The Vermont Bill of Sale and Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form VT-005) is the state document that records the sale of a motor vehicle or vessel between two parties and confirms the transfer of ownership to the new owner. Any private seller or buyer in Vermont uses this form to prove a sale really happened, lock in the purchase price, and report the odometer reading the law requires for most cars built in 2011 or newer.
You file it with the Vermont Department of Motor Vehicles as part of your registration and title paperwork, not by itself. Get one number wrong, skip a signature, or check the wrong odometer box, and the DMV can reject your whole registration packet, which pushes back your plates and your inspection deadline. Vermont’s 6% Purchase and Use Tax is calculated straight off the price you write on this form, so a sloppy entry can cost you real money or trigger a tax review against the J.D. Power clean trade-in value.
In this guide you will learn:
- 📋 What Form VT-005 is, who must file it, and the exact 01/2022 version to use
- ✍️ How to fill out every box on both sides of the form, line by line
- 👥 Three full real-world examples that walk named buyers and sellers through the form
- 💰 How the purchase price you enter drives your 6% Vermont tax bill
- ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that get packets rejected and how to dodge every one
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
Form VT-005 is Vermont’s official Bill of Sale and Odometer Disclosure Statement, issued by the Vermont DMV at 120 State Street in Montpelier. It does two jobs on one sheet. The front is the bill of sale that proves a vehicle or vessel changed hands, names the seller and buyer, and records the price. The back is the federal and state odometer disclosure, which the law treats as a separate sworn statement even though it shares the page.
The form is required because Vermont needs proof of the sale and the price before it will title and register the vehicle in the new owner’s name. The Vermont Registration, Tax & Title Application (Form VD-119) almost always travels with it, since the bill of sale alone does not register a car. Skip the VT-005 and the DMV has no clean record of who sold what, for how much, and what the mileage was, so the packet stalls.
Who must file it covers more people than buyers expect. Private sellers and buyers use it for nearly every used-car deal between individuals. Companies and dealers use it too, signing through an authorized representative. People selling boats and other vessels use the same form, since it includes hull and vessel-length fields. Anyone selling a salvage, salvage-and-rebuilt, or totaled vehicle must use it to make the written disclosure the law demands.
The statute behind it matters. The certifications on the form are sworn under 23 V.S.A. Sections 202, 203, 2082 and 3829(4), which means a false statement is not just a paperwork slip but a sworn lie to the state. The consequence is concrete: a bad statement can void the transfer or expose the signer to penalties. A common misconception is that a bill of sale is a casual receipt you can scribble on any paper. In Vermont, this specific form carries legal weight, and the agency expects its exact fields.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything before you open the form, because hunting for a VIN halfway through leads to guesses, and guesses get packets bounced. Vermont does not set a hard deadline to register after a private purchase, but buyers must get the vehicle inspected within 15 days of registering, so delay still costs you. Here is your pre-filing checklist.
- The vehicle title, signed over by the seller. This is your source of truth for the VIN, year, make, and model; without it the buyer cannot title the car and the sale cannot complete.
- The full VIN or HIN. The DMV cross-checks this number against the title and its records, and a single wrong digit triggers a VIN-verification hold.
- The exact odometer reading. You need the live mileage with no tenths the day you sign; a stale or rounded reading can read as a false odometer statement.
- The agreed purchase price in dollars. This number sets your 6% Purchase and Use Tax, so both parties must agree on it before signing.
- Seller’s legal name, address, phone, and email. The DMV uses these to confirm the seller of record matches the title; a mismatch stalls the transfer.
- Buyer’s legal name, address, phone, and email. These become the new owner of record, so a typo here can put the title in the wrong name.
- Model year of the vehicle. This tells you whether the back-side Odometer Disclosure is mandatory (2011 and newer); guessing wrong means a missing required statement.
- Salvage, rebuilt, or total-loss status. If the car carries any of these brands, you must disclose it in writing on this form, or the buyer can demand a full refund.
- A J.D. Power value estimate. If you mail your registration, Vermont wants this to verify the price; without it the tax line can be questioned.
- Proof of insurance and your driver’s license. These ride along in the registration packet, and a missing one holds the whole filing.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
Download Form VT-005 free from the official Vermont DMV forms library, where it lives as a fillable PDF. Always pull it from the state site rather than a random template host, because outdated copies float around the web and the DMV expects the current layout. The version in use today is marked VT-005 01/2022 MTC in the lower-left corner of the front page; check that code before you write anything so you know you have the right edition.
You can also pick up a paper copy at any Vermont DMV office or request one by calling 802-828-2000. The mailing address printed on the form is Department of Motor Vehicles, Agency of Transportation, 120 State Street, Montpelier, Vermont 05603-0001. Town clerks and many Vermont notaries keep blank copies on hand too, which helps if you are closing a deal after DMV hours.
Fill it out by hand in dark ink or type directly into the PDF before printing. Typed entries cut down on the misread letters that cause data-entry errors at the counter. Print single-sided is fine, but make sure you complete the back of the page when the odometer disclosure applies, since that side is a separate sworn statement and is easy to forget. A common misconception is that the downloadable PDF is “just a sample.” It is the real, accepted form, and the DMV takes it as filed.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form VT-005 Line by Line
The form flows top to bottom on the front: seller statement, vehicle description, owner, deal terms, emissions question, salvage section, then signatures. The back holds the Odometer Disclosure Statement in four numbered sections. Work each field in order and never leave a required box blank, because empty boxes are the number-one reason a packet comes back. Use the exact labels printed on the form, shown below in italics where you see sample entries.
1. Seller(s) Name — “I / We (Seller(s))”
This top line asks who is selling the vehicle, and if the seller is a business it asks for the company name. Write the seller’s full legal name exactly as it appears on the title, last name spelled the way the state has it. Robert A. Thompson writes his name on the line; Green Mountain Motors LLC writes its company name instead. If two people are on the title, list both names here because the form sells “I / We.”
The most common mistake is writing a nickname or a married name that does not match the title, such as Bob Thompson when the title reads Robert A. Thompson. The consequence is a name-mismatch hold while the DMV confirms you are the real owner of record. A misconception filers carry is that “close enough” names are fine; the agency matches this against the title character by character, so use the legal name.
2. Vehicle/Vessel Description — Year, Make, Model, Body/Hull Type, Color, Vessel Length
This block asks you to describe the exact item being sold so the state can match it to the title. Enter the model year, the make, the model, the body or hull type, and the color in their own boxes; fill the Vessel Length feet-and-inches boxes only if you are selling a boat. 2018 goes in Year, Toyota in Make, Camry SE in Model, Sedan in Body Type, Silver in Color. For a boat, Lund might be the make with 16 ft. 0 in. in the length boxes.
A nuance trips up older or modified vehicles: use the body type as the title states it, not what you call it day to day. The common mistake is mixing up trim and model or guessing the color, which creates a description that does not match the title and slows verification. Many people think these fields are loose description; in fact they help confirm the VIN belongs to this exact vehicle, so accuracy here protects you.
3. Vehicle/Vessel Identification Number (VIN/HIN)
This field asks for the unique 17-character VIN for a car or the HIN for a vessel. Copy it directly from the title or the dashboard plate, character by character, and double-check the easy-to-confuse pairs like the number 0 versus the letter O and 1 versus I. 4T1B11HK5JU123456 is how a full VIN looks written on the line. Never abbreviate or shorten it.
The edge case is an imported or older vehicle with a non-standard VIN length; write exactly what the title shows, even if it is shorter than 17 characters. The single most damaging mistake on the whole form is a wrong VIN digit, because the DMV runs a VIN verification and a mismatch freezes the registration until you correct and resubmit. A misconception is that the last few digits “don’t matter.” Every character matters, since the VIN is the legal identity of the vehicle.
4. Odometer Reading (Vehicles Only, No Tenths)
This line asks for the current mileage at the moment of sale, and it warns no tenths. Read the dash and write whole numbers only, then check the matching box for Miles, Kilometers, or Hours (hours apply to some equipment and vessels). If the dash reads 84,219.7, you write 84219 and check Miles. Drop the decimal entirely.
A nuance: most U.S. cars read in miles, but some imports read in kilometers, so check the unit box that actually matches the gauge. The common mistake is rounding up or writing tenths, which can read as an altered or false figure and conflict with the back-page disclosure. Filers often think this front-page number is enough; it is not. For 2011-and-newer cars you must also complete the full Odometer Disclosure on the back, and the two readings must match.
5. New Owner and New Co-Owner
These lines ask who is receiving the vehicle, with a second line for a co-owner. Write the buyer’s full legal name on the New Owner line and a second buyer on New Co-Owner only if the title will be held jointly. Sarah Beth Collins goes on New Owner; if she and her spouse co-title, Daniel J. Collins goes on New Co-Owner. Use legal names, not nicknames.
The nuance is how the names are joined for co-owners, since “and” versus “or” can affect who must sign in future sales; decide this with intent. The common mistake is leaving the co-owner blank when both spouses intend to be on the title, which forces a correction later to add the second owner. People wrongly assume they can add a co-owner verbally at the counter; the bill of sale and title need the name in writing here.
6. Sale Terms — “to:”, “on: Date”, “for: $”
This grouping records the deal: who it transfers to, the date of sale, and the price. The to: line repeats the buyer or buyers, on: Date takes the sale date, and for: $ takes the agreed dollar amount. Write 09/14/2025 for the date and $12,500 for the price. Keep the date format consistent and write the price in plain dollars.
The nuance is gifts and family transfers: even a $1 or “gift” transfer should be stated honestly, because Vermont taxes off price or J.D. Power value, whichever fits the situation. The common mistake is lowballing the price to dodge tax; the DMV compares it to the J.D. Power clean trade-in value and can assess tax on the higher figure, so a fake-low number invites a tax adjustment. A misconception is that the price is private; on this form it is the basis for your 6% Purchase and Use Tax, so it is the most scrutinized number after the VIN.
7. Emissions Time-Extension Waiver Question
This yes/no asks whether the vehicle failed an emissions test and got a time-extension waiver in the past 12 months. Check Yes or No honestly based on the vehicle’s recent inspection history. Most private sellers check No; check Yes only if a waiver was actually granted. The form notes a vehicle may not have two consecutive time-extension waivers.
The nuance is that a recent waiver affects the buyer’s path to passing the next inspection, so an honest answer protects the buyer’s 15-day inspection clock. The common mistake is checking No by reflex without confirming, which can leave the buyer surprised at inspection time. Many sellers think this box is optional trivia; it carries real inspection consequences, and the form links to avip.vermont.gov for the details, so answer it with care.
8. Salvage, Salvage and Rebuilt, or Totaled Section
This section must be completed only when the vehicle carries a salvage brand, and it asks you to certify the status as Salvage, Salvage and Rebuilt, or Declared a total loss by insurer. Check the box that matches the title brand and have the new owner sign the Purchaser signature line with the date. Marcus Bell signs as purchaser and dates 10/02/2025 when buying a rebuilt-title pickup. Leave this entire block empty for a clean-title vehicle.
The law here is strict under 23 V.S.A. Sections 2093(b)(c): the seller must disclose a salvage history both orally and in writing before the sale. The consequence of skipping it is severe — the buyer can demand a full refund of the purchase price plus taxes and fees at their option. The common misconception is that a rebuilt car with a clean inspection no longer needs disclosure; it does, every time it is sold, so always complete this block when the brand exists.
9. Seller Signature, Names, and Contact Block
This block asks the seller to sign under penalty of law and certify the vehicle is free of liens, then print names and contact details. The seller signs and dates, prints Seller #1 and Seller #2 names, then fills the seller Address, Phone Number, and email. Robert A. Thompson signs, dates 09/14/2025, and lists his Burlington address, phone, and email. If the vehicle is jointly owned, both owners must sign here.
The nuance is the lien certification: by signing, the seller swears the vehicle is free of all liens and encumbrances, so do not sign if a loan is still open without clearing it first. The common mistake is one joint owner signing for both, which is invalid on the front page and stalls the transfer. People assume a single signature always works; on the bill-of-sale front, joint ownership requires every owner’s signature.
10. Buyer Signature, Names, and Contact Block
This block asks the buyer to sign, date, print names, and give contact details, mirroring the seller block. The buyer signs and dates, prints Buyer #1 and Buyer #2 names if co-owned, then lists buyer Address, Phone Number, and email. Sarah Beth Collins signs, dates the day of sale, and writes her Montpelier address and contact info. Add Buyer #2 only if a co-owner will be on the title.
The nuance is matching this block to the New Owner names above; they should be identical so the title issues to the right person. The common mistake is leaving the buyer block blank because “the seller already signed,” which leaves the form one-sided and unaccepted. A misconception is that only the seller needs to sign a bill of sale; Vermont wants both parties’ signatures to validate the transfer.
Back Page Section 1 — Vehicle Information (Odometer Disclosure)
The back-page Odometer Disclosure is mandatory for vehicles model year 2011 and newer, self-propelled, and registered at 16,000 lbs. or less. Section 1 asks you to re-enter the Make, Model, Year, Body Type, Color, and Vehicle/Vessel Identification Number. Copy these exactly as you wrote them on the front so the two sides agree. Toyota, Camry SE, 2018, Sedan, Silver, and the full VIN go in their boxes.
The nuance is the 20-year rule: as of January 1, 2021, a 2011 vehicle stays subject to disclosure until 2031, a 2012 until 2032, and so on, so do not assume an “old” 2011 car is exempt. The common mistake is leaving this section blank because the front already lists the car; the back is a separate federal statement and must stand on its own. Filers wrongly think the front and back are one entry; treat them as two documents on one page.
Back Page Section 2 — Odometer Disclosure (Check One)
This section asks you to certify the mileage by checking exactly one box: Reflects the actual mileage, Reflects the mileage in excess of the odometer’s mechanical limits, or Is not the actual mileage. Warning – Odometer Discrepancy. Check the box that is true and enter the reading with no tenths. For a normal late-model car, check actual mileage and write 84219. Most sellers use the first box.
The nuance covers rollover and broken odometers: check the “exceeds mechanical limits” box for a gauge that has rolled past its maximum, and the discrepancy box if the reading is known to be wrong. The common mistake is checking actual mileage on a car with a replaced cluster, which is a false federal statement that can bring fines or imprisonment under 49 U.S.C. § 32709. The misconception that mileage disclosure is a formality is dangerous; it is sworn under federal and Vermont consumer-fraud law.
Back Page Section 3 — Seller/Transferor Information
This section asks for the seller’s printed name in last, first, middle initial order or business name, plus Phone Number, Address, City, State, Zip, Signature, and Date. Print Thompson, Robert A. and complete the address and contact boxes, then sign and date. Follow the last-first order the form prints, since it differs from the front page.
The nuance for joint owners is the opposite of the front: here only one seller signature is required on the odometer disclosure. The common mistake is writing the name first-last out of habit, which creates an inconsistent record between front and back; follow the printed order. People assume the front signature covers the back too; the odometer statement needs its own signature to be a valid federal disclosure.
Back Page Section 4 — Buyer Information
This final section asks for the buyer’s printed name in last, first, middle initial or business name, with Phone Number, Address, City, State, Zip, Signature, and Date. The buyer prints Collins, Sarah Beth, fills the address and contact boxes, then signs and dates. Both buyer and seller signatures are required for the odometer statement to be valid.
The nuance is timing: buyer and seller should sign the odometer disclosure at the same moment as the sale so the date matches the front page. The common mistake is the buyer skipping the odometer signature, which voids the disclosure even when the seller signed; both names are mandatory here. A misconception is that the buyer only “receives” the disclosure passively; the buyer must sign to acknowledge the mileage, and a missing buyer signature gets the packet rejected.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
These three scenarios follow named filers through the form from top to bottom, covering the most common Vermont situations: a newer car needing full odometer disclosure, an older exempt vehicle, and a salvage-branded sale.
Example 1: Robert Sells a 2018 Camry to Sarah (Newer Car, Full Disclosure)
Robert Thompson sells his clean-title 2018 Toyota Camry to Sarah Collins for $12,500. Because the car is a 2011-or-newer self-propelled vehicle, the back-page Odometer Disclosure is required.
| Form Section | What Robert and Sarah Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller(s) name | Robert A. Thompson |
| Year / Make / Model | 2018 / Toyota / Camry SE |
| Body Type / Color | Sedan / Silver |
| VIN | 4T1B11HK5JU123456 |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 84219, box checked Miles |
| New Owner | Sarah Beth Collins |
| Date / Price | 09/14/2025 / $12,500 |
| Emissions waiver question | No |
| Salvage section | Left blank (clean title) |
| Seller / Buyer signatures | Both sign and date 09/14/2025 |
| Back Section 2 | Reflects the actual mileage — 84219 |
| Back Sections 3 & 4 | Thompson, Robert A. and Collins, Sarah Beth, both sign |
Example 2: Helen Sells a 2009 Civic to Marcus (Older Exempt Vehicle)
Helen Park sells her 2009 Honda Civic to Marcus Bell for $4,800. The car is older than the 2011 disclosure threshold, so the front-page mileage is recorded but the full back-page disclosure is not required.
| Form Section | What Helen and Marcus Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller(s) name | Helen S. Park |
| Year / Make / Model | 2009 / Honda / Civic LX |
| Body Type / Color | Sedan / Blue |
| VIN | 2HGFA16589H123456 |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 146302, box checked Miles |
| New Owner | Marcus T. Bell |
| Date / Price | 08/03/2025 / $4,800 |
| Salvage section | Left blank (clean title) |
| Seller / Buyer signatures | Both sign and date 08/03/2025 |
| Back-page disclosure | Not required (pre-2011 model year) |
Example 3: Green Mountain Motors Sells a Rebuilt Truck to Aisha (Salvage Sale)
Green Mountain Motors LLC sells a 2016 Ford F-150 with a salvage-and-rebuilt title to Aisha Rahman for $15,900. The salvage section is mandatory, and the company signs through an authorized representative.
| Form Section | What the Parties Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller(s) name (company) | Green Mountain Motors LLC |
| Year / Make / Model | 2016 / Ford / F-150 XLT |
| Body Type / Color | Pickup / Black |
| VIN | 1FTEW1EP7GFA12345 |
| Odometer Reading (no tenths) | 97840, box checked Miles |
| New Owner | Aisha N. Rahman |
| Date / Price | 10/02/2025 / $15,900 |
| Salvage section | Salvage and Rebuilt checked |
| Purchaser signature (salvage) | Aisha N. Rahman, dated 10/02/2025 |
| Seller signature | Rep signs with title, e.g. J. Carter, Manager |
| Back-page disclosure | Completed; Reflects the actual mileage — 97840 |
How to File the Completed Form
You do not file Form VT-005 by itself. It goes in your registration and title packet with the Registration, Tax & Title Application (Form VD-119), the signed-over title, VIN verification for used cars, proof of insurance, your driver’s license, and payment. Vermont initial registrations must be done by mail or in person, not fully online, though renewals can be handled online later.
By mail: Send the full packet to Vermont Department of Motor Vehicles, 120 State Street, Montpelier, VT 05603-0001. Include a check or money order for the 6% Purchase and Use Tax plus registration and title fees from the DMV fee schedule, and add a J.D. Power value estimate. Processing by mail commonly runs two to four weeks, so keep a copy of everything and your mailing receipt as proof of filing.
In person: Bring the packet to any Vermont DMV office. Counter staff accept check, money order, cash, and most cards for the tax and fees, and you often leave the same day with plates and a registration. Your stamped registration and the receipt are your proof of filing.
Through a dealer: If you bought from a licensed dealer, the dealer usually submits your title and registration on your behalf, so confirm they are handling the VT-005 and tax. The proof of filing in that case is the paperwork and temporary registration the dealer hands you. Keep your own copy of the signed bill of sale regardless of who files.
What Happens After You File
Once the DMV accepts your packet, it records the transfer, issues the new registration, and starts the title in the buyer’s name. The title itself arrives separately by mail, often several weeks after the registration, since titles are processed centrally. You will receive plates or a registration document that lets you legally drive while the title is in the pipeline.
The buyer’s clock then starts on inspection. Vermont requires the vehicle to pass a safety and emissions inspection within 15 days of registering, so schedule it right away to avoid a lapse. If the odometer waiver box was checked Yes, factor that into your inspection timing, since a vehicle cannot stack two consecutive time-extension waivers.
The DMV may also review your reported price. If the price on the VT-005 sits well below the J.D. Power clean trade-in value, the agency can assess the 6% tax on the higher value and bill the difference. Keep your signed bill of sale, because it is your evidence of the true price if a tax question comes up. If anything was missing, the DMV returns the packet with a note telling you what to fix.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Each error below has bitten real filers, and each one carries a direct cost in time or money.
- Wrong VIN digit. A single mismatched character triggers a VIN-verification hold that freezes your registration.
- Writing odometer tenths. Adding a decimal can read as an altered figure and conflicts with the back-page disclosure.
- Checking the wrong odometer box. Marking actual mileage on a rolled-over or replaced cluster is a false federal statement that risks fines.
- Skipping the back page. Leaving the Odometer Disclosure blank on a 2011-or-newer car gets the packet rejected as incomplete.
- Only one joint owner signing the front. The bill-of-sale front needs every owner’s signature, so one signature stalls the transfer.
- Missing buyer signature. A one-sided form is not a valid sale or disclosure and comes straight back.
- Lowballing the price. A price far under J.D. Power value invites a tax reassessment on the higher amount.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name. A name that does not match the title causes an identity hold.
- Omitting the salvage disclosure. Failing to mark a salvage brand lets the buyer demand a full refund of price, taxes, and fees.
- Forgetting the date. A blank or wrong sale date breaks the record and can muddy the tax and inspection timeline.
- Using an outdated form version. A copy that is not the 01/2022 layout may be missing current fields and get refused.
- Filing the VT-005 alone. Without Form VD-119 and the title, the bill of sale cannot register the car.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do use the legal name from the title, because the DMV matches names character by character.
- Do double-check the VIN, since a wrong digit is the costliest single error on the form.
- Do complete the back page for 2011-and-newer cars, because it is a required federal statement.
- Do report the true price, since honest pricing avoids a tax reassessment.
- Do have all joint owners sign the front, because partial signatures void the transfer.
- Do keep a copy of the signed form, since it is your proof of price and sale.
Don’ts
- Don’t write tenths in the odometer, because the form demands whole numbers only.
- Don’t sign if a lien is open, since the seller certifies the vehicle is lien-free.
- Don’t skip the salvage box on a branded title, because the buyer can unwind the sale.
- Don’t guess the model year, since it decides whether the disclosure is mandatory.
- Don’t file the bill of sale by itself, because it needs the VD-119 packet to register the car.
- Don’t use a random template, since the DMV expects the official 01/2022 version.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Many Vermont buyers handle the VT-005 themselves, while others lean on a dealer or service. Here is how the two paths compare.
| Filing on Your Own | Filing With Help (Dealer or Service) |
|---|---|
| Free, since the form costs nothing to download | Often costs a fee or is bundled into a dealer price |
| Full control over accuracy, so you catch your own errors | Less hands-on, but a pro knows the common pitfalls |
| You learn the process for next time | You save time and skip the DMV counter |
| Direct contact with the DMV if questions arise | The dealer handles tax and title submission for you |
| Risk of a rejected packet if you miss a field | Lower rejection risk when an experienced filer prepares it |
Pros of going it alone: it is free, you control every entry, you keep your own records, you understand your tax basis, and you build know-how for future sales. Cons: you carry the full risk of a missed signature, a wrong VIN, an outdated form, a skipped back page, or a tax surprise if your price is questioned. Weigh the time you save against the small cost and convenience of help, especially on a salvage or out-of-state deal where the paperwork gets denser.
FAQs
Is Form VT-005 required to register a used car bought from a private seller in Vermont?
Yes. A completed Bill of Sale and Odometer Disclosure Statement is part of the required packet, filed with Form VD-119, the signed title, insurance proof, and your tax and fee payment.
Do I write my odometer reading with tenths on Form VT-005?
No. The form says no tenths, so write whole numbers only; a decimal can read as an altered figure and clash with the back-page disclosure.
Do both joint owners have to sign the front of the form?
Yes. If the vehicle is jointly owned, both owners must sign the seller block on the front, or the transfer stalls until corrected.
Do I write my name first-last in Section 3 of the odometer disclosure?
No. Sections 3 and 4 ask for last, first, middle initial order, which differs from the front page, so follow the printed order to keep records consistent.
Is the back-page Odometer Disclosure required for a 2009 vehicle?
No. The full disclosure applies to model year 2011 and newer; older self-propelled vehicles only need the front-page mileage line recorded.
Do I need to complete the salvage section on a rebuilt-title car that passed inspection?
Yes. A salvage or rebuilt brand must be disclosed in writing every time the vehicle is sold, regardless of inspection status.
Is the purchase price I write on the form what Vermont taxes?
Yes. Vermont’s 6% Purchase and Use Tax is based on your price or the J.D. Power clean trade-in value, whichever the DMV applies, so report it honestly.
Do I check “actual mileage” if my odometer was replaced?
No. Check the discrepancy or mechanical-limits box as appropriate, because marking actual mileage on a replaced cluster is a false federal statement.
Can I file the VT-005 by itself to transfer the car?
No. The bill of sale rides with Form VD-119, the title, and other documents; alone it cannot register or title the vehicle.
Is the current version of the form the 01/2022 edition?
Yes. The accepted version is marked VT-005 01/2022 MTC in the lower-left corner, so confirm that code before filling it out.
Do I have to answer the emissions time-extension waiver question?
Yes. Check Yes or No honestly, because a recent waiver affects the buyer’s inspection path and a vehicle cannot hold two consecutive waivers.
Can I register a vehicle online in Vermont with this form?
No. Initial registrations must be done by mail or in person; only later renewals can be handled online through the DMV portal.
Do I keep a copy of the signed bill of sale after filing?
Yes. Keep your own copy as proof of the true price and the sale, since it protects you if a tax or ownership question arises later.
Is a buyer signature required on the odometer disclosure?
Yes. Both buyer and seller must sign the odometer statement; a missing buyer signature voids the disclosure even if the seller signed.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Connecticut DMV Bill of Sale (H-31) (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Connecticut DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Vermont DMV Application for Certificate of Title (Form VD-119) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Vermont DMV Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Vermont DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Vermont DMV Vehicle Registration Application (Form VD-119) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the South Dakota DMV Odometer Disclosure Statement + FAQs