The South Carolina Odometer Disclosure Statement is the written record that states a vehicle’s exact mileage at the moment ownership changes hands, and both the seller and the buyer must sign it whenever a car is sold or transferred in the state. The seller declares the reading, the buyer acknowledges it, and the South Carolina Department of Motor Vehicles uses that number to print a mileage legend on the new title. A wrong number, a missing signature, or an altered figure can void the form, delay the title, and even expose the seller to federal odometer-fraud penalties.
Every year, hundreds of thousands of used cars change hands in South Carolina, and federal regulators report that odometer fraud still costs American buyers more than one billion dollars a year, which is why both South Carolina Code 56-19-240 and federal law treat this single line so seriously. This guide walks you through the form box by box, shows you three real-world examples, and explains the close cousin of this form, the Odometer Correction Request, so you can transfer your vehicle with confidence.
Here is what you will learn:
- 🚗 How to fill in every box on the Odometer Disclosure Statement the right way, the first time.
- 🧾 Which documents and numbers to gather before you open the form so you never stall midway.
- ✍️ How the seller’s certification and the buyer’s acknowledgment work, and why both signatures matter.
- ⚠️ The three mileage legends — Actual, Exceeds, and Not Actual — and when to check each box.
- 🛠️ How to fix a mileage error already printed on a title using the SCDMV Odometer Correction Request, Form TI-008.
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Odometer Disclosure Statement is a sworn record of a vehicle’s mileage at the time of sale or transfer. South Carolina builds this disclosure right into the back of the paper title and into the SCDMV Bill of Sale, Form 4031. When the title has no room left, when the title is lost, or when a lienholder holds the title, the seller uses a separate stand-alone Odometer Disclosure Statement instead. All three paths ask for the same core facts and the same two signatures.
The form exists because of the federal Truth in Mileage Act and its rules in 49 CFR Part 580, plus South Carolina’s own title law. The plain-English meaning is simple: the law forces the person selling a car to tell the truth about how many miles it has run. If a seller ignores this rule, the title can be held, the sale can be challenged, and the seller can face civil damages of $10,000 or three times the buyer’s loss, whichever is greater. For example, when Dwayne sold a pickup and left the mileage blank to hide heavy use, the buyer sued and recovered far more than the price of the truck. A common misconception is that this form is only “paperwork” — in truth, it is a sworn legal statement signed under penalty of perjury.
Anyone transferring ownership of a titled motor vehicle in South Carolina must complete it. That includes private sellers, car dealers, people gifting a vehicle to family, and someone acting under a Power of Attorney for Odometer Disclosure, Form 5047, when the title is lost or held by a lender. Federal rules exempt a few vehicles, which the next sections explain.
Vehicles That Are Exempt From Disclosure
Federal law does not require an odometer disclosure on every vehicle, and knowing the exemptions saves you from filling out a form you do not need. The rules in 49 CFR 580.17 list the main exceptions, and they relate directly to the age and weight of the vehicle.
A 2021 federal update changed the age rule that most people still get wrong. For model years 2011 and newer, the disclosure stays required for 20 years, so a 2011 vehicle now needs disclosure through 2031. Older vehicles from model year 2010 and earlier still follow the prior 10-year rule and are now exempt. Many South Carolina guides still say “10 years” across the board, but the current federal standard is the longer 20-year window for newer cars. The consequence of trusting the outdated 10-year line is that a seller skips a required disclosure, and the SCDMV then refuses to transfer the title until the form is completed.
Other exempt vehicles include those rated over 16,000 pounds gross vehicle weight, vehicles that are not self-propelled such as trailers, and brand-new vehicles before their first retail sale. For example, Reggie sells a 1998 box truck rated at 26,000 pounds and skips the form because the weight exemption applies. A common misconception is that classic cars are always exempt — age helps, but a heavy or commercial vehicle may be exempt for a different reason, and a newer collector car may still need the form.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gathering everything first means you fill the form once, sign it once, and never scratch out a box. Alterations and erasures void this form, so preparation protects you. Pull these items together before you write a single letter.
- The vehicle’s current odometer reading in whole miles. You need the exact number with no tenths because the form asks for “NO TENTHS,” and a sloppy reading can trigger a mileage discrepancy hold.
- The vehicle’s VIN, the full 17 characters. The SCDMV cross-checks the VIN against title records, and one wrong character routes your transfer to manual review.
- The year, make, model, and body style. These confirm the form matches the title, and a mismatch forces the clerk to reject the disclosure.
- The last license plate state and plate number. The federal form asks for this to tie the vehicle to its registration history.
- The seller’s full legal name and current address. The name must match the title, or the SCDMV cannot link the signature to the registered owner.
- The buyer’s full legal name and current address. The buyer’s acknowledgment is mandatory, and a missing buyer block makes the form incomplete.
- The date of the sale or transfer. This is the “Date of Certification,” and the wrong date can clash with the registration deadline.
- Government photo ID for both parties. Branch clerks and notaries verify identity, and without ID a notarized correction or POA disclosure stalls.
- The title itself, or a lost-title application if the title is missing. Without the title or a replacement plan, the SCDMV has nothing to transfer.
If any item is missing, the safest move is to stop and find it rather than guess, because a guessed VIN or rounded odometer reading can later look like fraud even when the seller meant no harm.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
South Carolina spreads odometer disclosure across a few official documents, and picking the right one depends on your situation. The cleanest source for all of them is the SCDMV Forms and Manuals page, where you can download each PDF for free.
Most private sellers never need a separate form at all, because the disclosure block sits on the back of the South Carolina paper title. You simply fill in the mileage, the legend box, and both signatures right on the title. When the title has no space, when it is lost, or when a lienholder holds it, you download the stand-alone federal Odometer Disclosure Statement and attach it to the transfer. Dealers often print this same statement for every deal as a backup record.
Two related forms live on the same SCDMV page. The Bill of Sale, Form 4031 carries an odometer line for sales without a clean title entry. The Odometer Correction Request, Form TI-008, revised 05/2024, fixes a wrong reading already printed on a title. Confirm the revision date in the lower corner of any PDF before you fill it out, because using an outdated version can cause the clerk to reject your paperwork.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the South Carolina Odometer Disclosure Statement Line by Line
Work top to bottom and use blue or black ink. The form opens with a warning that federal and state law require a true mileage statement and that a false statement may bring fines or imprisonment. Read that line, then begin.
1. Seller’s Name (Print) at the Top Certification Line
This first blank asks the seller to print the name of the person certifying the mileage. It sits inside the sentence that reads, “I, ______ (SELLER’S NAME, PRINT) state that the odometer now reads….”
Print your full legal name in capital letters exactly as it appears on the vehicle title, with no nicknames. For example, Maria Lopez writes MARIA LOPEZ in this blank. If you hold title jointly, the person who is actually transferring and signing should print here, and the other owner can sign the title separately.
A common mistake is printing a nickname or a business “doing business as” name that does not match the title, which breaks the chain between the certifier and the registered owner and forces a manual review. A frequent misconception is that this top line is just a label — it is the legal opening of your sworn statement, so the name here must match the signature near the bottom.
2. The Odometer Reading (No Tenths)
This blank asks how many miles the odometer shows right now. The form spells out “NO TENTHS,” which means whole miles only.
Write the exact number on the odometer with no commas, no decimals, and no tenths. If the dash reads 84,562.7 miles, you write 84562, dropping the .7 and ignoring the tenth. For a digital odometer, read the main mileage display, not a trip meter.
A common mistake is rounding up or down to a “clean” number like 85000, which creates a gap between the form and the actual dash and looks like tampering. The direct consequence is a possible “Warning — Not Actual Mileage” brand on the new title. A misconception is that small rounding does not matter — federal law expects the literal reading, so copy the dash exactly.
3. The Mileage Certification Boxes — Actual, Exceeds, or Not Actual
This is the heart of the form. By default, signing certifies the reading is the actual mileage. Two checkboxes let you change that certification when the plain reading is not the truth.
Leave both boxes unchecked if the odometer reading is true and complete. Check box (1) if the reading “reflects the amount of mileage in excess of its mechanical limits,” which happens when an old five-digit odometer has rolled over past 99,999 miles. Check box (2) if “the odometer reading is not the actual mileage,” which prints the loud “WARNING – ODOMETER DISCREPANCY” legend. For example, Tariq sells a 1994 sedan whose five-digit odometer reads 12,300 but has truly traveled 112,300 miles, so he checks box (1) for “Exceeds.”
A common mistake is checking nothing when the odometer is broken or was replaced, which falsely certifies actual mileage and is the exact lie the statute punishes. The consequence can be civil liability and a perjury exposure. A misconception is that “Not Actual” hurts resale so it is better to leave it blank — hiding a broken odometer is fraud, while an honest “Not Actual” brand is legal and protects you.
4. Vehicle Description — Make, Body Style, Year, Model
These blanks identify the exact vehicle so the mileage attaches to the right car. The form lines them up as MAKE, BODY STYLE, YEAR, and MODEL.
Copy each value straight from the title or registration. For example, Maria Lopez writes HONDA for make, 4DR SEDAN for body style, 2018 for year, and CIVIC for model. Use the same words the title uses so nothing conflicts.
A common mistake is guessing the body style or mixing trim names into the model field, which can disagree with SCDMV records and slow the transfer. A misconception is that the VIN alone is enough so these fields can be left blank — the form requires them, and an empty description box makes the statement incomplete.
5. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This box asks for the 17-character VIN that uniquely names the vehicle. It is the single most important identifier on the form.
Write all 17 characters in capital letters, double-checking every letter and number. For example, 1HGFC2F50JA123456. Read it from the door jamb sticker or the base of the windshield, not from memory, and confirm it matches the title.
A common mistake is confusing the letter O with the number 0 or the letter I with the number 1, which sends your title application into manual correction and adds weeks. A misconception is that any VIN on any sticker will do — only the official 17-character VIN that matches the title belongs here, because the SCDMV keys the entire record to this number.
6. Last Plate State and Last Plate Number
These two blanks record where the vehicle was last registered and under which plate. They link the car to its most recent registration history.
Write SC for South Carolina, or the correct two-letter code if the car last carried out-of-state plates, then enter the plate number exactly. For example, Maria Lopez writes SC and JKL 4567. If the plate is unknown or expired long ago, write the last plate you can verify rather than inventing one.
A common mistake is leaving these blank because the seller already removed the plate, which leaves a gap the clerk may question. A misconception is that the plate moves with the car — in South Carolina the plate stays with the seller, so this box records history only, not what the buyer receives.
7. Seller’s Signature, Printed Name, and Address Block
Here the seller signs under penalty of perjury and gives a full mailing address. The block asks for SELLER’S SIGNATURE, SELLER’S NAME, SELLER’S ADDRESS, CITY, STATE, and ZIP CODE.
Sign in ink, print the same legal name used at the top, then write your current residence or mailing address. For example, Maria Lopez signs, prints MARIA LOPEZ, and lists 214 Oak Street, Columbia, SC 29201. A P.O. Box is acceptable in the address line if that is where you receive mail, though a street address is preferred.
A common mistake is signing a name that differs from the printed top-line name, which voids the certification because the signer and certifier no longer match. A misconception is that the seller’s address is optional once the car is sold — the SCDMV may need to reach the seller about the mileage, so a complete, current address is required.
8. Buyer’s Acknowledgment — Signature, Name, and Address Block
This block is where the buyer acknowledges the mileage the seller certified. It mirrors the seller block with BUYER’S SIGNATURE, BUYER’S NAME, BUYER’S ADDRESS, CITY, STATE, and ZIP CODE under the line “ACKNOWLEDGING MILEAGE READING AS CERTIFIED.”
The buyer signs in ink, prints their full legal name, and lists their current address. For example, James Carter signs, prints JAMES CARTER, and writes 88 Pine Avenue, Greenville, SC 29601. Both parties should complete their blocks at the same time so the reading they agree on is identical.
A common mistake is the buyer skipping this block because “the seller already filled out the form,” which leaves the disclosure legally incomplete and unfit to transfer the title. A misconception is that the buyer’s signature is a mere formality — it is the buyer’s legal acknowledgment, and without it the SCDMV will not accept the document.
9. Date of Certification
The final blank records the date the transfer is certified. It appears as DATE OF CERTIFICATION near the buyer block.
Write the actual date the sale closes in MM/DD/YYYY format. For example, 06/05/2026. This date should match the date on the bill of sale and the title assignment so your records line up.
A common mistake is post-dating or back-dating this line to dodge a registration deadline, which creates conflicting dates across documents and can void the transfer. A misconception is that the date is just for filing — it sets the clock for the buyer’s 45-day window to title and register, so the true date protects both sides.
Filling Out the Odometer Correction Request (Form TI-008)
Sometimes a wrong reading is already printed on a South Carolina title, and the fix is not the disclosure form but the Odometer Correction Request, Form TI-008, revised 05/2024. This form asks the SCDMV to reissue the title with the corrected mileage. It is sworn under penalty of perjury, just like the disclosure.
The form first asks for the South Carolina title number and the odometer reading that was issued, with checkboxes for Actual, Exceeds, Exempt, or Not Actual. Next you enter the corrected mileage and check the right legend again. For example, Nadia writes that the title showed 15,000 miles marked Actual but should read 150,000 miles marked Exceeds, because the prior owner missed a rollover. You then explain in writing why the wrong reading was placed on the title, using extra sheets if needed.
The lower section collects the requester’s name in LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE order, residence and mailing addresses, daytime phone, the VIN, year, make, model, driver’s license or ID number, and customer number. You sign and date under the perjury declaration, and a DMV employee signs when accepting it. The form also lets you opt out of updating your voter registration address. A key consequence to know: the SCDMV will brand the title “WARNING – NOT ACTUAL MILEAGE” unless your documents prove the error to its satisfaction, and statements from prior owners alone are not enough to certify actual mileage.
To file a correction, you must include four things: the $15.00 title fee, the incorrect title, the completed Form TI-008, and supporting documents such as at least two repair or oil-change records from the last 12 months showing mileage. Documentation older than one year is not accepted. A common misconception is that you can fix any reading just by asking — without solid records, the title keeps a “Not Actual” warning, which is exactly why honest, well-documented requests succeed.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
These three named scenarios show how different sellers complete the disclosure based on their vehicle’s real condition.
Scenario 1 — Clean private sale, actual mileage. Maria Lopez sells her well-maintained 2018 Honda Civic to James Carter with a working odometer and a clean title.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Seller’s Name (top line) | MARIA LOPEZ |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 84562 |
| Mileage Certification Boxes | Both left unchecked (Actual) |
| Make / Body Style / Year / Model | HONDA / 4DR SEDAN / 2018 / CIVIC |
| VIN | 1HGFC2F50JA123456 |
| Last Plate State / Number | SC / JKL 4567 |
| Seller’s Signature & Address | Maria Lopez, 214 Oak Street, Columbia, SC 29201 |
| Buyer’s Acknowledgment | James Carter, 88 Pine Avenue, Greenville, SC 29601 |
| Date of Certification | 06/05/2026 |
Scenario 2 — Odometer exceeds mechanical limits. Tariq Hassan sells a 1994 Toyota Camry with a five-digit odometer that has rolled past 99,999 miles.
| Form Section | What Tariq Enters |
|---|---|
| Seller’s Name (top line) | TARIQ HASSAN |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 12300 |
| Mileage Certification Boxes | Box (1) checked — Exceeds mechanical limits |
| Make / Body Style / Year / Model | TOYOTA / 4DR SEDAN / 1994 / CAMRY |
| VIN | 4T1SK12E7RU321987 |
| Last Plate State / Number | SC / GHT 8821 |
| Seller’s Signature & Address | Tariq Hassan, 51 Maple Court, Florence, SC 29501 |
| Buyer’s Acknowledgment | Lena Brooks, 9 River Road, Sumter, SC 29150 |
| Date of Certification | 06/05/2026 |
Scenario 3 — Replaced odometer, not actual mileage. Reggie Daniels sells a 2015 Ford F-150 whose instrument cluster was swapped after a failure, so the dash no longer shows true miles.
| Form Section | What Reggie Enters |
|---|---|
| Seller’s Name (top line) | REGGIE DANIELS |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 31040 |
| Mileage Certification Boxes | Box (2) checked — Not Actual, Odometer Discrepancy |
| Make / Body Style / Year / Model | FORD / PICKUP / 2015 / F-150 |
| VIN | 1FTEW1EP5FFA45678 |
| Last Plate State / Number | SC / RPD 2290 |
| Seller’s Signature & Address | Reggie Daniels, 770 Birch Lane, Rock Hill, SC 29730 |
| Buyer’s Acknowledgment | Aisha Monroe, 12 Cedar Street, York, SC 29745 |
| Date of Certification | 06/05/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
The odometer disclosure does not get filed by itself online; it travels with the title transfer package to the SCDMV. You can submit that package in person or by mail, and the SCDMV title transfer process explains the broader steps.
For in-person filing, take the signed title or stand-alone disclosure, the bill of sale, your ID, and the title fee to any SCDMV branch office. The standard title fee is $15.00, and branches accept cash, check, money order, and most debit and credit cards. You walk out with a stamped receipt, and a new title is mailed within a few weeks, so keep that receipt as your proof of filing.
For filing by mail, send the completed documents and a check or money order to the headquarters title section at SCDMV, PO Box 1498, Blythewood, SC 29016-0024, Attention: Title Section. Mailed transfers take longer to process, often several weeks, so mail with tracking and keep copies of everything. There is no fax channel for title transfers, and the odometer disclosure portion itself cannot be completed through an online portal, so plan for in-person or mail. Always photocopy or photograph the fully signed form before you send it, because that copy is your only proof if the original is lost in transit.
What Happens After You File
Once the SCDMV receives your package, it verifies the VIN, the mileage, and both signatures, then prints the mileage legend onto the new title. The legend will read Actual, Exceeds, or Not Actual based on the box you checked. The buyer typically receives the new title in the mail within several weeks.
If the disclosure is clean, the transfer moves through normally and the buyer can register and plate the vehicle. The buyer in South Carolina generally has 45 days to title and register a purchased vehicle, and missing that window can bring late penalties. If you checked “Not Actual,” expect the title to carry a permanent “Warning — Not Actual Mileage” brand, which lowers resale value but keeps the record honest.
If something is wrong — a mismatched VIN, a missing buyer signature, or an altered figure — the SCDMV holds the transfer and contacts the parties to fix it. For example, James Carter had his title held because the seller scratched out and rewrote the mileage, and the pair had to complete a fresh stand-alone disclosure before the title could issue. When the error is already on an issued title, the parties turn to the Odometer Correction Request, Form TI-008, to set the record straight.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Each error below carries a direct, named consequence, so read them before you sign.
- Scratching out or erasing the mileage. Alterations void the form, and the SCDMV will reject the entire transfer.
- Rounding the odometer reading. A “clean” number that differs from the dash can trigger a Not Actual brand on the title.
- Writing tenths of a mile. The form requires whole miles, and tenths make the entry invalid.
- Leaving both certification boxes blank when the odometer is broken. This falsely certifies actual mileage and exposes the seller to fraud liability.
- Mistyping the VIN. One wrong character sends the title application into weeks of manual correction.
- Skipping the buyer’s acknowledgment block. Without the buyer’s signature, the disclosure is legally incomplete and cannot transfer the title.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name. A name that does not match the title breaks the certification chain.
- Back-dating the certification date. Conflicting dates across documents can void the transfer and miss the registration deadline.
- Signing in pencil. Pencil can be altered, so the SCDMV may refuse it and demand a new form.
- Forgetting to check “Exceeds” on a rolled-over five-digit odometer. The title then shows a falsely low mileage, which looks like fraud.
- Submitting a correction with no supporting records. Form TI-008 without documents leads to a permanent Not Actual warning on the title.
- Assuming an old vehicle is exempt. A model-year 2011 or newer car still needs disclosure for 20 years, and skipping it stalls the transfer.
Do’s and Don’ts
Quick rules that keep your disclosure clean and your transfer fast.
Do’s
- Do copy the odometer reading exactly as it appears, because the SCDMV expects the literal number.
- Do print names in capital letters that match the title, so the clerk can link signer to owner.
- Do complete both the seller and buyer blocks at the same sitting, so the agreed mileage matches.
- Do keep a photo or copy of the signed form, because it is your proof if the original is lost.
- Do check “Exceeds” or “Not Actual” honestly, since an honest brand is legal and protects you.
- Do confirm the form’s revision date, so an outdated PDF does not get rejected.
Don’ts
- Don’t erase or write over any entry, because alterations void the whole form.
- Don’t guess the VIN from memory, since one wrong character delays the title for weeks.
- Don’t leave the certification boxes blank on a broken odometer, because that is a false certification.
- Don’t sign before reading the perjury warning, since you are swearing the statement is true.
- Don’t back-date the certification, because mismatched dates can void the transfer.
- Don’t skip the form on a newer car thinking it is too old, since the 20-year rule likely still applies.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most private sellers handle this form alone, but a dealer or title service can help in tricky cases. Weigh both paths.
Pros of filing on your own
- You save money, because there is no service fee on top of the $15 title fee.
- You control accuracy, since you read your own odometer and copy your own VIN.
- You move on your own schedule, with no waiting on a third party.
- You learn the process, which helps with future vehicle sales.
- You keep your records private, sharing personal data only with the SCDMV.
Cons of filing on your own
- You carry the full risk if a box is wrong, which can delay the title.
- You may misread the Exceeds or Not Actual rules and brand the title wrongly.
- You handle lost-title or lienholder situations alone, which can be confusing.
- You spend time at the branch or mailing documents yourself.
- You have no professional to catch a VIN typo before submission.
FAQs
Do I need an odometer disclosure for a car that is more than 10 years old?
Yes. For model-year 2011 and newer vehicles, federal law now requires disclosure for 20 years, so the old 10-year cutoff no longer applies to most cars on the road today.
Do I write tenths of a mile in the odometer box?
No. The form says “NO TENTHS,” so you write only whole miles and drop any decimal the dash shows.
Do both the buyer and the seller have to sign the form?
Yes. The seller certifies the mileage and the buyer acknowledges it, and a missing buyer signature makes the disclosure legally incomplete.
Do I check a box if my odometer reads correctly?
No. If the reading is the true actual mileage, you leave both certification boxes blank, which by default certifies actual mileage.
Do I check box (1) “Exceeds” when my five-digit odometer has rolled over?
Yes. Box (1) is for mileage in excess of the odometer’s mechanical limits, which is exactly what a rolled-over five-digit odometer shows.
Do I have to print my name exactly as it is on the title?
Yes. Your printed name in the top certification line must match the title so the SCDMV can link the certifier to the registered owner.
Do I use the trip meter number for the odometer reading?
No. You use the main odometer display, never the trip meter, because the trip meter does not show total vehicle mileage.
Do I need to notarize the Odometer Disclosure Statement in South Carolina?
No. A standard sale disclosure is signed by both parties without a notary, though a Power of Attorney disclosure or a mileage correction may require notarization.
Do I fix a wrong mileage already on my title with this same form?
No. You use the Odometer Correction Request, Form TI-008, with the $15 fee, the incorrect title, and supporting mileage records.
Do I have to write the last plate number if I already removed the plate?
Yes. The last plate state and number record the vehicle’s registration history, so enter the last plate you can verify even after removal.
Do erasures or scratch-outs invalidate the form?
Yes. Alterations and erasures void the form, so a clean error means you start over on a fresh disclosure.
Do heavy trucks and trailers need an odometer disclosure?
No. Vehicles rated over 16,000 pounds gross weight and non-self-propelled units like trailers are exempt under federal rules.
Do I file the odometer disclosure online by itself?
No. The disclosure travels with the title transfer in person at an SCDMV branch or by mail to the Blythewood title section, not through a stand-alone online portal.
Do I have to use blue or black ink?
Yes. Use blue or black ink and never pencil, because pencil can be altered and the SCDMV may reject a penciled form.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Alabama Odometer Disclosure Statement (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Nevada DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out District of Columbia DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the North Dakota DOT Odometer Disclosure Statement (SFN 18773) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the West Virginia DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs