How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs

The South Dakota Odometer Disclosure Statement is the form a seller signs to certify a vehicle’s true mileage when ownership changes hands, and South Dakota law requires it for nearly every car and light truck sold in the state. The state’s official version is the Odometer Disclosure Form 1021 from the Department of Revenue, while the older standardized paper version many people still use is labeled DMV-611 (rev. 7-08). Both ask for the same core facts: the vehicle, the mileage reading, and the signatures of the buyer and the seller.

This form protects buyers from one of the oldest tricks in the used-car trade: rolling back the numbers on the dash. The federal government estimates that odometer fraud costs American car buyers more than $1 billion every year, and a single rolled-back odometer can add thousands of dollars to a car’s apparent value. Get one box wrong on this form, and your title transfer can stall at the county treasurer’s office, or worse, you could face fines and even jail time for a false statement.

Here is what you will learn in this guide:

• 📋 What the odometer disclosure form is, who must sign it, and the exact law behind it
• ✍️ How to fill out every box on the form, line by line, with real sample entries
• 🚗 Three full walkthroughs using real-world sale scenarios you can copy
• ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that get titles rejected and how to dodge each one
• ❓ Clear answers to the questions buyers and sellers ask most

What the Form Is and Who Must File It

The South Dakota Odometer Disclosure Statement is a sworn statement, signed under penalty of state law, that records a vehicle’s mileage at the moment it is sold or transferred. The seller fills it out and certifies the number is true, and the buyer signs to show they received it. The form exists because the federal Truth in Mileage Act of 1986 and its rules at 49 CFR Part 580 require an odometer disclosure on every change of ownership. South Dakota folds this duty into its own title law under SDCL 32-3-30.1, which says every title for a vehicle with an odometer must carry disclosure information.

Almost every private seller and licensed dealer must complete this form. If you sell your car to a neighbor, trade it at a dealership, or gift it to your child, you are the seller and you sign it. The buyer or recipient also signs, because the law requires both parties to acknowledge the reading. The South Dakota Department of Revenue’s Motor Vehicle Division receives the form, but you do not mail it to Pierre yourself; you submit it through your local county treasurer’s office attached to the title.

A few transfers are exempt from the mileage rule. Vehicles weighing more than 16,000 pounds, like large commercial trucks, do not need the disclosure. The same goes for vehicles that are old enough to age out of the disclosure window. Knowing whether your vehicle is covered is the first decision you make, because completing the form when it is not required wastes no one’s time, but skipping it when it is required can void the sale.

There is an important update many people miss. The form’s printed text still reads “less than ten (10) years old,” but a federal rule change took effect on January 1, 2021. Under the NHTSA odometer rule, disclosure is now required for 20 years for vehicles of model year 2011 and newer. So a 2011 or newer vehicle needs disclosure through model year 2030, while a 2010 or older vehicle followed the old 10-year rule and is now exempt.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

Gather everything before you open the form, because a missing detail forces you to stop, hunt for a number, and risk copying it wrong. The form is short, but every entry must match the title and the buyer’s information, so accuracy beats speed here. Below is the pre-filing checklist.

• The vehicle title. You need the exact year, make, and vehicle serial number (VIN) from the title; if these do not match, the county treasurer can reject the transfer.
• The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). This is the “Serial #” box on the form, and a single wrong digit ties the disclosure to the wrong car.
• The current title number. The “Title #” box ties the disclosure to the right title record, and leaving it blank can slow processing.
• The actual odometer reading. Walk to the car, read the dash, and write the whole number with no tenths; guessing from memory invites a discrepancy claim.
• The seller’s full legal name and address. This must match the name on the title so the county can confirm you are the lawful owner.
• The buyer’s full legal name and address. A wrong buyer name means the title transfers to the wrong person and must be redone.
• The date of sale. Both signatures need a date, and the date controls South Dakota’s 45-day filing clock.
• Knowledge of any odometer problem. If the odometer was replaced, broke, or rolled past its limit, you need to know which warning box to check before you sign.
• A working pen and a printer. South Dakota requires original ink signatures from both parties, so the final form cannot be a photocopy.

If any item is missing, the safest move is to pause and find it. A blank title number is fixable at the counter, but a wrong VIN or a wrong mileage figure can follow you for years, because the number you write becomes part of the permanent title history.

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

You can get the South Dakota Odometer Disclosure Statement in three reliable ways. The cleanest source is the South Dakota Department of Revenue, which hosts the fillable Odometer Disclosure Form 1021 on its online forms portal. You open it in your browser, type your answers into the boxes, and print it for signing. This is the current state version and the one county treasurers expect to see.

The second source is the older standardized paper form, DMV-611 (rev. 7-08), which still circulates widely and is available as a printable PDF you can fill in by hand. It carries the same boxes and the same legal weight, but remember its printed “10 years” language is outdated; follow the 20-year rule instead. Always check the revision code in the bottom-left corner so you know which version you hold.

The third path is your local county treasurer’s office. Treasurers keep paper copies at the counter, and many will hand you one when you come in to transfer the title. If you prefer to handle everything in person, you can pick up, fill out, and submit the form in a single visit. South Dakota titling runs through the county, not a central DMV branch, so the treasurer’s office is your real-world home base for this form.

Avoid grabbing a random form from an unofficial site that mixes up state requirements. Some generic templates leave off the “No Tenths” instruction or the two warning boxes, and a form missing those parts may not satisfy the law. When in doubt, use Form 1021 from the Department of Revenue or the DMV-611 PDF, both linked above.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the South Dakota Odometer Disclosure Statement Line by Line

The form fits on one page and breaks into clear sections. Work from the top down, and complete every box even if it looks obvious, because a skipped field is the top reason these forms bounce. Below is each box, in the order it appears, with how to answer it and what goes wrong if you don’t.

1. Vehicle: Year

The first box asks for the model year of the vehicle, not the year you bought it. You write the four-digit year exactly as it appears on the title, such as 2018. This number tells the county whether the 20-year disclosure window even applies, so it does double duty as both an identifier and a legal trigger.

To answer it, copy the year straight from the face of the title. For example, Carlos Mendez writes 2018 in the Year box because his Honda’s title lists 2018 as the model year. Do not use the date you took delivery or the year shown on the registration sticker, since those can differ from the model year.

A common edge case is a vehicle sold late in a calendar year as a “next year” model; trust the title, not the showroom badge. The most common mistake here is writing the purchase year instead of the model year, which can make the county think a covered vehicle is exempt and reject the disclosure. People also wrongly believe the year is just decoration; it is not, because it decides whether disclosure is legally required at all.

2. Vehicle: Make

This box asks who manufactured the vehicle, such as Ford, Toyota, or Chevrolet. You write the make exactly as it reads on the title, in plain block letters, like HONDA. The make pairs with the year and serial number to lock the disclosure to one specific vehicle.

Copy the make from the title rather than from the badge on the car, because trim names and brand names sometimes differ. For example, Carlos writes HONDA in the Make box, not “Civic,” since Civic is the model, not the make. Keep it simple and use the manufacturer’s name only.

An edge case shows up with vehicles sold under more than one brand, like a truck built by one company but badged by another; always follow the title. The common mistake is writing the model (Civic, F-150, Silverado) in the Make box, which creates a mismatch with the title record. Some sellers think make and model are the same thing, but the county reads the make as the manufacturer, so getting it wrong muddies the record.

3. Vehicle: Serial # (VIN)

The “Serial #” box is asking for the Vehicle Identification Number, the 17-character code that is unique to your car. You write every character exactly, with no spaces and no guesses, copying it letter by letter from the title, such as 1HGCV1F30JA123456. This is the single most important identifier on the entire form.

Read the VIN slowly off the title and double-check each character, since the number mixes letters and digits. For example, Carlos enters 1HGCV1F30JA123456 in the Serial # box, matching his title to the digit. It helps to read it out loud once and compare it again before signing.

The classic edge case is confusing the letter “O” with the number “0,” or the letter “I” with the number “1”; modern VINs never use the letters I, O, or Q, so any of those means you misread it. The most damaging mistake on the whole form is a wrong VIN, because it ties the mileage disclosure to a different vehicle and can void the transfer. People often assume any VIN on the dash or door will do, but the one on the title is the legal record, so use that.

4. Vehicle: Title

The “Title #” box asks for the number printed on the current South Dakota title document. You copy it exactly from the title, including any leading zeros, for example SD0123456789. This number links your disclosure to the correct title record in the state system.

Find the title number on the face of the title, usually near the top, and type it without spaces. For example, Carlos writes his title number in the Title # box straight from the document in his hand. If the digits are faded or hard to read, ask the county treasurer to confirm before you guess.

An edge case arises with out-of-state vehicles being titled in South Dakota for the first time, where you may not have a South Dakota title number yet; in that case the treasurer guides you on what to enter. The common mistake is leaving this box blank, which can slow processing while the county hunts for the matching record. Some sellers think the title number is the same as the VIN, but they are two different numbers serving two different purposes.

5. Odometer Reading

This is the heart of the form: the box asks for the exact mileage showing on the dashboard right now. You write the whole number you see, with no decimal and no tenths, such as 84,210. The instruction “(No Tenths)” sits right under this box for a reason, because the law cares about whole miles only.

To answer it, go to the vehicle, turn the key or power to the accessory position, read the odometer, and write that number. For example, Carlos reads 84,210 on the dash and writes 84210 in the box. If your odometer shows a tenths digit, drop it; do not round up or down, just leave it off.

A frequent edge case is a digital odometer that briefly shows a different screen at startup; wait for the main mileage display before reading. The most common mistake is including the tenths, like writing 84,210.6, which violates the form’s own rule and can prompt the county to question the entry. A widespread misconception is that “close enough” works; it does not, because this number becomes the official mileage on the title and a buyer can later claim fraud if it is off.

6. Miles or Kilometers Checkbox

After the reading, the form asks you to check one box: miles or kilometers. You mark the unit your odometer actually uses, almost always miles for U.S. vehicles. This tells the reader whether 84,210 means miles or a much shorter distance in kilometers.

Check the box that matches the label on your dash, then move on. For example, Carlos checks the “miles” box because his Honda’s odometer reads in miles. Look at the small “MILES” or “km” text near the odometer if you are unsure.

The edge case is a vehicle imported from a country that uses kilometers, such as some Canadian-market cars; those read in kilometers and you must check that box. The common mistake is leaving both boxes empty, which makes the reading ambiguous and can trigger a follow-up from the county. Some sellers assume miles is automatic and skip the box, but the form requires you to mark it, so check one every time.

7. Warning Box: Exceeds Odometer’s Mechanical Limits

The form lists two warning statements, and the first asks whether the stated mileage has rolled past what the odometer can physically show. You check this box only if the true mileage is higher than the number on a low-digit odometer that has “turned over,” for example an old five-digit unit that has passed 99,999 miles. If your reading is the true mileage, you leave this box blank.

To answer it, decide before signing whether the odometer has maxed out and started over. For example, if Carlos’s odometer is a five-digit unit reading 12,345 but the car has truly traveled 112,345 miles, he checks “Exceeds Odometer’s Mechanical Limits.” Most modern six- or seven-digit odometers never hit this case.

The edge case is older vehicles with mechanical odometers that lack enough digits for high mileage. The common mistake is checking this box by accident on a normal car, which falsely flags the title and lowers resale value. A frequent misconception is that this box means the odometer is broken; it does not, because it simply means the number rolled past the device’s maximum and the real mileage is higher.

8. Warning Box: Is Not Actual Mileage – Odometer Discrepancy

The second warning statement asks whether the reading is not the vehicle’s true mileage for any other reason, such as a broken, replaced, or tampered odometer. You check this box if you cannot certify the number is accurate, which legally brands the title as “Not Actual Mileage.” If the reading is honest and complete, you leave it blank.

To answer it, be honest about the odometer’s history before you sign. For example, if Janet replaced a dead instrument cluster on her truck and the new odometer started at zero, she checks “Is not actual mileage – Warning – Odometer Discrepancy.” This is the right and legal move even though it lowers the vehicle’s value.

The edge case is a repaired or swapped cluster where the mileage reset; the law still wants disclosure even when the reset was innocent. The most serious mistake is leaving this box blank when you know the mileage is wrong, because that is a false statement that can bring fines or jail under federal and state law. A common misconception is that a “Not Actual Mileage” brand ruins a car forever; it follows the title, yes, but honesty here protects you from a fraud claim that is far worse.

9. Typed Name of Seller

This box asks for the printed, full legal name of the person selling the vehicle. You type or print it clearly in block letters, matching the owner name on the title, such as CARLOS MENDEZ. The county cross-checks this name against the title to confirm you have the right to sell.

Print your name exactly as it appears on the title, including a middle initial if the title shows one. For example, Carlos prints CARLOS A. MENDEZ because that is how the title reads. Do not use a nickname or an abbreviated name here.

The edge case is a vehicle owned by two people or by a business; both owners, or an authorized agent of the business, should be named. The common mistake is a name that does not match the title, which can stop the transfer until ownership is proven. Some sellers think a nickname is fine because everyone knows them; the county does not, so use the full legal name.

10. Typed Name of Purchaser

This box asks for the printed, full legal name of the person buying the vehicle. The buyer’s name goes here in clear block letters, exactly as the buyer wants it to appear on the new title, such as AISHA JOHNSON. This name determines who legally receives ownership.

Print the buyer’s full legal name as shown on a driver’s license or ID. For example, Aisha prints AISHA R. JOHNSON in the Purchaser box. Confirm the spelling with the buyer rather than guessing.

The edge case is two buyers or a married couple titling together; list both names so the title reflects joint ownership. The common mistake is a misspelled buyer name, which transfers the title to a slightly wrong identity and forces a correction later. A misconception is that the buyer can fix their own name after the fact for free; corrections take time and sometimes fees, so get it right the first time.

11. Signature of Seller and Date of Sale

The seller’s signature box, paired with a date of sale, is where you swear under penalty of South Dakota law that everything above is true. You sign in your own ink and write the sale date next to it, such as Carlos signs and writes 06/06/2026. This signature turns the form from a draft into a legal certification.

Sign exactly as you normally sign, then enter the date you and the buyer agreed to the sale in MM/DD/YYYY format. For example, Carlos signs the seller line and dates it 06/06/2026. The date you write starts the buyer’s 45-day clock to apply for title.

The edge case is a sale handled by power of attorney; federal odometer rules generally require the actual owner’s signature, not an agent’s, so check with the county first. The common mistake is signing without a date or photocopying a signed form, which the county rejects because original ink is required. Some sellers believe a digital or stamped signature counts; for the paper disclosure, it usually does not, so sign by hand.

12. Signature of Purchaser and Date of Sale

The buyer signs and dates a matching line to acknowledge they received the mileage disclosure. The buyer writes their signature in ink and adds the same sale date, for example Aisha signs and writes 06/06/2026. This signature shows the buyer accepted the stated mileage, which is the whole point of the law.

The buyer signs on their line and uses the same date the seller used. For example, Aisha signs the purchaser line and dates it 06/06/2026. The dates on both signatures should match because they reflect one transaction.

The edge case is a buyer who is a business; an authorized representative signs and may note their title. The common mistake is the buyer skipping their signature, which leaves the disclosure incomplete and can hold up the title transfer. A misconception is that only the seller needs to sign; the law requires both, so the buyer must sign too.

13. Seller’s and Purchaser’s Address, City, State, Zip

The bottom of the form collects full mailing addresses for both parties, split into street, city, state, and zip. You write each address completely, such as 123 Elm St, Sioux Falls, SD 57104. These addresses let the county contact either party and tie the people to the transaction.

Fill in the seller’s address on the left and the buyer’s address on the right, line by line. For example, Carlos writes 123 Elm St, Sioux Falls, SD 57104 as the seller, and Aisha writes 456 Oak Ave, Brookings, SD 57006 as the buyer. Use the address where each person actually receives mail.

The edge case is a P.O. Box; you can list it for mail, but the county may also want a physical address, so add both if asked. The common mistake is an incomplete address missing the zip or city, which can delay any follow-up notice. Some people think the address is optional filler; it is part of the record, so complete every line.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

The three scenarios below show how different sellers handle the same form. Each table walks one named person through the key boxes from top to bottom.

Scenario 1: Carlos sells a clean late-model car to Aisha. Carlos is selling his 2018 Honda Civic with an honest, working odometer. This is the most common case, where no warning box gets checked.

Form Box	What Carlos Enters
Year	2018
Make	HONDA
Serial # (VIN)	1HGCV1F30JA123456
Title #	SD0123456789
Odometer Reading	84210 (no tenths)
Miles / Kilometers	Miles checked
Warning boxes	Both left blank
Typed Name of Seller	CARLOS A. MENDEZ
Typed Name of Purchaser	AISHA R. JOHNSON
Seller signature and date	Signed, 06/06/2026

Scenario 2: Janet sells a truck with a replaced odometer to Marcus. Janet’s instrument cluster died and a shop installed a new one that reads far fewer miles than the truck has traveled. She must flag the discrepancy honestly.

Form Box	What Janet Enters
Year	2014
Make	FORD
Serial # (VIN)	1FTFW1ET5EFA98765
Title #	SD0987654321
Odometer Reading	15030 (reading on the new cluster)
Miles / Kilometers	Miles checked
“Is not actual mileage” box	Checked
Typed Name of Seller	JANET K. OLSON
Typed Name of Purchaser	MARCUS LEE
Seller signature and date	Signed, 06/06/2026

Scenario 3: David sells an old car with a rolled-over odometer to Priya. David’s 1999 sedan has a five-digit mechanical odometer that has passed 99,999 and started over. He checks the mechanical-limits box. Note that a 1999 model is past the disclosure window today, but David completes the form anyway to give Priya a clean record.

Form Box	What David Enters
Year	1999
Make	TOYOTA
Serial # (VIN)	4T1BG22K1XU567890
Title #	SD0456789123
Odometer Reading	12345 (dash shows five digits)
Miles / Kilometers	Miles checked
“Exceeds mechanical limits” box	Checked
Typed Name of Seller	DAVID R. SCHMIDT
Typed Name of Purchaser	PRIYA NAIR
Buyer signature and date	Signed, 06/06/2026

How to File the Completed Form

South Dakota does not have you mail the odometer disclosure to a central DMV. Instead, the completed form rides along with the title to your county treasurer, who forwards records to the Department of Revenue’s Motor Vehicle Division. Below is each channel available to you.

In person at the county treasurer’s office. This is the main channel. You bring the signed disclosure, the title, a completed Motor Vehicle and Boat Title Application (Form 1001), and your payment to your local county treasurer. The buyer applies for title and registration, pays the 4% motor vehicle excise tax plus a $10 title transfer fee, and accepted payment methods vary by county but usually include cash, check, and card. Processing happens at the counter, and you keep the yellow duplicate copy of the disclosure as your proof.

By mail to the county treasurer. Many counties let you mail the title, the signed disclosure, the application, and a check. Use the mailing address for your specific county, which the treasurer’s office will give you, since there is no single statewide mailing address for titles. Expect a few weeks for the new title to arrive by mail, and keep a copy of everything you send as your proof of filing.

At a DMV Now kiosk (renewals only). South Dakota’s self-service DMV Now kiosks handle registration renewals and plates, not original title transfers, so you cannot file a fresh odometer disclosure at a kiosk. They are still worth knowing about for later registration steps. For the disclosure itself, stick with the treasurer’s counter or mail.

Whatever channel you choose, remember the deadline: under South Dakota rules, the buyer has 45 days from the date of sale to apply for title and registration. Miss it, and interest of 1% (or $5, whichever is greater) plus a penalty of up to 10% of the tax starts adding up, along with title late fees of $1 per week.

What Happens After You File

Once the county treasurer processes the transfer, the odometer reading you wrote becomes a permanent part of the vehicle’s title history. The state issues a new title in the buyer’s name, and if you checked a warning box, that brand (“Exceeds Mechanical Limits” or “Not Actual Mileage”) carries forward onto the new title. This is why honesty on the form matters long after the sale closes.

Because South Dakota has been an Electronic Lien and Title state since 2012, a vehicle with a loan keeps an electronic title until the lender releases the lien, while a paid-off vehicle gets a paper title mailed out. The buyer should watch for the new title to arrive and check that the mileage and names printed on it match what was on the disclosure. Any error spotted now is far easier to fix than one found years later.

The seller’s job is mostly done after signing, but you should keep your duplicate copy of the disclosure in a safe place. If a dispute ever arises about the mileage, that signed copy is your evidence that you disclosed the number honestly on the date of sale. Sellers should also file a Report of Sale (Form 1024) so the state knows the car is no longer their responsibility.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form

Small slips on this one-page form cause big headaches. Here are the errors that trip people up most, and what each one costs you.

• Writing the tenths in the odometer box: this breaks the form’s “No Tenths” rule and can make the county question the entry.
• Copying the VIN with a wrong character: this ties the disclosure to the wrong vehicle and can void the transfer.
• Leaving the Title # box blank: this slows processing while the county searches for the matching title record.
• Forgetting to check miles or kilometers: this makes the mileage ambiguous and may trigger a follow-up.
• Using a nickname instead of your legal name: this creates a mismatch with the title and can stall the sale.
• Misspelling the buyer’s name: this transfers the title to a slightly wrong identity and forces a paid correction.
• Photocopying a signed form: South Dakota requires original ink signatures, so a copy gets rejected.
• Leaving out the date of sale: this makes the certification incomplete and clouds the 45-day filing clock.
• Skipping the buyer’s signature: this leaves the disclosure unfinished and holds up the title transfer.
• Checking a warning box by mistake: this falsely brands a clean title and drops the vehicle’s resale value.
• Hiding a known odometer problem: this is a false statement that can bring federal fines or jail.
• Treating a 2011-or-newer car as exempt under the old 10-year rule: this skips a legally required disclosure under the 20-year rule.

Do’s and Don’ts

A quick rule set to keep you on the safe side of the form and the law.

Do: – Do read the actual dashboard number in person, because the mileage you write becomes the legal record. – Do copy the VIN and title number straight from the title, since matching beats memory. – Do check a warning box when you know the mileage is off, because honesty shields you from fraud claims. – Do use original ink signatures from both parties, as the county rejects photocopies. – Do keep your duplicate copy, because it is your proof if a dispute ever starts. – Do follow the 20-year rule for 2011-and-newer vehicles, even though the form says “10 years.”

Don’t: – Don’t round or add tenths to the mileage, because the form demands a whole number only. – Don’t sign a form with blanks, since a single empty box can bounce the transfer. – Don’t use a power of attorney to sign the disclosure without checking, because federal rules usually require the owner’s own signature. – Don’t guess the buyer’s name spelling, as a wrong name forces a correction. – Don’t reuse an old disclosure from a prior sale, because each transfer needs its own fresh form. – Don’t wait past 45 days to file, because interest and penalties start stacking up.

Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help

Many South Dakotans handle a private sale’s paperwork themselves, but some prefer a dealer or title service. Here is how the two paths compare.

Pros of filing on your own: – You save money, because you avoid any service or dealer documentation fee. – You control the timing, since you go to the treasurer when it suits you. – You learn the process, which makes your next sale faster and easier. – You keep your information private, because no third party handles your records. – You catch your own errors, since you read every box yourself before signing.

Cons of filing on your own (and pros of help): – You bear the risk of a mistake, because a wrong VIN or missed box is on you to fix. – You spend the time, since you must visit or mail the county yourself. – A dealer or title service knows the current rules, including the 20-year update many forms still get wrong. – A professional can spot a discrepancy issue before it becomes a fraud problem. – A service handles multi-owner or out-of-state quirks that confuse first-time filers.

FAQs

Do I write the model year or the year I bought the car in the Year box? No. Write the model year exactly as it appears on the title, not the year you purchased the vehicle, because the model year decides whether the disclosure is legally required.

Do I include the tenths digit in the odometer reading? No. The form says “No Tenths,” so write only the whole number you see on the dash; including a decimal violates the form’s own rule and can cause the county to question it.

Do I put the VIN or the title number in the Serial # box? No. The Serial # box wants the 17-character VIN, while the separate Title # box wants the title document number; they are two different numbers.

Do both the buyer and the seller have to sign the form? Yes. South Dakota and federal law require the seller to certify the mileage and the buyer to acknowledge it, so both signatures are mandatory.

Do I still need this form for a car that is 12 years old? Yes. If the vehicle is model year 2011 or newer, the 20-year federal rule applies, so a 12-year-old 2014 model still needs disclosure even though the form prints “10 years.”

Do I have to disclose mileage on a vehicle over 16,000 pounds? No. Vehicles weighing more than 16,000 pounds are exempt from the odometer disclosure requirement under both federal and South Dakota rules.

Do I check a warning box if my odometer was replaced and reads low? Yes. Check the “Is not actual mileage – Odometer Discrepancy” box, because the new odometer no longer reflects the vehicle’s true total mileage.

Do I mail this form to the DMV in Pierre myself? No. You submit it through your local county treasurer’s office attached to the title, and the county forwards the record to the Motor Vehicle Division.

Do I need original signatures, or can I use a photocopy? No. A photocopy is not accepted; South Dakota requires original ink signatures from both the seller and the buyer on the disclosure.

Do I have to use my full legal name, or is a nickname okay? No. Use your full legal name exactly as it appears on the title, because a nickname creates a mismatch that can stall the transfer.

Do I have a deadline to file after the sale? Yes. The buyer has 45 days from the date of sale to apply for title and registration, after which interest and penalties begin to accrue.

Do I check the kilometers box if my odometer reads in miles? No. Check the “miles” box for a standard U.S. vehicle; only check “kilometers” if your odometer is actually calibrated in kilometers, such as some imported cars.

Do I need a separate form for each vehicle I sell? Yes. Each vehicle transfer requires its own odometer disclosure, because the form ties one specific VIN and mileage to one specific sale.

Do gifts between family members still need an odometer disclosure? Yes. A transfer of ownership triggers the disclosure even when no money changes hands, so a car gifted to a child still needs the signed form.