The District of Columbia DMV Vehicle Registration Application is the Certificate of Title/Temporary Tag Application (Form DMV-CTA-001), the single document that every vehicle owner who keeps and drives a car in the District must file with the DC Department of Motor Vehicles to get a DC title and license plates. It is one combined form that handles both titling (legal ownership) and registration (legal permission to drive on public roads), and it carries the revision stamp Rev. 02/01/2012 in the bottom corner, so confirm that date before you use any copy you print.
If you just moved to DC, the clock is already running. District law gives you only 60 calendar days from the day you start living in the District to register your vehicle, and you must convert your out-of-state license to a DC license or ID first. Each year DC DMV processes hundreds of thousands of vehicle records, and a single mismatch between your address and your DC license is one of the most common reasons an application gets bounced at the counter. Getting this form right the first time saves you a second trip, a second wait, and sometimes a second inspection.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📋 How to complete every box on Form DMV-CTA-001, line by line, in plain English.
- 🪪 Which documents, ID numbers, and proofs you must gather before you start.
- 💵 What the 2026 title, registration, excise tax, and inspection fees actually cost.
- 🚗 Three full walkthroughs for a new resident, a private-sale buyer, and a leased car.
- ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that get applications rejected and how to dodge them.
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Certificate of Title/Temporary Tag Application is the District’s official request for a DC Certificate of Title and DC license plates (tags). The title proves you own the vehicle, and the registration proves the District lets you drive it on public roads. The form is received by the DC Department of Motor Vehicles, the agency that controls all titling, registration, and inspection inside the District. One form does both jobs, which is why it asks about ownership, liens, insurance, and mileage all on a single page.
The legal duty to file comes from District law, which requires that all vehicles housed and operated in the District be both titled and registered in the District. The plain-English version is simple: if your car sleeps in DC and drives on DC streets, it must wear DC plates. The consequence of ignoring this is real. Driving an unregistered or improperly registered vehicle in the District exposes you to tickets, towing, and booting, and the costs stack fast. A common misconception is that a federal job, a college dorm, or a short lease lets you skip DC registration; in truth, only specific groups qualify for relief.
Who must file? Any person or business that owns or leases a vehicle kept in DC. That includes new residents transferring an out-of-state car, residents who buy a new car from a dealer, buyers in private used-car sales, and people who buy out a lease. Students, diplomats, active-duty military, part-time residents, members of Congress, and presidential appointees who want to keep home-state tags must instead apply for a reciprocity permit. If you do not fit one of those narrow groups, you file this form. The form also has a Temporary Tag option, which lets you legally move a car to inspection before full registration is finished.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Filling out the form is the easy part. The slow part is gathering proof, because DC DMV will not finish your title or hand you plates until every supporting document is in the file. Walk into the service center with a folder, not a phone full of screenshots. Below is your pre-filing checklist. Each item explains why it matters and what happens if it is missing.
- Valid DC driver license or DC ID card. The form must be backed by a DC license, DC ID, DC business license, DC Certificate of Occupancy, or a DC Tax ID document. Without one of these, the application cannot be accepted at all.
- The vehicle title or origin document. A used car needs the signed-over out-of-state or prior title; a brand-new car needs the Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin from the dealer. Missing this means there is no proof you own the car.
- Proof of DC insurance. You need current proof of valid DC insurance in your name. No DC insurance means no registration, full stop, and a lapse triggers steep penalties later.
- Bill of sale. A signed bill of sale shows the selling price, which DC uses to help set the excise tax. Without it, DC values the car from the NADA guide, which may cost you more.
- Odometer reading. You must certify the actual mileage on the form. A missing or wrong reading can delay the title and, on a lease buyout, you need a separate odometer statement.
- Lien or lease paperwork. If a bank or leasing company is involved, bring the signed loan contract or lease agreement. Without it, the title cannot be processed correctly and may be mailed to the wrong party.
- The vehicle for inspection. Most used vehicles must pass DC inspection before registration; brand-new passenger vehicles are exempt. No passing inspection means no plates.
- Payment. Bring a payment method for title, registration, excise tax, and inspection fees, all due at processing. Note a 2.5% service fee now applies to debit and credit card transactions. Short payment stops the whole transaction.
A quiet warning: all debts to the DC Government, including unpaid tickets, child support, and dishonored checks, must be cleared before DMV will finish most transactions. Clear those first or your appointment ends at the cashier.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can get the Certificate of Title/Temporary Tag Application three ways. The fastest is to download the official PDF directly from the DC DMV forms library, print it, and fill it in by hand with blue or black ink. You can also pick up a paper copy at any DC DMV service center, or have a licensed dealer hand you one as part of a vehicle purchase. Always check the Rev. 02/01/2012 stamp at the bottom so you are not using an outdated scan from a third-party website.
The form is filed in person at a DC DMV service center, because the agency must verify your original documents, take your payment, and issue physical plates. There is no full online filing for a first-time title and registration, though renewals and some replacements can be done through the online portal or the DC DMV mobile app. Trying to mail a brand-new title application usually fails, because the agency needs to inspect the original ownership documents in person.
Print the form single-sided and fill it out before you arrive. The header asks you to PRINT all information, which means write in clear block letters, not cursive. A common misconception is that staff will fill the form out for you; they will not, and arriving with a blank form means filling it at the counter while the line grows behind you. Bring a working pen and a second blank copy in case you make an error you cannot cleanly fix.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form DMV-CTA-001 Line by Line
The form flows from top to bottom in logical blocks: registration term, type of service, applicant information, address, vehicle information, mileage, lien, insurance, and signature. Work through it in that order. Each block below uses the exact field name printed on the form. Sample entries are shown in italics so you can tell them apart from the instructions.
Registration Term: One Year, Two Year, or With RPP
This is the row of checkboxes at the very top: One Year Registration, Two Year Registration, One Year Registration with Residential Parking Permit (RPP), and Two Year Registration with Residential Parking Permit (RPP). The field asks how long you want your tags to stay valid and whether you want a Residential Parking Permit sticker for your DC neighborhood.
To answer it, check exactly one box. Pick a two-year term if you want fewer renewals, and add RPP if you park on the street in a permit-zone block. Maria Lopez checks the box for One Year Registration with Residential Parking Permit (RPP) because she street-parks in Columbia Heights and wants to test the cost before committing to two years.
The nuance here is the RPP eligibility rule: an RPP only helps if your home address sits inside a residential permit zone, so a garage-only owner gains nothing from it. A common mistake is checking both a one-year and a two-year box, which forces staff to stop and ask you to pick one, slowing your visit. The misconception worth killing now is that RPP is a separate trip to a different office; it is not, it rides along on this very form.
Type of Service
The Type of Service block lists check options including Temporary Tag, New Title/New Tags, New Title/Transfer Tags, Title Only, Salvage Title, Non-Repairable Title, and Duplicate Title. This field asks what you actually want DMV to do today.
To answer it, check the single option that matches your situation. A new DC resident or a fresh buyer who needs both ownership and plates checks New Title/New Tags. Marcus Bell, who is moving the plates from his old DC car onto his new one, checks New Title/Transfer Tags and saves money with the $12 tag transfer.
The edge case to know: choose Temporary Tag when your car still needs to pass inspection and you must legally drive it there, especially when a lienholder is still holding the title. A common mistake is checking Title Only when you actually need plates too, which leaves you with proof of ownership but no legal way to drive. The misconception is that Salvage Title and Non-Repairable Title are interchangeable; they are not, and choosing the wrong one can wrongly brand a drivable car as junk.
Owner/Lessor Full Name (Last, First, Middle)
This field asks for the legal name of the person or company that owns the vehicle, or the lessor (the leasing company) if the car is leased. The header note is direct: if the vehicle is leased, you provide the name of the Lessor and attach the lease agreement.
To answer it, write your name in Last, First, Middle order exactly as it appears on your DC license. Lopez, Maria, Elena is the correct format. Enter the name as it appears on your Social Security record and DC license, because DMV cross-checks identity, and a mismatch triggers a hold.
The nuance: on a leased car, the lessor’s name (for example, GM Financial Leasing) goes here, not yours, since the title belongs to the leasing company. A common mistake is writing First-Last order, which can mis-sort your record and delay the title. The misconception is that a nickname or shortened name is fine; it is not, and “Mike” instead of Michael can break the cross-check.
Date of Birth and State Driver License or ID Card
These two fields sit beside the name and ask for your date of birth and the number printed on your DC driver license or DC ID card. They tie the application to a verified identity.
To answer them, write the date of birth in the standard MM/DD/YYYY format and copy the license number digit for digit. Maria writes 03/14/1990 and her DC license number exactly as printed, with no spaces. Double-check every character against the card itself.
The nuance: for a business-owned vehicle, you use the Business Name and Federal Employee Identification # fields instead of a personal license number. A common mistake is transposing two digits of the license number, which causes the record to fail validation and stalls processing. The misconception is that an expired or out-of-state license works here; it must be a current DC credential, or the application is rejected outright.
Joint Owner(s) Full Name, Date of Birth, and License
This block asks whether a second person co-owns the vehicle, and if so, their name, date of birth, and license number. It exists because two people can share legal title to one car.
To answer it, add the co-owner only if they truly share ownership, using the same Last, First, Middle format. Bell, Sandra, Marie is entered as joint owner alongside Marcus. Both owners’ names will appear on the title when listed here.
The nuance the form spells out: if the vehicle is leased, the lessee’s name will not appear on the title, so a leaseholder is not entered as a joint owner. A common mistake is adding a spouse who is not actually on the title, which can complicate a future sale because every listed owner must sign to transfer the car. The misconception is that adding a joint owner is just a courtesy; it creates real shared legal ownership with shared signing rights.
Current Address (Must Match DC License)
This field asks for the address where you live, and the form is blunt that the Address must match DC Driver License, DC Identification Card or DC Business License. It is split into Address, Unit/Apt, City/State, and Zip Code.
To answer it, copy your address exactly as it reads on your DC license, including unit number. Maria writes 1425 Park Road NW, Unit 3, Washington, DC, 20010. Match every abbreviation and quadrant letter (NW, NE, SW, SE) precisely.
The nuance: if you recently moved, update your DC license address before filing, because DMV verifies the two against each other. This address-mismatch problem is the single most common reason applications are kicked back at the counter, costing you a return trip. The misconception is that a P.O. Box or a work address is acceptable; the District wants your residential address, and a P.O. Box alone will not satisfy the match rule.
Vehicle Information: Make, Year, Body, Title Brand, Unladen Weight, VIN
This block asks for the core facts about the car: Make, Year, Body, Title Brand, Unladen Weight, and Vehicle Identification Number. These details drive your registration class and your excise tax.
To answer it, copy each value from the title or the manufacturer’s documents. Maria enters Honda, 2021, 4-Door Sedan, leaves Title Brand blank (clean), Unladen Weight 3,150, and her 17-character VIN. The VIN must be all 17 characters with no missing letters.
The nuance: Unladen Weight is the empty weight of the car, and it sets your registration fee class and part of your excise rate, so pull it from the door-jamb sticker or title, not a guess. A common mistake is a single wrong VIN character, which mismatches the car against national records and can freeze the title for days. The misconception is that Title Brand is optional fluff; a brand like salvage or rebuilt must be carried over honestly, and hiding it is fraud.
Actual Mileage Certification
This field reads I certify to the best of my knowledge that actual mileage is ______, asking you to record and swear to the odometer reading. Federal and District law require an accurate odometer disclosure at every transfer.
To answer it, read the odometer and write the whole number on the day you file. Marcus certifies actual mileage of 64,820. Do not round, estimate, or guess.
The nuance: on a lease buyout, you also bring a separate odometer statement showing current mileage, and you may keep your current valid lease-period tags. A common mistake is copying an old reading from the bill of sale instead of the current number, which creates a discrepancy that can flag odometer fraud. The misconception is that mileage is just a formality; a false odometer statement is a serious legal violation with real penalties.
Lien Information
This block asks whether a lender has a financial claim on the car, and for the Lien Date, Name of Lien Holders, Lien Holders Address, and Lien Amount. It exists because a financed car has a bank with rights to the title until the loan is paid.
To answer it, fill these boxes only if you financed the car, and attach the lien agreement. Sandra enters the lien date, Capital Auto Finance, the lender’s full mailing address, and the lien amount of $18,400. The form warns that if a lien exists, the title will be mailed to the Lien holder.
The nuance: if the lender out of state is holding your prior title, you may need the lienholder out-of-state title request and can use a temporary tag to reach inspection meanwhile. A common mistake is leaving these boxes blank on a financed car, which can produce a title that wrongly shows no lien and delay your lender. The misconception is that you keep the paper title on a financed car; you do not, the lienholder holds it until payoff.
Insurance Company Information
This block asks for proof you carry valid DC insurance: Name of Insurance Company, Policy Number, Policy Effective Date, and Expiration Date. The District requires continuous DC insurance on every registered vehicle.
To answer it, copy the details from your current DC insurance card, and bring the card as proof. Maria enters her insurer’s name, her policy number, an effective date of 05/01/2026, and an expiration date of 11/01/2026. The policy must be active on the day you file.
The nuance: the insurance must be a DC policy in your name; an out-of-state policy that has not been switched to DC can be refused. A common mistake is listing a policy that lapses within days, which can trigger DC’s brutal insurance-lapse penalty of $150 per day for the first 30 days. The misconception is that any active U.S. policy counts; DC specifically wants DC coverage tied to your DC registration.
Certification and Signature
The final block is the sworn statement and signature lines: Signature of Owner/Lessor with a date, plus lines for Signature of Joint Owner/Lessee. By signing, you certify the information is true under penalty of law.
To answer it, every listed owner signs and dates in ink. Marcus and Sandra both sign and date the form on the day they file. The note states it must be signed by the owner, an officer of a corporation, or a partner in a partnership.
The nuance: a co-owned or jointly titled vehicle generally needs all owners’ signatures, so plan to bring everyone or arrange a power of attorney. A common mistake is leaving a joint owner’s signature blank, which makes the application incomplete and stops processing. The misconception that this signature is a routine formality is dangerous: the form warns that a fictitious name or false statement violates DC Official Code § 22-2405 and can bring a fine of up to $1,000, up to 180 days in jail, or both.
Official DMV Use Section
The bottom block, labeled OFFICIAL DMV USE, contains Excise Tax, Selling Price (New Vehicles), NADA Business/Fair Market Value (Used Vehicles), Title # or Temporary Tag #, Approval by DMV Examiner, Date, and Operator’s Number. This field asks for nothing from you; staff complete it.
To answer it, leave the entire block blank. Maria writes nothing here and lets the examiner fill it in. The DMV examiner records your excise tax, the value used, and your new title or tag number.
The nuance: the Selling Price and NADA value lines feed your excise tax math, so your bill of sale still matters even though staff write the numbers. A common mistake is filling this section yourself, which can confuse staff and slow approval. The misconception is that this section is optional paperwork; it is the agency’s official record of approval, and it is the part that finalizes your title.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three of the most common ways people use this form, each followed from start to finish.
Scenario 1: Maria, a new DC resident from Virginia with a paid-off car. Maria moved to Columbia Heights, converted her license to a DC license first, and now registers her clean-title 2021 Honda within the 60-day window.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Registration Term | One Year Registration with Residential Parking Permit (RPP) |
| Type of Service | New Title/New Tags |
| Owner Full Name | Lopez, Maria, Elena |
| Date of Birth / License # | 03/14/1990 and her DC license number |
| Current Address | 1425 Park Road NW, Unit 3, Washington, DC, 20010 |
| Vehicle Information | Honda, 2021, 4-Door Sedan, Unladen Weight 3,150, full 17-char VIN |
| Actual Mileage | I certify actual mileage is 28,500 |
| Lien Information | Left blank — car is paid off |
| Insurance Information | Her DC insurer, policy number, effective and expiration dates |
| Signature | Maria signs and dates the form |
Scenario 2: Marcus and Sandra, a married couple buying a used car in a private sale. They bought a 2018 SUV from a neighbor, got a signed title and bill of sale, and need inspection plus plates.
| Form Section | What Marcus and Sandra Enter |
|---|---|
| Registration Term | Two Year Registration |
| Type of Service | New Title/Transfer Tags |
| Owner Full Name | Bell, Marcus, James |
| Joint Owner | Bell, Sandra, Marie |
| Current Address | Their shared DC address matching both licenses |
| Vehicle Information | Make, 2018, SUV, Unladen Weight 4,400, full VIN |
| Actual Mileage | I certify actual mileage is 64,820 |
| Lien Information | Capital Auto Finance, lender address, lien amount $18,400 |
| Insurance Information | Their DC policy details |
| Signature | Both Marcus and Sandra sign and date |
Scenario 3: Aisha, registering a leased electric vehicle. Aisha leases a new EV. The leasing company is the lessor, so its name goes on the title, and she attaches the lease.
| Form Section | What Aisha Enters |
|---|---|
| Registration Term | One Year Registration |
| Type of Service | Temporary Tag then New Title/New Tags |
| Owner/Lessor Full Name | EV Financial Leasing LLC (the lessor) |
| Joint Owner | Left blank — lessee name not on title |
| Current Address | Aisha’s DC address matching her DC license |
| Vehicle Information | EV make, current year, 4-Door, unladen weight from sticker, full VIN |
| Actual Mileage | I certify actual mileage is 12 |
| Lien Information | Left blank — leased, lease agreement attached instead |
| Insurance Information | Her DC EV policy details |
| Signature | Aisha signs as lessee; lessor info attached |
How to File the Completed Form
A first-time title and registration is filed in person at a DC DMV service center, because staff must inspect your original documents, collect payment, and issue physical plates. Bring the completed Form DMV-CTA-001, your DC license, the title or origin document, proof of DC insurance, the bill of sale, and your payment. Most used vehicles must also stop at the DC inspection station before plates are issued; brand-new passenger vehicles skip inspection.
For payment, DC DMV accepts cash, check, money order, contactless/digital wallet, and credit cards (VISA, MasterCard, American Express, Discover). Be aware a 2.5% service fee now applies to debit and credit card transactions, and as of April 19, 2026, the ACH/electronic-check option was temporarily removed from online and app transactions. Mail filing exists mainly for renewals, sent to DC DMV, PO BOX 90120, Washington DC 20090, not for first-time titles. Renewals and some replacements can also run through the online portal or the DC DMV mobile app.
Whatever channel you use, keep proof of filing. At a service center you receive a registration card, license plates, and expiration stickers on the spot, and the registration card must stay in the vehicle at all times. Keep your receipt, your stamped copy, and any inspection slip in a safe place. Processing time in person is usually same-day once your documents and payment clear; mailed renewals take longer, so file early.
What Happens After You File
Once your form is approved and paid, the DMV examiner completes the Official DMV Use block, assigns a title or temporary tag number, and issues your plates, stickers, and registration card the same day for in-person filings. Your DC Certificate of Title is the legal proof of ownership; if a lien exists, that title is mailed to the lienholder, not to you, until the loan is paid off. Keep the registration card in the vehicle, because police may ask to see it during any stop.
If you filed for a temporary tag first, you use that tag to legally drive the car to inspection, then return to finish the New Title/New Tags step once it passes. For a leased or financed car where an out-of-state lender holds the title, you can track arrival through DC DMV’s online out-of-state title system, and the vehicle can be fully registered once the title reaches DMV. A common misconception is that a temporary tag is the finish line; it is only a bridge, and letting it expire without completing registration leaves you driving illegally.
Watch your renewal date. A two-year term means fewer trips, while a one-year term costs less up front. If you ever let DC insurance lapse, the penalty is severe at $150 per day for the first 30 days, so never cancel old coverage until the new DC policy is active. Mark your calendar well before the expiration printed on your sticker.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Each error below has a direct cost, so scan this list before you sign.
- Address does not match your DC license. The application is rejected at the counter and you make a second trip.
- Using an out-of-state or expired license. The form cannot be accepted, because it requires a current DC credential.
- Wrong VIN character. The car fails to match national records, freezing your title for days.
- Guessing the unladen weight. It can place you in the wrong fee class and miscalculate your excise tax.
- Checking two registration-term boxes. Staff must stop and ask you to choose, slowing your visit.
- Choosing Title Only when you need plates. You end up owning a car you cannot legally drive.
- Leaving lien boxes blank on a financed car. The title may wrongly show no lien and delay your lender.
- Listing a soon-to-lapse insurance policy. It can trigger the $150-per-day insurance-lapse penalty.
- Copying an old odometer reading. A mileage discrepancy can flag suspected odometer fraud.
- Forgetting a joint owner’s signature. The application is incomplete and processing stops.
- Filling in the Official DMV Use block. It confuses staff and can slow approval.
- Ignoring outstanding DC debts. Unpaid tickets or child support halt the transaction at the cashier.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do convert your license to a DC license first, because the form requires a matching DC credential.
- Do print in clear block letters, since the header tells you to PRINT and unreadable entries get questioned.
- Do copy the VIN and weight from the title, because accuracy here sets your class and tax.
- Do bring every supporting document, since DMV will not finish without proof of ownership and insurance.
- Do clear outstanding DC debts in advance, because they block most DMV transactions.
- Do keep your registration card in the car, because the law requires it during any stop.
Don’ts
- Don’t use a P.O. Box as your address, because it fails the residential-match rule.
- Don’t guess your odometer number, because a false reading is a legal violation.
- Don’t fill the Official DMV Use box, because that section belongs to staff.
- Don’t let old insurance lapse early, because the daily penalty is steep.
- Don’t drive past the 60-day window unregistered, because tickets and towing follow.
- Don’t skip the lease agreement on a leased car, because the title cannot process without it.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Many DC buyers complete this form alone, while dealers and services file it for others. Here is how the two paths compare.
Pros of filing on your own
- Lower cost, because you avoid any dealer or service fee.
- Full control, since you confirm every field is right.
- Faster for simple cases, like a clean-title, paid-off car.
- Better understanding, because you learn your own fees and renewal date.
- No middleman delay, since you handle documents directly.
Cons of filing on your own
- Higher error risk, because address and VIN mistakes cause rejections.
- Your own time spent, waiting in line at a service center.
- Harder lien and lease cases, which need extra forms and tracking.
- Inspection trips, which you must manage yourself.
- No expert to catch excise tax surprises, which can be larger than expected.
Comparison: New Title/New Tags vs. New Title/Transfer Tags
These two Type of Service options confuse many filers, so the table below separates them.
| New Title/New Tags | New Title/Transfer Tags |
|---|---|
| Issues brand-new DC plates with your new title | Moves your existing valid DC plates onto the new title |
| Best for new residents and first-time DC owners | Best for current DC owners replacing one car with another |
| You pay the full registration fee for the term | You pay the registration plus a $12 tag transfer fee |
| No prior DC plates required | Requires valid DC plates already in your name |
DC Registration Fees and Excise Tax in 2026
DC fees changed on March 30, 2026, so use current numbers. Annual passenger registration runs by weight class: $70 for Class I (3,499 lbs or less), $175 for Class II (3,500–4,999 lbs), $300 for Class III (5,000–5,999 lbs), and $550 plus $75 per 1,000 lbs over 10,000 for Class IV (6,000 lbs and up). A brand-new battery electric vehicle under 5,000 lbs pays just $40 for its first two years before reverting to its normal class. The title fee, registration card, and inspection are billed on top.
Excise tax is separate and is paid at titling, calculated on the vehicle’s fair market value from the NADA Eastern Region guide. Under the 2025 excise rules, the rate depends on both unladen weight and city MPG, and electric vehicles are no longer exempt. The table below shows the 2026 excise tax percentages.
| Unladen Weight | 20 MPG or Less | 21–25 MPG | 26–30 MPG | 31–39 MPG | 40 MPG+ | Electric |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3,499 lbs or less | 9.0% | 5.0% | 3.1% | 2.2% | 1.5% | 1.0% |
| 3,500–4,999 lbs | 10.0% | 6.0% | 4.1% | 3.2% | 2.5% | 2.0% |
| 5,000 lbs or more | 11.0% | 7.0% | 5.1% | 4.2% | 3.5% | 3.0% |
DC residents who claimed the District Earned Income Tax Credit may elect a weight-based rate instead, with documentation from the Office of Tax and Revenue. Use the online excise tax estimator to preview your bill before you arrive.
Key Agencies and Documents That Interact With This Form
Several entities touch this one form. The DC Department of Motor Vehicles receives the application, runs inspection, and issues the title and plates. The DC Office of Tax and Revenue handles EITC documentation that can lower your excise tax. The National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) guide supplies the fair market value DMV uses for excise tax on used cars.
Related documents include the Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin for new cars, the bill of sale for used cars, the lienholder out-of-state title request for financed vehicles, and the reciprocity permit for students, diplomats, and military who keep home-state tags. Each plays a supporting role, and missing any required one stops your title at the counter. Knowing which document your situation needs is half the battle.
FAQs
Do I have to get a DC license before I register my car?
Yes. You must convert your out-of-state license to a DC license or ID first, then register the vehicle within 60 days of moving, or the application is rejected.
Can I file this form entirely online?
No. A first-time title and registration is filed in person so staff can verify originals and issue plates; only renewals and some replacements work online.
Do I write my name as First-Last or Last-First in the name box?
No, not First-Last. The Owner Full Name field requires Last, First, Middle order, exactly as it appears on your DC driver license.
Can I use a P.O. Box in the Current Address field?
No. The address must match your DC license and be a residential address, so a P.O. Box alone does not satisfy the match rule.
Do I fill in the Excise Tax and Official DMV Use boxes myself?
No. That entire bottom section is labeled Official DMV Use, and only a DMV examiner completes it; leave it blank.
Is my electric vehicle exempt from DC excise tax?
No. As of the 2025 rules, EVs are no longer exempt and pay 1.0% to 3.0% based on weight, though new EVs still get a reduced first-year registration fee.
Do both owners need to sign on a jointly titled car?
Yes. When two owners are listed, both must sign and date the certification, or the application is incomplete and processing stops.
Does the lessee’s name go on the title for a leased car?
No. The form states the lessee’s name will not appear on the title; the lessor’s name goes in the owner field and the lease is attached.
Do I need proof of insurance to register?
Yes. Current proof of valid DC insurance in your name must accompany the application, and a lapse triggers a penalty of $150 per day for the first 30 days.
Can I drive my car before registration is finished?
Yes, but only with a temporary tag obtained on this form, which lets you legally reach inspection before full registration is completed.
Will I get my paper title if my car is financed?
No. If a lien exists, the form states the title is mailed to the lienholder, who holds it until you pay off the loan.
Do brand-new cars need a DC inspection before registration?
No. Brand-new passenger class vehicles are exempt from inspection, but most used vehicles must pass DC inspection before plates are issued.
Can I do a two-year registration to skip a renewal?
Yes. Checking the Two Year Registration box gives you a longer term and fewer renewal trips, though you pay the larger amount up front.
What happens if I miss the 60-day registration deadline?
No good outcome follows. Driving an unregistered vehicle past the 60-day window exposes you to tickets, booting, and towing under District law.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Alaska DMV Vehicle Registration Application (Form 812 / V1) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the New Hampshire DMV Vehicle Registration Application + FAQs
- How to Fill Out District of Columbia DMV Application for Certificate of Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the District of Columbia DMV Application for a Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out a District of Columbia DMV Vehicle Bill of Sale + FAQs
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