The Kansas Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form TR-59) is the document a vehicle seller signs to report the exact mileage on a car at the moment ownership changes hands, and the buyer signs to confirm they saw it. Kansas requires this form, alongside the assigned title, before the county treasurer will issue a new certificate of title for most vehicles under 10 model years old.
This single sheet protects the buyer from mileage fraud, and it protects the seller from being blamed later for a number they never wrote. Federal odometer fraud is a felony that can bring up to three years in prison and a fine as high as $250,000 per violation, so the few lines on this form carry real weight.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📋 What Form TR-59 is, who must file it, and which vehicles are exempt
- 🖊️ How to fill out every box, line by line, with formatting rules
- 👥 Three full, real-world examples walked through start to finish
- 🏛️ How and where to file the form with your county treasurer
- ⚠️ The mistakes that get titles rejected and how to dodge them
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
Form TR-59 is the official Odometer Disclosure Statement published by the Kansas Department of Revenue, Division of Vehicles. The current version is TR-59 (Rev. 12/15), printed in the bottom corner of the sheet, so check that date before you use a copy you found online. The form records the mileage reading at the time of sale and certifies, under penalty of fines and imprisonment, that the number is honest.
The person who must complete and sign the form is the transferor, which is the legal word for the seller or the person giving up the vehicle. The transferee, meaning the buyer or person receiving the vehicle, must also sign to acknowledge the mileage. Both signatures are required, because the form is a two-way certification, not a one-sided note from the seller.
You need this form when the title itself does not already have an odometer section, or when there is no title to assign. Many older Kansas titles and out-of-state titles lack a built-in odometer box, which is exactly when TR-59 steps in under Kansas Administrative Regs. 92-51-42. If the State of Kansas holds your title electronically, you use the related Form TR-40 instead, which combines a power of attorney with the same odometer disclosure.
Not every sale needs this form. Kansas law exempts vehicles that are 10 model years old or older, so a 2014 truck sold in 2026 generally does not require an odometer statement under state rules. Be careful, though: federal law under 49 CFR Part 580 now requires disclosure for 20 years on vehicles of model year 2011 and newer, a rule the TR-40 form spells out in its notice to buyers.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Filling out TR-59 takes minutes once you have the right facts in front of you. Gathering them first prevents the cross-outs and corrections that make county clerks reject a form. Here is the pre-filing checklist of what to collect before you put pen to paper.
- The vehicle title. You need the title number and the state that issued it, both of which sit on the face of the title; without them the treasurer cannot match the form to the right vehicle record.
- The current odometer reading. Walk out to the car and read the dash right before signing, because a stale number from last month can differ by hundreds of miles and create a false statement.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). This 17-character code ties the form to one specific vehicle; a wrong VIN sends your paperwork into a rejection pile.
- The vehicle year, make, model, and body style. These confirm the VIN and help the clerk catch typos; a mismatch flags the file for manual review.
- The seller’s full legal name and address. The name must match the title’s owner; a nickname or shortened name can break the chain of ownership.
- The buyer’s full legal name and address. The buyer signs and prints here, so have their correct spelling and street address ready before the meeting.
- A working pen and the seller present in person. Odometer disclosures cannot be signed by an unauthorized stand-in, so the actual transferor must sign; a missing signature voids the form.
- Knowledge of the mileage’s accuracy. Decide in advance whether the reading is actual, over the mechanical limit, or not actual, because that single checkbox changes the legal meaning of the whole form.
If any item is missing, the safest move is to stop and find it rather than guess. A guessed VIN or an estimated mileage is not a clerical shortcut; it is a false statement on a sworn document. Treasurers process thousands of titles, and the ones that move fastest are the ones that arrive complete and clean.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The official TR-59 lives on the Kansas Department of Revenue website, where you can download and print the Odometer Disclosure Statement for free. This is the only version you should trust, because third-party form sites sometimes host outdated revisions that county offices may question. Print it on plain white paper in black ink, single sided, and do not shrink it to fit.
You can also pick up a paper copy at your local county treasurer’s office, which is the same office that will later process your title. Many county sites, such as Butler County and Johnson County, link directly to the form on their motor vehicle pages. If you walk in, ask the clerk for “the TR-59 odometer statement” by name so you get the right sheet.
For electronic titles held by the state, the form you want is the Power of Attorney and Odometer Disclosure (TR-40), revision 06/21. The two forms serve different situations, so do not mix them up. Use TR-59 for paper titles without an odometer box, and TR-40 when Kansas holds the title electronically and the seller needs the buyer to act on their behalf.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form TR-59 Line by Line
The form flows from top to bottom: identity, mileage, vehicle details, then signatures. Work through it in order, use all capital letters where possible for legibility, and never write outside a box. Below is each field on TR-59, in the order it appears, with how to answer it and the traps to avoid.
1. “I, ___” (Transferor’s Name at the Top)
This opening line asks for the name of the person making the disclosure, meaning the seller. Write your full legal name exactly as it appears as the owner on the title, in clear print. For example, DAVID R. MILLER writes his name here, matching the “David R. Miller” shown on his Kansas title.
If the title lists two owners joined by “and,” both must be named and both must sign later; if it says “or,” one owner can act alone. A common edge case is a recently married seller whose title still shows a maiden name, in which case you use the name on the title and bring proof of the name change. The most common mistake here is writing a nickname like “Dave” instead of the legal name, which breaks the match against the title and stalls the transfer. Many sellers wrongly believe this top line is just a label; it is actually the legal identity of the person swearing to the mileage.
2. Title Number
This field asks for the unique number printed on the certificate of title. Copy it exactly from the title, character for character, including any leading zeros. For example, K1234567890 is copied straight off the face of David’s title.
If you are using TR-59 because there is no title, you instead check the box for “transfer of vehicle without title” and attach the legal affidavit or court document. A frequent edge case is a worn or smudged title where a digit is hard to read; call the treasurer rather than guessing. The common mistake is transposing two digits, which links your form to the wrong vehicle record and gets it kicked back. People often assume any old number from the paperwork will do, but only the exact title number ties the disclosure to the correct vehicle.
3. State Title Issued
This box asks which state issued the title you are transferring. Write the full state name or its standard two-letter abbreviation, such as KS for a Kansas title or MO for a Missouri one. David, transferring a Kansas title, writes KS here.
If the car carries an out-of-state title, you still complete TR-59, and the issuing state’s name matters because the clerk verifies the title’s origin. A common edge case is a vehicle recently moved into Kansas that still holds another state’s title; you list that state, not Kansas. The mistake to avoid is leaving this blank because it “seems obvious,” which forces the clerk to chase you for the answer. Some sellers think this should be the buyer’s state of residence; it is the state that issued the title, nothing else.
4. Check the Appropriate Box (Statement Type)
Near the top, the form offers three boxes: original odometer disclosure, correction to a prior disclosure, or statement for transfer without title. Check exactly one to tell the treasurer what this form is doing. For a normal sale, David checks Original odometer disclosure statement for vehicle.
Use the correction box only when fixing an earlier disclosure that had a wrong reading, and be ready to explain the change. The without title box applies to inheritance, court orders, or lost-title affidavits, and it must come with the supporting document attached. The common mistake is checking two boxes or none, which makes the form’s purpose unclear and triggers a rejection. Filers often think “original” means the original paper copy; here it simply means this is the first disclosure for this transfer, not a correction.
5. “Certify That the Odometer Now Reads ___ Miles”
This is the heart of the form, asking for the exact mileage showing on the dash right now. Read the odometer at the time of sale and write the whole number with no tenths and no commas needed, just the digits. David reads 87,452 and writes that figure in the box.
Use the number exactly as displayed, and do not round up or down, because the buyer is relying on this figure. A key edge case is a six-digit digital odometer versus an old five-digit mechanical one that may have rolled over, which connects directly to the next field. The biggest mistake here is writing last week’s mileage instead of today’s, since the car kept moving and the number is now false. Some sellers believe a small estimate is harmless; on a sworn federal document, even a guessed mileage is a false odometer statement.
6. Mileage Status Box (Actual / In Excess / Not Actual)
The form then asks you to certify the meaning of that number with one of three boxes: Actual mileage, In excess of its mechanical limits, or Not the actual mileage (Warning, odometer discrepancy). Check the one that is true. For a normal, trustworthy odometer, David checks Actual mileage.
Check In excess of its mechanical limits when an old five-digit odometer has rolled past 99,999 and started over, so the displayed number is lower than the true mileage. Check Not the actual mileage when the odometer is broken, was replaced, or you simply cannot vouch for the reading; this is a formal discrepancy warning to the buyer. The serious mistake is checking “Actual mileage” out of habit on a car with a replaced cluster, which can become odometer fraud under 49 U.S.C. 32705. A widespread misconception is that “Not actual mileage” means you did something wrong; it is an honest, legal disclosure that actually shields you from liability.
7. Vehicle Information: Year, Make, Model, Body Style
This group of fields asks you to describe the vehicle. Enter the model year, the make (manufacturer), the model, and the body style, all copied from the title. David writes 2016, FORD, F-150, and PICKUP.
Match these to the title rather than to memory, since trim and body-style names vary. A common edge case is a body style the title labels differently than the brochure, such as “utility” for an SUV; use the title’s wording. The mistake to avoid is mixing up make and model, like writing “F-150” under make, which confuses the record. Some people skip body style thinking it is optional; the clerk uses it to confirm the VIN, so fill it in.
8. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the vehicle’s 17-character VIN. Copy it carefully, in capital letters, with no spaces or dashes, double-checking each character. David enters 1FTEW1EF5GFA12345 from his title and door jamb.
VINs use letters and numbers but never the letters I, O, or Q, so if you “see” one of those it is really a 1 or a 0. A common edge case is a pre-1981 vehicle with a shorter VIN, which is normal for its age. The classic mistake is swapping a zero for the letter O or a 1 for an I, which points the form at no valid vehicle and guarantees a kickback. Many filers think a partial VIN is enough; the full 17 characters are required to title the car.
9. Transferor’s Signature and Date
This line is where the seller signs and dates the form, turning it into a sworn statement. Sign in ink and write the date as the day of transfer in MM/DD/YYYY format. David signs his name and dates it 06/05/2026.
The signature must be the seller’s own, made at or near the time of sale, because the date anchors the legal moment of disclosure. An edge case is a seller acting through a proper power of attorney, which requires the TR-40 form rather than a casual stand-in signature. The most damaging mistake is leaving the signature blank, which makes the entire disclosure void and unusable for titling. Some sellers think a typed or printed name counts as a signature; the form needs an actual handwritten signature to be valid.
10. Transferor’s Hand Printed Name and Address
Below the signature, the form asks the seller to hand print their name and write their full address. Print clearly in block letters so the clerk can read the name that goes with the signature. David prints DAVID R. MILLER and 412 OAK ST, TOPEKA, KS 66603.
The printed name backs up a signature that may be hard to read, and the address lets the state contact you if a question arises. A common edge case is a recent move; use your current mailing address, not the one on an old title. The mistake to avoid is signing but skipping the printed name, leaving the clerk unable to confirm who signed. Filers sometimes use a P.O. Box only; include a physical address when the form has room, since the state prefers a street location.
11. Transferee’s Signature and Date
This line is for the buyer to sign and date, confirming they are aware of the mileage the seller disclosed. The buyer signs in ink and writes the same transfer date in MM/DD/YYYY form. David’s buyer, Sarah Nguyen, signs and dates it 06/05/2026.
The buyer’s signature is not optional; the disclosure is a mutual acknowledgment, and a missing buyer signature voids the form just as a missing seller signature does. A common edge case is a vehicle bought by a business, where an authorized representative signs and notes their role. The mistake to avoid is the buyer signing a blank or incomplete form before the mileage is filled in, which leaves them unprotected. Buyers often assume only the seller needs to sign an odometer statement; both parties must sign for it to be legal.
12. Transferee’s Hand Printed Name and Address
The final fields ask the buyer to hand print their name and address. The buyer prints their full legal name and current address in block letters. Sarah prints SARAH NGUYEN and 88 PINE AVE, LAWRENCE, KS 66044.
This information identifies the new owner and supports the title application that follows. A common edge case is two buyers taking joint ownership, where both should print and sign if the title will list both names. The mistake to avoid is using an address that will not match the title application, which can slow processing. Some buyers think this address sets where the car is registered; registration is handled on the separate title application, not here.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Reading the fields one at a time helps, but seeing a full form come together makes it click. Below are three of the most common Kansas situations, each followed through TR-59 from top to bottom. Each table shows the form section on the left and the exact entry on the right.
Example 1: David Sells a Clean, Late-Model Truck (Actual Mileage)
David Miller of Topeka sells his 2016 Ford F-150 to Sarah Nguyen. The odometer works, the title is on paper with no odometer box, and the mileage is honest.
| Form Section | What David Enters |
|---|---|
| I, (Transferor’s name) | DAVID R. MILLER |
| Title Number | K1234567890 |
| State Title Issued | KS |
| Statement type box | Original odometer disclosure |
| Odometer now reads | 87,452 miles |
| Mileage status box | Actual mileage |
| Year / Make / Model / Body | 2016 / FORD / F-150 / PICKUP |
| VIN | 1FTEW1EF5GFA12345 |
| Transferor signature / date | David R. Miller / 06/05/2026 |
| Transferee signature / date | Sarah Nguyen / 06/05/2026 |
Example 2: Maria Sells an Old Sedan That “Rolled Over” (In Excess of Mechanical Limits)
Maria Lopez of Wichita sells a 1994 Honda Accord with a five-digit mechanical odometer reading 32,118. The car has truly traveled 132,118 miles, so the display has rolled past its limit. Note that because the car is over 10 model years old, Kansas may not require the form, but Maria completes it anyway to protect herself.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| I, (Transferor’s name) | MARIA E. LOPEZ |
| Title Number | K9876543210 |
| State Title Issued | KS |
| Statement type box | Original odometer disclosure |
| Odometer now reads | 32,118 miles |
| Mileage status box | In excess of its mechanical limits |
| Year / Make / Model / Body | 1994 / HONDA / ACCORD / SEDAN |
| VIN | 1HGCD5630RA098765 |
| Transferor signature / date | Maria E. Lopez / 06/05/2026 |
| Transferee signature / date | James Carter / 06/05/2026 |
Example 3: Marcus Sells a Car With a Replaced Cluster (Not Actual Mileage)
Marcus Brown of Overland Park sells a 2018 Chevrolet Malibu whose instrument cluster was replaced after a wreck. The new cluster reads 41,000, but the true mileage is unknown, so he must warn the buyer.
| Form Section | What Marcus Enters |
|---|---|
| I, (Transferor’s name) | MARCUS T. BROWN |
| Title Number | K5551234567 |
| State Title Issued | KS |
| Statement type box | Original odometer disclosure |
| Odometer now reads | 41,000 miles |
| Mileage status box | Not the actual mileage (discrepancy) |
| Year / Make / Model / Body | 2018 / CHEVROLET / MALIBU / SEDAN |
| VIN | 1G1ZD5ST5JF123456 |
| Transferor signature / date | Marcus T. Brown / 06/05/2026 |
| Transferee signature / date | Aisha Reed / 06/05/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
TR-59 is not mailed to the state on its own; it travels with the title to the county treasurer’s office where the buyer lives or garages the vehicle. The official instruction printed on the form is simple: attach the original to the title, and give the seller and buyer each a copy. The buyer then takes the title and attached TR-59 to the treasurer when applying for a new title and registration.
There is no separate fee for the odometer statement itself, but the title and registration it supports carry their own charges. In a county like Riley, expect roughly a $10 title fee and a $10.50 transfer fee, plus any sales tax due on the purchase price. Counties accept cash, check, and usually card; confirm payment methods with your specific treasurer before you go.
You must apply within 60 days of the purchase or title-assignment date to avoid penalties, per the deadline the Department of Revenue lists for title and registration. Filing is done in person at the treasurer’s counter, and some counties allow mail-in title work; ask first. Keep your stamped copy of the title application and your personal copy of TR-59 as your proof of filing, since these are your evidence that you disclosed the mileage honestly and on time.
For electronic titles, the path is different: the seller and buyer use the TR-40 form, and the buyer surrenders the electronic title through the county office. The same 60-day clock and the same county-treasurer channel apply.
What Happens After You File
Once the buyer submits the title with the attached TR-59, the county treasurer enters the transfer and the disclosed mileage into the state’s vehicle record. The mileage becomes part of the vehicle’s permanent history, which feeds into title-history reports that future buyers may check. This is why an honest “Not actual mileage” box matters: it follows the car forward and warns everyone down the line.
The treasurer issues a new certificate of title in the buyer’s name, usually mailed within a few weeks, along with the new registration and plate. If the paperwork is clean, the buyer drives away titled and tagged on the same visit using a temporary permit while the title prints. If there is a lien, the Division of Vehicles will not issue certain titles until the lien is recorded or cleared, which can add time.
Should an error surface later, such as a wrong reading caught after filing, you fix it by submitting a corrected TR-59 with the correction box checked, or an Affidavit of Correction. Keeping your copies makes any later correction far easier, because you can show what was originally disclosed and when.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Small slips on this short form cause big delays, because the treasurer cannot title a vehicle on a flawed disclosure. Watch for these errors.
- Checking the wrong mileage box. Marking “Actual mileage” on a car with a replaced odometer can become federal odometer fraud.
- Writing an old or estimated reading. A number that is not today’s true mileage is a false statement on a sworn form.
- Transposing VIN characters. A single swapped digit points the form at no valid vehicle and gets it rejected.
- Using a nickname instead of a legal name. A name that does not match the title breaks the ownership chain and stalls processing.
- Leaving the seller signature blank. An unsigned disclosure is legally void and cannot support a title.
- Forgetting the buyer’s signature. The form is a mutual acknowledgment, so a missing buyer signature voids it too.
- Checking two statement-type boxes. Marking both “original” and “correction” makes the form’s purpose unclear and triggers a kickback.
- Skipping the title number or issuing state. Missing these forces the clerk to chase you and delays the title.
- Rounding the mileage. Altering the reading up or down misstates the figure the buyer relies on.
- Using the wrong form for an electronic title. TR-59 cannot replace the TR-40 when Kansas holds the title electronically.
- Crossing out and rewriting entries. Heavy edits make a sworn form look altered and invite rejection or a fresh form.
- Missing the 60-day filing window. Filing late triggers penalties on the title and registration.
Do’s and Don’ts
A quick set of habits keeps your TR-59 clean and accepted on the first try.
- Do read the odometer at the moment of sale, because the certified number must be true right then.
- Do print in capital letters and black ink, since legible entries move through the counter faster.
- Do match every name and number to the title, as the clerk verifies the form against the title record.
- Do keep your own signed copy, because it is your proof of honest, timely disclosure.
- Do pick the correct mileage box honestly, since an accurate discrepancy warning protects you legally.
- Do file within 60 days, to avoid penalties on the title and registration.
- Don’t sign a blank or partial form, because you would be swearing to information that is not there.
- Don’t guess at a VIN or mileage, since a guess on a sworn form is a false statement.
- Don’t use white-out or scribble corrections, as altered-looking forms get rejected.
- Don’t reuse an outdated form revision, because counties may refuse anything but the current TR-59 (Rev. 12/15).
- Don’t confuse make and model, since reversed fields confuse the vehicle record.
- Don’t skip the buyer’s acknowledgment, because the form is invalid without both signatures.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most private sellers complete TR-59 themselves, but some lean on a dealer, title service, or attorney. Here is how the two paths compare.
| Filing on Your Own | Filing With Professional Help |
|---|---|
| Free, since there is no charge to print and complete the form yourself. | Costs a service or attorney fee on top of state title charges. |
| Fast for a simple, clean sale you can finish in minutes. | Slower, because you wait on a third party’s schedule. |
| Full control over accuracy when you double-check each box yourself. | Expert review can catch errors a first-time filer misses. |
| Good for standard actual-mileage sales between two individuals. | Better for messy cases like lost titles, estates, or discrepancies. |
| You keep your own copies and learn the process for next time. | The pro handles the county filing and corrections for you. |
The choice usually comes down to how complicated the transfer is. A routine sale of a working, titled car rarely needs help, while an inherited vehicle with no title or a known odometer discrepancy can justify paying for guidance.
FAQs
Do I write today’s mileage or the mileage from when we agreed on the price?
Yes, write the mileage showing on the dash the day you sign, not an earlier figure, because the certification must be true at the moment of transfer.
Do both the buyer and seller have to sign Form TR-59?
Yes, both the transferor and transferee must sign and print their names, since the disclosure is a mutual acknowledgment that is void if either signature is missing.
Is TR-59 required for a car that is more than 10 years old?
No, Kansas generally exempts vehicles 10 model years and older, though federal law still requires disclosure for 20 years on model-year 2011 and newer vehicles.
Do I check “Actual mileage” if the odometer was recently replaced?
No, check “Not the actual mileage” when the odometer was replaced or you cannot vouch for the reading, because claiming “actual” could be odometer fraud.
Should I write the mileage with commas and decimal points in the odometer box?
No, write the whole-number mileage with no tenths and no need for commas, entering the digits exactly as the dash displays them.
Do I put the buyer’s state or the title’s state in the “State Title Issued” box?
No, that box is for the state that issued the title you are transferring, not the buyer’s home state or where the car is registered.
Is a typed or printed name enough in the signature line?
No, the form needs an actual handwritten signature in ink; a typed or printed name does not make the disclosure valid.
Do I use TR-59 if Kansas holds my title electronically?
No, use the TR-40 Power of Attorney and Odometer Disclosure when the state holds the title electronically, since TR-59 is for paper titles.
Can I fix a wrong mileage after I already filed the form?
Yes, submit a corrected TR-59 with the “Correction” box checked or an Affidavit of Correction, ideally with your original copy attached.
Is there a fee to file the Odometer Disclosure Statement?
No, the form itself carries no separate fee, though the title and registration it supports have their own charges plus any sales tax.
Do I file TR-59 directly with the Kansas Department of Revenue?
No, you attach the original to the title and submit it at your county treasurer’s office, which processes the title and registration.
Does “In excess of its mechanical limits” mean the engine is worn out?
No, it means a five-digit odometer rolled past 99,999 and started over, so the displayed number is lower than the true mileage.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Iowa DOT Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form 411077) — With Examples + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Kansas Application for Certificate of Title (TR-212a) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Kansas Application for Duplicate Title (TR-720B) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Kentucky Odometer Disclosure Statement (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Oklahoma Odometer Disclosure Statement (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Mississippi DOR Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs