The Idaho ITD Form 3337, the Application for Certificate of Idaho Title, is the document you file with the Idaho Transportation Department or your county assessor’s motor vehicle office to put a vehicle, vessel, or manufactured home into your legal name. Every Idaho buyer, heir, and gift recipient who takes ownership of a titled vehicle must file it, and a private buyer with no lien must do so within 30 days of the transfer.
Miss that 30-day window and you face a $20.00 late-filing penalty, and a single wrong box, like checking ACTUAL on a 12-year-old car, can bounce your whole packet back to you. Idaho law under Idaho Code Title 49, Chapter 5 requires this title work, and the form runs across seven sections and 69 numbered fields, so small errors add up fast.
Here is what you will learn in this guide:
- 📋 What Form ITD 3337 is, who must file it, and the exact deadline that triggers a penalty
- 🗂️ Every document and ID number to gather before you open the form
- ✍️ A line-by-line walkthrough of all seven sections, with sample entries you can copy
- 👨👩👧 Three full filled-out examples for a private sale, a financed car, and an inherited vehicle
- 💸 The current fees, filing channels, and the mistakes that get applications rejected
What Form ITD 3337 Is and Who Must File It
Form ITD 3337 is Idaho’s official application to issue a Certificate of Title, the state document that proves who legally owns a vehicle or vessel. The form is processed by the Idaho Transportation Department (ITD) Division of Motor Vehicles and by the 44 county assessor motor vehicle offices that act on ITD’s behalf. The legal duty to apply comes from Idaho Code Title 49, Chapter 5, which says a vehicle owner must title the vehicle when ownership changes.
Several types of filers use this one form. Private buyers who purchase a car from a neighbor file it. Heirs who inherit a vehicle file it. People who receive a vehicle as a gift file it. Dealers, financial institutions, leasing companies, and Idaho-registered manufactured-home agencies also use it, often filing on the customer’s behalf.
The deadline matters most. If you buy from a private party with no lien, you must file within 30 days of the transfer to avoid a $20.00 late-filing penalty. If you buy from an Idaho dealer, the dealer must file within 30 days of delivery, so you usually do not touch the form. If you buy from an out-of-state dealer who does not file for you, the 30-day clock and the penalty fall on you.
A common misconception is that a signed title alone proves ownership. It does not. Idaho recognizes you as the legal owner only after ITD issues a new title in your name, which is why the application is the step that actually transfers ownership on the state record.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything below before you open the form. A missing item is the top reason a county office hands your packet back, and each return can add days or weeks to the process.
- The properly signed prior title. The seller must release interest in the assignment section on the back. Without it, you cannot prove the chain of ownership, and you may be forced into the slower Bill of Sale route with extra steps.
- The full Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) or Hull Identification Number (HIN). This is the backbone of the title. A single wrong digit creates a title that does not match the vehicle, which blocks future sales.
- Odometer reading and status. Required for vehicles newer than 2010 under 16,000 pounds. The wrong status box triggers a federal odometer flag.
- Your Idaho driver’s license or ID card number. ITD cross-checks identity, and a mismatch holds processing.
- Your Social Security Number or, for a business, your EIN. Used when no Idaho license exists.
- Purchase date and gross sale price. These drive the 6% Idaho sales tax calculation.
- Lienholder name and mailing address, if financed. A missing lienholder means the bank’s interest is not recorded, which the bank will not accept.
- A VIN inspection certificate (ITD 3403) for out-of-state vehicles. Vehicles never titled in Idaho need a physical VIN check by law enforcement, a DMV employee, or a licensed dealer.
- Proof of Idaho residency and the title fee. Generally only Idaho residents and businesses may title here, and the office will not process an unpaid application.
- A Power of Attorney (ITD 3368), if filing by mail. This lets the county assessor sign the application for you.
The current form carries a revision date in its lower corner; confirm you have the 2025 revision before you write, because older versions route to outdated addresses.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
You can download Form ITD 3337 directly as a fillable PDF from the Idaho Transportation Department titles page, which always hosts the current revision. The direct file is the ITD 3337 PDF, and ITD publishes a separate step-by-step instructions document that explains every numbered field.
You can also pick up a paper copy at any county assessor motor vehicle office, such as the Ada County Assessor DMV. County offices keep the latest version on hand and can answer questions as you fill it in. Many filers prefer this route because staff can spot errors before submission.
Print the form on plain white paper, single-sided, and use black ink. The form is two pages, and page 2 holds important instructions about special features and section-by-section notes, so read it before you start. Do not fill out the form in pencil, because erasable entries are not accepted on a legal ownership document.
If you make a mistake on the paper form, do not use correction fluid. Idaho’s rule is simple: draw a single line through the wrong information, write the correct information next to it, and initial the change. A whited-out entry on a title application looks like tampering and can get the packet rejected.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out Form ITD 3337 Line by Line
The form has seven sections and 69 numbered fields. Work top to bottom, and use the exact box numbers printed on the form. Sample entries below are italicized so you can tell them apart from instructions.
Section 1, Field 1: Previous Idaho Title No.
This box asks for the Idaho title number from the existing Idaho title, if the vehicle was titled in Idaho before. Copy the number exactly as it appears on the front of the current title, with no extra spaces. If the vehicle comes from another state or has never been titled, leave this box blank.
For example, Dana Reyes titles a car she bought from an Idaho neighbor and writes 1A234567 from the old title. If you have a P.O. Box situation or cannot find the number, do not guess, because a wrong title number points to a different vehicle record. The most common mistake is copying the registration number instead of the title number, which sends the application to the wrong record and causes a hold. People often believe any number on the title works here, but only the title number, usually top-left, belongs in Field 1.
Section 1, Fields 2 and 3: 1st and 2nd Vehicle or Hull Identification No.
Field 2 asks for the main Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) or, for boats, the Hull Identification Number (HIN). Enter every character, letters and numbers, exactly as stamped on the vehicle. Motorhomes enter the chassis VIN here, and Field 3 holds a second VIN only when one exists, such as a motorhome coach VIN, the second VIN on a double-wide manufactured home, or an assembled vehicle.
For example, Marcus Webb enters 1HGCM82633A004352 for his Honda. If your vehicle is a single-VIN car, leave Field 3 blank rather than repeating the number. The most common mistake is confusing the number zero with the letter O, which creates a title that fails to match the vehicle at resale. Many people think the VIN on the registration is enough, but you should read it off the vehicle’s stamped plate to avoid carrying forward an old typo.
Section 1, Fields 4 through 9: Year, Make, Body Type, Model, Description, Color
These boxes describe the vehicle in plain terms. Enter the model year the manufacturer assigned in Field 4, the make in Field 5 (for example Chevrolet or Yamaha), the body type in Field 6 (such as four-door or pickup), the model name in Field 7 (such as Silverado), extra description in Field 8 (such as ATV or motorhome Class type), and color in Field 9.
For boats, Field 6 uses codes like PB for pontoon boat, PW for personal watercraft, and SB for sailboat. For example, Tina Olsen enters 2019, Toyota, four-door, Corolla, leaves Field 8 blank, and writes Silver in color. If the vehicle is two-toned, enter both colors in Field 9. A common mistake is leaving body type blank, which stalls boat and motorhome titles because Idaho needs the class or boat code. People often think “make” and “model” are the same, but Field 5 is the brand and Field 7 is the specific model name.
Section 1, Fields 10 through 17: Fuel, Wheel Base, Weight, Length, Width, Hull, Horsepower, Propulsion
These technical boxes apply to specific vehicle types. Fuel type (Field 10) is required for all trucks, entered as the first letter such as G for gas or D for diesel. Wheel base (Field 11) is required for ATVs and UTVs, weight (Field 12) takes actual weight for trailers, ATVs, and UTVs and gross weight for trucks, and length, width, hull material, horsepower, and propulsion (Fields 13 through 17) apply to trailers, boats, and motorhomes.
For example, Carlos Mendez titling a pontoon boat enters AL for an aluminum hull in Field 15 and PR for propeller in Field 17. If you are titling a standard passenger car, most of these boxes stay blank. The common mistake is entering 1T or 3/4T in the weight box for a truck, which Idaho rejects because it needs the numeric gross weight. People often skip fuel type on a truck, thinking it is optional, but it is mandatory and its absence stops the application.
Section 1, Fields 18 through 20: Odometer Reading, Status, and Date
Field 18 asks for the odometer number with no tenths, Field 19 asks you to check the odometer status, and Field 20 asks for the reading date. Write the whole-mile number, then check one status box: ACTUAL for a vehicle under 10 years old showing true miles, IN EXCESS when a 5-digit odometer rolled past 100,000, NOT ACTUAL when the odometer is broken, NO DEVICE when there is no odometer, or EXEMPT when the vehicle is over 10 years old.
For example, Dana Reyes enters 48230 and checks ACTUAL on her 3-year-old car, then writes the reading date 05/14/2026 in Field 20. If the previous title’s status was anything other than ACTUAL, you cannot check ACTUAL, because the brand carries forward. The most common mistake is checking ACTUAL on a vehicle over 10 years old, which is wrong and bounces the form; those vehicles take EXEMPT. People wrongly believe odometer disclosure is optional, but it is required by federal law for vehicles newer than 2010 under 16,000 pounds.
Section 1, Fields 21 through 23: Previous State, Brand, and Out-of-State Title No.
These boxes apply only to vehicles coming from another state. Field 21 takes the previous state abbreviation, Field 22 asks you to check a box if that state branded the vehicle (such as salvage), and Field 23 takes the out-of-state title number. For California titles, use the control number in the bottom-right corner that usually starts with CA.
For example, Marcus Webb moves from Oregon and enters OR in Field 21 and his old title number in Field 23. If the prior state branded the title as recovered theft, check the OTHER box in Field 22 and write the brand. The common mistake is leaving the brand box blank when a brand exists, which is a misrepresentation that can void the new title. People assume an out-of-state vehicle skips these boxes, but Idaho needs them, plus a VIN inspection, to issue a clean title.
Section 2, Fields 24 through 26: Owner #1 Name, ID, and Designations
Field 24 asks for Owner #1’s full legal name in LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE SUFFIX order, or a business name. Field 25 takes the Idaho driver’s license or ID card number, or the SSN if none, or the EIN for a corporation, company, or trust. Field 26 holds designation checkboxes: OR (any owner can sign to transfer), AND (all owners must sign), LSR for lessor, and DBA for “doing business as.”
For example, Reyes, Dana Marie writes her name in Field 24 and her Idaho license number in Field 25. Do not use titles like Mrs., Dr., or military rank, because the name must match the SSA and DMV records. The most common mistake is writing the name first-last, which creates a mismatch and a processing hold. People think OR and AND are interchangeable, but they control whether one or all owners must sign at the next sale, which is a major legal difference.
Section 2, Fields 27 through 32: Owner #2 and Owner #3 Name, ID, and Designations
These boxes repeat the Owner #1 rules for a second and third owner. Enter each person’s full legal name in LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE SUFFIX order in Fields 27 and 30, their license number or SSN in Fields 28 and 31, and any designation in Fields 29 and 32. For a leased vehicle, enter the lessee’s name and mark LSE; if a DBA business name applies, it goes in the Owner #2 or Owner #3 field as instructed.
For example, Webb, Marcus Lee and his spouse Webb, Sara Jane hold the car jointly, and they mark AND so both must sign to sell it later. If you have only one owner, leave Fields 27 through 32 blank. The common mistake is recording two owners with AND but listing only one signature in Section 7, which stops the transfer. People believe adding a co-owner is just a formality, but the OR or AND choice decides who controls the vehicle’s future sale.
Section 2, Fields 33 and 34: Owner’s Physical and Mailing Address
Field 33 asks for Owner #1’s legal physical address with city, state, and zip, and Field 34 asks for the mailing address only if it differs. The physical address must be a real street location, because Idaho ties residency and county fees to where you live. Enter the mailing address in Field 34 when you receive mail at a P.O. Box.
For example, Dana Reyes writes 742 Birch Ln, Boise, ID 83702 in Field 33 and her P.O. Box 1188, Boise, ID 83701 in Field 34. If your physical and mailing addresses are the same, leave Field 34 blank. The most common mistake is putting a P.O. Box in the physical address line, which Idaho rejects because it cannot verify residency. People think any address works, but the physical address sets your county, and that county sets the title admin fee you owe.
Section 3, Fields 35 through 38: Lienholder Information
This section records who holds a loan on the vehicle. Field 35 takes the primary lienholder’s name exactly as it should appear on the title, Field 36 takes that lienholder’s mailing address, and Fields 37 and 38 hold a second lienholder’s name and address if one exists. Leave the whole section blank if you own the vehicle free and clear.
For example, Marcus Webb financed through his bank and enters Idaho Central Credit Union in Field 35 and the bank’s lien-perfection address in Field 36. If the lender uses Idaho’s electronic lien (ELT) program, the title stays paperless until the loan is paid. The common mistake is misspelling the lender’s name, which the lender will reject and which delays the loan closing. People assume the dealer always handles the lien, but on a private financed sale you must record it here yourself.
Section 4, Fields 39 through 48: Sale Information and Dealer Details
This section drives the tax. Field 39 takes the Idaho seller’s permit number for dealer sales, Field 40 takes the purchase date, Field 41 asks you to check the type of sale (including Tax Exempt with a form number), Field 42 takes the gross sale price, and Fields 43 and 44 take the net Idaho sales tax due and collected. Fields 45 through 48 handle dealer-only items like rebates, trade-in allowance, adjusted gross price, and trade-in vehicle details.
For example, Dana Reyes leaves Field 39 blank on a private sale, writes the purchase date 05/01/2026 in Field 40, enters $9,500 in Field 42, and calculates the 6% Idaho sales tax in Fields 43 and 44. New manufactured homes use a special rate, multiplying 55% of the net price. The common mistake is understating the sale price to lower tax, which is fraud and can void the title. People think gifts and inheritances are taxed, but a genuine gift between family is exempt when you check the right box and attach proof.
Section 5, Fields 49 through 58: Agency / Dealer Information
This section is for dealers and Idaho-registered agencies, not private buyers. Fields 49 through 55 take the dealer or agency trade name, the authorized representative’s printed name and title, the dealer address, phone, fax, and email. Field 56 is the inspection certification checkbox, Field 57 is the authorized representative’s signature certifying the VIN inspection and release of interest, and Field 58 is the signature date.
For example, a dealer titling a sold car enters Treasure Valley Motors in Field 49 and the salesperson manager’s name in Field 50. If you are a private buyer, leave this whole section blank. The common mistake is a dealer forgetting to check the Field 56 inspection box, which voids the dealer’s VIN certification and returns the packet. People think any dealer employee can sign Field 57, but only an authorized representative who witnessed the signatures may certify it.
Section 6, Fields 59 through 63: Fees Paid
Field 59 is the title fee checkbox (the amount fills in automatically), Field 60 is the sales tax checkbox and amount, Field 61 is the optional $26.00 rush fee checkbox, and Field 62 is the total of all checked fees. Field 63 holds credit card details if you pay by card, including brand, card number, printed name, expiration date, and security code; leave it blank if you pay by check.
For example, Dana Reyes checks the title fee, enters her county’s sales tax in Field 60, skips the rush fee, and totals her fees in Field 62. If you need the title fast, check Field 61 and add $26.00. The common mistake is sending cash, which the form does not accept, since payment is by check or credit card only. People think the title fee is the same statewide, but each county adds an admin fee, so the total ranges from $14.00 to over $30.00.
Section 7, Fields 64 through 69: Signatures
This is where ownership is certified. Field 64 is the applicant’s signature, which must match the Owner #1 name in Section 2, Field 65 is the applicant’s daytime phone, and Field 66 is the signature date. Fields 67 through 69 are the co-applicant’s signature, phone, and date, required when owners are joined with AND.
For example, Dana Reyes signs Field 64 exactly as Dana Marie Reyes, writes her phone in Field 65, and dates it 05/14/2026. If the owner is a business, the business name appears with the signature and the signer’s title. The most common mistake is an unsigned application, which is the single fastest way to get a packet rejected, because an unsigned title application is legally void. People believe a typed name counts as a signature, but Idaho requires an actual handwritten signature here.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
Below are three of the most common situations Idaho filers face, each followed by one person through the form.
Scenario 1: Dana buys a used car from a private seller, no lien
| Form Section | What Dana Enters |
|---|---|
| Field 1, Previous Idaho Title No. | 1A234567 from the seller’s signed Idaho title |
| Field 2, VIN | 2T1BURHE0KC123456, read off the dashboard plate |
| Fields 4 to 9, Description | 2019, Toyota, four-door, Corolla, Silver |
| Fields 18 to 20, Odometer | 48230, status ACTUAL, date 05/14/2026 |
| Field 24, Owner #1 Name | Reyes, Dana Marie |
| Field 25, ID Number | Her Idaho driver’s license number |
| Field 33, Physical Address | 742 Birch Ln, Boise, ID 83702 |
| Section 3, Lienholder | Left blank, she paid cash |
| Fields 40 to 44, Sale Info | Purchase date 05/01/2026, price $9,500, 6% sales tax |
| Field 64, Signature | Signs Dana Marie Reyes, dated 05/14/2026 |
Scenario 2: Marcus buys a financed car from a private seller with a lien
| Form Section | What Marcus Enters |
|---|---|
| Field 2, VIN | 1HGCM82633A004352 off the door jamb |
| Fields 4 to 9, Description | 2021, Honda, four-door, Accord, Blue |
| Fields 18 to 20, Odometer | 31040, status ACTUAL, date 05/20/2026 |
| Field 24, Owner #1 Name | Webb, Marcus Lee |
| Fields 27 and 29, Owner #2 | Webb, Sara Jane, marked AND |
| Field 35, Primary Lienholder | Idaho Central Credit Union |
| Field 36, Lienholder Address | The bank’s lien-perfection mailing address |
| Fields 40 to 44, Sale Info | Purchase date 05/15/2026, price $22,000, 6% sales tax |
| Fields 64 and 67, Signatures | Both Marcus and Sara sign, since they chose AND |
Scenario 3: Janet titles a car she inherited from her late father
| Form Section | What Janet Enters |
|---|---|
| Field 1, Previous Idaho Title No. | The number from her father’s Idaho title |
| Field 2, VIN | 1FTFW1ET5DFA12345 off the truck |
| Fields 4 to 9, Description | 2013, Ford, pickup, F-150, Black |
| Fields 18 to 20, Odometer | 112500, status EXEMPT, since the truck is over 10 years old |
| Field 24, Owner #1 Name | Carter, Janet Ann |
| Field 33, Physical Address | 305 Pine St, Meridian, ID 83642 |
| Section 3, Lienholder | Left blank, the loan was paid off |
| Field 41, Type of Sale | Checks the exempt box, attaches inheritance proof |
| Field 64, Signature | Signs Janet Ann Carter, with an Affidavit of Inheritance |
How to File the Completed Form
You can file Form ITD 3337 through three main channels, and each has its own steps. Choose the one that matches how you bought the vehicle.
In person at a county assessor office. Take the completed form, the signed prior title, your ID, and payment to any county motor vehicle office, such as the Ada County Assessor DMV. Pay by check or credit card. The title fee is $14.00 plus your county admin fee, so Ada County totals $21.00, and most counties land between $14.00 and $32.75. Processing usually takes a couple of weeks unless you add the $26.00 rush fee, and you should keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing.
By mail. Mail the original application, the prior title, supporting documents, and a check to the Ada County Processing Center address printed on page 2 of the form, or to your local Idaho DMV office. Include a Power of Attorney (ITD 3368) so the county assessor can sign the application for you. Make copies of everything before mailing, because mailed originals are your only filed record.
Through a dealer, lienholder, or agency. If you bought from an Idaho dealer, the dealer files within 30 days of delivery, so you do nothing. A financial institution may file for a private financed sale, and out-of-state dealers and leasing companies may prepare and file the application too. Always confirm in writing that they filed, and ask for proof.
For lien recording on an existing title, you can mail the title and a $14.00 fee to the Idaho Transportation Department, Vehicle Services Section, P.O. Box 34, Boise, Idaho 83707, or submit it to your county office.
What Happens After You File
Once ITD or the county processes your application, the state updates its record and issues a new Certificate of Title in your name. If there is no lien, ITD mails the paper title to you, the registered owner. If there is a recorded lien, the title is mailed or electronically sent to your lienholder, and you receive it only after the loan is paid.
Idaho’s electronic lien and title (ELT) program keeps many financed titles paperless. The record stays electronic until the lender releases the lien, after which ITD prints the title and mails it to you the next day. This is normal and does not mean anything is wrong with your title.
Standard processing runs about two to three weeks, while a $26.00 rush request speeds it up. If your title is later returned as undeliverable, you can request a replacement at no fee if you file within 90 days. Watch your mail, because an undelivered title that sits too long forces you into the paid duplicate process.
If the issued title contains an error, the fix depends on the cause. If ITD made the mistake, the correction is free; if your original application gave faulty information, a $14.00 title correction fee applies, plus a signed letter of explanation.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the Form
- Writing the owner name first-last instead of LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE; this creates a record mismatch and a processing hold.
- Checking ACTUAL on a vehicle over 10 years old; the status is wrong and the form bounces back.
- Confusing a zero with the letter O in the VIN; the title will not match the vehicle at resale.
- Using correction fluid to fix an error; it looks like tampering and gets the packet rejected.
- Putting a P.O. Box in the physical address line; Idaho cannot verify residency and returns the form.
- Leaving the body type or boat code blank; boat and motorhome titles stall without it.
- Misspelling the lienholder name; the bank rejects it and the loan closing is delayed.
- Understating the sale price to cut tax; this is fraud and can void the title.
- Forgetting a co-applicant signature when owners chose AND; the transfer cannot complete.
- Entering 1T or 3/4T as truck weight; Idaho needs the numeric gross weight instead.
- Skipping the VIN inspection on an out-of-state vehicle; a never-titled vehicle cannot be issued a title without it.
- Filing past the 30-day deadline; this adds a $20.00 late-filing penalty.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do: – Do confirm you have the current 2025 revision before you start, because old versions route to outdated addresses. – Do read page 2 of the form first, since it holds section-specific instructions you will need. – Do enter the VIN by reading it off the vehicle, which avoids carrying forward an old typo. – Do file within 30 days, because the late penalty is automatic. – Do keep copies of everything, since mailed originals are your only filed record. – Do match your signature to the exact Owner #1 name, because a mismatch voids the application.
Don’t: – Don’t use titles like Dr. or military rank in the name field, since the name must match official records. – Don’t pay with cash, because the form accepts only check or credit card. – Don’t guess at a missing title number, since a wrong number points to a different vehicle. – Don’t leave the odometer status blank on a newer vehicle, because federal law requires it. – Don’t white out errors; line through, correct, and initial instead. – Don’t assume the dealer filed, because confirming protects you from the late penalty.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
| Filing on Your Own (Pro Se) | Filing With a Dealer, Agency, or Service |
|---|---|
| Saves money, since you pay only the state title and tax fees | Costs more, because dealers or services add their own fees |
| Gives you full control over accuracy on every field | Hands off the paperwork, which saves you time and effort |
| Builds your own understanding of the title record | Relies on professionals who file these forms daily and rarely err |
| Takes more of your time to gather documents and visit the office | Frees your time, but you must confirm in writing that they filed |
| Risks errors if you misread a field like odometer status | Reduces error risk, since experienced filers know the pain points |
FAQs
Do I have to file Form ITD 3337 within a deadline? Yes. A private buyer with no lien must file within 30 days of the transfer to avoid an automatic $20.00 late-filing penalty under Idaho titling rules.
Do I write my name first or last in Box 24? No, never first. Idaho requires LAST, FIRST, MIDDLE SUFFIX order in the Owner #1 name box so it matches Social Security and DMV records.
Do I check ACTUAL in the odometer status box for an old car? No. A vehicle over 10 years old takes the EXEMPT box, not ACTUAL. Checking the wrong box gets your application returned.
Do I need a VIN inspection for an out-of-state vehicle? Yes. A vehicle coming from another state or never titled in Idaho needs a VIN inspection by law enforcement, a DMV employee, or a licensed dealer.
Do I leave Section 3 blank if I paid cash? Yes. The lienholder section stays empty when you own the vehicle free and clear with no loan recorded against it.
Do I owe sales tax on a gifted vehicle? No, not on a genuine gift. Check the tax-exempt box in Section 4 and attach the proper exemption proof so no 6% Idaho sales tax applies.
Do I put my P.O. Box in the physical address field, Box 33? No. Box 33 needs a real street address for residency. Put the P.O. Box in the mailing address line, Box 34, instead.
Do OR and AND mean the same thing in the designation boxes? No. OR lets any single owner sign to transfer the title, while AND requires every owner’s signature to sell the vehicle.
Do I need to sign the form myself? Yes. Box 64 requires the applicant’s actual handwritten signature matching the Owner #1 name. A typed name or unsigned form is legally void.
Do I pay the same title fee everywhere in Idaho? No. The base title fee is $14.00, but each county adds an admin fee, so totals range from $14.00 to $32.75 by county.
Do I have to use the rush fee? No. The $26.00 rush fee is optional. Without it, standard processing takes about two to three weeks before your title arrives.
Do I file this form if I bought from an Idaho dealer? No. The Idaho dealer must prepare and file the application within 30 days of delivery, so you usually do not touch the form yourself.
Do I need a Power of Attorney to file by mail? Yes. Include ITD 3368 so the county assessor can sign the application for you when you file through the mail.
Do I use correction fluid to fix a mistake on the form? No. Draw one line through the error, write the correct information, and initial it. White-out looks like tampering and gets the form rejected.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Iowa DOT Application for Certificate of Title (411007) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Oregon DMV Application for Title and Registration (Form 735-226) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Idaho ITD Application for Duplicate Title + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Idaho ITD Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Idaho ITD Vehicle Registration Application + FAQs
- How to Fill Out North Dakota DOT Application for Certificate of Title (SFN 2872)
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs