Form TC-123 is the Application for Utah Duplicate Title that any Utah vehicle owner files with the Utah State Tax Commission, Motor Vehicle Division (MVD) when the original paper title is lost, stolen, ruined, or unreadable. You file it to get a replacement title so you can prove you own the vehicle, sell it, or clear a paid-off loan. The current version is Rev. 4/26, so check the bottom-left corner of your copy to be sure you have the right one.
A missing title can stall a sale, block a loan payoff, or freeze a transfer for weeks. The MVD charges a flat $6.00 fee, and the same $6.00 covers a new title, a duplicate, or a title correction. Small errors on this short two-page form are the top reason applications bounce back, and each rejection adds days to your wait.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📄 How to fill out every box on TC-123, Part 1 and Part 2, line by line.
- 🖊️ When to sign, who must sign, and where the three signature blocks live.
- 🚗 How to handle the odometer disclosure and reassignment if you sell at the same time.
- 🏦 How to release a lien when a lender’s name still sits on your title.
- ❓ Twelve FAQs that clear up the field-level questions filers ask most.
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
TC-123 is the official MVD form that requests a duplicate certificate of title “in lieu of” one that was lost, stolen, mutilated, or made illegible. The form is governed by Utah Code Title 41, the Motor Vehicle Act, which lets the Tax Commission issue a replacement title to the recorded owner. The agency that receives and processes the form is the Motor Vehicle Division, a part of the Utah State Tax Commission. The deadline is simple: there is no fixed date, but you cannot legally transfer or sell the vehicle until you hold a valid title in hand.
You must file TC-123 if your name is on the vehicle record as owner or co-owner and the paper title is gone or damaged. A lienholder who holds the title can also request a duplicate. Dealers and lenders use it too, often when a payoff letter clears but the original title never surfaces.
The “why” matters here. The state cross-checks your name and VIN against its title database, and a duplicate replaces the old document so the old one becomes void. The consequence of skipping this form is steep: without a title, a sale is not legal, a buyer cannot register the car, and a lender cannot prove the loan is paid. Janet, a retiree who paid off her truck in 2019, learned this when she tried to sell in 2026 and found the title was never mailed to her.
A common misconception is that a duplicate title is a brand-new ownership document that erases past liens. It is not. A duplicate is an exact copy of the current record, so any lien still showing on file will still appear unless it is formally released.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form. Missing one item is the fastest way to get a rejected application and a longer wait.
- Your full legal name as it appears on the vehicle record. A name that does not match the MVD file triggers a hold while staff verify identity.
- The co-owner’s full legal name, if any. If two names are on the title, both must appear and both must sign, or the form bounces.
- Your current street and mailing address. The duplicate title mails to the address on the form, so a wrong address sends your title to the wrong door.
- The Vehicle/Hull Identification Number (VIN/HIN). One wrong character means the MVD pulls the wrong record or none at all.
- The vehicle year, make, and model. These confirm the VIN matches the right car and catch typos before processing.
- The $6.00 fee. No fee means no processing; the MVD will not start work until payment clears.
- A check or money order payable to the Utah State Tax Commission (USTC). Do not mail cash, or the office cannot safely process it.
- Lienholder details and a release, if a lien shows on file. Without the lienholder’s signature releasing interest, the duplicate keeps the lien attached.
- Odometer reading and sale details, only if you sell at the same time. Missing mileage on a vehicle under ten years old voids the federal disclosure and can stall the buyer’s registration.
- A valid photo ID. In-person filers must prove identity at the counter, and a mismatch stops the transaction.
The reason to gather these first is speed and accuracy. Each field on TC-123 maps to a record the MVD already holds, so your answers must match that record. Marcus, a first-time filer, saved a week by confirming his VIN against his insurance card before he wrote a single box.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can get TC-123 three ways, and all lead to the same official document. The fastest source is the Tax Commission’s forms library, where the current TC-123 PDF lives and can be filled on screen or printed. You can also pick up a paper copy at any DMV branch counter, or print one from the Replace Title page on the Utah DMV site.
Many owners skip the paper form entirely. Utah lets you request a duplicate title online through the Motor Vehicle Portal (MVP), which pulls your record and processes the $6.00 fee without a printed TC-123. The online route works best when there is no lien to release and no sale happening at the same time.
The “why” behind using the official PDF is version control. The MVD updates field labels and layout over time, and the current copy is marked Rev. 4/26 in the lower-left corner. Aisha downloaded an old 2011 version from a third-party site, filled it out, and had it rejected because the layout no longer matched the MVD’s current record fields.
A common misconception is that any fillable third-party copy is fine. It is safer to use the official tax.utah.gov form so you know the boxes, the certification language, and the revision date are current.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form TC-123 Line by Line
TC-123 has two parts. Part 1 is the duplicate title request, and Part 2 is the assignment and release you use only if you sell the vehicle at the same time. Fill the boxes in the order they appear, print clearly in black ink, and use all caps for names to keep the record clean.
Part 1, Section 1 — Primary Owner Name
This field asks for the name of the person or business that owns the vehicle. Write your name in last, first, middle initial order, or the full business name if a company owns the car. Print in all caps, like LOPEZ, MARIA E, so the staff can read each letter. If a business owns the vehicle, enter the legal business name exactly as it sits on the title, such as LOPEZ LANDSCAPING LLC.
The most common edge case is a name that changed after marriage or divorce. If your name no longer matches the MVD record, you cannot fix it on TC-123; a name change needs a title correction on form TC-656 first. A common mistake here is writing your nickname or a shortened name, which causes a name-mismatch hold while staff verify your identity. The misconception to drop is that “close enough” is fine, because the MVD matches your entry letter for letter against its database.
Part 1, Section 1 — Primary Owner Street and Mailing Address
This field asks where you live and where your mail goes. Enter your full street address, city, state, and ZIP code, and add a separate mailing address only if it differs from the street address. For Maria Lopez, that looks like 742 ELM ST, PROVO, UT 84601. If you get mail at a P.O. Box, put the street address on the first line and the box on the mailing line, such as PO BOX 55, PROVO, UT 84603.
The nuance is that your duplicate title mails to the address you list here, not to an old address on file. A common mistake is leaving the mailing line blank when your mail goes to a box, which can send the title to a street address where no one collects it. The misconception is that the MVD already knows your current address; it uses what you write on this form, so a stale address means a lost title.
Part 1, Section 1 — Co-owner Name and Address
This field asks for a second owner’s name and address, but only if the title lists two owners. Enter the co-owner in last, first, middle initial order, like LOPEZ, CARLOS R, and add a street or mailing address only if it differs from the primary owner’s. Leave this whole block blank if you are the sole owner.
The edge case that trips people up is how two names are joined on the title. If the title reads “Maria Lopez OR Carlos Lopez,” either owner can sign; if it reads “AND,” both must sign in Section 3. A common mistake is skipping the co-owner here but listing them as a signer below, which creates a mismatch and a rejection. The misconception is that a spouse is automatically a co-owner; only the names printed on the title count.
Part 1, Section 2 — Vehicle/Hull Identification Number (VIN/HIN)
This field asks for the unique number stamped on your vehicle or boat hull. Copy the full VIN exactly, with no spaces, such as 1HGCM82633A004352, and double-check every character. The VIN appears on the dashboard by the windshield, on the driver-side door jamb, and on your insurance card and registration.
The nuance is that a VIN mixes letters and numbers, and the letters I, O, and Q never appear in a real VIN, so a “0” is a zero and a “1” is a one. A common mistake is swapping a letter for a number, which makes the MVD pull the wrong record or none at all and stops the duplicate cold. The misconception is that the year, make, and model alone identify the car; the VIN is the true key, and it must be perfect.
Part 1, Section 2 — Year, Make, and Model
This field asks for the vehicle’s model year, manufacturer, and model name. Enter them in plain terms, like 2019, HONDA, and CR-V. For a boat or trailer, use the same approach with the maker and model shown on prior paperwork.
The edge case is a vehicle with a trim or body style that differs from the title; always match what the MVD record shows, not the marketing name on the brochure. A common mistake is guessing the year from memory, which can clash with the VIN’s built-in year code and flag the form for review. The misconception is that this section is optional filler; it is a cross-check that confirms the VIN points to the right vehicle.
Part 1, Section 3 — Owner(s) Signature and Certification
This field is the sworn statement and signature that make the form valid. By signing, you certify that the original title was lost, stolen, mutilated, or made illegible, that it was not signed over to anyone with a claim, and that you accept sole responsibility for any liability from the duplicate. Sign in the “Owner’s signature” box, write the date as 06/05/2026, and have any co-owner sign and date the second line.
The nuance is the order of names on the title again: “AND” titles need every owner’s signature, while “OR” titles need only one. A common mistake is mailing the form unsigned, which is an automatic rejection because an unsigned certification has no legal weight. The misconception is that printing your name counts as a signature; the MVD needs your actual handwritten or valid e-signature, not block letters.
Part 1, Section 4 — Lien Holder Information and Lien Release
This field handles any lender whose name still sits on your title record. If a lien shows on file, enter the lienholder’s name, title, and mailing address, then have an authorized officer sign the “Signature of lien holder (releasing interest)” line and date it. If you own the vehicle free and clear with no lien on record, leave this section blank.
The edge case is a paid-off loan that was never formally released, which is very common. Even if you finished payments years ago, the lien stays on the MVD record until the lender signs a release, so you must get that signature or a separate lien release letter on company letterhead. A common mistake is assuming a paid loan auto-clears, which leaves the lien on your duplicate and blocks a clean sale. The misconception is that you can release the lien yourself; only the lienholder or its authorized agent can sign this line.
Part 2, Section 1 — Odometer Disclosure and Reassignment of Title
Use Part 2 only if you sell the vehicle at the same time you request the duplicate; skip it entirely if you are just replacing your own title. This field asks for the mileage and transfer details that Utah Code Title 41 requires a seller to disclose. Enter the odometer reading with no tenths, like 84120, check whether the reading is in miles or kilometers, and check one box: actual mileage, in excess of mechanical limits, or not the actual mileage. Then enter the date of sale, the sale price, and sign as the selling owner.
The nuance is the federal and state rule that mileage disclosure is mandatory on vehicles under ten model years old; for older vehicles it is often exempt. A common mistake is rounding the odometer up or adding tenths, which creates a mileage discrepancy that can stall the buyer’s registration or raise fraud questions. The misconception is that the odometer line is optional paperwork; a false or missing reading can carry legal penalties under both Utah and federal law.
Part 2, Section 2 — New Owner and New Lien Holder Information
This field captures who is buying the vehicle and any new lender. Enter the new owner’s name in last, first, middle initial order, their street address, and have them sign and date the “New owner’s signature” line, like NGUYEN, DAVID T. If the buyer is financing, add the new lienholder’s name and mailing address in the lower block.
The edge case is a buyer who is also a business or who lives out of state; use the legal business name or the buyer’s true home address, since the MVD uses it to title the car in the new owner’s name. A common mistake is leaving the new owner’s signature blank, which voids the reassignment and forces a fresh transfer document. The misconception is that the seller can sign on the buyer’s behalf; the new owner must sign for themselves to accept the title.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common ways people use TC-123, each followed by a named filer through the form. The tables show what each person enters in the key boxes.
Scenario 1: Maria Lopez lost the title to her car and is keeping it.
| Form Section | What Maria Enters |
|---|---|
| Primary Owner Name | LOPEZ, MARIA E |
| Street Address | 742 ELM ST, PROVO, UT 84601 |
| Mailing Address | Same as street, left blank |
| Co-owner | Left blank, sole owner |
| VIN/HIN | 1HGCM82633A004352 |
| Year / Make / Model | 2019 / HONDA / CR-V |
| Owner’s Signature | Maria signs, dates 06/05/2026 |
| Lien Holder Section 4 | Left blank, no lien on file |
| Fee | $6.00 check to USTC |
Scenario 2: Carlos and Rosa Diaz have a mutilated title on a co-owned truck with a paid-off loan.
| Form Section | What Carlos and Rosa Enter |
|---|---|
| Primary Owner Name | DIAZ, CARLOS R |
| Co-owner Name | DIAZ, ROSA M |
| VIN/HIN | 3GCUKREC1FG217845 |
| Year / Make / Model | 2015 / CHEVROLET / SILVERADO |
| Owner’s Signature | Carlos signs and dates |
| Co-owner’s Signature | Rosa signs and dates (title reads “AND”) |
| Lien Holder Section 4 | MOUNTAIN AMERICA CREDIT UNION listed |
| Lien Release Signature | Credit union officer signs to release |
| Fee | $6.00 money order to USTC |
Scenario 3: David Nguyen requests a duplicate and sells the car the same day to a buyer who is financing.
| Form Section | What David Enters |
|---|---|
| Primary Owner Name | NGUYEN, DAVID T |
| VIN/HIN | JTDKN3DU0E1701234 |
| Year / Make / Model | 2014 / TOYOTA / PRIUS |
| Owner’s Signature (Part 1) | David signs and dates |
| Odometer Reading (Part 2) | 96580, miles, actual mileage |
| Date of Sale / Sale Price | 06/05/2026 / $11,500 |
| New Owner Name | PARK, SUNG H |
| New Owner’s Signature | Sung signs and dates to accept |
| New Lien Holder | ZIONS BANK listed with address |
How to File the Completed Form
You can file TC-123 three ways, and each has its own steps, fee, and proof to keep.
By mail. Send the completed form and the $6.00 fee to the Motor Vehicle Division, Contact Center, P.O. Box 30412, Salt Lake City, UT 84130. Pay by check or money order payable to the Utah State Tax Commission (USTC), and never mail cash. Mail processing usually runs one to three weeks, so keep a photocopy of the signed form and your mailing receipt as proof.
In person. Bring the completed TC-123, your photo ID, and the $6.00 fee to any DMV branch. Branches accept cash, check, money order, and most cards, and many can print the duplicate title the same day if there is no lien or record problem. Keep your receipt as proof of filing.
Online. Skip the paper form and request the duplicate through MVP, the Motor Vehicle Portal. The portal charges the same $6.00, accepts card payment, and mails the title to your address on file, with the confirmation page serving as your proof. The online route fits owners with no lien to release and no same-day sale.
The “why” is that each channel ends at the same MVD record, so pick the one that matches your situation. Aisha, who had a clean record and no lien, used the online portal and skipped the form completely.
What Happens After You File
Once the MVD accepts your form and fee, it voids the old title and prints a new duplicate certificate. The duplicate mails to the address you listed on the form, and the old title, if it ever turns up, is no longer valid. Mailed and online requests generally arrive within one to three weeks, while in-person branch visits can often produce the title the same day.
If a problem appears, such as a name mismatch, a VIN error, or an unreleased lien, the MVD holds the application and contacts you. The consequence of a hold is a longer wait and sometimes a fresh form. Janet, whose paid-off lien was never released, had to get a release letter from her old lender before the duplicate could print.
A common misconception is that the duplicate is a second valid title you can use alongside the original. It is not; issuing the duplicate cancels the original, so you cannot legally use both. If the lost original later appears, destroy it to avoid confusion in a future sale.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Wrong VIN. A single mistyped character pulls the wrong record and stops the duplicate from printing.
- Name does not match the record. A nickname or changed name triggers an identity hold until staff verify you.
- Missing co-owner signature. On an “AND” title, one missing signature voids the whole application.
- Unsigned certification. An unsigned Section 3 is an automatic rejection with no exceptions.
- No fee or wrong payee. A missing or misaddressed $6.00 payment stalls processing until it clears.
- Mailing cash. Cash sent by mail cannot be safely processed and may be lost.
- Blank mailing address. A missing mailing line can send the title to an address no one checks.
- Ignoring a paid-off lien. A lien left on file keeps the duplicate clouded and blocks a sale.
- Filling Part 2 when not selling. Adding odometer and buyer data with no sale confuses the transfer and risks rejection.
- Wrong odometer entry. Adding tenths or rounding the mileage creates a discrepancy that can stall the buyer’s registration.
- Using an outdated form version. An old layout no longer matches MVD record fields and gets bounced.
- Altered or whited-out entries. Visible corrections can void the form, since altered information is grounds for rejection.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do print in black ink and all caps, because clean entries match the record and speed up review.
- Do confirm your VIN against your insurance card, since one wrong character stops the whole request.
- Do have every owner on an “AND” title sign, or the form has no legal weight.
- Do use the current Rev. 4/26 form, because old layouts no longer match MVD fields.
- Do keep a copy and your receipt, so you have proof if the title is lost in the mail.
- Do get a lien release in writing, since only the lender can clear a lien on file.
Don’ts
- Don’t mail cash, because the office cannot safely process it and it may vanish.
- Don’t guess the odometer reading, since a discrepancy can carry legal penalties.
- Don’t fill Part 2 unless you are selling, or you will confuse the transfer.
- Don’t use a nickname, because a name mismatch triggers an identity hold.
- Don’t white out errors, since altered entries can void the form.
- Don’t assume a paid loan auto-clears, because the lien stays until the lender signs off.
Paper Filing vs. Online Duplicate Request
Both routes cost the same $6.00 and end at the same MVD record, but they fit different situations.
| Paper TC-123 (Mail or In Person) | Online MVP Portal |
|---|---|
| Needed when a lien must be released by signature | Best when there is no lien on file |
| Required if you sell the car at the same time (Part 2) | Not built for same-day reassignment |
| In-person can print the title same day | Title mails in one to three weeks |
| Pay by check, money order, cash (in person), or card | Pays by card only |
| Useful for co-owned “AND” titles needing two signatures | Easiest for a single sole owner |
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Pros of filing on your own
- It costs only $6.00, since you skip any service fee for a short form.
- It is fast, because an in-person branch visit can print the title the same day.
- You control accuracy, as you enter your own VIN and name directly.
- The form is short, with just two pages and a handful of boxes.
- Online filing is simple when you have no lien and no sale to handle.
Cons of filing on your own
- A lien release can stump you, since you must chase the lender for a signature.
- A name change blocks you, because that needs a TC-656 correction first, not TC-123.
- A same-day sale adds Part 2 steps, which raise the odds of an odometer error.
- A small typo costs time, as a VIN or signature error means a fresh start.
- Out-of-state or business titles add nuance that a clerk or pro can untangle faster.
TC-123 vs. TC-656: Which Form Do You Need?
Filers often mix up these two title forms, and using the wrong one means a rejection. Use TC-123 only to replace a lost or damaged title with an exact duplicate. Use the TC-656 Application for Title for first-time titling, name corrections, and other ownership changes.
| Use TC-123 When | Use TC-656 When |
|---|---|
| The original title is lost, stolen, or ruined | You need a brand-new title for a vehicle |
| You need an exact copy of the current record | You are correcting or changing the name on title |
| You are releasing a lien on an existing title | You are adding or removing an owner |
| The owner and vehicle data stay the same | You are transferring a title bought out of state |
FAQs
Do I need TC-123 if I just lost my title?
Yes. File TC-123 to get a duplicate of a lost, stolen, mutilated, or illegible Utah title, or request the duplicate online through the Motor Vehicle Portal.
Does a duplicate title cost money?
Yes. The fee is a flat $6.00, the same amount Utah charges for a new title or a title correction, paid by check, money order, or card.
Do I write my maiden name or my current name in the owner box?
No. Use the exact name on the current title record; if your name changed, you must first correct it on form TC-656, not on TC-123.
Do both owners have to sign if two names are on the title?
Yes, if the title joins the names with “AND.” If it reads “OR,” only one owner must sign Section 3.
Do I fill out Part 2 if I am only replacing my own title?
No. Leave Part 2 blank unless you are selling the vehicle at the same time you request the duplicate.
Do I enter tenths in the odometer box?
No. Enter whole miles only with no tenths, like 84120, and check the box for miles or kilometers.
Do I leave Section 4 blank if I never had a loan?
Yes. Skip the lienholder section entirely if no lien shows on the MVD record for your vehicle.
Does a paid-off loan clear the lien automatically?
No. The lien stays on file until the lender signs the release in Section 4 or provides a written lien release.
Do I need to mail cash for the fee?
No. Never mail cash; send a check or money order payable to the Utah State Tax Commission to P.O. Box 30412, Salt Lake City, UT 84130.
Do I have to use the newest version of the form?
Yes. Use the current Rev. 4/26 version, since older layouts no longer match the MVD’s record fields and get rejected.
Do I get the duplicate the same day?
Yes, often at an in-person DMV branch with no lien or record issue; mail and online requests take one to three weeks.
Do I have to put the VIN if I already list the year and make?
Yes. The VIN is the true key to your record, and the year, make, and model only confirm it points to the right vehicle.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Utah DMV Application for Utah Title (TC-656) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Utah DMV Vehicle Registration Application (Form TC-656) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the District of Columbia DMV Application for a Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out North Dakota DOT Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Rhode Island DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Vermont DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs