The Maine Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale is the one-page form that records the sale of a car between a seller and a buyer, and the Maine Bureau of Motor Vehicles (BMV) treats it as your proof of purchase when you register and title the vehicle. You fill it out with the price, the vehicle details, the odometer reading, the lien status, and both parties’ signatures, then the buyer takes it to the town office and a BMV branch to finish the transfer.
A clean, correct bill of sale is what stands between you and a smooth registration. Maine charges a flat 5.5% sales tax on the price you write in this form, so a wrong number here changes what the buyer pays at the counter, and a blank odometer box can stall the whole title transfer. The BMV processes hundreds of thousands of title and registration transactions each year, and missing or sloppy paperwork is one of the most common reasons a counter clerk hands the form back. You can grab the official Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale from the Secretary of State’s website any time.
Here is what you will walk away knowing:
- 🚗 How to fill out every line of the Maine bill of sale, from the price box to the buyer’s signature.
- 🧾 How the price you write controls the 5.5% sales tax the buyer owes at registration.
- 🔢 How to handle the odometer disclosure statement, including rollovers and “not actual mileage” cars.
- 🏛️ Where and how to file the form with your town office and the Maine BMV.
- ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that get a bill of sale rejected and how to dodge each one.
What the Maine Bill of Sale Is and Who Must File It
A Maine Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale is a legal record that ownership of a specific vehicle passed from one person to another for an agreed price on a set date. It names the seller, the buyer, the vehicle, the dollar amount, the mileage, and the lien status, and both sides sign it. The form is published by the Maine Secretary of State, which oversees the BMV, so it is the version Maine counter clerks expect to see.
The buyer is the one who needs this form, because Maine requires a signed bill of sale to register a vehicle bought from a private seller or an out-of-state dealer. The seller’s job is to fill in the vehicle data, the price, and the odometer reading, then sign first. The buyer signs second to show they saw the odometer disclosure, then carries the form to the town office and the BMV.
This form matters in private-party sales most of all. When you buy from a licensed Maine dealer, the dealer hands you their own sales agreement, and that document does the same job. But person-to-person, gift, and inheritance transfers all lean on this BMV bill of sale to prove the deal happened. The form does not have a printed revision date, so always download a fresh copy from the BMV site rather than reusing an old PDF, because the layout can change without a version number to warn you.
The bill of sale also works hand in hand with three other items: the vehicle title signed over by the previous owner, the excise tax receipt from your town, and the 5.5% sales tax you pay at registration. Each one depends on the others. The price on the bill of sale feeds the sales tax math, the title proves the chain of ownership, and the town excise receipt is what lets you walk out with plates.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything before you open the form, because a half-finished bill of sale with a guessed VIN or a blank price is worse than no form at all. The buyer cannot register the car until every field lines up with the title and the BMV records. Pull these items together first.
- The vehicle title. You need the exact owner names and the VIN from the title so the bill of sale matches it; a mismatch will stall the transfer.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Copy all 17 characters from the title or the dashboard plate, because one wrong digit makes the form point to a different car.
- The current odometer reading. Read it the day you sign, with no tenths, since a stale or rounded number can trigger an odometer discrepancy flag.
- The agreed purchase price. Settle the final dollar amount in writing, because this number sets the buyer’s 5.5% sales tax bill.
- Seller’s full legal name and address. These must match the seller’s ID and the title, or the BMV may question who actually owned the car.
- Buyer’s full legal name and address. The buyer’s address decides which town collects excise tax, so get it right.
- Lien payoff information, if any. If a loan is still attached, you need a lien release or payoff letter, because an active lien blocks a clean title transfer.
- Proof of insurance for the buyer. Maine requires it before registration, so the buyer should have a policy ready the day of sale.
- Photo ID for both parties. The town office and BMV will check identity, and a name that does not match the ID can hold up the paperwork.
- A pen and a printer. The form is filled out and printed, not submitted online, so a blue or black pen and a printed copy are required.
If any item is missing, the most common casualty is the registration appointment itself. A buyer who shows up without a signed bill of sale, a signed title, or proof of insurance gets turned away and has to come back, sometimes after the temporary plate or grace period has run out.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The official form lives on the Maine Secretary of State website as a downloadable PDF. Go straight to the Motor Vehicle Bill of Sale page, where you can fill it on screen or print it blank and write by hand. The full list of BMV documents sits on the BMV forms and applications page if you need related paperwork like the odometer statement.
Maine notes that these forms open best in Adobe Acrobat, and that Microsoft Edge sometimes fails to open or fill them. If a form will not load or save your typing, switch to Chrome or Firefox. None of these forms can be submitted online; you complete them, print them, and bring or mail them to the office named on the document.
You can also pick up a paper bill of sale at any BMV branch office, and many town offices keep copies at the counter. Avoid third-party “template” sites when you can, because some of them add notarization lines or fields that the official Maine form does not use, and that can confuse a buyer about what Maine actually requires.
A handful of related forms travel with this one. The standard bill of sale already contains an odometer section, but Maine also publishes a separate MVT-32 Odometer Information statement for cases that need a standalone disclosure. The title application paperwork (the “blue title application” and related title forms) is handled at the BMV branch and is not posted for download, so you complete those in person.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Maine Bill of Sale Line by Line
Work through the form top to bottom in the exact order the fields appear. The seller fills in everything from the parties down through the lien section and signs first, and the buyer signs last. Print clearly, use one consistent ink color, and do not leave a required box blank.
1. Seller (please print)
This line asks for the full legal name of the person selling the vehicle. Print it in capital letters exactly as it appears on the vehicle title, first name then last name, so the chain of ownership reads cleanly. For example, JAMES R. CARROLL prints his name to match the title and his Maine driver’s license.
Use the seller’s legal name, not a nickname or a business shorthand. If two people are listed as owners on the title, both names belong here, joined by “and,” because both owners must sign the form later. A common edge case is a recently married seller whose title still shows a maiden name; in that case, write the name as it reads on the title and bring the marriage certificate to the BMV to explain the change.
The most common mistake on this field is using a nickname like Jim instead of James, and the direct consequence is a name mismatch between the bill of sale and the title that makes a clerk question whether the seller had the right to sell. A misconception people hold is that the printed name is just a formality because they are signing below anyway; in truth, the printed name is what the BMV reads first, and a sloppy or wrong name slows the transfer.
2. Buyer (please print)
This line asks for the full legal name of the person buying the vehicle. Print it in capital letters as it appears on the buyer’s photo ID, because this is the name that will go on the new title and registration. For example, MARIA L. SANTOS prints her name to match her Maine ID.
Enter the name of the person who will actually own and register the car. If a married couple wants both names on the title, list both buyers here, joined by “and,” so the title can be issued in both names. An edge case shows up when a parent buys a car for a teen; the registered owner’s name is what matters, so write the name of whoever will hold the title.
The most common mistake is writing the wrong spelling of the buyer’s name, and the consequence is a title issued with a typo that the buyer later has to pay to correct. A misconception is that the buyer’s name here is informal because the buyer signs at the bottom; in fact, this printed name flows directly onto the new title, so accuracy here saves a correction fee later.
3. Purchase Price
This field asks how much the buyer is paying the seller for the vehicle. Write the agreed dollar amount in the blank after the dollar sign, in numbers, with no commas needed but with cents if any apply. For example, $8,500.00 shows a clear, final sale price.
Enter the true, full price you both agreed to. Maine uses this exact figure to calculate the buyer’s 5.5% sales tax, so the number must be honest and legible. A frequent edge case is a gift or family transfer; for a true gift, sellers often write $1.00 or $0.00, but Maine can tax based on the vehicle’s fair market value, so a near-zero price does not always mean near-zero tax.
The most common mistake on this field is writing a price lower than the real one to dodge tax, and the consequence is that the BMV can assess tax on the vehicle’s book value anyway and the false figure can expose both parties to penalties. A misconception is that the buyer and seller can freely “agree” on any low number for tax purposes; the state may override a price that looks far below market value.
4. Year
This box asks for the model year of the vehicle, not the year you are selling it. Write the four-digit year that appears on the title and registration. For example, 2016 identifies a 2016 model.
Copy the year straight from the title so it matches BMV records. The model year also decides whether a title is even required, because in Maine, vehicles 25 years old and newer need a title, while older vehicles may transfer on the bill of sale and registration alone. An edge case is a vehicle sold late in a calendar year whose model year is the next year; trust the title, not the calendar.
The most common mistake is guessing the year or confusing model year with sale year, and the consequence is a vehicle record that does not match the title. A misconception is that the year is minor detail; it actually drives the title requirement, so getting it wrong can change what paperwork the buyer needs.
5. Make
This box asks for the manufacturer of the vehicle. Write the brand name as it appears on the title, such as TOYOTA, FORD, or HONDA. For example, FORD identifies the maker of an F-150.
Use the standard make name, not a sub-brand or trim level. An edge case is a vehicle whose make and division differ, like a GMC versus a Chevrolet; write what the title shows. Keep it simple and match the title’s spelling.
The most common mistake is writing a model name in the make box, such as putting Mustang where Ford belongs, and the consequence is a confusing record that a clerk has to untangle. A misconception is that make and model are interchangeable; they are separate fields, and mixing them slows the review.
6. Model
This box asks for the specific model of the vehicle within that make. Write the model exactly as the title lists it, such as CAMRY, F-150, or CIVIC. For example, CAMRY identifies the model of a Toyota.
Match the title’s model name, including the trim designation only if the title shows it. An edge case is a model with a number-letter combination, like F-150 or CR-V; copy the punctuation exactly. Do not add details the title does not list.
The most common mistake is leaving the model vague or blank, and the consequence is that the form does not clearly identify the car among similar vehicles. A misconception is that the VIN alone is enough so the model can be skipped; the form asks for both, and a blank box invites a clerk to send it back.
7. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the unique 17-character code that identifies this exact vehicle. Copy every character from the title or the VIN plate, with no spaces and no guessing on hard-to-read characters. For example, 1HGCM82633A004352 is a full 17-character VIN.
Double-check each character, because the VIN is the single most important identifier on the form. Note that VINs use the letters I, O, and Q sparingly, so a character that looks like a zero is almost always a zero, not the letter O. An edge case is an older or rebuilt vehicle with a shorter VIN; copy exactly what the title shows even if it is not 17 characters.
The most common mistake is a single wrong character, and the consequence is that the form legally points to a different vehicle, which can void the registration and force a redo. A misconception is that the VIN is just a serial number that does not matter much; it is the legal fingerprint of the car, and one bad digit can derail the entire transfer.
8. Body Type
This box asks for the general body style of the vehicle. Write the type as the title describes it, such as SEDAN, SUV, PICKUP, or VAN. For example, SUV describes a sport utility vehicle.
Match the title’s body description so the records agree. An edge case is a vehicle that could fit two categories, like a crossover that the title calls a station wagon; use the title’s word, not your own. Keep the entry short and standard.
The most common mistake is inventing a body type that does not match the title, and the consequence is a small but real discrepancy that a careful clerk may flag. A misconception is that body type is purely cosmetic information; the BMV uses it to confirm the form describes the same vehicle the title does.
9. Color
This box asks for the vehicle’s main exterior color. Write the primary color in plain words, such as SILVER, BLACK, or RED. For example, SILVER describes a silver Camry.
Use one main color even if the car has accents or two tones; pick the dominant shade. An edge case is a repainted vehicle whose color differs from the title; write the current real color and be ready to explain the change. There is no need to match a manufacturer’s fancy paint name.
The most common mistake is overthinking the color or using a marketing name like Midnight Pearl, and the consequence is a record that does not match the plain color the BMV expects. A misconception is that color must match the title exactly; the current true color is what matters, and a repaint is fine to note.
10. Odometer Disclosure Statement (Mileage Reading)
This section asks the seller to state the vehicle’s current mileage, with the line reading “the odometer now reads ___ (No Tenths).” Write the whole-number mileage shown on the dash, dropping the tenths. For example, 87,432 records the reading on an odometer showing 87,432.6 miles.
Read the odometer on the day you sign and copy the number exactly, because federal and Maine law under Title 29-A, Section 752 require an accurate odometer disclosure on transfer. An edge case is a digital dash that you must power on to read; turn the key to accessory mode to see the true number. Never round up or down.
The most common mistake is guessing or estimating the mileage, and the consequence is a false odometer statement, which is a legal violation that can carry penalties and void the sale. A misconception is that mileage is just a courtesy detail for old cars; it is a federally mandated disclosure, and skipping it can stop the title transfer cold.
11. Odometer Box 1 — “Mileage in Excess of Mechanical Limits”
This checkbox is for when the odometer has rolled past its maximum and started over at zero. Check it only if the true mileage is higher than the number the odometer can display. For example, an owner of a 1992 truck with a 5-digit odometer reading 012,500 but actually near 212,500 miles checks this box.
Leave it unchecked on any modern 6-digit odometer that still shows the real total. The edge case this box exists for is the classic 5-digit rollover, where the dash physically cannot show six figures. Only check it if you know the odometer wrapped around.
The most common mistake is ignoring this box on an old high-mileage car, and the consequence is an odometer reading that looks far too low and a future buyer who feels misled. A misconception is that this box means the odometer is broken; it actually certifies that the displayed number rolled over, which is an honest disclosure, not a defect claim.
12. Odometer Box 2 — “Not the Actual Mileage” (Discrepancy Warning)
This checkbox is the warning that the odometer reading does not reflect true mileage. Check it when the odometer is broken, was replaced, or otherwise cannot be trusted. For example, a seller whose dash cluster was swapped checks this box and warns the buyer the number is unreliable.
Use this box honestly, because checking it brands the title with an “odometer discrepancy” brand that follows the car. The edge case is a replaced instrument cluster with a different reading than the original; that situation calls for this box. Never check it just to avoid effort on the math.
The most common mistake is leaving this box blank when the odometer truly is wrong, and the consequence is a false disclosure that exposes the seller to legal liability. A misconception is that checking this box is harmless; it permanently flags the title and lowers the vehicle’s value, so check it only when it is genuinely true.
13. Lien Holder Information
This section asks whether a lender still has a claim on the vehicle, with a checkbox stating “I certify that there is no active lienholder on this vehicle.” Check the box only if the car is paid off and free of any loan. For example, JAMES R. CARROLL, who paid off his auto loan last year, checks the no-lien box.
If a loan is still active, do not check the box; instead, the seller must get a lien release or payoff so the lender’s interest can be cleared before the title transfers. The edge case is a loan being paid off at the moment of sale, often with the buyer’s money; in that case the lienholder’s release must reach the BMV before a clean title can issue. An active lien blocks the transfer until released.
The most common mistake is checking the no-lien box when a loan is still open, and the consequence is a title transfer that the BMV will reject once the lien shows up in its records. A misconception is that a private sale automatically wipes out a lien; the lender’s claim survives the sale until it is formally released.
14. Seller(s) Signature, Address, and Date
This block asks every seller to sign, then provide the seller’s address and the sale date. Sign in ink, print the full street address, and write the date in month-day-year form. For example, JAMES R. CARROLL signs, writes 14 PINE STREET, BANGOR, ME 04401, and dates it 06/06/2026.
Every owner named on the title must sign here, so if two people own the car, both sign. The form is clear that the seller completes and signs all sections before the buyer signs. An edge case is a co-owned vehicle where one owner cannot be present; the BMV may need that owner’s signed authorization, so plan ahead.
The most common mistake is one co-owner signing for both, and the consequence is an incomplete transfer that the BMV will not accept. A misconception is that a typed name counts as a signature; Maine expects an actual ink signature from each seller.
15. Buyer(s) Signature, Address, and Date
This final block asks the buyer to sign, after a clear warning not to sign until every section above is complete. Signing confirms the buyer saw the seller’s odometer disclosure. For example, MARIA L. SANTOS signs, writes 22 ELM AVENUE, PORTLAND, ME 04101, and dates it 06/06/2026.
The buyer’s address here determines which Maine town collects the excise tax, so it must be the buyer’s real residence. The form warns in bold: “Do not sign below until all sections above have been completed and signed.” An edge case is two buyers who will co-own the car; both sign so the title can list both names.
The most common mistake is the buyer signing before the seller fills in the odometer and price, and the consequence is a form that does not prove the buyer acknowledged the mileage disclosure. A misconception is that the buyer’s signature is optional since the seller is the one transferring the car; the buyer’s signature is what closes the odometer acknowledgment loop the law requires.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common Maine sales, each followed from top to bottom of the form. Use them as models for your own entries.
Scenario 1: Routine Private Cash Sale
James Carroll sells his paid-off 2016 Toyota Camry to Maria Santos for cash. The car runs fine and the odometer is accurate.
| Form Section | What James and Maria Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller (please print) | JAMES R. CARROLL |
| Buyer (please print) | MARIA L. SANTOS |
| Purchase Price | $8,500.00 |
| Year / Make / Model | 2016 / TOYOTA / CAMRY |
| Vehicle Identification Number | 4T1BF1FK0GU123456 |
| Body Type / Color | SEDAN / SILVER |
| Odometer Reading (No Tenths) | 87,432 |
| Odometer Boxes | Both left unchecked (reading is accurate) |
| Lien Holder | “No active lienholder” box checked |
| Seller Signature / Date | James signs, 06/06/2026 |
| Buyer Signature / Date | Maria signs after reviewing, 06/06/2026 |
Maria takes this form to her Portland town office, pays excise tax there, then pays 5.5% sales tax (about $467.50 on $8,500) and the $33 title fee at the BMV.
Scenario 2: Sale of a Vehicle With an Active Loan Payoff
Aisha Khan sells her 2020 Honda CR-V to Marcus Bell for $19,000, but she still owes $6,000 on the loan. Marcus’s payment helps pay off the lender.
| Form Section | What Aisha and Marcus Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller (please print) | AISHA M. KHAN |
| Buyer (please print) | MARCUS T. BELL |
| Purchase Price | $19,000.00 |
| Year / Make / Model | 2020 / HONDA / CR-V |
| Vehicle Identification Number | 7FARW2H59LE012345 |
| Body Type / Color | SUV / BLUE |
| Odometer Reading (No Tenths) | 41,210 |
| Odometer Boxes | Both left unchecked |
| Lien Holder | No-lien box left UNCHECKED; lender payoff in progress |
| Seller Signature / Date | Aisha signs, 06/06/2026 |
| Buyer Signature / Date | Marcus signs, 06/06/2026 |
Because the no-lien box stays empty, Aisha must get the lender’s lien release to the BMV before Marcus can receive a clean title; he registers once the release clears.
Scenario 3: $1 Family Gift With an Odometer Rollover
Robert Day gives his old 1994 Ford F-150 to his grandson, Tyler Day, for $1. The truck’s 5-digit odometer has rolled over and shows far fewer miles than it has traveled.
| Form Section | What Robert and Tyler Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller (please print) | ROBERT A. DAY |
| Buyer (please print) | TYLER J. DAY |
| Purchase Price | $1.00 |
| Year / Make / Model | 1994 / FORD / F-150 |
| Vehicle Identification Number | 1FTEF14N5RNA01234 |
| Body Type / Color | PICKUP / GREEN |
| Odometer Reading (No Tenths) | 032,450 |
| Odometer Boxes | Box 1 (exceeds mechanical limits) CHECKED |
| Lien Holder | “No active lienholder” box checked |
| Seller Signature / Date | Robert signs, 06/06/2026 |
| Buyer Signature / Date | Tyler signs, 06/06/2026 |
Tyler writes a $1 price, but Maine may still assess sales tax on the truck’s fair market value; because the F-150 is older than 25 years, a title may not be required, and Robert checks the rollover box to disclose the true high mileage.
How to File the Completed Form
After both parties sign, the buyer files the paperwork. Maine routes most vehicle transfers through two stops: the local town office for excise tax, then the BMV (or a town that issues registrations) for sales tax, title, and plates. None of these forms can be filed online, so plan for in-person visits.
Step one: the town office. Bring the signed bill of sale, the signed title, and proof of insurance to your municipal office. You pay excise (municipal) tax there based on the vehicle’s value and age. Keep the white and yellow copies of your registration application and excise receipt, because the BMV needs them. Find your office details through the Register a Passenger Vehicle page.
Step two: sales tax, title, and registration. If you bought from a private seller or out-of-state dealer, you pay Maine’s 5.5% sales tax on the price written in the bill of sale, plus a $33 title application fee for vehicles 25 years old and newer. Some town offices issue registrations on the spot; if yours does not, take your excise receipt to a BMV branch office. You can reach the BMV Registration Section at (207) 624-9000 ext. 52149 or registrations@maine.gov.
By mail. Some BMV forms can be completed, printed, and mailed to the address printed on the document, though new-vehicle registration with sales tax usually needs an in-person stop. Mail-in filers should send copies, never originals of the title, and keep proof of mailing.
Proof of filing. Whatever channel you use, keep a copy of the signed bill of sale, your excise tax receipt, your sales tax receipt, and your registration. These are your evidence that ownership and tax both cleared, and you will want them if any question about the sale comes up later.
What Happens After You File
Once you pay the excise tax, the sales tax, and the title fee, the BMV issues your registration and license plates, and you can drive the vehicle legally. For vehicles 25 years old and newer, the BMV also processes a new title in the buyer’s name, which usually arrives by mail weeks after the counter visit. The title is the lasting proof of ownership, while the registration is what you renew each year.
If there was a lien, the new title shows the lienholder until the loan is paid and the lender files a release. The buyer holds the registration in the meantime and drives normally, but cannot sell the car free and clear until the lien clears. This is why the lien section of the bill of sale matters so much at the start.
The seller’s part is not quite done either. The seller should keep a signed copy of the bill of sale as proof they no longer own the car, which protects them from parking tickets, tolls, or liability tied to the vehicle after the sale. In Maine, plates stay with the seller, not the car, so the seller removes the plates and either transfers them to another vehicle or returns them.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Leaving the price blank or writing it in words only. The BMV cannot calculate the 5.5% sales tax, so the form gets rejected.
- Underreporting the sale price to save tax. Maine can tax the vehicle’s fair market value and penalize a false figure.
- Copying the VIN with a wrong character. The form then points to a different vehicle and the registration can be voided.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name. A name mismatch with the title makes the clerk doubt the seller’s authority to sell.
- Skipping the odometer reading. A blank mileage line is an incomplete federal disclosure that stops the title transfer.
- Estimating or rounding the mileage. A false odometer statement carries legal liability under Maine law.
- Checking the no-lien box while a loan is still open. The BMV rejects the transfer once the active lien appears in its records.
- The buyer signing before the seller completes the form. The buyer’s signature no longer proves they saw the odometer disclosure.
- Only one co-owner signing. Every owner on the title must sign, or the transfer is incomplete.
- Confusing make and model. Putting the model in the make box creates a record a clerk must untangle.
- Using a downloaded “template” with notary lines. It adds steps Maine does not require and confuses the buyer about the real rules.
- Forgetting to keep copies. Without your own signed copy and tax receipts, you have no proof the deal and tax cleared.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Do download the current form from the BMV site, because the official PDF avoids extra fields that third-party versions add.
- Do print names in capital letters that match the title, so the chain of ownership reads cleanly.
- Do read the odometer the day you sign, because the disclosure must reflect true mileage at transfer.
- Do write the real, full purchase price, since the buyer’s sales tax depends on it.
- Do have both parties keep a signed copy, so each side has proof of the deal.
- Do bring proof of insurance and ID to registration, because the BMV requires them before issuing plates.
Don’t:
- Don’t let the buyer sign before the seller fills in every box, because the buyer’s signature must follow the odometer disclosure.
- Don’t guess at the VIN, since one wrong character points the form at a different car.
- Don’t lowball the price on paper, because the state can tax book value and penalize the deception.
- Don’t check the no-lien box if a loan is open, as the BMV will catch the active lien.
- Don’t use whiteout or scribble over errors, because altered forms invite rejection; reprint instead.
- Don’t forget the plates stay with the seller, so the seller must remove them after the sale.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most Maine private-party sales are simple enough to handle yourself, but a lien, an out-of-state title, or a co-ownership tangle can be worth getting help with. Here is how the two paths compare.
Pros of filing on your own:
- It is cheaper, because you avoid any service fee and pay only the state’s taxes and the $33 title fee.
- It is faster for simple sales, since a clean cash sale needs only a town office and BMV visit.
- You control the accuracy, because you enter the VIN, price, and mileage yourself.
- You learn the process, which helps the next time you buy or sell a vehicle.
- You keep your own records, so you know exactly what was filed and when.
Cons of filing on your own (vs. with help):
- You carry the risk of errors, because a wrong VIN or missed odometer box is on you to fix.
- Liens get complicated fast, and a payoff handled wrong can delay a clean title for weeks.
- Out-of-state titles add steps, including use-tax exemption forms that a pro handles routinely.
- You spend the time, standing in line at two offices on your own schedule.
- You may miss tax nuances, like fair-market-value assessment on a gift, that an expert would flag.
The table below sums up when each path fits.
| Filing Path | Best For |
|---|---|
| On your own | Simple cash sales with a clear title and no lien |
| With dealer or service help | Loan payoffs, out-of-state titles, or co-owned vehicles |
FAQs
Do I have to use the official Maine BMV bill of sale form?
No. Maine accepts any signed bill of sale with the required details, but the official BMV form is safest because it already includes the odometer and lien sections clerks expect.
Does the Maine bill of sale need to be notarized?
No. The standard Maine BMV bill of sale does not require notarization; some third-party templates add a notary line, but the official form relies on the buyer’s and seller’s signatures.
Do I write the price as $1 for a family gift?
Yes. You can write $1.00 for a true gift, but Maine may still assess 5.5% sales tax on the vehicle’s fair market value rather than the dollar you paid.
Do I include cents in the purchase price box?
Yes. Write the full amount with cents, like $8,500.00, so the number is precise for the 5.5% sales tax calculation done at registration.
Do I write the odometer reading with tenths?
No. The form says “No Tenths,” so drop the decimal; an odometer showing 87,432.6 is written as 87,432.
Do I check an odometer box on a normal, accurate reading?
No. Leave both odometer boxes unchecked when the mileage is true and the odometer works; only check a box for a rollover or a known discrepancy.
Do both owners need to sign if the title lists two names?
Yes. Every owner named on the title must sign the seller section, or the BMV will treat the transfer as incomplete.
Do I check the no-lien box if I am still paying off a loan?
No. Leave the no-lien box unchecked while a loan is active; the lender’s release must reach the BMV before a clean title can transfer.
Do I need a title for a vehicle older than 25 years?
No. Maine generally requires a title only for vehicles 25 years old and newer; older vehicles can transfer on the bill of sale and registration.
Do I pay sales tax at the town office or the BMV?
No. You pay excise tax at the town office, but the 5.5% sales tax and $33 title fee are paid at the BMV or a town office that issues registrations.
Do I need proof of insurance to register the car?
Yes. Maine requires proof of insurance at registration, so the buyer should have an active policy before visiting the town office or BMV.
Do the license plates transfer to the buyer with the car?
No. In Maine, plates stay with the seller, who removes them after the sale and either transfers them to another vehicle or returns them.
Do I file this form online?
No. Maine BMV forms cannot be submitted online; you complete and print the bill of sale, then file in person or by mail at the office listed.
Do I write the model year or the sale year in the Year box?
Yes. Write the model year, the four-digit year from the title, not the year of the sale, because the model year also decides the title requirement.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Nebraska DMV Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Maine BMV Application for Certificate of Title (MVT-2) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Maine BMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Maine BMV Odometer Disclosure Statement – Form MVT-32 (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Maine BMV Vehicle Registration Application + FAQs
- How to Fill Out New Hampshire DMV Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs