND |
| Model | PRO-V |
| Year | 2015 |
| Title # | 0998877665 |
| Motor Vehicle serial # | left blank |
| Boat Hull ID # | ABC12345D404 |
| Sold to (purchaser) | Karen S. White |
| For ___ dollars | $6,750 |
| Seller(s) signature / address | Dale Hoffman / 27 Lake Rd, Mobridge, SD 57601 |
How to File the Completed Form MV-016
The bill of sale is not mailed to a central DMV. The buyer brings it, with the signed title and supporting forms, to the county treasurer’s office to apply for a new title and registration. Below are the channels available.
- In person at the county treasurer’s office. This is the standard path for a newly purchased vehicle. Bring the MV-016 bill of sale, the signed Certificate of Title, the Title & Registration Application Form 1001, the odometer statement, your driver’s license, and proof of insurance. Expect to pay the $10 title fee, 4% excise tax, and registration fees, often by cash, check, or money order, with credit cards sometimes adding a service fee. The processing happens at the counter, and you leave with a receipt and registration; keep the receipt as your proof of filing.
- By mail through your county. Some counties, such as Minnehaha County, accept title transfers by mail to the treasurer’s office address. Send copies of the bill of sale and the original signed title with the application and a check for fees and tax. Mail filing takes longer, so file well inside your 45-day window, and keep a copy of everything you send as proof.
- Online portal and kiosks (for later renewals). First-time titling of a purchase must be done through the county, but once the vehicle is in your name you can renew at the South Dakota online customer portal or at a DMV Now self-service kiosk. These channels do not handle the initial bill-of-sale transfer, but they matter for the annual renewal that follows.
Keep your stamped receipt and a copy of the bill of sale after you file. If a question ever comes up about when you transferred the title or what you paid, that receipt is your proof you met the deadline and reported the correct price.
What Happens After You File
Once the county accepts your paperwork, the treasurer’s office processes the transfer and issues a new title in the buyer’s name, usually mailed within a few weeks. You receive your registration and license plates or a renewal sticker at the counter the same day in most counties. The 4% excise tax and fees are collected at that moment based on the price you wrote on the bill of sale.
The seller has a separate duty. South Dakota expects the seller to file a Seller’s Report of Sale within 15 days so the state knows the seller is no longer responsible for the vehicle. Filing it protects the seller from tickets, tolls, or liability tied to the car after the sale.
If the buyer misses the 45-day deadline, the county adds late fees of $1 per week up to 26 weeks, then a $50 penalty, plus interest on the excise tax starting on the 60th day. Applying more than 90 days late is a Class 2 misdemeanor. The clock and the price you reported are what the county checks first, so accurate dates and figures keep this stage smooth.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out Form MV-016
Each line on this short form is its own chance to slip. Here are the errors that cause the most trouble.
- Swapping Make and Model. The form disagrees with the title, and the clerk stops to sort it out.
- Mistyping the VIN. A single wrong character makes the form describe the wrong vehicle and can void its value.
- Leaving the Title # blank. The clerk cannot quickly link the sale to the state record, slowing your transfer.
- Lowballing the sale price. An understated price is sworn perjury and can trigger a tax assessment and penalties.
- Writing a fake “$1” gift price on a real sale. It is a false statement, not a tax shortcut.
- Backdating the sale date. The county compares it to the title assignment, and a false date undermines the whole affidavit.
- A co-owner failing to sign. An “and” title with one signature is an incomplete conveyance and can be rejected.
- Filling both the VIN line and the boat Hull ID line. Each sale is one item, and using both lines confuses the record.
- Using the buyer’s nickname in “Sold To.” It clashes with the ID at the counter and stalls the title application.
- Skipping the odometer disclosure when required. For vehicles under 16,000 pounds and under 20 years old, this is a federal violation.
- Using an outdated or look-alike template. A form missing the perjury clause may be refused by the county.
- Forgetting to keep a copy. Without one, you have no proof of the date or price if a dispute arises.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Do copy the make, model, year, VIN, and title number straight from the title, because matching documents move through the counter without questions.
- Do write the true sale price, since the 4% excise tax and the perjury oath both ride on this number.
- Do have every owner listed on the title sign, because an “and” title needs all signatures to be valid.
- Do attach the odometer statement when required, since federal law demands it for newer, lighter vehicles.
- Do file within 45 days, because the late penalty climbs each week and interest starts on day 60.
- Do keep a signed copy, so you can prove the date and price later.
Don’t:
- Don’t fudge the price, because a false figure on a sworn form is perjury and invites a tax reassessment.
- Don’t leave the title number blank, since it slows the clerk and weakens the document.
- Don’t confuse the title number with the VIN, because they are different IDs with separate lines.
- Don’t sign if a lien or co-owner issue is unresolved, since you cannot swear full right to convey.
- Don’t use a random internet template, because it may lack the language the county requires.
- Don’t wait until the deadline is close, because mail filing and corrections both eat time.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most private sales are simple enough to handle yourself, but some situations are easier with the treasurer’s staff or a service walking you through it.
Pros of filing on your own:
- It is free, because you pay only the state fees and tax, not a service charge.
- It is fast for a clean sale, since a clear title and a correct form move quickly at the counter.
- You control accuracy, because you copy each field yourself from the title.
- You learn the process, which helps on your next sale or purchase.
- No appointment chains, since you go straight to the treasurer with your packet.
Cons of filing on your own:
- Errors are on you, because a wrong VIN or price means a return trip.
- You track the deadline, since no one reminds you about the 45-day clock.
- Lien or co-owner snags are harder, because untangling them takes know-how.
- Out-of-state pieces add confusion, when titles cross state lines.
- Boat rules differ slightly, with a 60-day window that is easy to overlook.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Form MV-016 required for every private vehicle sale in South Dakota?
Yes. A bill of sale documents the price the county needs to charge the 4% excise tax, and the signed-over title alone often does not show that figure.
Do I write the title number or the VIN in the serial number box?
No, not the title number. The “Motor Vehicle serial #” box takes the 17-character VIN; the title number goes in the separate Title # field.
Does the buyer sign Form MV-016?
No. Only the seller signs and swears on MV-016. The buyer signs the title and the odometer disclosure statement instead.
Do I fill in the Boat Hull ID line when selling a car?
No. Leave the Boat Hull ID blank for a car or truck and use the Motor Vehicle serial # line for the VIN.
Can I write a low price to lower my excise tax?
No. The form is sworn under penalty of perjury, and an understated price can trigger a tax assessment, penalties, and legal trouble.
Do I need an odometer disclosure with the bill of sale?
Yes, if the vehicle is under 16,000 pounds and less than 20 model years old, federal and state law require a separate odometer statement.
Is there a deadline to transfer the title after I buy?
Yes. Buyers have 45 days to apply for a new title, after which late fees of $1 per week and then a $50 penalty apply.
Does the seller have any filing duty?
Yes. The seller should file a Seller’s Report of Sale within 15 days so the state knows they no longer own the vehicle.
Do both owners on an “and” title have to sign?
Yes. If the title lists owners joined by “and,” every listed owner must sign the bill of sale for a valid transfer.
Can I file the bill of sale online?
No. First-time titling of a purchase is done at the county treasurer’s office; the online portal handles later renewals only.
Does this same form work for selling a boat?
Yes. Form MV-016 covers boats; enter the Hull ID instead of a VIN, and register the boat within 60 days of the sale.
Is a $1 “gift” entry allowed for a true sale?
No. Writing a fake $1 price on a real sale is a false sworn statement; genuine family gifts use the proper exemption process instead.
Do I need to keep a copy after filing?
Yes. Keep a signed copy and your treasurer’s receipt as proof of the sale date and the price you reported.
Does the seller’s address have to match the title?
No. If you have moved, write your current address so you can be reached; the document is still valid.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out North Dakota DOT Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out North Dakota DOT Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Application for Certificate of Title (Form MV-608) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out South Dakota DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out South Dakota DMV Vehicle Registration Application + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs