The Oregon Application for Title and Registration, Form 735-226, is the form you file with the Oregon Driver and Motor Vehicle Services Division (DMV) to put a vehicle in your name and get it registered to drive on public roads. Anyone who buys, inherits, gifts, or brings a vehicle into Oregon uses this one form, and the version most offices now use carries a revision date of 02/01/26, so confirm yours matches before you start.
This form is the single document that tells DMV who owns the vehicle, who holds a loan on it, and where to mail the title. Get a box wrong and you do not just face a delay — you can trigger a hold, a returned packet, or a late fee that grows the longer you wait, since Oregon law (ORS 803.105) gives you only 30 days from the date of sale to file. About 3.9 million vehicles are registered in Oregon, and thousands of title packets are returned each year for missing odometer readings, missing signatures, or a missing original title.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📋 How to gather every document and ID number before you open the form, so DMV does not bounce your packet back.
- ✍️ How to fill in all 21 numbered lines on Form 735-226, with exact entries shown for real people.
- 🚗 Three full walkthroughs — a private used-car buyer, a new resident with an out-of-state title, and a family gift transfer.
- 💵 What the new House Bill 3991 fees cost you starting December 31, 2025, and how to estimate your total.
- ⚠️ The 12 most common mistakes that delay titles, plus 12 FAQs that answer the questions filers ask most.
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
Form 735-226 is the official Oregon DMV application that creates a new title record and registers a vehicle in the owner’s name. The form goes to the Driver and Motor Vehicle Services Division of the Oregon Department of Transportation, and it is required any time ownership changes or a vehicle is new to Oregon. The DMV Title and Registration Handbook, Chapter B explains that the application “tells DMV who to list on the resulting title,” including any lessee, trust, or security interest holder.
You must file this form if you bought a vehicle from a private party, received one as a gift or inheritance, moved to Oregon with a vehicle titled in another state, or need to add or remove an owner or lienholder. Oregon law under ORS 803.105 makes failing to present the title within 30 days a Class D traffic violation, and it forces DMV to charge a late fee. The plain-English version: the law exists so the state always knows the true, current owner of every vehicle on its roads.
The consequence of ignoring it is real. If you skip the filing, you cannot legally register or drive the vehicle, you cannot sell it cleanly later, and you stack up late fees. A common misconception is that the bill of sale alone proves ownership — it does not. In Oregon, only the title issued from a completed Form 735-226 is proof of legal ownership.
This form interacts with several other agencies and documents. The Department of Environmental Quality (DEQ) handles emissions testing in the Portland Metro and Medford areas, the Oregon Department of Revenue handles the vehicle use tax on some out-of-state dealer purchases, and U.S. Customs and Border Protection issues the CF7501 form needed for imported vehicles. Each one feeds a document or proof into your Form 735-226 packet.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form, because a packet missing even one item gets returned unprocessed. The instructions for vehicles new to Oregon (Form 735-6603) warn in bold: “DO NOT mail your application to DMV without the title, or it will be returned to you unprocessed.”
Here is your pre-filing checklist:
- The original title, MCO, or ownership document. This proves the seller had the right to transfer the vehicle; without the original (not a copy), DMV cannot create a new title.
- Your Oregon driver license, ID, or instruction permit. DMV uses the customer number and your name exactly as printed here; a name mismatch triggers a processing hold.
- The vehicle identification number (VIN). It must match the vehicle, the application, and the ownership document, or the packet stops.
- The current odometer reading and the date you read it. Federal and state law require this for vehicles under 20 years old; a blank reading voids the transfer.
- The purchase date. This starts your 30-day clock under ORS 803.105; miss it and a late fee applies.
- Security interest holder (lienholder) name and address. If you have a loan, leaving this off can mean DMV issues a title without the lender, which violates your loan terms.
- A VIN inspection ($9) for any out-of-state, salvage, or out-of-country title. Skip it and DMV cannot title a vehicle new to Oregon.
- DEQ Certificate of Compliance, if you live in the Portland Metro or Medford areas. Without it, registration is denied in those regions.
- Low Emission Vehicle (LEV) proof for 2009-or-newer cars with 7,500 miles or less. Missing proof stalls the title until you supply it or a Form 735-7309 exemption.
- Payment for all fees. A packet with the wrong fee amount is held until you pay the balance.
Pulling these together first is the single biggest time-saver in the whole process. A missing original title is the number-one reason packets bounce, and a returned packet can cost you weeks — long enough to slide past your 30-day window and into late-fee territory.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can get Form 735-226 three ways, and all of them lead to the same official version. The fastest is to download the fillable PDF directly from the Oregon DMV forms library, where you can type your entries on screen before printing. You can also pick up a paper copy at any Oregon DMV field office, or request one be mailed to you by calling DMV at 503-945-5000.
Always confirm the revision date printed in the lower corner of the form. The current handbook version is dated 02/01/26, and using an outdated form can mean missing fields that DMV now requires. If you download the fillable PDF, type in capital letters where possible and print single-sided on plain white paper.
A common misconception is that third-party sites that host “free” versions of Form 735-226 are official. They are not always current, and an outdated layout can cost you a return trip. The consequence of using a stale form is simple: DMV may reject it and ask you to redo the entire packet on the right version, so download from Oregon.gov when you can.
If a lender is holding your title because of a loan, you cannot start the packet alone. DMV provides a Security Interest Holder letter (Form 735-6603L) that you send to your lender, asking them to forward the title, your documents, and fees directly to DMV. This keeps the loan intact while still moving your title forward.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form 735-226 Line by Line
The front of Form 735-226 is built around 21 numbered lines, plus a Remarks section and gray fee boxes at the top. Fill it in with black or blue ink, print clearly, and never leave a required line blank. The line-by-line rules below come straight from the DMV Title and Registration Handbook, Chapter B.
Remarks Section and Gray-Shaded Fee Boxes (Top of Form)
This top strip asks for special notes and fee amounts, and most boxes here are for DMV office use only. You enter information in this area only if you are a dealer, are transferring plates, or need to note a special condition. Note the vehicle’s MPG if you know it, since that drives your registration fee.
To answer it, leave the gray fee boxes blank unless you are calculating fees, write any plate-transfer vehicle description in Remarks, and note the MPG where shown. For example, Diego Ramos writes “MPG 32” in the gray area and leaves the REG/REN FEE box for the clerk. If you are transferring plates from another vehicle, the handbook says to write that vehicle’s full description, including its VIN, in the Remarks section.
A common edge case is a plate transfer: if you move plates from a car you no longer own, you must list the old vehicle’s VIN here so DMV ties the plates correctly. The common mistake is writing your fee guess in a DMV-only box, which clerks must cross out and recalculate, slowing your visit. The misconception is that you must fill every box at the top — most are reserved for DMV staff, and you should leave them alone.
Line 1 — Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), Oregon Title #, and GVWR Box
Line 1 asks for the full VIN, any existing Oregon title number, and whether the vehicle’s gross weight rating tops 26,000 pounds. The VIN is the vehicle’s fingerprint, and it must match the vehicle, this form, and your ownership document exactly. Check the GVWR box only if your truck’s rating is over 26,000 pounds.
To answer it, copy the VIN character by character, including letters and numbers, with no spaces. For example, Priya Natarajan enters 1HGCM82633A004352 in the VIN box and leaves Oregon Title # blank because her car has never been titled in Oregon. If your vehicle already has an Oregon title, write that number in the Oregon Title # field.
The common edge case is a heavy truck: if the GVWR is over 26,000 pounds, checking that box changes your title fee. The most common mistake is transposing a single VIN digit, which causes DMV to reject the packet because the number will not match the title. The misconception is that the VIN on your registration card is good enough — DMV verifies it against the actual ownership document, so use the title.
Line 2 — Present Oregon Plate #, Vehicle Description, and Registration Weight/Length
Line 2 captures your current Oregon plate number (if any), the vehicle’s year, make, and body style, and a weight or length for vehicles registered that way. This line paints the basic picture of the vehicle for the title record. Fill it in even if some parts do not apply, marking those clearly.
To answer it, write the plate number if you have Oregon plates, then the year, make, and body style. For example, Diego Ramos enters “2018 Toyota Camry 4-door sedan” and leaves the plate box blank because he is buying his first car. If you are registering a trailer over 8½ feet wide, that box flags it as a Park Model RV.
The edge case is a vehicle registered by weight, such as a commercial trailer, where you must list the registration weight. The common mistake is leaving the body style off, which can lead DMV to issue the wrong plate type. The misconception is that “make” means the model name — make is the brand (Toyota), not the model (Camry), though the full description should include both.
Line 3 — Farm/Fleet ID, Equipment #, Motor Power, and Trailer Weight
Line 3 collects a farm or fleet account number, an optional equipment number, the type of motor power, and a trailer weight box. The motor power check box is the part most owners must complete. You check the box that matches how the vehicle is powered.
To answer it, check Gas, Diesel, Electric, Hybrid, Plug-in Hybrid, Natural Gas, or Other. For example, Priya Natarajan checks “Plug-in Hybrid” because her car charges from a wall outlet and also burns gasoline. The handbook explains that “Hybrid” is for vehicles using electricity plus another source, while “Plug-in Hybrid” is for those you can charge by plugging in.
The edge case is a vehicle with more than one power type, where you write in all types under “Other.” The common mistake is checking “Electric” for a plug-in hybrid, which can misstate your registration surcharge. The misconception is that motor power is cosmetic — it directly affects the MPG-based fee under ORS 803.422, so it must be accurate.
Line 4 — Odometer Reading and Date of Reading
Line 4 asks for the vehicle’s mileage and the date you read it. This is one of the most important lines on the entire form because federal and Oregon law require an accurate odometer disclosure on most transfers. If the seller (or dealer) already provided the disclosure on the title, you may leave this line blank.
To answer it, write the exact mileage shown on the odometer and the date you read it in MM/DD/YYYY format. For example, Diego Ramos enters “68,452” and “06/05/2026”. Round to the whole mile shown; never estimate or guess.
The edge case is a vehicle 20 years old or older, which is exempt from the disclosure requirement. The common mistake is leaving this blank when no disclosure appears on the title, which makes the transfer incomplete and stops the title. The misconception is that you can “round up” or write “exempt” on a newer car — false mileage is a federal offense and DMV will reject it.
Line 5 — Name of Owner, ODL/ID/Customer #, and Date of Birth
Line 5 asks for the full legal name of the registered owner, your DMV customer number, and your date of birth. Your name must match your Oregon driver license, ID card, or instruction permit exactly. This line is how DMV finds you in its database.
To answer it, write your name as it appears on your ODL, then your customer number and date of birth in MM/DD/YYYY. For example, Maria Lopez writes “LOPEZ, MARIA ELENA,” her customer number, and “03/14/1985”. If the owner is a business, list the business name and its DMV customer number.
The edge case is a recent legal name change: use the name on your current ID, then update both together if needed. The common mistake is using a nickname or maiden name that does not match your ID, which triggers a name-mismatch hold. The misconception is that any version of your name works — DMV cross-checks against its records, so it must match the card.
Line 6 — Owner’s Residence Address and Mailing Address
Line 6 asks for the actual residence address of the registered owner and a separate mailing address if it differs. The residence address must be where the owner truly lives, not a P.O. Box. The mailing address is where DMV sends your title and registration.
To answer it, write your physical street address on the residence line, and add a mailing address only if it is different. For example, Maria Lopez writes “742 SE Birch St” as her residence and leaves the mailing line blank because she gets mail there. A business owner uses the actual Oregon business location.
The edge case is a P.O. Box: you may use it for mailing, but the residence line must show a physical address. The common mistake is putting a P.O. Box on the residence line, which DMV rejects because it cannot verify county of residence. The misconception is that residence and mailing must match — they often differ, and that is fine as long as both are filled where needed.
Line 7 — City, State, ZIP, and County of Residence
Line 7 completes the address from Line 6 with city, state, ZIP code, and your county of residence, plus the county for any separate mailing address. Your county matters because some county fees are added to your registration. The city, state, and ZIP must match the residence and mailing addresses above.
To answer it, write the city, state, and ZIP for your residence, then your county, and repeat for the mailing address if different. For example, Maria Lopez writes “Portland, OR 97214” and “Multnomah” for her county. County of residence drives extra local fees in places like Multnomah, Clackamas, and Washington counties.
The edge case is living near a county line: use the county where you actually reside, not where you work. The common mistake is leaving county blank, which can cause DMV to omit or miscalculate the county registration fee. The misconception is that county does not matter — in metro counties it adds real dollars to your bill.
Lines 8 & 9 — Name of Joint Owner or Lessee
Lines 8 and 9 are for a second registered owner or a lessee, with their name, customer number, and date of birth. Use these lines only if more than one person will own the vehicle. The second owner’s name must also match their ODL or ID card.
To answer it, write the joint owner’s full name, customer number, and birth date the same way as Line 5. For example, Maria Lopez adds her husband “LOPEZ, CARLOS ANTONIO” on Line 8 with his customer number and “07/22/1983”. Leave these lines blank if there is only one owner.
The edge case is co-owners who want survivorship, which you must also mark on Line 12. The common mistake is listing a co-owner here but forgetting to have them sign on Line 20, which holds the title. The misconception is that adding a spouse is automatic — both owners must be listed and at least one must sign.
Line 10 & 11 — One-Time Mailing Address, Vehicle Address, and County of Use
Lines 10 and 11 cover a one-time mailing address, the address where the vehicle is primarily housed, and the county of use if different from your home county. The one-time mailing address is used once and is not saved in DMV systems. The vehicle address matters when a car is garaged somewhere other than the owner’s home.
To answer it, complete these lines only when they apply, then match city, state, and ZIP on Line 11. For example, a fleet manager, Janet Wu, lists the vehicle’s depot address on Line 10 because her trucks are dispatched from a yard, not her office. If the vehicle is used in a different county, name that county of use on Line 11.
The edge case is a business that garages vehicles away from its main office, which requires the vehicle address. The common mistake is using the one-time mailing line for a permanent address change, which fails because DMV does not retain it. The misconception is that everyone fills these lines — most individual owners leave them blank.
Line 12 — Survivorship
Line 12 asks whether you want survivorship on the title, with a YES or NO box. Survivorship means that if one owner dies, the vehicle passes automatically to the surviving owner without probate. If you check neither box, no survivorship is shown.
To answer it, check YES if co-owners want the vehicle to pass to the survivor, or NO if not. For example, Maria and Carlos Lopez check “YES” so the car goes to whichever spouse outlives the other. This line only matters when two or more owners are listed.
The edge case is a single owner, where survivorship does not apply and the box is left blank. The common mistake is leaving it blank when you wanted survivorship, which means heirs may face probate to claim the vehicle. The misconception is that marriage creates survivorship automatically — on a vehicle title, you must check the box for it to apply.
Lines 13 & 14 — Security Interest Holder and Address
Lines 13 and 14 list your lender — the bank, credit union, or person who holds a loan on the vehicle — with their name, customer number, and full address. This is required if you financed the vehicle. The lender’s interest is recorded so they appear on the title.
To answer it, write the lender’s full legal name, then their street, city, state, and ZIP on Line 14. For example, Diego Ramos enters “OREGON COMMUNITY CREDIT UNION” and its branch address because he financed his Camry. The lender’s phone number is optional but helpful.
The edge case is a private-party loan, such as a family member who lent money, who is listed the same way as a bank. The common mistake is leaving the lienholder off entirely, which can produce a “clean” title that violates your loan agreement and creates legal problems. The misconception is that the lender signs the form — no signature is required from a security interest holder.
Lines 15 & 16 — Secondary Security Interest Holder and Address
Lines 15 and 16 record a second lienholder, if more than one lender has a claim on the vehicle. This is rare for personal vehicles but common for some commercial financing. The fields mirror Lines 13 and 14.
To answer it, list the second lender’s name, customer number, and address only if a second loan exists. For example, a small business owner, Janet Wu, lists a second equipment financier here on a work truck with two loans. Leave these lines blank if there is only one lender.
The edge case is a vehicle refinanced with a new lender while the old lien is still releasing — confirm which lien is active. The common mistake is listing the same lender twice, which confuses the title record. The misconception is that everyone with a loan needs a secondary holder — most owners use only Lines 13 and 14.
Lines 17 & 18 — Lessor’s Name and Address
Lines 17 and 18 are for the lessor — the leasing company that owns a leased vehicle — with name, customer number, date of birth (if an individual), and address. Use these lines only when the vehicle is leased. The lessor is the legal owner, while the lessee operates the vehicle.
To answer it, list the leasing company’s name and address here, with the lessee shown in the owner section. For example, a lessee, Tom Becker, lists “ABC LEASING LLC” on Line 17 with its corporate address. The handbook notes the lessor may decide whether the lessor or lessee is shown as registered owner.
The edge case is a lease with both a lessor and a separate security interest holder, where both the lessee and lessor must sign. The common mistake is putting the lessor in the owner section with the lessee under a “c/o” address, which the handbook says is not acceptable. The misconception is that a leased car is titled in your name — on a lease, the leasing company is the owner.
Line 19 — Insurance/Policy Number
Line 19 asks for your insurance policy number, but only in specific renewal-with-transfer situations. You complete it when a registration renewal rides along with a title transfer and the registered owners are not changing. For most fresh title transfers, this line stays blank.
To answer it, write your active policy number only when DMV instructs, such as removing a lienholder while keeping the same owner. For example, Maria Lopez leaves Line 19 blank because she is doing a standard title transfer, not a renewal. Oregon requires insurance to drive, but this specific line is narrow in scope.
The edge case is renewing registration at the same time you remove a paid-off lender, where the policy number is needed. The common mistake is assuming proof of insurance is filed with this form — it is not; you carry it in the car. The misconception is that everyone fills this line — most transfer filers leave it empty.
Line 20 — Signature of Registered Owner or Lessee
Line 20 is where at least one registered owner or lessee signs and dates the application. A signature here is mandatory; without it, DMV cannot process the form. The date you sign also documents when you completed the application.
To answer it, sign your name and write the date; hand-printed signatures are accepted, and a cursive signature is not required. For example, Diego Ramos signs “Diego Ramos” and dates it “06/05/2026”. If a business owns the vehicle, an authorized representative signs for the company.
The edge case is an owner who cannot write, who may use an “X” mark as their signature. The common mistake is submitting the form unsigned, which is one of the top reasons packets are returned. The misconception is that all owners must sign — only one registered owner is required to sign, though all must be listed.
Line 21 — Signature of Lessor
Line 21 is the lessor’s signature line, used only on leased vehicles. When a lessee, lessor, and security interest holder all appear on the application, both the lessee and lessor must sign. The exception is when the lessor and the lienholder are the same party — then only the lessee signs.
To answer it, have the leasing company’s authorized representative sign here when the lease structure requires it. For example, ABC Leasing’s manager signs Line 21 while lessee Tom Becker signs Line 20. A standard purchase leaves this line blank.
The edge case is a lessor who is also the security interest holder, removing the need for the lessor’s signature. The common mistake is leaving Line 21 blank on a true lease, which voids the lease titling. The misconception is that the lessor never signs — on most leases shown with lessee and lessor, the lessor’s signature is required.
Back of the Form — Certifications and Specialty Plate Choice
The back of Form 735-226 holds certifications for assembled, reconstructed, or replica vehicles, recreational vehicle certifications, a commercial drug-and-alcohol testing certification for “T” plates, a military benefit request, and a specialty plate choice box. You complete only the sections that apply to your vehicle and situation. Most ordinary passenger-car filers complete few or none of these.
To answer it, check or sign only the back-section certifications that match your vehicle, such as the RV certification for a motorhome. For example, a buyer of a homemade trailer, Sam Ortega, completes the “Assembled” vehicle certification on the back. The Notes area at the bottom is for any extra remarks.
The edge case is a commercial truck with “T” plates, which requires the drug-and-alcohol testing certification under Chapter L. The common mistake is ignoring a required back-page certification, which holds a salvage or assembled title. The misconception is that the back page is optional for everyone — for special vehicle types, it is mandatory.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
These three walkthroughs follow named people through Form 735-226 from start to finish. Each one shows the most common Oregon filing situations.
Scenario 1: Diego Ramos buys a used car from a private seller. Diego bought a 2018 Toyota Camry in Portland and financed it through his credit union.
| Form Section | What Diego Enters |
|---|---|
| Line 1 — VIN | 1HGCM82633A004352, GVWR box unchecked |
| Line 2 — Vehicle Description | 2018 Toyota Camry 4-door sedan |
| Line 3 — Motor Power | Checks Gas |
| Line 4 — Odometer / Date | 68,452 on 06/05/2026 |
| Line 5 — Owner Name / DOB | RAMOS, DIEGO, customer #, 09/12/1992 |
| Line 6–7 — Address / County | 512 NE Alberta St, Portland, OR 97211, Multnomah |
| Line 13–14 — Lienholder | Oregon Community Credit Union and its address |
| Line 20 — Signature | Diego Ramos, dated 06/05/2026 |
Scenario 2: Priya Natarajan moves to Oregon with a California title. Priya relocated from San Jose with a 2021 plug-in hybrid and needs a VIN inspection before titling.
| Form Section | What Priya Enters |
|---|---|
| Line 1 — VIN | 5YJ3E1EA7MF000123, verified at VIN inspection |
| Line 2 — Vehicle Description | 2021 Toyota Prius Prime 4-door |
| Line 3 — Motor Power | Checks Plug-in Hybrid |
| Line 4 — Odometer / Date | 31,200 on 06/04/2026 |
| Line 5 — Owner Name / DOB | NATARAJAN, PRIYA, customer #, 11/30/1990 |
| Line 6–7 — Address / County | 88 W 11th Ave, Eugene, OR 97401, Lane |
| Line 12 — Survivorship | NO (single owner) |
| Line 20 — Signature | Priya Natarajan, dated 06/05/2026 |
Scenario 3: Maria Lopez receives a car as a family gift. Maria’s parents gave her a paid-off 2015 Honda CR-V, and she and her husband want survivorship.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Line 1 — VIN | 2HKRM4H75FH600789 |
| Line 2 — Vehicle Description | 2015 Honda CR-V 4-door SUV |
| Line 4 — Odometer / Date | 96,310 on 06/02/2026 |
| Line 5 — Owner Name / DOB | LOPEZ, MARIA ELENA, customer #, 03/14/1985 |
| Line 8 — Joint Owner | LOPEZ, CARLOS ANTONIO, customer #, 07/22/1983 |
| Line 12 — Survivorship | YES |
| Line 13 — Lienholder | Left blank (no loan) |
| Line 20 — Signature | Maria Lopez, dated 06/05/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
You can file Form 735-226 in person at a DMV office or by mail, and your supporting documents and fees must travel with it. The official Oregon DMV titling page explains both channels, and the choice often comes down to whether you need a same-day VIN inspection.
In person at a DMV field office. Bring the signed form, the original title or ownership document, your ID, and payment. Most offices accept cash, check, money order, and debit or credit cards (a card surcharge may apply). The clerk can perform the $9 VIN inspection on site for out-of-state vehicles, and you walk out with proof of filing and temporary tags if needed. Keep the receipt the clerk hands you as your proof of filing.
By mail to Salem. Mail your signed form, the original title, and a check or money order to: Oregon DMV, 1905 Lana Ave NE, Salem, OR 97314. Do not mail an application without the original title, because the instructions state it will be returned unprocessed. Send by trackable mail and keep a copy of the full packet plus your tracking number as proof of filing.
If a lender holds your title, you cannot mail it yourself. Send the lender the completed documents, fees, and the Security Interest Holder letter (Form 735-6603L), which asks them to forward everything to DMV. Processing typically takes a few weeks once DMV receives a complete packet.
To estimate your total before you file, use the official DMV fee calculator or call DMV at 503-945-5000. The total combines the title fee, the registration and plate fee, the $9 VIN inspection (if applicable), and any county fee.
What Happens After You File
Once DMV accepts a complete packet, it creates your title record, mails a registration card and plates (or stickers), and issues the paper title to whoever is entitled to hold it. If you have a loan, the handbook notes the title reflects the security interest holder, and the printed title is sent to the lender until the loan is paid. Processing usually takes a few weeks, though busy periods can run longer.
You will receive your registration before the physical title in many cases, which lets you drive legally while the title prints. Check that every detail — your name, the VIN, and any lienholder — matches what you submitted. If something is wrong, contact DMV quickly, because a title correction is a separate process.
The consequence of not reviewing your documents is real. An error left uncorrected can stall a future sale or refinance, and fixing it later costs more time than catching it now. A common misconception is that the title arrives instantly — in Oregon, plan for a multi-week wait, especially after the December 31, 2025 fee changes increased filing volume.
If you filed late, expect a late fee added to your bill. ORS 803.105 makes the late presentation a Class D traffic violation, but DMV can waive the late fee if you prove a good-faith effort or a reason beyond your control, as described on the Certification of Vehicle Date of Purchase (Form 735-6775).
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Form articles need a long mistake list because every line is its own trap. Avoid these errors:
- Mailing without the original title. DMV returns the entire packet unprocessed.
- Transposing a VIN digit. The number will not match the title, and the packet stalls.
- Leaving Line 4 odometer blank. The transfer is incomplete and cannot be titled.
- Using a nickname on Line 5. A name mismatch with your ID triggers a hold.
- Putting a P.O. Box on the residence line. DMV cannot verify your county, so it rejects it.
- Omitting the lienholder on Line 13. DMV may issue a clean title that breaches your loan terms.
- Forgetting to sign Line 20. An unsigned form is among the top reasons packets bounce.
- Skipping the VIN inspection for an out-of-state title. DMV cannot title a vehicle new to Oregon without it.
- Ignoring the DEQ certificate in Portland Metro or Medford. Registration is denied in those regions.
- Missing the 30-day filing window. A late fee of $25 (days 31–60) or $50 (after 60 days) is added.
- Checking the wrong motor power box. This can misstate your MPG-based registration surcharge.
- Leaving survivorship blank when you wanted it. Heirs may face probate to claim the vehicle.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Do download the current form from Oregon.gov. Outdated versions can be rejected.
- Do print your name exactly as it reads on your ID. DMV cross-checks its database.
- Do include the odometer reading on most vehicles. It is legally required and stops the transfer if blank.
- Do list every lienholder. A missing lender can violate your loan and cloud the title.
- Do file within 30 days of purchase. This avoids the late fee under ORS 803.105.
- Do keep proof of filing. A receipt or tracking number protects you if a packet is lost.
Don’t:
- Don’t mail the form without the original title. It comes back unprocessed.
- Don’t guess or round the odometer. False mileage is a federal offense.
- Don’t use a P.O. Box as your residence address. DMV needs a physical address for county.
- Don’t leave Line 20 unsigned. No signature means no processing.
- Don’t skip the DEQ test if you live in a required area. Registration will be denied.
- Don’t assume the bill of sale proves ownership. Only the issued title does.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
| Filing on Your Own | Filing With Help (Dealer or Service) |
|---|---|
| Saves money — no service fee, because you only pay DMV fees. | Costs extra — a service or dealer fee is added, but you save time. |
| Full control — you confirm every entry yourself, reducing surprises. | Expertise — pros know which back-page certifications apply, lowering error risk. |
| Direct contact — you handle any DMV questions firsthand. | Convenience — handles VIN inspections, DEQ, and lien letters for you. |
| Learning — you understand the title process for next time. | Speed — experienced filers avoid the common bounces that cost weeks. |
| Flexibility — you choose in-person or mail on your own schedule. | Complex cases — best for out-of-state, salvage, or leased vehicles. |
Form 735-226 vs. Related Oregon DMV Forms
| Form 735-226 (Application for Title and Registration) | Related Forms |
|---|---|
| Creates a new title and registers the vehicle. | Form 735-6603 gives step-by-step instructions for vehicles new to Oregon. |
| Used for most ownership transfers. | Form 735-6603L asks a lender to send your held title to DMV. |
| Requires odometer and lienholder details. | Form 735-7309 declares an exemption from the Low-Emission Vehicle rule. |
| Starts the 30-day filing clock. | Form 735-6775 certifies your purchase date to address a late fee. |
FAQs
Do I need a VIN inspection to title an out-of-state vehicle?
Yes. A $9 VIN inspection is required for any out-of-state, salvage, or out-of-country title, and DMV cannot title a vehicle new to Oregon without it.
Do I write my maiden name or current name on Line 5?
No. Write your name exactly as it appears on your current Oregon driver license or ID, because DMV matches Line 5 against its database and a mismatch causes a hold.
Do I have to fill in Line 4 if the seller signed the odometer on the title?
No. You leave Line 4 blank if the required odometer disclosure already appears on the title; you complete it only when no disclosure is present.
Do I list my lender on Line 13 if I financed the car?
Yes. You must list the security interest holder on Lines 13 and 14, or DMV may issue a title that violates your loan agreement.
Do both co-owners have to sign Line 20?
No. Only one registered owner must sign Line 20, though all owners must be listed on the form.
Do I have only 30 days to file after buying a vehicle?
Yes. Under ORS 803.105, you have 30 days from the sale, after which a late fee of $25 (days 31–60) or $50 (after 60 days) applies.
Do I need to check the survivorship box on Line 12 if I am married?
No. Marriage does not create survivorship automatically; co-owners must check YES on Line 12 for the vehicle to pass to the survivor.
Do I need a DEQ emissions certificate everywhere in Oregon?
No. DEQ testing is required only in the Portland Metro and Medford areas, and you submit the Certificate of Compliance with your application there.
Do title fees really change after December 31, 2025?
Yes. Under House Bill 3991, base title fees rose by $139 and registration by $42 per year for most passenger vehicles.
Do I put a P.O. Box on Line 6 as my residence?
No. The residence line on Line 6 must be a physical street address, though you may use a P.O. Box on the mailing line.
Do I need to file this form myself if my lender holds the title?
No. When a lender holds the title, you send them the documents, fees, and the Form 735-6603L letter, and they forward everything to DMV.
Do I sign Line 21 for a vehicle I bought outright?
No. Line 21 is the lessor’s signature for leased vehicles only; a standard purchase leaves it blank.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Oregon DMV Application for Replacement Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Oregon DMV Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Oregon DMV Vehicle Registration Renewal (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Alaska DMV Application for Certificate of Title (Form V1) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out District of Columbia DMV Application for Certificate of Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Vermont DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs