The Utah Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form TC-891) is the short, four-section state form that a vehicle seller signs to certify the true mileage of a car at the moment of sale, and the buyer signs to confirm they received it. Utah law makes the seller (the “transferor”) give this signed mileage statement to the buyer (the “transferee”) at the time of any vehicle sale or transfer, and the original goes to the Utah Division of Motor Vehicles when the buyer titles the car.
Getting the mileage wrong is not a minor slip. Each year about 3 million used cars have their odometers rolled back an average of 30,000 miles, and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration estimates this fraud costs American consumers roughly four billion dollars a year. A clean, correct TC-891 protects you from being pulled into that mess.
- 🚗 You will learn exactly what every box on the TC-891 form asks and how to answer it.
- 📝 You will see three full filled-out examples for the most common Utah sale situations.
- ⚠️ You will learn which mileage box to check when an odometer is broken, replaced, or rolled over.
- 📅 You will learn where to file the form, the four-year record rule, and what happens after.
- ⚖️ You will learn the penalties, including the Class B misdemeanor for skipping the statement.
What the TC-891 Is and Who Must File It
The TC-891 is Utah’s official written odometer disclosure statement, published by the Utah State Tax Commission and used through the Division of Motor Vehicles. It records who sold the vehicle, who bought it, what the vehicle is, and the exact mileage reading on the day ownership changed hands. The form is used at the time of sale or transfer, then surrendered to the DMV when the new owner applies for a title.
The person who must complete and sign it is the transferor — the seller. Both federal law and Utah Code § 41-1a-902 require the seller to furnish a signed mileage statement to the buyer on every transfer of ownership. The buyer must also sign to acknowledge they received it. This rule covers private party sales between two people and sales handled by licensed dealers.
Some vehicles are exempt. Under Utah Code § 41-1a-902, no disclosure statement is needed for a vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating of 16,000 pounds or more, a vehicle registered for a gross laden weight of 18,000 pounds or more, a vehicle 20 years old or older, or a vehicle sold directly by the manufacturer to a U.S. Government agency. One important catch: federal rules changed in 2021 so that vehicles model year 2011 and newer now require disclosure for 20 years, as the NHTSA explains. When the state age rule and the federal rule disagree, follow the stricter one and disclose.
Skipping the statement is not free. Failure to provide the odometer mileage disclosure statement, or violation of any rule about it, is a Class B misdemeanor in Utah. Issuing a false statement or turning back an odometer climbs to a third-degree felony, as the Utah DMV warns.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Fill in the blanks correctly the first time and you avoid a rejected title application or a trip back to the DMV. The TC-891 is short, but each entry must match the title and the buyer’s identification. Gather everything below before you pick up a pen.
- The vehicle title. It carries the exact VIN, year, make, and model you must copy, and a mismatch can stall the buyer’s title transfer.
- The Vehicle/Hull Identification Number (VIN/HIN). The DMV cross-checks this 17-character number; one wrong digit can void the statement.
- The current odometer reading. You need the exact whole-number mileage shown on the day of sale, with no tenths.
- The seller’s full legal name and street address. This must match the name on the title, or the DMV may question who actually owns the car.
- The buyer’s full legal name and street address. The buyer signs and is named as the new owner, so an error here clouds the new title.
- The body type of the vehicle. The form asks for it (sedan, pickup, SUV), and leaving it blank is a common reason a clerk hands the form back.
- The date of sale or transfer. Both signatures need a date, and the date must match the bill of sale and title assignment.
- Whether the odometer was ever repaired, replaced, or rolled over. If yes, you need the prior mileage and a door-frame notice, so settle this before you sign.
If a vehicle’s odometer was repaired or replaced, you also need the mileage that was on the car before the repair, plus a written notice for the left door frame, as required by the Utah DMV. Missing that prior-mileage figure means you cannot legally complete the disclosure for a reset odometer.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The official TC-891 is a free, fillable PDF you can download directly from the Utah State Tax Commission forms library. It is a single page with a “Clear form” button at the bottom, so you can type your answers on a computer and print, or print it blank and write by hand. Always pull the current version from the official site so you have the latest revision rather than an outdated copy from a third-party site.
You can also get the form in person. Any Utah DMV office keeps paper copies at the counter, and licensed dealers stock them as part of their standard deal jackets. Dealers can find it alongside the TC-656 Title Application and other transfer forms in the Utah dealer resources list.
If a seller cannot or will not provide the TC-891, the buyer is not always stuck. Utah accepts the TC-893 Odometer Disclosure Waiver in limited situations, and the DMV has been known to issue a title and plates using the waiver when the original statement is missing, as buyers report in this DMV experience. Still, the clean path is a properly completed TC-891, because the waiver is an exception, not the rule.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the TC-891 Line by Line
The TC-891 has four labeled sections: Transferor Information, Vehicle Information, Odometer Disclosure, and Transferee Information. Work through them top to bottom in the order printed on the official form. Print clearly in blue or black ink, use capital letters, and never sign a blank form.
Section 1 – Transferor’s Name
This field asks for the seller’s name, printed last name first, then first name and middle initial, or the business name if a company is selling. You are telling the DMV exactly who is releasing ownership of the vehicle.
Write your legal name as it appears on the title, in the order the form asks. For example, Daniels, Robert J is how an individual seller named Robert James Daniels enters his name, while a dealership writes its registered business name, such as Wasatch Auto Sales LLC.
A common edge case is a name change. If your driver license now reads a married name but the title still shows your maiden name, use the name on the title for this form and bring proof of the change to the DMV. Selling a jointly titled car is another wrinkle, because every owner listed on the title with “and” must sign, while “or” usually lets one owner sign.
The most common mistake here is entering a nickname or a name that does not match the title. The direct consequence is a hold on the buyer’s title transfer until the names are reconciled, which can take a second DMV visit. A frequent misconception is that the name only needs to match your ID; in truth it must match the title, because the title proves you have the legal right to sell.
Section 1 – Transferor’s Street Address, City, State, ZIP
This field asks for the seller’s current mailing or residential address, broken into street, city, state, and ZIP code boxes. It lets the DMV and the buyer reach the seller if a mileage question comes up later.
Enter your full street address in standard format, then the city, the two-letter state code, and the five-digit ZIP. Robert Daniels writes 742 Cedar Hollow Dr, Provo, UT, 84604 across the four boxes.
A common edge case is a P.O. Box. Utah generally wants a physical street address on vehicle paperwork, so use your residential address even if your mail goes to a box, and add the box separately only if needed. Sellers who recently moved should use their current address, not the one printed on an old registration.
The most common mistake is leaving the ZIP blank or transposing digits. The direct consequence is that follow-up notices about the sale never reach you, which matters if the buyer never registers the car and it stays in your name. A misconception is that the address is “just for mail”; it is also part of the legal record tying you to the disclosure.
Section 2 – Year, Make, Model
This field asks for the model year, manufacturer, and model name of the vehicle, exactly as shown on the title. It identifies the specific vehicle the mileage belongs to.
Copy these three items straight from the title, not from memory. For a 2018 Honda Civic, the entry reads 2018 for year, Honda for make, and Civic for model.
A common edge case is a trim or body variation, such as a Civic LX versus EX; the form only needs the base model, so do not crowd the box with trim codes. Rebuilt or rebadged vehicles should still use the make and model printed on the Utah title.
The most common mistake is guessing the model year from the purchase date rather than the title. The direct consequence is a vehicle-identity mismatch that can flag the title as suspicious. A misconception is that the year means the year you bought it; it always means the manufacturer’s model year shown on the title.
Section 2 – Vehicle/Hull Identification Number (VIN/HIN) and Body Type
This field asks for the full VIN (or HIN for a vessel) and the body type, such as sedan, coupe, pickup, or SUV. The VIN is the unique fingerprint the DMV uses to match this statement to the right vehicle.
Copy the VIN one character at a time from the title, double-checking each letter and number, then write the body type in plain words. A buyer purchasing a sedan sees an entry like 1HGFC2F59JA012345 for the VIN and Sedan for body type.
A common edge case is a VIN with letters that look like numbers, such as the letter “O” versus zero, or “I” versus one. VINs never use the letters I, O, or Q, so any of those is a copying error you should fix at once.
The most common mistake is a single wrong VIN character. The direct consequence is that the DMV cannot match the disclosure to the vehicle, and the entire transfer can be rejected. A misconception is that “close enough” works; the VIN must be exact, character for character, because it is the legal key to the vehicle’s record.
Section 3 – Odometer Reading (No Tenths) and Miles or Kilometers
This field asks for the exact number showing on the odometer at the time of sale, entered as a whole number, and a checkbox for whether the reading is in miles or kilometers. This is the heart of the form.
Read the odometer and write the whole number with no tenths and no commas needed, then check the Miles box for almost every U.S. vehicle. If the dash reads 86,432.7 miles, you enter 86432 and check Miles; the DMV notes that kilometers are converted to miles on the title.
A common edge case is a digital dash that shows tenths or a trip meter; record only the main lifetime odometer, rounded down to the whole number, never the trip meter. Imported vehicles that read in kilometers use the Kilometers box so the DMV can convert.
The most common mistake is including the tenths digit or copying the trip odometer. The direct consequence is a mileage figure that does not match other records and can look like tampering. A misconception is that rounding up is fine; you record the actual whole number shown, and you never round up.
Section 3 – The Mileage Certification Checkboxes
This field asks you to check exactly one of three boxes describing what the reading means: it reflects the actual mileage, it reflects mileage in excess of the odometer’s mechanical limits (the odometer rolled over), or it is not the actual mileage (an odometer discrepancy warning). You are legally certifying the truth about the number you just wrote.
Check “Reflects actual mileage for this vehicle” when the odometer works and shows true miles, which covers most sales. Check the “in excess of mechanical limits” box when an older five-digit odometer has rolled past its maximum and started over, and check “Is not the actual mileage” when you know the number is wrong, such as after a broken or replaced odometer.
A key edge case is a repaired or replaced odometer. Under Utah DMV rules, if the new odometer was reset to zero, the statement must specify the prior mileage, and a written notice showing the repair date and prior mileage must be permanently affixed to the left door frame. If the replacement reads the same as before, you may still certify actual mileage.
The most common mistake is checking “actual mileage” on a car you know has a busted or rolled-back odometer. The direct consequence is a false odometer statement, which is a third-degree felony in Utah, not a paperwork error. A misconception is that the “not actual mileage” box ruins the sale; it protects you, because honest disclosure is legal while hiding the truth is the crime.
Section 3 – Transferor’s Signature and Date of Statement
This field is the seller’s signature line, marked with an “X,” and the date the statement is signed. Your signature turns the form into a sworn certification of everything above it.
Sign on the X line in ink and write the date of the sale in the date box, matching the date on your bill of sale. Robert Daniels signs his name and dates it 07/18/2026 on the day he hands over the keys.
A common edge case is a power of attorney or an authorized agent signing for a business; that signer must be properly authorized, and the form notes a business may sign through its agent. Co-owners joined by “and” on the title each sign.
The most common mistake is signing a blank or partly filled form on a promise it will be completed later. The Utah DMV flatly says do not do this, because all signers are responsible for every fact on the statement, as confirmed on the odometer fraud page. A misconception is that a signature is just a formality; it is a legal certification that exposes you to fraud penalties if the mileage is false.
Section 4 – Transferee Information and Signature
This field asks for the buyer’s name, street address, city, state, ZIP, signature on the X line, and date. The buyer signs to acknowledge they received the disclosure and accept the stated mileage.
The buyer enters their legal name (last, first, middle initial, or business name), full address, then signs and dates. A buyer named Maria Elena Vasquez writes Vasquez, Maria E, her address, signs the X line, and dates it 07/18/2026.
A common edge case is a buyer who is a business or a co-buyer; a company enters its registered name and signs through an authorized agent, and co-buyers both sign. A dealer buying for resale enters the dealership name.
The most common mistake is the buyer leaving their section blank because “the seller filled out the rest.” The direct consequence is that the disclosure is incomplete and the DMV can reject it at titling. A misconception is that only the seller’s signature matters; the buyer’s acknowledgment is required, and the buyer should keep a copy too.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are the three most common Utah situations, each following one person through the whole TC-891. Sample entries are shown so you can picture what goes on the page.
Scenario 1 — Robert sells a 2018 Honda Civic with honest, working mileage (the standard case).
| Form Section | What Robert Enters |
|---|---|
| Section 1 – Transferor’s name | Daniels, Robert J |
| Section 1 – Street address | 742 Cedar Hollow Dr |
| Section 1 – City, State, ZIP | Provo, UT 84604 |
| Section 2 – Year / Make / Model | 2018 / Honda / Civic |
| Section 2 – VIN | 1HGFC2F59JA012345 |
| Section 2 – Body type | Sedan |
| Section 3 – Odometer reading | 86432 (Miles checked) |
| Section 3 – Certification box | Reflects actual mileage for this vehicle |
| Section 3 – Transferor signature / date | Robert Daniels / 07/18/2026 |
| Section 4 – Transferee name / signature | Vasquez, Maria E / Maria Vasquez / 07/18/2026 |
Scenario 2 — Linda sells a 2015 truck whose odometer was replaced and reset to zero.
| Form Section | What Linda Enters |
|---|---|
| Section 1 – Transferor’s name | Park, Linda S |
| Section 1 – Street address | 1180 Foothill Blvd |
| Section 1 – City, State, ZIP | Salt Lake City, UT 84108 |
| Section 2 – Year / Make / Model | 2015 / Ford / F-150 |
| Section 2 – VIN | 1FTEW1EP5FFA98765 |
| Section 2 – Body type | Pickup |
| Section 3 – Odometer reading | 00012 (Miles checked, since odometer was reset) |
| Section 3 – Certification box | Is not the actual mileage (Warning: Odometer discrepancy) |
| Section 3 – Door-frame notice | Prior mileage 142,300 recorded on left door frame with repair date |
| Section 4 – Transferee name / signature | Nguyen, David / David Nguyen / 06/02/2026 |
Scenario 3 — Carlos transfers a 2002 sedan that is over 20 years old and exempt.
| Form Section | What Carlos Does |
|---|---|
| Vehicle age | Car is a 2002 model, more than 20 years old |
| Disclosure requirement | Exempt under Utah Code § 41-1a-902 |
| Federal 20-year rule | Does not apply, because the car is older than model year 2011 |
| TC-891 needed? | No statement required for this transfer |
| What Carlos still does | Completes the title assignment and bill of sale |
| Section 2 – Vehicle facts on title | 2002 / Toyota / Camry, VIN copied to title transfer |
| Buyer protection | Buyer may still request a written mileage note for peace of mind |
| DMV titling | Buyer titles the car without a TC-891 |
A few more named filers show how varied these sales get. Aisha buys her first car from a neighbor and insists on a signed TC-891 so her title is clean. Marcus, a licensed dealer, completes a TC-891 for every retail sale and keeps each copy in the deal jacket. Janet sells a car she co-owns with her ex-spouse, so both of them sign Section 1 because the title joins their names with “and.”
How to File the Completed TC-891
The TC-891 is not mailed to the DMV on its own. Instead, the original signed statement is surrendered to the Motor Vehicle Division when the buyer titles and registers the vehicle, as the Utah DMV states. The seller hands the completed form to the buyer at the sale, and the buyer brings it to the DMV with the assigned title.
In person. The buyer takes the TC-891, the signed title, and a completed TC-656 Title Application to any Utah DMV office. The title fee is generally $6.00, plus registration and any sales tax due, and offices accept cash, check, and most cards. Processing is usually same-day at the counter, and the buyer keeps the stamped receipt as proof.
By mail. The buyer can mail the TC-891 with the title and TC-656 to the Utah DMV at PO Box 30412, Salt Lake City, UT 84130. Pay fees by check or money order, expect several weeks for processing, and keep the certified-mail receipt as proof of filing.
Through a dealer. When a dealer sells the car, the dealer typically submits the paperwork on the buyer’s behalf, including the odometer statement, as part of the title work. The buyer should still ask for a copy. Both seller and buyer must keep a legible copy of the TC-891 for at least four years under the rule printed on the form itself.
What Happens After You File
Once the buyer submits the title application with the TC-891, the DMV records the certified mileage and prints it on the new title certificate when applicable, as required by Utah Code § 41-1a-905. The mileage becomes part of the permanent vehicle record, which is why accuracy matters so much. The new title issues in the buyer’s name, and the chain of ownership stays clean.
If the mileage figure looks inconsistent, the DMV or the Motor Vehicle Enforcement Division may flag it. A buyer who later suspects tampering can ask the Tax Commission’s Motor Vehicle Enforcement Division to investigate, and can file a TC-451 Original Complaint Report, as explained by the Utah DMV. The seller’s signed certification is the record investigators rely on, so an honest TC-891 is the seller’s best protection.
Both parties should file their own copy somewhere safe for the full four-year retention period. If a dispute arises over whether the car had 86,000 or 186,000 miles, the signed statement settles it. Keeping the copy also helps the seller prove they disclosed honestly if the buyer later alters the car.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the TC-891
- Signing a blank or partly filled form. This makes you legally responsible for whatever someone else writes later.
- Copying the VIN incorrectly. A single wrong character can cause the DMV to reject the entire title transfer.
- Including tenths in the odometer reading. The form says no tenths, and the extra digit can look like an altered number.
- Recording the trip meter instead of the lifetime odometer. This understates true mileage and can read as fraud.
- Checking “actual mileage” on a known-bad odometer. That is a false statement, which is a third-degree felony in Utah.
- Forgetting the door-frame notice after an odometer reset. The transfer is incomplete without the affixed prior-mileage notice.
- Using a nickname instead of the title name. A name mismatch puts a hold on the buyer’s title application.
- Leaving the buyer’s Section 4 blank. An unsigned acknowledgment makes the disclosure incomplete and rejectable.
- Guessing the model year from the purchase date. The wrong year creates a vehicle-identity mismatch on the record.
- Skipping the form because “it’s a private sale.” Private sellers must disclose too, and skipping it is a Class B misdemeanor.
- Throwing away your copy after the sale. You must keep it four years, or you lose your proof if a dispute arises.
- Assuming an old car always needs the form. Vehicles 20 years old or older are exempt, so check the age first.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do copy the VIN, year, make, and model straight from the title, because the DMV matches them to the vehicle record.
- Do read the lifetime odometer and round down to a whole number, because the form forbids tenths.
- Do check the one mileage box that is true, because the certification is sworn.
- Do keep your copy for at least four years, because both parties are required to retain it.
- Do affix the door-frame notice when an odometer is reset, because the transfer is incomplete without it.
- Do bring proof of any name change to the DMV, because the title name must match.
Don’ts
- Don’t sign a blank form, because you become responsible for every entry on it.
- Don’t round the mileage up, because you must record the actual number shown.
- Don’t check “actual mileage” if you know it is wrong, because that is a felony false statement.
- Don’t use a P.O. Box where a street address is required, because the record needs your physical location.
- Don’t guess at the VIN, because one wrong character voids the match.
- Don’t skip the form on a private sale, because the law applies to all transfers unless the vehicle is exempt.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
| Filing the TC-891 Yourself | Using a Dealer or Title Service |
|---|---|
| Free, since the form is a no-cost PDF, so you keep more of the sale price. | Costs a fee, since the dealer or service charges for handling paperwork. |
| Fast for a simple, honest-mileage sale, because the form is one page. | Slower start, because you wait on the third party’s schedule. |
| Full control over accuracy, since you copy each entry yourself. | Less personal control, because someone else types your entries. |
| Builds your own clean record, because you keep the original copies. | Convenient for tricky cases, because pros know the reset and exemption rules. |
| Forces you to learn the rules, which helps on future sales. | Reduces error risk on complex deals, because experts catch VIN and box mistakes. |
| Risk of small errors, because a missed box can cause a DMV rejection. | Adds cost even when the sale is simple, which may not be worth it. |
FAQs
Do I need a TC-891 for a private sale between two people?
Yes. Utah law requires the seller to give a signed odometer statement on every transfer unless the vehicle is exempt, so private party sales are included.
Is the TC-891 required for a car that is 20 years old or older?
No. Vehicles 20 years old or older are exempt under Utah Code § 41-1a-902, though federal rules require disclosure on model year 2011 and newer vehicles.
Should I sign a blank TC-891 if the buyer promises to fill it in later?
No. The Utah DMV says all signers are responsible for every fact on the statement, so never sign before it is complete.
Do I write tenths of a mile in the odometer reading box?
No. The form says enter the reading with no tenths, so round down to the whole number shown on the odometer.
Which box do I check if my odometer rolled past its limit?
Yes, there is a box for that: check “Reflects the mileage in excess of odometer’s mechanical limits” when an older odometer has rolled over and restarted.
Do I check “actual mileage” if the odometer was replaced and reset to zero?
No. Check “Is not the actual mileage,” record the reading, and note the prior mileage on a notice affixed to the left door frame.
Is it a crime to file a false odometer statement in Utah?
Yes. Issuing a false odometer statement or turning back an odometer is a third-degree felony under Utah law, far beyond a simple paperwork error.
Does the buyer have to sign the TC-891?
Yes. The buyer signs Section 4 to acknowledge receipt of the disclosure, and the buyer should also keep a legible copy.
Do I mail the TC-891 to the DMV by itself?
No. The original is surrendered to the DMV with the assigned title and the TC-656 title application when the buyer registers the vehicle.
Should I enter my name exactly as it appears on my ID?
No. Enter your name as it appears on the vehicle title, because the title proves your legal right to sell the car.
Do both the buyer and seller have to keep a copy?
Yes. Both parties must retain a legible copy for at least four years, as printed directly on the TC-891 form.
Is there any way to title a car if the seller never gave me a TC-891?
Yes. Utah accepts the TC-893 Odometer Disclosure Waiver in limited cases, and the DMV may issue a title with the waiver when the statement is missing.
Does a heavy truck over 16,000 pounds need an odometer statement?
No. Vehicles with a gross vehicle weight rating of 16,000 pounds or more are exempt from the disclosure requirement under Utah law.
What do I do if I think an odometer was tampered with?
Yes, you have recourse: ask the Tax Commission’s Motor Vehicle Enforcement Division to investigate and file a TC-451 Original Complaint Report.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Alabama Odometer Disclosure Statement (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Connecticut DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Utah DMV Bill of Sale (TC-843) (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the North Dakota DOT Odometer Disclosure Statement (SFN 18773) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Rhode Island DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs