How to Fill Out the New Hampshire DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form TDMV 12) + FAQs

The New Hampshire Odometer Disclosure Statement, Form TDMV 12 (rev. 03/23), is the state form a vehicle seller uses to record and certify a car’s mileage when the title or title application does not already show that reading, or when a mileage discrepancy turns up. The New Hampshire Department of Safety, Division of Motor Vehicles (DMV) receives it, and both state and federal law require it before ownership can pass cleanly to a buyer.

Getting the mileage wrong is not a small slip. Under N.H. Admin. Code Saf-C 1903.05, the form is mandatory the moment a title transfer lacks a current reading, and a false entry can expose you to the penalties in RSA 262:17. The federal government estimates odometer fraud robs car buyers of more than $1 billion every year, which is why the form forces a signed, dated mileage promise from both sides of the sale.

Here is what you will learn in this guide:

🚗 What Form TDMV 12 is, who must sign it, and when New Hampshire law forces you to use it.
📝 A line-by-line walkthrough of every box, with exact entries you can copy.
👥 Three real-world filled-out examples so you can match your own sale to a pattern.
📬 How to file the form with your town clerk or the DMV, including fees and proof to keep.
⚠️ The mistakes that void a sale, trigger a title hold, or land a seller in criminal court.

What Form TDMV 12 Is and Who Must File It

Form TDMV 12 is New Hampshire’s standalone Odometer Disclosure Statement. It captures the mileage a vehicle shows at the moment of sale, names the vehicle, and forces the seller to certify that number is true. The form exists to satisfy the federal Truth in Mileage Act (49 U.S.C. § 32705) and New Hampshire’s own anti-fraud law, RSA 262:17.

You must complete this form when you sell or transfer a vehicle and the title or title application does not already carry the current odometer reading, or when a discrepancy shows up during the transfer. That rule comes straight from Saf-C 1903.05. In plain English, if the title’s printed odometer block is full, used up, smudged, or already signed for a prior sale, you reach for TDMV 12 instead.

The seller is the main filer, but the buyer must also sign to acknowledge the reading. Private individuals selling a personal car use it most, yet licensed New Hampshire dealers, estate executors, and people gifting a vehicle to family all rely on it too. Maria Lopez, selling her 2019 Honda to a neighbor when the title’s odometer line is already inked from a clerical error, is the typical filer.

Not every vehicle needs the form. The disclosure rules do not apply to a vehicle over 16,000 pounds gross vehicle weight rating, a vehicle that is not self-propelled, a vehicle that is 10 model years old or older, or a brand-new vehicle before its first non-resale transfer. Note one update: the 2021 NHTSA rule extended the disclosure window for newer vehicles (model year 2011 and later) to 20 years, so many cars once exempt at 10 years now still need disclosure. When in doubt, complete the form anyway, because an unneeded disclosure causes no harm while a missing one can stall your title.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

Gather everything before you touch the form. A half-filled disclosure with a guessed VIN is worse than no form at all, because the DMV cross-checks each entry against the title record. Below is your pre-filing checklist.

The vehicle’s current odometer reading in whole miles. You need the exact number with no tenths; an estimate or a rounded figure can read as a false certification under RSA 262:17.
The certificate of title or the title application. You need it to confirm why TDMV 12 is required and to copy the VIN and vehicle details exactly. Without it, you cannot verify the data the DMV will match.
The 17-character Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). It must match the title to the digit; one wrong character creates a mismatch that holds the transfer.
The vehicle’s year, make, model, and body style. These confirm the form describes the right car; missing details let a clerk reject the form as incomplete.
The last plate state and plate number. New Hampshire’s form asks for these to tie the vehicle to its registration history.
The seller’s full legal name and current address. A name that does not match the title’s owner line signals a possible fraudulent transfer and stops processing.
The buyer’s full legal name and address. The buyer must sign, so you need their details ready; a blank buyer block makes the disclosure invalid.
A notary, if no title exists. RSA 262:17, III(b) requires a notarized seller statement when the vehicle has no certificate of title, so line up a notary in advance.
The date of the sale. The certification date must reflect the true transfer date; a future or backdated entry can void the disclosure.

Collect each item in one sitting. If even one piece is missing, the safest move is to pause the sale rather than file a form you may have to redo and re-sign with the buyer present.

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

New Hampshire publishes Form TDMV 12 through the Department of Safety, Division of Motor Vehicles. You can download the official PDF, pick up a paper copy at any DMV substation, or get one from your town or city clerk’s office, which handles most registration and title work in New Hampshire’s municipal system.

Always confirm you have the rev. 03/23 version named in Saf-C 1903.05. The revision date sits near the form’s footer. Using an outdated edition risks rejection because older forms may omit the current certification boxes the DMV now requires.

You may complete the form by hand in blue or black ink, or type it using a fillable PDF tool before printing. New Hampshire does not yet offer a fully electronic odometer disclosure for most private sales, so a wet-ink signature from both seller and buyer remains the standard. Print two copies: one travels with the title to the clerk, and one stays with each party for their records.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form TDMV 12 Line by Line

Work through the form from top to bottom in the order the boxes appear. Print clearly, use whole miles, and never leave a required box blank. Each field below tells you what it asks, how to answer, a sample entry, an edge case, the common mistake, and the myth to drop.

1. Seller’s Printed Name (Opening Certification Line)

The form opens with a sentence: “I, [SELLER’S NAME], state that the odometer now reads ___ miles…” This field asks for the legal name of the person transferring the vehicle. Print your full legal name as it appears on the certificate of title.

Write it in capital letters for readability, first and last name at minimum. Maria Lopez writes MARIA LOPEZ on the line. If the title lists two co-owners, both names belong here, and both must sign later in the seller block.

A common edge case is a name change after marriage or divorce. If your title still shows your maiden name, enter the name on the title and bring proof of the change, because the DMV matches this entry to the title’s owner field. The common mistake is signing with a nickname or initials, which creates a name mismatch and triggers a title hold. The myth to drop is that “everyone knows who I am,” because the DMV processes the paper, not the person, and an inexact name stalls the file.

2. Odometer Reading (Miles, No Tenths)

This box asks for the exact mileage the dashboard shows right now. Enter the number in whole miles only, with no tenths, exactly as instructed on the form.

Read the odometer, then copy the figure. If the dash reads 87,432.6, you write 87432, dropping the tenths entirely. James Carter records 112045 for his pickup.

The edge case is a digital odometer that briefly displays trip miles instead of total miles; toggle to the main odometer before recording. The most common mistake on this field is writing the tenths or rounding up, which can read as a misstatement and, under RSA 262:17, a false certification is a misdemeanor for a first offense. The misconception is that close enough is fine; the law asks for the actual reading to your best knowledge, so copy the digits you see.

3. Certification Boxes (Actual / Excess of Mechanical Limits / Not Actual)

The form treats the mileage as actual unless you check one of two boxes. Box (1) certifies the reading is “in excess of its mechanical limits.” Box (2) certifies the reading “is not the actual mileage,” which prints a WARNING – ODOMETER DISCREPANCY.

Leave both boxes blank only when the mileage is true and the odometer has never rolled over or been replaced. Check Box (1) when an older five-digit odometer has passed 99,999 and started over, so 48,000 on the dash really means 148,000. Check Box (2) when the odometer is broken, was replaced, or you simply cannot vouch for the number.

The edge case trips up sellers of older cars: a five-digit odometer that rolled past 99,999 needs Box (1), not Box (2), because the mileage is real but beyond the gauge’s limit. The frequent mistake is checking the wrong box or checking none when one applies, which misrepresents the vehicle and can void the sale. The myth is that checking a box looks bad and lowers value; in truth, an honest discrepancy box protects you from a fraud claim, while a false “actual” certification exposes you to penalties under Saf-C 1903.05.

4. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This field asks for the car’s unique 17-character VIN. Copy all 17 characters from the certificate of title, not from the dashboard plate alone, to be sure they match the record.

Print each character in its own space, using capital letters and digits. James Carter enters 1FTFW1ET5DFC10312 for his Ford. Double-check the easily confused characters, since a VIN uses the digit 0 but never the letter O, I, or Q.

The edge case is a worn or repainted door-jamb VIN plate; when the dash and door disagree, trust the title and have the discrepancy inspected. The common mistake is transposing two characters, which produces a VIN mismatch and a hard stop on the transfer. The misconception is that the last few digits do not matter; every character identifies the vehicle, and one wrong digit can point to a different car entirely.

5. Year, Make, Model, and Body Style

These boxes describe the vehicle in plain terms. Enter the model year, manufacturer, model name, and body style exactly as shown on the title.

Write each in its labeled box. Maria Lopez enters 2019 for year, HONDA for make, CIVIC for model, and SEDAN for body style. Match the title’s wording rather than how you describe the car day to day.

The edge case is a trim or body style the title labels differently than the manufacturer’s brochure; always defer to the title. The common mistake is leaving body style blank because it feels minor, which lets a clerk reject the form as incomplete. The myth is that the VIN alone is enough; New Hampshire wants the descriptive fields filled so the paper stands on its own if the VIN is ever questioned.

6. Last Plate State and Last Plate Number

This pair asks where the vehicle was last plated and under what plate number. Enter the two-letter state and the most recent license plate number.

Use the plate currently or most recently on the vehicle. James Carter writes NH and 4567890. If the plates were already surrendered, use the number from the last registration certificate.

The edge case is an out-of-state vehicle entering New Hampshire; list the prior state and that state’s plate number. The common mistake is leaving these blank on a private sale, which slows the clerk’s matching of the vehicle to its registration history. The misconception is that plate data is optional because plates do not transfer with the car; the DMV still uses it to trace the vehicle’s paper trail.

7. Date of Statement / Date of Certification

This field asks for the date the mileage is certified. Enter the actual date the seller signs and the sale takes place, in MM/DD/YYYY format.

Write the true transfer date. Maria Lopez enters 03/14/2026 the day she hands over the keys. The seller’s date and the buyer’s acknowledgment date should match the sale.

The edge case is a sale that closes over two days, such as payment one day and pickup the next; use the date the vehicle and signed form actually change hands. The common mistake is backdating or postdating to “make the paperwork work,” which can void the disclosure and, if done to deceive, invites a fraud charge under RSA 262:17. The myth is that the date is a formality; it anchors the legal moment ownership and mileage liability shift.

8. Seller’s Signature and Address

This block asks the seller to sign and give a current address. Sign in ink and print your address below the signature line.

Sign your normal legal signature, then print your street, city, state, and ZIP. Maria Lopez signs and writes 24 Elm Street, Concord, NH 03301. The signature here is your sworn certification of the mileage.

The edge case is co-owners joined by “and” on the title, who must both sign; owners joined by “or” may have only one signer. The common mistake is an unsigned seller block, which makes the entire disclosure legally worthless and stops the transfer cold. The misconception is that printing your name counts as signing; the law requires an actual signature to make the certification binding.

9. Buyer’s Signature, Printed Name, and Address (Acknowledgment Line)

The form’s final block, marked “ACKNOWLEDGING MILEAGE READING AS CERTIFIED,” asks the buyer to confirm they received the disclosure. The buyer signs, prints their name, and lists their address.

The buyer signs in ink beneath the acknowledgment language. Daniel Reed, buying Maria’s Civic, signs and prints Daniel Reed, 9 Pine Road, Bow, NH 03304. This is not the seller’s job; the buyer must personally sign.

The edge case is a remote or mailed sale where the buyer is not present; the form should not be finalized until the buyer can sign, or the disclosure is incomplete. The common mistake is the buyer forgetting to sign because attention is on payment, which leaves the disclosure unfinished and the title transfer blocked. The misconception is that only the seller’s signature matters; federal and New Hampshire rules require the buyer’s acknowledgment to close the disclosure loop.

10. Notarization (When No Title Exists)

Although not a printed box on every copy of TDMV 12, New Hampshire law adds a step for untitled vehicles. Under RSA 262:17, III(b), certification must be notarized when no certificate of title is required for the vehicle.

When a title exists, you certify mileage on the title or application and TDMV 12, with no notary needed. When the vehicle is exempt from titling, the seller must sign the statement before a notary public. Frank Doyle, selling a 1985 truck with no title, signs TDMV 12 in front of a notary who stamps and dates it.

The edge case is older or specialty vehicles that fall outside New Hampshire’s title rules; check with your town clerk before assuming a notary is or is not required. The common mistake is skipping notarization on an untitled vehicle, which makes the certification non-compliant with RSA 262:17. The misconception is that notarization is always required; for the vast majority of titled cars it is not.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

The three cases below show how different sellers complete the same form. Match your own sale to the closest pattern.

Scenario 1 — Maria Lopez, clean private sale of a 2019 Honda Civic with true mileage.

Form Section	What Maria Enters
Seller’s printed name	MARIA LOPEZ
Odometer reading (no tenths)	54210
Certification box	Both left blank (mileage is actual)
VIN	2HGFC2F69KH500123
Year / Make / Model / Body	2019 / HONDA / CIVIC / SEDAN
Last plate state / number	NH / 4456781
Date of statement	03/14/2026
Seller signature / address	Signed, 24 Elm Street, Concord, NH 03301
Buyer signature / name	Signed, Daniel Reed, 9 Pine Road, Bow, NH 03304

Scenario 2 — James Carter, older truck whose five-digit odometer rolled over.

Form Section	What James Enters
Seller’s printed name	JAMES CARTER
Odometer reading (no tenths)	38050
Certification box	Box (1) checked — exceeds mechanical limits
VIN	1FTFW1ET5DFC10312
Year / Make / Model / Body	1998 / FORD / F-150 / PICKUP
Last plate state / number	NH / 4567890
Date of statement	04/02/2026
Seller signature / address	Signed, 11 River Road, Laconia, NH 03246
Buyer signature / name	Signed, Susan Hale, 5 Oak Lane, Tilton, NH 03276

Scenario 3 — Frank Doyle, broken odometer with an unknown true reading.

Form Section	What Frank Enters
Seller’s printed name	FRANK DOYLE
Odometer reading (no tenths)	00000 (gauge inoperative)
Certification box	Box (2) checked — not actual mileage
VIN	1G1ZT53806F100456
Year / Make / Model / Body	2006 / CHEVROLET / MALIBU / SEDAN
Last plate state / number	NH / 3321009
Date of statement	05/20/2026
Seller signature / address	Signed before notary, 7 Maple Court, Keene, NH 03431
Buyer signature / name	Signed, Olivia Grant, 18 Birch Street, Keene, NH 03431

How to File the Completed Form TDMV 12

In New Hampshire, vehicle title and registration work runs through your town or city clerk first, then the state DMV. The completed TDMV 12 travels with the title and the buyer’s title application. Below are the channels available.

In person at your town or city clerk. Bring the signed title, the completed TDMV 12, and the title application. There is no separate fee for the disclosure form itself, though title and registration fees apply; New Hampshire’s title fee is $25, paid by cash, check, or card depending on the office. Processing is usually same-day at the counter, and you keep a stamped copy as proof.
In person at a NH DMV office. The main office sits at 23 Hazen Drive, Concord, NH 03305. Submit the same packet, pay the title fee, and keep your receipt and a copy of the form.
By mail to the DMV. Mail the signed forms and a check to the Title Bureau at 23 Hazen Drive, Concord, NH 03305. Processing runs several weeks, so keep a photocopy of everything and use trackable mail as your proof of filing.
Through a licensed dealer. If you buy from a dealer, the dealer files the disclosure and title paperwork for you and gives you a copy; keep it with your records.

Whichever channel you use, give the buyer a signed copy at the moment of sale and keep one yourself. Federal rules expect both parties to retain the disclosure, and your copy is your defense if a mileage dispute ever arises.

What Happens After You File

Once the clerk or DMV processes the packet, the odometer reading from TDMV 12 is recorded against the vehicle’s title history. The buyer receives a new title in their name showing the certified mileage, which becomes the baseline for the next sale.

If the form is incomplete or a value mismatches the title, the DMV places a hold and contacts the filer to correct it. A blank signature, a wrong VIN, or a missing certification box are the usual triggers, and fixing them often means getting the buyer and seller back together to re-sign.

Keep your copy for at least five years, the federal retention period for odometer records. If a buyer later claims the mileage was false, your signed and dated TDMV 12 with the buyer’s acknowledgment is the record that protects you. A clean disclosure closes the sale; a sloppy one can reopen it months later.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form

Each error below carries a direct consequence. Read them before you sign.

Writing tenths of a mile. The form demands whole miles, and an odd entry can read as a misstatement of the true reading.
Checking the wrong certification box. Marking “not actual” on a rolled-over odometer instead of “exceeds mechanical limits” mislabels the car and can scare off or mislead the buyer.
Leaving both boxes blank when one applies. Certifying actual mileage on a broken odometer is a false certification under RSA 262:17.
Transposing VIN characters. A single wrong character creates a mismatch that freezes the title transfer.
Skipping the body style or model. An incomplete vehicle description gives the clerk grounds to reject the form.
Buyer forgets to sign. Without the buyer’s acknowledgment, the disclosure is unfinished and the title cannot transfer.
Seller signs with a nickname. A name that does not match the title triggers a hold and a request for re-signing.
Backdating the certification date. A false date can void the disclosure and, if deceptive, invite a fraud charge.
Using an outdated form edition. A pre-rev. 03/23 form may lack required boxes and get rejected.
Skipping notarization on an untitled vehicle. RSA 262:17 requires a notarized statement when no title exists, and skipping it makes the filing non-compliant.
Failing to keep a copy. Without your retained copy, you have no proof if a mileage dispute surfaces later.
Estimating mileage from memory. A guessed number rather than the actual dashboard reading undercuts the certification.

Do’s and Don’ts

Do:

Do read the odometer at the moment of sale so the certified number matches reality.
Do print clearly in ink because a smudged or pencil entry can be altered and rejected.
Do match every entry to the title since the DMV cross-checks names, VIN, and vehicle details.
Do have the buyer sign in person to complete the legally required acknowledgment.
Do check a discrepancy box honestly because honest disclosure shields you from fraud claims.
Do keep a signed copy for five years to satisfy federal record rules and protect yourself.

Don’t:

Don’t round or add tenths because the form requires the exact whole-mile reading.
Don’t sign a blank or partly blank form since an incomplete certification can be filled in falsely later.
Don’t backdate or postdate the certification, as it can void the disclosure.
Don’t guess the VIN from the dashboard when the title is the authoritative source.
Don’t skip the form because the title looks full — that is exactly when TDMV 12 is required.
Don’t assume your old car is exempt without checking the 20-year rule for 2011-and-newer models.

Filing on Your Own vs. With Help

Most private sellers complete TDMV 12 alone, but some use a dealer or attorney. The trade-offs below help you choose.

Pros of filing on your own:

It costs nothing extra beyond standard title and registration fees.
It is fast for a simple, clean-title sale you can finish at the clerk’s counter.
You control accuracy by copying every entry directly from your own title.
It is simple for a one-vehicle private sale with true mileage.
You keep your records firsthand without relying on a third party.

Cons of filing on your own:

You bear the risk of a rejected form and a return trip if an entry is wrong.
Discrepancy cases are tricky and easy to mislabel without guidance.
Untitled vehicles add a notary step you must arrange yourself.
Co-owner and name-change issues can stall a transfer you handle alone.
A mistake can carry legal weight under RSA 262:17 if it looks like a false certification.

FAQs

Is Form TDMV 12 required for every New Hampshire vehicle sale?

No. It is required only when the title or title application lacks the current odometer reading, when a discrepancy appears, or when the vehicle is not exempt from disclosure.

Is a 12-year-old car exempt from the odometer disclosure?

No. Under the 2021 NHTSA rule, vehicles model year 2011 and newer need disclosure for 20 years, so many cars once exempt at 10 years still require it.

Do I write tenths of a mile in the odometer box?

No. The form says “NO TENTHS,” so a 87,432.6 reading is entered as 87432 in whole miles only.

Do I check a box if my mileage is true and the odometer works?

No. Leave both certification boxes blank when the reading is the actual mileage; checking a box only applies to a discrepancy.

Do I check “not actual mileage” when my five-digit odometer rolled over?

No. A rolled-over odometer needs Box (1), “exceeds mechanical limits,” because the mileage is real but beyond the gauge’s display.

Does the buyer have to sign Form TDMV 12?

Yes. The buyer must sign the acknowledgment line, or the disclosure is incomplete and the title transfer cannot be processed.

Do I copy the VIN from the dashboard?

No. Copy all 17 characters from the certificate of title, since the DMV matches your entry to the title record, not the dash plate.

Is notarization always required on this form?

No. Notarization is required only when the vehicle has no certificate of title, per RSA 262:17, III(b); titled vehicles need no notary.

Does the seller’s name have to match the title exactly?

Yes. The printed name must match the title’s owner field, because a nickname or initials creates a mismatch that holds the transfer.

Is there a fee just to file the odometer disclosure?

No. There is no separate fee for TDMV 12 itself, though New Hampshire’s $25 title fee and registration costs still apply.

Can I file Form TDMV 12 online in New Hampshire?

No. Most private sales require wet-ink signatures from both parties, so the form is filed in person with the town clerk or DMV, or by mail.

Is backdating the certification date allowed if the sale was delayed?

No. Enter the true date the form is signed and the vehicle changes hands; a false date can void the disclosure and invite a fraud charge.

Does writing the wrong body style really matter?

Yes. A blank or wrong vehicle description gives the clerk grounds to reject the form as incomplete and delay your transfer.

Is odometer fraud a serious offense in New Hampshire?

Yes. Under RSA 262:17, a first offense is a misdemeanor and a subsequent offense can be a class B felony, on top of federal civil penalties.

Related reading