How to Fill Out Utah DMV Bill of Sale (TC-843) (w/Examples) + FAQs

The Utah TC-843 Bill of Sale is the official Utah State Tax Commission form that records the private sale of a vehicle, boat, trailer, motorcycle, or off-highway vehicle and proves the title moved from one owner to the next. Any seller who hands over a vehicle and any buyer who wants the Division of Motor Vehicles to charge sales tax on the real price they paid should fill it out at the moment of sale.

The form looks short, but the lines that trip people up are the ones with money and miles on them. A missing odometer reading, a blank sale price, or an unsigned seller block can cost real dollars, because the DMV will tax the buyer on the vehicle’s Fair Market Value instead of the price actually paid. With used-car values often running thousands above the price a private seller accepts, getting this single page right protects both sides from fraud, tax surprises, and title delays.

Here is what you will learn in this guide:

• 📋 What every box on the TC-843 asks and how to answer it the right way
• 💰 How the sale price you write controls the sales tax the buyer pays
• 🚗 Three full filled-out examples for a car, a motorcycle, and a boat
• 🖊️ Where and how to file the form and report the sale to Utah
• ⚠️ The mistakes that cause rejected titles, tax bills, and odometer fines

What the TC-843 Is and Who Must File It

The TC-843 is a one-page bill of sale published by the Utah State Tax Commission and used by the Utah Division of Motor Vehicles to record the transfer of a vehicle between two private parties. It is not the title and it does not, by itself, register the vehicle. It is the written proof of who sold what to whom, for how much, on what date, and at what odometer reading.

The form matters most for the buyer. Under Utah’s guidance on the responsibilities of buyer and seller, when a buyer brings a signed bill of sale that meets the state’s requirements, the DMV charges sales or use tax on the net purchase price shown on that form. Without an acceptable bill of sale, the DMV charges tax on Fair Market Value set under Utah Code §59-2-102, which is often higher than what a private buyer actually paid.

The form also protects the seller. A signed TC-843 proves the seller legally transferred the vehicle on a specific date. If the buyer fails to register the car and later racks up tickets or tolls, the seller can point to the bill of sale and the sold-vehicle report as proof the car was no longer theirs.

In a private sale, the seller does not collect sales tax. The buyer pays it later, at the DMV, when titling and registering the vehicle. Dealers handle tax differently and collect it at the point of sale, so the TC-843 is mainly a private-party tool, though anyone may use it to document a transfer.

Both people must sign. A bill of sale with only the seller’s signature is weaker proof, and the current form has a dedicated buyer signature block precisely so both sides certify the price and mileage are correct.

Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need

Gather everything below before you open the form, because a blank you cannot fill turns into a guess, and a guess on a tax or odometer line can cost money or trigger a discrepancy warning.

• The vehicle title. You need the exact year, make, model, and Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) as printed on the title; a VIN that does not match the title stalls registration.
• The current odometer reading. Read it to the whole mile with no tenths before the buyer drives off, because the law requires this number and a blank can mean fines.
• The license plate number. You must state whether the plate stays with the vehicle or comes off, and a personalized plate triggers an extra form.
• The agreed sale price. This single number sets the buyer’s tax, so confirm it in writing before signing.
• Seller’s full legal name and street address. These must match the name signing off on the title so the DMV can tie the seller to the title.
• Buyer’s full legal name and street address. The DMV registers the vehicle in this exact name, so a nickname or typo creates a title that does not match the buyer’s ID.
• Trade-in details, if any. The year, make, and VIN of any trade-in vehicle, since its value can lower the taxable net price.
• The date of sale. Utah law gives the seller 48 hours to hand over the title, and this date starts that clock and proves when ownership changed.

For boats and off-highway vehicles, also have the Hull Identification Number (HIN) ready, since the same form covers vessels and the HIN goes in the same box as a VIN. If the title is lost, grab Form TC-123, the Application for Duplicate Title, before the sale so the buyer can still register the vehicle.

Where to Get the Form and How to Access It

The only version you should trust is the official PDF hosted by the Tax Commission. Download the current TC-843 Bill of Sale straight from the state’s forms server, where it appears with three labeled sections — Section 1: Vehicle, Section 2: Seller, and Section 3: Buyer. Older single-block copies float around third-party sites, and using one that lacks the separate buyer certification block can make your bill of sale weaker than the current state form.

You can fill the PDF on a computer using the form’s fillable fields, then print it for signatures, or you can print it blank and complete it by hand. If you complete it by hand, use ink and never pencil, because the DMV’s own guidance says a bill of sale should be in ink so the figures cannot be altered.

You can also pick up a paper copy at any Utah DMV office or many county clerk and assessor offices. The form is free; you never pay to download or obtain it.

The PDF includes a built-in “Clear form” button and printer-friendly layout. After filling it, the form reminds you to make a copy for your records and to report sold vehicles at mvp.tax.utah.gov, Utah’s Motor Vehicle Portal.

Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the TC-843 Line by Line

The form moves top to bottom in three sections. Work through each box in order, and do not skip a line just because it looks obvious, since the obvious lines are where most rejected forms go wrong.

Section 1: Year

What it asks in plain English. This box wants the model year of the vehicle being sold, not the year you are selling it.

How to answer it. Write the four-digit model year exactly as it appears on the title, such as 2018.

Example entry. Selling her sedan, Maria Lopez writes 2018 because that is the model year printed on her Utah title.

Nuance or edge case. A vehicle’s model year can differ from the year it was built or first sold, so always copy the year from the title, not from memory or the dealer window sticker.

Common mistake and consequence. Writing the purchase year instead of the model year creates a description that does not match the title, and the DMV can reject the transfer until you correct it.

Misconception. Some people think the year is just a formality; in fact the year, make, model, and VIN together identify the exact vehicle, and a wrong year weakens the whole document.

Section 1: Make

What it asks in plain English. This box wants the manufacturer of the vehicle.

How to answer it. Write the make as shown on the title, such as Toyota, Harley-Davidson, or Yamaha.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes Toyota for her sedan.

Nuance or edge case. For boats and off-highway vehicles, the make is the manufacturer of the vessel or machine, not the engine brand, so a boat with a Mercury motor still lists the hull maker.

Common mistake and consequence. Listing a model or sub-brand in the make box (for example Camry instead of Toyota) confuses the description and can slow the title clerk’s review.

Misconception. People assume any recognizable name works; the DMV matches the make to the title, so the title’s spelling controls.

Section 1: Model

What it asks in plain English. This box wants the model name of the vehicle.

How to answer it. Write the model exactly as on the title, such as Camry or Street Glide.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes Camry.

Nuance or edge case. If the title shows a trim or series, copy what is there; a missing trim usually does not stop the transfer, but an outright wrong model can.

Common mistake and consequence. Guessing the model when you cannot read the title leads to a mismatch, and the buyer may have to return with a corrected form.

Misconception. Some sellers think the model is optional because the VIN identifies the car; the form asks for it, and leaving it blank makes the bill of sale incomplete.

Section 1: Body Type

What it asks in plain English. This box wants the general body style of the vehicle.

How to answer it. Write a short descriptor such as 4-door sedan, pickup, motorcycle, or boat.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes 4-door sedan.

Nuance or edge case. For trailers, write utility trailer or travel trailer; for vessels, write boat or the vessel type, since the same form serves all of these.

Common mistake and consequence. Leaving body type blank is rarely fatal, but a body type that contradicts the title (calling a van a sedan) can draw extra questions at the counter.

Misconception. Filers think body type must be technical; a plain, accurate label is all the form needs.

Section 1: Vehicle/Hull Identification Number (VIN/HIN)

What it asks in plain English. This is the unique serial number that identifies the exact vehicle, car, or boat.

How to answer it. Copy every character of the VIN (or HIN for a vessel) exactly from the title, in all capital letters, with no spaces or dashes.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes 4T1BF1FK0HU123456 straight from her title.

Nuance or edge case. For a boat, this box holds the Hull Identification Number; for a homemade trailer with no VIN, the DMV may require a VIN inspection on Form TC-661 before it assigns a number.

Common mistake and consequence. A single wrong character — a zero typed as the letter O — makes the VIN fail the DMV’s cross-check, and the title transfer stalls until it matches.

Misconception. People believe the VIN on the dashboard is enough; you should match it against the title, because the title’s VIN is the one the state records.

Section 1: License Plate Number

What it asks in plain English. This box wants the plate number currently on the vehicle.

How to answer it. Write the plate characters exactly as they appear, such as X12 3YZ.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes G45 7HT.

Nuance or edge case. Whether the plate stays with the car is decided lower down in Section 2; this box just records the plate’s number for the file.

Common mistake and consequence. Recording the wrong plate, or one already surrendered, creates confusion about what was transferred and can complicate the sold-vehicle report.

Misconception. Sellers think the plate always goes with the car; in Utah, plates generally stay with the seller unless both agree otherwise and check the right box.

Section 2: Seller Name

What it asks in plain English. This is the full legal name of the person or business selling the vehicle.

How to answer it. Write it as last, first, middle initial, or use the business name, matching the name on the title.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes Lopez, Maria A.

Nuance or edge case. If the title lists two owners joined by “and,” both must be named and both must sign; if joined by “or,” only one is needed.

Common mistake and consequence. A seller name that does not match the title’s owner makes the DMV question whether the seller had the right to sell, which can freeze the transfer.

Misconception. People think a nickname or shortened name is fine; the DMV ties the seller to the title, so the legal name controls.

Section 2: Seller Street Address, City, State, ZIP Code

What it asks in plain English. This is where the seller lives or where the business is located.

How to answer it. Write the full street address, city, two-letter state, and ZIP, such as 742 Cedar St, Provo, UT 84601.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes 742 Cedar St, Provo, UT 84601.

Nuance or edge case. If you use a P.O. Box for mail, still list a physical street address where possible, because the DMV and the buyer may need to reach you to resolve a title problem.

Common mistake and consequence. An outdated or wrong address makes the seller hard to find if the buyer later disputes the sale, weakening the seller’s own protection.

Misconception. Sellers think the address does not matter once the car is sold; it anchors the record and helps prove who transferred the vehicle.

Section 2: Sale Price

What it asks in plain English. This is the dollar amount the buyer agreed to pay for the vehicle.

How to answer it. Write the agreed price in the dollar box, such as $9,500, using the net price after any trade-in is subtracted.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes $9,500 for her Camry.

Nuance or edge case. If a vehicle is traded in, note the trade-in’s year, make, and VIN, because Utah lets you subtract a titled trade-in’s value to reach the net purchase price; the value of a TV, appliance, or labor cannot reduce the price.

Common mistake and consequence. Leaving the price blank or writing an unrealistically low number invites the DMV to ignore the form and tax the buyer on Fair Market Value, which can be hundreds of dollars more.

Misconception. Buyers think a low “paper” price always saves tax; the DMV can reject a price that looks far below market and demand a certified appraisal or use Fair Market Value instead.

Section 2: Date of Sale

What it asks in plain English. This is the calendar date ownership changed hands.

How to answer it. Write the date you complete the sale, such as 06/05/2026.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes 06/05/2026.

Nuance or edge case. Utah law requires the seller to deliver a negotiable title within 48 hours of the transaction, so this date starts that clock and matters if a dispute arises.

Common mistake and consequence. Backdating or leaving the date blank muddies when responsibility shifted, and the seller could be blamed for tickets that happened after the real sale.

Misconception. People think the date is the day the buyer registers the car; it is the day of the sale itself.

Section 2: License Plate Status (Included / Not Included)

What it asks in plain English. This tells the state whether the plate listed in Section 1 goes with the vehicle or stays with the seller.

How to answer it. Check Included with the vehicle sale or Not included with the vehicle sale; check only one.

Example entry. Maria Lopez checks Not included, keeps her plate, and removes it from the car.

Nuance or edge case. If a personalized plate is included with the sale, you must also file Form TC-840, the personalized plate application, to move that plate to the new owner.

Common mistake and consequence. Leaving the plate on a sold car without checking “included” can leave the seller liable for parking or traffic violations committed by the buyer.

Misconception. Many believe plates always transfer with the car; in Utah the plate usually belongs to the person, not the vehicle.

Section 2: Odometer Reading (Required)

What it asks in plain English. This is the exact mileage showing on the vehicle when sold.

How to answer it. Write the whole-number reading with no tenths, then check Miles or Kilometers; kilometers convert to miles on the title.

Example entry. Maria Lopez writes 86,402 and checks Miles.

Nuance or edge case. A vehicle 20 years old or older does not need the separate federal odometer statement, but the TC-843 still asks for the reading, so fill it in.

Common mistake and consequence. Leaving this blank or entering a false number can lead to fines or imprisonment, since the form carries a federal-style odometer warning.

Misconception. Sellers think tenths matter; the form says no tenths, so round to the whole mile shown.

Section 2: Odometer Status (Actual / Exceeds Limits / Not Actual)

What it asks in plain English. This certifies whether the mileage you wrote is true, has rolled past the odometer’s limit, or cannot be trusted.

How to answer it. Check exactly one of The actual mileage, The mileage in excess of the odometer’s mechanical limits, or Not the actual mileage (Warning: odometer discrepancy).

Example entry. Maria Lopez checks The actual mileage for this vehicle.

Nuance or edge case. Check “exceeds mechanical limits” only for an old 5-digit odometer that has rolled past 99,999; check “not actual” if the odometer was replaced or broken.

Common mistake and consequence. Checking “actual” when you know the odometer was swapped is a false certification that can bring odometer-fraud penalties.

Misconception. People think “not actual” means the car is worthless; it simply warns the buyer the mileage cannot be verified, which is legal to sell if disclosed.

Section 2: Seller’s Signature and Date

What it asks in plain English. This is the seller’s certification, in ink, that everything above is true and that title passes free of claims except any noted lien.

How to answer it. The seller signs on the signature line and writes the date next to it.

Example entry. Maria Lopez signs and writes 06/05/2026.

Nuance or edge case. No notary is required in Utah for the TC-843 or for signing off a title, though notarizing is still a smart extra step for a high-value sale or an out-of-state buyer.

Common mistake and consequence. An unsigned seller block makes the bill of sale invalid as proof, so the DMV may fall back to Fair Market Value for the buyer’s tax.

Misconception. Sellers think a typed name counts as a signature; the line calls for an actual ink signature.

Section 3: Buyer Name

What it asks in plain English. This is the full legal name of the person or business buying the vehicle.

How to answer it. Write it as last, first, middle initial, or the business name, matching the buyer’s ID.

Example entry. Buying the Camry, David Chen writes Chen, David W.

Nuance or edge case. If two people will be on the new title, list both buyers so the registration can be issued in both names.

Common mistake and consequence. A buyer name that does not match the buyer’s government ID creates a title that the DMV cannot register without correction.

Misconception. Buyers think they can register under a nickname; the legal name on the ID is what the DMV uses.

Section 3: Buyer Street Address, City, State, ZIP Code

What it asks in plain English. This is where the buyer lives, which sets where the vehicle is registered.

How to answer it. Write the full street address, city, state, and ZIP, such as 215 Main St, Sandy, UT 84070.

Example entry. David Chen writes 215 Main St, Sandy, UT 84070.

Nuance or edge case. The local sales tax rate is based on where the buyer registers the vehicle, so the address can affect the exact tax the buyer pays.

Common mistake and consequence. A wrong county or ZIP can lead to the wrong tax rate and a corrected bill at registration.

Misconception. Buyers think the seller’s location sets the tax; for a private sale, the buyer’s registration locality controls.

Section 3: Buyer’s Signature and Date

What it asks in plain English. This is the buyer’s certification, in ink, that they know the sale price and odometer details and accept the vehicle “as is, where is.”

How to answer it. The buyer signs on the signature line and writes the date.

Example entry. David Chen signs and writes 06/05/2026.

Nuance or edge case. The “as is, where is” language means there are no warranties in a private sale, so the buyer should inspect the vehicle before signing.

Common mistake and consequence. Skipping the buyer signature leaves the form’s certification one-sided and weakens it as legal proof for both parties.

Misconception. Buyers think only the seller needs to sign; the current form has a separate buyer block on purpose.

Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios

These three walkthroughs show how different sellers and buyers complete the same form. Each follows one transaction from the vehicle box to the final signature.

Example 1: Private Sale of a Used Car (Maria sells to David)

Maria Lopez sells her 2018 Toyota Camry to David Chen for $9,500. She keeps her standard plate and reports the car sold the same day.

Form Section	What Maria and David Enter
Year / Make / Model / Body type	2018 / Toyota / Camry / 4-door sedan
VIN	4T1BF1FK0HU123456
License plate number	G45 7HT
Seller name and address	Lopez, Maria A — 742 Cedar St, Provo, UT 84601
Sale price / Date of sale	$9,500 / 06/05/2026
Plate status	Not included with the vehicle sale
Odometer reading and status	86,402 Miles — The actual mileage
Buyer name and address	Chen, David W — 215 Main St, Sandy, UT 84070
Signatures	Both sign and date 06/05/2026

Example 2: Motorcycle Sale With a Personalized Plate (Marcus sells to Aisha)

Marcus Reed sells his 2020 Harley-Davidson Street Glide to Aisha Bennett for $14,200 and agrees to transfer his personalized plate, which means he also files Form TC-840.

Form Section	What Marcus and Aisha Enter
Year / Make / Model / Body type	2020 / Harley-Davidson / Street Glide / motorcycle
VIN	1HD1KTC18LB654321
License plate number	RIDEUT
Seller name and address	Reed, Marcus J — 88 Oak Ave, Ogden, UT 84401
Sale price / Date of sale	$14,200 / 06/05/2026
Plate status	Included with the vehicle sale (TC-840 filed for personalized plate)
Odometer reading and status	12,540 Miles — The actual mileage
Buyer name and address	Bennett, Aisha R — 30 Pine Ln, Layton, UT 84041
Signatures	Both sign and date 06/05/2026

Example 3: Boat Sale Using HIN (Janet sells to Carlos)

Janet Pierce sells her 2015 fishing boat to Carlos Ortiz for $7,800. Because it is a vessel, she enters the Hull Identification Number and Carlos later titles it using Form TC-656V.

Form Section	What Janet and Carlos Enter
Year / Make / Model / Body type	2015 / Tracker / Pro Team 175 / boat
VIN / HIN	BUJ12345D515
License plate number	N/A (vessel)
Seller name and address	Pierce, Janet L — 12 Lakeview Dr, Orem, UT 84057
Sale price / Date of sale	$7,800 / 06/05/2026
Plate status	Not included with the vehicle sale
Odometer reading and status	N/A for vessel — leave odometer boxes blank
Buyer name and address	Ortiz, Carlos M — 410 River Rd, Lehi, UT 84043
Signatures	Both sign and date 06/05/2026

How to File the Completed TC-843

The TC-843 itself is not “filed” with the state like a tax return; the buyer brings it to the DMV as supporting proof when titling and registering, and the seller keeps a copy and reports the sale. Here is how each step works through every channel.

In person at a DMV office. The buyer takes the signed TC-843, the signed title, the current registration, and a VIN inspection (TC-661) if required to any Utah DMV office. The buyer pays sales or use tax based on the sale price, plus title and registration fees, and the office issues a new title and plates. Keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing. Processing at the counter is usually same-day, with the printed title mailed afterward.

By mail. A buyer titling by mail sends the signed title, completed TC-843, and Form TC-656 Application for Title with payment to the Motor Vehicle Division, P.O. Box 30412, Salt Lake City, UT 84130. Mailed applications take longer to process, so keep copies and use a trackable mailing method as your proof.

Reporting the sale (seller’s step). After the sale, the seller must report the vehicle as sold. The fastest way is online at Utah’s Motor Vehicle Portal, mvp.tax.utah.gov, using the “Report Sold Vehicle” tool, which is free. By mail, send the vehicle year, make, plate or VIN, and the owner’s signature — or a Form TC-502 to cancel registration — to the same Salt Lake City P.O. Box. By phone, call 1-800-DMV-UTAH.

There is no fee to file the TC-843 or to report a sold vehicle; the costs come from the buyer’s tax, title, and registration at the counter. The buyer’s plate fee for transferring or issuing plates is generally a small flat charge collected with registration.

What Happens After You File

Once the buyer brings an acceptable TC-843 to the DMV, the clerk calculates sales or use tax on the net purchase price shown on the form rather than on Fair Market Value, which usually lowers the buyer’s tax bill. The DMV then issues a new title in the buyer’s name and provides registration and plates.

If the bill of sale is missing, unsigned, or shows a price the DMV considers too low, the office calculates tax on Fair Market Value under Utah Code §59-2-102. The buyer can dispute that value by getting a certified appraisal from a licensed and bonded Utah dealer or an authorized insurance adjuster, and the DMV then taxes the lowest of the appraisal, the Fair Market Value, or an acceptable bill of sale.

For the seller, reporting the sale on the Motor Vehicle Portal closes their connection to the vehicle. After that report posts, the seller is protected from liability for what the buyer does with the car. Keep your copy of the TC-843 and the report confirmation indefinitely, since they are your only proof if a dispute surfaces months later.

The buyer should also confirm the title arrives in the mail and that any prior lien was released. A title still showing an unreleased lien cannot be cleanly transferred, so the buyer should verify this before handing over money.

Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form

• Leaving the sale price blank — the DMV taxes the buyer on Fair Market Value, often costing more.
• Writing an unrealistically low price — the DMV can ignore it and demand a certified appraisal.
• Leaving the odometer reading blank — the form’s warning means this can bring fines or worse.
• Entering tenths on the odometer — the form says no tenths, so the entry should be wrong-format.
• Checking “actual mileage” on a replaced odometer — that false certification risks odometer-fraud penalties.
• Forgetting to check a plate status box — the seller may stay liable for the buyer’s tickets.
• Transferring a personalized plate without Form TC-840 — the plate cannot legally move to the new owner.
• Mistyping the VIN or HIN — a single wrong character fails the DMV cross-check and stalls the title.
• Using a nickname instead of a legal name — the registration will not match the buyer’s ID.
• Skipping the buyer’s signature — the certification becomes one-sided and weaker as proof.
• Filling the form in pencil — figures can be altered, so the DMV expects ink.
• Forgetting to report the sale on the MVP portal — the seller stays linked to the vehicle.

Do’s and Don’ts

Do:

• Do copy the year, make, model, and VIN straight from the title so the description matches state records.
• Do agree on the sale price in writing before signing, because that number sets the buyer’s tax.
• Do read the odometer to the whole mile and check the correct status box to meet the legal requirement.
• Do remove your plate and check “not included” unless you truly mean to transfer it.
• Do make a copy for your records, since the form itself reminds you to.
• Do report the sale at mvp.tax.utah.gov the same day to end your liability.

Don’t:

• Don’t leave the price or odometer blank, because each blank can cost money or invite penalties.
• Don’t write a fake low price, since the DMV can override it with Fair Market Value.
• Don’t sign in pencil, as the DMV wants an ink record that cannot be changed.
• Don’t transfer a personalized plate without filing Form TC-840.
• Don’t hand over the vehicle before both parties sign and the buyer has a negotiable title.
• Don’t forget that “as is, where is” means no warranties, so inspect before you buy.

Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help

Most private buyers and sellers complete the TC-843 themselves, but a high-value or complicated sale can justify extra help.

Pros of doing it yourself:

• It is free, since the form costs nothing to download or obtain.
• It is fast for a clean private sale with a clear title.
• You control the accuracy of every box rather than relying on a third party.
• The form is short and plainly labeled in three sections.
• You keep your own proof copy and report the sale directly.

Cons of doing it yourself:

• You bear the risk of errors on the tax and odometer lines.
• You must know when extra forms like TC-840 or TC-661 apply.
• A missing or lost title can stall you without guidance.
• Disputes over price or mileage fall on you to resolve.
• An out-of-state or business sale can raise questions you may not anticipate.

TC-840 vs. TC-843: Which Plate Form Do You Need?

Situation	Form to Use
Recording the sale of the vehicle itself	TC-843 Bill of Sale
Moving a personalized plate to the new owner	TC-840 Personalized Plate Application
Proving the price the buyer paid for tax	TC-843 Bill of Sale
Keeping or surrendering a standard plate	Noted on TC-843 plate status line

FAQs

Is the TC-843 required to sell a car in Utah?

No. A bill of sale is not legally required, but without an acceptable one the DMV taxes the buyer on Fair Market Value, which usually costs more than the price actually paid.

Does the TC-843 need to be notarized?

No. Utah does not require notarization for the TC-843 or for signing off a title, though notarizing can add protection for a high-value or out-of-state sale.

Do I write the model year or the year of sale in the Year box?

No, not the year of sale. Write the vehicle’s model year exactly as it appears on the title, such as 2018, so the description matches state records.

Do I include tenths in the odometer reading?

No. The form states “no tenths,” so round to the whole mile shown, for example 86,402, before checking Miles or Kilometers.

Should I check “included” or “not included” for my license plate?

No single default fits everyone; in Utah plates usually stay with the seller, so check “not included” and remove your plate unless you both agree to transfer it.

Do I write my full legal name or a nickname in the name box?

No nicknames. Write your full legal name as last, first, middle initial matching the title or your ID, since the DMV registers the vehicle in that exact name.

Can I write any sale price I want to lower the tax?

No. The DMV can reject a price far below market and tax on Fair Market Value instead, then require a certified appraisal to dispute it.

Does the seller collect sales tax on a private sale?

No. In a private sale the buyer pays sales or use tax later at the DMV when titling and registering the vehicle, not the seller.

Is the TC-843 the same as the vehicle title?

No. The TC-843 is proof of the sale; the buyer still needs the signed negotiable title and usually Form TC-656 to register the vehicle.

Can I use the TC-843 for a boat or trailer?

Yes. The same form covers vehicles, vessels, and trailers; enter the Hull Identification Number in the VIN/HIN box for a boat.

Do both the buyer and seller have to sign?

Yes. The current form has separate seller and buyer signature blocks, and both certifying the price and mileage makes the document stronger proof.

How do I report my vehicle as sold in Utah?

Yes, you must report it; the fastest way is the “Report Sold Vehicle” tool at mvp.tax.utah.gov, or by mail or phone at 1-800-DMV-UTAH.

What if the title is lost before the sale?

Yes, there is a fix; the buyer and seller complete Form TC-123, the Application for a Duplicate Title, which can then be used to register the vehicle.

Do I need an odometer statement on an old vehicle?

No separate federal statement is needed if the vehicle is 20 years old or older, but you still fill in the odometer reading on the TC-843 itself.