The Wyoming Application for Duplicate Title is the sworn form you file with your county clerk to replace a vehicle title that was lost, mutilated, or destroyed, under Wyoming Statute § 31-2-105. It tells the State of Wyoming that your old title is gone, swears that no one else holds a valid claim to the vehicle, and asks the clerk to print a new official copy in its place.
Without a title, you cannot legally sell, gift, or transfer your car, truck, trailer, boat, snowmobile, or mobile home. The form is short, but a single missing notary stamp or one unsigned owner line can send the whole packet back to you and add weeks to the wait. The official Duplicate Certificate of Title Application & Affidavit, revision 020-021 (R 4/2023), is the version used across most Wyoming counties, and a duplicate title in Wyoming carries a standard $15 fee with an 11-day hold before the new title prints.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📝 How to fill out every box on the Wyoming duplicate title form the right way the first time
- 🖊️ Why all owners must sign in front of a notary and what happens when one does not
- 🏦 How to carry a lender’s lien forward so your bank does not block the new title
- 💵 Exactly what it costs, where to mail or hand-deliver it, and how long it takes
- ⚠️ The field-level mistakes that cause rejections and how to dodge each one
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
The Wyoming Application for Duplicate Title is both an application and a sworn affidavit. It asks the county clerk who issued your first title to print a replacement, and it forces you to swear under oath that the original is truly lost, mutilated, or destroyed. The legal authority is Wyoming Statute § 31-2-105, which says any one person listed as an owner on the face of the title may apply after filing an affidavit that describes the loss.
You must file this form when the paper title to a Wyoming-titled vehicle is missing and you need proof of ownership. This covers cars, trucks, motorcycles, trailers, mobile homes, snowmobiles, and boats. People who sold a car but lost the title, heirs settling an estate, owners refinancing a loan, and sellers who simply misplaced the document all use it.
The plain-English reason the form exists is to protect against fraud. Wyoming does not want two valid titles floating around for one vehicle, so the new duplicate prints with a bold warning that it “may be subject to the rights of a person or persons under the original certificate.” If you violate the law by lying on this affidavit, the consequence is severe, because fraudulent titling is a felony under Wyoming Statute § 31-4-102. Picture Dale Hutchins, who signs a duplicate application swearing his title is lost while he has already mailed it to a buyer; that false oath can bring a fine of up to $5,000 and up to two years in prison. A common misconception is that this form transfers ownership, but it does not, because it only reprints the same ownership the original title already showed.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form, because a notary will not let you fill in blanks after you sign. Walking in prepared is the single best way to avoid a second trip and a second notary fee.
- Your vehicle title number. It is printed in the upper right corner of your vehicle registration, and without it the clerk cannot match your record, which stalls the application.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). This 17-character number on the dash or door jamb must match state records exactly, or the clerk rejects the form for a mismatch.
- Vehicle make and year. These confirm the clerk pulled the correct record, and a wrong year can flag the wrong vehicle.
- Names of every owner on the title. All owners listed on the face of the title generally must sign, so missing one stops the filing.
- A valid government photo ID for each signer. The notary will not notarize a signature without ID, and no notary means no acceptance.
- Lienholder information. If a bank or credit union holds a loan, you need their name and a representative’s signature or a letterhead letter, or the lien cannot carry forward.
- The $15 fee. Most clerks take a check payable to the county clerk, and a missing or wrong-payee check bounces the packet back.
- A mailing address for the new title. The clerk mails the duplicate to the address you list, so an error here sends your title to the wrong place.
- Access to a notary public. Every owner’s signature must be sworn, and an un-notarized form is automatically rejected.
If any single item is missing, the clerk can refuse the packet, and you start over. Brenda Olsen, who arrived with everything but her co-owner husband’s signature, learned this the hard way and had to drive back the next week.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
Wyoming handles duplicate titles at the county level, not at a central WYDOT counter, so you get the form from the clerk in the county that issued your original title. You can download the Duplicate Certificate of Title Application & Affidavit directly from your county clerk’s website, or call the office and ask them to mail or email a blank copy.
The form is nearly identical across counties because it all flows from the same statute, but each county prints its own header and address. You can find versions on the Teton County clerk page, the Natrona County duplicate titles page, and the Park County clerk forms page. Always use the form from the county that holds your record, since that is the only office that can issue your duplicate.
Check the revision date in the corner before you fill anything in. The Laramie County version reads 020-021 (R 4/2023), which tells you it is the current edition. A common mistake is printing an old saved copy from years past, and the consequence is that the clerk may ask you to redo it on the current form. Marcus Bell downloaded a 2018 PDF he had bookmarked, only to be told at the counter that the office wanted the 2023 revision.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the Wyoming Duplicate Title Application Line by Line
Work through the form from top to bottom, and do not sign until you are in front of a notary. Each field below maps to a box printed on the official form, so use the exact labels you see on the page.
1. Vehicle Description: Title Number
This field asks for the title number of the vehicle you are replacing. Write the number exactly as it appears in the upper right corner of your vehicle registration, with no extra spaces or guesses. For example, Carla Reyes copies 0123456 straight from her registration into the Title number box.
If you cannot find your registration, call the county clerk and they can often look up the number from your name and VIN. The most common mistake here is leaving the title number blank or entering a plate number instead, and the direct consequence is that the clerk cannot locate your record and returns the form. A misconception is that the VIN alone is enough, but the clerk’s system is built around the title number, so it matters.
2. Vehicle Description: VIN
This field asks for the Vehicle Identification Number, the unique 17-character code that identifies your exact vehicle. Print it in all capital letters, character for character, from the dashboard plate, the driver-side door jamb, or your registration. Carla Reyes writes 1HGCM82633A004352 in the VIN box, double-checking every letter and number.
Watch the look-alike characters, because a VIN never uses the letters I, O, or Q, so any of those is really a 1 or a 0. The common mistake is swapping a zero for the letter O, and the consequence is a mismatch that flags the application for review. Many people think the clerk will fix small typos, but they will not, because the VIN must match state records exactly.
3. Vehicle Description: Make
This field asks for the manufacturer of the vehicle. Enter the brand name as it appears on your registration, such as Honda, Ford, or Chevrolet, not the model. Carla Reyes writes Honda in the Make box, leaving the model name off because the form does not ask for it.
For trailers or homemade units, use the make shown on the original title, which may read Homemade or a builder’s name. The common mistake is entering the model, like Accord, in place of the make, and the consequence is a record that does not line up cleanly. A misconception is that make and model are the same field, but Wyoming’s form only wants the make.
4. Vehicle Description: Year
This field asks for the model year of the vehicle. Write the four-digit year exactly as it shows on your registration or title, such as 2003. Carla Reyes enters 2003 in the Year box.
Note that the model year can differ from the year you bought or first registered the vehicle, so always copy the year from the title record, not from memory. The common mistake is writing the purchase year instead of the model year, and the consequence is a mismatch with the state’s file. People often assume the year is obvious, but on older or rebuilt vehicles it is easy to guess wrong, so verify it.
5. Condition of the Original Title: Lost, Mutilated, or Destroyed
This section asks why you need a duplicate, and you must check exactly one box: lost, mutilated, or destroyed. Read the printed line carefully, because it also swears that there are no liens other than those on the original title and that the title has not been assigned to anyone else. Tom Whitaker, whose title went through the washing machine, checks the mutilated box.
Choose the box that truly fits, because this is a sworn statement, not a guess. If your title was shredded in a flood, you check destroyed; if you simply cannot find it, you check lost. The common mistake is checking two boxes or none, and the consequence is an incomplete affidavit the clerk cannot accept. A misconception is that the choice between lost and destroyed does not matter, but it is part of your sworn oath, so it must be accurate.
6. Mail-To Section: Name, Address, City, State, Zip
This section asks where the clerk should mail your finished duplicate title. Print the full name and complete mailing address, including city, state, and ZIP, of whoever should receive the new title. Tom Whitaker writes his own name and home address so the title comes straight to him.
If you use a P.O. Box, list the box number here, since the clerk mails to exactly what you write. The common mistake is an outdated or incomplete address, and the direct consequence is that your title gets lost in the mail, which the clerk’s office warns it is not responsible for. People often assume the title goes to the address on file, but the clerk uses this box instead, so fill it in fully and correctly.
7. Lienholder Acknowledgment
This section applies only if a bank, credit union, or other lender holds a loan against the vehicle and the lien must stay on the new title. The lienholder must sign on the Signature of Financial Institution Representative line and print its name on the Name of Financial Institution Holding Lien line, or supply a letter on its own letterhead. Priya Sandoval, who still owes on her truck, mails the form to her credit union first so a loan officer can sign before she submits it.
If your loan is fully paid and no lien exists, leave this section blank. The common mistake is ignoring an active lien, and the consequence is that the duplicate cannot be issued or your lender disputes it later. A misconception is that the owner can sign for the lienholder, but only an authorized representative of the financial institution can carry the lien forward.
8. Sworn Statement and Applicant Signatures
This is the oath, where you swear under penalty of perjury that everything on the form is true and that you are lawfully applying for the title. Each owner listed on the face of the title signs on a Signature of Applicant line, and you do this only in front of a notary. Priya Sandoval and her co-owner brother each sign their own line while the notary watches.
Do not sign at home, because the notary must witness the signing for it to count. The common mistake is signing in advance, and the consequence is that the notary cannot notarize it and you must reprint and start over. A misconception is that one owner can sign for everyone, but under the statute the safe practice is for every owner on the title to sign, since a missing signature can stall the duplicate.
9. Notary Public Block
This block is completed by the notary, not by you. The notary fills in the Subscribed and sworn to before me by line with the printed applicants’ names, enters the day, month, and year, signs as Notary Public or Deputy Clerk, writes the commission expiration date, and applies the seal or stamp. The notary at Priya Sandoval’s bank prints both siblings’ names, dates it 06/06/2026, and stamps the seal.
Many Wyoming county clerk offices have a deputy clerk who can notarize for free when you file in person, which saves a separate trip. The common mistake is a missing seal or a blank commission date, and the consequence is automatic rejection, since an un-notarized affidavit is not valid. A misconception is that any signature from the notary is enough, but the seal and expiration date are required parts of the block.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
The walkthroughs below show how three different filers complete the same form. Each follows one named person from the first box to the notary block.
Scenario 1: Carla Reyes — Lost Title, No Lien. Carla owns a paid-off 2003 Honda and cannot find the title after a move.
| Form Section | What Carla Enters |
|---|---|
| Title number | 0123456 from her registration |
| VIN | 1HGCM82633A004352 in all caps |
| Make | Honda |
| Year | 2003 |
| Condition box | Checks lost |
| Lienholder section | Left blank, loan is paid off |
| Mail-to | Carla Reyes, her home address |
| Applicant signature | Signs once before the notary |
| Notary block | Notary dates, signs, and stamps |
| Fee | $15 check to the county clerk |
Scenario 2: Priya Sandoval — Title With an Active Lien. Priya still owes on a 2019 Ford and the lien must carry forward.
| Form Section | What Priya Enters |
|---|---|
| Title number | 0987654 from her registration |
| VIN | 1FTEW1EP5KFA12345 in all caps |
| Make | Ford |
| Year | 2019 |
| Condition box | Checks destroyed |
| Lienholder section | Credit union name and officer signature |
| Mail-to | Priya Sandoval, her current address |
| Applicant signature | She and her co-owner brother both sign |
| Notary block | Notary lists both names, stamps seal |
| Fee | $15 check to the county clerk |
Scenario 3: Tom and Linda Whitaker — Co-Owned Vehicle. A married couple jointly owns a 2015 trailer with a mutilated title.
| Form Section | What the Whitakers Enter |
|---|---|
| Title number | 0456789 from the registration |
| VIN | 5WKBE1620FN098765 in all caps |
| Make | Featherlite |
| Year | 2015 |
| Condition box | Checks mutilated |
| Lienholder section | Left blank, trailer is paid off |
| Mail-to | Tom Whitaker, the family address |
| Applicant signatures | Tom signs one line, Linda the other |
| Notary block | Notary prints both names, stamps seal |
| Fee | $15 check to the county clerk |
How to File the Completed Form
Wyoming county clerks accept the duplicate title application by mail or in person, and there is no statewide online portal for duplicates. Pick the channel that fits your timing, and keep proof of what you sent.
In person. Bring the signed, notarized form to your county clerk’s office, or sign there so a deputy clerk can notarize it for free. Using Laramie County as an example, the office is at 309 W. 20th Street in Cheyenne, and you pay the $15 fee with a check made out to the Laramie County Clerk. The benefit is that the clerk reviews your packet on the spot, so any error gets caught before you leave.
By mail. Mail the completed, notarized form with your check to the clerk’s mailing address; for Laramie County that is PO Box 608, Cheyenne, Wyoming 82003-0608, with a phone line at (307) 633-4247 and fax at (307) 633-4240. Some counties, such as Carbon County, offer a certified-mail return option for an extra fee, often $25 total, so check your county’s instructions. The clerk’s office warns it is not responsible for titles lost in the mail, so consider tracking or certified return service.
Always keep a copy of the completed form and a record of your payment as your proof of filing. Confirm your county’s exact fee and address before sending, since the base fee is $15 but mailing add-ons vary by county.
What Happens After You File
Once the clerk accepts your form and fee, Wyoming law builds in a short waiting period before the duplicate prints, which is commonly 11 days. This pause gives any other interested party a window to come forward before a second title exists. During this time the clerk verifies your record and confirms the original title was issued by that county.
When the hold ends, the clerk mails the new title to the address in your mail-to box. The duplicate looks like a normal title but carries a printed notice that it “may be subject to the rights of a person or persons under the original certificate,” as required by Wyoming Statute § 31-2-105. That language is normal and does not weaken your ownership.
If the old title later turns up, it is null and void, because the form you signed states the previous title is voided when the duplicate issues. Do not try to use or sell the vehicle with the old document. Carla Reyes found her lost title two weeks after her duplicate arrived and simply shredded the old one, which is exactly the right move.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Small errors on this short form cause most rejections, and each one adds days or weeks to your wait. Watch for these specific traps.
- Signing before you reach the notary, which voids the oath and forces a full reprint.
- Leaving the title number blank, which stops the clerk from finding your record.
- Mixing up the VIN letters O and I with the numbers 0 and 1, which flags a mismatch.
- Checking two condition boxes or none, which makes the affidavit incomplete.
- Forgetting a co-owner’s signature, which stalls a jointly titled vehicle.
- Ignoring an active lien, which blocks the duplicate from being issued.
- Letting the owner sign the lienholder line, which the clerk will not accept.
- Writing an incomplete or outdated mail-to address, which sends your title astray.
- Skipping the notary seal or commission date, which makes the form invalid.
- Sending the wrong fee or a check to the wrong payee, which bounces the packet back.
- Using an outdated form revision, which a clerk may refuse in favor of the current edition.
- Filing with the wrong county, since only the county that issued your title can replace it.
Do’s and Don’ts
These quick rules keep your application clean and moving.
- Do copy your title number and VIN straight from official paperwork, because guesses cause mismatches.
- Do confirm every owner is present to sign, since missing signatures stall the filing.
- Do sign only in front of the notary, because that is the only way the oath counts.
- Do contact your lienholder early, since a loan officer’s signature can take days.
- Do keep a copy and a payment record, because that is your proof of filing.
- Do call your county clerk to confirm the current fee, since mailing add-ons differ.
- Don’t check more than one condition box, because the affidavit must be precise.
- Don’t mail the only signed copy without tracking, since the clerk is not liable for lost mail.
- Don’t use an old saved PDF, because the clerk may require the current revision.
- Don’t assume one owner can sign for all, since each owner’s oath protects the record.
- Don’t file with a county that did not issue your title, because they cannot help.
- Don’t try to use the old title if it reappears, since it is legally void.
Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most people file this form themselves, but some use a title service or attorney for tricky cases. The table below weighs both paths.
| Filing on Your Own | Filing With Help |
|---|---|
| Costs only the $15 fee, so it is the cheapest route. | Adds a service fee, but saves you time and effort. |
| Gives you full control over accuracy, since you check every box. | Brings expertise for liens, estates, or bonded titles. |
| Works well for simple paid-off vehicles, because the form is short. | Helps when ownership proof is missing under § 31-2-105(b). |
| Lets you sign at the clerk for free notarization, saving money. | Useful for out-of-state owners who cannot visit in person. |
| Builds your own familiarity for next time, which is handy. | Reduces stress for heirs settling an estate. |
Pros of doing it yourself: it is cheap, fast for simple cases, fully in your control, free to notarize at the clerk, and educational for future filings. Cons of doing it yourself: you carry the risk of errors, must handle lien coordination alone, face the learning curve, manage the notary step yourself, and have no expert to catch edge cases like a needed indemnity bond.
Special Case: When You Cannot Prove Ownership
If you do not have a prior title, a notarized bill of sale, or other proof the clerk accepts, you cannot use the standard duplicate path and must follow Wyoming Statute § 31-2-105(b). In plain terms, the law lets the clerk issue a title only if you file an affidavit of vehicle ownership and post an indemnity bond. The bond must equal at least double the vehicle’s value and protects past owners and lienholders from loss.
The consequence of skipping this when proof is missing is simple: the clerk cannot issue any title at all. There are relief valves, though. If the vehicle is worth less than $2,500, the law allows a title without a bond when you provide an affidavit, a notarized bill of sale, a dealer’s written value statement, and a VIN inspection. Hank Doyle, who bought a $1,200 farm truck with only a handwritten receipt, used this low-value path instead of buying a bond.
A common misconception is that this bonded process is the same as a routine duplicate, but it is a different and heavier procedure for owners who lack standard proof. Restorers fixing a vehicle for personal use have yet another option under subsection (f), where a title can issue without a bond but stays nontransferable for 180 days.
FAQs
Do I have to get the form notarized?
Yes. Every applicant’s signature must be sworn before a notary public or a deputy clerk, and an un-notarized form is rejected, so never sign it at home in advance.
Can just one owner sign if the car is co-owned?
No. Although the statute defines “owner” broadly, the safe practice is that all owners on the face of the title sign, because a missing signature commonly stalls a jointly titled vehicle.
How much does a Wyoming duplicate title cost?
Yes, there is a fee, and it is $15 in most counties, payable by check to the county clerk, though some counties charge extra for a certified-mail return.
How long does it take to get the duplicate?
Yes, there is a wait, commonly an 11-day hold after the clerk accepts your form before the new title prints and is mailed to your listed address.
Where do I find my title number?
Yes, it is on your vehicle registration, in the upper right corner, and you copy it exactly into the title number box at the top of the form.
Do I write the make or the model in the Make box?
Yes, write only the make, such as Honda or Ford, because the form asks for the manufacturer and not the model name like Accord.
What do I put in the Lienholder section if my loan is paid off?
No entry is needed; leave the lienholder section blank when no lien exists, because that section is only for loans that must carry forward.
Which condition box do I check if I just misplaced it?
Yes, check the lost box, and pick only one of lost, mutilated, or destroyed, since checking two or none makes the affidavit incomplete.
Can I file the form online?
No. Wyoming counties accept the duplicate application by mail or in person at the county clerk, and there is no statewide online portal for duplicate titles.
Which county do I file with?
Yes, you must file with the county clerk that issued your original title, because only that office holds your record and can print the replacement.
Is the old title still valid if I find it later?
No. The previous title becomes null and void when the duplicate issues, so you shred the old one and use only the new duplicate.
What if I have no proof of ownership at all?
No, you cannot use the standard form; you follow § 31-2-105(b) with an affidavit of ownership and an indemnity bond, unless the vehicle is worth under $2,500.
Can a deputy clerk notarize my form for free?
Yes, many county clerk offices have a deputy clerk who can notarize when you sign in person, which saves you a separate notary visit and fee.
Does the duplicate title look different from a normal one?
Yes, it prints with a notice that it may be subject to rights under the original certificate, but this is standard and does not weaken your ownership.
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