The New Mexico Odometer Disclosure Statement, Form MVD-10187 (Rev. 07/12), is the document the seller of a vehicle uses to certify the exact mileage on the odometer at the moment ownership changes hands. The New Mexico Taxation & Revenue Department, Motor Vehicle Division (MVD) requires it for most title transfers, and both federal and state law stand behind it. You file it as part of the title transfer packet so the buyer can register the car in their name.
This one small form carries large weight. A wrong number, a missing signature, or the wrong checkbox can stall a title transfer, void a sale, or trigger federal penalties of up to $10,000 and three years in prison under the Truth in Mileage Act. Odometer fraud is not rare either — the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration estimates more than 450,000 vehicles are sold each year in the U.S. with false odometer readings, costing buyers over $1 billion. This guide walks you through the form line by line so your sale is clean, legal, and stress-free.
- 🚗 How to read and write your odometer number the right way, with no tenths and no guessing.
- ✅ Which of the three certification boxes (AM, EL, or NM) to check and what each one really means.
- 📝 A field-by-field walkthrough using real names and real numbers you can copy.
- ⚠️ The exact mistakes that get title transfers rejected and how to dodge every one.
- ❓ Clear answers to the 14 questions sellers and buyers ask most about this form.
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Odometer Disclosure Statement is a written, signed record of a vehicle’s mileage at the time of sale or transfer. The seller (called the transferor on the form) fills it out and signs it, and the buyer (the transferee) signs to confirm they received it. In New Mexico, the Motor Vehicle Division receives this form along with the certificate of title when the buyer applies for a new title. The form exists so a buyer knows the true mileage before money changes hands.
The legal backbone is the federal Truth in Mileage Act, 49 U.S.C. § 32705, carried out through the NHTSA rules in 49 CFR Part 580. These laws say the seller of a vehicle must state the odometer mileage upon transfer of ownership. Failure to complete the statement, or giving false information, may result in fines and/or imprisonment, exactly as the form’s header warns.
Most private sellers must file it. So must dealers, people gifting a car, and those handling an inherited vehicle, as long as the vehicle is not exempt. Some transfers do not need a disclosure: vehicles 25 model years old or older (model year 2001 and older as of 2026), vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating over 16,000 pounds, and brand-new vehicles before their first retail sale. A federal rule change that took effect on January 1, 2021 extended the disclosure window — covered vehicles model year 2011 and newer now need a disclosure for 20 years, through the year 2031, per NHTSA.
Think of the form as the bridge between the title and the buyer’s trust. The title proves who owns the car; the disclosure proves how far it has traveled. Skip it on an eligible vehicle, and the MVD can refuse to transfer the title at all.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything before you pick up a pen. Filling out Form MVD-10187 takes only minutes once your facts are in front of you, but a single missing detail can force a second trip to the MVD. Below is the pre-filing checklist every New Mexico seller should complete first.
- The vehicle’s certificate of title. You need it to confirm the VIN, year, make, and model, and many transfers can disclose mileage right on the title itself. Without it, the MVD cannot transfer ownership.
- The current odometer reading. Walk to the car and read the number now, not from memory. A guessed number that does not match the dash can be treated as a false statement.
- The full Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). All 17 characters must match the title exactly. One wrong digit can link your form to the wrong vehicle and void the disclosure.
- The vehicle year, make, model, and body type. These appear on the title and registration and must match. A mismatch invites a clerk to reject the packet.
- The seller’s full legal name and address. Use the name as it reads on the title. A nickname or old address can break the chain of ownership.
- The buyer’s full legal name and address. You cannot finish the form without the buyer present or their exact details, since both parties sign.
- A working pen with blue or black ink. The form is signed by hand; pencil or erasable ink can void it and is never accepted.
- A bill of sale showing the purchase price. New Mexico charges a 4% motor vehicle excise tax on the price, so the buyer needs this at the MVD to calculate tax.
If any item is missing, stop and find it before signing. A blank VIN field means the MVD cannot match the form to your car. A missing buyer signature means the disclosure is incomplete and the title cannot transfer. Gathering these eight items first turns a possible rejection into a five-minute task.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can download Form MVD-10187 for free from the New Mexico MVD website. It also lives on the MVD’s Most Popular Forms page, where the agency keeps its current title and registration documents. Print it on plain white paper, single-sided, and check that the revision date near the top reads REV. 07/12 so you know you have the version the MVD accepts.
In many New Mexico sales you do not need the separate form at all, because the certificate of title has a built-in odometer disclosure section. When the title has space for mileage and both signatures, you complete it right there. Use the standalone MVD-10187 when the title has no odometer block, when the block is full or damaged, or when a clerk asks for a separate statement.
You can also fill the form out at any MVD field office, at an MVD Express location, or at another authorized partner office when you go in to transfer the title. Bring a printed copy as a backup even if you plan to use the title’s built-in section, since having it on hand prevents a wasted trip. Avoid third-party sites that charge a fee to “unlock” the form — the official MVD copy is free and is the only version the state guarantees it will accept.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form MVD-10187 Line by Line
The form is short, but every field matters. Print clearly in blue or black ink, use all capital letters, and never use white-out. Below, each field gets its own walkthrough so you know what it asks, how to answer, what a correct entry looks like, and what goes wrong if you slip.
Vehicle Information — Year
This field asks for the model year of the vehicle, not the year you bought it. Write the four-digit year exactly as it appears on the certificate of title, such as 2018. Maria Lopez, selling her sedan, writes 2018 in the Year box because that is the model year printed on her title.
The model year decides whether you even need this form, so accuracy here is the first safeguard. A common edge case is a “carryover” vehicle built late in one calendar year but titled as the next model year — always copy the title, not the build date on the door jamb. The most common mistake is writing the purchase year instead of the model year, which can wrongly suggest the car is exempt or non-exempt and confuse the clerk. Many sellers wrongly believe the year is just a formality; in truth it is the trigger for the entire disclosure rule.
Vehicle Information — Make
This field asks for the manufacturer of the vehicle, such as Toyota, Ford, or Honda. Write the make in capital letters exactly as it reads on the title, for example TOYOTA. James Begay, selling his pickup, writes FORD because that is the make shown on his New Mexico title.
The make ties the form to a specific vehicle and helps the MVD match it to the title and VIN. A nuance arises with badge changes or sub-brands, such as a GMC versus a Chevrolet built on the same platform — always use the make on the title, not the one you say in conversation. The common mistake is abbreviating or guessing the make, like writing “Chevy” instead of CHEVROLET, which can cause a mismatch flag. People often think the make alone identifies the car; the VIN is the true identifier, and the make simply supports it.
Vehicle Information — Model
This field asks for the specific model name, such as Camry, F-150, or Civic. Write it in capital letters as it appears on the title, for example CAMRY. Maria Lopez writes COROLLA in the Model box because that is what her title lists.
The model adds a second layer of identification so a clerk can confirm the form, title, and car all describe the same vehicle. A tricky case is a trim or package being mistaken for the model, such as writing “Limited” instead of 4RUNNER — list the model, not the trim. The common mistake is leaving this blank because the make seems like enough, which leaves the disclosure incomplete and open to rejection. A frequent misconception is that the model must match the dealer’s marketing name; the title’s wording always wins.
Vehicle Information — Body Type
This field asks for the general body style of the vehicle, such as sedan, coupe, pickup, SUV, or van. Write the body type as it appears on the title, for example 4DR or SEDAN. James Begay writes PICKUP for his truck because that matches his title’s body description.
Body type helps the MVD confirm the vehicle class, which can matter for the 16,000-pound weight exemption on heavy trucks. The edge case to watch is a converted or modified vehicle, such as a van turned into an RV — use the body type the title still lists unless the title was formally re-classed. The common mistake is inventing a body label that does not match the title, which can slow the match-up at the counter. Sellers sometimes think body type is optional; it is part of the vehicle’s legal description and should never be left blank.
Vehicle Information — Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the full 17-character VIN that uniquely identifies your vehicle. Copy all 17 characters exactly from the title, with no spaces and no dashes, for example 1HGBH41JXMN109186. Maria Lopez copies her VIN one character at a time, double-checking each letter and number against the title.
The VIN is the single most important field on the form because it is the only entry that ties the disclosure to one exact vehicle. The key nuance is that the letters I, O, and Q never appear in a real VIN — if you think you see one, it is the number 1 or 0, so look again. The most damaging mistake is transposing or dropping a single character, which links your sworn mileage statement to the wrong vehicle and voids the disclosure. Many people believe a partial or “close enough” VIN is fine; the MVD treats any VIN mismatch as grounds to reject the transfer.
Certification by Transferor/Seller — Odometer Reading (no tenths)
This is the heart of the form. It asks you to write the exact mileage shown on the odometer right now, with no tenths of a mile. Read the dashboard, then write the whole number only, such as 86,452 miles — drop any digit after the decimal point. Maria Lopez sees 86,452.7 on her dash and writes 86,452 because the form says “no tenths.”
This number is the legal record of how far the car has traveled, so it must be honest and current. The nuance for older cars is a 5-digit odometer that has rolled past 99,999 back to a low number — read on to the EL checkbox below for how to handle that. The common mistake is rounding up or estimating, which creates a false statement even if the gap is small; always copy the exact whole number. A widespread misconception is that you should include the tenths to be precise — the form forbids it, and adding tenths can get the entry questioned.
Certification — The Actual Mileage (AM)
This checkbox asks you to certify that the number you wrote is the vehicle’s true, accurate mileage. Check this box when the odometer works correctly and shows the real distance the car has traveled. Maria Lopez checks The Actual Mileage (AM) because her 2018 Corolla’s odometer works fine and 86,452 is the true figure.
This is the box the vast majority of honest sellers use, and checking it correctly protects you from fraud claims. The edge case: only use AM if you are confident the odometer has never been replaced or tampered with — if it was replaced, the mileage history may not be “actual.” The common mistake is checking AM out of habit on a car with a known odometer problem, which turns an honest sale into a false statement. Some sellers think AM means “the mileage I believe is right”; it means the odometer reading itself is genuinely accurate.
Certification — Mileage in Excess of Mechanical Limits (EL)
This checkbox asks you to certify that the odometer has rolled over past its maximum and started again from zero. Check this box on an older car with a 5-digit odometer that has passed 99,999 miles and now shows a low number. James Begay’s 1999 pickup reads 12,300 but has actually driven 112,300 miles, so he writes 12,300 and checks Mileage in Excess of Mechanical Limits (EL).
This box exists for genuine mechanical rollovers, not for broken or swapped odometers. The nuance is that EL is only correct when the rollover is natural — the gauge simply ran out of digits. The common and serious mistake is choosing “Not the Actual Mileage” for a true rollover, which falsely brands the car as having an unknown-mileage problem and can lower its value. A frequent misconception is that EL means the car has high mileage in general; it specifically means the displayed number is lower than the true total because the odometer maxed out.
Certification — Warning! Odometer Discrepancy / Not the Actual Mileage (NM)
This checkbox asks you to certify that the odometer reading does not reflect the true mileage and the real figure is unknown. Check this box when the odometer is broken, was replaced, was tampered with, or you simply cannot vouch for the number. Carlos Romero bought a car whose odometer had been swapped, so when he resells it he writes the displayed 45,000 and checks Not the Actual Mileage (NM).
Checking NM is honest and protects you, even though it warns the buyer and can lower the price. The nuance is that an NM disclosure usually causes the title to be branded “not actual mileage” permanently, which follows the car forever. The common mistake is hiding a known problem by checking AM instead of NM, which is exactly the fraud the law punishes with fines and prison. Many sellers wrongly think NM admits they did something wrong; it simply tells the truth that the number cannot be trusted, and that truth shields you from liability.
Seller’s Name (printed) and Address
This field asks for the seller’s full legal name and mailing address, printed clearly. Write your name as it appears on the title, then your street address, city, state, and ZIP code, such as MARIA LOPEZ, 1420 CENTRAL AVE SE, ALBUQUERQUE, NM 87106. Print, do not sign, in this box — the signature comes later.
Your printed name and address let the MVD match you to the title’s seller and keep a record of who certified the mileage. A common edge case is a seller with only a P.O. Box; use it if that is your official address, but add a physical address if the form or clerk asks. The common mistake is using a nickname or maiden name that differs from the title, which breaks the ownership chain and can stall the transfer. People often think a printed name is interchangeable with a signature; the form needs both, in their own spots.
Buyer’s Name (printed) and Address
This field asks for the buyer’s full legal name and mailing address, printed clearly. The buyer writes their legal name and full address, such as DAVID NGUYEN, 88 SUNSET RD NW, RIO RANCHO, NM 87124. The buyer prints here and signs lower down.
This entry records who received the disclosure and who will register the vehicle next. The nuance arises with co-buyers or a married couple — list every person who will appear on the new title so each is on record. The common mistake is leaving the buyer’s section blank because the seller filled out the rest, which makes the disclosure incomplete and unfilable. A misconception is that only the seller’s information matters; the law requires the buyer to acknowledge the mileage too, in writing.
Transferor’s/Seller’s Signature and Date
This field asks the seller to sign by hand and write the date of the transfer. Sign in ink exactly as your name reads, then enter the date in MM/DD/YYYY format, such as 06/06/2026. Maria Lopez signs her name and writes 06/06/2026 on the day she hands over the keys.
Your signature turns the form into a sworn legal statement, so it must be your own and never forged or pre-signed. The nuance: sign on the actual day of transfer, since a future or back-dated date can be treated as falsifying a federal record. The common mistake is forgetting to date the signature, which leaves the disclosure incomplete and can void the transfer. Some sellers think a typed or stamped signature counts; federal odometer rules require a genuine handwritten signature.
Transferee/Buyer’s Signature and Date
This field asks the buyer to sign by hand and date the form, confirming they received the mileage disclosure. The buyer signs in ink and writes the same transfer date, such as 06/06/2026. David Nguyen signs and dates the form the moment he accepts the car from Maria.
The buyer’s signature closes the loop and proves the disclosure was delivered, which is what protects both parties later. The nuance is that the buyer must sign in person at transfer — a buyer cannot legally sign before seeing the car and the mileage. The common mistake is the buyer skipping the signature, which leaves a one-sided form the MVD will not accept. A misconception is that the buyer’s signature is just a courtesy; without it, the federal disclosure is not valid and the title cannot transfer.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are the three most common ways New Mexicans complete this form. Each follows one person through the whole document so you can copy the pattern that fits your sale.
Scenario 1: Standard private sale with accurate mileage. Maria Lopez sells her working 2018 Toyota Corolla to David Nguyen.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Year | 2018 |
| Make | TOYOTA |
| Model | COROLLA |
| Body Type | SEDAN |
| VIN | 2T1BURHE5JC123456 |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 86,452 |
| Certification box checked | The Actual Mileage (AM) |
| Seller’s printed name | MARIA LOPEZ |
| Buyer’s printed name | DAVID NGUYEN |
| Seller’s signature and date | Maria Lopez — 06/06/2026 |
Scenario 2: Older car with a rolled-over odometer. James Begay sells his 1999 Ford F-150 whose 5-digit odometer has passed 100,000 miles.
| Form Section | What James Enters |
|---|---|
| Year | 1999 |
| Make | FORD |
| Model | F-150 |
| Body Type | PICKUP |
| VIN | 1FTRX17W9XKA98765 |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 12,300 |
| Certification box checked | Mileage in Excess of Mechanical Limits (EL) |
| Seller’s printed name | JAMES BEGAY |
| Buyer’s printed name | SUSAN CHAVEZ |
| Seller’s signature and date | James Begay — 06/06/2026 |
Scenario 3: Known odometer discrepancy. Carlos Romero sells a 2014 Honda Civic whose odometer was replaced and no longer reflects true mileage.
| Form Section | What Carlos Enters |
|---|---|
| Year | 2014 |
| Make | HONDA |
| Model | CIVIC |
| Body Type | 4DR |
| VIN | 19XFB2F59EE234567 |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 45,000 |
| Certification box checked | Not the Actual Mileage (NM) |
| Seller’s printed name | CARLOS ROMERO |
| Buyer’s printed name | ANGELA TORRES |
| Seller’s signature and date | Carlos Romero — 06/06/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
In New Mexico, you do not mail the odometer statement on its own — it travels with the title transfer packet. Below is each channel the MVD offers, with what to bring, the cost, and the proof to keep.
In person at an MVD field office. This is the standard route. The buyer brings the signed title (with the disclosure completed or the separate MVD-10187 attached), a bill of sale, and a valid ID to any MVD field office. Pay the 4% motor vehicle excise tax plus title and registration fees by cash, check, or card depending on the office. Keep the stamped receipt and a copy of the form as your proof of filing.
In person at MVD Express or a partner office. Privately run MVD Express and similar partner sites accept the same packet, often with shorter waits, for a small added service fee on top of the state taxes and fees. Bring the identical documents and payment. Ask for and keep a printed receipt showing the transaction date.
By mail. Some New Mexico title transfers can be mailed to the Motor Vehicle Division, Title Section, in Santa Fe, but you should call ahead or check the MVD title pages first, since not every transfer qualifies. Send copies, never originals you cannot replace, plus a check for the tax and fees, by certified mail so you have a tracking record. Keep the certified-mail receipt and copies of everything as your proof.
Online. The standalone odometer disclosure itself is not filed through a web portal in New Mexico, because it needs original handwritten signatures. Use MVD Online Services for related tasks like registration renewal, but plan to handle the odometer disclosure and title transfer with paper and signatures.
What Happens After You File
Once the MVD accepts your packet, the agency records the mileage you disclosed and links it to the vehicle’s permanent record. The buyer receives a new certificate of title in their name, usually by mail within a few weeks, and the disclosed mileage becomes part of the car’s official history. If you checked EL or NM, the new title carries a brand noting the mileage status that stays with the car forever.
For the seller, filing a complete and honest disclosure ends your legal exposure on mileage for that sale. The MVD keeps the form on file and is not liable for false statements or recording errors, as the form’s own note states, which is why your accuracy matters so much. Keep your copy for at least five years in case a question ever comes up.
If something is wrong, the MVD may reject the packet and send the buyer back to fix it. A missing signature, a VIN mismatch, or an illegible mileage number are the usual culprits. Correcting the form and resubmitting restarts the short processing clock, so getting it right the first time saves the buyer weeks of waiting for plates and a title.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Small slips on this form cause big delays. Watch for each of these.
- Including tenths in the mileage. The form says “no tenths,” so adding them can get the entry questioned or rejected.
- Estimating or rounding the odometer reading. A guessed number that differs from the dash can be treated as a false statement under federal law.
- Choosing NM for a true rollover. This wrongly brands the title as unknown-mileage and can cut the car’s value.
- Choosing AM on a car with a known odometer problem. This is the exact fraud the law punishes with fines up to $10,000 and prison.
- Transposing a VIN character. A single wrong digit links your statement to the wrong vehicle and voids it.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name. A name that does not match the title breaks the ownership chain and stalls the transfer.
- Forgetting the buyer’s signature. A one-sided disclosure is incomplete and the MVD will not accept it.
- Leaving the date blank. An undated signature can void the entire disclosure.
- Back-dating or future-dating the signature. A date that is not the actual transfer day can be seen as falsifying a federal record.
- Using pencil or erasable ink. The MVD rejects entries that can be altered after signing.
- Filling out an exempt vehicle’s form incorrectly. Misapplying the 25-year or 16,000-pound exemption can confuse the clerk and delay the title.
- Filing the form alone without the title and bill of sale. The odometer statement must travel with the full transfer packet or it goes nowhere.
Do’s and Don’ts
A quick reference for getting the form right the first time.
Do’s
- Do read the odometer in person right before signing, because the law wants the true mileage at the moment of transfer.
- Do print in capital letters with blue or black ink, since clear, permanent entries prevent rejection.
- Do copy the VIN one character at a time, because the VIN is the field most likely to carry a typo.
- Do check only one certification box, since the form allows exactly one mileage status.
- Do keep a copy for at least five years, because it protects you if a mileage dispute ever arises.
- Do bring the title and a bill of sale together, since the disclosure cannot be filed on its own.
Don’ts
- Don’t pre-sign or back-date the form, because a false date can be treated as a federal violation.
- Don’t guess or round the mileage, since even a small false number can trigger penalties.
- Don’t use white-out or pencil, because alterable entries void the disclosure.
- Don’t skip the buyer’s signature, since a one-sided form is not valid.
- Don’t pick AM to hide a known problem, because that is odometer fraud.
- Don’t pay third-party sites for the form, since the official MVD copy is free.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most New Mexicans complete this short form themselves, but a busy office or a tricky title can make paid help worth it. Here is how the two paths compare.
| Filing on Your Own | Filing With Help (MVD Express or Title Service) |
|---|---|
| Free, since the MVD form costs nothing, which keeps more money in your pocket. | Costs a service fee, but saves you the time of standing in a long line. |
| Full control over accuracy, because you enter every field yourself. | Staff catch common errors, which lowers the chance of rejection. |
| Requires you to learn the AM, EL, and NM rules, which takes a little study. | Experts know exactly which box to check, which helps with rollovers and discrepancies. |
| You handle any rejection and re-filing, which can mean a second trip. | Many offices fix issues on the spot, which avoids a return visit. |
| Best for a simple, clean private sale with accurate mileage. | Best for branded titles, inherited vehicles, or out-of-state complications. |
Pros of doing it yourself: it is free, it is fast for a clean sale, you control accuracy, you learn the process for next time, and you avoid sharing personal details with a middleman.
Cons of doing it yourself: you must learn the rules, you face the lines, you absorb the cost of mistakes, you handle re-filing, and odd cases can overwhelm a first-timer.
FAQs
Where do I write the odometer reading on the New Mexico form?
Yes, there is a dedicated line in the “Certification by Transferor/Seller” section that reads “the odometer reading of this vehicle is ___ (no tenths) miles,” and you write the whole number there.
Do I include tenths of a mile in the odometer reading?
No. The form clearly says “no tenths,” so drop any digits after the decimal and write only the whole number of miles.
Which box do I check if my old odometer rolled past 99,999?
Yes, check “Mileage in Excess of Mechanical Limits (EL),” because a natural rollover means the displayed number is lower than the true total mileage.
Do I check “Not the Actual Mileage (NM)” for a rolled-over odometer?
No. Use EL for a true rollover; NM is only for a broken, replaced, or tampered odometer where the real mileage is unknown.
Is a 2001 model-year vehicle exempt from odometer disclosure?
Yes. The federal 25-year exemption covers vehicles model year 2001 and older as of 2026, so no disclosure is required for those vehicles.
Do both the buyer and seller have to sign this form?
Yes. The seller signs as transferor and the buyer signs as transferee; without both handwritten signatures the disclosure is incomplete and unfilable.
Do I write my printed name or my signature in the “Seller’s Name (printed)” box?
Yes, print your name there in plain letters; your handwritten signature goes separately in the “Transferor’s/Seller’s Signature” box lower on the form.
Can I type or stamp my signature on the form?
No. Federal odometer rules require a genuine handwritten signature, so typed, stamped, or electronic signatures are not accepted for this paper form.
Do I file the odometer statement by itself at the MVD?
No. It must travel with the title transfer packet, including the certificate of title and a bill of sale, when the buyer applies for a new title.
Is the New Mexico odometer disclosure form free?
Yes. You can download Form MVD-10187 for free from the MVD website, and third-party “unlock” fees are never required.
Does an “as-is” sale let me skip the odometer disclosure?
No. An as-is clause does not waive the federal disclosure duty; the Truth in Mileage Act applies to every eligible transfer regardless of sale terms.
Will checking NM permanently brand the title?
Yes. An NM disclosure usually causes the title to carry a “not actual mileage” brand that follows the vehicle for the rest of its life.
What penalty do I face for a false odometer reading?
Yes, there are real penalties: federal law allows fines up to $10,000 and up to three years in prison, plus civil damages of treble the actual loss or $1,500, whichever is greater.
Do I need this form for a vehicle over 16,000 pounds GVWR?
No. Vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating above 16,000 pounds are exempt from the federal odometer disclosure requirement, so no statement is needed.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Alabama Odometer Disclosure Statement (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Nevada DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the New Mexico MVD Application for Certificate of Title (Form MVD-10002) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out New Mexico MVD Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out New Mexico MVD Vehicle Registration Application + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs