The Iowa DOT Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form 411077, rev. 5-00) is the state form that the seller of a vehicle uses to record the mileage shown on the odometer at the moment ownership changes hands, and both the seller and buyer must sign it. It is filed with your county treasurer as part of the title transfer, and Iowa requires it for most cars and light trucks that are model year 2011 or newer under 761 Iowa Administrative Code 400.40 and the federal rule at 49 CFR 580.17.
Getting the mileage wrong is not a small slip. A false or sloppy entry can lead to a title branded NOT ACTUAL, which can cut a car’s resale value by hundreds or even thousands of dollars, and under federal law it can bring fines and even jail time. The U.S. Department of Justice has long estimated that odometer fraud costs American car buyers more than one billion dollars each year, so this one-page form carries real weight.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📋 What Form 411077 is, who must file it, and which vehicles are exempt
- 🖊️ How to fill out every box on the form, line by line, in plain English
- 🚗 Three real-world filled-out examples you can copy from
- 🏛️ How and where to file it with your Iowa county treasurer
- ⚠️ The most common mistakes that get titles rejected or branded, and how to dodge them
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
Form 411077 is Iowa’s stand-alone Odometer Disclosure Statement. It exists for one reason: to create a written, signed record of a vehicle’s mileage at the point of sale so a later buyer cannot be tricked by a rolled-back odometer. The form is issued by the Iowa Department of Transportation (Iowa DOT), and the completed form is delivered to your local county treasurer, who actually processes vehicle titles in Iowa.
The legal backbone is two-layered. Federal law, found in the Truth in Mileage Act and its rules at 49 CFR Part 580, makes mileage disclosure a national requirement on transfer of ownership. Iowa then adopts and enforces that standard through 761 IAC 400.40 and Iowa Code 321.71, which makes it a serious offense to alter an odometer or file a false mileage statement.
The seller (called the transferor on the form) is the person who must make the disclosure, but the buyer (the transferee) must also sign to acknowledge it. Both private sellers and licensed dealers use this form. A dealer who sells dozens of cars a month files one for nearly every sale, while a private owner selling a single used car files one that one time.
Not every vehicle needs it. Under the updated federal phase-in adopted in Iowa through ARC 5829C, disclosure is required for vehicles that are fewer than 20 model years old, starting with model year 2011. Vehicles model year 2010 and older are exempt, as are trucks with a gross vehicle weight rating over 16,000 pounds, and brand-new vehicles still on the Manufacturer’s Statement of Origin until the first retail sale.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Filling out Form 411077 takes only a few minutes, but a missing detail can send you back to your car or your filing cabinet. Walking the odometer reading and the VIN before you sit down keeps the whole title transfer moving. Below is the pre-filing checklist of everything to gather first.
- The vehicle’s current odometer reading. You copy this number onto the form, and a guessed or rounded reading can clash with the title and trigger a rejection.
- The 17-character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). The county cross-checks the VIN against the title, and one wrong character means the form does not match the vehicle.
- The vehicle’s make, model, body type, and year. These confirm the form describes the right car, and a mismatch forces the treasurer to kick it back.
- The seller’s full legal name and current address. This must match the name on the title being signed over, or the chain of ownership breaks.
- The buyer’s full legal name and address. The form is incomplete without the buyer’s identity, and the treasurer cannot title the car to a blank.
- The current title, properly assigned. The odometer form rides along with the signed title, and without the title there is nothing to transfer.
- The date of sale. This anchors when ownership changed, and a missing date can void the disclosure.
- A working pen with blue or black ink. Pencil or erasable ink is not accepted on a legal mileage statement, and a faint or altered entry looks like tampering.
If any item is missing, do not improvise. A wrong VIN or a blank buyer line is one of the top reasons a county treasurer hands the paperwork back, and each return trip can add days to your registration.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can get a clean copy of Form 411077 from the official source for free, and using the current version matters because older layouts can confuse the treasurer’s clerk. The safest path is to download the official Odometer Statement (Form 411077) directly from the Iowa DOT title page, where it is listed among the documents needed to title a vehicle.
Many Iowa counties also host the same PDF. For example, the form is posted by Crawford County’s treasurer and through the statewide Iowa Tax and Tags portal, which pulls its forms straight from the Iowa DOT. These county copies are identical to the state version, so either source works.
There is one important shortcut. For a used vehicle that already has an Iowa or out-of-state title, the odometer disclosure can often be completed in the boxes printed on the back of the title itself, and a separate Form 411077 is only needed when the title has no odometer area or the space is already used. The Iowa DOT confirms that if the mileage is not noted on the back of the title for a 2011-or-newer vehicle, you use form 411077 or form 411099 instead.
Check the revision date in the lower corner of the page. The current paper form reads “411077 / 5-00,” and confirming that stamp tells you that you have the version Iowa accepts today.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form 411077 Line by Line
Form 411077 is a single page, but every box has a purpose, and the order matters. Work top to bottom, print clearly, and never erase. The walkthrough below covers each field exactly as it is printed on the form.
Field 1: The Statement Header and Warning
What it asks in plain English: The top of the form is a printed warning, not a blank, but you must read it before signing anything. It states that “Federal law and State law requires that you state the mileage upon transfer of ownership. Failure to complete or providing a false statement may result in fines and/or imprisonment.”
How to answer it: You do not write anything in the header. You simply confirm you understand that this is a sworn legal statement, the same way an affidavit works, before you fill in the boxes below it.
A specific example: Maria Lopez, selling her 2018 Honda Civic, reads the warning and recognizes that the mileage she is about to write is a legal certification, not a guess.
A nuance or edge case: If you are filling out the form on behalf of someone else, such as a power-of-attorney holder, the same warning still binds you, and you sign as the authorized agent.
A common mistake and its consequence: Skipping the warning and treating the form as a throwaway leads people to round or estimate the mileage, and an estimate that does not match the title can get the whole transfer rejected.
A misconception people hold: Many think the warning is boilerplate that “doesn’t really apply to a private sale.” It applies to every covered transfer, dealer or private, and the penalties are real.
Field 2: Transferor’s Name (Print)
What it asks in plain English: This line, which reads “I, (Transferor’s Name. Print)”, is where the seller prints their full legal name as the person making the disclosure.
How to answer it: Print your first, middle, and last name in capital letters exactly as they appear on the title you are signing over. Do not use a nickname or initials only.
A specific example: Maria Lopez prints MARIA ELENA LOPEZ on the line.
A nuance or edge case: If two people are listed as owners on the title, such as a married couple, the person who is actually transferring the vehicle prints their name, and a co-owner may need to sign the title separately.
A common mistake and its consequence: Printing a name that does not match the title, such as a maiden name on a title that says the married name, breaks the chain of ownership and forces a correction before the car can be titled.
A misconception people hold: Some sellers think the transferor is the buyer because the buyer “receives” the car. The transferor is always the seller, the one giving up ownership.
Field 3: Odometer Reading (No Tenths)
What it asks in plain English: This is the heart of the form. The line reads “state that the odometer now reads ______ (no tenths) miles.” You enter the exact number of miles showing on the dash.
How to answer it: Write the whole-number mileage with no tenths and no commas drawn as decimals. If the dash shows 86,432.7 miles, you write 86432, dropping the .7. Use the full digit count showing on the odometer.
A specific example: Maria’s 2018 Civic shows 64,118.9 on the cluster, so she writes 64118 in the box.
A nuance or edge case: Six-digit odometers that have “rolled over” past 999,999 cannot show the true number, which is exactly what the checkboxes below this line are for. Digital odometers still count as the reading; you copy the number on the screen.
A common mistake and its consequence: Including the tenths (writing 86432.7) or rounding up to 86500 creates a mismatch with the title and is the single most common reason an odometer statement is bounced.
A misconception people hold: People think “close enough” is fine for high-mileage cars. It is not; the number must be the actual reading on the dash to the whole mile.
Field 4: Checkbox (1) — Exceeds Mechanical Limits
What it asks in plain English: Box (1) reads “I hereby certify that to the best of my knowledge the odometer reading reflects the amount of mileage in excess of its mechanical limits.” You check this only when the odometer has rolled past its maximum and started over.
How to answer it: Leave it blank for a normal car. Check it only when a five- or six-digit odometer has physically run out of digits and restarted, so the displayed number is lower than the true miles.
A specific example: George Becker sells a 2011 work van with a five-digit odometer reading 23,500, but the van has actually traveled 123,500 miles, so George checks Box (1) and writes 23500.
A nuance or edge case: Most modern Iowa-covered vehicles (2011 and newer) have six-digit odometers that rarely roll over, so this box is uncommon, but it still matters for older covered work vehicles.
A common mistake and its consequence: Checking Box (1) “just in case” on a normal car wrongly tells the buyer the true mileage is far higher, which can scare off the buyer and drag down value.
A misconception people hold: People confuse “exceeds mechanical limits” with “high mileage.” It only means the odometer ran out of digits, not that the car simply has a lot of miles.
Field 5: Checkbox (2) — Odometer Discrepancy / NOT Actual Mileage
What it asks in plain English: Box (2) carries the bold header “WARNING — ODOMETER DISCREPANCY” and reads “I hereby certify that the odometer reading is NOT the actual mileage.” You check this when you cannot stand behind the number as true.
How to answer it: Check this box when the odometer is broken, was replaced, was tampered with by a prior owner, or the reading otherwise does not reflect real miles. Checking it brands the resulting title NOT ACTUAL.
A specific example: Daniel Pham bought a car whose dashboard cluster was swapped, so the odometer shows 12,000 but the real mileage is unknown; when he resells, he checks Box (2).
A nuance or edge case: If only the cluster was replaced and you know the true prior mileage, some buyers attach a note documenting the swap, but the safe legal move is still to check Box (2) and disclose.
A common mistake and its consequence: Hiding a known discrepancy by leaving both boxes blank is odometer fraud, and it can bring federal fines, civil suits for triple damages, and even imprisonment under 49 U.S.C. 32705.
A misconception people hold: Sellers think checking Box (2) makes the car worthless. It lowers value, but an honest NOT ACTUAL brand is far cheaper than the penalties for a lie.
Field 6: Vehicle Description — Make, Model, Body Type, VIN, Year
What it asks in plain English: This row asks for the Make, Model, Body Type, Vehicle Identification Number, and Year of the car being sold, so the mileage is tied to a specific vehicle.
How to answer it: Copy each item exactly from the title or registration. Print the VIN one character per space, all 17 characters, in capital letters.
A specific example: Maria writes HONDA / CIVIC / 4-DOOR SEDAN / 19XFC2F59JE012345 / 2018.
A nuance or edge case: Older or specialty vehicles may have shorter VINs; copy exactly what the title shows rather than padding it to 17 characters.
A common mistake and its consequence: Writing the letter “O” instead of the number “0,” or “I” instead of “1,” in the VIN makes the form fail the county’s match against the title and the form gets returned.
A misconception people hold: People assume the VIN on the form is optional because “the title already has it.” The form must independently match the title, so a blank or wrong VIN voids the disclosure.
Field 7: Transferor’s (Seller’s) Signature and Printed Name
What it asks in plain English: This is the “(Transferor’s or Seller’s Signature)” line, followed by a “(Printed Name)” line, where the seller signs and prints their name to certify everything above is true.
How to answer it: Sign in ink the way you normally sign legal documents, then print the same name beneath. The signature must match the transferor name in Field 2.
A specific example: Maria signs her usual cursive signature, then prints MARIA ELENA LOPEZ below it.
A nuance or edge case: If a dealership or estate is the seller, an authorized representative signs and may add their title, such as “as Executor.”
A common mistake and its consequence: Forgetting to sign, or having someone other than the titled owner sign, makes the disclosure invalid and stops the title transfer cold.
A misconception people hold: Some think a printed name alone is enough. Iowa needs the actual signature; the printed line only clarifies the spelling.
Field 8: Transferor’s Address (Street, City, State, Zip)
What it asks in plain English: This block asks for the seller’s current mailing address, split into Street, City, State, and Zip Code.
How to answer it: Print your full current address. Use your real street address, or a P.O. Box only if that is your official mailing address.
A specific example: Maria writes 412 Maple Street / Des Moines / IA / 50309.
A nuance or edge case: If you moved since the title was issued, use your current address here; the address does not have to match the old title.
A common mistake and its consequence: Leaving the address blank can make the county unable to reach the seller if there is a question, which can delay processing.
A misconception people hold: People think the address must match the title exactly. It should be your current address so the county can contact you if needed.
Field 9: Date of Statement
What it asks in plain English: The “Date of Statement” line records the day the seller signs the disclosure, which is normally the day of sale.
How to answer it: Write the date in MM/DD/YYYY format on the day you sign and hand over the car.
A specific example: Maria sells the Civic on June 3, 2026, so she writes 06/03/2026.
A nuance or edge case: If signing and delivery happen on different days, use the date the disclosure is actually signed, and keep the dates consistent with the bill of sale.
A common mistake and its consequence: Backdating or postdating the form to “match” other paperwork can look like an attempt to hide something and may invalidate the disclosure.
A misconception people hold: People think any date in the same week is fine. The date should be the true signing date, because it fixes the moment ownership and mileage were certified.
Field 10: Transferee’s (Buyer’s) Signature and Printed Name
What it asks in plain English: The “(Transferee’s/Buyer’s Signature)” line with its “(Printed Name)” line is where the buyer signs to acknowledge they received and accept the mileage disclosure.
How to answer it: The buyer signs in ink and prints their name. This is not optional; the federal rule requires the transferee to sign and acknowledge the disclosure.
A specific example: Carlos Rivera, buying Maria’s Civic, signs and prints CARLOS RIVERA on the buyer lines.
A nuance or edge case: If two buyers will be co-owners, both should sign; the way names are joined (“and” vs “or”) affects later transfers.
A common mistake and its consequence: A missing buyer signature is one of the most frequent reasons the treasurer returns the form, because an unacknowledged disclosure is legally incomplete.
A misconception people hold: Buyers think only the seller has to sign because the seller is the one “disclosing.” Federal law requires the buyer’s acknowledgment too.
Field 11: Transferee’s Name and Address (Street, City, State, Zip)
What it asks in plain English: This final block asks for the buyer’s full legal name and current address, split into Street, City, State, and Zip Code.
How to answer it: Print the buyer’s name exactly as it will appear on the new title and registration, then the full current address.
A specific example: Carlos writes CARLOS RIVERA / 88 Birch Lane / Ankeny / IA / 50023.
A nuance or edge case: If the buyer is a business, print the full legal business name, and a representative signs on the buyer signature line.
A common mistake and its consequence: A buyer name here that does not match the title application (Form 411007) creates a conflict the county must resolve before titling.
A misconception people hold: People think this can be filled in later at the courthouse. It should be complete and signed at the sale, because the disclosure is meant to capture the moment of transfer.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three of the most common situations Iowans face with Form 411077, each followed from start to finish.
Scenario 1: Private Sale of a Newer Car with Actual Mileage
Maria Lopez sells her 2018 Honda Civic to Carlos Rivera. The odometer is accurate, so she leaves both checkboxes blank and certifies the actual reading.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Transferor’s Name (print) | MARIA ELENA LOPEZ |
| Odometer reads (no tenths) | 64118 |
| Box (1) Exceeds mechanical limits | Left blank |
| Box (2) NOT actual mileage | Left blank |
| Make / Model / Body / VIN / Year | HONDA / CIVIC / 4-DR SEDAN / 19XFC2F59JE012345 / 2018 |
| Transferor’s Signature + Date | Maria’s signature, 06/03/2026 |
| Transferor’s Address | 412 Maple St, Des Moines, IA 50309 |
| Transferee’s Signature + Name | Carlos’s signature, CARLOS RIVERA |
| Transferee’s Address | 88 Birch Lane, Ankeny, IA 50023 |
Scenario 2: High-Mileage Work Van That Exceeded Mechanical Limits
George Becker sells a 2011 cargo van with a five-digit odometer that rolled over. The dash shows 23,500, but the van has truly traveled about 123,500 miles, so he checks Box (1).
| Form Section | What George Enters |
|---|---|
| Transferor’s Name (print) | GEORGE A BECKER |
| Odometer reads (no tenths) | 23500 |
| Box (1) Exceeds mechanical limits | Checked |
| Box (2) NOT actual mileage | Left blank |
| Make / Model / Body / VIN / Year | FORD / E-250 / CARGO VAN / 1FTNE2EW7BDA12345 / 2011 |
| Transferor’s Signature + Date | George’s signature, 05/22/2026 |
| Transferor’s Address | 17 Industrial Rd, Cedar Rapids, IA 52404 |
| Transferee’s Signature + Name | Buyer’s signature, TINA OWENS |
| Transferee’s Address | 905 5th Ave, Marion, IA 52302 |
Scenario 3: Resale of a Car With a Known Odometer Discrepancy
Daniel Pham resells a 2015 sedan whose instrument cluster was replaced by a prior owner, so the true mileage is unknown. He must check Box (2), which results in a NOT ACTUAL title brand.
| Form Section | What Daniel Enters |
|---|---|
| Transferor’s Name (print) | DANIEL Q PHAM |
| Odometer reads (no tenths) | 12000 |
| Box (1) Exceeds mechanical limits | Left blank |
| Box (2) NOT actual mileage | Checked (WARNING — discrepancy) |
| Make / Model / Body / VIN / Year | TOYOTA / CAMRY / 4-DR SEDAN / 4T1BF1FK3FU012345 / 2015 |
| Transferor’s Signature + Date | Daniel’s signature, 06/01/2026 |
| Transferor’s Address | 330 Oak St, Iowa City, IA 52240 |
| Transferee’s Signature + Name | Buyer’s signature, RACHEL KIM |
| Transferee’s Address | 14 Prairie Dr, Coralville, IA 52241 |
How to File the Completed Form
Form 411077 is never filed by itself. It travels with the assigned title and the Application for Iowa Certificate of Title (Form 411007) to your county treasurer, who handles all Iowa titling. You have a limited window to apply, so file promptly after the sale.
In person at the county treasurer. This is the most common channel. Bring the signed title, the completed odometer statement, Form 411007, and a damage disclosure (Form 411108) if the vehicle is eight years old or newer. Find your office through the Iowa County Treasurers directory, pay the title fee (commonly around $25) plus any registration and 5% one-time use tax, and keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing. Accepted payment is usually cash, check, or card depending on the county.
By mail. Many counties accept titling packets by mail. Send the original signed title, the original odometer statement, Form 411007, and a check for the fees to your treasurer’s mailing address, which is listed on the county treasurer site. Use tracked mail and keep the tracking number and copies as your proof of filing; processing typically takes one to three weeks.
The back-of-title method. For a used vehicle whose title already has odometer boxes printed on the back, complete the disclosure there instead of on a separate 411077, as the Iowa DOT instructs. You still deliver the title to the treasurer the same way, and you keep a copy of the assigned title as your record.
When the seller fails to disclose. If you bought a 2011-or-newer vehicle and the mileage was never noted on the title, Iowa lets the buyer use Form 411099 or 411077 to complete the record, which protects the transfer but may brand the title not actual.
What Happens After You File
Once the treasurer accepts your packet, the office records the mileage in the state’s electronic title system and issues a new title in the buyer’s name, with any odometer brand carried forward. If you checked Box (1) or Box (2), that brand stays attached to the VIN permanently and shows up on the new title and on history reports like the federal NMVTIS database.
The new title is usually mailed within a few weeks, though counties that issue paper titles on the spot can be faster. The buyer’s registration and plates are processed at the same time, so the buyer leaves with valid registration even before the printed title arrives.
If the form has an error, the treasurer will reject the packet and explain what to fix. You then correct the form or obtain a new signature and resubmit, which is why an accurate first filing saves real time. Keep your copy of the odometer statement and your filing receipt for at least a few years in case any mileage question comes up later.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Small errors on this one-page form cause most of its rejections. Watch for these:
- Writing tenths in the mileage box. The form says (no tenths), and a decimal entry can be read as the wrong number and bounced.
- Rounding the odometer reading. A rounded number will not match the title and forces a correction.
- Mistyping the VIN. A single wrong character fails the county’s match against the title.
- Leaving the buyer’s signature blank. Federal law requires the transferee to sign, so a blank line voids the disclosure.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name. The transferor name must match the title or the chain of ownership breaks.
- Checking Box (1) on a normal car. This wrongly claims the odometer rolled over and can scare off buyers.
- Leaving a known discrepancy undisclosed. Hiding a bad odometer is fraud that can bring fines and imprisonment.
- Filling it out in pencil. Erasable entries on a legal mileage statement look like tampering and are not accepted.
- Backdating the Date of Statement. A false date can invalidate the disclosure and raise fraud questions.
- Filing it past the application window. Late title applications can add penalties to your fees.
- Using an outdated or wrong form. Always start from the official 411077 (5-00) to be sure the layout is accepted.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do: – Do copy the odometer reading exactly, because the number must match the dash to the whole mile. – Do print clearly in black or blue ink, since clerks must read every character without guessing. – Do confirm the VIN one character at a time, because a match against the title is required. – Do have the buyer sign at the sale, since the transferee acknowledgment is mandatory. – Do keep a copy for your records, so you can answer any later mileage dispute. – Do check the right box for a rolled-over or unknown odometer, because honest disclosure is far cheaper than fraud penalties.
Don’t: – Don’t estimate or round the mileage, because it will clash with the title. – Don’t leave any signature line blank, since an unsigned form is legally incomplete. – Don’t alter or erase an entry, because changes look like tampering and trigger rejection. – Don’t ignore a known odometer problem, since concealment is a federal crime. – Don’t reuse an old draft with the wrong VIN, because mismatches stop the transfer. – Don’t wait weeks to file, because Iowa’s application deadline can bring late penalties.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most private sellers complete Form 411077 themselves, but a dealer or title service can also handle it. Here is how the two paths compare.
Pros of filing on your own: – It is free, because you pay only the standard title and registration fees, not a service charge. – It is fast for a simple sale, since an accurate-mileage car needs only a few boxes filled. – You control accuracy, because you copy the reading and VIN yourself. – You learn the process, which helps with future sales. – No middleman delay, since you hand the packet straight to the treasurer.
Cons of filing on your own: – Errors fall on you, and a wrong VIN or missing signature means a return trip. – Brand decisions are tricky, because choosing between Box (1) and Box (2) confuses many sellers. – No one catches mistakes, so a small slip can delay titling. – You must track deadlines, or face late penalties. – Complex cases get hard, such as estates, rolled-over odometers, or out-of-state titles.
FAQs
Do both the buyer and seller have to sign Form 411077?
Yes. Federal law requires the seller to disclose and the buyer to acknowledge the mileage, so both the transferor and transferee must sign, or the form is incomplete.
Does Form 411077 need to be notarized in Iowa?
No. Iowa does not require notarization of the Odometer Disclosure Statement; the signed certification by the seller and buyer is enough for the county treasurer.
Do I write the tenths of a mile in the odometer box?
No. The form says (no tenths), so you drop the decimal and enter only the whole number of miles showing on the dash.
Do I check Box (1) just because my car has very high mileage?
No. Box (1) only applies when a five- or six-digit odometer has physically rolled past its limit and restarted, not simply when a car has many miles.
Do I write the seller’s name or the buyer’s name on the “Transferor” line?
No, not the buyer. The transferor is always the seller, the person giving up ownership, so the seller prints their name on that line.
Do older vehicles need an odometer disclosure in Iowa?
No. Vehicles model year 2010 and older are exempt; disclosure is required for vehicles fewer than 20 model years old, starting with model year 2011.
Does a heavy truck need Form 411077?
No. Vehicles with a gross vehicle weight rating over 16,000 pounds are exempt from federal odometer disclosure, so they do not use this form.
Can I complete the odometer disclosure on the back of the title instead?
Yes. If a used vehicle’s title has odometer boxes printed on the back, you can disclose there, and a separate Form 411077 is needed only when that space is missing or used.
Do I have to disclose a broken or replaced odometer?
Yes. You must check Box (2) for “NOT actual mileage” when the odometer is broken, replaced, or otherwise unreliable, which brands the title not actual.
Will checking Box (2) hurt my car’s value?
Yes, it lowers resale value, but an honest not actual brand is far less costly than the fines, civil triple damages, and possible jail time for hiding it.
Can the buyer file the disclosure if the seller failed to complete it?
Yes. Iowa lets the buyer use Form 411099 or 411077 to record the mileage when the seller did not disclose, though the resulting title may be branded not actual.
Do I file Form 411077 with the Iowa DOT directly?
No. You file it with your county treasurer along with the title and the Application for Iowa Certificate of Title, because counties process titles in Iowa.
Is there a fee just for the odometer statement?
No. There is no separate charge for Form 411077; you pay the standard title fee (commonly about $25) and applicable registration and use tax when you title the car.
Can I fill out Form 411077 in pencil?
No. Use black or blue ink only, because a legal mileage statement in pencil or erasable ink looks like it could be altered and will be rejected.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Iowa DOT Vehicle Registration Application (Form 411007) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Nebraska DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Oklahoma Odometer Disclosure Statement (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the New Hampshire DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form TDMV 12) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the North Dakota DOT Odometer Disclosure Statement (SFN 18773) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs