How to Fill Out the Wisconsin DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs

The Wisconsin odometer disclosure statement is the section a seller signs to record a vehicle’s true mileage when ownership changes, and almost every private seller and dealer in the state must complete it. In Wisconsin, this statement lives right on the back of the Wisconsin Certificate of Title (MV1), so for most people there is no separate page to track down. Dealers and lienholders use related forms, such as the MV2690 Power of Attorney Odometer Statement, when the paper title is held by someone else.

Getting this wrong has real costs. The Wisconsin DMV identified about 6,000 vehicles with odometer rollback in a single review, and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration estimates a 3.5% chance that any given car has a turned-back odometer. A single mistake in this small box can void the title and stall a sale for weeks.

Here is what you will learn in this guide:

• 📝 How to fill out every line of the odometer statement on the Wisconsin title, step by step.
• 🚗 Which vehicles are exempt and skip the statement under Trans 154.05.
• ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that brand a title “not actual” forever.
• 📬 How to file through paper, eMV Public, and a DMV service center.
• ❓ Twelve plain-answer FAQs that solve the questions sellers ask most.

What the Odometer Disclosure Statement Is and Who Must File It

The odometer disclosure statement is a sworn record of a vehicle’s mileage at the moment of sale. It exists because federal law, the Truth in Mileage Act under 49 CFR Part 580, requires the seller to give the buyer a written mileage statement during any transfer of ownership. Wisconsin carries this rule into state law through Wis. Stat. § 342.06 and the rules in Trans 154. The Wisconsin Division of Motor Vehicles (DMV) receives the completed statement when the buyer applies for a new title.

The seller, called the transferor, must complete and sign the statement. The buyer, called the transferee, must also sign to confirm they received it. This applies to private individuals and licensed dealers alike. A backyard sale between two neighbors carries the same duty as a sale on a dealer lot.

The statement protects the buyer from fraud and protects the seller from later claims. Skipping it or filling it out wrong is not a minor slip. The completed odometer disclosure must be physically delivered by the transferor to the transferee at the time ownership transfers.

A plain-English way to see it: the title is the deed to your car, and the odometer box is the part where you swear how many miles are on it. If you violate the disclosure rule, the buyer can sue and the DMV can refuse to issue a clean title. Picture Diane, who sold her sedan and left the box blank; her buyer could not register the car and came back demanding she fix the paperwork. A common misconception is that this rule is only for dealers, but private sellers are bound by the exact same law.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

Gather everything before you touch the title, because once you write in the odometer box you cannot erase it. An erasure or alteration makes the title invalid, as the DMV warns on its odometer tampering page. Walking in prepared prevents the single most expensive error in this whole process.

Here is your pre-filing checklist:

• The original Wisconsin Certificate of Title. The statement is printed on it, and without the title you cannot disclose mileage or transfer ownership.
• The current odometer reading. Walk to the car and read the exact number; a guess that is later corrected can look like fraud.
• The vehicle’s model year. This decides whether your car is exempt under Trans 154.05.
• The buyer’s full legal name and address. The buyer signs the same statement, so you need them present or their correct details ready.
• The seller’s full legal name as it appears on the title. A name mismatch triggers a processing hold at the DMV.
• The date of sale. The reading must reflect the mileage on that date, not a reading from weeks earlier.
• A black or blue ink pen. Pencil or erasable ink voids the document.
• The lienholder’s information, if any. If a bank holds your paper title, you may need the MV2690 Power of Attorney form.

If any item is missing, the transfer stalls. A missing odometer reading forces the buyer to chase you down after the sale, and a missing buyer signature means the DMV can reject the title application outright.

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

For nearly every private sale, you do not get a separate form at all. The odometer disclosure statement is pre-printed on the back of your Wisconsin Certificate of Title, in the assignment area where the seller signs the car over. Flip the title over and look for the line that asks for the mileage and the status boxes next to it.

You only need a standalone form in special cases. When a lienholder holds your paper title, you use the MV2690 Power of Attorney Odometer Statement so the disclosure can still happen. Wisconsin dealers working with non-conforming or out-of-state titles use the separate Odometer Disclosure Statement and Statement of Prior Use supplied through the dealer system.

Dealers and licensed agents handle disclosure electronically. Through the eMV11 system, the odometer reading is entered on screen and printed onto secure title stock, which the DMV accepts in place of a handwritten box. Private sellers cannot use eMV11; that system is for the trade.

A misconception worth clearing up: many sellers search online for a “Wisconsin odometer form” and download a generic PDF. For a standard private sale you should not use one, because the buyer’s title application relies on the disclosure printed on the official Wisconsin title itself.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Wisconsin Odometer Disclosure Statement Line by Line

Work through the statement in the exact order it appears on the back of the title. Use the precise field names printed on your title, and write in ink. Below, each field gets its own walkthrough so you know what it asks, how to answer, and what happens if you slip.

Step 1: Vehicle Identification (Year, Make, Model, and VIN)

This part asks you to confirm which vehicle the mileage belongs to. On most Wisconsin titles this information is already pre-printed at the top, so your job is to confirm it matches the car in your driveway. Check the year, make, model, body type, and the full Vehicle Identification Number.

If the title is pre-printed, you do not rewrite these fields; you simply verify them. Carlos Mendez confirms his title reads 2018 / Honda / Civic / 4-Door and that the VIN ends in the same digits stamped on his dashboard. On a standalone form like the MV2690, you copy the VIN exactly, character by character.

A common edge case is a vanity or replacement VIN plate after a repair. If the VIN on the title does not match the car, stop and call the DMV before signing anything. The most common mistake here is transposing two VIN characters on a handwritten form, and the consequence is that the DMV cannot match your statement to the vehicle record, which freezes the buyer’s title application. A misconception is that the make and model alone identify the car; only the full 17-character VIN legally ties the disclosure to that exact vehicle.

Step 2: Odometer Reading (The Mileage Box)

This field asks the single most important question: how many miles are on the car right now? You read the odometer directly and write the whole number shown, with no tenths and no commas needed. Enter the exact figure the dashboard displays on the day of sale.

Write only the digits you see. If the odometer reads 87,452, Carlos writes 87452 in the box. Do not round up, do not round down, and do not add a fraction of a mile.

The classic edge case is a six-digit odometer that has “rolled over” past 999,999 back to a low number. If that has happened, you still write what the dial shows and then you must check the box that says the reading exceeds mechanical limits, covered in Step 3. The most common mistake is letting the buyer write the number; if anyone other than the seller fills in the reading, the title can be branded “not actual” permanently, which slashes the car’s value. A widespread misconception is that you should record the highest mileage the car ever had; the law wants the current reading on the day of transfer, nothing else.

Step 3: The Odometer Status Boxes (Actual, Not Actual, Exceeds Limits)

This section asks you to certify the quality of the reading you just wrote. There are three choices, and you must check exactly one. The boxes read, in substance: the mileage is the actual mileage; the mileage is NOT the actual mileage (a warning of an odometer discrepancy); or the mileage exceeds the odometer’s mechanical limits.

Check “actual mileage” only when the odometer has never been broken, replaced, or rolled over. Carlos, whose Civic has run normally its whole life, checks the actual mileage box. Renee, whose old truck’s odometer broke and was replaced last year, checks the NOT the actual mileage box instead, because the dial no longer reflects true lifetime miles.

The tricky edge case is the rollover car: a vehicle that genuinely drove past the highest number the odometer can show. There you check exceeds the odometer’s mechanical limits, which tells the buyer the true mileage is higher than the dial reads, not that fraud occurred. The most common mistake is checking no box at all, and the consequence is an incomplete statement that the DMV rejects, sending the title back. A dangerous misconception is that checking “not actual” admits wrongdoing; it does not, and skipping it when your odometer was replaced is the real violation, since required odometer information must be recorded at the time of sale.

Step 4: Date of the Odometer Reading / Date of Sale

This field asks when you took the reading, which is the date ownership transfers. You write the date the buyer takes the car, in MM/DD/YYYY format. This date must line up with the day money changes hands and the keys are handed over.

Write the real transfer date. Carlos sells his Civic on June 5, 2026, so he writes 06/05/2026. The reading in Step 2 must be the mileage as of that exact date.

The edge case appears when you sign the title days before the buyer picks up the car. Always date the statement for the actual handover, because the mileage and date are sworn together. The common mistake is back-dating or using the date you first listed the car for sale, and the consequence is a sworn statement that does not match the odometer, which looks like tampering. A misconception is that the date is a formality; in fact it anchors the entire disclosure, since the completed disclosure must be delivered at the time ownership transfers.

Step 5: Seller (Transferor) Signature and Printed Name

This field is where you swear the disclosure is true. You sign your name and print it exactly as it appears on the front of the title. Your signature certifies, under penalty of law, that the mileage and status box you entered are accurate.

Sign in ink and print clearly beneath or beside the signature. If the title lists the owner as Carlos A. Mendez, he signs and prints Carlos A. Mendez, not a nickname. If two names appear on the title joined by “and,” both owners must sign.

The edge case is a name change after marriage or divorce. If your legal name differs from the title, you may need to sign as titled and bring supporting documents to the DMV. The most common mistake is signing a name that does not match the title, which triggers a name-match hold and stalls processing. A misconception is that a spouse or friend can sign for you; only the titled owner may sign, unless a valid power of attorney like the MV2690 is on file.

Step 6: Buyer (Transferee) Signature and Printed Name

This field confirms the buyer received the disclosure. The buyer signs and prints their full legal name to acknowledge they were given the mileage statement. Without the buyer’s signature, the federal disclosure is not legally complete.

The buyer signs in ink right after the seller. Priya Shah, buying Carlos’s Civic, signs and prints Priya Shah in the transferee line. She should sign only after she has read the mileage and status box, not before.

The edge case is a buyer purchasing for a business or another person. The signer should be the legal owner-to-be whose name will appear on the new title. The common mistake is leaving this line blank because “the buyer can sign at the DMV later,” and the consequence is a rejected title application, since both parties must sign at transfer. A misconception is that the buyer’s signature is optional; the seller must provide and the buyer must receive the written statement for the transfer to stand.

Step 7: Lienholder or Power of Attorney (When Applicable)

This step applies only when a bank or lender holds your paper title. Because you cannot write on a title you do not physically have, Wisconsin lets the disclosure happen through the MV2690 Power of Attorney Odometer Statement. It authorizes a party to disclose mileage on your behalf and is also used on the eMV11 dealer system, where the MV2690 is required if the title is held by the lienholder.

You complete the MV2690 with the same vehicle details, the odometer reading, the status box, and signatures. Renee, whose credit union holds her truck title, fills out the MV2690 with her reading of 142310 and the NOT actual box checked because of her replaced odometer.

The edge case is paying off the loan during the sale, which can release the paper title mid-transaction; ask the DMV which path applies before signing. The common mistake is ignoring the lien and writing on a title you never receive, leaving the disclosure incomplete. A misconception is that a financed car has no disclosure duty; the duty is identical, only the paperwork channel changes.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

These three walkthroughs show how different sellers complete the statement from start to finish. Each follows one named person through the title’s odometer section.

Scenario 1: Carlos Sells a Normal 2018 Civic (Actual Mileage)

Carlos is a private seller with a clean, working odometer and a paper title in hand. This is the most common case in Wisconsin.

Form Section	What Carlos Enters
Year / Make / Model	Confirms pre-printed 2018 / Honda / Civic
VIN	Verifies it matches the dashboard plate
Odometer Reading	87452
Status Box	Checks actual mileage
Date of Reading	06/05/2026
Seller Signature	Signs and prints Carlos A. Mendez
Seller Address	His current Madison address
Buyer Signature	Buyer Priya Shah signs and prints her name

Scenario 2: Diane Sells a 2009 Pickup (Exempt Vehicle)

Diane’s truck is a 2009 model year, which is old enough to be exempt. Under Trans 154.05, a vehicle model year 2010 or older transferred after January 1, 2020 is exempt from odometer disclosure.

Form Section	What Diane Enters
Year / Make / Model	Confirms 2009 / Ford / F-150
VIN	Verifies the pre-printed VIN
Odometer Reading	Leaves blank — vehicle is exempt
Status Box	Leaves unchecked — exempt
Date of Reading	Not required for the odometer box
Seller Signature	Still signs the title to transfer ownership
Buyer Signature	Buyer signs to accept the title
Note	Disclosure exempt by model year, not the sale itself

Scenario 3: Renee Sells a Truck With a Replaced Odometer (Not Actual)

Renee’s odometer broke and was swapped out, so the dial no longer shows true lifetime miles. Her bank also holds the title, so she uses the MV2690.

Form Section	What Renee Enters
Year / Make / Model	2017 / Chevrolet / Silverado
VIN	Copied exactly onto the MV2690
Odometer Reading	142310 (current dial reading)
Status Box	Checks NOT the actual mileage
Date of Reading	06/05/2026
Seller Signature	Signs the MV2690 as transferor
Lienholder	Credit union listed as title holder
Buyer Signature	Buyer signs to acknowledge the discrepancy

How to File the Completed Form

You do not mail the odometer statement on its own. It travels with the title to the DMV when the buyer applies for a new title and registration. Wisconsin offers several channels, and the completed title with odometer reading is the core document in each.

• Paper by mail. The buyer mails the signed title with the odometer section completed, the title fee, and registration fees to Wisconsin DMV, P.O. Box 7949, Madison, WI 53707-7949. The base title fee is $164.50 for most vehicles, payable by check; keep a copy of the completed title and a tracking receipt as your proof.
• eMV Public (online). The buyer applies at eMV Public and enters the odometer reading the seller wrote on the title. Pay by card or e-check, expect faster processing than mail, and save the confirmation page as proof.
• In person at a DMV service center. Bring the completed title to any DMV service center, pay the fee by card, cash, or check, and receive a stamped receipt as proof of filing.
• eMV11 (dealers and agents). Licensed dealers process the disclosure electronically and print to secure stock, with fees handled through their DMV account.

If the seller did not complete the odometer portion, the eMV Public application cannot proceed cleanly, so confirm the box is filled before you submit anything.

What Happens After You File

Once the DMV accepts the application, it records the disclosed mileage in the vehicle’s permanent title history. The mileage and status box you checked follow that car for life, which is why an “actual” versus “not actual” choice matters so much. The DMV then issues a new title in the buyer’s name, usually within a few weeks for mail and faster for online filings.

The mileage figure becomes part of the state and national record that future buyers and the DMV can check against. If a later reading is lower than what you disclosed, that gap is exactly what flags a possible rollback, which is how the DMV found roughly 6,000 suspect vehicles. The DMV must retain electronic odometer disclosure statements for at least 5 years.

If something is wrong, the application gets rejected and mailed back with a note. The buyer then cannot register or legally drive the car until the seller helps correct the record. A title with an erasure in the odometer box is treated as invalid and may require a duplicate title and a fresh statement.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form

Each error below carries a direct consequence, so read them before you sign.

• Letting the buyer write the odometer reading; this can brand the title “not actual” forever.
• Leaving all three status boxes unchecked; the DMV rejects an incomplete statement.
• Erasing or writing over the mileage; an alteration makes the entire title invalid.
• Using pencil or erasable ink; the document is voided as unreliable.
• Rounding the mileage up or down; a mismatch with later readings looks like fraud.
• Signing a name that does not match the title; this triggers a name-match processing hold.
• Forgetting the buyer’s signature; the federal disclosure is legally incomplete.
• Back-dating the date of reading; a date that conflicts with the mileage suggests tampering.
• Checking “actual mileage” after the odometer was replaced; this is a false certification.
• Transposing VIN digits on a standalone form; the DMV cannot match the statement to the vehicle.
• Writing on a title held by a lienholder you never received; the disclosure stays incomplete.
• Assuming an old car needs no statement when it is not actually exempt; the title application stalls.

Do’s and Don’ts

Do:

• Do read the odometer in person on the day of sale, so the number is exact.
• Do write in black or blue ink, because the DMV needs a permanent record.
• Do check exactly one status box, since one is always required for non-exempt cars.
• Do confirm your name matches the title before signing, to avoid a hold.
• Do have the buyer sign at transfer, because both signatures complete the disclosure.
• Do keep a copy of the completed title, so you have proof of what you disclosed.

Don’t:

• Don’t let the buyer fill in the mileage, or the title can be ruined.
• Don’t erase or correct the box; start over with a duplicate title instead.
• Don’t guess the mileage, because an inaccurate sworn figure is a violation.
• Don’t skip the date, since it anchors the whole statement.
• Don’t sign for another owner without a valid power of attorney like the MV2690.
• Don’t ignore a lienholder; use the right form when a bank holds your title.

Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help

Most private sellers handle the statement themselves, but dealers and busy sellers sometimes use a service or licensed agent. Weigh these points before deciding.

Pros of filing on your own:

• You save money, since there is no agent or service fee.
• You control the reading and signatures, so nothing is mis-keyed by a third party.
• A standard private sale is simple, with only a handful of fields.
• You learn the process, which helps with future sales.
• You avoid sharing personal details with an extra party.

Cons of filing on your own:

• You bear the full risk if you check the wrong status box.
• A single erasure can void the title and cost you a duplicate.
• You must understand exemptions yourself, which trips up many sellers.
• Lienholder and out-of-state cases get complex fast.
• A rejected application means you must coordinate fixes with the buyer later.

Wisconsin Title Statement vs. MV2690 Power of Attorney

These two paths handle the same disclosure but apply in different situations.

Wisconsin Title Statement	MV2690 Power of Attorney Odometer Statement
Used when the seller holds the paper title	Used when a lienholder holds the paper title
Printed on the back of the title	A separate form you download and complete
Seller and buyer sign directly on the title	Authorizes disclosure when the title is unavailable
Standard for most private sales	Common in financed sales and dealer eMV11 deals

Key Agencies, Statutes, and Related Forms

Several entities shape this one small box. The Wisconsin Division of Motor Vehicles receives the statement and issues the new title. The disclosure duty comes from Wis. Stat. § 342.06 and the detailed rules in Trans 154, which list both the requirements and the exemptions. At the federal level, the Truth in Mileage Act and 49 CFR Part 580 set the national baseline that Wisconsin follows.

One related obligation often gets missed: the seller’s separate duty to report the sale. Through Seller Notify, the seller must report the sale within 30 days and include the VIN, the buyer’s identity, and the date of sale. This is not the odometer statement, but it protects you from tickets and tolls run up by the new owner before they register the car.

FAQs

Do I write my name or the buyer’s name in the seller line?

Yes — you write your own name in the seller (transferor) line, exactly as it appears on the front of the title, and the buyer signs only the transferee line.

Can the buyer fill in the odometer reading for me?

No — only the seller may enter the mileage. If the buyer writes it, the title can be permanently branded “not actual,” which lowers the car’s value.

Do I check a status box if my mileage is normal and accurate?

Yes — you must check the “actual mileage” box. Leaving all three boxes blank makes the statement incomplete and the DMV will reject it.

Is my older car exempt from the odometer statement?

Yes — a model year 2010 or older vehicle transferred after January 1, 2020 is exempt, as are vehicles rated over 16,000 pounds.

Do I write the mileage with a comma or decimal?

No — write only the whole digits the odometer shows, with no commas and no tenths. A reading of 87,452 is entered as 87452.

Can I fix a wrong number by writing over it?

No — never erase or write over the box. An alteration voids the entire title, and you will need a duplicate title and a fresh statement.

Do both owners need to sign if the title lists two names?

Yes — when the title joins two owners with “and,” both must sign the disclosure. One signature alone leaves the transfer incomplete.

Is the buyer’s signature really required?

Yes — the buyer must sign to confirm they received the statement. Without it, the federal disclosure is not legally complete and the title application can fail.

Does checking “not actual mileage” mean I committed fraud?

No — it simply warns the buyer of an odometer discrepancy, such as a replaced unit. Hiding that fact is the real violation, not disclosing it.

Can my spouse sign the odometer statement for me?

No — only the titled owner may sign, unless a valid MV2690 power of attorney authorizes someone else to disclose on your behalf.

Do I file the odometer statement separately from the title?

No — it stays on the title and travels with it when the buyer applies for a new title through eMV Public, mail, or a service center.

Does filling out the odometer box satisfy my duty to report the sale?

No — it is separate. You must also report the sale within 30 days through Seller Notify to protect yourself from the buyer’s later violations.