How to Fill Out the Arizona AZ MVD Salvage Title Application (Form 96-0236) + FAQs

The Arizona salvage title application is the Title and Registration Application (Form 96-0236), the same form the Arizona Department of Transportation (ADOT) Motor Vehicle Division (MVD) uses to brand a wrecked, stolen, or flood-damaged vehicle as Salvage and, after repair and inspection, to issue a Restored Salvage title. You check the Salvage box at the top, fill in the vehicle and owner details, surrender the proper ownership document, and pay the fees set under ARS § 28-2091 and § 28-2095.

Get one line wrong and the whole package bounces back to you, which can stretch a two-week job into months and keep a rebuilt car parked in your driveway. The form you want carries the revision date 96-0236 R03/26 in the lower corner, so confirm you have that version before you write anything. A salvage vehicle in Arizona must also pass a comprehensive Level III inspection that costs $50.00 and is booked through AZ MVD Now, with the title fee itself just $4.00 plus any registration fees.

Here is what you will learn in this guide:

• ✅ How to fill out every box on Form 96-0236 the right way the first time
• 🔧 What documents and receipts you must gather before the Level III inspection
• 💵 Exactly what you pay, where you pay it, and what proof to keep
• 🚗 Three full walkthroughs that follow real owners from start to finish
• ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that get applications rejected and how to dodge them

What the Salvage Title Application Is and Who Must File It

A salvage title is a branded ownership document the State of Arizona puts on a vehicle that was wrecked, stolen, burned, or flood-damaged so badly that an insurance company decided it cost more to fix than it was worth. Under ARS § 28-2091, once a vehicle hits that point, its old clean title is dead, and a salvage certificate of title takes its place. Form 96-0236 is the single document ADOT uses to record that change, and you trigger it by checking the Salvage box across the top row of the form.

There are really three branded titles tied to this one form. The Salvage Certificate of Title comes first, for a vehicle that is wrecked but not yet repaired. The Restored Salvage Title comes after you fix the vehicle and pass a Level III inspection under ARS § 28-2095. The Nonrepairable Vehicle Title is for a vehicle that can only be sold for parts or scrap and can never go back on the road.

Several different people file this form. Insurance companies file it after they total a car and take ownership, and Arizona law gives them a tight window to do so. Salvage buyers and rebuilders file it after they buy a wrecked car and want a salvage certificate in their own name. DIY owners who kept their own totaled car file it to start the restored salvage process. Dealers and auto recyclers file it as part of normal business. No matter who you are, the form and the core rules stay the same.

Getting this wrong has real costs. A vehicle with an unbranded title that should have been branded cannot be legally sold without disclosure, and ARS § 28-2091 makes failure to disclose a salvage history a violation. Skip the brand and you expose yourself to fraud claims, voided sales, and penalties.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

Gather everything before you open the form, because a missing receipt or ID can stall the entire title for weeks. The Level III inspection guide (Form 99-0101) and ADOT title rules spell out what you must bring. Pull these items together first.

• Proof of ownership, usually the title. This is the salvage certificate or the prior title in your name. Without it, MVD cannot verify you own the vehicle and will not process the application.
• A valid driver license or state ID. Your license number goes on the form and lets MVD cross-check your identity. A missing or expired ID can trigger a hold.
• Receipts or invoices for all component parts. For a restored salvage title, the Level III inspection verifies major parts, and inspectors want proof you bought them legally. No receipts can mean a failed inspection and a theft investigation.
• Temporary registration to drive the salvage vehicle. You need this to legally move the car to the inspection on a public road. Driving it without one risks a ticket and an impound.
• The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You enter this exactly, and it must match the dash plate, the door sticker, and the title. One wrong digit voids the whole application.
• The odometer reading. You record whole miles with no tenths. An honest reading protects you from odometer fraud claims.
• An emissions compliance certificate, if applicable. Vehicles used in Maricopa or Pima County’s Air Quality Control Areas often need a passing emissions test before titling. Skip it and registration stalls.
• Lienholder information, if a loan exists. You list the lienholder name, lien date, and amount. Leaving this blank when a lien exists can make the title legally defective.
• Payment for the fees. Bring money for the $50 Level III inspection, the $4 title fee, and registration costs. Showing up short means you leave without a title.

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

The official form lives on the ADOT site as the Title and Registration Application, Form 96-0236, and it is a free, fillable PDF you can complete on a computer or print and fill by hand. Always download it fresh rather than reusing an old copy, because ADOT updates the layout, and the current version reads 96-0236 R03/26 in the bottom corner. Using a stale version can cause MVD to reject it for missing fields.

You can also pick up a paper copy at any MVD office or at an Authorized Third Party (ATP) provider, which are private offices contracted by the state to handle title work. Many salvage filers prefer an ATP because the staff handle branded titles every day and can catch errors on the spot. The Motor Vehicle Providers Association lists popular MVD forms, and ATP shops keep blank applications on hand.

If you plan to fill it on the computer, open the PDF in a real PDF reader, not a browser preview, so the form fields and the Clear button work. Type your answers, then print the finished form to sign it in ink, because MVD needs a wet signature on the owner line. Save a digital copy for your records before you print.

The Level III inspection that pairs with a restored salvage application is booked separately. You schedule it through AZ MVD Now, the state’s online portal, and inspections are by appointment only at ADOT Enforcement offices statewide.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form 96-0236 Line by Line

Work through the form from the top down, in the order the boxes appear. Each part below matches a real field on Form 96-0236, using the exact labels printed on the page. Take your time, print clearly in black ink, and use ALL CAPS where the form expects it.

1. Transaction Type Checkboxes (Top Row)

The top of the form shows a row of boxes: Title and Registration, Title Only, Registration Only, Duplicate Title, Add Lien, Dismantle, and Salvage. This is where you tell MVD what you actually want to do with the vehicle.

To answer it, check the box that matches your goal. For a salvage certificate, you check Salvage. If you also want to register a restored vehicle, you may check Title and Registration together with your other paperwork.

For example, Diego Ramirez bought a wrecked pickup at auction and checks only the Salvage box because he is not ready to register it yet. He wants the salvage certificate in his name first.

A common edge case is the restored salvage filer who has already passed inspection. That person often checks Title and Registration so the vehicle can go straight onto the road with plates.

The most common mistake here is checking no box at all or checking two that conflict, such as Salvage and Dismantle. MVD cannot read your mind, so a blank or conflicting transaction type gets the form set aside, and you lose your place in line.

People wrongly believe the Salvage box turns a clean car into a salvage car by choice. It does not. The brand follows the vehicle’s history and the law, and checking the box only records a status the facts already created.

2. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This box asks for the unique 17-character code that identifies your exact vehicle. It is the single most important entry on the entire form.

Enter the VIN exactly as it appears on the dashboard plate and the title, with no spaces and no dashes. Double-check every character, because a 0 and an O or a 1 and an I are easy to confuse.

For example, Maria Lopez writes 1HGCM82633A004352 in the VIN box, copying it straight from her door-jamb sticker. She reads it back twice to be sure.

If the VIN is missing, damaged, or looks altered, the VIN inspection rules on AZ MVD Now require a Level III check, and ADOT may assign a new Arizona VIN for a $5.00 fee. This is common on older salvage vehicles where the plate was destroyed in the wreck.

The most common mistake is transposing two digits, which makes the VIN fail to match state and national databases. That triggers an automatic hold while MVD investigates whether the vehicle is stolen.

Many people think the short VIN on the registration card is enough. It is not. You must use the full 17-character VIN, or the title cannot be issued.

3. Year, Make, Model, and Body Style

These fields ask for the basic identity of the vehicle: its model year, the manufacturer, the model name, and the body type. Together they describe what kind of vehicle you are titling.

Fill them in to match the title and the manufacturer’s records exactly. Write the four-digit year, the make as the brand name, the model as printed, and the body style such as sedan, pickup, or SUV.

For example, Diego enters 2015, FORD, F-150, and PICKUP for his auction truck. He copies the model year from the prior title, not from a guess.

An edge case appears with specially constructed or reconstructed vehicles. The form has a separate Vehicle Construction area with Specially Constructed and Reconstructed boxes, and a heavily rebuilt salvage vehicle may need one of those checked.

The most common mistake is guessing the model year from the year you bought the car. That mismatch with the VIN decode flags the application, and MVD holds it until the conflict is cleared.

People often think the trim level goes in the Model box. It does not. MVD wants the base model name, and adding trim words can confuse the record.

4. GVW, Fuel, Plate Number, and List Price

This group captures the gross vehicle weight, the fuel type, any existing plate number, and the vehicle’s value. MVD uses these to set fees and to classify the vehicle.

Enter the GVW for trucks and trailers, the fuel type such as gas, diesel, or electric, the current plate number if one exists, and the list price or value in the dollar box. Leave the plate field blank if the vehicle has no plate.

For example, a flood-damaged Tesla owner writes ELECTRIC in the Fuel box and lists the salvage purchase price of $9,500 in the List Price field. The price helps MVD calculate any tax due.

An edge case is a salvage vehicle with no plate at all, which is common after a total loss. You simply leave the Plate Number box empty, and MVD assigns plates only when you register.

The most common mistake is inflating or lowballing the list price. A value far off from market can trigger a tax review and delay the title while MVD asks for proof of what you paid.

Some filers think the List Price means the original sticker price when new. It does not. For a salvage vehicle, it reflects current value or what you paid, which is usually far lower.

5. Odometer Reading and Mileage Status

This box asks how many miles are on the vehicle and whether that number is accurate. Federal and state law require an honest odometer statement at title transfer.

Write the mileage with no tenths, then check the matching status box: Actual Mileage, Mileage in excess of the odometer mechanical limits, or NOT Actual Mileage, WARNING – ODOMETER DISCREPANCY. Pick the one that tells the truth.

For example, Maria writes 142,860 and checks Actual Mileage because her odometer works and reflects real miles. She does not round up or down.

An edge case is a salvage vehicle whose cluster was destroyed in the wreck or swapped during the rebuild. If you cannot verify the miles, you check NOT Actual Mileage, which protects you legally.

The most common mistake is leaving the status box unchecked. A mileage number with no status box selected is incomplete, and MVD rejects the odometer statement, stalling the title.

People wrongly believe checking NOT Actual Mileage hurts the car’s value so they should avoid it. Avoiding the truth is worse, because a false odometer statement is fraud and can void the title and trigger penalties.

6. Vehicle Construction and Location

The Vehicle Construction area lets you flag a Specially Constructed or Reconstructed vehicle, and the Location area asks where the vehicle or mobile home is kept, by city, state, and zip. These help MVD classify the vehicle and route emissions rules.

Check a construction box only if it applies, then enter the city, state, and zip where the vehicle lives. Most restored salvage cars are not specially constructed, so you often leave those boxes blank.

For example, a rebuilder who welded two damaged frames into one running truck checks Reconstructed and writes MESA, AZ, 85204 in the Location fields. That flag tells inspectors to look closely.

An edge case is a kit car or dune buggy built from salvage parts, which would check Specially Constructed. These vehicles face extra inspection steps.

The most common mistake is checking Reconstructed on a normally repaired car. Over-flagging invites extra scrutiny you do not need and can slow the process.

Some people think the Location field is the same as their mailing address. It is not. Location is where the vehicle physically sits, which matters for emissions in Maricopa and Pima counties.

7. Sale Date and Exemption Options

This area records the date you bought the vehicle and any tax exemption you claim. The sale date starts the clock on Arizona’s titling deadline.

Enter the sale date in MM/DD/YYYY format and review the back page for Exemption Options before claiming one. Most private salvage buyers have no exemption and leave that part blank.

For example, Diego writes 05/20/2026 as his sale date and claims no exemption because he bought from a dealer at auction. He keeps his bill of sale as backup.

An edge case is a gift or family transfer, which may qualify for a tax exemption listed on page 2. You must match the exact exemption code, or MVD denies it.

The most common mistake is an old or missing sale date. Arizona expects you to title promptly, and a stale date can bring late fees and questions about why you waited.

People often think the sale date is the day they finished the repairs. It is not. It is the day ownership changed hands, which is what your bill of sale shows.

8. Lienholder Information

This block records anyone who holds a loan against the vehicle. The lienholder keeps an ownership interest until the loan is paid off.

Enter the Lienholder Name exactly, and if there is no loan, write NONE as the form instructs. Add the lien date, lien amount, and the Arizona ELT/EIN or driver license where asked.

For example, a buyer who financed the rebuild through a credit union writes the credit union’s full legal name and a lien amount of $6,000. A cash buyer simply writes NONE.

An edge case is more than one lien, where the form tells you to attach another application for the second lienholder. Cramming two liens into one box creates a defective record.

The most common mistake is leaving the lienholder box empty. A blank box is ambiguous, so MVD may assume an error and hold the file, while writing NONE is clear and clean.

Some filers think a private loan from a friend must be listed here. It does not unless that lender filed a formal lien with MVD. Only recorded liens belong in this box.

9. Legal Status (Or / And / And/Or)

This field decides how co-owners sign and who can transfer the vehicle later. You pick Or, And, or And/Or to set the ownership structure.

Check Or for joint tenancy where either owner can act alone, And for tenancy in common where both must sign, or And/Or for joint tenancy with right of survivorship. Solo owners can skip the choice.

For example, a married couple titling a rebuilt SUV together checks And/Or so the survivor can transfer the car without probate if one spouse dies. That choice protects them long term.

An edge case is the Or selection, where the form notes the lienholder must sign on the indicated line. Miss that signature and the lien record is invalid.

The most common mistake is checking nothing on a co-owned vehicle. With no legal status set, MVD cannot tell who must sign to sell the car later, which causes problems down the road.

People wrongly think Legal Status is just paperwork with no real effect. It is not. It controls survivorship and transfer rights, and the wrong pick can force a family into probate.

10. Owner / Company Name and Driver License or EIN

This block identifies the legal owner of the vehicle. It is the heart of who the title belongs to.

Enter the Owner/Company Name as it appears on your driver license or Social Security card, then your Driver License or EIN number and Date of Birth. Companies use a Federal EIN or MVD customer number.

For example, Maria Lopez writes her name as MARIA L LOPEZ and her Arizona driver license number D08123456, with a date of birth of 03/14/1985. She matches the name on her license exactly.

An edge case is a business titling a fleet salvage vehicle, which uses the company’s legal name and EIN instead of a personal license. The MVD Tax Account Number line applies to some businesses.

The most common mistake is a name that does not match your ID, such as using a nickname. A mismatch makes MVD cross-checks fail and triggers a hold on the title.

Some people think they can list whoever is paying for the car as the owner. They cannot. The owner must be the person or entity taking legal title, and the name must match official records.

11. Address Fields (Residential, Business, and Mailing)

These fields capture where you live and where MVD should send the title. The form asks for a residential or business address and a separate mailing address if it differs.

Enter your full physical street address with city, state, and zip, then a mailing address only if it is different. Check the One time mailing address box if you want the title sent somewhere just once.

For example, Diego lists his home at 742 W DESERT LN, MESA, AZ, 85201 and uses a P.O. Box as his mailing address so the title does not sit in an open mailbox. Both addresses are clear.

An edge case is a P.O. Box, which you can use for mailing but not as your residential address. MVD needs a physical location for the residential line.

The most common mistake is putting a P.O. Box in the residential field. That makes the record incomplete, since MVD must know the physical address for tax and emissions purposes.

People often think the mailing address is optional clutter. It is not. If your title goes to the wrong address, you may never receive it and will have to pay for a duplicate.

12. Phone, Email, and Owner/Company Signature

This final block collects your contact details and your signature, which certifies the whole application is true. The signature is what makes the form legally binding.

Enter your phone number and email, then sign the Owner/Company Signature line in ink. By signing, you certify that everything on the form, including the odometer reading, is true and correct.

For example, Maria signs her name in blue ink on the owner signature line after re-reading every box. She knows an unsigned form is worthless.

An edge case is a co-owned vehicle with an And legal status, where both owners must sign their own signature lines. One missing signature voids the transfer.

The most common mistake is forgetting to sign or signing the wrong line. An unsigned application is automatically rejected, no matter how perfect the rest of the form is.

Some people think a typed name counts as a signature on the printed form. It does not. MVD requires a wet ink signature on the paper application.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

These three walkthroughs follow common salvage filers through Form 96-0236 from top to bottom. Each shows what the person enters in the most important boxes.

Scenario A: Maria Rebuilds Her Own Totaled Honda Civic

Maria’s 2015 Honda Civic was totaled in a hailstorm, but she kept it, fixed the body and glass, and now wants a restored salvage title so she can drive it again.

Form Section	What Maria Enters
Transaction Type	Checks Salvage and Title and Registration
Vehicle Identification Number	1HGCM82633A004352
Year / Make / Model / Body	2015 / HONDA / CIVIC / SEDAN
Fuel / List Price	GAS / $7,200
Odometer Reading	142,860, checks Actual Mileage
Vehicle Construction	Leaves both boxes blank
Sale Date	Leaves blank, kept own vehicle
Lienholder Name	Writes NONE
Owner Name / DL	MARIA L LOPEZ / D08123456
Signature	Signs in blue ink

After the form, Maria books a $50 Level III inspection on AZ MVD Now and brings her repair receipts.

Scenario B: Diego Buys a Salvage Pickup at Auction

Diego is a part-time flipper who bought a wrecked 2015 Ford F-150 at a salvage auction and wants a salvage certificate in his own name before he rebuilds it.

Form Section	What Diego Enters
Transaction Type	Checks only Salvage
Vehicle Identification Number	1FTEW1EF5FFA12345
Year / Make / Model / Body	2015 / FORD / F-150 / PICKUP
GVW / Fuel	6,500 / GAS
Odometer Reading	98,300, checks Actual Mileage
List Price	$9,500
Sale Date	05/20/2026
Lienholder Name	Writes NONE
Owner Name / DL	DIEGO A RAMIREZ / D04987654
Mailing Address	Uses a P.O. Box

Diego keeps his auction bill of sale as proof of the sale date and value.

Scenario C: An Insurance Company Brands a Flood-Damaged SUV

After a monsoon flood, Desert State Insurance totals a 2019 Toyota Highlander, pays the claim, and must brand it salvage within the legal window.

Form Section	What the Insurer Enters
Transaction Type	Checks Salvage
Vehicle Identification Number	5TDJZRFH4KS998877
Year / Make / Model / Body	2019 / TOYOTA / HIGHLANDER / SUV
Fuel / List Price	GAS / $4,000
Odometer Reading	61,420, checks Actual Mileage
Sale Date	04/30/2026
Lienholder Name	Writes NONE
Owner / Company Name	DESERT STATE INSURANCE CO
Driver License or EIN	Federal EIN 86-1234567
Signature	Authorized agent signs

The insurer surrenders the prior title and files promptly to meet the deadline in ARS § 28-2091.

How to File the Completed Form

Arizona gives you a few ways to submit Form 96-0236, and the right one depends on whether you want a salvage certificate or a restored salvage title. Choose the channel that fits your situation, and always keep proof of what you filed.

In person at an MVD office or Authorized Third Party. This is the most common route for salvage and restored salvage filers. You bring the completed form, the surrendered title, your ID, and your receipts to any MVD office or ATP provider. You pay the $4.00 title fee plus registration fees by cash, check, or card depending on the office, processing often happens the same day, and you walk out with a receipt and printed title or temporary document.

The Level III inspection appointment. For a restored salvage title, the inspection is a required filing step, not optional. You schedule it on AZ MVD Now, drive the vehicle on a temporary registration to an ADOT Enforcement office such as Mesa, Glendale, Scottsdale, Phoenix, or Tucson, pay the $50.00 fee (plus $5.00 if an Arizona VIN is assigned), and the inspector verifies the motor, transmission, frame, and front and rear assemblies against your receipts. Keep the signed inspection result as proof.

By mail. You can mail the completed application and supporting documents to MVD, though salvage and restored salvage cases usually need the in-person inspection first, so mail works best for the paperwork stage. Include a check for the fees, send it with tracking, and keep the tracking number and a copy of everything as your proof of filing.

After you pass inspection and submit the form, you receive a restored salvage title that permanently carries the brand. Keep every receipt, the inspection paperwork, and your filing proof in one folder.

What Happens After You File

Once MVD accepts your form, surrendered title, and fees, it updates the state record and issues the branded title. For a salvage certificate, this can happen quickly because no inspection is required, often the same visit at an ATP. For a restored salvage title, the record updates only after you pass the Level III inspection.

The branded title arrives by mail to the address you listed, usually within a couple of weeks, though timing varies with MVD volume. If you used the wrong mailing address, the title can be lost, and you will need to apply for a duplicate, which costs more time and money. Watch your mailbox and confirm the address before you file.

The salvage or restored salvage brand stays on the title forever. Even after a perfect rebuild, Arizona keeps the Restored Salvage notation, and you must disclose it to any future buyer under ARS § 28-2091. This brand follows the VIN through national databases, so it shows up on vehicle history reports in every state.

If your application is rejected, MVD tells you why, and you fix the issue and refile. Common fixes include adding a missing signature, correcting a VIN, or supplying a receipt the inspector wanted. Each round trip adds delay, so it pays to get it right the first time.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form

Salvage applications fail for small, avoidable reasons. Watch for these specific errors and their consequences.

• Leaving the transaction type box unchecked. MVD cannot tell what you want and sets the form aside.
• Transposing a VIN digit. The vehicle fails database checks and the title is held for a possible theft review.
• Guessing the model year. A mismatch with the VIN decode flags the file and stalls processing.
• Forgetting to check an odometer status box. The odometer statement is incomplete and gets rejected.
• Leaving the lienholder box blank instead of writing NONE. The ambiguity makes MVD hold the application.
• Putting a P.O. Box in the residential address field. The record is incomplete and emissions routing fails.
• Skipping the owner signature. An unsigned form is automatically rejected no matter what else is correct.
• Showing up to the Level III inspection without parts receipts. The vehicle can fail and trigger a theft investigation.
• Driving the salvage car to inspection with no temporary registration. You risk a citation and an impound.
• Using an outdated version of Form 96-0236. Missing or moved fields cause MVD to bounce the application.
• Ignoring the emissions test in Maricopa or Pima County. Registration stalls until you produce a passing certificate.
• Inflating or lowballing the list price. A value far off market triggers a tax review and delay.

Do’s and Don’ts

These quick rules keep your salvage application clean and moving. Each one carries a clear reason.

Do’s

• Do download the current 96-0236 R03/26 form, because old versions get rejected for missing fields.
• Do copy the VIN character by character, because one wrong digit voids the application.
• Do write NONE in the lienholder box when there is no loan, because a blank box looks like an error.
• Do keep every parts receipt, because the Level III inspector verifies major components against them.
• Do book your inspection on AZ MVD Now early, because appointments fill and inspections are required for restored titles.
• Do sign in ink and review every box first, because an unsigned or wrong form wastes a whole trip.

Don’ts

• Don’t guess the odometer reading, because a false statement is fraud and can void the title.
• Don’t drive a salvage car without temporary registration, because you risk a ticket and an impound.
• Don’t use a P.O. Box as your residential address, because MVD needs your physical location.
• Don’t skip disclosing salvage history to a buyer, because ARS § 28-2091 makes that a violation.
• Don’t inflate the list price to look good, because it triggers a tax review and delay.
• Don’t assume your rebuild is exempt from emissions, because Maricopa and Pima County rules still apply.

Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help

You can file Form 96-0236 yourself or pay an Authorized Third Party to handle it. Weigh these points before you decide.

Pros of Filing on Your Own

• It is cheaper, because you avoid ATP service fees on top of the $4 title fee.
• You control the timeline, because you are not waiting on a third party’s schedule.
• You learn the process, which helps if you plan to rebuild more salvage vehicles.
• You keep your documents in hand, since nothing leaves your control.
• Online tools help, because AZ MVD Now lets you book the inspection yourself.

Cons of Filing on Your Own

• One small error stalls everything, since you have no expert to catch mistakes.
• You spend your own time, including trips to MVD and the inspection office.
• You may misread a field, like Legal Status, with long-term consequences.
• You handle the inspection prep alone, including gathering every parts receipt.
• Rejections cost more delay, because each refile adds weeks.

FAQs

Do I have to check the Salvage box at the top of Form 96-0236?

Yes. The Salvage box tells MVD you want a salvage transaction, and leaving it unchecked or checking a conflicting box like Dismantle gets your application set aside.

Do I write the lienholder box if I paid cash for the car?

No. Write NONE in the lienholder box when there is no loan, because a blank box looks like an error and can cause MVD to hold the file.

Do I need a Level III inspection for a salvage certificate?

No. A salvage certificate needs no inspection, but a restored salvage title requires a $50 Level III inspection verifying major parts before MVD issues it.

Do I put my P.O. Box in the residential address field?

No. Use your physical street address on the residential line and put the P.O. Box in the mailing field, because MVD needs your real location.

Do I need parts receipts for the inspection?

Yes. Bring receipts or invoices for all component parts, because the inspector verifies them to confirm parts were not stolen, and missing receipts can fail the inspection.

Do I have to disclose the salvage brand when I sell the car?

Yes. ARS § 28-2091 requires you to disclose salvage history before completing a sale, and failing to disclose is a violation.

Do I check an odometer status box even if the miles are accurate?

Yes. Always check a status box, choosing Actual Mileage when the reading is true, because a mileage number with no status box is incomplete and gets rejected.

Do I enter the full 17-character VIN or the short one?

Yes, use the full 17-character VIN exactly as shown on the dash and title, because the short registration VIN is not enough to issue a title.

Do I owe a fee just for the salvage title?

Yes. The title fee is $4.00 plus registration fees, and a restored salvage title adds the $50 Level III inspection cost.

Do I need an emissions test for a rebuilt salvage car?

Yes, if the vehicle is used in Maricopa or Pima County Air Quality Control Areas, because those areas require a passing emissions certificate before registration.

Do co-owners both have to sign the form?

Yes, when the Legal Status is And, both owners must sign, because tenancy in common requires both signatures to transfer the vehicle.

Do I need temporary registration to drive my salvage car to the inspection?

Yes. You need temporary registration to legally operate a salvage vehicle on a roadway, because driving it without one risks a citation and an impound.

Do I have to use the newest version of the form?

Yes, use the current 96-0236 R03/26, because older versions may have moved or missing fields that cause MVD to reject your application.

Do I list a private loan from a friend in the lienholder box?

No, only loans recorded as formal liens with MVD belong there, because an informal personal loan is not a recorded lien on the title.