The West Virginia Bill of Sale (Form DMV-7-TR) is the official document that proves a motor vehicle, trailer, or boat changed hands, naming the buyer, the seller, the price, and the vehicle details so the West Virginia Division of Motor Vehicles can title and tax the sale correctly. Anyone who buys or sells a vehicle from a private party — not a dealer — should fill it out, and the buyer needs the notarized version to get the title.
This single form covers cars, trucks, motorcycles, trailers, and boats, and it carries real money weight. When you buy from an individual and the price falls below 50% of the NADA Clean Loan Book value, the DMV will tax you on that higher book value unless you hand over a notarized bill of sale, which can mean paying the state’s 6% privilege tax on the wrong number and overpaying by hundreds of dollars. The current version is Form DMV-7-TR, Revised 12/16, so check the bottom corner of your copy before you write a word.
Here is what you will walk away knowing:
- 🚗 How to fill out every line of Form DMV-7-TR the right way, the first time
- 💰 How a notarized bill of sale can lower the 6% tax you owe at the DMV counter
- 📝 Which extra forms — like the title application and odometer statement — must ride along with it
- ⚖️ The exact mistakes that get a title application rejected and how to dodge them
- 🖊️ Where, how, and at what cost to get the form notarized and filed in West Virginia
What Form DMV-7-TR Is and Who Must File It
Form DMV-7-TR is West Virginia’s standard Bill of Sale for a motor vehicle, trailer, or watercraft, published by the state Division of Motor Vehicles (DMV). It is a written record of a private sale that states who sold the item, who bought it, what the item is, what it cost, and on what date. The DMV uses it to confirm the real sale price and to decide how much tax the buyer owes. Without it, the agency falls back on the published NADA book value, which is often higher than what you actually paid.
You should use this form any time you buy or sell a vehicle, trailer, or boat between private parties in West Virginia. Dealers do not need it because, under state rules, the dealer collects and remits all taxes and paperwork directly to the DMV. Private buyers, though, must take their own steps. The seller fills out the form and signs it, the buyer keeps it, and the buyer brings it to the DMV when applying for the new title.
The form matters most for the buyer. West Virginia Code §17A-3-4 governs how vehicles get titled and taxed, and the DMV is firm: if the purchase price you list on the title application is below 50% of the NADA Clean Loan Book value, you must attach a notarized bill of sale, or the 6% tax is charged on the book value instead. There is one hard limit. Any vehicle two years old or newer that is not bought from a registered dealer is taxed on the NADA book value no matter what, and a bill of sale will not change that. Knowing whether your vehicle clears that two-year line tells you right away whether this form can save you money.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form. Missing even one item can stall your title application or force a second trip to the DMV. A notarized bill of sale that arrives without the matching driver’s license copies, for example, gets set aside until you supply them.
- The vehicle title: You need the current title in the seller’s name to legally transfer ownership; without it, the DMV will not process the sale, and you should never buy from someone who cannot hand it over.
- Vehicle Identification Number (VIN): The 17-character VIN ties the bill of sale to the exact vehicle; a wrong digit makes the form mismatch the title and the DMV rejects it.
- Year, make, and model: These describe the vehicle and must match the title; a mismatch reads as a clerical error and slows processing.
- Odometer reading: The current mileage is required for most vehicles under 10 years old, and an inaccurate number can be treated as odometer fraud.
- Agreed sale price: The exact dollar amount drives the 6% tax calculation, so both parties must agree on it before signing.
- Date of sale: This sets the clock for titling and proves when ownership changed; a blank date weakens the document.
- Full legal names and addresses of buyer and seller: These identify both parties and must match their IDs, because the DMV cross-checks names.
- Buyer’s and seller’s driver’s licenses: The DMV requires a copy of both the buyer’s and the seller’s license to accompany any notarized bill of sale or DMV-7-TR, and the form is incomplete without them.
- A notary public: The form must be notarized, so plan where you will sign it in front of a notary rather than signing early.
- Proof of insurance and a state ID: You will need these at titling, plus payment for the title fee and tax.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can download Form DMV-7-TR for free. The official source is the WV DMV form search library, which hosts the current state-issued PDF, and reputable third-party sites also offer the same DMV-7-TR bill of sale as a fillable PDF. Always confirm the revision date in the lower corner reads 12/16 so you are working from the version the DMV accepts today.
You have two ways to complete it. You can type your answers into the fillable PDF on a computer, then print it for signing, which produces clean, readable entries the DMV prefers. Or you can print it blank and fill it out by hand in dark blue or black ink, writing clearly in print rather than cursive. Either way, do not sign it until you are in front of a notary, because the notary must witness the signatures for the document to be valid.
West Virginia does not let you submit this particular form fully online. The DMV does not offer an online channel for an initial private-sale title transfer that relies on a bill of sale, so you will print the finished form and bring or mail it with your title application. You can grab a paper copy in person at any DMV regional office if you prefer not to print at home. Keep the original notarized copy for the DMV and make a photocopy for your own records before you turn it in.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form DMV-7-TR Line by Line
Work through the form in the order the fields appear. Each field below shows what it asks, how to answer it, a real example, the edge cases, the common mistake, and the myth to ignore. Use the italicized samples as a model for what your own entry should look like.
1. Seller’s Name
What it asks in plain English: This field wants the full legal name of the person or business selling the vehicle.
How to answer it: Write the seller’s complete legal name exactly as it appears on the vehicle title. Print it in capital letters when filling out by hand, and include a middle initial if the title shows one.
Example: Seller James Robert Carter writes JAMES ROBERT CARTER, matching the name printed on his title.
Nuance or edge case: If the title lists two sellers joined by the word “AND,” both names go here and both must sign later, because the DMV requires both signatures when names are joined by “AND.” If the names are joined by “OR,” either one can sign alone.
Common mistake and consequence: Writing a nickname or a married name that does not match the title creates a name mismatch, and the DMV can hold the title transfer until the seller proves the names belong to the same person.
Misconception: Some sellers think a business or “doing business as” name can replace their legal name, but the DMV matches the bill of sale to the legal owner on the title, so the legal name must appear.
2. Seller’s Address
What it asks in plain English: This is the seller’s current mailing address.
How to answer it: Enter the full street address, city, state, and ZIP code on one line, spelled out clearly. Use the address where the seller actually receives mail.
Example: James enters 412 Maple Street, Charleston, WV 25301.
Nuance or edge case: If the seller uses a P.O. Box for mail, list the P.O. Box, but be ready to provide a physical address too, since some DMV staff ask for one to verify residency.
Common mistake and consequence: Leaving the ZIP code blank or using an old address can make the form look incomplete, and an incomplete bill of sale may be returned, delaying the buyer’s title.
Misconception: People assume the seller’s address must match the title, but it only needs to be the seller’s current address; titles often carry outdated addresses, and that alone is fine.
3. Buyer’s Name
What it asks in plain English: This field wants the full legal name of the person buying the vehicle.
How to answer it: Write the buyer’s complete legal name as it appears on their driver’s license, in capital letters. This is the name the title will be issued in.
Example: Buyer Maria Elena Lopez writes MARIA ELENA LOPEZ.
Nuance or edge case: If two people are buying together, decide now whether to join the names with “AND” or “OR,” because “AND” forces both signatures on any future sale while “OR” lets either person act alone.
Common mistake and consequence: Misspelling the buyer’s name or using a maiden name that differs from the license causes the new title to print incorrectly, and fixing a printed title means another application and fee.
Misconception: Buyers think they can list whoever they want, but the name here must match the person who will be taxed and titled, so it has to be the real buyer’s legal name.
4. Buyer’s Address
What it asks in plain English: This is the buyer’s current mailing address.
How to answer it: Enter the full street address, city, state, and ZIP code where the buyer lives and gets mail. This is where the DMV mails the title.
Example: Maria enters 87 Ridgeview Drive, Huntington, WV 25701.
Nuance or edge case: If the buyer recently moved, use the new address, because the title is mailed here; sending it to an old address can mean a lost title and a $15 duplicate fee.
Common mistake and consequence: Listing a temporary or incorrect address can route the title to the wrong place, and recovering it adds weeks of delay.
Misconception: Some buyers believe a friend’s or relative’s address is fine for convenience, but the address should be the buyer’s own to keep DMV records and insurance accurate.
5. Vehicle (or Boat/Trailer) Description: Year, Make, Model
What it asks in plain English: This section identifies exactly what is being sold — the model year, the manufacturer, and the model name.
How to answer it: Copy the year, make, and model straight from the title, matching them word for word. Write the four-digit year, then the make, then the model.
Example: Maria’s purchase reads 2015 Toyota Camry.
Nuance or edge case: For a boat, list the make and length and use the matching boat title application (Form MB-6); for a trailer, the make may be less obvious, so use whatever the title shows even if it is a small manufacturer.
Common mistake and consequence: Mixing up the model year with the manufacture year, or guessing the model trim, creates a description that does not match the title, and the DMV can reject the form for inconsistency.
Misconception: People think “close enough” descriptions are accepted, but the DMV compares this line to the title and the VIN, so it must match precisely.
6. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) or Hull Number
What it asks in plain English: This field wants the unique serial number that identifies the exact vehicle or, for a boat, the hull number.
How to answer it: Copy all 17 characters of the VIN exactly from the title, double-checking each letter and number. Boats use the hull identification number instead.
Example: James writes 4T1BF1FK7FU012345 for the Camry.
Nuance or edge case: VINs use the letters O, I, and Q rarely, so a character that looks like a zero is almost always a zero; verify the VIN on the dashboard or doorjamb matches the title, because the VIN on the title must match the VIN on the vehicle.
Common mistake and consequence: Transposing two digits is the most frequent error here, and a single wrong character makes the bill of sale fail to match the title, which stops the title transfer cold.
Misconception: Buyers assume the license plate number can stand in for the VIN, but plates are not unique to the vehicle’s identity and the DMV needs the VIN.
7. Odometer Reading
What it asks in plain English: This field records the vehicle’s current mileage at the moment of sale.
How to answer it: Read the odometer and write the exact number of miles shown, with no commas needed. Mark whether the reading is actual, not actual, or exceeds mechanical limits if the form provides those boxes.
Example: James records 128456 miles for the Camry.
Nuance or edge case: Odometer disclosure is required for most passenger cars and light trucks; it is not required if the vehicle is over 10 years old, non-motorized, rated 16,000 pounds or more, or a trailer, but West Virginia classes vehicles and applies a separate federal rule for model year 2011 and newer vehicles for 20 years. When disclosure is needed and the title lacks a spot, use the separate Odometer Disclosure Statement (Form DMV-TM-1).
Common mistake and consequence: Rounding the mileage or guessing is treated as inaccurate disclosure, and recording a false reading can expose the seller to odometer-tampering penalties.
Misconception: Sellers think old cars never need a reading, but West Virginia does not exempt vehicles by age alone — the exemption depends on the vehicle class.
8. Sale Price (Consideration)
What it asks in plain English: This field asks for the exact dollar amount the buyer paid for the vehicle.
How to answer it: Write the agreed price in dollars and cents. Use the true number both parties accepted, because this figure drives the 6% titling tax.
Example: Maria and James agree on $6,500.00, and that amount goes on the line.
Nuance or edge case: If the price is below 50% of the NADA Clean Loan Book value, this notarized bill of sale is what lets the DMV tax the lower real price; but if the vehicle is two years old or newer and not from a dealer, the DMV taxes the book value regardless, so the bill of sale will not lower it.
Common mistake and consequence: Listing one price on the title and a different price on the bill of sale is a fatal error — the DMV will not accept conflicting numbers, and the original owner must get a duplicate title and start over.
Misconception: Many believe writing a low price always cuts the tax, but understating the price is fraud, and the DMV can refuse the title and revoke licenses and plates over false statements.
9. Date of Sale
What it asks in plain English: This field records the calendar date ownership transferred from seller to buyer.
How to answer it: Write the date the sale actually happened, usually in MM/DD/YYYY format. Use the day money and the vehicle changed hands.
Example: The pair completes the sale on 06/01/2026, so that date goes here.
Nuance or edge case: If the buyer signs the title and bill of sale on different days, use the day the vehicle was actually handed over, since that is when liability shifts.
Common mistake and consequence: Backdating the sale to dodge fees or insurance gaps can be treated as a false statement, and it creates a dangerous coverage gap if a crash happens in between.
Misconception: People assume the date is just a formality, but it sets the timeline the DMV uses to judge whether titling and tax were handled on time.
10. Signatures and Notarization
What it asks in plain English: This block is where the seller — and often the buyer — sign, and where the notary public certifies the signatures.
How to answer it: Sign in front of a notary, never before. The notary then completes the acknowledgment, stamps the seal, and dates it. Print names beneath signatures if the form asks.
Example: James signs James R. Carter as the notary watches, and the notary stamps and dates the block on 06/01/2026.
Nuance or edge case: When two sellers are joined by “AND” on the title, both must sign here; if joined by “OR,” one signature is enough, mirroring the DMV’s rule on joined owner names.
Common mistake and consequence: Signing before reaching the notary makes the notarization invalid, because the notary must witness the signing; an invalid notarization means the DMV taxes you on book value.
Misconception: People think any witness will do, but West Virginia requires a commissioned notary public, not a friend or family member.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
The three scenarios below show how different buyers move through Form DMV-7-TR from start to finish. Each follows one named person and shows what they enter in the key fields.
Scenario 1 — Standard private used-car sale. Maria Lopez buys a 2015 Toyota Camry from James Carter for a fair market price. She wants the notarized bill of sale to confirm the price and title the car.
| Form Section | What Maria’s Sale Shows |
|---|---|
| Seller’s Name | JAMES ROBERT CARTER |
| Seller’s Address | 412 Maple Street, Charleston, WV 25301 |
| Buyer’s Name | MARIA ELENA LOPEZ |
| Buyer’s Address | 87 Ridgeview Drive, Huntington, WV 25701 |
| Year/Make/Model | 2015 Toyota Camry |
| VIN | 4T1BF1FK7FU012345 |
| Odometer Reading | 128456 (Actual) |
| Sale Price | $6,500.00 |
| Date of Sale | 06/01/2026 |
| Notarization | Signed before notary, sealed 06/01/2026 |
Scenario 2 — Below-book-value purchase to save on tax. Marcus Bell buys an older 2009 Ford F-150 from a neighbor for $2,000, well under the NADA Clean Loan Book value. The notarized bill of sale lets the DMV tax the $2,000 instead of book value.
| Form Section | What Marcus’s Sale Shows |
|---|---|
| Seller’s Name | DANIEL T. REESE |
| Seller’s Address | 55 Hilltop Lane, Beckley, WV 25801 |
| Buyer’s Name | MARCUS J. BELL |
| Buyer’s Address | 210 Oak Avenue, Beckley, WV 25801 |
| Year/Make/Model | 2009 Ford F-150 |
| VIN | 1FTRX12W19FA98765 |
| Odometer Reading | 176200 (Actual) |
| Sale Price | $2,000.00 |
| Date of Sale | 05/20/2026 |
| Notarization | Signed before notary, sealed 05/20/2026 |
Scenario 3 — Co-buyers titling together. Aisha and Omar Khan buy a 2018 Honda CR-V together and want both names on the title joined by “OR” so either can sign in the future. The seller is a single private owner.
| Form Section | What the Khans’ Sale Shows |
|---|---|
| Seller’s Name | LINDA S. MORGAN |
| Seller’s Address | 9 Birch Court, Morgantown, WV 26505 |
| Buyer’s Name | AISHA KHAN OR OMAR KHAN |
| Buyer’s Address | 144 College Avenue, Morgantown, WV 26505 |
| Year/Make/Model | 2018 Honda CR-V |
| VIN | 2HKRW2H85JH543210 |
| Odometer Reading | 61050 (Actual) |
| Sale Price | $15,800.00 |
| Date of Sale | 06/03/2026 |
| Notarization | Signed before notary, sealed 06/03/2026 |
How to File the Completed Form
The notarized bill of sale does not get filed by itself. The buyer files it together with the Application for Certificate of Title (Form DMV-1-TR) when applying for the new title, and the DMV uses the bill of sale to set the tax. You must also include a copy of both the buyer’s and the seller’s driver’s licenses, since the DMV will not accept a notarized bill of sale or DMV-7-TR without them.
You have two filing channels in West Virginia, and there is no full online option for this private-sale transfer.
- In person: Bring the notarized bill of sale, the signed-over title, Form DMV-1-TR, the odometer statement if required, proof of insurance, and your ID to any DMV regional office or a privately owned license service. Pay the $15 title fee, the 6% titling privilege tax (or $30 flat if the price is under $500), the $10 lien fee if a lien applies, and the registration fee. The DMV accepts cash, check, money order, and most cards at regional offices, and you walk out with a stamped receipt as proof.
- By mail: Send the same complete packet to the Division of Motor Vehicles, 5707 MacCorkle Avenue SE, PO Box 17710, Charleston, WV 25317, paying by check or money order. Mailing adds processing time, so keep a photocopy of everything and use tracked mail as your proof of filing.
Best practice is to title the vehicle as soon as possible after the sale. Keep your stamped receipt or mailing tracking number until the new title arrives, because it is your only proof that you filed on time.
What Happens After You File
After you file, the DMV reviews your packet to confirm the title is properly assigned, the names match, the VIN is correct, and the bill of sale agrees with the price on the title application. If everything lines up, the agency calculates the 6% privilege tax on your stated price — or on the NADA book value if the price was under 50% and no notarized bill of sale was attached — and issues the new title in the buyer’s name. The title is mailed to the buyer’s address, so the address fields matter.
If something is off, the DMV returns the packet. A conflicting price between the title and the bill of sale, a missing license copy, or an incomplete notarization can all trigger a rejection, and you will have to fix and resubmit. In the worst case, when a price has been altered and cannot be determined, the new owner pays tax on the book value regardless of what the documents say. Once the clean title arrives, store it somewhere safe, because replacing a lost title costs $15 and a duplicate application.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Each error below can delay your title or raise your tax bill. Read them before you sign.
- Signing before the notary: The notarization is invalid, so the DMV ignores the form and taxes book value.
- Listing different prices on the title and bill of sale: The DMV refuses conflicting numbers and forces a duplicate-title restart.
- Transposing a digit in the VIN: The form no longer matches the title, and the transfer stops.
- Forgetting the driver’s license copies: The DMV will not accept the bill of sale, and your packet is returned.
- Understating the sale price: This is fraud and can lead to refused titles and revoked plates and licenses.
- Leaving the date of sale blank: The document loses its timeline and may be returned as incomplete.
- Using a nickname instead of the legal name: A name mismatch holds the title until you prove identity.
- Skipping the odometer reading on a vehicle that needs it: Missing disclosure can stall titling and raise fraud concerns.
- Mailing the form to the wrong DMV address: It can be lost or delayed, pushing back your title.
- Trying to use a bill of sale on a vehicle two years old or newer: The DMV taxes book value anyway, so a low price will not help.
- Assuming a gift needs only a bill of sale: A no-money transfer needs the Affidavit of Transfer of Ownership Without Consideration (Form DMV-5-TR) instead.
- Throwing away your copy: Without a photocopy, you cannot prove the sale terms if a dispute arises.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do match every name to the legal IDs and title, because the DMV cross-checks and a mismatch causes holds.
- Do sign only in front of a notary, since the witnessed signature is what makes the form valid.
- Do attach both driver’s license copies, because the DMV requires them with the bill of sale.
- Do confirm the VIN against the vehicle, since a matching VIN proves the form describes the right vehicle.
- Do keep a photocopy for yourself, because it protects you if the title or terms are ever questioned.
- Do check whether the vehicle is two years old or newer, since that decides if a bill of sale can lower your tax.
Don’ts
- Don’t write a fake or rounded sale price, because false statements can cost you your title, plates, and license.
- Don’t sign the form early, since unwitnessed signatures void the notarization.
- Don’t leave any field blank, because incomplete forms get returned.
- Don’t use a bill of sale for a true gift, since the DMV requires the DMV-5-TR affidavit instead.
- Don’t list conflicting prices, because the DMV rejects documents that disagree with the title.
- Don’t buy from someone who cannot hand over the title, since you cannot legally transfer ownership without it.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most West Virginia buyers handle the bill of sale and titling themselves, but a license service or attorney can help in tricky cases.
Pros of filing on your own
- It is free, because you pay only the standard DMV fees and no service markup.
- It is fast for simple sales, since a clean private sale needs only a few forms.
- You control accuracy, because you verify every field yourself.
- You learn the process, which helps with future vehicle purchases.
- You keep your own records, so you always know where your documents are.
Cons of filing on your own
- You shoulder every error, because a single mistake can mean a rejected title.
- You must find your own notary, which costs time and sometimes a small fee.
- Complex cases get hard, such as liens, gifts, or out-of-state titles.
- You may miss tax-saving rules, like the under-50% bill-of-sale provision.
- There is no one to catch mistakes, so an overlooked field is fully on you.
FAQs
Do I have to get the West Virginia bill of sale notarized?
Yes. West Virginia requires the DMV-7-TR to be notarized for it to be accepted, and the notary must witness the signatures in person for the document to count.
Do I write the seller’s legal name or a nickname in the seller field?
Yes, use the seller’s full legal name exactly as it appears on the title, because the DMV matches names and a nickname can hold up the transfer.
Do I need to copy the VIN from the title or from the dashboard?
Yes, copy it from the title and confirm it matches the dashboard or doorjamb, since the VIN on the title and the vehicle must be identical.
Do I list the real sale price even if it is very low?
Yes, always list the true price, because a false price is fraud, but understand the under-50% rule for how a notarized bill of sale affects your tax.
Do I mark the odometer as “actual” if the mileage is genuine?
Yes, mark it actual when the reading is true; mark not actual only if the odometer is broken or has rolled over, since false disclosure carries penalties.
Do both buyers sign when two names are on the form?
No, not always; if the names are joined by “OR” one signature works, but names joined by “AND” require both signatures to transfer the vehicle.
Do I need a bill of sale if the vehicle was a gift?
No, a true gift uses the Affidavit of Transfer of Ownership Without Consideration (Form DMV-5-TR), not the bill of sale, to avoid tax on the book value.
Do I have to include copies of driver’s licenses?
Yes, the DMV requires a copy of both the buyer’s and the seller’s driver’s license to accompany any notarized bill of sale or DMV-7-TR.
Do I file the bill of sale online in West Virginia?
No, there is no online channel for this private-sale transfer; you file in person or by mail with your title application and supporting documents.
Do I still owe tax on a cheap car bought from a neighbor?
Yes, you owe the 6% privilege tax, but a notarized bill of sale lets the DMV tax your real low price unless the vehicle is two years old or newer.
Do I use the bill of sale for a boat or trailer too?
Yes, Form DMV-7-TR covers motor vehicles, trailers, and boats, though boats also need the Application for Certificate of Title of a Motorboat (Form MB-6).
Do I have to fill in the date of sale if I plan to title the car later?
Yes, the date of sale records when ownership and liability transferred, and leaving it blank can get the form returned as incomplete.
Do I owe tax on book value if my car is one year old?
Yes, any vehicle two years old or newer that is not bought from a dealer is taxed on the NADA book value, and a bill of sale will not lower it.
Do I keep a copy of the bill of sale after filing?
Yes, always keep a photocopy, because it is your proof of the sale terms and price if the DMV or another party ever questions the transaction.
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