The Florida Statement of Builder, Form HSMV 84490, is the sworn form you complete to tell the state exactly how a salvage-branded vehicle was rebuilt, and it is the form a rebuilt facility inspector signs before you can apply for a Rebuilt certificate of title at a Florida Tax Collector or tag agency. Anyone who buys a wrecked car with a salvage or rebuildable title and repairs it back to road-safe condition must file this form. The current version is Rev. 07/24, so check the bottom corner of your printout to confirm you have the right one.
Getting this form wrong is the number one reason rebuilt title applications stall. The Florida Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles (FLHSMV) requires the major component parts you list in Section II to match your repair receipts and the inspector’s physical check, and when those three things do not line up, the inspection fails and you start over. Floridians title hundreds of thousands of used vehicles each year, and rebuilt inspections carry a non-refundable $40.00 initial fee that you pay again if you have to redo a failed visit.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 🚗 What the HSMV 84490 is, who must file it, and how it fits the rebuilt title process
- 📋 Every document, photo, and receipt to gather before you open the form
- ✍️ A line-by-line walkthrough of all five sections, with sample entries
- 🔍 Three full filled-out examples for a DIY owner, a dealer, and a custom builder
- ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that get rebuilt applications rejected and how to dodge them
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The HSMV 84490, titled Statement of Builder, is a sworn declaration that describes a salvage or assembled vehicle and lists the major parts used to rebuild it. The form lives with the Division of Motor Vehicles inside FLHSMV, and it is required under Section 319.14, Florida Statutes and the rebuilt inspection rule in Fla. Admin. Code R. 15C-22.002. The form ties together five things: its purpose (proving the rebuild is legitimate), the agency that receives it (FLHSMV through a Tax Collector), the statute that requires it (319.14), the inspection that validates it, and the penalty that follows a false statement, which is perjury.
You must file this form if you own a vehicle, motorcycle, or mobile home that carries a Salvage/Rebuildable brand and you want a clear path to drive it legally again. A salvage brand means an insurer or owner declared the vehicle a total loss, and Florida will not let it back on the road until a rebuilt inspection confirms the repairs. The brand never disappears; once the vehicle passes, the title reads Rebuilt for the rest of its life, which is the law’s way of warning future buyers.
Three groups file the 84490 most often. Private owners who buy a wrecked car at auction and fix it themselves file it to recover a daily driver at a low cost. Licensed dealers and repair shops file it to rebuild inventory they plan to resell. Custom builders file it for street rods, kit cars, and vehicles assembled from parts, where Section II describes a build rather than a repair.
A common misconception is that the rebuilt inspection is a safety inspection. It is not. The inspection confirms the vehicle’s identity and that the parts match the paperwork, guarding against theft and fraud, not whether your brakes are good.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you fill out a single box, because the rebuilt facility inspector reviews your documents first, and a missing item ends the visit and may cost you a re-inspection fee. The rule requires the inspector to review proof of residency, proof of ownership, the fee, the brand status, the completed 84490, the title application, and your photos.
- Salvage/Rebuildable certificate of title in your name, because it proves ownership; without it, the inspector cannot start, and a title in another name needs a Power of Attorney.
- Florida driver license or ID card, because every applicant must be a Florida resident, and the inspector verifies residency from this document.
- Photos of the vehicle taken before any repairs, showing the damaged areas, because the rule requires “before” pictures and missing photos cause a documentation fail.
- Receipts or invoices for every major component part, because each must show the seller’s name, address, phone, signature, and the part’s identification number.
- The original MSO, bills of sale, or receipts for parts, because Section II requires you to attach them and count them.
- The completed HSMV 82040 title application, because the rebuilt title cannot issue without it, and the inspector returns this one to you for the Tax Collector.
- The $40.00 inspection fee in an accepted form of payment, because the inspector must collect and enter it before inspecting.
- NMVTIS, FRVIS, or NICB printouts showing the rebuild was reported, because the rule requires proof the vehicle and parts are not flagged as stolen.
- Form HSMV 84491 if you ran out of room, because the 84490 has limited lines and overflow parts go on this companion sheet.
- The vehicle itself, complete and road-operable, because Section I asks you to certify this, and the inspector physically checks the VIN and parts.
Have your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), year, make, body type, color, and the prior title number and state written down. You will repeat these on both the 84490 and the 82040, and any mismatch between the two forms slows the title clerk.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
Download the current Statement of Builder directly from the FLHSMV forms library so you know you have Rev. 07/24 and not an outdated version pulled from a third-party site. The form is a free, fillable PDF; you can type into it on a computer or print it and write by hand in black ink. Never pay a third-party website for a blank copy, because the official one costs nothing.
You can also pick up a paper copy at any county Tax Collector or license plate agency, and most private rebuilt inspection facilities keep blank copies on hand. If you use a Private Rebuilt Vehicle Inspection Program (PRVIP) facility, ask them which version they accept before you fill anything in, since an obsolete revision can be rejected.
Note that Section V (the DMV/inspector section) is not for you to complete. Only an authorized rebuilt facility inspector or a state Compliance Examiner fills that part out, and they do it at the inspection, not before. If you try to fill in Section V yourself, the inspector will void it and the form may be rejected.
A frequent misconception is that you can complete the whole packet online and mail it for a title without ever showing the car. You cannot. A rebuilt title always requires a physical inspection of the vehicle, so plan to bring it to the facility.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out HSMV 84490 Line by Line
The form runs across two pages and is divided into sections. The top checkboxes pick the vehicle type, Section I describes the vehicle, Section II lists the parts, Section III is your sworn signature, Section IV holds applicant identity details, and Section V is reserved for the inspector. Fill in every box that applies to you, print clearly, and use black ink. Below, each part gets its own walkthrough.
Top Selection Boxes: Vehicle Type and Brand
The form opens with check boxes for the kind of property and the brand: Motor Vehicle, Motorcycle, Mobile Home, Rebuilt, ASPT (Assembled from Parts), or Other. You check the box that matches what you are titling.
To answer, check one vehicle-type box and the Rebuilt box if you are rebuilding a salvage vehicle. A rebuilder fixing a wrecked car checks Motor Vehicle and Rebuilt; a person building a trailer from parts checks ASPT.
For example, Diego Ramirez, who rebuilt a salvage 2019 Toyota Camry, checks Motor Vehicle and Rebuilt.
If you are titling a custom motorcycle assembled from parts, you check Motorcycle and ASPT rather than Rebuilt, because the build path is different.
A common mistake is checking both Rebuilt and ASPT when only one applies, which confuses the clerk about which inspection path you need and can route your file to the wrong queue.
People often believe the brand box is cosmetic. It is not; it tells FLHSMV which statute and inspection rules govern your file, so the wrong box can delay everything.
Section I, Line 1: Vehicle Description
This line asks for the vehicle’s core identity: Identification Number (VIN), Year, Make, Body, Color, Length (length applies to mobile homes and trailers).
Enter the full 17-character VIN exactly as it appears on the dash plate and your salvage title, with no spaces or dashes. Write the model Year as four digits, the Make as the manufacturer name, the Body as the type code, and the Color.
For example, Diego writes VIN 4T1B11HK1KU000000, Year 2019, Make TOYOTA, Body 4D (four-door), Color SILVER.
If your VIN plate was damaged in the wreck or is missing, stop; the rule says a missing public VIN ends the inspection and sends you to a Division of Motorist Services Regional Office for extra steps before you can continue.
A common mistake is copying the VIN from memory or an insurance letter instead of the plate, which creates a one-character mismatch; the inspector verifies the VIN by sight, and a mismatch fails the inspection.
Many people think the VIN on the receipts does not need to match the car. It does; component-part VINs on your receipts must line up with the vehicle and the parts installed.
Section I, Lines 2-3: Title Number and State
These lines ask for your prior Title Number and Title State, plus an “Other/Title Number” line for a second reference if the vehicle carried an out-of-state or prior brand.
Enter the title number from your current Salvage/Rebuildable certificate and the two-letter state code. If the vehicle was branded in another state, list that state and number on the Other line.
For example, Diego enters Title Number 0123456789, Title State FL.
If you bought the salvage vehicle out of state, write that state’s title number here and state code; the inspector and clerk cross-check against NMVTIS for the brand history.
A common mistake is leaving these blank because “the car is salvage anyway,” which forces the clerk to hunt for your prior record and stalls issuance.
People assume a Florida title number transfers to the new rebuilt title. It does not; a new title number issues once the vehicle passes, but the prior number links the chain of ownership.
Section I, Line 4: Road-Operable Certification
This line is an initialed certification that the Motor Vehicle/Motorcycle is complete and in road operable condition, or for a mobile home, that it is habitable.
Place your initials in the box next to the statement that matches your property. By initialing, you swear the vehicle is finished and drivable.
For example, Diego writes his initials D.R. next to the road-operable line.
If the vehicle is not yet finished, do not initial this and do not schedule the inspection; an incomplete car fails the physical inspection and wastes your fee.
A common mistake is initialing while the car still needs parts to pass, which leads to a failed visit and a $20.00 re-inspection charge.
People think “road operable” means street-legal with tags. It means mechanically complete and able to be driven for the inspection, not that registration is finished.
Section II, Item 1: “Purchased Complete” Exception
This box lets you state that Section II is not applicable because the vehicle was purchased in complete rebuilt condition on a given date from a named seller in a named location.
Only check and complete this if you bought the car already rebuilt and are not the rebuilder. Fill in the date, seller name, and place of purchase.
For example, a buyer who purchased an already-rebuilt truck writes purchased on 04/10/2026 from ABC Auto in Tampa, FL, in complete rebuilt condition.
If you bought it rebuilt, the rule says a PRVIP participant generally cannot inspect a vehicle purchased in complete rebuilt condition without prior FLHSMV approval, so contact a Regional Office first.
A common mistake is checking this exception when you actually did the repairs, which skips the parts list the inspector needs and fails documentation review.
People believe this box is a shortcut to avoid listing parts. It is not; it only applies to genuine “bought-it-already-rebuilt” cases and triggers a different approval path.
Section II, Item 2: Major Component Parts List
This is the heart of the form. It asks you to list the major component parts used in the rebuild, marking each as Aftermarket, Used, Repaired, or Homemade, with the Source/VIN for each.
List every major part you replaced or repaired on its own line, check the correct condition column, and write the donor vehicle’s VIN or supplier source. The form defines major parts as the front-end assembly (fenders, hood, grill, bumper), cowl assembly, rear body section (both quarter panels, deck lid, bumper, floor pan), door assemblies, engine, frame, and transmission; for motorcycles it adds the front fork assembly.
For example, Diego lists Front-end assembly — Used — Source VIN 4T1B…111 and Hood — Aftermarket — NAPA invoice #5567.
If you need more lines than the form gives, use Form HSMV 84491 for overflow rather than cramming entries.
A common mistake is listing a part with no matching receipt or VIN; the rule requires parts to be consistent with the receipts, and any gap fails the inspection.
People think small bolt-on parts must be listed. They do not; only the defined major component parts belong here, and over-listing minor parts just invites confusion.
Section II, Item 3: Detailed Repair Description
When Item 1 does not apply, this box asks you to describe the repairs in detail and reminds you to attach the original MSO, bills of sale, or receipts for all major parts.
Write a plain, specific account of what you fixed and replaced. Make sure each receipt carries the seller’s name, address, telephone, and signature.
For example, Diego writes Replaced collision-damaged front-end assembly and hood; installed used door from donor vehicle; all parts sourced with receipts attached.
If a receipt is missing the seller’s signature or address, it is not valid proof; the inspector can reject it and fail your documentation review.
A common mistake is a vague description like “fixed the front,” which does not match the itemized parts list and creates a discrepancy the inspector must resolve.
People assume a credit card statement counts as a receipt. It does not; the rule requires itemized receipts with the seller’s details and the part’s identification number.
Section II, Item 4: Number of Receipts
This line asks for the total number of receipts you are attaching to the form.
Count your attached receipts and write the exact number. Staple or clip them in the same order you listed parts.
For example, Diego attaches six invoices and writes 6.
If your count does not match the stack, the inspector will recount and flag the difference, which slows the review.
A common mistake is writing a round estimate instead of the true count, which signals sloppy paperwork and invites extra scrutiny.
People think the receipt count is just a formality. It is not; it helps the inspector confirm every listed major part has backing proof.
Section III: Applicant Information and Signature
Section III holds the sworn statement, date, applicant and co-applicant printed names/business, street address, city, state, ZIP, telephone, and signatures. The bold language declares under penalties of perjury that the facts are true and no material information was omitted.
Print your full legal name (or business name) exactly as on your ID, fill in your complete address and phone, enter the date, and sign. If there is a co-applicant or co-owner, that person prints and signs too.
For example, Diego Ramirez prints his name, address 742 Palm Ave, Orlando, FL 32801, phone, dates it 05/12/2026, and signs.
If the vehicle is jointly owned, both owners must sign; a single signature on a jointly titled vehicle can hold up the title transfer.
A common mistake is signing before the form is complete or signing a name that differs from the ID; FLHSMV cross-checks names, and a mismatch triggers a hold.
People believe this signature is routine. It is a perjury declaration, so a false major-parts entry here is a criminal exposure, not a paperwork slip.
Section IV / Section V: DMV and Inspector Use Only
The lower portion is DMV/Inspector Use Only, where an authorized inspector records the VIN, odometer, make, year, color, body, audit number, region number, and marks Yes/No boxes for Secondary VIN Verified, Previous Rebuilt Title, NICB Check, Federal Decal Intact, Replacement VIN Plate/Decal, Vehicle Painted Prior to Inspection, and Component Parts Marked, then signs with a badge ID.
Leave this entirely blank. The inspector completes it during the physical inspection, and their signature attests only to the inspection, not to your Sections I–III.
For example, Diego leaves every box here empty; the PRVIP inspector fills it in at the appointment.
If you write in this section, the inspector must void your entries, and a marked-up inspector section can get the whole form rejected.
A common mistake is filling the odometer or VIN here to “be helpful,” which contaminates the inspector’s certification.
People think completing more of the form speeds things up. Here it does the opposite; this section belongs only to the authorized inspector.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common filers walked through the form. Each table shows what they enter in the main sections.
Scenario 1 — Diego, a DIY owner who rebuilt a collision-salvage Camry himself.
| Form Section | What Diego Enters |
|---|---|
| Top boxes | Checks Motor Vehicle and Rebuilt |
| Section I, Line 1 | VIN 4T1B11HK1KU000000, Year 2019, Make TOYOTA, Body 4D, Color SILVER |
| Section I, Lines 2-3 | Title Number 0123456789, State FL |
| Section I, Line 4 | Initials D.R. on road-operable line |
| Section II, Item 1 | Left blank (he rebuilt it himself) |
| Section II, Item 2 | Front-end assembly Used; Hood Aftermarket; both with source/VIN |
| Section II, Item 3 | Replaced collision-damaged front end and hood with sourced parts |
| Section II, Item 4 | 6 receipts |
| Section III | Prints name, Orlando address, dates 05/12/2026, signs |
| Section IV/V | Left blank for the inspector |
Scenario 2 — Sandra, a licensed dealer rebuilding a flood-salvage F-150 to resell.
| Form Section | What Sandra Enters |
|---|---|
| Top boxes | Checks Motor Vehicle and Rebuilt |
| Section I, Line 1 | VIN 1FTFW1E50MFA00000, Year 2021, Make FORD, Body PK, Color WHITE |
| Section I, Lines 2-3 | Salvage Title Number 9988776655, State FL |
| Section I, Line 4 | Initials S.M. on road-operable line |
| Section II, Item 1 | Left blank (her shop did repairs) |
| Section II, Item 2 | Engine Repaired; Transmission Used with donor VIN; Floor pan Repaired |
| Section II, Item 3 | Dried and replaced flood-damaged wiring; rebuilt engine; used transmission installed |
| Section II, Item 4 | 11 receipts in the dealership’s name |
| Section III | Prints dealership business name, dealer address, dates, signs as authorized agent |
| Section IV/V | Left blank for the inspector |
Scenario 3 — Marcus, a custom builder titling a street rod assembled from parts (ASPT).
| Form Section | What Marcus Enters |
|---|---|
| Top boxes | Checks Motor Vehicle and ASPT |
| Section I, Line 1 | VIN (state-assigned pending), Year 1932, Make ASSEMBLED, Body 2D, Color BLACK |
| Section I, Lines 2-3 | Other/Title Number for the donor MSO and state |
| Section I, Line 4 | Initials M.T. on road-operable line |
| Section II, Item 1 | Left blank (he built it) |
| Section II, Item 2 | Frame Homemade; Engine Aftermarket; Body Aftermarket with sources |
| Section II, Item 3 | Assembled street rod from new aftermarket body, custom frame, crate engine |
| Section II, Item 4 | 9 receipts including MSO |
| Section III | Prints name, address, dates, signs under perjury |
| Section IV/V | Left blank for the inspector |
These three filers — Diego, Sandra, and Marcus — each rely on the same rule: their listed parts must match their receipts and survive the inspector’s physical check.
How to File the Completed Form
You do not mail the 84490 by itself. You complete it, then schedule a rebuilt inspection, and only after the inspection passes do you take the sealed packet to a Tax Collector to apply for the rebuilt title. There are two inspection channels and one titling channel.
- Private PRVIP facility (most common): Schedule an appointment at an authorized Private Rebuilt Vehicle Inspection Program facility, bring the car, documents, and the $40.00 fee (the facility may add its own service fee, itemized separately). The inspector reviews documents, inspects the car, and on a pass enters results the same day, then seals all documents except your 82040 in an envelope and hands it to you.
- State Division of Motorist Services Regional Office: Some Regional Offices conduct rebuilt inspections by appointment for the same $40.00 statutory fee; this is the route for vehicles with missing VINs or other issues a private facility must refer.
- County Tax Collector / Tag Agency (titling step): Take the sealed envelope plus your completed HSMV 82040 to a Tax Collector or tag agency to apply for the Rebuilt title. Expect a title fee of about $77.25 (electronic) to $85.75 (paper), plus any sales tax due, paid by cash, check, or card depending on the office.
For proof of filing, keep your paid inspection receipt, a copy of the sealed envelope’s stamp, and the Tax Collector’s title application receipt. To move the car to the inspection legally, you can get a temporary tag at a Tax Collector or tag agency with a valid license, insurance, and the facility’s stamped appointment notice.
What Happens After You File
After the inspection passes and you submit the packet, the Tax Collector forwards the application to FLHSMV, which issues a new certificate of title permanently branded Rebuilt. The brand stays on the title forever and follows the VIN through NMVTIS, so every future buyer can see the history. Processing for the printed title commonly runs a couple of weeks, though electronic titles update faster in the state record.
If your documentation review or physical inspection fails, the facility gives you a Notice to Rebuilders explaining the corrections, holds your file in a pending status for 60 days, and charges a $20.00 fee for each return visit. Miss the 60-day window and you must start over with a new application, new documents, and a fresh $40.00 fee.
Once you hold the rebuilt title, you register and tag the vehicle like any other car. Many insurers will write liability coverage on a rebuilt vehicle but limit or decline full comprehensive and collision coverage, so call your carrier before you rely on the car.
A common misconception is that the rebuilt brand can be removed later. It cannot; Florida law keeps the brand permanently to protect future buyers.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Using an old revision of the form. An outdated 84490 can be rejected, forcing a re-do.
- Mistyping the VIN. A single wrong character fails the inspector’s physical VIN check.
- Listing parts with no matching receipt. The rule requires parts and receipts to agree, so a gap fails documentation.
- Receipts missing seller name, address, phone, or signature. Incomplete receipts are not valid proof and get rejected.
- Skipping the “before” repair photos. Missing damage photos cause an automatic documentation fail.
- Initialing the road-operable line on an unfinished car. The car fails the physical inspection and you lose the fee.
- Filling in Section IV/V yourself. Writing in the inspector’s section voids it and can sink the whole form.
- Checking the “purchased complete” box when you did the repairs. This skips the required parts list and fails review.
- Forgetting a co-owner’s signature. A jointly owned vehicle needs every owner to sign or the title stalls.
- Mismatching names between the 84490 and the 82040. FLHSMV cross-checks names, and a mismatch triggers a hold.
- Writing a vague repair description. A general note that does not match the parts list creates a discrepancy.
- Guessing the receipt count. A wrong number signals sloppy paperwork and invites extra scrutiny.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do: – Download the form fresh from FLHSMV, because that guarantees the current Rev. 07/24 version. – Take clear “before” photos the day you buy the salvage vehicle, because you cannot recreate them later. – Match every listed part to a signed, itemized receipt, because consistency is what the inspection checks. – Print in black ink and use exact field labels, because clean entries reduce clerk questions. – Schedule the inspection only when the car is truly road-operable, because an unfinished car fails and costs the re-inspection fee. – Keep copies of everything you submit, because they are your proof of filing if anything is lost.
Don’t: – Don’t sign Section III before the form is complete, because you are swearing under penalty of perjury. – Don’t touch Section IV/V, because only an authorized inspector may complete it. – Don’t pay a third-party site for a blank form, because the official copy is free. – Don’t drive the vehicle to inspection without a temporary tag, because an unregistered salvage car on the road risks citation. – Don’t omit a major part to simplify the list, because the physical inspection will find it and flag the discrepancy. – Don’t assume out-of-state receipts are fine as-is, because they still must carry the required seller details and part numbers.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
| Filing Pro Se (On Your Own) | Filing With a Pro (Facility/Service Help) |
|---|---|
| Pro: Saves money, since you avoid service fees on top of the $40 statutory fee | Pro: A PRVIP facility knows the exact paperwork the inspector wants, reducing rejections |
| Pro: You control the timeline and can fix issues at your own pace | Pro: Many facilities pre-check your documents before the formal review |
| Pro: You learn the process for the next rebuild | Pro: Dealers and shops streamline multiple titles at once |
| Pro: Direct contact with the Tax Collector clears questions fast | Pro: Help reduces the risk of the $20 re-inspection fee from a failed visit |
| Pro: No reliance on a third party’s schedule | Pro: Professionals handle tricky VIN or out-of-state brand issues |
| Con: One paperwork slip can cost a re-inspection fee and 60-day delay | Con: Service fees add cost beyond the statutory $40 |
| Con: You must learn the major-parts rules yourself | Con: You depend on the facility’s appointment availability |
| Con: Gathering compliant receipts is time-consuming | Con: Less hands-on understanding of the process |
| Con: Mistakes in Section II are easy to make | Con: Quality varies between facilities |
| Con: No one double-checks your form before submission | Con: Some services oversell unnecessary add-ons |
State Inspection vs. Private PRVIP Facility
| State Regional Office Inspection | Private PRVIP Facility Inspection |
|---|---|
| Run by FLHSMV Division of Motorist Services | Run by a department-authorized private participant |
| Same $40.00 statutory fee, $20.00 re-inspection | $40.00 statutory fee plus a separate itemized service fee |
| Handles referrals like missing VINs and suspicious findings | Cannot inspect missing-VIN cars; must refer to the state |
| Appointment availability can be limited by region | Often more locations and flexible appointment times |
| Inspector completes Section V and seals the packet | Inspector completes Section V and seals the packet |
FAQs
How much does the rebuilt inspection cost? Yes, there is a cost: a $40.00 initial inspection fee set by rule, plus $20.00 for any re-inspection, and private facilities may add a separate, itemized service fee.
Do I fill out Section IV or Section V myself? No. That section is DMV/Inspector Use Only; only an authorized rebuilt facility inspector or state Compliance Examiner completes it during the physical inspection.
Do I write the VIN with dashes or spaces in Section I? No. Enter the full 17-character VIN exactly as on the dash plate, with no dashes or spaces, so it matches the inspector’s physical check.
Should I check the “purchased complete” box if I rebuilt the car myself? No. Item 1 of Section II applies only when you bought the vehicle already rebuilt; if you did the work, leave it blank and list your parts.
Do small parts like mirrors go in the Section II parts list? No. List only the defined major component parts, such as the front-end assembly, engine, frame, transmission, and door assemblies.
Can I get a rebuilt title by mail without showing the car? No. A rebuilt title always requires a physical inspection of the vehicle at an authorized facility or state Regional Office.
Does the rebuilt brand ever come off the title? No. Florida keeps the Rebuilt brand permanently on the title and VIN history to protect future buyers.
Do both owners sign Section III on a jointly owned vehicle? Yes. Each owner listed on the title must print and sign in Section III, or the title transfer can stall.
Is a credit card statement enough proof for a major part? No. You need an itemized receipt showing the seller’s name, address, phone, signature, and the part’s identification number.
Do I need photos of the damage before repairs? Yes. The rule requires “before” pictures of the damaged areas, and missing them causes a documentation fail.
Can I drive the salvage car to the inspection? Yes, but only with a temporary tag obtained from a Tax Collector or tag agency, along with proof of license, insurance, and a stamped appointment notice.
What happens if my inspection fails? Yes, you get a second chance: the facility issues a correction notice, holds your file 60 days, and charges $20.00 per return visit before you must restart.
Do I list the donor vehicle’s VIN for used parts? Yes. Mark the part as Used and write the donor’s source or VIN in the Source/VIN column so it matches your receipts.
Is the rebuilt inspection a safety check of my brakes and lights? No. It verifies the vehicle’s identity and that parts match the paperwork; it is an anti-fraud and anti-theft check, not a safety inspection.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Florida Form HSMV 78063 (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Florida Form HSMV 82111 (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Florida Form HSMV 82119 (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Florida Form HSMV 82223 (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Florida Abandoned/Derelict Vehicle Form (HSMV 82040) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Florida Repossession Title (HSMV 82363) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs