The Oregon DMV Application for Replacement / Duplicate Title (Form 735-515) is the state form you file with the Oregon Driver and Motor Vehicle Services Division (DMV) to get a new copy of a vehicle title that was lost, destroyed, or mutilated, when no owner is changing. You use it to prove you still own the vehicle and to ask DMV to print a fresh title that matches the last one it issued. The current version is the Form 735-515 revision (9-23), printed in the bottom-left corner, so check that date before you start.
A missing title can freeze a sale, block a refinance, or stop a registration renewal cold. Oregon law under ORS 803.065 lets DMV issue a replacement, but only when the form is filled out to match DMV’s records and signed by the right person. Oregon DMV processes hundreds of thousands of title transactions each year, and a single wrong box, an unsigned line, or a name that does not match records can bounce your request back and add weeks to the wait.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📄 What Form 735-515 does and exactly who must sign it
- 🗂️ Every document and number to gather before you open the form
- ✍️ A line-by-line walkthrough of all 18 fields with sample entries
- 💰 The current title fee and every way to file and pay
- ⚠️ The mistakes that get a replacement title rejected and how to dodge them
What Form 735-515 Is and Who Must File It
Form 735-515 is Oregon’s official Application for Replacement / Duplicate Title. You file it when the paper title DMV already issued is gone, ruined, or torn, and ownership is not changing. The form tells DMV to reprint the title exactly as the last one read, including every owner and lienholder on record. You can find current fees and forms at the Oregon DMV website.
The person who files is almost always the everyday vehicle owner whose title slipped out of a glovebox, got soaked in a flood, or was shredded by mistake. But the form also fits co-owners, leasing companies, banks holding a security interest, and people sorting out a vehicle after a death. The signature rule is strict: at least one owner or security interest holder listed on DMV records must sign line 16 or 17.
The legal backbone is ORS 803.065, which authorizes a duplicate or replacement certificate of title. The receiving agency is the Driver and Motor Vehicle Services Division at 1905 Lana Ave NE, Salem, Oregon 97314. The penalty for cheating is real: the certification block warns that knowingly making a false statement on a title application violates ORS 803.070, a Class A misdemeanor punishable by up to one year in jail, a fine of up to $6,250, or both.
Plain-English meaning of the statute: the law gives DMV the power to print you a fresh title, but only the true owner or lienholder can ask for it. The consequence of ignoring it: if someone who is not on record signs without the proper certification on line 18, DMV rejects the request. A mini-scenario: when Dana finds her title chewed by the family dog, she files 735-515 because she is still the owner and nothing is being sold. A common misconception: many people think a replacement title is a different document than the original, but it is the same legal title, simply reprinted.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gathering everything first saves a second trip to the mailbox or the DMV counter. The form asks you to match DMV’s records, so you need the exact details from the last title, not your best guess. Pull these items together before you write a single letter on the page.
- Vehicle Identification Number (VIN): the 17-character code on your dashboard or door jamb; without it, DMV cannot pin down your exact vehicle.
- Oregon Title Number: the number from your old title or DMV records; missing it slows the match but does not stop the filing.
- Present Oregon plate number: confirms the vehicle on record; a wrong plate can route your form to the wrong file.
- Year, make, style of the vehicle: basic identity check; errors here trigger a manual review.
- Full legal name of every owner, exactly as on record: a name mismatch is the top cause of held titles.
- Driver license, ID, or customer number and date of birth for each owner: ties you to DMV’s customer record so staff can verify you.
- Security interest holder (lienholder) name and address, if any loan remains: the new title must show the lender, and leaving it off creates a defective title.
- Current mailing address: where the new title gets sent; a stale address means your title lands in a stranger’s box.
- The correct fee: the title fee must match your vehicle type, or DMV returns the form unprocessed.
If you cannot find the old title number, do not panic. DMV can locate your record from the VIN and plate, though supplying the title number speeds things up. If any owner’s name has changed since the last title, that is a different transaction and may need extra documents.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You get Form 735-515 free from the State of Oregon. The fastest route is the fillable PDF on the official site, which you can type into on a computer and then print. Download it directly from the 735-515 fillable PDF hosted by the Oregon Department of Transportation.
You can also pick up a paper copy at any Oregon DMV field office, or call DMV at (503) 945-5000 to request one by mail. The fillable version is best because typed entries are easier for staff to read than handwriting, which cuts down on rejections from unreadable text. The form is one page front and back, with the fields on the front and the instructions on the back.
Why the source matters: using the official PDF guarantees you have the current (9-23) revision, not an outdated copy floating around a third-party site. The consequence of an old version: DMV may reject a superseded form, or it may lack a field the agency now requires. A mini-scenario: Marcus prints a 2018 copy he saved years ago, mails it in, and waits three weeks only to get it returned for the wrong revision. A common misconception: people assume any “duplicate title form” found online works, but only the official Oregon 735-515 is accepted by Oregon DMV.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form 735-515 Line by Line
Complete application lines 1 through 18, listing the ownership information currently on DMV records. Print clearly in black or blue ink if you write by hand, or type into the fillable PDF. Each field below uses the exact label printed on the form.
Top Box: Title Fee, Dealer Number, and MPG
The shaded box at the top right holds the TITLE FEE, DEALER NUMBER, and MPG rating. In plain terms, this box records how much you are paying and the fuel-efficiency category that sets your fee. As a private owner, you write your fee in the TITLE FEE dollar field and leave DEALER NUMBER blank, since that line is only for licensed dealers. For example, Maria Lopez writes $77 in the TITLE FEE box for her gas sedan.
The MPG section asks you to check the fuel type, such as gas, diesel, hybrid, or electric, because Oregon sets title fees by MPG rating. If you have an all-electric car, you check ELECTRIC, which carries a higher fee. A common mistake is leaving the fee box blank and assuming DMV will fill it; the direct consequence is a returned form and a delay while DMV asks you to resubmit with payment. A widespread misconception is that the duplicate has its own special fee, but the title fee is the same whether it is a first title, a transfer, or a replacement.
Line 1: Vehicle Information (Plate, Year, Make, Style, VIN, Oregon Title #)
Line 1 asks for the full identity of the vehicle: PRESENT OREGON PLATE #, YEAR, MAKE, STYLE, VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN), and OREGON TITLE #. This block tells DMV exactly which vehicle needs a new title. Copy the VIN character for character from the dashboard plate or your registration, and enter the year, make, and style as they appear on record. For example, James Carter enters plate ABC123, 2015, TOYOTA, 4-DOOR SEDAN, VIN 4T1BF1FK0FU000000, Oregon Title # 1234567.
If you cannot find the Oregon Title #, leave it blank and rely on the VIN and plate; DMV can match the record from those. The most common mistake here is transposing a digit in the VIN, which points DMV to the wrong vehicle or no vehicle at all, freezing the whole request. A frequent misconception is that the VIN and the plate number are interchangeable, but they are separate identifiers and DMV needs the VIN to verify the vehicle.
Lines 2–3: Equipment, Weight, Fuel, and First Owner Name
Lines 2 and 3 capture EQUIPMENT #, REG WEIGHT / LENGTH, GVWR OVER 26,000 LBS, the fuel-type checkboxes, and the first owner block: PRINT FULL LEGAL NAME: LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE, ODL / ID / CUSTOMER #, and DATE OF BIRTH (MM/DD/YYYY). Most private owners leave the equipment and heavy-weight fields blank, since those apply to commercial or oversize vehicles. Print your name in the exact order the form demands, last name first. For example, Maria Lopez writes LOPEZ, MARIA, ELENA and her date of birth 03/14/1985.
Check the OWNER or LESSEE box to show your role, and enter your driver license or customer number so DMV ties the form to your record. If you have a P.O. Box but no street address yet, you still must list a residence address separately on the lines that ask for it. The classic mistake is writing the name in first-last order; the consequence is a mismatch with DMV records that holds the title until you fix it. A common misconception is that you can use a nickname or shortened name, but the form requires your full legal name as recorded.
Lines 4–7: Mailing Address, Residence Address, and Counties
Lines 4 through 7 collect the owner or lessee addresses: MAILING ADDRESS, RESIDENCE ADDRESS, CITY, STATE, ZIP CODE, COUNTY OF RESIDENCE, and COUNTY OF MAILING. The mailing address is where DMV sends the new title and your customer mail, while the residence address is where you actually live. If both are the same, you may repeat them. For example, James Carter lists mailing and residence as 742 Evergreen Ter, Portland, OR 97201, County of Residence MULTNOMAH.
Your county matters because Clackamas, Multnomah, and Washington counties add their own fees to many transactions. The most common mistake is listing an old address out of habit; the consequence is that your replacement title gets mailed to a place you no longer control, risking identity theft. A frequent misconception is that DMV will use the address it has on file, but the form asks you to confirm it, and a blank or wrong entry can misroute your title.
Line 8: Joint Owner or Lessee Name
Line 8 provides space for a second and even third owner: PRINT FULL LEGAL NAME: LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE OF JOINT OWNER OR LESSEE, with each joint owner’s ODL / ID / CUSTOMER # and DATE OF BIRTH. You complete this only if the title lists more than one owner. List every co-owner exactly as the last title showed them, in last-first-middle order. For example, Priya Nair writes NAIR, PRIYA, S and her spouse RAO, VIKRAM, K on the joint owner lines.
If the title shows two names joined by “and,” both owners may need to sign later; if joined by “or,” one signature can be enough. The big mistake here is dropping a co-owner who was on the original title; the consequence is a replacement title that does not match records, which DMV will reject. A common misconception is that a spouse is automatically an owner, but only the names printed on the title count, so check the record before you add or skip a name.
Line 9: One-Time Mailing Address and Vehicle Address
Line 9 holds the ONE-TIME MAILING ADDRESS (for this transaction only), checkboxes for Reg. Only, Title Only, or Both, plus the VEHICLE ADDRESS and its county. The one-time mailing address sends this single title to a different place without changing your permanent record. You use it when you want the title shipped somewhere other than your usual mailing address, such as to a lender. For example, Dana Kim enters a one-time mailing address of her credit union and checks Title Only.
The vehicle address line is for when the car sits somewhere other than your residence, such as a park-model RV site. A common mistake is using the one-time address when you actually moved, which fails to update your record and causes future mail to go astray. A frequent misconception is that the one-time address permanently changes your file, but it applies to this transaction alone and then disappears from your customer record.
Lines 10–11: Security Interest Holder (Lienholder)
Lines 10 and 11 record the SECURITY INTEREST HOLDER (Bank, Finance Company, Person, etc.), its ODL / ID / CUSTOMER # and DATE OF BIRTH, plus the SECURITY INTEREST HOLDER ADDRESS and TELEPHONE #. This is the lienholder, the lender that still has a loan secured by your vehicle. If you owe money on the car, you must list the lender exactly as it appears on record so the new title shows the lien. For example, James Carter writes OREGON COMMUNITY CREDIT UNION, 2880 Chad Dr, Eugene, OR 97408.
If you paid the loan off but DMV records still show the lien, you may need a separate lien release before the title can be cleared. The serious mistake is leaving this blank when a lien exists; the consequence is a title that omits the lender, which is defective and may need to be redone. A common misconception is that paying off the loan automatically removes the lender from the title, but DMV only drops the lien when it receives a proper release.
Lines 12–13: Secondary Interest Holder
Lines 12 and 13 capture the SECONDARY INTEREST HOLDER, with its ODL / ID / CUSTOMER #, DATE OF BIRTH, ADDRESS, and TELEPHONE #. A secondary interest holder is a second lender or party with a claim ranked behind the first lienholder. Most owners leave these lines blank because they have only one loan or none at all. For example, a borrower with both a primary bank loan and a secondary credit line lists the second lender here, such as PACIFIC FINANCE LLC.
You complete this only when DMV records actually show a second secured party. The mistake of inventing a secondary holder where none exists adds a phantom claim to your title and forces a correction. A common misconception is that a co-signer is a secondary interest holder, but a co-signer is usually a co-owner, not a separate secured party, so do not confuse the two.
Lines 14–15: Lessor
Lines 14 and 15 hold the LESSOR information, completed only if a lessee is shown as owner on line 3. The lessor is the company that owns a leased vehicle and leases it to you. You fill this in only for leased vehicles where the lease company holds title interest. For example, a lessee enters TOYOTA LEASE TRUST with its address and telephone number.
If you own your car outright or finance it with a normal loan, you skip these lines entirely. The mistake of completing the lessor block on a non-leased vehicle creates a false interest that DMV must untangle. A common misconception is that any auto loan involves a lessor, but a lease and a loan are different, and only a true lease uses lines 14 and 15.
Lines 16–17: Signatures of Owner, Security Interest Holder, or Lessor
Lines 16 and 17 are the SIGNATURE OF OWNER, SECURITY INTEREST HOLDER OR LESSOR, each with a DATE and PHONE #. By signing, you certify the title was lost, destroyed, or mutilated and was not signed over to anyone else. At least one owner or security interest holder listed on DMV records must sign here. For example, Maria Lopez signs line 16, dates it 06/05/2026, and lists her phone number.
Note the form’s warning in bold: signatures on this form do not release interest, so signing does not give your car away. The most damaging mistake is leaving both lines unsigned, which makes the application invalid and guarantees a rejection. A common misconception is that any household member can sign, but only an owner or lienholder of record may sign lines 16 or 17.
Line 18: Signature of Person Certifying the Title Is Lost (If Not an Owner)
Line 18 is the SIGNATURE OF PERSON CERTIFYING THE TITLE IS LOST, DESTROYED, OR MUTILATED, IF NOT AN OWNER SHOWN ON DMV RECORDS. This line covers the case where the person who knows what happened to the title is not an owner on record. That person signs here to certify the title’s fate while an owner or lienholder still signs line 16 or 17. For example, an estate representative who handled a deceased owner’s papers signs line 18 to certify the title was destroyed.
You leave line 18 blank when an owner of record can personally certify the loss. The mistake of using line 18 in place of an owner’s required signature does not satisfy the rule, because DMV still needs an owner or lienholder signature on line 16 or 17. A common misconception is that line 18 alone can carry the whole application, but it is an add-on certification, not a substitute for the owner signature.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
These walkthroughs follow three filers through the form from top to bottom. Each shows what goes in the major fields so you can model your own entries.
Scenario 1: Maria Lopez, single owner, lost title, no lien. Maria’s gas sedan title vanished in a move, she owns it free and clear, and nothing is being sold.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Title Fee box | $77 |
| MPG / fuel type | Checks GAS |
| Line 1 VIN | 4T1BF1FK0FU000000 |
| Line 1 Year/Make/Style | 2015 / TOYOTA / 4-DOOR SEDAN |
| Line 2–3 Name | LOPEZ, MARIA, ELENA, DOB 03/14/1985 |
| Line 4–7 Address | 742 Evergreen Ter, Portland, OR 97201, County MULTNOMAH |
| Lines 10–15 Lienholder | Left blank, no loan |
| Line 16 Signature | Signs and dates 06/05/2026 |
Scenario 2: James and Carla Reed, co-owners, title destroyed, with a lien. Their title was ruined in a basement flood, they share ownership, and a credit union still holds a loan.
| Form Section | What James and Carla Enter |
|---|---|
| Title Fee box | $77 |
| Line 1 VIN | 1HGCM82633A000000 |
| Line 2–3 First owner | REED, JAMES, A, DOB 07/22/1979 |
| Line 8 Joint owner | REED, CARLA, M, DOB 09/30/1981 |
| Line 4–7 Address | 88 River Rd, Eugene, OR 97401, County LANE |
| Lines 10–11 Lienholder | OREGON COMMUNITY CREDIT UNION, 2880 Chad Dr, Eugene, OR 97408 |
| Line 16 / 17 Signatures | James signs line 16, Carla signs line 17 |
| Certification | Certifies title destroyed in flood |
Scenario 3: Dana Kim, owner of an electric car, mutilated title, mailing to lender. Dana’s title was torn beyond use, she still owes a loan, and she wants the new title sent to her credit union.
| Form Section | What Dana Enters |
|---|---|
| Title Fee box | $192 |
| MPG / fuel type | Checks ELECTRIC |
| Line 1 VIN | 5YJ3E1EA7KF000000 |
| Line 2–3 Name | KIM, DANA, J, DOB 11/05/1990 |
| Line 9 One-time mailing | Credit union address, checks Title Only |
| Lines 10–11 Lienholder | ONPOINT COMMUNITY CREDIT UNION with address |
| Line 16 Signature | Signs and dates, attaches mutilated pieces |
| Certification | Certifies title mutilated, remaining pieces attached |
How to File the Completed Form 735-515
Once the form is complete and signed, you submit it with the correct fee through one of two channels. Find your exact fee at the Oregon DMV vehicle fees page before you send anything, because an underpayment bounces the request.
By mail: send the signed form and payment to DMV, 1905 Lana Ave NE, Salem OR 97314. Pay by check or money order made out to Oregon DMV; do not mail cash. Processing typically takes a few weeks, and your proof of filing is your copy of the form plus the canceled check or money order receipt. Keep a photo of the completed form before mailing.
In person: take the form to any Oregon DMV office, where you can pay by card, check, or money order. An appointment speeds your visit, and the clerk gives you a receipt that serves as proof of filing. The new title still arrives by mail, not over the counter, so the address fields must be correct.
The standard title fee under ORS 803.090 is $77 for most vehicles, $90 for heavy vehicles over 26,000 pounds and permanent-registration trailers, $27 for a salvage title, and $192 for an electric vehicle. Under House Bill 3991, Oregon raised base title fees for most vehicles for transactions on or after December 31, 2025, so confirm the live amount on the DMV fee page before you pay. If you file a replacement at the same time as a title transfer for the same vehicle, you pay only the transfer fee.
What Happens After You File
After DMV receives your form and fee, staff match your entries against the record on file. When everything lines up and the right person signed, DMV prints a new title showing all the same owners and lienholders as the last one. A replacement title issued by DMV reflects all ownership interests recorded on the original certificate, so the lien stays on until properly released.
The new title arrives by mail to the address you listed, usually within a few weeks, though peak periods run longer. If DMV finds a mismatch, an unsigned line, or a fee shortfall, it returns the form with a notice explaining what to fix. Once you correct the issue and resubmit, the clock restarts, which is why getting it right the first time saves the most time.
If your old title later turns up after you file, do not use it; the replacement is now the valid title, and the old one is void. Keep your new title in a safe, dry place away from the vehicle so it cannot be lost or stolen with the car. Store a clear photo or scan as a backup record.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out Form 735-515
Each error below has a direct cost, usually a returned form and weeks of delay. Read this list before you mail anything.
- Transposing a digit in the VIN points DMV to the wrong vehicle and freezes the request.
- Writing your name in first-last order instead of LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE causes a record mismatch and a hold.
- Leaving lines 16 and 17 unsigned makes the application invalid and guarantees rejection.
- Dropping a co-owner who was on the original title produces a title that fails to match records.
- Omitting the lienholder on lines 10–11 when a loan exists creates a defective title.
- Listing an old mailing address sends your new title to a place you no longer control.
- Leaving the title fee box blank causes DMV to return the form for payment.
- Paying the wrong fee for your vehicle type triggers a resubmission for the balance.
- Using an outdated revision of the form risks rejection for the wrong version.
- Mailing cash instead of a check or money order leaves your payment unaccepted.
- Adding a phantom secondary interest holder or lessor creates a false claim DMV must untangle.
- Using line 18 in place of an owner signature fails the rule that an owner or lienholder must sign line 16 or 17.
Do’s and Don’ts
These quick rules keep your application clean and your title on the way.
Do’s
- Do print or type clearly, because unreadable entries get kicked back for clarification.
- Do match every name and number to DMV records, since mismatches are the top cause of holds.
- Do confirm your fee on the official fee page first, because the wrong amount delays processing.
- Do attach the remaining pieces if the title is mutilated, since the form requires them.
- Do keep a copy or photo of the signed form, because it is your proof of filing.
- Do sign line 16 or 17 as an owner or lienholder of record, since the form is invalid without it.
Don’ts
- Don’t use an old saved version of the form, because DMV may reject an outdated revision.
- Don’t mail cash, since DMV accepts only checks or money orders by mail.
- Don’t guess at the VIN or title number, because errors point DMV to the wrong record.
- Don’t list a one-time mailing address when you actually moved, since your record will not update.
- Don’t use the old title if it reappears, because the replacement is now the only valid one.
- Don’t sign for someone else who is not you, since only an owner or lienholder of record may sign.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most owners file 735-515 themselves, but some use a title service or dealer. Here is how the two paths compare.
Pros of filing on your own
- It is cheaper, because you pay only the state title fee and no service markup.
- You control accuracy, since you check every field against your own records.
- It is fast for simple cases, as a single owner with no lien has little to complete.
- You learn your record, which helps with future title or registration tasks.
- You avoid sharing personal data with a third party, reducing exposure.
Cons of filing on your own
- You bear the risk of errors, and a mistake costs you the resubmission delay.
- Complex cases get tricky, such as estates, salvage, or unclear liens.
- You handle the mailing and tracking yourself, with no one chasing DMV for you.
- You must decode the fee chart alone, which changed under recent fee laws.
- You may miss a related form, like the Form 735-226 needed when ownership changes.
Replacement Title vs. Transfer of Title
Filers often confuse replacing a lost title with transferring one to a new owner. They are different transactions with different forms.
| Replacement / Duplicate Title (735-515) | Title Transfer (735-226) |
|---|---|
| Used when no owner is changing and the title is lost, destroyed, or mutilated | Used when ownership changes, such as a sale or gift |
| Reprints the title exactly as last issued | Issues a new title in the new owner’s name |
| Signed by an owner or lienholder of record | Requires releases from previous owners |
| Fee is the standard title fee | Fee is the title transfer fee |
| No odometer disclosure needed for the reprint | Odometer disclosure required for many 2011-or-newer vehicles |
If an odometer disclosure is required and all owners are changing, you cannot replace and transfer at the same time. In that case you first follow the “No Change in Owners” steps to get the replacement, then transfer it to the new owner with Form 735-226 and, when needed, a Secure Odometer Disclosure/Reassignment, Form 735-403A.
Key Entities That Interact With Form 735-515
Several agencies, forms, and rules touch this process. Knowing each role helps you route your paperwork correctly.
- Oregon Driver and Motor Vehicle Services Division (DMV): the agency that receives the form and prints the title.
- Oregon Department of Transportation (ODOT): the parent agency that publishes the form and fee chapters.
- ORS 803.065 and 803.090: the statutes authorizing replacement titles and setting the fees.
- Form 735-226, Application for Title and Registration: used for ownership changes or when no odometer disclosure is required.
- Form 735-512, Application for Title Never Received: used when a recently issued title never arrived in the mail.
- Form 735-403A, Secure Odometer Disclosure/Reassignment: used when previous owners are not available to disclose the odometer on the title.
If you hold a salvage vehicle, note that replacement salvage titles follow their own path under OAR 735-024-0150, and the salvage title fee is lower at $27. When a county like Multnomah, Clackamas, or Washington is involved, county fees may apply on top of the state fee.
FAQs
Do I write my name last-first on Form 735-515?
Yes. The owner name fields demand LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE order so your entry matches DMV records. Writing first-last causes a mismatch that holds your replacement title until you correct it.
Do I need the Oregon Title Number if I lost the title?
No. You can leave the Oregon Title # blank and rely on the VIN and plate. DMV can locate your record from those, though the title number speeds the match.
Do I list my lender on lines 10–11 if I still owe money?
Yes. You must list the security interest holder exactly as on record. Leaving it blank when a lien exists creates a defective title that DMV may have to redo.
Do both co-owners have to sign the form?
No. At least one owner or security interest holder of record must sign line 16 or 17, though titles joined by “and” may need both signatures.
Do I use line 18 instead of signing as the owner?
No. Line 18 is only for a non-owner certifying the loss, and an owner or lienholder of record must still sign line 16 or 17.
Do I pay a separate duplicate-title fee?
No. The title fee is the same whether it is a first title, transfer, or replacement, set by ORS 803.090 at $77 for most vehicles.
Do electric vehicles cost more to title?
Yes. Oregon charges $192 to title an electric vehicle under 26,000 pounds, far above the $77 standard fee for most gas vehicles.
Do I check Owner or Lessee on line 3 for a financed car?
Yes. Check Owner if you bought the car with a loan, because a loan makes you the owner; check Lessee only for a true lease.
Do I send cash with a mailed application?
No. Mail a check or money order payable to Oregon DMV, never cash, or your payment will not be accepted and the form is returned.
Do I need a new form if my title was only torn, not lost?
Yes. A mutilated title still uses Form 735-515, and you attach the remaining pieces and certify the title is mutilated on the form.
Do I update my address on this form or separately?
Yes. You confirm your mailing and residence address right on lines 4–7, and the address you list is where DMV sends the new title.
Do I file 735-515 if I never received a title that was recently issued?
No. Use Form 735-512, Application for Title Never Received, when a recently issued title never arrived, rather than the replacement form.
Do I need the form if no odometer disclosure is required and ownership is changing?
No. You can instead use Form 735-226 and mark the certification box stating the title was lost, destroyed, or mutilated, with releases from previous owners.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Nevada DMV Application for Vehicle Title (VP-012) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Oregon DMV Application for Title and Registration (Form 735-226) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Oregon DMV Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Oregon DMV Vehicle Registration Renewal (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Vermont DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs