How to Fill Out the Arkansas DFA Vehicle Registration Application (Form 10-381) + FAQs

The Arkansas Vehicle Registration Application, Form 10-381, is the single document that registers and titles a motor vehicle with the Arkansas Office of Motor Vehicle (OMV), a division of the Department of Finance and Administration (DFA). Anyone who buys a car, brings a vehicle from another state, or receives one as a gift or inheritance must file this form to put the vehicle in their name and get legal plates.

The form does double duty. It works as both your title application and your registration application, so one piece of paper turns a stranger’s car into your car in the eyes of the state. Arkansas law gives you only 30 days from the purchase or transfer date to file, and missing that window adds a penalty on top of your fees. With more than 2 million vehicles registered across Arkansas each year, small errors on this form are one of the top reasons a title gets held up at the revenue office counter.

Here is what you will learn in this guide:

  • 📋 What every box on Form 10-381 asks and exactly how to fill it in
  • 🚗 The documents and numbers to gather before you walk into the revenue office
  • 💰 How registration fees, taxes, and the 30-day penalty are calculated
  • ✅ Three full walkthroughs for buying new, buying used, and moving from out of state
  • ❓ Field-level answers to the questions that stall filers at the counter

This guide uses Form 10-381, revision date 12-30-2019, the version posted on the official DFA website. Check the revision line in the bottom-left corner of your form to confirm you have the same one before you start.

What the Form Is and Who Must File It

Form 10-381 is the official application the Arkansas OMV uses to record who owns a vehicle and to issue a license plate and registration. The form is required under Arkansas Code Title 27, the chapters that govern motor vehicle titling and registration. The OMV examines every application for accuracy, then enters the vehicle into the state database and prints the title and registration.

In plain English, the statute means the state will not legally recognize you as the owner until this form is processed. If you ignore the rule and drive on expired or missing tags, you risk a citation, late penalties, and trouble selling the car later because the title still shows the old owner. For example, James Carter buys a truck from his neighbor but never files Form 10-381; two years later he cannot sell it because the title is still in his neighbor’s name and the neighbor has moved away.

A common misconception is that signing the back of a title is enough to make a car yours. It is not. The signed title only transfers the paper; the OMV does not change its records until Form 10-381 is filed and accepted at a State Revenue Office.

You must file this form if you bought a vehicle from a dealer or private seller, moved to Arkansas with an out-of-state vehicle, or received a vehicle through gift, inheritance, or a family transfer. Businesses registering company vehicles use the same form. The only common case that skips it is a simple renewal of tags you already hold, which you can handle through MyDMV online.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

Gather everything below before you open the form. Arriving at the revenue office with a missing document is the number one cause of a wasted trip, because the agent cannot process an incomplete file. Use this pre-filing checklist:

  1. Proof of ownership — the signed-over title (used private sale) or the Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin, or MCO (new dealer purchase). Without it, the OMV has no proof you own the car and will refuse the application.
  2. Bill of Sale and Odometer Disclosure, Form 10-313 — proves the sale price and mileage. A missing bill of sale can change how much sales tax you owe.
  3. Proof of Arkansas auto insurance — a current insurance card. No insurance means no plate, by law.
  4. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) — copy it exactly from the dash or door jamb. One wrong digit creates a title that does not match the car.
  5. Personal Property Assessment proof — a paper from your county assessor showing the vehicle is assessed for the current year. The OMV will not register a car that is not assessed.
  6. Paid personal property tax receipt — proof you paid last year’s county taxes. Unpaid taxes block the registration outright.
  7. Sales tax payment — Arkansas charges state and local sales tax on the purchase price; you pay it at the time of registration if not already paid.
  8. Lien agreement — a signed copy of your loan or security agreement if you financed the vehicle. Without it the lienholder cannot be recorded, which can violate your loan terms.
  9. Odometer reading — the current mileage, needed for vehicles less than 10 years old.
  10. Payment for fees — cash, check, or card depending on the office.

Skipping any one of these items usually means the agent hands your file back and tells you to return. Maria Delgado once drove an hour to the office only to learn her car was never assessed; she had to visit the assessor first and come back another day.

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

You can get Form 10-381 in three ways. The fastest is to download the official PDF from the DFA Motor Vehicle Forms page and print it at home. Some browsers have a built-in PDF viewer that will not let you fill or print the form correctly, so use Adobe Reader or download the file first if the boxes look blank.

You can also pick up a blank copy at any State Revenue Office. Many filers prefer this because an agent is on hand to answer questions while they write. The form is the same paper either way.

For most new registrations, the form is completed in person at the revenue office, since you must hand over the title, proof of insurance, and tax documents at the same time. Routine renewals and some title tasks can be done through the MyDMV portal, but a brand-new title and plate generally still run through the paper Form 10-381 at the counter. Keep a copy of the blank form so you can practice the harder boxes, such as the weight and use code fields, before you write your final answers.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form 10-381 Line by Line

The form is dense and uses short box labels, so this section walks through each field and group of fields in the order they appear, using the exact labels printed on the 12-30-2019 version. Print clearly in blue or black ink and use all capital letters where you can. Leave a box blank only when the instructions below say it does not apply to you.

TRANSACTION TYPE, LICENSE NO., INV. TYPE, USE CODE

These top boxes tell the OMV what kind of action you are requesting and how the vehicle is used. TRANSACTION TYPE marks whether this is a new title and registration, a transfer, or a renewal. The USE CODE tells the state if the vehicle is private (passenger) or commercial.

To answer, most private buyers leave the office-coded boxes for the agent and simply note that this is a new registration and title. The USE CODE for a normal family car is the private/passenger code, which the agent confirms. For example, Tara Nguyen registering her personal sedan is marked with the standard private-use code.

A nuance: if you bought a truck you will use for a business, the use code changes and so does the fee, so tell the agent up front. A common mistake is guessing the code and marking a vehicle commercial when it is personal, which can raise your fee and require extra paperwork. The misconception here is that these boxes are yours to fill freely; in practice the LICENSE NO., INV. TYPE, and several coded boxes are completed by the revenue agent, so do not invent values.

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN)

This box asks for the 17-character VIN, the unique fingerprint of your vehicle. It is the single most important entry on the form because the state ties the title to this number, not to the make or model.

To answer, copy the VIN exactly from the lower corner of the windshield or the driver door jamb, including every letter and number, in capital letters with no spaces. For example, Tara Nguyen writes 1HGCM82633A004352 exactly as it reads on her door sticker.

A nuance: VINs never contain the letters I, O, or Q, so if you think you see one, it is really a 1 or a 0; double-check. A common mistake is transposing two characters, which produces a title for a vehicle that does not exist and forces a correction trip later. The misconception is that the dealer or seller already entered it correctly, so you do not need to check; always verify the VIN on the form against the metal plate on the car.

YEAR, MAKE, MODEL, BODY, CYL, COLOR, FUEL

These boxes describe the vehicle in plain terms. YEAR is the model year, MAKE is the manufacturer, MODEL is the specific name, BODY is the body style, CYL is the number of cylinders, COLOR is the main color, and FUEL is the fuel type.

To answer, pull these straight from the title or MCO so they match state records, and use short standard terms. For example, Tara Nguyen enters 2020, HONDA, ACCORD, 4D for four-door, 4 cylinders, SILVER, and GAS.

A nuance: for an electric car the FUEL box should read ELECTRIC and for a plug-in it should read HYBRID, which matters because Arkansas charges extra annual fees on EVs and hybrids. A common mistake is listing a custom paint color that does not match the title, which can slow the match against the seller’s record. The misconception is that body style is cosmetic; the OMV uses BODY to classify the vehicle, so use the term shown on the title, such as 4D, 2D, or PK for pickup.

UNLADEN WT, GROSS WT, DSP, AXLES

These boxes capture the vehicle’s weight and drivetrain, which directly set your registration fee. UNLADEN WT is the empty weight of the vehicle, GROSS WT is the loaded weight used for trucks, DSP is engine displacement, and AXLES is the number of axles.

To answer, take the unladen weight from the title, the manufacturer’s label, or the owner’s manual, and round to the whole pound. For example, Tara Nguyen writes 3,131 in UNLADEN WT because her Accord weighs that empty, which places her in the under-3,500-pound car fee tier.

A nuance: passenger car fees are set by weight tiers, so cars up to 3,500 pounds pay one rate and heavier cars pay more, per the Arkansas plate fee chart. A common mistake is leaving UNLADEN WT blank, which stops the agent from calculating the fee and stalls the whole application. The misconception is that GROSS WT matters for a normal car; for a standard passenger vehicle it is the unladen weight that drives the fee, while gross weight mainly affects trucks.

PREVIOUS TITLE NO., TITLE CODE, PUR. TYPE, PUR. DATE, DEALER

These boxes trace where the vehicle came from. PREVIOUS TITLE NO. is the prior title number, PUR. TYPE is how you got the vehicle, PUR. DATE is the date of sale or transfer, and DEALER marks a dealer sale.

To answer, copy the previous title number from the title you received, mark PUR. TYPE to show new, used, gift, or inheritance, and write PUR. DATE in MM/DD/YYYY format. For example, Marcus Reed buying a used car on March 14, 2026 writes 03/14/2026 in PUR. DATE.

A nuance: the PUR. DATE starts your 30-day clock, so it must be the true transfer date, not the day you visit the office. A common mistake is writing a later, more convenient date to dodge a penalty, which is a false statement on a state form and can void the application. The misconception is that PREVIOUS TITLE NO. does not apply to a brand-new car; for a new dealer vehicle you use the MCO instead of a previous title, and the agent notes that.

OD CODE and OD READING

These two boxes record the odometer. OD CODE flags the status of the reading, such as actual miles or not actual, and OD READING is the mileage number.

To answer, write the current mileage shown on the dash in OD READING with no commas needed, and let the agent set the OD CODE. For example, Marcus Reed enters 48215 for a car showing 48,215 miles.

A nuance: federal law requires an odometer disclosure for vehicles less than 10 years old, which is why this matches the back of the title or Form 10-313. A common mistake is rounding the mileage, which creates a mismatch with the title disclosure and can flag the title as inaccurate. The misconception is that mileage does not matter for older cars; while disclosure is waived past 10 years, the OMV may still record the reading, so write the true number.

CHECK IF APPLICABLE: DAMAGE, PREV. DAMAGE, LEASE, PRORATE, PENALTY, MAIL

This row holds checkboxes for special situations. DAMAGE and PREV. DAMAGE flag salvage or prior damage, LEASE marks a leased vehicle, PRORATE applies to certain commercial fleets, PENALTY marks a late filing, and MAIL indicates a mailed transaction.

To answer, check only the boxes that fit your situation and leave the rest blank. For example, Olivia Banks, who is past her 30-day window, will have the PENALTY box checked so the late fee is added.

A nuance: if you bought a vehicle out of state carrying a salvage brand, you must provide VIN verification, and the DAMAGE flag will apply. A common mistake is checking LEASE for a financed car; a loan is not a lease, and the wrong flag changes who is recorded as owner. The misconception is that checking PENALTY is optional; if you are late, the penalty applies whether or not you mark it, and the agent will add it.

OWNER NAME (LAST, FIRST), REL, COMPANY

This block records who owns the vehicle. LAST and FIRST capture each owner’s legal name, REL shows the relationship between co-owners, and COMPANY is used when a business owns the vehicle.

To answer, write your full legal name exactly as it appears on your driver’s license, last name first. For example, Reed, Marcus goes in the owner line, and if his wife is a co-owner she is listed on the second line with the REL code for spouse.

A nuance: how you list two owners matters; “or” between names lets either person sell alone, while “and” requires both signatures, so tell the agent which you want. A common mistake is using a nickname or maiden name that does not match your license, which the OMV cross-checks and which can hold the title. The misconception is that a married couple is automatically joined; you must list both names on the form to make both legal owners.

ARKANSAS ADDRESS, TITLE MAILING ADDRESS, RENEWAL MAILING ADDRESS

The form has three address blocks. ARKANSAS ADDRESS is your physical Arkansas residence, TITLE MAILING ADDRESS is where the paper title is sent, and RENEWAL MAILING ADDRESS is where future renewal notices go.

To answer, write your street address, city, AR, and ZIP in each block, and you may repeat the same address in all three if they are the same. For example, Marcus Reed writes 123 OAK ST, CONWAY, AR, 72032 in all three blocks.

A nuance: if you use a P.O. Box for mail, the ARKANSAS ADDRESS must still show a physical street location because the state needs your true residence for the correct county tax, but the mailing blocks can use the P.O. Box. A common mistake is leaving the renewal address blank, which sends your renewal notice to the wrong place and risks a missed renewal. The misconception is that all three must match; they can differ, which is useful if you want the title mailed to your lender or a different address.

FIRST LIENHOLDER and SECOND LIENHOLDER (with CONTRACT DATE)

These blocks record anyone who has a financial claim on the vehicle, usually a lender. FIRST LIENHOLDER is your main lender’s name and address, SECOND LIENHOLDER covers a rare second loan, and CONTRACT DATE is the date you signed the loan.

To answer, copy the lender’s exact legal name and address from your loan paperwork and write the contract date in MM/DD/YYYY format. For example, Marcus Reed, who financed through a credit union, writes CENTRAL ARKANSAS FCU with its address and a contract date of 03/14/2026.

A nuance: the lienholder address must match the loan documents so the title is mailed to the correct office. A common mistake is leaving this blank on a financed car, which fails to record the lien and can put you in default of your loan agreement. The misconception is that paying cash means you skip it; if you truly paid cash with no loan, you leave it blank, but never list yourself here as your own lienholder.

FEE BOXES: REGISTRATION FEE, TITLE FEE, LIEN FEE, PENALTY, POSTAGE, TOTAL REG. FEES

The right column holds the money boxes, including REGISTRATION FEE, REPLACEMENT FEE, TRANSFER FEE, TITLE FEE, LIEN FEE, PENALTY, POSTAGE, and TOTAL REG. FEES. These are calculated and entered by the revenue agent, not by you.

To answer, leave these boxes blank and let the agent compute them based on your weight, use code, and dates. For example, Tara Nguyen’s under-3,500-pound car draws a $17 registration fee, plus a $10 title fee, which the agent totals in TOTAL REG. FEES.

A nuance: the TITLE FEE is a flat charge for issuing the new title, while the REGISTRATION FEE is the weight-based plate charge, and PENALTY is added only if you are late. A common mistake is filling in your own guessed amounts, which conflicts with the agent’s calculation and creates confusion. The misconception is that the price is one flat fee; in reality your total is built from several separate charges, plus sales tax handled on a separate receipt.

SIGNATURE OF OWNER(S) and SIGNATURE OF LIENHOLDER

The bottom of the form is where you make the application official. SIGNATURE OF OWNER(S) is signed by every person listed as an owner, and SIGNATURE OF LIENHOLDER is signed by the lender when required.

To answer, sign in ink exactly as your name appears in the owner block, and have any co-owner sign too. For example, both Marcus Reed and his wife sign because both are listed as owners with the “and” relationship.

A nuance: do not sign until you have reviewed every box, because your signature certifies that all the information is true under penalty of law. A common mistake is one spouse signing for both, which is not valid when both are listed as owners and will be rejected. The misconception is that the signature is a formality; it is a legal statement, and false information on it can lead to penalties beyond a simple denial.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

These walkthroughs follow three common filers through the most important boxes of Form 10-381 so you can see what real answers look like.

Scenario 1: Tara Nguyen buys a new car from an Arkansas dealer. Tara buys a 2020 Honda Accord new and registers it within 30 days.

Form Section What Tara Enters
TRANSACTION TYPE / USE CODE New title and registration, private passenger use
VIN 1HGCM82633A004352
YEAR / MAKE / MODEL / BODY 2020 / HONDA / ACCORD / 4D
FUEL / CYL / COLOR GAS / 4 / SILVER
UNLADEN WT 3,131
PUR. TYPE / PUR. DATE / DEALER New, 05/20/2026, dealer box marked
OD READING 12
OWNER NAME (LAST, FIRST) NGUYEN, TARA
ARKANSAS ADDRESS 45 PINE ST, LITTLE ROCK, AR 72201
FIRST LIENHOLDER Left blank (paid cash)
SIGNATURE OF OWNER(S) Tara signs in ink

Scenario 2: Marcus Reed buys a financed used car from a private seller. Marcus buys a used sedan, finances it through a credit union, and files within the 30-day window.

Form Section What Marcus Enters
TRANSACTION TYPE / USE CODE New title and registration, private passenger use
VIN 2T1BURHE0JC123456
YEAR / MAKE / MODEL / BODY 2018 / TOYOTA / COROLLA / 4D
UNLADEN WT 2,910
PREVIOUS TITLE NO. Number from seller’s signed title
PUR. TYPE / PUR. DATE Used, 03/14/2026
OD READING 48215
OWNER NAME (LAST, FIRST) REED, MARCUS
ARKANSAS ADDRESS 123 OAK ST, CONWAY, AR 72032
FIRST LIENHOLDER / CONTRACT DATE CENTRAL ARKANSAS FCU / 03/14/2026
SIGNATURE OF OWNER(S) Marcus signs in ink

Scenario 3: Olivia Banks moves to Arkansas with an out-of-state car. Olivia relocates from Texas, must assess her vehicle, and files past 30 days, so a penalty applies.

Form Section What Olivia Enters
TRANSACTION TYPE / USE CODE New title and registration, private passenger use
VIN 5XYKT3A12CG987654
YEAR / MAKE / MODEL / BODY 2012 / KIA / SORENTO / SW
FUEL / UNLADEN WT GAS / 3,784
PREVIOUS TITLE NO. Number from her Texas title
PUR. TYPE / PUR. DATE Used, original Texas purchase date
OD READING 96540
CHECK IF APPLICABLE PENALTY box marked (late)
OWNER NAME (LAST, FIRST) BANKS, OLIVIA
ARKANSAS ADDRESS 78 MAPLE AVE, FAYETTEVILLE, AR 72701
SIGNATURE OF OWNER(S) Olivia signs in ink

How to File the Completed Form

Most new registrations are filed in person because you must hand over original documents at the same time. Here is how each channel works.

In person at a State Revenue Office. Visit any State Revenue Office, submit Form 10-381 with your title or MCO, bill of sale, proof of insurance, assessment, and paid tax receipt, then pay your fees. Offices accept cash, check, and usually debit or credit cards, though card fees may apply. Processing is typically same day; you leave with your plate and registration. Keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing.

Online through MyDMV. For renewals and certain title tasks, use the MyDMV portal. You enter your information, upload documents, and pay fees by card online. Processing takes longer because your plate and registration arrive by mail, and your title is not mailed until all documents are received and reviewed. Save the email confirmation as your proof of filing.

By phone or mail. Routine tag renewals can be done by phone or by mailing the renewal notice with payment to the address on the notice, as described on the Vehicle Tag Renewal page. Mail your payment to the Department of Finance & Administration, P.O. Box 1272, Little Rock, AR 72203. Keep a copy of everything you send and your cancelled check or card statement as proof.

A Title Purpose Only Certificate cannot be registered online and does not issue a plate, so that case must go through the office.

What Happens After You File

Once the agent accepts your Form 10-381 and payment, the OMV enters your vehicle into the state database and issues your license plate and registration on the spot for in-person filings. You drive away legally tagged the same day. Your paper title is then printed and mailed to you, or to your lienholder if you financed the car.

If you filed online, you receive an email about your title status, and your plate and registration arrive by mail after the documents are reviewed. The title is held until every required document is received, so a missing item delays the mailing. Watch your email and mailbox so you do not miss a request for more information.

If a lien is recorded, the lender holds the title until you pay off the loan, at which point the lien is released and the clear title comes to you. Keep your registration in the vehicle at all times, since law enforcement can ask to see it. Mark your calendar for the renewal month printed on your decal so you do not lapse.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form

  • Writing the VIN with one wrong character creates a title for a different vehicle and forces a correction trip.
  • Leaving UNLADEN WT blank stops the agent from calculating your fee and stalls the application.
  • Listing a nickname instead of your legal name triggers a mismatch with your license and holds the title.
  • Backdating the PUR. DATE to dodge a penalty is a false statement that can void the application.
  • Skipping the assessment step at your county assessor blocks registration entirely.
  • Failing to pay prior personal property taxes stops the OMV from registering the vehicle.
  • Forgetting proof of insurance means no plate is issued, since insurance is required by law.
  • Leaving the FIRST LIENHOLDER block blank on a financed car fails to record the lien and may breach your loan.
  • Filing after the 30-day window without expecting the PENALTY leads to a surprise late fee.
  • Having only one co-owner sign when two are listed gets the form rejected at the counter.
  • Rounding the odometer reading creates a mismatch with the title disclosure.
  • Using a P.O. Box in the ARKANSAS ADDRESS block can route you to the wrong county tax.

Do’s and Don’ts

Do’s

  • Do verify the VIN on the form against the metal plate on the car, because the title is tied to that number.
  • Do gather all documents first, since one missing item means a wasted trip.
  • Do assess your vehicle and pay county taxes before you go, because both are required to register.
  • Do file within 30 days of the purchase date to avoid a penalty.
  • Do print in capital letters in ink so the agent can read every box.
  • Do keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing in case of a dispute.

Don’ts

  • Don’t guess at the coded boxes like LICENSE NO. or INV. TYPE, since the agent fills those.
  • Don’t sign the form until you have checked every entry, because your signature certifies the truth.
  • Don’t list yourself as your own lienholder, which confuses the title record.
  • Don’t use a maiden name or nickname that differs from your license.
  • Don’t drive on the new car without insurance and tags, which risks a citation.
  • Don’t throw away the bill of sale, because it sets your sales tax amount.

Pros and Cons of Filing in Person vs. Online

Filing In Person (Form 10-381 at the office) Filing Online (MyDMV)
Pro: An agent reviews your form and catches errors on the spot. Pro: You file from home with no line, available any hour.
Pro: You usually walk out with your plate the same day. Pro: Payment and document upload happen in one session.
Pro: You can ask questions about weight, use code, and fees live. Pro: Convenient for simple renewals without document changes.
Pro: Cash, check, and card are all accepted. Pro: Confirmation email gives a clear digital paper trail.
Con: You may wait in a long line at the counter. Con: Your plate and title arrive by mail, not instantly.
Con: Office hours limit when you can go. Con: The title is held until all documents are reviewed.
Con: A missing document sends you home empty-handed. Con: New titles and Title Purpose Only cases often cannot be done online.

FAQs

Do I need to file Form 10-381 if I only renew my existing tags?

No. A simple renewal with no ownership change can be done online, by phone, or by mail through MyDMV, so you skip the full application form.

Do I have to register within a set time after buying a car?

Yes. Arkansas gives you 30 days from the purchase or transfer date to title and register the vehicle, and filing late adds a penalty to your fees.

Do I write my UNLADEN WT or GROSS WT for a normal car?

Yes. For a passenger car, the UNLADEN WT (empty weight) sets your fee, while GROSS WT mainly applies to trucks, so fill in the unladen weight.

Do I fill in the LICENSE NO. and fee boxes myself?

No. The revenue agent completes the coded boxes like LICENSE NO., INV. TYPE, and all fee fields, so leave those blank and let the agent calculate.

Do I list my maiden name or my current legal name in the OWNER NAME box?

No. Use the legal name exactly as printed on your driver’s license, because the OMV cross-checks the name and a mismatch holds your title.

Do I need to assess my vehicle before registering?

Yes. You must show proof from your county assessor that the vehicle is assessed for the current year, or the OMV will not register it.

Do I have to pay sales tax when I register?

Yes. Arkansas charges state and local sales tax on the purchase price, paid at registration if not already paid, recorded on a separate sales tax receipt.

Do I check the LEASE box if I financed my car with a loan?

No. A loan is not a lease; leave LEASE unchecked and instead list your lender in the FIRST LIENHOLDER block.

Do I write the odometer reading for a car over 10 years old?

Yes. Even though federal disclosure is waived past 10 years, write the true mileage in OD READING, because the OMV may still record it.

Do all three address blocks have to match?

No. The ARKANSAS ADDRESS, TITLE MAILING ADDRESS, and RENEWAL MAILING ADDRESS can differ, which lets you mail the title to a lender or a separate address.

Do electric and hybrid vehicles pay extra fees in Arkansas?

Yes. Arkansas charges an additional annual fee on electric and hybrid vehicles on top of the standard weight-based registration fee, so mark FUEL correctly.

Do I need proof of insurance to register my vehicle?

Yes. Current Arkansas auto insurance is required by law, and the OMV will not issue a plate without proof of coverage at the time of filing.

Do I owe a penalty if I register more than 30 days after buying?

Yes. A late penalty is added once you pass the 30-day window, and the agent applies it whether or not you check the PENALTY box.

Can I register a brand-new dealer car without a previous title number?

Yes. A new vehicle uses the Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin instead of a previous title, so the PREVIOUS TITLE NO. box is handled differently by the agent.