The Vermont Odometer Disclosure Statement is the part of Form VT-005, the Bill of Sale and Odometer Disclosure Statement, where the seller records a vehicle’s true mileage at the moment of sale, and every private seller of a qualifying vehicle in Vermont must complete it. Vermont is unusual because it does not put a separate odometer line on the title for older transfers; instead it folds the mileage disclosure into one combined Bill of Sale and Odometer Disclosure form, and the same disclosure also appears in the Assignment of Ownership block on the back of the title.
Getting this small box wrong carries large weight. Odometer fraud costs American car buyers more than $1 billion a year, and a single wrong checkmark or a crossed-out number can stall your title transfer for weeks or trigger a fraud review. The 2017 revision of Form VT-005 is the current version, so check the bottom corner of your form before you write anything so you know you have the right one.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 🚗 What the odometer disclosure does and exactly who must sign it
- 📋 The documents and numbers to gather before you touch the form
- ✍️ A line-by-line walkthrough of every box, with sample entries
- ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that get titles rejected, and how to dodge them
- 📬 How to file with the Vermont DMV by mail or in person, plus what happens next
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Vermont Odometer Disclosure Statement is a sworn record of a vehicle’s mileage at the time of transfer, built right into Form VT-005. The seller fills in the mileage, swears it is accurate, and both parties sign. The buyer then submits it to the Vermont Department of Motor Vehicles in Montpelier as part of the title and registration packet.
Federal law drives this requirement. The federal Truth in Mileage Act, found at 49 U.S.C. § 32705, forces sellers to give buyers a written mileage statement at the time of sale. The plain-English version is that you must tell the buyer the real mileage in writing. The consequence of skipping it is a void or delayed transfer, since the DMV will not title the car without it. For example, Janet sells her 2019 Subaru to her nephew and figures family does not need paperwork — but the DMV still rejects the title until a signed disclosure arrives. A common misconception is that a verbal “it’s got about 80,000 miles” counts; it does not, because only the signed written statement is legal proof.
Vermont also enforces its own anti-fraud statute. Under 23 V.S.A. § 1704a, it is illegal to alter an odometer or willfully misrepresent the reading on a title, bill of sale, or odometer disclosure statement. The consequence is steep: odometer fraud can bring fines and even jail time, plus civil damages to the buyer. For instance, Marcus rolls back the dial on his truck from 190,000 to 90,000 miles to get a better price and now faces both criminal charges and a lawsuit. The misconception that “the state will never check” is false, because buyers, inspectors, and Carfax-style histories routinely flag mileage that drops over time.
Not every vehicle needs the disclosure. The form itself states the statement is required for vehicles that are 9 model years old and newer, self-propelled, and under 16,000 pounds registered weight, mirroring the federal exemption rules. The conflict to know about is the federal change: for transfers of newer vehicles, the disclosure period now runs 20 years, while vehicles model year 2010 and older fall outside it — so a 2026 sale of a 2010 or older car is generally exempt. When in doubt, fill it out anyway, because an extra disclosure never hurts a transfer but a missing one always does.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Filling out the disclosure takes minutes, but only if you gather the right details first. Each item below feeds a specific box on Form VT-005, and a missing item is the top reason a packet bounces back from Montpelier.
- The signed-over Certificate of Title, because the odometer reading on the form must match the title’s Assignment of Ownership block exactly, and a mismatch triggers a hold.
- The exact odometer reading, read straight off the dash to the whole mile, since a guessed or rounded number can later look like fraud.
- The full Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), because the DMV cross-checks it against the title, and one wrong digit voids the form.
- The year, make, model, and body type, which identify the exact vehicle and must match the title.
- The seller’s full legal name and address, written as it appears on the title, because a nickname or old address can stall processing.
- The buyer’s full legal name and address, since the disclosure must name who is receiving the vehicle.
- The date of sale, because the disclosure is only valid as of that day’s reading and the buyer needs it for the 15-day inspection clock.
- The sale price, which sits on the same VT-005 form and drives the 6% Purchase and Use Tax owed at titling.
- A valid driver’s license or state ID for the buyer, required to register and title the vehicle.
- The completed Registration/Tax/Title Application (Form TA-VD-119), since the disclosure travels with it to the DMV.
Gather these in one place before you sit down. Aisha, a first-time seller, lays her title, registration, and a photo of her dashboard on the kitchen table so she can copy each number without guessing. Skipping this step is how filers end up with two documents that disagree, which is exactly what the DMV looks for.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
Vermont’s combined Bill of Sale and Odometer Disclosure lives on the official Vermont DMV forms page as Form VT-005. You can download and print the PDF at home, pick one up at any DMV branch, or use the version mailed with many title packets. Always confirm the 2017 revision marking before you write, because outdated copies may lack current fields.
The disclosure also appears in two other places, and you should know which to use. The back of the Vermont Certificate of Title carries an Odometer Disclosure Statement inside the Assignment of Ownership section, and for many used-car sales you complete that title block instead of, or in addition to, a separate VT-005. The standalone VT-005 is the safest catch-all because it doubles as your bill of sale and tax record.
Do not download from random template sites and assume they are official. Carlos grabs a generic odometer form from a third-party site and the DMV refuses it because it omits the Vermont-specific certification language. A common misconception is that any odometer form works in any state; it does not, because each state requires its own statutory wording. When unsure, use the form straight from the official Vermont DMV source.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form VT-005 Line by Line
Work top to bottom and print in dark ink. Every box below is filled by the seller unless noted, and the buyer signs at the end. Match each entry to the title, because the DMV reads the two side by side.
Vehicle Year, Make, and Model
This field asks for the basic identity of the vehicle being sold. Write the model year, the manufacturer, and the model name in plain block letters, such as 2019 / Subaru / Outback. Copy these straight from the title’s face, not from memory or a registration sticker.
A nuance comes up with rebuilt or kit vehicles, where the “make” may read differently on the title than on the car; always follow the title. The common mistake here is writing the trim or a marketing name (Outback Limited XT) instead of the model on the title, which can cause a clerk to flag a mismatch. The misconception is that close is good enough; the DMV wants the year, make, and model to match the title exactly, because the whole packet is cross-checked.
Body Type and Style
This box asks what kind of vehicle it is, such as a sedan, pickup, SUV, or motorcycle. Enter the body style shown on the title, for example 4-Door Wagon. This helps the DMV classify the vehicle for registration and weight rules.
The edge case is dual-purpose vehicles, like a van converted to a camper; use the body type the title lists, not the current use. A common mistake is leaving this blank because it seems minor, which slows classification and can affect your registration fee. The misconception is that body type does not matter for an odometer form; it matters because Vermont ties the 16,000-pound and self-propelled exemption tests to vehicle type.
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the unique 17-character code that identifies the exact vehicle. Copy the VIN one character at a time, in all capitals, with no spaces, such as 4S4BSANC1K3201234. Read it from the title and confirm it against the dash plate or door jamb.
The nuance is that older or imported vehicles may have fewer than 17 characters; enter exactly what the title shows. The single most damaging mistake on the whole form is a transposed VIN digit, because the DMV cannot match the vehicle and the entire transfer freezes. The misconception is that the VIN on your insurance card is fine to copy; it may contain a typo, so always pull it from the title itself.
Odometer Reading
This is the heart of the form: it asks for the exact mileage showing on the dash at the time of sale. Write the whole number with no tenths and no commas needed, such as 84217. Read the actual dash, not the last registration or an oil-change sticker.
The key nuance is the tenths digit; never include it, and never round up to a “nicer” number. The common mistake is recording an old or estimated figure, which creates a gap between the form and the car’s true history and looks like tampering. The misconception is that you should subtract for “wear” or round down; you record the literal number on the dial, because this is a sworn legal reading. Janet reads 84,217 on her Outback and writes exactly that, even though she “feels” the car has more life left.
Odometer Certification Checkboxes
This field asks you to certify the meaning of that reading by checking one of three boxes. Box one certifies the reading is the actual mileage; check this for almost all normal cars. Box two certifies the mileage is in excess of mechanical limits, used when the odometer has physically rolled past its maximum and started over. Box three certifies the reading is NOT the actual mileage and serves as a warning of an odometer discrepancy, used for broken or replaced odometers.
For example, Janet checks box one for her honest Outback reading. The nuance: if a five-digit odometer rolled from 99,999 back to 00,000, you check the “exceeds mechanical limits” box, not “actual.” The dangerous mistake is checking “actual mileage” when the odometer was replaced or broken, because that is a false certification under 23 V.S.A. § 1704a and exposes you to fraud liability. The misconception is that leaving all boxes blank is harmless; a blank certification voids the disclosure and the DMV will reject it.
Buyer’s Full Name and Address
This field asks who is receiving the vehicle. Print the buyer’s full legal name and current mailing address, such as Aisha Bello, 14 Maple Street, Burlington, VT 05401. Use the name exactly as it will appear on the new title and registration.
The nuance is co-buyers; if two people are taking ownership, list both full names. A common mistake is writing only a first name or an outdated address, which delays the new title and any DMV mail. The misconception is that the buyer fills in their own name later; the seller should record it at the time of sale so the disclosure is complete and dated as one event.
Seller’s Full Name, Signature, and Date
This field asks the seller to identify themselves and swear the reading is true. Print your full legal name as it appears on the title, sign in ink, and enter the date of sale in MM/DD/YYYY format, such as 06/06/2026. Vermont gives two seller spaces, so if the title shows two owners, both must sign.
The nuance arises with joint titles joined by “and,” where both owners must sign, versus “or,” where one may sign alone; follow the conjunction on the title. The most common mistake is one co-owner signing for both, which makes the transfer invalid and forces a redo. The misconception is that printing your name is the same as signing; the form needs both a printed name and a handwritten signature, because the signature is the sworn certification.
Buyer’s Signature
This final field asks the buyer to acknowledge they received the disclosure. The buyer signs and dates in the buyer’s signature line, such as Aisha Bello, 06/06/2026. This confirms the buyer was told the mileage in writing at the time of sale.
The nuance is that the buyer must sign the same day as the seller, because the disclosure reflects one transaction. A common mistake is leaving the buyer line blank, which the DMV reads as an incomplete disclosure and rejects. The misconception is that only the seller’s signature matters; federal law requires the buyer’s acknowledgment too, so a missing buyer signature voids the form.
Sale Price and Bill of Sale Details
Because VT-005 doubles as the bill of sale, this field asks for the agreed purchase price and the date. Enter the full price paid in dollars, such as $12,500, with the sale date. This number sets the base for Vermont’s tax.
The nuance is gifts and family transfers; you may enter the price as a gift, but the DMV can still assess tax on the NADA/J.D. Power book value. The common mistake is understating the price to cut taxes, which can be treated as tax fraud and reassessed at clean retail value. The misconception is that a low “$1” sale avoids tax; Vermont charges the 6% Purchase and Use Tax on the higher of price or book value, so undervaluing rarely works.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
These three fact patterns cover the situations Vermont sellers face most. Each follows one named person through the key fields of Form VT-005.
Scenario 1 — Standard private sale, actual mileage. Janet sells her well-kept 2019 Subaru Outback to a neighbor. Her odometer is honest and her title is clean.
| Form Section | What Janet Enters |
|---|---|
| Year / Make / Model | 2019 / Subaru / Outback |
| Body Type | 4-Door Wagon |
| VIN | 4S4BSANC1K3201234 |
| Odometer Reading | 84217 |
| Certification Box | Actual mileage (Box 1) |
| Buyer Name & Address | Aisha Bello, 14 Maple St, Burlington, VT 05401 |
| Seller Signature & Date | Janet Cole, 06/06/2026 |
| Sale Price | $18,900 |
Scenario 2 — Older vehicle past mechanical limits. Carlos sells a 1994 truck with a five-digit odometer that rolled over. The dash shows 12,300, but the truck has truly traveled 112,300 miles.
| Form Section | What Carlos Enters |
|---|---|
| Year / Make / Model | 1994 / Ford / F-150 |
| Body Type | Pickup |
| VIN | 1FTEF14N5RLA12345 |
| Odometer Reading | 12300 |
| Certification Box | Exceeds mechanical limits (Box 2) |
| Buyer Name & Address | Marcus Reed, 7 Elm Ave, Rutland, VT 05701 |
| Seller Signature & Date | Carlos Vega, 06/06/2026 |
| Sale Price | $4,200 |
Scenario 3 — Broken or replaced odometer, not actual mileage. Aisha sells a 2016 sedan whose odometer was replaced after a dash failure. The new cluster reads lower than the true miles.
| Form Section | What Aisha Enters |
|---|---|
| Year / Make / Model | 2016 / Honda / Civic |
| Body Type | 4-Door Sedan |
| VIN | 19XFC2F59GE012345 |
| Odometer Reading | 41080 |
| Certification Box | NOT actual mileage / discrepancy (Box 3) |
| Buyer Name & Address | Diane Foster, 22 Pine St, Montpelier, VT 05602 |
| Seller Signature & Date | Aisha Bello, 06/06/2026 |
| Sale Price | $9,750 |
How to File the Completed Form
In a private sale, the buyer files the signed disclosure as part of the title and registration packet. The seller’s job is to hand over the fully completed, signed VT-005 and the signed-over title. The buyer then submits everything with Form TA-VD-119 to the Vermont DMV.
By mail. Send the packet to the Vermont Department of Motor Vehicles, 120 State Street, Montpelier, VT 05603-0001. Include the title, the VT-005, proof of insurance, a copy of the buyer’s license or ID, payment of the 6% Purchase and Use Tax plus title and registration fees, and a J.D. Power value estimate if asked. Mailed packets typically process in a few weeks, so keep a photocopy of everything as your proof of filing.
In person. Bring the same documents to any Vermont DMV branch. In-person filing is faster, often handled the same day, and a clerk can catch errors before you leave. Pay by the methods that branch accepts, usually check, money order, card, or cash, and keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing.
Online. Initial used-vehicle titling with a paper title and odometer disclosure must be done by mail or in person, not online, because the original signed documents must be reviewed. Renewals and some services are available through the Vermont DMV online portal, but the first transfer is not. The buyer must get the vehicle inspected within 15 days of registering.
What Happens After You File
Once the DMV accepts your packet, it records the odometer reading in the state’s title history and issues a new Certificate of Title in the buyer’s name. The recorded mileage becomes the official baseline, so the next sale is checked against it. A clean, matching disclosure usually means a smooth title in a few weeks by mail or same day in person.
If something is off, the DMV sends the packet back or places a hold. A blank checkbox, a VIN typo, or a mileage that disagrees with the title are the usual culprits, and each adds weeks while you correct and resubmit. Marcus learns his title is frozen because his form said 90,000 but the prior record showed 180,000, triggering a fraud review.
The recorded reading follows the car for life. If a future seller reports lower miles than your filing, the system flags it, which protects honest buyers and exposes tampering. This is why an accurate entry today shields you from disputes long after you sell.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Transposing a VIN digit, which stops the DMV from matching the vehicle and freezes the entire transfer.
- Leaving all three certification boxes blank, which voids the disclosure and gets the packet rejected.
- Checking “actual mileage” on a broken or replaced odometer, which is a false certification and a fraud risk.
- Including the tenths digit or rounding the reading, which creates a mismatch with the recorded history.
- Recording an old or estimated mileage instead of the live dash reading, which can look like rollback.
- Only one co-owner signing a title joined by “and,” which makes the transfer legally invalid.
- Forgetting the buyer’s signature, which federal law treats as an incomplete disclosure.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name on the title, which delays the new title.
- Understating the sale price to dodge tax, which can be reassessed at full book value as fraud.
- Letting the mileage on VT-005 differ from the title’s Assignment of Ownership block, which triggers a hold.
- Using a non-Vermont or generic template, which the DMV refuses for missing state certification language.
- Filing without the title signed over to the buyer, which leaves the transfer incomplete.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do read the odometer live off the dash, because the disclosure is a sworn statement of the exact number.
- Do copy the VIN from the title, since that is the version the DMV cross-checks.
- Do make the VT-005 mileage match the title exactly, because mismatches are the top rejection cause.
- Do have all titled owners sign, since a missing co-owner signature voids the transfer.
- Do keep a photocopy of the finished form, because it is your proof of filing and disclosure.
- Do file promptly so the buyer can meet the 15-day inspection deadline.
Don’ts
- Don’t guess or round the mileage, because an inaccurate reading can look like fraud.
- Don’t leave the certification boxes blank, since the form is invalid without one checked.
- Don’t sign for another owner, because each titled owner must sign personally.
- Don’t understate the price, since Vermont taxes the higher of price or book value.
- Don’t use a generic out-of-state form, because it lacks required Vermont wording.
- Don’t cancel insurance until the transfer and any state notification are complete.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
| Filing It Yourself | Using a Dealer or Service |
|---|---|
| Free, since you avoid any service or doc fee | Costs a doc or handling fee, which adds to your total |
| You control accuracy and can match the title yourself | A pro catches errors before submission, lowering rejection risk |
| Same-day result is possible at a DMV branch | The dealer files titling and registration on your behalf |
| Builds your own paper trail and proof of filing | Saves you the trip and the paperwork time |
| Full transparency into what was reported | Handles tax math and forms so you avoid miscalculation |
| Mistakes fall on you and can cause weeks of delay | You rely on the dealer to file correctly and on time |
| No one double-checks your VIN or mileage entries | Less personal control over how figures are entered |
FAQs
Do I include the tenths digit in the odometer reading?
No. Record only the whole miles shown on the dash, with no tenths and no rounding, because the reading is a sworn legal figure the DMV matches to history.
Do I check “actual mileage” if my odometer was replaced?
No. Check the “NOT actual mileage” discrepancy box, because certifying a replaced or broken odometer as actual is false and a fraud risk under Vermont law.
Does Vermont require the odometer disclosure on the title too?
Yes. The disclosure also appears in the title’s Assignment of Ownership block, and the mileage there must match your VT-005 exactly or the DMV places a hold.
Do both owners need to sign if the title lists two names?
Yes. If the title joins names with “and,” both owners must sign the seller line, because one signature alone makes the transfer invalid.
Does the buyer have to sign the disclosure?
Yes. Federal law requires the buyer’s acknowledgment, so a missing buyer signature voids the disclosure and the DMV rejects the packet.
Do older vehicles need an odometer disclosure?
No. Vehicles outside the federal disclosure window, such as model year 2010 and older in a 2026 sale, are generally exempt, though filing anyway never harms the transfer.
Do I write the VIN from my insurance card?
No. Copy the VIN from the title, because insurance cards can carry typos and a single wrong digit freezes the entire transfer.
Does a low “$1” sale price avoid the tax?
No. Vermont charges 6% Purchase and Use Tax on the higher of the sale price or book value, so undervaluing the price rarely lowers the tax.
Do I file the odometer disclosure online?
No. First-time used-vehicle titling with a paper title must be filed by mail or in person, because original signed documents must be reviewed.
Does the mileage have to match the title’s reading?
Yes. The VT-005 mileage and the title’s odometer entry must be identical, because the DMV reads them together and any gap triggers a hold.
Do I use my nickname in the seller name box?
No. Use your full legal name as printed on the title, because a nickname or mismatch can delay the buyer’s new title.
Does Form VT-005 also serve as my bill of sale?
Yes. Vermont combines the bill of sale and odometer disclosure into one VT-005 form, so the same document records the price, the parties, and the mileage.
Do I need the “exceeds mechanical limits” box for an older car?
Yes. Check it only when a five-digit odometer has physically rolled past its maximum and restarted, because that reading is real but understated.
Does odometer fraud carry real penalties in Vermont?
Yes. Under 23 V.S.A. § 1704a, willfully misrepresenting mileage can bring fines, jail time, and civil damages owed to the buyer.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out the Nevada DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Maine BMV Odometer Disclosure Statement – Form MVT-32 (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the North Dakota DOT Odometer Disclosure Statement (SFN 18773) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Rhode Island DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Vermont DMV Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the West Virginia DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs