Indiana State Form 44237 (R5 / 4-21) is the Vehicle/Vessel Bill of Sale issued by the Indiana Bureau of Motor Vehicles, and any private seller or buyer transferring a vehicle or watercraft uses it to record the sale in writing. The form proves who sold what, for how much, and on what date, and it can stand in as proof of ownership when no certificate of title exists.
Every year, thousands of Indiana private-party car deals close with a handshake and a signature, yet the BMV reports that incomplete or mismatched paperwork is a leading reason title applications get rejected at the branch counter. A single blank box, a wrong VIN digit, or a missing seller signature can send a buyer home empty-handed and force both sides to redo the deal. This guide walks you through the form one box at a time so your sale sticks the first time.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📝 How to fill out every box on State Form 44237 in the correct order and format.
- 🚗 When a bill of sale alone can transfer ownership and when it cannot under Indiana law.
- 🛥️ How the watercraft-only fields work, including the 45-day temporary certificate of number.
- ⚠️ The exact field-level mistakes that get title applications rejected at the BMV branch.
- ✅ How to file the completed form and what documents must travel with it.
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
State Form 44237 is the official Vehicle/Vessel Bill of Sale that records the transfer of a car, truck, trailer, off-road vehicle, or watercraft from a seller to a buyer in Indiana. The Indiana Bureau of Motor Vehicles receives the form when a buyer brings it to a branch to apply for a title or registration. The form lives under Indiana’s vehicle title laws found in Indiana Code Title 9, Article 17, which governs how ownership of a titled vehicle passes from one person to another.
The people who file this form are everyday Hoosiers, not businesses or lawyers. A private seller fills it out to show they no longer own the vehicle and to limit their liability for what happens after the sale. A private buyer keeps it as proof of the price paid and the date of the deal, which matters for sales tax and registration. Dealers do not use this form because dealer sales run through different paperwork.
The form solves a real problem: without a written record, a buyer cannot prove they own the vehicle and a seller cannot prove they sold it. If the buyer later runs a red light or abandons the car, the seller can point to the dated bill of sale to show the vehicle was no longer theirs. Getting the form wrong, or skipping it, can leave a seller on the hook for tickets, tolls, or storage fees tied to a car they no longer drive.
It is important to know the form’s limits. A bill of sale cannot transfer ownership of a vehicle that Indiana law requires to be titled, except in a short list of special cases. For a normal used car with a valid title, the signed-over certificate of title is the main ownership document, and the bill of sale is a supporting record.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form. Filling it out from memory invites errors, and a single wrong digit in the VIN or sale price can stall the buyer’s title application at the BMV branch.
- The certificate of title. This is the source for the year, make, model, and VIN. If you copy these from memory and they do not match the title, the BMV rejects the application.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Pull this directly from the title or the dashboard plate. A VIN required as the primary ownership document must be exact, since the BMV cross-checks it against state records.
- Seller’s full legal name and address. This must match the name on the title. A nickname or old address can break the chain of ownership.
- Buyer’s full legal name and address. The buyer needs this to register the vehicle in their name. A misspelled name can force a corrected title later.
- The agreed purchase price. Indiana charges 7% sales tax on this number, so an inflated or rounded figure costs the buyer real money.
- The date of sale. This sets the clock for registration deadlines and watercraft temporary certificates. A wrong date can make a registration look late.
- Watercraft details (if selling a boat). You need the hull length, state of principal operation, and any existing registration number.
- A blue or black ink pen. The form must be printed or completed in blue or black ink, and pencil or colored ink can get it rejected.
- A second blank copy. The seller prepares two copies so each party keeps one signed original.
- State Form 39530 if using the bill of sale as primary proof. A Physical Inspection of a Vehicle or Watercraft must accompany a bill-of-sale title application.
If any item is missing, stop and find it. A missing VIN on a primary-ownership filing means the BMV cannot title the vehicle, and a missing seller signature voids the entire transfer.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The only version you should use is the official one from the state. Download the current State Form 44237 PDF directly from the Indiana forms portal, where it appears as the Vehicle/Vessel Bill of Sale. Using the official PDF guarantees you have the correct field labels and the current revision date printed in the lower corner.
The form’s revision marking reads R5 / 4-21, meaning the latest released version dates to April 2021. Check this marking before you fill anything in, because a buyer who shows up with an outdated or off-brand template risks having the branch clerk question its validity. The state version is free, and you never need to pay a third-party website to access it.
You have three ways to get the blank form. First, download and print it from the forms.in.gov portal at home. Second, pick up a paper copy at any BMV branch front counter. Third, fill it on a computer using the fillable PDF, then print it for signatures, since wet-ink signatures are still expected.
Print the form single-sided on plain white letter paper. A faded or cut-off printout can hide box numbers or instructions, and a clerk may refuse a copy that is hard to read. Keep the formatting clean so every field stays legible.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out State Form 44237 Line by Line
Work through the form from top to bottom in the order the boxes appear. The form is one page split into a vehicle/watercraft description block, a sale information block, and two signature blocks. Print or write in blue or black ink, and use ALL CAPS for names and addresses so the entries are easy to read.
Vehicle Description: Year, Make, and Model
This top section asks what you are selling, starting with the vehicle’s model year, manufacturer, and model name. Copy these three details straight from the certificate of title, not from your memory or the car’s badging. For example, Marcus Whitfield selling his pickup writes 2015 for year, FORD for make, and F-150 for model.
A common edge case is a vehicle whose badge name differs from the title, such as a trim package the manufacturer markets separately. Always defer to the title’s wording, because the BMV matches your entry against the titled description. The most common mistake here is writing the trim or body style in the model box, which can cause a mismatch and a request for a corrected form. Many people believe the make and model are interchangeable, but the make is the brand and the model is the specific line, so keep them in their own boxes.
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This field asks for the unique 17-character code that identifies the exact vehicle. Copy the VIN one character at a time from the title or the dashboard plate, and double-check every digit, since a single wrong character points to a different vehicle. Marcus writes 1FTEW1EP5FFA12345 exactly as it reads on his title.
The key nuance is when the VIN is required. The BMV states the VIN is required when the bill of sale is the primary ownership document, but not when it merely supports missing information on an existing title. The most damaging mistake is transposing two digits, which makes the form describe a vehicle that does not exist in state records and triggers an outright rejection. A frequent misconception is that the VIN and the license plate number are the same; they are not, and the plate number does not belong in this box.
Watercraft-Only Fields: Length, State of Operation, Registration Number, Date of Issuance
These four boxes apply only when you sell a boat or vessel, and car sellers leave them blank. They capture the overall length of the vessel, the state of principal operation, the existing registration number, and the date that registration was issued. For example, Diane Kessler selling her fishing boat enters 16 FT for length, INDIANA for state of principal operation, IN 1234 AB for the registration number, and 05/10/2022 for date of issuance.
The nuance here is that not every box applies to every boat; the registration number and date of issuance are filled only if applicable. The biggest mistake car sellers make is writing vehicle data into these watercraft boxes, which confuses the clerk and clutters the record. Some people wrongly believe a boat trailer goes in these fields, but the trailer is a separate titled item with its own paperwork.
Sale Information: Purchase Price
This field asks how much money changed hands for the vehicle or watercraft. Write the actual agreed price in dollars, such as $8,500.00, and never round it up or down to make the math easier. Marcus and his buyer agreed on $8,500.00, so that exact figure goes in the box.
The nuance involves gifts and trades: a true gift may show a nominal value, but Indiana taxes most transfers on fair market value, so a suspiciously low number invites scrutiny. The costly mistake is understating the price to dodge sales tax, which is a false statement on a sworn form and can constitute perjury. A common misconception is that listing a low price saves the buyer money with no risk, but the BMV can assess tax on the vehicle’s actual value and pursue penalties.
Sale Information: Date of Sale
This field records the calendar date the sale closed. Write it in MM/DD/YYYY format, such as 07/15/2026, matching the day money and keys changed hands. Marcus completes his deal on 07/15/2026 and writes that exact date.
The nuance is that this date starts important clocks, including the buyer’s deadline to register and the 45-day window for a watercraft temporary certificate. The frequent mistake is back-dating or guessing the date, which can make a later registration look overdue and expose the buyer to late fees. People often assume the date of sale is the date they sign the form, but if you sign days after the handoff, use the true sale date and not the signing date.
Buyer (Purchaser) Information: Name and Address
This block asks who is buying the vehicle, captured by full legal name and complete mailing address. Print the buyer’s name exactly as it appears on their driver’s license, then the street, city, state, and ZIP. Aisha Bennett, the buyer, writes AISHA BENNETT and 412 MAPLE STREET, INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46208.
A common edge case is a buyer who uses a P.O. Box; list the physical street address when possible, since the BMV ties registration to a residence. The mistake to avoid is abbreviating or misspelling the buyer’s legal name, which can produce a title in the wrong name and require a costly correction. Many buyers think they can register the car under a nickname, but the title must match their legal identity documents.
Seller Information: Name and Address
This block identifies who is selling, by full legal name and address, and it must match the name on the certificate of title. Print the seller’s legal name and current address in blue or black ink. Marcus Whitfield writes MARCUS WHITFIELD and 88 RIVERVIEW ROAD, BLOOMINGTON, IN 47401.
The nuance arises with co-owned vehicles: if the title lists two owners joined by “and,” both must appear and both must sign. The serious mistake is a seller name that differs from the title, which breaks the chain of ownership and blocks the transfer until corrected. A widespread misconception is that the registered driver can sell the car; only the person named on the title has the legal right to transfer it.
Seller’s Certification and Signature
Above the seller’s signature sits a sworn statement that the seller conveys all rights to the buyer and certifies the vehicle is free of any liens that are the seller’s responsibility. The seller signs and dates this block in MM/DD/YYYY format, swearing the information is correct and acknowledging that a false statement may be perjury. Marcus signs his name and writes 07/15/2026 beside it.
The nuance is the lien certification: if a loan is still attached, the seller must clear it or disclose it, because certifying “no liens” while a loan exists is a false statement. The most serious mistake is leaving the seller signature blank, which voids the entire bill of sale and gives the buyer nothing to title with. People often believe a typed name counts as a signature, but a handwritten wet-ink signature is the expected standard for this sworn document.
Purchaser’s Certification, Watercraft Acknowledgment, and Signature
This final block has the buyer swear the information is correct and, for watercraft, acknowledge that the bill of sale may serve as a temporary certificate of number valid for no more than 45 days from the date of sale. The buyer signs and dates in MM/DD/YYYY format. Aisha signs and writes 07/15/2026.
The nuance is the 45-day rule for boats: the buyer must complete full registration within that window or lose the right to legally operate the vessel. The common mistake is a buyer skipping this signature, which weakens the record and can complicate a future dispute over the deal. Some buyers think the 45-day temporary certificate applies to cars too, but that watercraft provision does not extend driving privileges for an untitled automobile.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
The scenarios below show three of the most common ways Hoosiers use State Form 44237. Each follows one named filer through the key sections of the form.
Scenario 1 — Private used-car sale with a clean title (Marcus sells to Aisha).
| Form Section | What Marcus and Aisha Enter |
|---|---|
| Year | 2015 |
| Make | FORD |
| Model | F-150 |
| VIN | 1FTEW1EP5FFA12345 |
| Watercraft fields | Left blank |
| Purchase Price | $8,500.00 |
| Date of Sale | 07/15/2026 |
| Buyer Name and Address | AISHA BENNETT, 412 MAPLE STREET, INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46208 |
| Seller Name and Address | MARCUS WHITFIELD, 88 RIVERVIEW ROAD, BLOOMINGTON, IN 47401 |
| Seller Signature and Date | Marcus Whitfield, 07/15/2026 |
| Buyer Signature and Date | Aisha Bennett, 07/15/2026 |
Scenario 2 — Selling a watercraft and using the 45-day temporary certificate (Diane sells a boat).
| Form Section | What Diane and Her Buyer Enter |
|---|---|
| Year | 2018 |
| Make | TRACKER |
| Model | PRO TEAM 175 |
| Overall Length of Vessel | 16 FT |
| State of Principal Operation | INDIANA |
| Registration Number | IN 1234 AB |
| Date of Issuance | 05/10/2022 |
| Purchase Price | $6,200.00 |
| Date of Sale | 07/15/2026 |
| Buyer Signature (acknowledges 45-day rule) | Robert Hahn, 07/15/2026 |
| Seller Signature and Date | Diane Kessler, 07/15/2026 |
Scenario 3 — Untitled vehicle using the bill of sale as primary proof (Janet titles an old utility trailer).
| Form Section | What Janet Enters |
|---|---|
| Year | 1988 |
| Make | HOMEMADE |
| Model | UTILITY TRAILER |
| VIN (required as primary proof) | Provided from inspection |
| Watercraft fields | Left blank |
| Purchase Price | $400.00 |
| Date of Sale | 07/15/2026 |
| Buyer Name and Address | JANET RIOS, 7 OAK LANE, FORT WAYNE, IN 46802 |
| Seller Name and Address | PAUL DECKER, 19 HILL ROAD, MUNCIE, IN 47302 |
| Attached Form | State Form 39530 Physical Inspection |
| Seller Signature and Date | Paul Decker, 07/15/2026 |
In Janet’s case, the trailer was purchased before January 1, 1990, which is one of the limited situations where a bill of sale serves as primary proof of ownership. She must attach a completed Physical Inspection form to satisfy the BMV.
How to File the Completed Form
The bill of sale itself is not “filed” with the BMV the way a tax return is; instead, the buyer presents it as part of a title or registration application. The seller prepares two copies and keeps one, while the buyer takes the other to title the vehicle.
File in person at a BMV branch. Bring the signed bill of sale, the assigned certificate of title, and your ID to any BMV branch location. The standard certificate of title fee is $15.00, and you also pay 7% sales tax on the purchase price. Branches accept cash, check, and most debit or credit cards, and you walk out with an interim record while the title prints and mails within a few weeks.
File the title application by mail. Send the signed title, the bill of sale, and any required forms to the Indiana BMV Central Office using the address listed on the title application instructions. Pay the $15.00 title fee plus tax by check or money order. Mailed applications take longer to process, often several weeks, so keep a copy of everything you send.
Online and supporting use. Routine registration renewals run through the myBMV online portal, but a title transfer based on a bill of sale generally requires an in-person or mailed application. In every channel, keep your retained signed copy as proof of filing, since it is your evidence of the date, the price, and the transfer of liability.
What Happens After You File
Once the buyer submits the bill of sale with a complete title application, the BMV reviews the paperwork and, if everything matches, issues a new certificate of title in the buyer’s name. The printed title usually arrives by mail within a few weeks, and the buyer receives plates and registration to operate the vehicle legally.
If the bill of sale is used as primary proof of ownership, the BMV also reviews the attached Physical Inspection State Form 39530 to confirm the VIN matches the vehicle. The buyer pays sales tax based on the purchase price written on the form, which is why an accurate price matters. A mismatch between the form and state records triggers a hold and a request for corrected documents.
For the seller, the dated bill of sale becomes a shield. If the new owner racks up tolls, parking tickets, or abandons the vehicle, the seller can show the form to prove they transferred ownership on a specific date. Indiana also lets sellers report the transfer so the state’s records reflect the change promptly.
For a watercraft buyer, the 45-day temporary certificate of number starts ticking from the date of sale. The buyer must complete full watercraft registration within that window, or they lose the legal right to operate the vessel on Indiana waters.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
Each error below has a direct, costly consequence. Read this list before you sign.
- Leaving the seller signature blank. The transfer is void, and the buyer cannot title the vehicle.
- Transposing VIN digits. The form describes the wrong vehicle and the application is rejected.
- Copying year, make, or model from memory. A mismatch with the title forces a corrected form.
- Understating the purchase price. This is a false statement and can lead to back-taxed assessment and perjury exposure.
- Using pencil or colored ink. The form may be refused because it must be in blue or black ink.
- Writing the license plate number in the VIN box. The plate is not the VIN, and the entry is invalid.
- Putting vehicle data in the watercraft-only fields. This confuses the record and can delay processing.
- Using a nickname instead of a legal name. The title prints incorrectly and needs a paid correction.
- Back-dating the date of sale. A wrong date can make the buyer’s registration look late and trigger fees.
- Certifying “no liens” while a loan exists. This is a false sworn statement that can void the sale and create legal liability.
- Forgetting the Physical Inspection form for primary-proof filings. The BMV cannot title the vehicle without it.
- Not keeping a signed copy. The seller loses their proof of transfer and stays exposed to the buyer’s later actions.
Do’s and Don’ts
Follow these quick rules to keep your transfer clean and accepted.
Do’s
- Do copy the VIN, year, make, and model straight from the title, because the BMV matches your entries against state records.
- Do prepare two signed copies, so both buyer and seller keep an original record of the deal.
- Do write the true purchase price, because Indiana bases sales tax on this exact figure.
- Do use blue or black ink or a printed form, since other formats can be refused at the counter.
- Do attach State Form 39530 when using the bill of sale as primary proof, because the BMV requires the inspection.
- Do keep your copy after the sale, because it protects the seller from future liability.
Don’ts
- Don’t leave any signature line blank, because an unsigned form transfers nothing.
- Don’t understate the price to save tax, because it is a false statement that can constitute perjury.
- Don’t use a bill of sale for a normally titled car with a valid title, because the signed title is the main ownership document.
- Don’t guess the VIN, because one wrong character points to a different vehicle.
- Don’t fill the watercraft boxes for a car, because those fields apply only to vessels.
- Don’t rely on a bill of sale to override information on a title, because the title’s information controls.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most private-party sales are simple enough to handle without help, but some situations call for support.
Pros of filing on your own
- It is free, since you only pay the standard BMV title fee and tax, not a service charge.
- It is fast, because you control the timing and can visit a branch the same day.
- The form is short, with only a description block, sale block, and signatures.
- You keep privacy, because no third party handles your personal details.
- You learn the process, which helps with future sales or purchases.
Cons of filing on your own
- You bear the risk of errors, and a single mistake can stall the title.
- You must research special cases yourself, such as untitled or out-of-state vehicles.
- You handle lien issues alone, which can be tricky if a loan is still attached.
- You may misjudge tax, and an undervalued sale can trigger a later assessment.
- You get no legal review, so a complex co-owner or estate sale may slip through with gaps.
FAQs
Is State Form 44237 required to be notarized?
No. The BMV states the bill of sale is not required to be notarized or signed under penalties for perjury, though the form itself carries a sworn-statement acknowledgment.
Can I use a bill of sale to title a regular car that already has a title?
No. A bill of sale cannot transfer a vehicle that Indiana law requires to be titled; the signed-over certificate of title is the main ownership document, with the bill of sale as support.
Do I write the license plate number in the VIN box?
No. The VIN is the 17-character identifier on the title and dashboard, while the plate number is separate and does not belong in that field.
Is the VIN always required on the form?
No. The VIN is required only when the bill of sale is the primary ownership document, not when it supports missing information on an existing title.
Do I list the purchase price or the value the BMV assigns?
Yes, list the actual agreed purchase price, because Indiana bases the 7% sales tax on that figure and a false low number risks penalties.
Should I fill the watercraft length and registration boxes for a car?
No. Those four fields apply only to watercraft, so a car seller leaves them blank.
Does the buyer have to sign the form?
Yes for watercraft, because the buyer’s signature acknowledges the 45-day temporary certificate; for vehicles the buyer signature still strengthens the record.
Is the watercraft temporary certificate of number valid for 90 days?
No. It is valid for no more than 45 days from the date of sale shown on the form.
Can a registered driver who is not on the title sell the vehicle?
No. Only the person named on the certificate of title has the legal right to sell and sign the transfer.
Do I need a separate form if a mechanic’s lien is involved?
Yes. A mechanic’s lien sale uses State Form 23104, the Mechanic’s Lien Bill of Sale, not the standard 44237.
Must I attach anything when using the bill of sale as primary proof of ownership?
Yes. You must include a Physical Inspection of a Vehicle or Watercraft, State Form 39530, with the application.
Can the bill of sale override a price already written on the title?
No. If the title and bill of sale disagree, the BMV uses the information written on the certificate of title.
Should the seller keep a copy after the sale?
Yes. The seller prepares two copies and keeps one signed original as proof of the transfer date and protection from future liability.
Is back-dating the date of sale ever a good idea?
No. A false date can make the buyer’s registration look late, trigger fees, and amounts to a false statement on a sworn form.
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