The Wyoming Odometer Disclosure Statement is the form a vehicle seller uses to record a car’s mileage in writing when ownership changes hands, and any private seller, dealer, or person gifting a titled vehicle in Wyoming must complete it. The form protects the buyer from mileage fraud and gives the Wyoming county clerk a sworn mileage record to attach to the new Wyoming Certificate of Title. Get the mileage wrong, sign the wrong line, or fudge the number, and the title transfer stalls or, worse, you face fines and even prison time.
Odometer fraud is not a small problem. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration estimates that more than 450,000 vehicles are sold each year in the United States with rolled-back or false odometer readings, costing buyers over $1 billion. That single sworn line on your Wyoming form is the legal wall standing between an honest sale and a federal crime.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📋 What the Wyoming Odometer Disclosure Statement is and exactly who has to file it
- 🖊️ How to fill out every box, line, and signature block without triggering a rejection
- 🚗 Three real-world walkthroughs showing what honest sellers actually write
- ⚠️ The most common field-level mistakes and the exact consequence of each one
- ✅ How to file the form with your county clerk and what happens after you hand it over
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Wyoming Odometer Disclosure Statement is a sworn, written record of a vehicle’s mileage at the moment of sale or transfer. Wyoming county clerks distribute it on the federal FST-306 (04/89) layout, and many counties print their own version, such as Laramie County’s form 020-021 (R 5/2021). The revision date is printed in the bottom corner of the page, so check it to confirm you hold the current sheet. The form exists because both federal and Wyoming law treat a vehicle’s mileage as a material fact in any sale.
The rule traces back to the federal Truth in Mileage Act of 1986, which Congress passed to stop sellers from “rolling back” odometers. In plain English, the law says you must tell the buyer the real mileage in writing. Ignore it and you can face federal fines and prison, because a false odometer statement is a federal offense. For example, a seller named Dwight knocks 40,000 miles off his truck to ask a higher price, gets caught, and now faces both a civil lawsuit from the buyer and a federal fraud charge. A common misconception is that the law only applies to dealers, but it binds every private seller too.
You must file this form whenever you transfer a titled vehicle that is not exempt. Wyoming and federal rules require disclosure for model-year 2011 and newer vehicles, a requirement that took effect January 1, 2021, under the rolling 20-year federal exemption schedule. Older vehicles, very heavy trucks over 16,000 pounds, and vehicles without a motor are generally exempt. The county clerk who receives your title application is the agency that collects and files this form alongside your title paperwork.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gathering your facts before you pick up a pen keeps the form clean and stops you from guessing. A guess on a sworn document is how honest people accidentally commit fraud. Here is everything to collect first.
- The current odometer reading. Walk to the car and read the dash. If you write a number from memory and it is wrong, the buyer can later claim you lied.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Copy it from the dash plate or the existing title. A single wrong digit makes the form describe a different car, and the clerk will reject it.
- The vehicle’s year, make, model, and body type. Pull these from the title. A mismatch with the title triggers a hold while the clerk verifies the vehicle.
- The seller’s full legal name and street address. This must match the name on the title being signed over, or the transfer chain breaks.
- The buyer’s full legal name and street address. The buyer signs too, so they must be present or available to sign.
- The existing Wyoming Certificate of Title. The disclosure travels with the title, so you cannot complete the transfer without it.
- The date of the sale. The disclosure date should match the day ownership actually changes.
- A working pen, blue or black ink. Pencil and erasable ink are not accepted on sworn documents because they can be altered.
If any item is missing, the safest move is to stop and get it. A blank VIN box or a missing buyer signature sends the whole title packet back to you, and in Wyoming a delayed transfer can mean late title penalties for the buyer.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You get the Wyoming Odometer Disclosure Statement from your county clerk, not from a central state website, because Wyoming handles titles at the county level. You can download it from your county clerk’s title page, such as the Laramie County title forms page, or pick up a paper copy at the clerk’s counter. Counties such as Converse, Teton, Albany, and Campbell all post their own copies online.
There are two ways to make a valid disclosure in Wyoming, and you should know both. The first is the disclosure block printed on the back of the Wyoming Certificate of Title itself, which you fill in when you sign the car over. The second is this standalone Odometer Disclosure Statement, which clerks use when the title has no space left, when the title is held by a lienholder, or when an out-of-state title is involved. Both carry the same legal weight.
Print the form single-sided on plain white paper if you download it. Do not shrink it to fit, because clerks scan these documents and a reduced form can cut off the box numbers. If you are unsure which county handles your title, it is the county where the buyer lives, since the buyer titles the car where they reside.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Wyoming Odometer Disclosure Statement Line by Line
Work top to bottom and fill every applicable box. The form is short, but each line is a sworn statement, so accuracy beats speed. Below is each field in the order it appears on the Laramie County version, which carries the fullest set of certification boxes.
1. “I, [Name of Person Making Disclosure]”
This top line asks who is making the mileage statement, which is the seller. Print the seller’s full legal name exactly as it appears on the title being signed over, in clear letters. For example, James R. Calloway prints his name here, not “Jim” or “J. Calloway.” If two people are listed as owners on the title, the person who is selling and signing prints their name, and a co-owner may need to sign as well. A common mistake is using a nickname, which creates a name mismatch with the title and forces the clerk to send the packet back. Many sellers wrongly think this line is the same as the signature line, but it is the printed-name line and both are required.
2. “The Odometer Now Reads [Number] (No Tenths) Miles”
This field asks for the exact number showing on the dashboard odometer right now. Write the whole-mile number only and ignore the tenths digit, since the form says (no tenths) in plain print. For example, if the dash shows 84,732.6 miles, James writes 84732, not 84732.6 and not 85000. The biggest edge case is a digital dash that needs the ignition on to display, so turn the key to read it. The most common mistake is rounding up or down, which creates a false statement, and even an honest round-up can be treated as misreporting. A frequent misconception is that you should include the tenths to be precise, but the form forbids it.
3. Certification Boxes (1) Through (5)
Below the mileage line sit several checkboxes, and you check one only if the plain mileage statement is not fully true. If the odometer reading is the real, accurate mileage, you leave every box blank, which is the normal case. Box (2) is checked when the odometer has rolled past its mechanical limits, meaning a 5-digit odometer that has passed 99,999 and started over. Box (3) is checked when the reading is NOT the actual mileage, which is the official “WARNING – ODOMETER DISCREPANCY” flag. Box (5) is checked when the vehicle is exempt from mileage disclosure, such as a pre-2011 model. For example, Maria sells a 1998 truck whose odometer broke years ago, so she checks Box (3). The most common mistake here is checking a box out of confusion when the mileage is fine, which permanently brands the title as “not actual” and slashes the car’s value. People wrongly believe checking a box is a safe “just in case” move, but it is a sworn flag that follows the vehicle forever.
4. Vehicle Description: Make, Model, Body Type
This section asks you to identify the exact vehicle by its MAKE, MODEL, and BODY TYPE. Copy these straight from the face of the Wyoming title so they match word for word. For example, James writes Ford for make, F-150 for model, and Pickup for body type. The edge case to watch is trim levels, where the title may list only “Ford” and “Truck,” so match the title rather than the brochure. A common mistake is writing the model the way buyers say it (“F150” with no dash) when the title shows it differently, which can cause a description mismatch. Many sellers think the VIN alone is enough, but the clerk cross-checks every description field against the title.
5. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the full 17-character VIN that uniquely identifies the vehicle. Copy it one character at a time from the title, and double-check the digits that are easy to confuse, such as the number 0 and the letter O, or the number 1 and the letter I. For example, James writes 1FTFW1ET5DFA12345 and then reads it back against the title. The edge case is older or specialty vehicles with VINs shorter than 17 characters, which is normal for pre-1981 cars. A single wrong character is the most common and most damaging mistake, because it makes the sworn statement describe a different vehicle and voids the disclosure. Some sellers think a partial VIN is acceptable, but the clerk requires the complete number.
6. Year
This box asks for the vehicle’s model year, which controls whether disclosure is even required. Enter the four-digit year from the title, such as 2013. The key nuance is the 2011-and-newer rule, since a model-year 2011 or later vehicle must have a completed disclosure, while older vehicles are usually exempt. For example, James enters 2013, confirming his truck needs the form. The common mistake is confusing model year with the year of purchase, which can wrongly make a seller think an exempt car needs the form or that a required car does not. A frequent misconception is that “year” means the year you bought the car, but it means the manufacturer’s model year printed on the title.
7. Transferor’s (Seller’s) Signature
This line is where the seller signs to swear the mileage is true under penalty of law. Sign in ink exactly as your name appears, and do not print here, since this is the legal signature line. For example, James R. Calloway writes his actual cursive or signed name. The edge case is a vehicle owned by an estate or business, where an executor or officer signs and notes their title. The most common mistake is leaving this blank or signing the buyer’s line, which makes the disclosure invalid and unenforceable. People wrongly think a printed name counts as a signature, but the clerk needs both a printed name and a separate signature.
8. Transferor’s Printed Name, Street Address, City, State, ZIP
This block asks for the seller’s printed name and full mailing address. Print clearly and use a street address; on the federal FST-306 version there are separate lines for the seller’s address. For example, James prints James R. Calloway, then 1420 Pioneer Ave, Cheyenne, WY 82001. The edge case is a P.O. Box, which some counties accept for mailing but not as a physical address, so add a street address if asked. The common mistake is skipping the printed name because you already signed, which leaves the clerk unable to read your name and stalls the file. Many sellers think the address is optional, but it ties the sworn statement to a real, locatable person.
9. Transferee’s (Buyer’s) Signature and “I Am Aware” Acknowledgment
This line is where the buyer signs to acknowledge they received and accept the seller’s mileage statement. The buyer signs in ink under the line that reads “I am aware of the above odometer certification made by the seller.” For example, Carlos Mendez signs here the day he buys the truck. The edge case is a buyer who is not present, which means the sale cannot be fully disclosed until both parties sign, so plan to sign together. The most common mistake is the buyer skipping this signature, which voids the disclosure because the law requires both transferor and transferee to sign. A misconception is that only the seller needs to sign, but federal law requires the buyer’s signature too.
10. Transferee’s Printed Name, Street Address, City, State, ZIP
This block asks for the buyer’s printed name and full address, which becomes the new owner’s record. The buyer prints their legal name and street address exactly as it will appear on the new title. For example, Carlos Mendez prints Carlos Mendez and 755 Maple St, Laramie, WY 82070. The edge case is two buyers titling jointly, where both may need to print and sign. The common mistake is the buyer using an old address, which then mismatches their new title and registration. Buyers often think their address here does not matter, but the county uses it to confirm the correct titling county.
11. Date of Disclosure Statement
This field asks for the date the disclosure is made, which should be the day ownership transfers. Write the full date, such as 03/14/2026, using the MM/DD/YYYY format. The nuance is that the disclosure date, the sale date on the bill of sale, and the title assignment date should all line up. For example, James and Carlos both date the form 03/14/2026, the day money and keys change hands. The common mistake is backdating or postdating, which can look like an attempt to hide a later mileage change. A misconception is that the date is a formality, but a mismatched date can trigger questions about when the odometer was actually read.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
These three walkthroughs show what honest Wyoming sellers actually write. Each follows one person through the full form so you can copy the pattern that fits your sale.
Scenario 1 — Standard private sale of a 2018 sedan (James Calloway sells to Carlos Mendez). James sells a clean, accurate-mileage Honda and leaves all certification boxes blank.
| Form Section | What James Enters |
|---|---|
| Name making disclosure (printed) | James R. Calloway |
| Odometer reads (no tenths) | 84732 |
| Certification boxes (1)–(5) | All left blank, mileage is actual |
| Make | Honda |
| Model | Accord |
| Body type | Sedan |
| VIN | 1HGCV1F34JA123456 |
| Year | 2018 |
| Seller signature / printed name | James R. Calloway (signed and printed) |
| Buyer signature / printed name | Carlos Mendez (signed and printed) |
| Date of disclosure | 03/14/2026 |
Scenario 2 — High-mileage vehicle past mechanical limits (Maria Vega sells to Tom Reyes). Maria’s older truck has a 5-digit odometer that rolled over, so she checks the mechanical-limits box.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Name making disclosure (printed) | Maria L. Vega |
| Odometer reads (no tenths) | 32140 |
| Certification box checked | Box (2), exceeds mechanical limits |
| Make | Chevrolet |
| Model | Silverado |
| Body type | Pickup |
| VIN | 1GCEK14T85Z123456 |
| Year | 2015 |
| Seller signature / printed name | Maria L. Vega (signed and printed) |
| Buyer signature / printed name | Tom Reyes (signed and printed) |
| Date of disclosure | 04/02/2026 |
Scenario 3 — Vehicle with a known odometer discrepancy (Aisha Brown sells to Daniel Cole). Aisha replaced a broken cluster, so the reading is not the true lifetime mileage, and she flags it.
| Form Section | What Aisha Enters |
|---|---|
| Name making disclosure (printed) | Aisha N. Brown |
| Odometer reads (no tenths) | 11890 |
| Certification box checked | Box (3), NOT actual mileage |
| Make | Toyota |
| Model | Camry |
| Body type | Sedan |
| VIN | 4T1BF1FK5HU123456 |
| Year | 2017 |
| Seller signature / printed name | Aisha N. Brown (signed and printed) |
| Buyer signature / printed name | Daniel Cole (signed and printed) |
| Date of disclosure | 05/19/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
You file the Odometer Disclosure Statement with the county clerk in the county where the buyer lives, as part of the full title transfer packet. Wyoming does not file this form online with WYDOT, because titles are processed in person at the county level. Bring the signed disclosure together with the assigned title, a bill of sale, and proof of identity.
- In person at the county clerk’s office. This is the standard channel. For Laramie County, the address is the Laramie County Clerk, and titles can be reached at (307) 633-4247. There is no separate fee for the disclosure itself; it rides with the title fee, which in Wyoming is a modest flat charge plus any sales tax due. Accepted payment is usually cash, check, or card, and processing of a clean title packet often happens same-day at the counter. Keep your stamped copy as proof of filing.
- By mail to the county clerk. Some counties accept mailed title packets, such as the Laramie County Clerk at PO Box 608, Cheyenne, WY 82003-0608. Include all original signed documents and a check for fees, and expect processing to take longer than in person. Mail tracking is your proof of filing, so use a trackable service.
- By fax for questions only. Counties like Laramie publish a fax line at (307) 633-4240 for document questions, but you cannot complete a title transfer by fax because original signatures are required. Use fax to confirm requirements, then file the originals.
Whatever channel you choose, the buyer is the one who submits the packet, since the buyer is the one titling the vehicle in their county.
What Happens After You File
Once the clerk accepts your packet, the mileage statement becomes a permanent part of the vehicle’s title record. The clerk enters the disclosed mileage into the Wyoming title system and issues a new Certificate of Title in the buyer’s name. If you checked Box (3) for “not actual mileage,” the new title carries a permanent “not actual” brand, which stays with the car through every future sale.
Processing time varies by county and by how busy the office is. A clean in-person packet is often finished the same day, while mailed packets can take one to several weeks. The buyer should also register and get plates at the same visit, since titling and registration go together in Wyoming.
If the clerk spots a problem, such as a missing signature, a VIN mismatch, or an unreadable mileage figure, the packet is rejected and returned for correction. That delay matters because Wyoming gives buyers a limited window to title a vehicle before late penalties apply. Keeping your stamped copy lets you prove you filed on time if a dispute ever comes up.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Each line is sworn, so small errors carry real weight. Watch for these.
- Rounding the mileage. Writing 85,000 instead of 84,732 creates a false statement that can void the sale.
- Including tenths. Adding the .6 when the form says “no tenths” can cause the clerk to reject the entry.
- Checking a certification box by mistake. Flagging “not actual” on a good car permanently brands the title and cuts its value.
- Leaving all boxes blank when one applies. Failing to flag a true discrepancy is itself odometer fraud.
- A wrong VIN digit. One bad character makes the form describe a different vehicle and voids the disclosure.
- Using a nickname. A name that does not match the title breaks the ownership chain and forces a redo.
- Missing the buyer’s signature. Federal law requires both parties to sign, so a missing buyer signature voids the form.
- Signing on the wrong line. Swapping the seller and buyer signature lines makes the disclosure invalid.
- Using pencil or erasable ink. Clerks reject alterable ink on sworn documents because it can be changed.
- Backdating or postdating. A date that does not match the sale can look like an attempt to hide a mileage change.
- Leaving the address blank. A missing address means the sworn statement cannot be tied to a real person, stalling the file.
Do’s and Don’ts
These quick rules keep your form clean and your sale legal.
Do:
- Read the odometer in person right before you sign, because a guessed number can become a false statement.
- Match every field to the title word for word, since the clerk cross-checks them.
- Sign and print your name in both required spots, as the law needs each one.
- Use blue or black ink, because sworn documents must be permanent.
- Keep a stamped copy after filing, since it is your proof of an honest, timely sale.
Don’t:
- Don’t round or estimate the mileage, because even an honest round can be treated as fraud.
- Don’t check a certification box “just in case,” since each box is a permanent sworn flag.
- Don’t let the buyer skip their signature, because the disclosure is void without it.
- Don’t use correction fluid, since clerks reject altered sworn documents.
- Don’t backdate the form, because a mismatched date raises fraud questions.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most private sellers complete this short form themselves, but some use a dealer or title service. Here is the trade-off.
Pros of filing on your own:
- It is free, since you avoid any service fee.
- It is fast for a simple, accurate-mileage sale.
- You control the details and read the odometer yourself.
- The form is short, so the learning curve is small.
- You keep the originals and your own proof of filing.
Cons of filing on your own:
- A single field error can void the disclosure and delay the title.
- You carry full legal responsibility for the sworn statement.
- Discrepancy and exemption boxes confuse many first-time sellers.
- A wrong certification box can permanently brand the title.
- You must coordinate both signatures yourself.
Title-Back Disclosure vs. Standalone Form
Both methods are legal, but each fits a different situation. Use this quick comparison to pick the right one.
| Title-Back Disclosure Block | Standalone Odometer Disclosure Statement |
|---|---|
| Printed on the back of the Wyoming title | A separate sheet from the county clerk |
| Used when the title has open disclosure space | Used when the title is full, held by a lienholder, or out of state |
| Filled in during the title assignment | Filled in and attached to the title packet |
| Same legal weight as the standalone form | Same legal weight as the title-back block |
FAQs
Do I write my maiden name or married name in the seller name box?
No. Use the exact name printed on the Wyoming title being signed over. If the title shows your married name, write that, since the name must match for the transfer to process.
Do I include the tenths digit in the mileage box?
No. The form says “no tenths,” so write only whole miles. Adding the decimal can cause the clerk to reject the entry.
Do I need to check a certification box if my mileage is accurate?
No. Leave all boxes blank when the reading is the true mileage. Checking a box wrongly brands the title as “not actual” forever.
Does the buyer also have to sign the form?
Yes. Federal law requires both seller and buyer to sign. A missing buyer signature voids the disclosure and stalls the title.
Is the odometer disclosure required for my older car?
No, if it is generally older than the 2011 model year, since pre-2011 vehicles are usually exempt under the rolling 20-year federal rule.
Do I file this form online with WYDOT?
No. You file it in person or by mail with your county clerk, because Wyoming processes titles at the county level.
Is there a separate fee for the odometer disclosure?
No. The disclosure carries no standalone fee; it is filed with the title packet and the normal title fee.
Do I write the model year or the year I bought the car?
No, never the purchase year. Write the manufacturer’s model year printed on the title, since that controls whether disclosure is required.
Can I use pencil to fill out the form?
No. Use blue or black ink only. Clerks reject pencil or erasable ink on sworn documents because they can be altered.
Does Box (3) lower my car’s value?
Yes. Checking the “NOT actual mileage” box permanently brands the title with a discrepancy warning, which lowers resale value.
Can I complete the title transfer by fax?
No. Fax is only for questions. Original signatures are required, so you must file the original signed documents in person or by mail.
Will a false odometer statement really lead to penalties?
Yes. Under Wyoming Statute 31-4-102 and federal law, falsifying titling documents can bring fines up to $5,000 and up to two years in prison.
Do both co-owners need to sign if the title lists two names?
Yes, usually. When the title shows two owners joined by “and,” both must sign the disclosure for the transfer to be valid.
What if the buyer is not present at the sale?
No valid disclosure is complete without the buyer’s signature, so arrange to sign together or have the buyer sign before titling.
Related reading
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- How to Fill Out the Iowa DOT Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form 411077) — With Examples + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Nevada DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the New Hampshire DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form TDMV 12) + FAQs
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