The Texas Form VTR-441 is the Application for Salvage or Nonrepairable Vehicle Title, and it is the form you file with the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles (TxDMV) when a vehicle is too damaged to keep its normal title. You file it when an insurance company totals your car, when you keep a wrecked vehicle, or when a vehicle is damaged so badly it can only be used for parts or scrap. The form tells the state to brand the title as “Salvage” or “Nonrepairable,” and that brand follows the vehicle for life.
Getting this form right matters because a wrong checkbox or a missing title can stop you from ever rebuilding and driving the car again. The current version is VTR-441, Rev 01/25, and you should always check that the revision date in the bottom corner matches before you start. Texas processes hundreds of thousands of salvage and total-loss transactions each year, and a large share of mailed title applications get held or rejected for simple errors like an unsigned form or no fee. This guide walks you through every box, line, and signature so your application clears the first time.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 🚗 What the VTR-441 does and exactly who must file it under Texas law
- 📋 Every document and number you need to gather before you open the form
- ✍️ A line-by-line walkthrough of all the fields, with sample entries
- 💡 Three real filer scenarios showing what to write in each box
- ⚠️ The mistakes that get the form rejected and how to avoid them
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The VTR-441 is the official Texas application that turns a regular vehicle title into a branded Salvage Vehicle Title or Nonrepairable Vehicle Title. The TxDMV Vehicle Titles and Registration Division is the agency that receives it and issues the new branded title. The legal authority comes from Texas Transportation Code Chapter 501, the Certificate of Title Act, which defines what counts as a salvage or nonrepairable vehicle and requires the owner to surrender the regular title.
A salvage motor vehicle is one where the cost to repair the damage is more than the vehicle’s actual cash value right before the damage. A nonrepairable motor vehicle is one so wrecked, burned, or destroyed that its only value is as parts or scrap metal, and it can never legally return to the road. The form lets you tell the state which one you have, and that choice decides whether the car can ever be rebuilt.
Several types of people and businesses file this form. Insurance companies file it after they pay a total-loss claim and take ownership of the vehicle. Salvage dealers, vehicle storage facilities, and licensed rebuilders file it as part of their normal business. And everyday owners file it when they decide to keep a car the insurer declared a total loss, or when they buy a wrecked vehicle and want to rebuild it.
The penalty for ignoring this requirement is serious. Driving or registering a salvage vehicle before it is repaired and re-titled as “Rebuilt Salvage” is against Texas law, and a nonrepairable vehicle can never be driven at all. Falsifying any statement on the form is a third-degree felony, which the form states in plain language right above the signature line.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gathering everything before you open the VTR-441 saves you from a rejected application and a second round of mailing. The single most common reason these forms come back is a missing document, not a wrong answer. Below is the pre-filing checklist of what to have in hand.
- The original vehicle title. You must surrender the original Texas or out-of-state title, properly assigned to you if ownership changed. Without it, your only path is to check the Certified Copy of Title box, which adds requirements and a fee.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You need the full 17-character VIN exactly as it appears on the title and the vehicle. A single wrong character sends the application into a manual review hold.
- The title or document number. This is printed on the front of the current title. If you cannot find it, the form lets you leave it blank, but supplying it speeds up matching.
- The odometer reading. For vehicles less than 10 model years old, federal law requires an odometer disclosure, and a missing reading stops the application.
- The license plate state and number. This helps the state match the vehicle to its registration record, though it is not always required.
- Your full legal name and mailing address. Use the name as it appears on your ID, because the new title is mailed to this exact name and address.
- Lien information. If a bank or lender still holds a lien, you need the lienholder’s name, address, and the first lien date to carry it forward correctly.
- The application fee. Have an $8.00 personal check, cashier’s check, or money order ready, payable to the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles. Add $2.00 if you need a certified copy.
- A copy of your government photo ID. This is required only if you check the Certified Copy of Title box, but it is smart to have it ready.
Missing any of these can cost you weeks. For example, Marcus buys a flood-damaged truck but forgets to get the seller’s signature assigning the title to him. His VTR-441 gets held until he tracks the seller down again, delaying his rebuild by a month.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The only version you should use is the official one hosted by TxDMV. You can download the current VTR-441 Salvage/Nonrepairable application directly as a fillable PDF, and you can also find it on the TxDMV forms library page. The form is free, so never pay a third-party website to “unlock” it.
Always confirm the revision date in the lower corner reads Rev 01/25 before you fill it out. Older county copies still floating around the internet show “Rev 01/12,” and an outdated form may be missing the current fields, such as the “Last Titled Outside of Texas” section that insurance companies must complete. Using an old version can get your whole packet bounced back.
You have two ways to complete it. You can open the PDF on a computer and type your answers into the fillable fields, which produces clean, readable entries the state can scan without question. Or you can print it and fill it in by hand using black ink and block capital letters. Either way works, but typed forms reduce the chance a clerk misreads your handwriting and enters the wrong VIN.
If you would rather not handle it yourself, your local County Tax Assessor-Collector’s office can often accept and process the application in person. The Texas county tax office locator helps you find the nearest one. Many filers still choose to mail the form straight to Austin, which the next sections cover in detail.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form VTR-441 Line by Line
This section is the heart of the guide. The VTR-441 is one page of entries plus a page of instructions, and it is grouped into clear sections: Application Type, Vehicle Information, Applicant Information, Lien Information, an insurance-only section, and the Certification. Work through each field in the order it appears on the form, and use the exact field names printed on the document.
1. Application Type — Salvage, Nonrepairable, or Certified Copy
This is the first and most important choice on the form. The field asks you to check one: Salvage Vehicle Title ($8.00 fee) or Nonrepairable Vehicle Title ($8.00 fee). You also see a separate box for a Certified Copy of Texas Title (Additional $2.00 fee) that you only check if your original Texas title was lost or destroyed and ownership is not changing.
To answer it, decide whether the vehicle can ever return to the road. Check Salvage Vehicle Title if you plan to repair the car and rebuild it later. Check Nonrepairable Vehicle Title if the car is fit only for parts or scrap and will never be driven again. Only check the Certified Copy box on top of one of those if you cannot find the original title.
For example, Janet totaled her sedan in a crash but wants to fix it herself, so she checks Salvage Vehicle Title. She does not check Nonrepairable, because that brand would make the car permanently illegal to drive.
A common edge case is the lost-title situation. If you are keeping the vehicle, never sold it, and simply lost the paper title, you check both a title type and the Certified Copy of Texas Title box, and you bring the extra $2.00 fee plus a copy of your photo ID.
The most common mistake here is checking nothing at all or checking both title types. If you leave this blank, the state cannot tell what brand to issue and returns the form. The direct consequence is weeks of delay and a re-mailed application.
A widespread misconception is that “salvage” and “nonrepairable” mean the same thing. They do not. A salvage title can become a rebuilt, drivable title; a nonrepairable title is permanent, and the law bars that vehicle from ever being repaired for road use.
2. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the unique 17-character code that identifies your exact vehicle. It is the anchor the state uses to find the existing record and brand the right vehicle.
To answer it, copy the VIN exactly as it appears on the current title, using all capital letters and no spaces. Double-check each character against the VIN plate on the dashboard or driver’s door jamb.
For example, Carlos writes 1HGCM82633A004352 in the VIN box, matching his title letter for letter.
A nuance to watch: the VIN never contains the letters I, O, or Q, because those look like the numbers 1 and 0. If you think you see one, look again, since it is almost always a digit.
The common mistake here is transposing two characters or swapping a zero for the letter O. The consequence is a mismatch with the state record, which puts the application into a manual hold and delays your title.
People often believe the license plate number is the same as the VIN. It is not. The plate changes over the life of the car, but the VIN stays fixed from the factory.
3. Year, Make, Body Style, and Model
These four fields ask for the basic description of the vehicle: the model Year, the Make (manufacturer), the Body Style, and the Model. Together they confirm the VIN matches a real, described vehicle.
To answer them, copy each value straight from your title. Use the four-digit model year, the brand name for make, a short body-style code or word, and the model name.
For example, Carlos enters 2003 for Year, HONDA for Make, 4DR for Body Style, and ACCORD for Model.
A nuance: body style is often shown as an abbreviation on the title, such as 2D, 4D, PK for pickup, or VN for van. Match whatever your title shows rather than inventing a new term.
The common mistake is entering the year you bought the car instead of the model year. The consequence is a description that does not match the VIN, triggering a review.
Many people think the make is the model, writing “Accord” in both boxes. The make is the manufacturer (Honda), and the model is the specific line (Accord).
4. Title/Document Number and Surrendered Title State
This grouping asks for the Title/Document Number (if unknown, leave blank) and the Surrendered Title State. These tell the state which prior title you are giving up and where it came from.
To answer, copy the document number printed on the face of your current title, and write the two-letter state code for the state that issued it. If you truly cannot find the number, the form lets you leave it blank.
For example, Janet writes her title number 01234567890123456 and enters TX for Surrendered Title State.
A nuance applies to out-of-state vehicles. If your car was last titled in Oklahoma, you write OK here and surrender the Oklahoma title, even though you now live in Texas.
The common mistake is guessing at a document number you are unsure of. The consequence is a mismatch; it is safer to leave it blank than to enter a wrong number, since the state can find the record by VIN.
A frequent misconception is that you keep your old title. You do not. You surrender the original title with this form, and the state issues the new branded one in its place.
5. License Plate State and Number, and Odometer Reading
This group asks for the License Plate State and Number (if any) and the Odometer Reading (no tenths), with checkboxes to mark the mileage as Exempt, Not Actual, or Exceeds Mechanical Limits.
To answer, write the plate’s state and number if the car still has plates, then enter the whole-number mileage with no decimals. Check a mileage box only if one applies; otherwise the reading is treated as the actual mileage.
For example, Carlos writes TX ABC1234 for the plate and 152340 for the odometer, leaving all three mileage checkboxes blank because the reading is true.
A nuance: vehicles 10 model years old or older are odometer-exempt under federal rules, so you can check Exempt and skip an exact figure. Newer vehicles must show a real reading.
The common mistake is writing tenths, like 152340.5, or leaving the odometer blank on a newer car. The consequence is a federal odometer-disclosure failure that stops the application cold.
People wrongly assume a flood or fire car does not need a mileage entry. It still does, unless the vehicle qualifies as exempt by age.
6. Type of Damage
This field asks you to check the Type of Damage: Accident/Collision, Flood Damage, or Other (specify). It records why the vehicle became salvage or nonrepairable.
To answer, check the single box that best fits the cause. If you choose Other, write a short, clear description on the line, such as hail or fire.
For example, Marcus checks Flood Damage because his truck sat in high water during a storm.
A nuance: hail damage is usually not enough by itself to make a car a salvage vehicle, so if hail is your reason, be ready for the state to verify it meets the salvage definition under the law.
The common mistake is leaving this blank or checking Other without writing the cause. The consequence is an incomplete application that the clerk cannot process without follow-up.
A misconception is that the damage type is just a formality. It is not; it ties to the legal definition of salvage and can affect whether the brand is accepted.
7. Applicant Information
This section asks for the First Name (or Entity Name), Middle Name, Last Name, and Suffix (if any) of the applicant, plus space for an Additional Applicant and the full mailing Address, City, State, Zip, optional Email, and optional Phone Number.
To answer, write your full legal name exactly as it appears on your photo ID. If a company is filing, put the business name in the First Name (or Entity Name) box. Enter the mailing address where you want the new title sent.
For example, Janet Marie Carter enters her name across the three boxes and her home address, since the branded title will arrive in her mailbox.
A nuance: if two people own the vehicle together, both go on the form, the first owner in the main fields and the second in the Additional Applicant fields. Both must later sign.
A common edge case is using a P.O. Box. That is fine for the mailing address, since the title is mailed, not hand-delivered.
The common mistake is using a nickname or maiden name that does not match your ID. The consequence is a name mismatch that can delay the title and cause trouble at the county office later.
Many filers think the email and phone are required. They are optional, but adding them lets the state reach you fast if something is missing.
8. Lien Information
This section asks you to check No lien, Carry forward existing lien, or Record new lien (on Salvage Vehicle Title Only), and to provide the First Lien Date, Lienholder Name, and the lienholder’s Address, City, State, and Zip.
To answer, check No lien if the vehicle is paid off. Check Carry forward existing lien if a lender still holds an interest and you want to keep it on the new title. Check Record new lien only on a Salvage title, then fill in the lienholder details.
For example, Carlos still owes his credit union, so he checks Carry forward existing lien and writes the credit union’s name, address, and the original First Lien Date of 03/15/2022.
A key nuance: a new lien can only be recorded on a Salvage title, never a Nonrepairable one. An existing lien can be carried forward on either, but to remove it you must include a release of lien.
The common mistake is leaving this blank when a lien exists. The consequence is that the state carries the lien forward by default, or holds the application, instead of clearing it.
People often believe a salvage title wipes out their loan. It does not. The debt and the lien survive the title brand until the loan is paid and released.
9. Last Titled Outside of Texas (Insurance Companies Only)
This section applies only if the application is in the name of an insurance company and the vehicle was last titled outside Texas. It asks the insurer to indicate the connection to Texas: Damage occurred in Texas, Theft occurred in Texas, Theft recovery occurred in Texas, or that the prior owner is a Texas resident.
To answer, an insurer checks the single box that explains why Texas has jurisdiction over an out-of-state vehicle. An individual filer skips this section entirely.
For example, an adjuster at Lone Star Mutual Insurance checks Damage occurred in Texas because the wreck happened on a Dallas highway, even though the car was titled in Louisiana.
A nuance: this field exists so the state can legally brand a vehicle that was not originally a Texas vehicle. Without a valid Texas connection, the state may not have authority to issue the title.
The common mistake is an insurer leaving this blank on an out-of-state total loss. The consequence is a rejected application, since the state cannot confirm jurisdiction.
A misconception is that individuals must fill this in too. They do not; this section is reserved for insurance-company filers only.
10. Certification and Signatures
This final section is the Certification, which states that State law makes falsifying information a third degree felony, followed by the Signature of Applicant/Owner, Printed Name (Same as Signature), and Date, plus matching lines for an Additional Applicant/Owner.
To answer, sign in ink, print your name exactly as you signed it, and write the date in MM/DD/YYYY format. Every owner listed in the Applicant section must sign and date here.
For example, Janet signs her name, prints JANET MARIE CARTER, and dates it 06/02/2026.
A nuance: if two owners are on the form, both signatures are required, and a missing second signature voids the application. For a company, an authorized agent signs.
The common mistake is forgetting to date the form or having only one of two owners sign. The consequence is an automatic rejection, since an unsigned or undated certification is not valid.
Many people think a typed name counts as a signature. It does not; the signature line needs an actual handwritten signature, even on a typed form.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common situations, each following one person through the key sections of the VTR-441 so you can see what real entries look like.
Scenario 1: Janet keeps her totaled car to rebuild it. Janet’s sedan was declared a total loss after a crash, but she bought it back from her insurer and wants to repair and drive it again.
| Form Section | What Janet Enters |
|---|---|
| Application Type | Checks Salvage Vehicle Title ($8.00 fee) |
| VIN | 2HGES16575H600001 |
| Year / Make / Model | 2015 / HONDA / CIVIC |
| Body Style | 4DR |
| Surrendered Title State | TX |
| Odometer Reading | 88,450, no checkbox marked |
| Type of Damage | Checks Accident/Collision |
| Lien Information | Checks No lien (car is paid off) |
| Signature / Date | Signs, prints name, dates 06/02/2026 |
Scenario 2: Lone Star Mutual titles a totaled out-of-state vehicle as Nonrepairable. An insurer paid a claim on a burned truck that was titled in Louisiana but damaged in Texas, and it will sell the truck only for parts.
| Form Section | What the Insurer Enters |
|---|---|
| Application Type | Checks Nonrepairable Vehicle Title ($8.00 fee) |
| VIN | 1FTFW1ET0EFA00001 |
| Year / Make / Model | 2014 / FORD / F-150 |
| Surrendered Title State | LA |
| Type of Damage | Checks Other, writes fire |
| Applicant (Entity Name) | LONE STAR MUTUAL INSURANCE CO |
| Last Titled Outside of Texas | Checks Damage occurred in Texas |
| Lien Information | Checks No lien |
| Signature / Date | Authorized agent signs and dates |
Scenario 3: Marcus buys a flood truck and lost the title. Marcus owns a flood-damaged truck, never changed the title into another name, and cannot find his original Texas title.
| Form Section | What Marcus Enters |
|---|---|
| Application Type | Checks Salvage Vehicle Title and Certified Copy of Texas Title |
| VIN | 3GTUKSE38AG100002 |
| Year / Make / Model | 2010 / GMC / SIERRA |
| Title/Document Number | Left blank (unknown) |
| Odometer Reading | Checks Exempt (vehicle over 10 years old) |
| Type of Damage | Checks Flood Damage |
| Applicant Information | MARCUS T REYES, home P.O. Box address |
| Photo ID | Attaches copy of Texas driver license |
| Signature / Date | Signs, prints name, dates the form |
How to File the Completed Form
Once your VTR-441 is filled out and signed, you have a few ways to file it, and each has its own address, fee, and proof to keep. Pick the channel that fits your timeline and comfort level.
By regular mail (most common). Send the completed application, the original title, and your fee to the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles, Vehicle Titles and Registration Division, ATTN: Title Control Systems, P.O. Box 26450, Austin, Texas 78755-0450. The fee is $8.00 ($10.00 total if you add the certified copy), payable by personal check, cashier’s check, or money order to the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles. Never send cash, and keep a copy of everything plus your mailing receipt as proof of filing.
By express or overnight mail. If you need faster delivery, send the same packet by express mail to the street address: Texas Department of Motor Vehicles, Vehicle Titles and Registration Division, Attn: Title Control Systems, 4000 Jackson Ave., Austin, Texas 78731. The fee is the same, and the carrier’s tracking number is your proof of filing. Processing still takes the state’s normal time after it arrives.
In person at a county tax office. Many County Tax Assessor-Collector offices accept the VTR-441 over the counter, and you can find yours with the county tax office locator. Bring the form, the original title, your fee, and a photo ID. The clerk gives you a stamped receipt as proof, and some offices process it faster than mail.
Across every channel, the rules on payment hold firm: credit and debit cards and temporary checks are not accepted by mail, and all fees are non-refundable. Make a full copy of your application and title before you send the originals, so you have a record if anything is lost.
What Happens After You File
After the TxDMV receives your VTR-441 and fee, it reviews the application, matches the VIN to the existing record, and issues the new branded title. For a salvage application, the state mails a Salvage Vehicle Title to the owner or lienholder, usually within a few weeks of receiving a clean packet. A nonrepairable application produces a Nonrepairable Vehicle Title that permanently bars the vehicle from the road.
If you applied for a salvage title and want to drive the car again, the salvage title is only the first step. You then repair the vehicle, keep every parts and labor receipt, and get a new safety inspection with an Identification Certificate (Form VI-30) after you receive the salvage title. Next, you take the salvage title to your county tax office with a Form 130-U title application, a Form VTR-61 Rebuilt Affidavit, the inspection report, and proof of insurance.
At that stage, you pay the application fee, any registration fees, and a $65.00 rebuilder fee. The state then issues a title branded “Rebuilt Salvage,” and only then may the vehicle legally return to public roads. A nonrepairable vehicle never reaches this stage, because the law forbids rebuilding it.
If your application is incomplete, the state holds it or mails it back with a note about what is missing. This is why a clean, fully signed packet with the right fee matters so much; a rejection can add weeks to an already stressful process.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Small errors on the VTR-441 cause most of the delays filers face. Watch for each of these.
- Checking no title type. The state cannot tell whether to brand the car salvage or nonrepairable, so it returns the form.
- Checking both title types. Marking salvage and nonrepairable at once is contradictory and gets the application rejected.
- Wrong or transposed VIN. A single mismatched character puts the application into a manual hold and delays the title.
- Leaving the odometer blank on a newer car. This fails the federal odometer-disclosure rule and stops processing.
- Writing tenths in the odometer box. The field says “no tenths,” and a decimal entry can be kicked back.
- Skipping the Type of Damage box. An unmarked cause leaves the application incomplete and unprocessable.
- Forgetting to surrender the original title. Without it, the application stalls unless you also check the certified-copy box.
- Only one owner signs when two are listed. A missing signature voids the certification and the whole form.
- Sending the wrong fee or cash. Cash, cards, and temporary checks are not accepted, and a wrong amount delays everything.
- Insurer skips the “Last Titled Outside of Texas” box. On an out-of-state total loss, this blank field gets the application rejected for lack of jurisdiction.
- Recording a new lien on a Nonrepairable title. The form only allows a new lien on a salvage title, so this entry is invalid.
- Using an outdated form version. An old Rev 01/12 copy may be missing current fields and can be bounced back.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Do confirm the form reads Rev 01/25 before you start, so you are using the current version with all required fields.
- Do print or type in clear block capitals, because a clerk who cannot read your VIN may enter it wrong.
- Do make a full copy of the form and title before mailing, so you have proof if the packet is lost.
- Do sign and date with every listed owner, since a missing signature is an automatic rejection.
- Do send the exact fee by check or money order, because the right payment keeps the application moving.
- Do keep your mailing or tracking receipt, as it is your only proof the state received your packet.
Don’t:
- Don’t send cash, because the state will not accept it and your application will not process.
- Don’t guess at the VIN or title number, since a wrong entry causes a mismatch and a hold.
- Don’t check nonrepairable if you plan to rebuild, because that brand permanently bans the car from the road.
- Don’t mail the only copy of your title without copying it first, in case it is lost in transit.
- Don’t leave the damage type blank, as an incomplete cause stalls the application.
- Don’t use an old county PDF, because outdated versions can be missing required current fields.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Many filers handle the VTR-441 themselves, while others use a county office or a title service. Here is how the two paths compare.
Pros of filing on your own:
- It saves money, because you pay only the $8 state fee and no service charge.
- You control the timing, so you can mail it the moment your documents are ready.
- You learn the process, which helps if you later file for the rebuilt title.
- The form is short, at one page of entries, so most owners can complete it.
- Direct contact with TxDMV means no middleman to misread your details.
Cons of filing on your own:
- A small error can cost weeks, since the state mails a rejected form back to you.
- You must track every document yourself, including the surrendered title and fee.
- No expert reviews your work, so a wrong checkbox slips through unnoticed.
- Mail processing can be slow, with no one to expedite a stuck application.
- The rebuilt-title steps are complex, and a misstep there can be costly without guidance.
FAQs
Do I have to surrender my original title with the VTR-441?
Yes. You submit the original title properly assigned to you, and the state replaces it with the branded salvage or nonrepairable title. If it is lost, check the Certified Copy box instead.
Can a nonrepairable vehicle ever be driven again?
No. A nonrepairable title is permanent, and Texas law bars the vehicle from being repaired, rebuilt, or operated on a public road ever again.
Do I check both a title type and the Certified Copy box?
Yes. If your original Texas title is lost and ownership is not changing, you check a title type and the Certified Copy of Texas Title box, then add the $2.00 fee.
Can I record a new lien on a Nonrepairable Vehicle Title?
No. A new lien can only be recorded on a Salvage Vehicle Title. On a nonrepairable title you may only carry forward an existing recorded lien.
Do I write tenths in the Odometer Reading box?
No. The field says “no tenths,” so you enter a whole number only, such as 88,450, with no decimal point.
Should an individual fill out the “Last Titled Outside of Texas” section?
No. That section applies only when an insurance company files for an out-of-state vehicle. Individual filers skip it entirely.
Do both owners need to sign if two people are listed?
Yes. Every owner named in the Applicant Information section must sign and date the certification, or the application is rejected.
Can I pay the fee with a credit card by mail?
No. Mailed applications accept only personal checks, cashier’s checks, or money orders payable to the Texas Department of Motor Vehicles, never cash or cards.
Is the application fee refundable if my form is rejected?
No. All fees are non-refundable, so confirm every field is correct before you mail your packet.
Do I need a photo ID copy for a regular salvage application?
No. A photo ID copy is required only if you check the Certified Copy of Texas Title box; a standard salvage or nonrepairable filing does not require it.
Can I get a salvage title for a car damaged only by hail?
No. Hail damage alone usually does not meet the salvage definition unless the repair cost exceeds the vehicle’s actual cash value before the damage.
Does a salvage title cancel my car loan?
No. The brand on the title does not erase your debt; the lien stays until the loan is paid and the lender files a release.
Is the current version of the form Rev 01/25?
Yes. The current VTR-441 shows “Rev 01/25” in the lower corner, and you should confirm this before filling it out to avoid using an outdated copy.
Can my county tax office process this form instead of mailing it?
Yes. Many County Tax Assessor-Collector offices accept the VTR-441 in person, which can be faster than mailing it to Austin.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Texas Form VTR-262 (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Texas Form VTR-441 (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Texas Abandoned Vehicle Title (VTR-71-2) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Texas Bonded Title Application (VTR-130-SOF) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Texas Repossession Title (VTR-264) (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Colorado DMV Salvage Title Application (Forms DR 2424 & DR 2710) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs