How to Fill Out the California Repossession Title (REG 168) + FAQs

The Certification of Lien Sale (REG 168) is the California DMV form a lienholder files to prove a vehicle worth more than $4,000 went through a lawful lien sale, which is the legal path to take title from a defaulting owner and resell or keep the car. You file it with the California DMV along with the supporting paperwork that lets DMV transfer ownership out of the registered owner’s name and into the buyer’s or your own.

Getting this form wrong is costly. California processes tens of thousands of lien sales each year, and a single missed deadline or wrong date can void the entire sale, force you to start over, and expose you to a lawsuit from the former owner. This guide walks you through every line of the REG 168, the strict notice windows set by California Civil Code 3068, and the related forms (REG 168A and REG 119) so you finish the job once and finish it right.

  • ๐Ÿ“‹ How to fill out every box on the REG 168, line by line, in plain English
  • โฑ๏ธ The exact notice and waiting periods that make or break your lien sale
  • ๐Ÿงพ Which documents and forms must travel with your REG 168 to the DMV
  • ๐Ÿš— Three full real-world walkthroughs for finance companies, repair shops, and self-storage lots
  • โš ๏ธ The 10+ filing mistakes that void sales and how to dodge each one

What the REG 168 Is and Who Must File It

The REG 168 is the Certification of Lien Sale. It certifies, under penalty of perjury, that a vehicle valued over $4,000 completed the full lien sale process, including the authorization request, the required notices, and the public sale itself. The form is the legal bridge that lets the DMV move ownership away from the registered owner without that person’s signature on the title.

You file this form when you hold a lien on a vehicle and the owner has not paid. The most common filers are repair shops (mechanic’s liens), self-storage facilities and tow yards (storage liens), and finance companies. A lienholder must use the REG 168 only when the vehicle’s value tops $4,000. Vehicles valued at $4,000 or less use the shorter Certification of Lien Sale (REG 168A) instead.

Do not confuse a lien sale with a repossession. A bank or credit union that financed a car and is named as the legal owner on the title repossesses it using the Certificate of Repossession (REG 119), not the REG 168. The REG 168 is for service providers who gained a lien by working on, towing, or storing the vehicle and were never the financing legal owner.

The agency that receives the form is the DMV. The statute that governs the process is Civil Code sections 3067 through 3074. The deadline that controls everything is the notice window tied to the date you obtained authorization to sell. The penalty for ignoring these rules is severe: the sale is invalid, the buyer gets no clear title, and the former owner can sue you for wrongful sale and recover the vehicle.

Always check the revision date printed in the lower corner of the form against the current version on the DMV site before you write a word, because the DMV updates the layout and box numbers from time to time. Using an outdated form is one of the fastest ways to get a packet rejected.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

Gather everything before you open the form. A lien sale fails more often from missing paperwork than from a wrong checkbox, and you cannot fix a missed certified-mail receipt after the fact. Here is the pre-filing checklist of items to collect.

  • The Authorization to Conduct a Lien Sale (the DMV “Lien Sale Authorization”). You must apply for and receive authorization before any sale; without it the entire sale is void and unfixable.
  • Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). The DMV cross-checks the VIN against its records, and a single wrong digit holds up the transfer.
  • License plate number and the year, make, and model. These confirm you are selling the exact vehicle on file, and a mismatch triggers a manual review.
  • Names and addresses of the registered owner and legal owner. You pulled these from a DMV record search; using stale addresses means your notices never legally land.
  • Proof of your lien. A repair order, storage contract, or tow invoice shows the lien is real, and missing it lets the owner challenge the debt.
  • Certified mail receipts and return receipts. These prove you mailed the required notices on time, and without them you cannot show the sale was lawful.
  • The date you obtained the vehicle and the lien amount owed. These fix your timeline and the money owed, and errors here invite a dispute over proceeds.
  • A completed Application for Title or Registration (REG 343). This is the form that actually moves title to the buyer, and the REG 168 cannot transfer ownership by itself.
  • Smog certification (if required) and the transfer/lien sale fees. Missing smog or fees stalls the title even when the lien sale paperwork is perfect.

Confirm the vehicle’s value first, because the $4,000 threshold decides whether you use the REG 168 (over $4,000) or the REG 168A (at or below $4,000). Use this quick comparison.

REG 168 (Over $4,000) REG 168A ($4,000 or Less)
For vehicles valued over $4,000 For vehicles valued $4,000 or less
Requires DMV-issued authorization to sell Lienholder may self-certify, no DMV authorization fee in many cases
Longer notice and posting requirements Streamlined notice process
Used by repair shops, storage lots, tow firms Used for low-value abandoned or stored vehicles
Filed with REG 343 to transfer title Filed with REG 343 or REG 42 (dismantle)

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

You get the official REG 168 from the DMV. Download the current PDF from the DMV forms library, where it is listed under “Title” as the Certification of Lien Sale. Always pull the form fresh from the DMV site rather than reusing an old saved copy, because the revision date matters and a superseded version can get your packet bounced.

You can also pick up a paper copy at any DMV field office, though supplies vary and the online PDF is the reliable source. Registration services and DMV business partners often keep the form on hand too, but the file you fill in should still be the current DMV version.

The REG 168 is part of a packet, not a standalone filing. Before you can even use it, you must first request authorization to conduct the lien sale through the DMV’s lien sale process described in the Vehicle Industry Registration Procedures Manual, Chapter 18. That chapter spells out the rules for vehicles valued over $4,000 and is the official playbook DMV staff follow when they review your filing.

Fill the form in dark ink or type it. Print one clean copy, sign it where required, and keep a full copy of the entire packet for your records. You will need that copy if the former owner disputes the sale or if the DMV asks for clarification later.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the REG 168 Line by Line

Work through the form in the order the boxes appear. Use UPPERCASE letters, write dates as MM/DD/YYYY, and match every name and number to the DMV record exactly. Below, each field gets its own walkthrough.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This box asks for the full VIN of the vehicle you sold at the lien sale. Copy the VIN exactly from the DMV title record or the vehicle itself, all 17 characters, with no spaces or dashes. For example, Coastline Auto Repair writes 1HGCM82633A004352 in the VIN box.

The VIN is how the DMV finds the right vehicle in its database, so it must match to the character. If the vehicle is older and has a shorter VIN, enter it exactly as it appears on the record rather than padding it. A common mistake is transposing two characters, such as writing a 0 where the record shows the letter O, which holds the transfer and forces a manual correction. Many filers wrongly believe the license plate alone identifies the car, but the DMV keys the transfer to the VIN first, so this box is the anchor of the whole form.

License Plate or Vessel CF Number

This box asks for the current California license plate number, or the CF number if the property is a vessel. Enter the plate exactly as issued, including any letters and numbers in order. For example, Coastline Auto Repair enters 7ABC123 for the sedan it sold.

If the vehicle has no plates or the plates were lost, note that in the box or attach an explanation, because a blank field can stall review. A frequent error is entering an old or surrendered plate number, which will not match the active record and triggers a hold. People often assume the plate is optional once they have the VIN, but the DMV uses both to confirm identity, and skipping it slows your file.

Year, Make, and Model

This field asks for the vehicle’s model year, manufacturer, and model name. Enter them in plain terms that match the DMV record, such as the four-digit year, the make, and the model. For example, Coastline Auto Repair writes 2003 HONDA ACCORD in this field.

Use the make as the DMV records it, not a nickname or trim level, so the system matches cleanly. If you are unsure of the exact model, pull it from the title record rather than guessing. A common mistake is listing the wrong year, which can change the vehicle’s value and even push it across the $4,000 line into the wrong form. Filers sometimes think small description differences do not matter, but a mismatch here can flag the file for fraud review.

Name and Address of Legal Owner and Registered Owner

This section asks for the names and mailing addresses of the registered owner (R/O) and the legal owner (L/O) as shown on the DMV record. Write each name in full and copy the address exactly from the record you searched. For example, Coastline Auto Repair lists registered owner Daniel Pham, 482 Oak Street, San Jose, CA 95112.

Use the address on file even if you suspect the person moved, because the law ties valid notice to the address of record. If there is a separate legal owner, such as a bank, list it too so the DMV knows every interest holder was on notice. A serious mistake is leaving the legal owner blank when one exists, which means a lienholder never got notice and can void the sale. Many filers wrongly think notifying only the driver is enough, but every R/O and L/O of record must be notified for the sale to stand.

Certification of the Lien Sale Process

This is the core certification block. By signing here you swear that the lien sale followed the law, including the proper authorization, the required notices to all interested parties, and the public sale itself. Read the printed certification language carefully before you sign, because you are signing under penalty of perjury.

The block confirms key dates: when you obtained authorization, when you mailed notices, and the date of sale. Enter each date as MM/DD/YYYY and make sure they line up with your certified mail receipts. For example, Coastline Auto Repair certifies the notice was mailed 02/10/2026 and the sale occurred 03/05/2026, leaving the required notice window between them.

A common mistake is listing a sale date that falls before the notice period closes, which proves on the form’s face that you sold too early and invalidates the sale. Filers often misbelieve that signing is a formality, but this certification is a sworn legal statement, and a false entry is perjury that can carry criminal exposure on top of a civil suit.

Selling Price and Lien Amount

This field asks for the amount the vehicle sold for at the lien sale and the amount of your lien. Enter dollar figures clearly, and keep your math consistent with the proceeds rules. For example, Coastline Auto Repair enters a sale price of $4,800 against a lien of $3,200.

The numbers matter because Civil Code section 3073 controls how proceeds are split: you keep what covers your lien and sale costs, and any surplus goes to the former owner or the DMV. A common mistake is keeping the full sale price when a surplus exists, which is unlawful conversion and can trigger a claim for the difference. People often assume any extra money is theirs because they did the work, but surplus funds legally belong to the prior owner, not the lienholder.

Name and Address of the Buyer

This box asks who bought the vehicle at the sale. If a third party won the bid, enter that person’s full name and address; if no qualifying bidder appeared, you as the lienholder become the buyer and enter your own information. For example, Coastline Auto Repair lists itself as the buyer, 19 Industrial Way, San Jose, CA 95110, because no outside bid met the minimum.

Match the buyer name here to the name that will appear on the REG 343 title application so the two forms agree. If you keep the vehicle yourself, you still complete this box as both seller and buyer. A common mistake is leaving it blank when the lienholder retains the car, which stops the transfer cold. Filers sometimes think an unsold vehicle needs no buyer entry, but the DMV needs a named buyer to move title, even if that buyer is you.

Signature and Date

The final block requires the signature of the lienholder or the authorized agent, plus the date signed. Sign in ink, print your name and title beneath, and date it the day you sign. For example, Maria Coastline signs as owner of Coastline Auto Repair and dates it 03/06/2026.

The signature binds you to every sworn statement above, so do not sign until every box is complete and correct. If a company files, an authorized representative signs and notes their authority. A common mistake is an unsigned or undated form, which is an automatic rejection that delays the title. Many filers think a stamp or typed name is enough, but the DMV expects a genuine authorized signature to accept the certification.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

These three walkthroughs show how different filers complete the REG 168 from start to finish. Each follows one named filer through the major sections.

Scenario 1: Coastline Auto Repair โ€” Unpaid Repair Bill

Maria runs a repair shop and is owed $3,200 on a 2003 Honda Accord the owner never picked up.

Form Section What Coastline Auto Repair Enters
VIN 1HGCM82633A004352
License Plate 7ABC123
Year/Make/Model 2003 HONDA ACCORD
Registered Owner Daniel Pham, 482 Oak Street, San Jose, CA 95112
Legal Owner None of record
Notice Mailed Date 02/10/2026
Date of Sale 03/05/2026
Sale Price / Lien Amount $4,800 / $3,200
Buyer Coastline Auto Repair (no outside bid)
Signature/Date Maria Coastline, 03/06/2026

Scenario 2: SecureSpace Self-Storage โ€” Storage Lien

James manages a self-storage facility holding a 2015 Toyota Camry valued at $6,500 with $1,900 in unpaid rent.

Form Section What SecureSpace Self-Storage Enters
VIN 4T1BF1FK0FU987654
License Plate 8XYZ901
Year/Make/Model 2015 TOYOTA CAMRY
Registered Owner Lisa Romero, 77 Pine Avenue, Fresno, CA 93701
Legal Owner Sierra Credit Union, 200 Bank Road, Fresno, CA 93720
Notice Mailed Date 01/15/2026
Date of Sale 02/20/2026
Sale Price / Lien Amount $6,500 / $1,900
Buyer Tomas Rivera, 14 Elm Court, Fresno, CA 93702
Signature/Date James Okafor, agent, 02/21/2026

Scenario 3: Bay Tow & Recovery โ€” Tow and Storage Lien, No Bidder

Aisha operates a tow yard holding a 2018 Ford F-150 valued at $9,000 with $2,400 owed.

Form Section What Bay Tow & Recovery Enters
VIN 1FTEW1EP3JKE12345
License Plate 5TRK456
Year/Make/Model 2018 FORD F150
Registered Owner Marcus Webb, 901 Bay Street, Oakland, CA 94607
Legal Owner None of record
Notice Mailed Date 03/01/2026
Date of Sale 04/08/2026
Sale Price / Lien Amount $5,000 / $2,400
Buyer Bay Tow & Recovery (retains vehicle)
Signature/Date Aisha Bennett, owner, 04/09/2026

How to File the Completed REG 168

Once the form is signed, you file it as part of a transfer packet. The REG 168 never goes in alone; it travels with the REG 343, proof of your lien, the certified mail receipts, the title (if you have it), smog certification if required, and the fees. Here is how each channel works.

By mail. Send the full packet to the DMV’s registration processing address printed in the Vehicle Industry Registration Procedures Manual, or to DMV, PO Box 942869, Sacramento, CA 94269. Pay the transfer and lien fees by check or money order payable to DMV. Mail processing commonly runs several weeks, so send it with tracking and keep your receipt as proof of filing.

In person. Bring the packet to any DMV field office. Make an appointment on the DMV appointment page to cut the wait. Pay by cash, check, money order, or card where accepted, and ask for a stamped receipt; in-person filing is the fastest way to catch errors at the counter.

Through a registration service or DMV business partner. Many lienholders use a licensed registration service that submits directly to DMV electronically. Fees vary by the service on top of DMV fees, processing is often quicker than mail, and you should keep the service’s confirmation as your proof of filing.

Whatever channel you choose, photocopy the entire packet before you submit it. That copy is your evidence that you filed a complete, timely, and lawful set of documents if anyone challenges the sale later.

What Happens After You File

After the DMV accepts your packet, it reviews the REG 168 and supporting documents to confirm the lien sale followed the law. If everything matches, the DMV transfers title out of the former registered owner’s name and issues a new title to the buyer named on your REG 343. This is the moment the buyer or the retaining lienholder gains clear, legal ownership.

If the DMV finds a problem, such as a missing notice receipt or a sale date inside the notice window, it sends the packet back with a request for correction. Processing pauses until you fix and resubmit, which can add weeks. In some disputes the matter goes to the DMV’s lien sale dispute resolution process before any title issues.

Keep your full copy and all receipts for several years. If the former owner files a claim that the sale was wrongful, your certified mail receipts, lien proof, and stamped DMV filing are what defend you. Once the new title arrives, the vehicle can be registered, resold, or operated normally by the new owner.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the REG 168

Each error below has voided real lien sales. Read them before you file.

  • Using the REG 168 for a vehicle valued $4,000 or less. The DMV rejects it because that value requires the REG 168A.
  • Selling before the notice period closes. The sale is void and the owner can recover the vehicle.
  • Skipping certified mail for notices. You cannot prove lawful notice, so the sale collapses under challenge.
  • Leaving the legal owner blank when a bank holds an interest. That lienholder never got notice, which invalidates the sale.
  • Transposing a VIN character. The transfer halts until you correct it, delaying the title for weeks.
  • Listing a sale date before the authorization date. The form proves on its face you sold without authority.
  • Keeping surplus sale proceeds. That is unlawful conversion and the former owner can sue for the difference.
  • Filing the REG 168 without the REG 343. The form cannot transfer title alone, so nothing happens.
  • Forgetting to sign or date the form. An unsigned certification is an automatic rejection.
  • Using an outdated form version. The DMV may bounce a superseded revision and force a refiling.
  • Confusing the REG 168 with the REG 119. A financed-car repossession needs the Certificate of Repossession, not a lien sale form.
  • Using a stale owner address. Notice sent to an old address is not valid notice, undermining the sale.

Do’s and Don’ts

Do:Confirm the vehicle’s value first, because it decides REG 168 versus REG 168A. – Obtain DMV authorization before any sale, since selling without it voids everything. – Send every notice by certified mail with return receipt, so you can prove lawful notice. – Match every name and number to the DMV record, which prevents holds and fraud flags. – Keep a full copy of the packet and all receipts, your best defense in a dispute. – File the REG 343 with the REG 168, because only the pair transfers title.

Don’t:Don’t sell before the notice window closes, or the sale is unlawful. – Don’t keep surplus proceeds, since that money belongs to the former owner. – Don’t guess at the VIN or model, because a mismatch stalls the transfer. – Don’t leave the buyer box blank when you retain the car, or the title cannot move. – Don’t sign before the form is complete, since you swear to every entry under penalty of perjury. – Don’t reuse an old form copy, because the revision date can matter.

Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help

Filing It Yourself Using a Registration Service or Attorney
Saves the service fee, keeping more of the proceeds Costs extra but reduces the risk of a voided sale
You control the timeline directly A pro tracks the strict notice windows for you
Builds in-house knowledge for future liens Catches form and statute errors before filing
No need to share owner data with a third party Handles DMV back-and-forth on corrections
Simple for a single straightforward lien Better for high-value or disputed vehicles

The trade-off comes down to risk. Filing yourself works when the lien is clean, the value is clear, and you can follow the notice rules to the day. Bringing in help is worth the cost when a bank holds a legal-owner interest, the owner is likely to dispute the sale, or the vehicle is valuable enough that a voided sale would hurt.

Key Agencies, Forms, and Statutes That Interact With the REG 168

Several pieces work together around this form. The DMV receives the form and issues the new title. The governing law is Civil Code sections 3067 to 3074, which set the authorization, notice, and proceeds rules for lien sales over $4,000.

Related forms include the REG 168A for vehicles valued at $4,000 or less, the REG 343 that actually transfers title, and the REG 119 used when a financing legal owner repossesses a car. The DMV’s Chapter 18 lien sale procedures are the staff playbook that decides whether your packet is accepted.

FAQs

Is the REG 168 the same as a repossession form?

No. The REG 168 certifies a lien sale by a repair, tow, or storage lienholder. A financing legal owner repossessing a car uses the REG 119 instead.

Do I use the REG 168 or the REG 168A?

No single form fits all values. Use the REG 168 for vehicles valued over $4,000 and the REG 168A for vehicles valued at $4,000 or less.

Can I sell the vehicle before the notice period ends?

No. Selling before the required notice window closes voids the sale, and the former owner can recover the vehicle or sue you.

Do I have to mail notices by certified mail?

Yes. Certified mail with a return receipt is how you prove lawful notice, and without that proof the sale can be overturned.

Do I list the legal owner if a bank financed the car?

Yes. You must list and notify every legal owner of record in the owner box, or the sale is invalid for lack of notice.

Can I keep the money if the car sells for more than the lien?

No. Surplus proceeds belong to the former owner under Civil Code 3073, not to you.

Do I write the buyer’s name if no one bid?

Yes. If no qualifying bid appears, you enter your own name as the buyer because you retain the vehicle.

Can the REG 168 transfer title by itself?

No. You must file it with the REG 343, which is the form that actually moves ownership.

Do I need DMV authorization before the sale?

Yes. You must obtain authorization to conduct the lien sale first, and selling without it makes the entire process void.

Can I file the REG 168 online myself?

No. Individuals file by mail or in person, though a licensed registration service can submit electronically on your behalf.

Do I enter the VIN exactly as on the record?

Yes. Copy all characters exactly, since one wrong digit holds the transfer until you correct it.

Can a typed signature replace a written one?

No. The DMV expects a genuine signature from the lienholder or authorized agent, because the certification is sworn under penalty of perjury.

Do I keep copies after filing?

Yes. Keep the full packet and all receipts for years, as they defend you if the former owner challenges the sale.

Can I sell a vehicle worth $4,000 with the REG 168?

No. A vehicle valued at exactly $4,000 or less falls under the REG 168A, not the REG 168.