Idaho Form ITD 3738 is the official Bill of Sale that records the private sale of a vehicle, boat hull, trailer, or manufactured home, and it serves as the seller’s sworn proof of the price, the odometer reading, and any title brands tied to the unit. You fill it out, both parties sign it, and the buyer hands it to a county DMV when applying for a new title and registration.
This form protects both sides of the deal. A clean, correct Bill of Sale lets the buyer title the vehicle within the legal window, and it shields the seller from blame if the buyer drives off and never registers the car. Idaho processes hundreds of thousands of title transfers each year, and a missing or sloppy Bill of Sale is one of the most common reasons a transfer gets bounced back at the counter.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 🚗 What Form ITD 3738 is, who must file it, and which agency receives it
- 📋 Every document and number you need to gather before you start writing
- ✍️ A line-by-line walkthrough of all 30+ boxes on the form, with sample entries
- 👥 Three full filled-out examples using real-world sale scenarios
- ⚠️ The exact mistakes that get a transfer rejected and the penalties that follow
The current version of this form is Form ITD 3738, and you should confirm you are using the copy hosted on the Idaho Transportation Department site so your box labels match this guide.
What the Form Is and Who Must File It
Form ITD 3738 is a Bill of Sale issued by the Idaho Transportation Department (ITD), Division of Motor Vehicles. It is a legal record that ownership of a vehicle, vessel hull, trailer, or manufactured home moved from a seller to a buyer on a specific date for a specific price. The form is filed with the buyer’s local county DMV office, which in Idaho is run through the County Assessor’s Motor Vehicle office, not a state counter.
The form exists because Idaho law treats a vehicle title transfer as a sworn transaction. When the seller signs the form, they certify the odometer reading, the selling price, and any brands on the title. Under Section 49-518(5), Idaho Code, listing a false selling price, name, or address on this form is a felony, so the form carries real legal weight, not just paperwork value.
Almost anyone who sells or buys a vehicle in a private deal will touch this form. Private sellers use it to prove they no longer own the car. Private buyers use it as the foundation document to apply for a new title and registration. Dealers handle their own paperwork, but a Bill of Sale still appears in gift transfers, estate transfers, and casual party-to-party sales of boats, trailers, ATVs, and motor homes.
The form ties together several moving parts. The purpose is proof of sale. The agency is the county DMV acting for ITD. The statute is Idaho Code Title 49. The deadline is 30 days for the buyer to apply for title. The penalty is a late fee for the buyer and felony exposure for a seller who lies. Each piece depends on the others, and the Bill of Sale is the thread that connects them.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form. Filling boxes from memory is how errors creep in, and a single wrong VIN digit can force the buyer to come back another day.
- The vehicle title. You need the title in hand to copy the title number and confirm the VIN. Without it, the buyer cannot complete the transfer and may need a duplicate title first.
- The full VIN or Hull Identification Number. This is the unique 17-character code on most modern vehicles. A wrong VIN means the form does not match the title and the transfer stops.
- The odometer reading. Read the dash on the day of sale, with no tenths. A guessed number is a false certification and can void the sale.
- Both parties’ full legal names. Use names exactly as they appear on each person’s driver’s license. Nicknames create a mismatch the county clerk will reject.
- The buyer’s Idaho Driver’s License number or SSN/EIN. The form requires an ID number for the record. A business buyer uses its EIN instead.
- Physical and mailing addresses for both parties. A P.O. Box alone is not a physical address, and the county needs a real street location for the buyer.
- The true selling price. This drives the 6% sales tax the buyer pays at the counter. A lowball figure is the felony trap described above.
- The sale date. This starts the buyer’s 30-day clock and the seller’s 5-day release-of-liability clock.
- Any title brands. Know whether the vehicle is rebuilt salvage, reconstructed, or repaired so you can disclose it. Hidden brands are a felony and a lawsuit waiting to happen.
- The new lienholder name, or “None.” If the buyer is financing, you need the lender’s name and address; if not, write None.
Having all ten items ready means you can complete and sign the form in one sitting and hand the buyer a packet they can take straight to the county DMV.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The form lives on the Idaho DMV website. Download the official Bill of Sale PDF directly from ITD so you get the current layout with the correct box labels. You can also pick up a paper copy at any County Assessor’s Motor Vehicle office.
You have three ways to get a usable copy. First, print the blank PDF and fill it in by hand in dark ink. Second, type your answers into the fillable PDF fields on a computer, then print and sign. Third, request a counter copy at your local county DMV if you prefer to fill it out on site with staff nearby.
The form is free. There is no charge to download, print, or obtain the Bill of Sale itself; the fees come later when the buyer applies for title and registration. Avoid third-party sites that charge for “access” to a state form, since the official ITD copy costs nothing.
One copy is rarely enough. Print or save at least two copies so the seller keeps one for their records and the buyer carries one to the county DMV. A seller who keeps a signed copy has proof of the sale date if a dispute ever arises over tickets or tolls after the handoff.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form ITD 3738 Line by Line
Work through the form top to bottom. The fields below appear in the order they sit on the official form, and each entry on the form should be printed clearly in dark ink. Sample entries are shown in italics so you can tell them apart from the instructions.
1. Vehicle or Hull Identification Number (1st)
This box asks for the main identifying number of the unit you are selling. For a car, truck, or motorcycle, it is the 17-character VIN; for a boat, it is the Hull Identification Number stamped on the transom.
Copy the number exactly from the title or the VIN plate, character by character, with no spaces or dashes. Double-check every digit, since a 0 and the letter O are easy to confuse.
For example, Daniel Reyes enters 1HGCM82633A004352 for his Honda Accord, matching the VIN on his title.
What if the VIN on the title does not match the dash plate? Stop and resolve it before selling, because the title may need correction first. A common mistake is transposing two digits, and the direct consequence is that the form will not match the title, so the county clerk rejects the whole transfer. Many people think the license plate number goes here, but the plate has nothing to do with the VIN field and entering it will derail the transfer.
2. Title Number
This box asks for the number printed on the face of the Idaho Certificate of Title for the vehicle. It links your Bill of Sale to the exact title record the county will pull up.
Find the title number on the front of the paper title, usually near the top, and copy it precisely. It is a string of digits and sometimes letters unique to that title.
For example, Daniel Reyes writes T1234567 from the top of his Idaho title.
What if you are selling on an out-of-state title? Enter the number from that state’s title instead, and the buyer will surrender it during the transfer. A common mistake is leaving this blank because it seems minor, and the consequence is extra back-and-forth at the counter while staff hunt for the record. People often assume the title number is the same as the VIN, but they are two separate numbers and must both be entered.
3. Vehicle Identification Number (2nd)
This box asks for a second VIN, which applies to specific units. The form’s note states that a second VIN should be provided for most motor homes and must be entered for double-wide mobile and manufactured homes.
For a standard car, truck, or motorcycle, you leave this box blank. For a motor home or a manufactured home, enter the secondary identification number from the second chassis or section.
For example, Karen Mills, selling a double-wide manufactured home, enters the second section’s serial number MH998877B here.
What if your motor home has only one VIN plate? Enter the one you have and note it; the county can guide you on inspection. A common mistake is entering the same VIN twice on a regular car, which confuses the record. Many sellers think this box is required for every vehicle, but it is only meant for motor homes and multi-section homes.
4. Weight
This box asks for the registered or shipping weight of the unit, which the county uses to set registration fees. Heavier vehicles often carry higher fees.
Enter the weight in pounds as listed on the title or the manufacturer’s plate. For most passenger cars this is the curb weight already on the title.
For example, Daniel Reyes enters 3150 for his Accord’s weight in pounds.
What if you cannot find the weight? Check the driver’s door jamb sticker, which lists gross vehicle weight rating. A common mistake is guessing a round number, which can throw off the buyer’s fee calculation. People often think weight is optional for cars, but the county relies on it to bill the correct registration fee.
5. Full Length and Width
This box asks for the dimensions of the unit, which matters most for trailers, boats, and manufactured homes. It helps the county classify and fee the unit correctly.
Enter length and width in feet for a trailer, boat, or manufactured home. For a standard car this box is usually left blank.
For example, Karen Mills enters 56 x 28 for the length and width of her double-wide home.
What if you are selling a utility trailer? Measure the deck length and overall width and enter both. A common mistake is leaving this blank on a trailer or boat, which slows the classification. Many people assume this box applies to cars, but for passenger vehicles it is normally skipped.
6. Vehicle Year, Make, and Model
These boxes ask for the model year, the manufacturer, and the model name of the unit. Together they describe the vehicle in plain terms that match the title.
Enter the four-digit year, the make, and the model exactly as shown on the title. Use the manufacturer’s spelling, not a nickname.
For example, Daniel Reyes writes 2006, Honda, and Accord EX in these three boxes.
What if the title shows a make spelled differently than the badge on the car? Match the title, because the county compares against the title record. A common mistake is writing a trim or color in the model box, which creates a mismatch. People often think the year means the year they bought it, but it means the manufacturer’s model year printed on the title.
7. Description
This box gives space for extra detail about the unit, such as body style, color, or special equipment. It rounds out the picture for the record.
Enter a short, plain description like body type and color. Keep it factual and brief.
For example, Daniel Reyes writes 4-door sedan, silver in the description box.
What if the car has aftermarket changes? You can note them, but the brands section handles legal alterations. A common mistake is cramming the VIN or price here, which belongs in its own field. Many people skip this box thinking it is required to be long, but a simple body-style note is enough.
8. Brands (Rebuilt Salvage, Previous Brand, Reconstruct, Repaired, Other)
This section asks you to disclose any brands on the title, which are legal flags that the vehicle was salvaged, reconstructed, repaired, or otherwise altered. The seller certifies they have disclosed all known brands.
Check the box that matches the vehicle’s history: Rebuilt Salvage, Previous Brand, Reconstruct, Repaired, or Other. If the vehicle is clean with no brands, leave them unchecked.
For example, Marcus Webb, selling a car that was totaled and rebuilt, checks Rebuilt Salvage.
What if you are not sure whether a past repair counts as a brand? Check the title, because brands are printed on it, and disclose anything listed. A common mistake is hiding a salvage brand to get a better price, and the consequence is felony exposure under Idaho Code plus a likely lawsuit from the buyer. Many sellers believe a repaired fender creates a brand, but only title-level brands need disclosure here.
9. Odometer Reading and Brand (Actual Miles, Not Actual, Exceeds Mechanical Limits, Exempt, No Odometer)
This section asks for the mileage on the day of sale, with no tenths, plus a box describing the reading. The seller certifies the reading is accurate to the best of their knowledge.
Write the whole-number mileage, then check one box: Actual Miles, Not Actual, Exceeds Mechanical Limits, Exempt, or No Odometer. Federal rules require an odometer disclosure for vehicles under ten years old and under 16,000 pounds.
For example, Daniel Reyes writes 128450 and checks Actual Miles.
What if the odometer rolled past its limit, like a 5-digit dial that passed 99,999? Check Exceeds Mechanical Limits so the buyer knows true mileage is higher. A common mistake is checking Actual Miles when you know the cluster was replaced, which is false certification with criminal exposure. People often think Exempt applies to old high-mileage cars, but it applies to vehicles old enough or heavy enough to be outside the federal disclosure rule.
10. Seller’s Full Legal Printed Name
This box asks for the seller’s complete legal name, printed clearly. It identifies who is transferring ownership.
Print your first, middle, and last name exactly as they appear on your driver’s license. Do not use a nickname or initials only.
For example, Daniel Reyes prints Daniel Andrew Reyes.
What if two people are on the title? Both owners must be named and must sign, depending on how the title reads. A common mistake is using a nickname like Dan, which creates a name mismatch and a rejected transfer. Many sellers think a signature alone is enough, but the printed name and the signature are separate required entries.
11. Buyer’s Full Legal Printed Name
This box asks for the buyer’s complete legal name, printed clearly. It records who is taking ownership and who will title the vehicle.
The buyer prints their first, middle, and last name as shown on their license. A business buyer prints the registered business name.
For example, Aisha Bello prints Aisha Folake Bello as the buyer.
What if the buyer wants the car in two names? List both buyers, and both should sign as buyers. A common mistake is the seller filling in a nickname for the buyer, which will not match the buyer’s title application. People often assume the seller fills this in, but the buyer should confirm their own legal name is correct.
12. Seller’s Physical Address, City, State, Zip Code
These boxes ask for the seller’s real street address, not a mailbox. They tie the seller to a verifiable location.
Enter the street number, street name, city, state, and ZIP where the seller physically lives. Use a real street address, not a P.O. Box.
For example, Daniel Reyes enters 742 Maple St, Boise, ID, 83702.
What if the seller only has a P.O. Box? You still must give a physical address here and may add the P.O. Box in the mailing field. A common mistake is entering only a P.O. Box, which the county will not accept as a physical address. Many people think any address works, but the form specifically separates physical from mailing for a reason.
13. Seller’s Mailing Address (If Different)
This box asks for the seller’s mailing address only when it differs from the physical address. It ensures mail reaches the seller.
If your mail goes to the same place you live, leave this blank. If you use a P.O. Box or a different mailing location, enter it here.
For example, Daniel Reyes enters PO Box 55, Boise, ID, 83701 because his mail goes to a box.
What if mailing and physical are identical? Leave it blank, since repeating the address adds nothing. A common mistake is leaving the physical address blank and only filling mailing, which the county rejects. People often think both must always be filled, but mailing is only for when it truly differs.
14. Seller’s Idaho Driver’s License Number or SSN / EIN if Business
This box asks for the seller’s ID number to confirm identity in the record. A business seller uses its EIN.
Enter your Idaho Driver’s License number, or your SSN, or for a business the EIN. Copy it carefully from the source document.
For example, Daniel Reyes enters his license number AB123456.
What if the seller is from out of state? Enter the out-of-state license number or SSN as applicable. A common mistake is transposing digits, which can stall identity verification. Many sellers worry this exposes private data, but the form is a controlled state record, and the number is required for the transfer.
15. Seller’s Daytime Phone Number
This box asks for a phone number where the seller can be reached during the day. It lets the county or buyer follow up on questions.
Enter a ten-digit phone number including area code. Use a number you actually answer.
For example, Daniel Reyes enters (208) 555-0142.
What if the seller has no daytime phone? Provide any reliable number, such as a cell. A common mistake is leaving it blank, which makes follow-up impossible if a question arises. People often think this field is optional filler, but a reachable seller speeds up any later clarification.
16. Buyer’s Physical Address, City, State, Zip Code
These boxes ask for the buyer’s real street address. The county needs this to register the vehicle to a real location and route plates and renewals.
The buyer enters their street number, street name, city, state, and ZIP. A real physical address is required.
For example, Aisha Bello enters 15 Birch Ave, Meridian, ID, 83642.
What if the buyer just moved and has no Idaho address yet? They should use their current physical address, since registration ties to where they live. A common mistake is using the seller’s address by accident, which sends the buyer’s documents to the wrong place. Many buyers think a work address works here, but it should be a residence.
17. Buyer’s Mailing Address (If Different)
This box asks for the buyer’s mailing address when it differs from their physical address. It controls where registration mail lands.
Leave blank if mail and home match; otherwise enter the mailing address. Include a P.O. Box here if that is how the buyer gets mail.
For example, Aisha Bello leaves this blank because her mail comes to her home.
What if the buyer is moving soon? Use the address that will reliably receive mail during processing. A common mistake is filling this with the physical address again, which is redundant. People often think they must fill every box, but this one is conditional.
18. Buyer’s Daytime Phone Number
This box asks for a daytime phone number for the buyer. It supports contact during the titling process.
The buyer enters a ten-digit number with area code. Use a number that is answered during business hours.
For example, Aisha Bello enters (208) 555-0199.
What if the buyer prefers email contact? The form asks for a phone, so provide the best phone number anyway. A common mistake is skipping it, which slows any needed callback. Many buyers treat this as unimportant, but it is the county’s quickest way to reach them.
19. True Selling Price
This box asks for the actual dollar amount the buyer paid for the vehicle. It is the figure the county uses to calculate the 6% sales tax due at titling.
Enter the real price in dollars in the $ field. Write the exact amount agreed upon, not a rounded or reduced number.
For example, Aisha Bello and Daniel Reyes agree on $6,500, so 6,500 goes in the price box.
What if the vehicle is a gift? Enter the true amount, and if it is a genuine gift the buyer addresses tax treatment with the county. A common mistake is writing a fake low price to dodge sales tax, which is a felony under Section 49-518(5) and the most serious error on this form. Many people believe a “low price helps the buyer,” but it is criminal fraud with steep consequences.
20. Sale Date
This box asks for the calendar date the sale happened. It starts the legal clocks for both parties.
Enter the date in month, day, year order. Use the date the vehicle actually changed hands.
For example, the parties enter 06/01/2026 as the sale date.
What if the deal closed late at night across a date boundary? Use the date the keys and money changed hands. A common mistake is backdating to extend a deadline, which is falsifying a record. People often think the sale date is the date they sign paperwork, but it is the date of the actual transfer.
21. New Lienholder Name or “None”
This box asks whether a lender has a security interest in the vehicle. It tells the county whether to record a lien on the new title.
If the buyer is financing through a bank or credit union, enter that lender’s name and its address. If there is no loan, write None.
For example, Aisha Bello paid cash, so the parties write None.
What if the buyer is financing through a credit union? Enter the credit union’s full name and address so the lien records correctly. A common mistake is leaving this blank, which creates uncertainty about whether a lien exists. Many people think a private loan from a friend counts, but only a formal lienholder is recorded here.
22. Seller Certification and Seller’s Signature
This block is the seller’s sworn statement. By signing, the seller certifies the odometer reading is accurate, that all known brands were disclosed, and that they will file a release of liability within five days, and they acknowledge that a false price, name, or address is a felony.
Read the certification, then sign on the seller’s signature line marked X. Sign in ink with your normal signature.
For example, Daniel Reyes signs on the seller line after reading the certification.
What if there are co-owners on the title? Each owner listed on the title generally must sign. A common mistake is signing before reading the felony warning, which people regret if any entry is wrong. Many sellers think the signature is a formality, but it is a legal certification with criminal exposure.
23. Buyer Certification and Buyer’s Signature
This block is the buyer’s acknowledgment. By signing, the buyer states they are aware of the odometer certification, understand the seller must disclose brands, and understand they must apply for title within 30 days to avoid a penalty whether or not the vehicle is registered.
Read the acknowledgment, then sign on the buyer’s signature line marked X. Sign in ink.
For example, Aisha Bello signs the buyer line and notes the 30-day deadline on her calendar.
What if the buyer has not read the brands section? Read it before signing, because signing means you accept the disclosure. A common mistake is the buyer skipping the title application and blowing the 30-day window, which triggers a late penalty. Many buyers think registering later is fine, but the title clock runs even if the car sits parked.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three common Idaho sales, each followed from top to bottom of Form ITD 3738. Sample entries are shown so you can picture the finished form.
Scenario 1: Standard used-car private sale. Daniel Reyes sells his clean-title 2006 Honda Accord to Aisha Bello for cash in Boise.
| Form Section | What Daniel and Aisha Enter |
|---|---|
| Vehicle or Hull ID (1st) | 1HGCM82633A004352 |
| Title Number | T1234567 |
| Vehicle Year / Make / Model | 2006 / Honda / Accord EX |
| Brands | None checked (clean title) |
| Odometer Reading / Brand | 128450 / Actual Miles |
| Seller’s Full Legal Name | Daniel Andrew Reyes |
| Buyer’s Full Legal Name | Aisha Folake Bello |
| True Selling Price | $6,500 |
| Sale Date | 06/01/2026 |
| New Lienholder | None |
| Signatures | Both sign on the X lines |
Scenario 2: Rebuilt salvage vehicle with odometer nuance. Marcus Webb sells a 2014 Ford Focus that was totaled and rebuilt, to Janet Cole, who is financing through a credit union.
| Form Section | What Marcus and Janet Enter |
|---|---|
| Vehicle or Hull ID (1st) | 1FADP3F2XEL112233 |
| Title Number | T7654321 |
| Vehicle Year / Make / Model | 2014 / Ford / Focus SE |
| Brands | Rebuilt Salvage checked |
| Odometer Reading / Brand | 96250 / Actual Miles |
| Seller’s Full Legal Name | Marcus Lee Webb |
| Buyer’s Full Legal Name | Janet Marie Cole |
| True Selling Price | $4,200 |
| Sale Date | 05/28/2026 |
| New Lienholder | Pioneer Federal Credit Union, 12 Bank Rd, Nampa, ID 83651 |
| Signatures | Both sign on the X lines |
Scenario 3: Manufactured home with second VIN. Karen Mills sells a double-wide manufactured home to Tom Greer, an older odometer-exempt-style unit with no odometer field that matters.
| Form Section | What Karen and Tom Enter |
|---|---|
| Vehicle or Hull ID (1st) | MH998877A |
| Vehicle ID (2nd) | MH998877B (required for double-wide) |
| Full Length and Width | 56 x 28 |
| Vehicle Year / Make / Model | 1998 / Fleetwood / Broadmore |
| Odometer Reading / Brand | Exempt checked |
| Seller’s Full Legal Name | Karen Sue Mills |
| Buyer’s Full Legal Name | Thomas Ray Greer |
| True Selling Price | $38,000 |
| Sale Date | 06/03/2026 |
| New Lienholder | None |
| Signatures | Both sign on the X lines |
How to File the Completed Form
The Bill of Sale is a supporting document. The buyer files it together with the title and the Application for Certificate of Title (ITD 3337) at a County Assessor’s Motor Vehicle office, which handles titling for ITD.
In person. The buyer brings the signed title, the Bill of Sale, the completed title application, a valid Idaho Driver’s License, and proof of insurance to the local county DMV. Expect a $14 title transfer fee, 6% sales tax on the selling price, and registration fees that commonly run about $24 to $48 for passenger cars depending on age. Pay by cash, check, or card as the county allows, and keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing. New titles are typically mailed within a few weeks.
By mail. The buyer mails the same documents to the County Assessor’s Motor Vehicle office. Mailed transfers usually require a Motor Vehicle Power of Attorney so the county can sign the title application for the owner. Include a check for the fees, and keep a copy of everything you send plus a mailing receipt as proof.
Out-of-state vehicles. If the vehicle comes from another state, the buyer also needs a VIN Inspection before titling and must register within 90 days rather than 30. The county or a sheriff’s office can perform the inspection.
Seller’s release of liability. Separately, the seller should file a Release of Liability (Form ITD 3858) within five days of delivering the vehicle. This online or paper filing tells the state the seller no longer owns the car and protects them from later tickets or tolls.
What Happens After You File
Once the buyer submits the packet and pays the fees, the county records the transfer and orders a new Certificate of Title in the buyer’s name. The title is usually mailed within a few weeks, and the buyer leaves the counter with registration and plates the same day in most cases.
If a lien was listed, the county records it, and the lienholder may receive or hold the title until the loan is paid. A clean cash sale produces a clear title with no lien noted. The buyer should review the new title for errors as soon as it arrives.
The seller’s part finishes when the release of liability posts. After that, the state’s records show the buyer as the responsible party for the vehicle. If the seller skips the release and the buyer never registers, the seller can keep getting notices tied to the car.
If anything on the Bill of Sale was wrong, the county may contact the parties to fix it before issuing the title. This is why accurate names, VIN, and price matter so much. A correction can mean a second trip to the counter and a delay in the buyer’s title.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Writing a false low selling price. This is a felony under Idaho Code and can bring criminal charges and tax penalties.
- Entering the wrong VIN. The form will not match the title, and the county rejects the transfer.
- Using a nickname instead of a legal name. A name mismatch with the license stops the transfer at the counter.
- Leaving the title number blank. Staff cannot link the form to the title record, causing delays.
- Hiding a salvage or rebuilt brand. Undisclosed brands are felony exposure and a likely lawsuit from the buyer.
- Checking “Actual Miles” on a replaced odometer. This is a false certification with criminal risk.
- Giving only a P.O. Box as a physical address. The county will not accept it and sends the buyer back.
- Forgetting to sign on the X lines. An unsigned form is not valid and cannot be filed.
- Backdating the sale date. Falsifying the date is altering a legal record and can void the form.
- Skipping the buyer’s 30-day title application. A late buyer pays a penalty even if the car sits unused.
- Seller skipping the 5-day release of liability. The seller stays exposed to tickets and tolls tied to the car.
- Entering the same VIN in both VIN boxes on a car. The second VIN is only for motor homes and multi-section homes.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do print clearly in dark ink, because a county clerk must read every digit to process the transfer.
- Do match names to the driver’s license so the buyer’s title application clears without a mismatch.
- Do disclose every title brand, since honesty here protects the seller from felony charges and lawsuits.
- Do enter the true selling price, because the tax is based on it and a false figure is a felony.
- Do keep a signed copy, so the seller has proof of the sale date if a dispute arises later.
- Do file the release of liability within five days, since it cuts the seller’s ties to the vehicle.
Don’ts
- Don’t guess the odometer reading, because a wrong certification carries criminal risk.
- Don’t use only a P.O. Box for a physical address, since the county will reject it.
- Don’t sign before reading the certification, because your signature is a sworn legal statement.
- Don’t lowball the price to save tax, since that is the single biggest legal trap on the form.
- Don’t skip the second VIN on a manufactured home, because it is required for double-wide units.
- Don’t assume registering late is fine, since the 30-day title clock runs regardless of registration.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most private sellers and buyers handle Form ITD 3738 without help, but some prefer a title service or dealer assistance. Here is how the two paths compare.
Pros of filing on your own
- It is free, because the form costs nothing and you avoid service fees.
- It is fast for simple sales, since a clean cash deal needs only a few accurate boxes.
- You control accuracy, as you can verify every VIN and name yourself.
- You keep your records together, which helps if a dispute arises later.
- You learn the process, which makes future sales easier.
Cons of filing on your own
- You carry the legal risk, since a false entry exposes you to felony charges.
- You can miss a brand or VIN detail, which causes a rejected transfer.
- You must track two deadlines, the buyer’s 30 days and the seller’s 5 days.
- Mailed transfers get tricky, because they usually need a Power of Attorney.
- Out-of-state sales add steps, like a VIN inspection you must arrange yourself.
FAQs
Is Form ITD 3738 required to transfer a vehicle in Idaho? Yes. A Bill of Sale is needed to transfer title and registration, since it proves the sale, the price, and the odometer reading to the county DMV.
Does the Idaho Bill of Sale need to be notarized? No. Idaho does not require this Bill of Sale to be notarized; both parties simply print their names and sign on the X lines.
Is there a fee to fill out Form ITD 3738? No. The form itself is free to download and complete; fees apply only when the buyer applies for title and registration at the county DMV.
Do I write the seller’s name or the buyer’s name in the first name box? Yes, in the sense that order matters: the Seller’s Full Legal Printed Name comes first, and the Buyer’s Full Legal Printed Name is a separate box below it.
Do I need to enter the second VIN box for a regular car? No. The second VIN is only for most motor homes and is required for double-wide mobile and manufactured homes, so leave it blank for a standard car.
Do I check “Exempt” on the odometer for an old high-mileage car? Yes, if the vehicle is old enough or heavy enough to fall outside the federal disclosure rule; otherwise enter the reading and check Actual Miles.
Can I write a lower price to help the buyer save on sales tax? No. Listing a false selling price is a felony under Section 49-518(5), Idaho Code, and can bring criminal charges and tax penalties.
Do I enter a P.O. Box in the physical address box? No. The physical address must be a real street address; a P.O. Box can go only in the mailing address field if it differs.
How long does the buyer have to apply for title? Yes, there is a deadline: the buyer must apply for title within 30 days to avoid a penalty, whether or not the vehicle is registered.
Does the seller have any deadline after the sale? Yes. The seller must file a release of liability within five days of delivering the vehicle to the buyer to cut their ties to the car.
Do I write “None” if there is no loan on the vehicle? Yes. In the New Lienholder Name box, write None when the buyer paid cash so the county records a clear title with no lien.
Can I use this form for a boat or trailer, not just a car? Yes. Form ITD 3738 covers vehicles, boat hulls, trailers, and manufactured homes, which is why it asks for a Hull ID and length and width.
Do both co-owners need to sign if two names are on the title? Yes. Each owner listed on the title generally must sign as a seller for the transfer to be valid at the county DMV.
Is an out-of-state vehicle handled the same way? No. Out-of-state vehicles need a VIN inspection before titling, and the buyer has 90 days, not 30, to register the vehicle.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Oregon DMV Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Alaska DMV Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Hawaii County DMV Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Idaho ITD Application for Certificate of Title (Form ITD 3337) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Idaho ITD Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Idaho ITD Vehicle Registration Application + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs