How to Fill Out the Texas Abandoned Vehicle Title (VTR-71-2) + FAQs

Texas Form VTR-71-2 is the Application for Authority to Dispose of a Motor Vehicle to a Demolisher, and it is the form you file with the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles (TxDMV) when you need legal permission to send an abandoned, junked, or unwanted vehicle to a wrecking yard for permanent destruction. The current version is Rev 11/20, so check that the bottom-left corner of your form reads VTR-71-2 Rev 11/20 before you start.

Here is the single most important truth about this form, and it surprises most people: VTR-71-2 does not give you a regular Texas title you can register, drive, or sell. It issues a Certificate of Authority (COA), which only lets you hand the vehicle to a demolisher for crushing, wrecking, or dismantling. If your goal is to drive or sell the car, you need a bonded title instead, and using this form by mistake means you can never make that car road-legal. The process can take up to 30 days, and the application fee is just $2.00, so the cost is low but the consequences of choosing the wrong path are high.

Here is what you will learn in this guide:

• 🚗 What the Certificate of Authority does and why it is not a drivable title
• 📋 The exact documents and information you need before you open the form
• ✍️ A line-by-line walkthrough of every box, with sample entries you can copy
• 🏚️ Three real-world scenarios showing property owners and buyers filing start to finish
• ⚠️ The common mistakes that get applications rejected and how to dodge them

What the Form Is and Who Must File It

Form VTR-71-2 is a request to the TxDMV Vehicle Titles and Registration (VTR) Division for the legal right to dispose of a motor vehicle by sending it to a demolisher. The form exists because Texas law will not let a scrap yard or crusher destroy a titled vehicle without proof that someone has the authority to give it up. The agency that receives the form is the TxDMV VTR Division in Austin, and the legal backbone comes from the Texas Transportation Code rules on abandoned motor vehicles. Without this form, a demolisher who crushes your car could face liability, which is why every reputable scrap yard asks for a Certificate of Authority first.

You must file this form if you fall into one of three groups, and the form lists each one as a checkbox reason. The first group is the recorded owner of the vehicle, or a person who has had ownership transferred to them. The second group is a person who possesses an abandoned vehicle, such as a tow operator or storage facility holding an unclaimed car. The third group is a person who owns the property where an abandoned vehicle now sits, like a homeowner with a junk car dumped in the yard.

A vehicle counts as “abandoned” under specific rules printed on Page 2 of the form. It is abandoned if it is inoperable, more than five years old, and left on public property for over 48 hours; if it stays illegally on public property over 48 hours; or if it sits on private property without the owner’s consent for more than 48 hours. Other triggers include vehicles left on highway rights-of-way for 48 hours, turnpike rights-of-way for 24 hours, or impounded commercial vehicles with unpaid penalties. The penalty for guessing wrong here is real: certify a vehicle as abandoned when it does not meet these tests, and you have signed a false statement on a state document.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

The certification block on VTR-71-2 warns that falsifying information is a third degree felony, so gather your facts and paperwork before you write a single letter. Missing even one item can stall your application for weeks, because the agency cannot issue a Certificate of Authority on an incomplete file. Use this pre-filing checklist to collect everything first.

• The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You need the full 17-character VIN (or the correct number for older vehicles) because the TxDMV matches it against its records, and a wrong digit can tie your application to the wrong car.
• The Texas Certificate of Title, if you have it. Owners of Texas-titled vehicles must surrender the title unless it is lost or the department can verify ownership in its system, so dig it out now to avoid a hold.
• An out-of-state title, if the car was last titled elsewhere. You must submit the foreign title in your name, and without it the agency cannot confirm you have any right to the vehicle.
• Ownership-transfer evidence, if you are not the recorded owner. A bill of sale, manufacturer’s certificate of origin, registration receipt, or law enforcement auction sales receipt proves the car passed to you, and the application fails without it.
• The license plate state and number, if any. This helps the agency identify the vehicle, and leaving it blank when a plate exists slows the match.
• The odometer reading. You need the mileage with no tenths, because the form requires it for vehicles subject to odometer disclosure, and a blank reading can bounce the form back.
• The exact physical location of the vehicle. The agency wants to know where the car sits, and a vague answer raises questions about whether it is truly abandoned.
• A $2.00 check or money order. It must be payable to the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles, since cash, credit cards, debit cards, and temporary checks are all rejected and the form will not process without payment.
• Proof of property ownership, if you are filing as the landowner. Documents tying you to the address where the car sits support your “abandoned on my property” claim and head off a rejection.

If you cannot find a document, contact the VTR Division at (512) 465-5659, Option 1, before mailing, because sending an incomplete packet wastes both your $2.00 and up to a month of waiting.

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

You get the official, current Form VTR-71-2 directly from the TxDMV forms library, where it is posted as a free, fillable PDF. Always download it from the agency rather than a third-party site, because outdated copies from places like document-sharing pages may not match the Rev 11/20 version the agency expects. You can also browse the full TxDMV forms page to confirm you have the right document among the related VTR-71 series.

The form is two pages. Page 1 holds all the fields you fill in, and Page 2 is reference information that explains the abandoned-vehicle rules, the notification process, and how to identify the correct VIN. You should read Page 2 first, even though you write nothing on it, because it defines the legal terms you certify on Page 1. Print Page 1 single-sided, fill it in with black ink or type it before printing, and keep Page 2 with your records.

There is no online portal for submitting VTR-71-2 and no e-file option, which trips up many filers who expect a modern web process. The form is mail-only to the Austin address, and you cannot walk it into a county tax office for same-day issuance the way you can with some title work. If you have questions while accessing or completing the form, the VTR Division phone line at (512) 465-5659, Option 1, is the official help channel.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form VTR-71-2 Line by Line

Page 1 of the form is grouped into four blocks: Vehicle Information, Applicant Information, Statement of Facts for Application, and the Certification signature block. Fill them in order, top to bottom, and use the exact field labels printed on the form. Below, every field gets its own walkthrough so you know what to write, what it looks like, and what goes wrong if you slip.

1. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This field asks for the unique number that identifies your specific vehicle. Write the full VIN exactly as it appears on the dashboard plate, door jamb sticker, or title, using all capital letters and no spaces or dashes. For example, Maria Lopez enters 1FTRW08L43KB12345 for her late father’s pickup. For older or assembled vehicles, the identifying number may be on the frame or motor instead of the body, and Page 2 points you to the Assembled and Reconstructed Vehicle Manual, Section 2.3, to confirm which number counts. The most common mistake is transposing two characters, such as writing a 0 for the letter O, which makes the TxDMV match the wrong record and delays your COA. Many people wrongly believe the VIN on their insurance card is always correct, but a typo there carries straight onto the form, so copy the number from the metal VIN plate itself.

2. Year

This field asks for the model year of the vehicle, not the year you bought it. Enter the four-digit year, such as 2003, taken from the title or the VIN decode. For a homemade or assembled trailer with no clear year, use the year shown on any prior registration or ownership document. The common mistake is entering the purchase year instead of the model year, which creates a mismatch with the VIN the agency decodes. Some filers think the year is optional for a junk car headed to the crusher, but every vehicle field helps the agency confirm it is destroying the right vehicle, so fill it in.

3. Make

This field asks for the manufacturer of the vehicle. Write the make as it appears on the title or registration, such as FORD, CHEV, or TOYT, using the standard short form when the box is small. For Carlos Reyes, who has a wrecked sedan in his driveway, the entry is simply HOND. The common mistake is writing a model name like Civic in the make box, which belongs in the model field instead and confuses the record match. People sometimes assume the make does not matter for a car that will be crushed, but the agency cross-checks make, year, and VIN together, so an off entry can trigger a manual review that adds days.

4. Body Style

This field asks for the general shape or type of the vehicle. Use the standard abbreviation, such as 4D for a four-door sedan, PK for a pickup, 2D for a coupe, or TR for a trailer. Maria Lopez writes PK for her father’s pickup truck. If you are unsure of the code, write the plain word like PICKUP rather than guessing wrong. The common mistake is leaving this blank because it seems minor, which leaves the agency with an incomplete description and can prompt a follow-up letter. A frequent misconception is that body style and model are the same thing, but body style describes the shape while model names the specific product line, so keep them separate.

5. Model

This field asks for the specific model name of the vehicle. Write the model as shown on the title, such as F-150, CIVIC, or SILVERADO. Carlos Reyes enters CIVIC here to pair with his HOND make entry. If the model is unknown for an older or assembled vehicle, write UNKNOWN rather than leaving it empty. The common mistake is mixing up make and model, like writing HONDA in both boxes, which weakens the vehicle description. Some people believe the model is unimportant once a car is scrap, but a complete description protects you by proving you applied on the exact vehicle you possess.

6. License Plate State and Number (if any)

This field asks for the registration plate currently on the vehicle and the state that issued it. Enter the state abbreviation and the plate characters, such as TX ABC1234, in capital letters with no extra spaces. If the vehicle has no plate, which is common for long-abandoned cars, leave it blank or write NONE, since the label itself says “if any.” Janet Powell, a property owner, writes NONE because the dumped car on her lot lost its plates years ago. The common mistake is inventing or guessing a plate number, which creates a false record entry, so only write what you can actually read on the car. People often think a missing plate blocks the application, but it does not; the VIN is the primary identifier.

7. Odometer Reading (no tenths)

This field asks for the vehicle’s mileage as a whole number with no decimal. Read the odometer and write the figure without tenths, such as 148205. If the vehicle is subject to odometer disclosure but you cannot read the meter, enter 1 and check the Not Actual box. If the vehicle is exempt from disclosure, such as a vehicle 20 years old or older, mark the Exempt box instead of writing a number. The three checkboxes under this field are Not Actual, Exceeds Mechanical Limits, and Exempt, and you must check one if the plain mileage does not apply. The common mistake is leaving the reading blank on a disclosure-required vehicle, which makes the form incomplete; the related misconception is that crushed cars never need an odometer, but the law still requires the reading or the correct checkbox.

8. Physical Location of the Vehicle

This field asks where the vehicle is right now. Write the full street address, city, and any lot or space detail where the car sits, such as 1420 Pecan St, Lot B, San Antonio, TX 78201. For Janet Powell, the entry is the address of her rental property where the car was dumped. If the vehicle is at a storage facility, list the facility’s address. The common mistake is writing your mailing address instead of the car’s true location, which contradicts an abandoned-on-my-property claim and invites a rejection. People sometimes think this can match the applicant address by default, but the agency uses location to test whether the abandonment story holds together, so be precise.

9. Applicant First Name (or Entity Name)

This field asks for your legal first name, or your business name if a company is filing. Write your first name as it appears on your ID, such as Carlos, or for a business, the full entity name like Lone Star Towing LLC. An entity filing puts its whole name in this box and leaves the middle, last, and suffix boxes blank. The common mistake is using a nickname like Carl instead of the legal name, which can mismatch the certification signature you sign below. A common misconception is that a business can sign personally; if an entity applies, the entity name must appear here and an authorized person signs on its behalf.

10. Applicant Middle Name, Last Name, and Suffix (if any)

These fields ask for the rest of your legal name. Enter your middle name (or initial), your last name, and any suffix such as Jr or III in the matching boxes; for example, Carlos / M / Reyes with no suffix. If you have no middle name, leave that box blank rather than writing N/A. The common mistake is putting the suffix in the last-name box, like writing Reyes Jr together, which can scramble how the agency records your name on the COA. People often think the suffix is optional cosmetic detail, but on a legal certification your name should match your ID exactly, so include the suffix if your ID shows one.

11. Applicant Address, City, State, and Zip

This block asks for your mailing address, where the agency will send the Certificate of Authority. Write your current mailing address, city, state, and ZIP code, such as 2207 Oak Ln, San Antonio, TX 78216. If you use a P.O. Box, that is fine here because this is your mail address, not the vehicle location. Maria Lopez lists her home address so the COA reaches her. The common mistake is entering an old address, which means the COA gets mailed somewhere you no longer receive mail and you lose the document. A frequent misconception is that this must match the vehicle location; it does not, and confusing the two is a top error.

12. Statement of Facts: Reason Checkboxes

This section asks you to mark the one legal reason you can apply, and to add facts if needed. Check exactly one of the three boxes: that you are the recorded owner or had ownership transferred to you; that the vehicle is abandoned and in your possession; or that the vehicle is abandoned and located on property you own. Janet Powell checks the third box and writes a short statement: Vehicle dumped on my rental lot more than 48 hours ago without my consent. The common mistake is checking more than one box or none at all, which makes your legal basis unclear and stalls the file. The misconception here is that “abandoned” means any old car; it only counts if it meets the Page 2 timing and condition tests, so match your checkbox to those rules.

13. Certification, Signature, Printed Name, and Date

This final block is your sworn statement that everything above is true. Sign your name, print the same name beneath it, and write the date in MM/DD/YYYY format, such as 03/14/2026. By signing, you certify the facts are true, that you have the legal right to apply, and that you understand the vehicle can only go to a demolisher and can never be repaired, rebuilt, retitled, or made operable. The common mistake is leaving the form unsigned or undated, which voids the application because an unsworn form has no legal effect. The dangerous misconception is that this is a routine signature; it is a certification, and the form states that falsifying information is a third degree felony, so never sign for facts you cannot back up.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

Below are three of the most common situations, each following one named filer through the key fields of Form VTR-71-2. Use them as templates for your own facts.

Scenario 1: Janet Powell, a landowner with a car dumped on her property

Form Section	What Janet Enters
VIN	JT2BF22K1W0123456
Year / Make / Model	1998 / TOYT / CAMRY
Body Style	4D
License Plate State and Number	NONE
Odometer Reading	1 with Not Actual checked
Physical Location of the Vehicle	1420 Pecan St, Lot B, San Antonio, TX 78201
Applicant Name	Janet / R / Powell
Statement of Facts Reason	Third box: abandoned vehicle on property she owns
Certification	Signs, prints Janet R Powell, dates 03/14/2026

Scenario 2: Carlos Reyes, who bought a junk car with no clear title

Form Section	What Carlos Enters
VIN	2HGFG12688H512345
Year / Make / Model	2008 / HOND / CIVIC
Body Style	2D
License Plate State and Number	TX XYZ7788
Odometer Reading	162540 (actual)
Physical Location of the Vehicle	2207 Oak Ln, San Antonio, TX 78216
Applicant Name	Carlos / M / Reyes
Statement of Facts Reason	First box: ownership transferred to him, bill of sale attached
Certification	Signs, prints Carlos M Reyes, dates 03/16/2026

Scenario 3: Lone Star Towing LLC, a storage facility holding an unclaimed vehicle

Form Section	What Lone Star Enters
VIN	1G1ZT54805F112233
Year / Make / Model	2005 / CHEV / MALIBU
Body Style	4D
License Plate State and Number	NONE
Odometer Reading	Exempt box checked (vehicle over 20 years from disclosure rule)
Physical Location of the Vehicle	900 Industrial Blvd, Houston, TX 77029
Applicant Name (Entity)	Lone Star Towing LLC
Statement of Facts Reason	Second box: abandoned vehicle in its possession
Certification	Authorized agent signs, prints name, dates 03/18/2026

How to File the Completed Form

Form VTR-71-2 has one filing channel: mail. There is no online portal, no fax option, and no in-person counter that issues the Certificate of Authority on the spot, which is unusual for vehicle paperwork and catches many filers off guard. Mail your completed Page 1, any required ownership documents, and the $2.00 fee to the TxDMV VTR Division at this exact address: Texas Department of Motor Vehicles, Vehicle Titles and Registration Division, ATTN: Title Control Systems, Austin, Texas 78779-0001.

The fee is $2.00 and must be a check or money order payable to the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles. The agency does not accept cash, credit cards, debit cards, or temporary checks, and the fee is non-refundable even if the vehicle is later claimed. Send the payment in the same envelope as the application, because a form without payment will not process.

Expected processing time is up to 30 days, driven by the required notice period explained on Page 2. Keep proof of what you sent by mailing through USPS Certified Mail with a return receipt, and photocopy your completed form, your documents, and your check number before sealing the envelope. That proof matters if the application is ever lost in transit, since you can show the date you mailed it. If you need to check status or report a problem, call the VTR Division at (512) 465-5659, Option 1.

What Happens After You File

Once the agency receives your application, the path depends on whether you are the recorded owner. If you are the owner or have clear ownership-transfer evidence, the agency can move toward issuing the Certificate of Authority without a waiting period for notice. If you applied on an abandoned vehicle and are not the recorded owner, the agency must first notify any owners and lienholders it can identify by First Class Mail.

When the TxDMV cannot find a record for the vehicle, it posts the notice on its public List of Abandoned Motor Vehicles webpage instead of mailing it. Either way, the owner or lienholder has 20 days from the date the notice is mailed or posted to claim the vehicle. If no one claims it, the agency issues the Certificate of Authority on the 21st day after the notice goes out, which is why the whole process can take up to 30 days from the date your application arrives.

If someone claims the vehicle after you file, your application stops. You must call the VTR Division at (512) 465-5659, Option 1, right away to prevent the COA from issuing if you learn the car was claimed, and remember the $2.00 fee is not refunded. Once you hold the Certificate of Authority, you may only deliver the vehicle to a licensed demolisher for permanent destruction; you cannot retitle, register, repair, or sell it as a running vehicle.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form

• Using VTR-71-2 to try to get a drivable title, when this form only authorizes destruction and locks the car out of ever being retitled.
• Entering the wrong VIN or transposing characters, which matches the wrong record and delays or voids your Certificate of Authority.
• Sending cash or a credit card number for the $2.00 fee, which the agency rejects and which stalls the entire application.
• Mailing the form without the $2.00 check or money order, which means the agency cannot process it at all.
• Checking more than one Statement of Facts reason box, which makes your legal basis unclear and triggers a manual hold.
• Leaving the Statement of Facts unmarked, which gives the agency no lawful reason to grant authority and stops the file.
• Writing your mailing address in the Physical Location field, which contradicts an abandoned-vehicle claim and invites rejection.
• Forgetting to surrender a Texas title you still hold, which the form requires and whose absence can pause processing.
• Signing without attaching ownership-transfer evidence when you are not the recorded owner, which leaves your authority unproven.
• Leaving the certification unsigned or undated, which voids the form because an unsworn application carries no legal weight.
• Certifying a vehicle as abandoned when it does not meet the 48-hour and condition tests, which can amount to a felony false statement.
• Downloading an outdated form from a third-party site instead of the current Rev 11/20 version, which may use wrong fields the agency no longer accepts.

Do’s and Don’ts

Do:

• Do confirm your form reads VTR-71-2 Rev 11/20, because filing an old version risks rejection.
• Do read Page 2 first, because it defines the abandoned-vehicle terms you certify on Page 1.
• Do copy the VIN from the metal VIN plate, because it is the agency’s primary way to match the vehicle.
• Do check exactly one Statement of Facts reason, because that single box is your legal basis to apply.
• Do mail by Certified Mail with return receipt, because it proves the date you filed if anything is lost.
• Do keep a full photocopy of your packet, because you may need it to resolve a dispute later.

Don’t:

• Don’t expect a drivable title, because the COA only allows disposal to a demolisher.
• Don’t send cash, a debit card, or a temporary check, because the agency rejects all of them.
• Don’t guess at a plate number, because inventing data creates a false record entry.
• Don’t sign for facts you cannot prove, because falsifying the form is a third degree felony.
• Don’t list your home address as the vehicle location, because it undercuts an abandonment claim.
• Don’t assume the $2.00 fee comes back if the car is claimed, because it is non-refundable.

Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help

Many filers can complete VTR-71-2 alone because it is short and the fee is tiny, but complex ownership situations sometimes justify professional help. Weigh the trade-offs below.

Filing on Your Own	Filing With Professional Help
Costs only the $2.00 fee, because there are no service charges to add.	Adds service fees, because a title service or attorney bills for time.
Gives you full control of the facts, because you know your own vehicle and timeline.	Reduces your error risk, because experts catch VIN, fee, and checkbox mistakes.
Works well for simple cases, because owner-and-junk-car filings are straightforward.	Helps with messy ownership, because pros handle missing titles and transfer gaps.
Teaches you the process, because doing it yourself builds know-how for next time.	Saves your time, because a service handles mailing, proof, and follow-up calls.
Avoids sharing private details, because no outside party sees your documents.	Eases stress for frustrated owners, because someone else manages the 30-day wait.

FAQs

Is VTR-71-2 the same as getting a regular Texas title?

No. It issues a Certificate of Authority that only lets you send the vehicle to a demolisher for destruction. It never produces a title you can register, drive, or sell.

Can I drive a vehicle after I get the Certificate of Authority?

No. The certification states the vehicle cannot be repaired, rebuilt, made operable, or retitled. You may only deliver it to a demolisher for permanent destruction.

Do I write my mailing address or the car’s location in the Physical Location box?

No, not your mailing address. The Physical Location field is for where the vehicle actually sits. Your mailing address goes in the separate Applicant Address block.

Should I leave the License Plate box blank if the car has no plate?

Yes. The label says “if any,” so write NONE or leave it blank. The VIN, not the plate, is the agency’s main identifier.

Do I have to fill in the odometer if the car is headed to the crusher?

Yes, if the vehicle is subject to odometer disclosure. Enter the mileage, or write 1 and check Not Actual, or check Exempt if it qualifies.

Can I check more than one Statement of Facts reason box?

No. Mark only the single reason that fits your situation. Checking more than one makes your legal basis unclear and can delay the application.

Is the $2.00 fee refundable if someone claims the vehicle?

No. The fee is non-refundable, even if an owner or lienholder claims the vehicle after you file and the certificate is never issued.

Can I pay the fee with a credit or debit card?

No. Only a check or money order payable to the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles is accepted. Cash, cards, and temporary checks are all rejected.

Can I file VTR-71-2 online or in person for same-day service?

No. The form is mail-only to the Austin VTR Division address. There is no online portal, fax option, or same-day counter service.

Do I need to surrender my Texas title with the form?

Yes, if you have it and it is not lost or destroyed. The title is not required only when the department can verify your ownership in its system.

Can a business file this form instead of a person?

Yes. An entity puts its full name in the First Name (or Entity Name) box, leaves the other name fields blank, and an authorized person signs on its behalf.

How long does it take to get the Certificate of Authority?

Yes, expect up to 30 days. The agency must allow owners and lienholders 20 days to claim the vehicle, then issues the certificate on the 21st day.

What happens if I certify false information on the form?

No, never do it. The form states that falsifying information is a third degree felony, so only sign facts you can prove are true.

Should I use this form if I want to fix up and keep the car?

No. Use the bonded-title process instead. VTR-71-2 permanently bars the vehicle from being retitled, registered, or made road-legal again.