The Alaska Odometer Disclosure Statement is the form that records a vehicle’s true mileage at the moment of sale, and both the seller and the buyer must sign it whenever the vehicle’s title has no space to write the odometer reading. The Alaska Division of Motor Vehicles requires it under state rule 2 AAC 92.220 and federal rule 49 CFR Part 580, and a missing or false reading can stop a title transfer cold or even bring criminal charges.
Most people meet this form during a private car sale, when the title is full, worn, or already has the odometer line used up. Getting it right protects you, because the Alaska DMV lists a penalty of a $2,000 fine and/or 3 years imprisonment for a false statement, and the state will not license a vehicle until this disclosure is complete. This guide walks you through the current Form V6 (Rev. V6) line by line so you can fill it out once and fill it out right.
Here is what you will learn:
- 📝 How to complete every box on the V6 form, from the VIN to the buyer’s signature
- 🚗 When the form is required and when older or heavier vehicles are exempt
- ⚠️ How to handle the two odometer discrepancy checkboxes without ruining a sale
- 📬 Every way to file it, including in person, by mail, and through a DMV business partner
- 🧾 The exact mistakes that get titles rejected and how to avoid each one
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Alaska Odometer Disclosure Statement is a one-page legal record of a vehicle’s mileage at the time of sale, transfer, or lease. You can download the current version, the Odometer Disclosure Statement V6, directly from the Alaska DMV. The form exists for one reason: to stop odometer fraud, which is the illegal practice of rolling back a vehicle’s mileage to make it seem worth more than it is.
The agency that receives this form is the Alaska Division of Motor Vehicles. The state statute behind it is 2 AAC 92.220, and the federal law that backs it up is 49 CFR Part 580, part of the Truth in Mileage Act. These two laws work together, because the federal rule sets the national floor and Alaska’s rule applies that floor inside the state. When the rules conflict, the stricter one wins, and the buyer’s signature requirement comes straight from the federal side.
Anyone selling or transferring a motor vehicle in Alaska must complete this disclosure when the title itself has no odometer space, or when that space is already used or unreadable. The seller fills out the mileage and signs first. The buyer then signs to acknowledge the reading. Both private people and licensed dealers use this same form, and both must keep a copy.
Federal law sets one key timing rule that trips up almost everyone. Disclosure used to be required only for vehicles less than 10 years old. As of January 1, 2021, the window grew, so now vehicles must carry a disclosure for 20 years, starting with the 2011 model year and newer. The federal odometer rule means a 2015 car sold today still needs this form, even though it would have been exempt under the old 10-year rule.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form, because a single missing detail can force you to redo the page or delay the title transfer. The buyer cannot register the vehicle until this disclosure is complete and matches the title.
- The vehicle’s current title. You need it to confirm the VIN and to see whether the title already has an odometer line. If the title is missing, you cannot transfer ownership, and you must apply for a duplicate first.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). This 17-character code ties the disclosure to the exact car. A wrong VIN makes the form worthless and the DMV will reject it.
- The exact odometer reading. Read it the moment you fill out the form, in whole miles. Guessing or estimating is a false statement under the law.
- The seller’s full legal name and address. The name must match the title and a government ID. A nickname or mismatch can stall the transfer.
- The buyer’s full legal name and address. The buyer signs and must give matching ID at registration. A wrong name forces a new form.
- The year, make, model, and body style. These confirm the vehicle’s identity alongside the VIN. Missing details can trigger questions at the counter.
- A blue or black ink pen. The form is signed by hand, and pencil or odd colors can be rejected as alterable.
- A way to make copies. Both the seller and the buyer must keep a legible copy for at least four years, so plan for two copies before anyone signs.
If the vehicle weighs more than 12,000 pounds unladen, is not self-propelled, or is older than the 20-year window, you may be exempt and should confirm before filling anything out. When in doubt, call the Alaska DMV at 907-269-5551 and ask before you sign.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The official source is the Alaska DMV. The cleanest path is to download the current V6 form as a PDF, which you can print at home and fill in by hand. You can also find it through the Alaska DMV forms page, which lists every state vehicle document in one place.
You do not always need this separate sheet. Most Alaska titles include a built-in odometer disclosure section, and the odometer requirements page explains that you only use the standalone form when the title has no space, the space is already full, or the reading is illegible. Using the standalone form when the title space is open can confuse the clerk, so check the title first.
You can pick up a paper copy in person at any Alaska DMV office if you do not have a printer. A handful of private title services and DMV business partners also keep blank copies on hand. Whatever the source, confirm you have the V6 version printed at the bottom, because older numbered versions like Form 83 or 839 may be outdated and could be refused.
The form is free. You only pay the normal title and registration fees when you file the transfer, not for the disclosure itself. If you find a site charging you for the blank form, you are on the wrong page, and you should return to the official DMV site.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Alaska Odometer Disclosure Statement Line by Line
Work through the form from top to bottom in the order the boxes appear. The form has three blocks: Seller Information, Vehicle Information, and Buyer Information. Fill in every box that applies, use the same ink throughout, and never erase or scribble over an entry.
1. Seller Information — Full Legal Name Including Suffix
This box asks for the legal name of the person or business selling the vehicle, written exactly as it appears on the title. Print your first name, middle name, last name, and any suffix such as Jr. or III in clear letters. Maria Elena Gomez writes her name as it reads on her ID and title, with no nickname.
The name must match the current title because the DMV cross-checks the seller against the registered owner. A nickname like Liz instead of Elizabeth can break that match and hold up the transfer. If two people are on the title as owners, each owner should be named and each should sign, since both are legally transferring the vehicle.
A common mistake here is using a married name on the form when the title still shows a maiden name, or the reverse. That mismatch makes the clerk question who actually owns the car, and the title will not transfer until it is fixed. A misconception is that “close enough” names are fine; in fact the DMV treats the legal name on the title as the only correct entry.
2. Seller Information — Company / Trust / Agency Name (I/A)
This box is only for sales where the seller is a business, a trust, or an agency rather than a single person. Write the full registered entity name here, exactly as it appears on the title. A dealership named Northern Lights Auto LLC writes that full name, not an abbreviation or store nickname.
If you are an ordinary private seller, leave this box blank, because it does not apply to you. The “(I/A)” note means the entry must match the title’s records for that entity. A trust selling a deceased owner’s car would list the trust’s legal name, such as The Robert Hahn Living Trust.
The common mistake is a private person writing their employer’s name here by accident, which makes it look like a business sale and can trigger extra paperwork. A misconception is that a sole proprietor must fill this box; in truth, a sole proprietor usually sells under a personal legal name unless the title is held in the business name.
3. Seller Information — Seller Address, City, State, Zip
These boxes ask where the seller lives or where the business is based. Write the full street address, city, two-letter state code, and ZIP code on the matching lines. Maria Elena Gomez enters 1420 Spruce St, Anchorage, AK, 99501.
Use your current mailing address, because the DMV may send notices or refunds there. If you use a P.O. Box for mail but live at a street address, list the street address when the form asks for a residence and add the P.O. Box only if there is room and it is your true mailing point. The state field always uses the postal abbreviation, so Alaska is AK, not “Alaska” spelled out.
A common mistake is writing an old address from a prior move, which can route important mail to the wrong place and delay refunds. A misconception is that the address must match the buyer’s location or the sale site; it only needs to be the seller’s real address.
4. Vehicle Information — Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This box asks for the 17-character VIN that uniquely identifies the vehicle. Copy it exactly from the title, character by character, using all capital letters. 1HGCM82633A004352 is how a full VIN looks when entered correctly.
Read each character slowly, because VINs mix letters and numbers and are easy to misread. The letters I, O, and Q never appear in a modern VIN, so if you think you see one, it is almost always the number 1 or 0. Double-check the VIN against both the title and the dash plate before you write it down.
The single most damaging mistake on this form is a wrong VIN, because it links the disclosure to a different vehicle and the DMV will reject the entire transfer. A misconception is that a partial VIN, like the last six digits, is enough; the law requires the full VIN to match the title exactly.
5. Vehicle Information — Year, Make, Model, Body Style
These boxes ask for the model year, the manufacturer, the model name, and the body type. Enter the four-digit year, then the make such as Ford, the model such as Focus, and the body style such as 4 door. The form itself gives examples, like Chevy, Ford, Jeep for make and Wrangler, Focus, Model 3 for model.
Match these details to the title so everything lines up. The body style uses plain terms the form suggests, such as 2 door, Truck, or SUV. A buyer purchasing a 2018 Toyota Tacoma Truck writes each of those four facts in its own box.
A common mistake is mixing up the model year with the year of purchase or the year the car was first registered; only the model year goes here. A misconception is that make and model are interchangeable; the make is the brand, like Jeep, while the model is the specific vehicle, like Wrangler.
6. Vehicle Information — Current Odometer Reading (Miles)
This is the heart of the form, and it asks for the exact mileage showing on the odometer right now, in miles. Write the whole number with no tenths and no commas needed, just the digits the odometer shows. If the dash reads 87,432, you write 87432 in the miles box.
Read the odometer the moment you fill out the form, not from memory. Drop the tenths digit, because the disclosure records whole miles only. The form states this reading is certified as the actual mileage unless you check one of the warning boxes below it, so an accurate number here is what keeps the certification true.
A common mistake is recording a reading in kilometers from an imported vehicle and labeling it as miles, which overstates the distance and creates a false statement. Another error is writing the tenths, which can look like a far higher mileage. A misconception is that you can round up to a “clean” number; you must write the true reading exactly as it appears.
7. Vehicle Information — Odometer Discrepancy Checkboxes (Warning)
Below the mileage, the form has two warning boxes, and you check one only if the mileage is not correct. The first box certifies that the reading “reflects the amount of mileage in excess of its mechanical limits,” meaning the odometer has rolled past its maximum and started over. The second box certifies that the odometer reading “is not the actual mileage,” used when the odometer is broken, replaced, or otherwise wrong.
Check the first box when an older five-digit odometer has turned past 99,999 and restarted, so the dash now shows a low number that does not reflect true miles. A 1998 truck that has actually driven 187,000 miles but reads 87,000 on a five-digit dial needs the “exceeds mechanical limits” box checked. Check the second box when the odometer was swapped, repaired, or stuck, so the number simply is not reliable.
The most serious mistake is checking a box by accident on a normal car, because it permanently brands the title as having mileage problems and lowers resale value for every future owner. The opposite mistake, leaving both boxes blank when the mileage truly is wrong, is a false certification that can bring the $2,000 fine and/or 3 years imprisonment. A misconception is that you check a box if you are simply unsure; if you do not know the mileage is wrong, you leave both blank and certify in good faith.
8. Seller Signature and Today’s Date
This box asks the seller to sign by hand and date the form on the day of the sale. Sign in ink the same way you sign your ID, then write the date in MM/DD/YYYY format. Maria Elena Gomez signs her name and writes 06/06/2026 beside it.
Your signature is a sworn legal statement that the mileage and discrepancy boxes are true to the best of your knowledge. The date must be the actual date you complete the disclosure, which should match or align with the bill of sale and title transfer date. Do not sign a blank or partly filled form, because you are responsible for everything above your signature.
A common mistake is signing before reading the odometer or before checking the right boxes, which locks in errors under your own name. Another error is back-dating the form to an earlier day, which can clash with the title date and raise fraud questions. A misconception is that a printed name counts as a signature; the box needs a real handwritten signature.
9. Buyer Information — Full Legal Name Including Suffix
This box asks for the buyer’s legal name, written exactly as it will appear on the new title and registration. Print the buyer’s first, middle, and last name with any suffix. A buyer named David Okpik Jr. writes his full name including the Jr.
The name must match the buyer’s government ID, because the DMV issues the new title in this name. If two people are buying the vehicle together, list both names so the title can show joint ownership. The name here should be the same one the buyer uses on the rest of the transfer paperwork.
A common mistake is the seller filling in the buyer’s name from memory and misspelling it, which forces a new form at the counter. A misconception is that the buyer’s name is optional because the seller “owns” the disclosure; federal law specifically requires the buyer’s identity and acknowledgment.
10. Buyer Information — Company / Trust / Agency Name (I/A)
This box applies only when the buyer is a business, trust, or agency rather than an individual. Write the full registered name of the buying entity exactly as it should appear on the new title. A buyer that is Tundra Rentals LLC writes that name here.
Leave this box blank if you are an individual buyer, since it does not apply. The entry must match how the entity is legally registered, because the title will be issued in that name. A nonprofit buying a van might enter Kenai Youth Center Inc.
A common mistake is an individual buyer writing a personal name here instead of in the personal name box, which can wrongly classify the sale as a business purchase. A misconception is that adding a business name boosts credibility; if no business is buying, this box must stay empty.
11. Buyer Information — Buyer Address, City, State, Zip
These boxes ask where the buyer lives or where the buying business is based. Enter the full street address, city, state code, and ZIP. David Okpik Jr. enters 305 Tongass Ave, Ketchikan, AK, 99901.
This should be the buyer’s current address, because the new registration and any DMV notices go there. As with the seller, use a real street address when asked for a residence and the two-letter state code AK for Alaska. If the buyer just moved, use the address where they want their title and plates sent.
A common mistake is using the address of the sale location or the seller’s home, which sends the buyer’s title to the wrong place. A misconception is that the address can be updated later for free with no effect; an early error can delay the title arriving at all.
12. Buyer Signature Acknowledging Odometer Disclosure and Today’s Date
This final box asks the buyer to sign by hand, acknowledging the odometer reading the seller disclosed, and to date it. The buyer signs in ink and writes the date in MM/DD/YYYY format. David Okpik Jr. signs and writes 06/06/2026.
This signature is required by federal law and proves the buyer saw and accepted the disclosed mileage. Without it, the DMV will not process the title, because an unacknowledged disclosure is incomplete. The date should match the seller’s date and the day the sale closes.
A common mistake is the buyer leaving this box blank because they think only the seller signs, which makes the whole form invalid. A misconception is that the buyer’s signature means they verified the mileage is true; it only means they were told the reading and accept the disclosure as given.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
These three scenarios show how different sales fill out the same form. Each follows one filer through the key boxes so you can see real entries.
Scenario 1: Maria sells a normal-mileage 2019 sedan privately. Maria’s car runs fine and the odometer is accurate, so she checks no warning boxes.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Seller Full Legal Name | Maria Elena Gomez |
| Seller Address | 1420 Spruce St, Anchorage, AK, 99501 |
| VIN | 1HGCM82633A004352 |
| Year / Make / Model / Body Style | 2019 / Honda / Civic / 4 door |
| Current Odometer Reading | 48,210 miles |
| Discrepancy Boxes | Both left blank |
| Seller Signature / Date | Maria Elena Gomez / 06/06/2026 |
| Buyer Signature / Date | David Okpik Jr. / 06/06/2026 |
Scenario 2: Frank sells a 1998 truck whose 5-digit odometer rolled over. The truck has driven more than 187,000 miles but the dial only shows 87,000, so Frank checks the “exceeds mechanical limits” box.
| Form Section | What Frank Enters |
|---|---|
| Seller Full Legal Name | Frank Russell Boyd |
| Seller Address | 77 Glacier Hwy, Juneau, AK, 99801 |
| VIN | 1FTEX15N2WKA12345 |
| Year / Make / Model / Body Style | 1998 / Ford / F-150 / Truck |
| Current Odometer Reading | 87,000 miles |
| Discrepancy Boxes | “Exceeds mechanical limits” checked |
| Seller Signature / Date | Frank Russell Boyd / 06/06/2026 |
| Buyer Signature / Date | Lena Mae Charlie / 06/06/2026 |
Scenario 3: Tundra Rentals LLC sells a van with a replaced odometer. The original cluster failed and was swapped, so the reading is not the true lifetime mileage, and the seller checks the “not actual mileage” box.
| Form Section | What Tundra Rentals Enters |
|---|---|
| Seller Company Name (I/A) | Tundra Rentals LLC |
| Seller Address | 900 Industrial Ave, Fairbanks, AK, 99701 |
| VIN | 2C4RDGBG7FR512345 |
| Year / Make / Model / Body Style | 2015 / Dodge / Grand Caravan / Van |
| Current Odometer Reading | 12,540 miles |
| Discrepancy Boxes | “Not actual mileage” checked |
| Seller Signature / Date | Authorized agent signature / 06/06/2026 |
| Buyer Signature / Date | Aisha Noor Hassan / 06/06/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
The Odometer Disclosure Statement is never filed by itself. It travels with the rest of the title transfer paperwork, usually the signed title and the Vehicle Transaction Application Form 812, and the buyer submits the package to register the vehicle. Here is how each channel works.
In person at a DMV office. Bring the signed disclosure, the signed title, Form 812, and the buyer’s ID to any Alaska DMV office. You pay the standard title fee, often around $15, plus registration fees that vary by vehicle and borough. The DMV accepts cash, check, and most cards, and you walk out with a stamped receipt as proof of filing. Processing the title starts the same day, and the new title is mailed later.
By mail. Send the signed disclosure along with the title and Form 812 to the address on Form 812, with a check or money order for the fees. Do not mail cash. Keep a copy of everything you send and use tracked mail, because the mailed receipt and your copies are your only proof until the title arrives, which can take several weeks.
Through a DMV business partner. Alaska contracts with private title and registration agents who can accept your paperwork and forward it to the DMV. They charge a small added service fee on top of state fees, and they accept the payment methods the partner office posts. Your proof of filing is the partner’s dated receipt, so keep it safe.
No matter the channel, both the seller and the buyer must keep a legible copy of the signed disclosure for at least four years, as the form itself orders. That copy is your defense if a mileage dispute ever arises.
What Happens After You File
Once the DMV accepts a complete disclosure with the title and Form 812, it records the mileage in the state system and processes the ownership change. The state is legally barred from licensing the vehicle until the disclosure is complete, so a correct form is what unlocks the new registration. The buyer usually leaves with a temporary registration or receipt while the permanent title is prepared.
The new title is mailed to the buyer’s address, typically within a few weeks, and the recorded odometer reading carries forward onto it. From then on, that figure is the official mileage of record for the vehicle. Any future buyer can see whether a discrepancy box was ever checked, because that history follows the title.
If the form is incomplete, has a VIN mismatch, or is missing a signature, the DMV rejects the package and the transfer stalls. The buyer cannot register or legally drive the car on new plates until the fix is made. In that case you redo the disclosure with the correct details and resubmit, which costs time but no extra disclosure fee.
If a mileage problem surfaces later, the four-year copy rule matters, because both parties may need to show what was disclosed. A false reading can lead to the $2,000 fine and/or 3 years imprisonment the DMV warns about. Honest disclosure, even of a rollover or broken odometer, protects you from that exposure.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Each error below has stopped real title transfers, so read them before you sign.
- Writing the wrong VIN, which links the form to another vehicle and gets the whole transfer rejected.
- Recording mileage in kilometers but labeling it as miles, which creates a false statement and overstates distance.
- Including the tenths digit, which can make the mileage look far higher than it is.
- Checking a discrepancy box on a normal car, which permanently brands the title and cuts resale value.
- Leaving both discrepancy boxes blank when the mileage truly is wrong, which is a false certification with criminal exposure.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name, which breaks the DMV’s name match and holds up the title.
- Forgetting the buyer’s signature, which makes the disclosure invalid under federal law.
- Forgetting the seller’s signature, which means nothing is certified and the form is worthless.
- Using pencil or erasable ink, which the DMV can reject as alterable.
- Using an outdated form like Form 83 or 839 instead of the current V6, which may be refused.
- Back-dating the form so it conflicts with the title and bill of sale dates, which raises fraud flags.
- Filling the standalone form when the title already has an open odometer section, which confuses the clerk.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Do read the odometer at the exact moment you complete the form, so the number is true and current.
- Do match every name and the VIN to the title, because the DMV cross-checks them and rejects mismatches.
- Do keep a legible copy for at least four years, since the form and the law both require it.
- Do confirm you have the V6 version, because older numbered forms may be outdated.
- Do check the right discrepancy box when the mileage is genuinely wrong, to keep your certification honest.
- Do call the DMV at 907-269-5551 when you are unsure whether the vehicle is exempt.
Don’t:
- Don’t sign a blank or half-filled form, because you are responsible for everything above your signature.
- Don’t guess or estimate the mileage, since a guess is a false statement under the law.
- Don’t check a discrepancy box just because you are unsure, as that wrongly brands the title.
- Don’t round the mileage up or down to a clean number, because the true reading is required.
- Don’t skip the buyer’s acknowledging signature, which voids the entire disclosure.
- Don’t mail cash with a by-mail filing, because lost cash leaves you with no proof and no fees paid.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Many private sellers complete this form alone, while others use a dealer or title service. Here is how the two paths compare.
Pros of filing on your own:
- You pay no service fee, because you handle the paperwork yourself.
- You control the timing and can file the same day as the sale.
- You learn exactly what the title transfer requires, which helps with future sales.
- You keep your own records directly, so nothing is lost between middlemen.
- You avoid sharing personal details with a third party.
Cons of filing on your own:
- You carry the full risk of a rejected form if you make a VIN or signature error.
- You must research exemptions and the 20-year rule yourself.
- You may wait in line at a busy DMV office.
- A mistake can force a second trip and delay the buyer’s registration.
- You have no professional to catch a wrongly checked discrepancy box.
| Filing on Your Own | Filing With a Dealer or Title Service |
|---|---|
| No added service fee, but all responsibility is yours | Added service fee, but the agent reviews the paperwork |
| You research exemptions and the 20-year rule alone | The professional knows the rules and current form version |
| A single error means another trip for you | Errors are often caught before submission |
| You file on your own schedule | You depend on the office’s hours and queue |
| Full control of your own records | The agent handles records and forwarding to the DMV |
FAQs
Do I need this form if my title already has an odometer line?
No. Use this standalone form only when the title has no odometer section, the space is already filled, or the reading is illegible. Otherwise, complete the line on the title itself.
Do I write the mileage with the tenths digit?
No. Enter whole miles only in the Current Odometer Reading box. Drop the tenths, because including it can make the mileage look far higher than it truly is.
Do I check a discrepancy box if I am simply unsure about the mileage?
No. Leave both warning boxes blank and certify in good faith. You check a box only when you know the reading exceeds mechanical limits or is not the actual mileage.
Do I use my maiden name or married name in the seller name box?
Yes, use whichever name appears on the current title. The seller name must match the title exactly, so the DMV’s name cross-check does not stall your transfer.
Do both the seller and the buyer have to sign?
Yes. The seller signs to certify the mileage, and the buyer signs to acknowledge it. Federal law requires the buyer’s signature, and the DMV rejects the form without it.
Do I record kilometers if the car was imported?
No. The form records miles. Convert any kilometer reading to miles before writing it, because labeling kilometers as miles is a false statement.
Do older vehicles still need a disclosure?
Yes, for 20 years starting with the 2011 model year, under the rule effective January 1, 2021. Vehicles over 20 years old are generally exempt, though the DMV may record known mileage.
Do heavy trucks need this form?
No. Vehicles with an unladen weight over 12,000 pounds are exempt, along with non-self-propelled vehicles and certain new vehicles before their first non-resale transfer.
Do I enter “AK” or spell out “Alaska” in the state box?
Yes, use the two-letter code AK. The state field uses postal abbreviations, so writing the full word can clutter the box and slow review.
Do I leave the Company / Trust / Agency box blank as a private person?
Yes. That box is only for business, trust, or agency sales. A private individual leaves it empty and enters their name in the personal name box instead.
Do I pay a fee for the disclosure form itself?
No. The form is free to download and file. You only pay the standard title and registration fees, often starting around $15 for the title, when you complete the transfer.
Do I have to keep a copy after the sale?
Yes. Both the seller and the buyer must keep a legible copy for at least four years, as the form states. That copy protects you if a mileage dispute ever comes up.
Do I sign with a printed name in the signature box?
No. The signature box needs a real handwritten signature in ink. A printed name does not count as a legal signature and can void the disclosure.
Do I file this form by itself at the DMV?
No. It travels with the signed title and the Vehicle Transaction Application Form 812. The buyer submits the full package to register the vehicle and complete the transfer.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Arkansas DFA Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form 10-313) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Nevada DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Idaho ITD Odometer Disclosure Statement (w/ Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Rhode Island DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the West Virginia DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs