The Kansas Bill of Sale is the lower half of the Affidavit to a Fact (TR-12), the official Kansas Department of Revenue form that records the price and details of a vehicle sale and, for older vehicles, can transfer ownership itself. You use it to prove what you paid, lock in the sales tax you owe, and protect both the buyer and seller if a dispute comes up later. The form is published by the Kansas Division of Vehicles, and the current version is marked Rev. 6-22 in the bottom corner.
Getting this one page right matters more than most people think. Kansas processes hundreds of thousands of private vehicle transfers each year, and a single wrong VIN digit, a missing date, or a “rounded down” purchase price can stall your title work or trigger a sales tax audit at the county treasurer’s office. This guide walks you through every box, line, and signature so you can finish it once and finish it right.
Here is what you will walk away knowing:
- 🚗 How to fill out every field on the TR-12 Bill of Sale, line by line
- 💵 How the Purchase Price box sets the sales tax you pay at registration
- 🖊️ When you also need the Antique Vehicle Transfer of Ownership section
- 📋 Three real filled-out examples for the most common Kansas sale types
- ⚠️ The mistakes that get a TR-12 rejected and how to dodge every one
What the TR-12 Bill of Sale Is and Who Must File It
The TR-12 is a two-part Kansas form. The top part is the Affidavit to a Fact, used to certify things like gifts, name changes, and non-use. The bottom part is the Bill of Sale, which the form itself defines as “an affidavit of the amount of money or value that was exchanged between the seller(s) and buyer(s) for the vehicle listed herein.” This article focuses on that Bill of Sale half, the part most private buyers and sellers need.
The agency that receives it is the Kansas Department of Revenue, Division of Vehicles, through your local county treasurer’s motor vehicle office. The buyer hands it in when applying for a new title and registration. The seller signs it to swear the price is true under penalty of perjury.
Here is the part that trips people up. For a normal car or truck, the Bill of Sale is a supporting document, not the thing that transfers ownership. Kansas law requires that “all other vehicles sold by or purchased from a Kansas resident must have the ownership transferred (sold) by assigned title.” Only antique vehicles, meaning vehicles 35 model years old or older, can actually change hands by bill of sale alone, and only through the special Antique Vehicle Transfer of Ownership section at the bottom.
So two groups need this form. The first is everyday buyers and sellers who want a clean record of the price and the deal. The second is people buying or selling an antique vehicle that has no Kansas title, who rely on the TR-12 as the actual transfer document.
Before You Start: Documents and Information You Need
Gather everything before you pick up a pen. A half-finished TR-12 with a guessed VIN or a missing address is worse than no form, because it can send the buyer back to the seller for a re-do.
Here is your pre-filing checklist:
- The vehicle title. You copy the year, make, and VIN straight from it, and a normal sale still needs the assigned title to transfer ownership. Without it, the buyer cannot title the car.
- The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). This 17-character code (shorter on older cars) is the heart of the form. A wrong VIN voids the match between the form and the title.
- The exact year and make. These must match the title and the VIN decode. A mismatch makes the treasurer question the whole document.
- The agreed purchase price. This sets your sales tax. You need the real, final number, not a placeholder.
- The date of sale. This starts the clock for the 60-day Kansas titling deadline. A missing date makes that clock impossible to prove.
- Full legal names of buyer and seller. Names should match the title and each person’s ID so the treasurer can cross-check them.
- Current mailing addresses for both parties. The state uses these for tax records and any follow-up notices.
- Photo ID for both parties. You will need it at the treasurer’s office, and it confirms the names on the form.
- For antique vehicles, proof of age and possibly an MVE-1. Vehicles 60 model years old or newer that sell on a bill of sale need a Motor Vehicle Examination (MVE-1) from the Kansas Highway Patrol.
If any item is missing, the safe move is to wait. A buyer who titles late faces penalties, and a seller who signs a blank-price form has sworn to nothing useful.
Where to Get the Form and How to Access It
The official, free source is the Kansas Department of Revenue. You can download the current TR-12 (Rev. 6-22) as a fillable PDF directly from the Division of Vehicles forms page, listed as “Affidavit to a Fact/Bill of Sale (TR-12).” Always confirm the revision date in the lower corner so you are not using an expired version.
You can also get it from your county. Most county treasurers post it, such as the Riley County motor vehicle forms page and the Johnson County motor vehicle forms page. The county versions are the same state form.
You have three ways to complete it. You can type into the PDF on a computer and print it, which gives the cleanest, most readable result. You can print it blank and fill it in by hand in dark ink. Or you can pick up a paper copy at the treasurer’s counter and complete it there before you file.
One caution. Many third-party websites offer “Kansas bill of sale” templates. For a price record, those can work, but for an antique transfer or any official title work, use the actual state TR-12 so the treasurer accepts it without question.
Step-by-Step: How to Fill Out the TR-12 Bill of Sale Line by Line
The Bill of Sale sits on the second page of the TR-12. Work top to bottom: seller block, buyer block, vehicle information, the sworn signatures, and, only if needed, the antique transfer section. Use the exact field labels printed on the form.
Seller Information: Printed Name
The form asks for the seller’s printed name in the Seller Information block. This is the person or business selling the vehicle.
Print the seller’s full legal name, not a nickname, in clear letters. Use the name as it appears on the vehicle title, because the treasurer cross-checks the seller against the title’s registered owner. For example, Robert J. Stanton writes his name exactly as it reads on his Kansas title.
What if two people own the car together? Then both owners are sellers, and both names belong here and on the signature line. A common edge case is a business sale, where you write the registered business name, such as Prairie Auto LLC.
A frequent mistake is writing a casual version of the name, like Bob Stanton when the title says Robert J. Stanton. The consequence is a name mismatch that can hold up the buyer’s title application until it is corrected. Many people wrongly believe any version of their name is fine. It is not, because the state matches names letter for letter against title records.
Seller Information: Address, City, State, ZIP
These fields capture where the seller lives or does business. They appear as Address, City, State, and ZIP in the seller block.
Write the seller’s current street address, city, state, and five-digit ZIP code on each matching line. Keep it the mailing address the state can reach, not a former one. For example, Robert J. Stanton enters 1420 Oak Lane, Topeka, KS, 66604.
A common edge case is a P.O. Box. If that is where the seller gets mail, it is acceptable here, though a physical address is preferred when both exist. Out-of-state sellers simply enter their home state in the State field.
A common mistake is leaving the ZIP blank or guessing it. The consequence is an incomplete form that the treasurer may reject for missing required information. People often think the address is optional since the deal is already done. It is not, because the Bill of Sale is a sworn tax record tied to a real person at a real location.
Buyer Information: Printed Name
The Buyer Information block asks for the printed name of the person buying the vehicle. This is who will own and title the car.
Print the buyer’s full legal name as it appears on their photo ID. The buyer’s name here should match the name they will put on the title application, so the records line up. For example, Maria L. Delgado prints her full legal name in the buyer’s Printed Name field.
What if more than one person is buying? List every buyer’s name, and have each one sign below, because all owners must be named consistently across the title and the form. A married couple buying together both belong here.
A common mistake is the buyer using a shortened name that does not match their driver’s license. The consequence is extra back-and-forth at the counter and a possible delay in titling. Some buyers think only the seller’s name truly matters. That is false, because the buyer’s name drives the new title and the sales tax record.
Buyer Information: Address, City, State, ZIP
These lines record where the buyer lives, listed as Address, City, State, and ZIP in the buyer block.
Enter the buyer’s current street address, city, state, and ZIP code. Because the buyer titles the car in the county where the vehicle is garaged, this address should reflect where they actually live. For example, Maria L. Delgado writes 908 Willow Court, Lawrence, KS, 66046.
An edge case is a buyer who is about to move. Use the address where the car will be kept and titled, since that county treasurer handles the registration. A buyer with only a P.O. Box should add a physical address if the county requires one for titling.
A common mistake is entering a work address or an old address out of habit. The consequence can be tax records and notices going to the wrong place, plus county confusion over where to register the vehicle. Buyers often assume the address just needs to be “close enough.” It does not, because it ties the vehicle to a specific Kansas county for tax and registration.
Vehicle Information: Year
The Vehicle Information section starts with Year, the model year of the vehicle being sold.
Enter the four-digit model year exactly as it appears on the title, such as 2016. This is the model year, not the year you bought it or the year of the sale. For example, for a 2016 Honda Civic, you write 2016.
The year also decides whether the antique rules apply. A vehicle 35 model years old or older counts as antique, which unlocks the special transfer section. So in 2026, a 1990 model year vehicle qualifies as antique.
A common mistake is confusing model year with the year of purchase. The consequence is a vehicle that does not match its title, which can flag the form. People sometimes think the year is a minor detail. It is not, because it controls both the title match and whether antique transfer rules apply.
Vehicle Information: Make
The Make field asks for the manufacturer of the vehicle.
Write the make exactly as shown on the title, such as HONDA, FORD, or TOYOTA. Use the standard manufacturer name, not the model. For example, the seller of a Honda Civic writes HONDA in the Make field, not Civic.
A common edge case is a trailer or a less common brand. Use whatever make appears on the title or the manufacturer’s certificate of origin, even if it is an unfamiliar name.
A frequent mistake is writing the model instead of the make, like Civic instead of Honda. The consequence is a mismatch with the title that the treasurer must question. People often blur “make” and “model.” Keep them separate, because the state matches the make against the title and VIN.
Vehicle Information: VIN
The VIN field is the single most important box on the form. It is the Vehicle Identification Number that uniquely identifies the car.
Copy the VIN exactly from the title, character by character, in capital letters. Modern VINs are 17 characters of letters and numbers, while older vehicles may have shorter VINs. For example, Robert J. Stanton copies 2HGFC2F59GH512345 straight from his title.
A key nuance is the look-alike characters. VINs never use the letters I, O, or Q, so any character that looks like one of those is actually the number 1 or 0. Double-check every digit against the title and the dash plate.
A common mistake is transposing two characters or misreading an 8 as a B. The consequence is serious, because a VIN that does not match the title can void the document and stop the title transfer entirely. Some people think a close VIN is good enough. It is not, because the VIN is how Kansas links this exact vehicle to its records.
Vehicle Information: Purchase Price
The Purchase Price: $ field is where you state the dollar amount exchanged for the vehicle. This number drives the Kansas sales tax the buyer pays at registration.
Write the full, true sale price in dollars, such as $8,500. If the vehicle was a true gift with no money exchanged, that is handled through the gift certification on the affidavit side, not by writing a fake low price here. For example, Maria L. Delgado enters $8,500 because that is what she actually paid.
The nuance is the sworn tax link. Kansas charges state and local sales or use tax on the purchase price when the buyer titles the vehicle, so this number directly sets the tax bill. The treasurer can also compare it against the vehicle’s value if it looks far too low.
A common and costly mistake is writing a falsely low price to dodge tax. The consequence is severe, because both parties sign under penalty of perjury, and a false statement can mean tax fraud penalties, back tax, and worse. Many people believe price is negotiable on paper. It is not, because you are swearing under oath that the stated price is “true and accurate.”
Vehicle Information: Date of Sale
The Date of Sale field records the day ownership changed hands.
Write the actual date the sale happened, using a clear format like 03/14/2026. This is the day the buyer paid and took the vehicle, not the day you fill out the form if they differ. For example, Robert J. Stanton and Maria L. Delgado both agree the sale closed on 03/14/2026.
This date is more than a formality. Kansas gives the buyer 60 days from the purchase date to apply for title and registration, so this box starts that countdown. An antique buyer also reads this date for the antique title deadline.
A common mistake is leaving the date blank or back-dating it. The consequence of a blank date is that no one can prove when the 60-day clock started, and back-dating can push the buyer into a penalty. People often treat the date as optional. It is not, because it governs the filing deadline and any late penalty.
Sworn Signatures: Signature of Seller and Buyer, with Dates
Below the vehicle information is the sworn statement and the signature lines: Signature of Seller, Date, Signature of Buyer, and Date. The printed oath says, “By our signatures, we swear and affirm the above stated purchase price is true and accurate under penalty of perjury.”
Each party signs on their own line and writes the date they signed. Sign in ink with your normal legal signature. For example, Robert J. Stanton signs the seller line and dates it 03/14/2026, and Maria L. Delgado signs the buyer line and dates it 03/14/2026.
A nuance many miss is that the standard Bill of Sale is generally not notarized. In Kansas, it is the title assignment signature that usually must be notarized, not this Bill of Sale. Do not skip the form thinking it needs a notary it does not require.
A common mistake is one party signing and the other forgetting. The consequence is an incomplete sworn statement that may not be accepted, since both swear to the price together. People sometimes think only the seller signs a bill of sale. That is wrong here, because both the buyer and seller affirm the price under oath.
Antique Vehicle Transfer of Ownership (Antique Vehicles Only)
This bottom section, Antique Vehicle Transfer of Ownership, is the only part of the TR-12 that actually transfers ownership by bill of sale. The form says to “complete only if no title is available,” and only for “an antique vehicle (vehicle that is 35 model years old or older) when there is no Kansas title for the vehicle in the name of the owner/seller.”
Complete the buyer’s name in the transfer sentence, then fill the Date vehicle was sold and delivered field and the Signature of Seller line. By signing, the seller certifies they own the vehicle, that no title has been issued in their name in any jurisdiction, and that they guarantee the vehicle “free and clear from all defects, liens or encumbrances.” For example, Earl Hutchins names Dale Whitford as buyer, dates the delivery 04/02/2026, and signs as seller.
A critical nuance is the MVE-1 rule. Per the form’s Notice to Buyer, “any antique vehicle being sold on a bill of sale that is 60-years old or newer will require an MVE-1 (Motor Vehicle Examination) issued by the Kansas Highway Patrol,” submitted when applying for an antique title. Application for title must be made within 60 days of the purchase date, with penalties starting on the 61st day.
A common mistake is using this section for a regular car that has a title. The consequence is a rejected transfer, because non-antique vehicles must move by assigned title, not bill of sale. People often assume any old car can be sold “on a bill of sale.” It cannot, because only vehicles 35 model years or older with no available title qualify.
Three Filled-Out Examples Using Real Scenarios
These three scenarios show the most common ways Kansans use the TR-12 Bill of Sale. Each follows one named buyer or seller through the key fields.
Scenario 1: Standard Private Car Sale Between Strangers
Maria L. Delgado buys a 2016 Honda Civic from Robert J. Stanton for cash. The car has a clear Kansas title, so the TR-12 records the price while the title transfers ownership.
| Form Field | What Maria and Robert Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller Printed Name | Robert J. Stanton |
| Seller Address | 1420 Oak Lane, Topeka, KS 66604 |
| Buyer Printed Name | Maria L. Delgado |
| Buyer Address | 908 Willow Court, Lawrence, KS 66046 |
| Year | 2016 |
| Make | HONDA |
| VIN | 2HGFC2F59GH512345 |
| Purchase Price | $8,500 |
| Date of Sale | 03/14/2026 |
| Signature of Seller / Date | Robert J. Stanton / 03/14/2026 |
| Signature of Buyer / Date | Maria L. Delgado / 03/14/2026 |
Scenario 2: Low-Price Family Transfer
James “Jim” Carter sells an older pickup to his nephew Tyler Carter for a low family price of $1,000. The truck has a title, so ownership transfers by assigned title, and the TR-12 honestly records the real $1,000 price for tax.
| Form Field | What Jim and Tyler Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller Printed Name | James R. Carter |
| Seller Address | 317 Elm Street, Salina, KS 67401 |
| Buyer Printed Name | Tyler J. Carter |
| Buyer Address | 45 Maple Drive, Salina, KS 67401 |
| Year | 2009 |
| Make | FORD |
| VIN | 1FTRF12W19KA98765 |
| Purchase Price | $1,000 |
| Date of Sale | 02/20/2026 |
| Signature of Seller / Date | James R. Carter / 02/20/2026 |
| Signature of Buyer / Date | Tyler J. Carter / 02/20/2026 |
Scenario 3: Antique Vehicle With No Title
Earl Hutchins sells a 1968 pickup with no available title to collector Dale Whitford for $4,200. Because the truck is over 35 model years old and has no title, Earl completes both the Bill of Sale and the Antique Vehicle Transfer of Ownership section.
| Form Field | What Earl and Dale Enter |
|---|---|
| Seller Printed Name | Earl D. Hutchins |
| Buyer Printed Name | Dale Whitford |
| Year | 1968 |
| Make | CHEVROLET |
| VIN | C1446S123456 |
| Purchase Price | $4,200 |
| Date of Sale | 04/02/2026 |
| Antique Transfer Buyer Named | Dale Whitford |
| Date Sold and Delivered | 04/02/2026 |
| Antique Section Signature of Seller | Earl D. Hutchins |
How to File the Completed Form
The TR-12 Bill of Sale is not mailed by itself to the state. The buyer submits it as part of their title and registration packet at the county treasurer’s motor vehicle office.
In person at the county treasurer. This is the main channel. The buyer brings the assigned title, the completed TR-12, proof of insurance, and photo ID to the treasurer in the county where the vehicle is garaged. You can find your office through the Kansas County Treasurers Association. At the counter, the buyer pays sales tax based on the Purchase Price, plus title and registration fees, usually by cash, check, or card depending on the county. Keep your stamped receipt as proof of filing.
By mail. Many counties accept title applications by mail. The buyer sends the assigned title, the TR-12, and other required forms to the county treasurer’s mailing address listed on that county’s site, with a check for the tax and fees. Processing takes longer than in person, often a couple of weeks, so keep copies of everything and use trackable mail as your proof.
Antique title filings. For an antique transfer, the buyer files within 60 days at the treasurer in the county where the vehicle will be kept, attaching the completed antique section and, when required, the MVE-1 from the Kansas Highway Patrol. Keep both the bill of sale and the MVE-1 copies.
There is no separate fee for the Bill of Sale itself. The costs you pay are the sales or use tax on the purchase price plus the standard title and registration fees set by the state and county.
What Happens After You File
Once the buyer files the TR-12 with the title work, the county treasurer reviews the packet and confirms the form is complete. The form notes that the “KS Division of Vehicles will make the final determination if the form is properly completed,” so the treasurer can ask for corrections if a field is missing or unclear.
If everything checks out, the buyer pays the calculated sales tax and fees and receives a registration and tag on the spot for in-person filings. The new title is then mailed by the state, usually within a few weeks. The Bill of Sale stays in the file as the sworn record of the price.
For antique transfers, the treasurer reviews the antique section and any MVE-1, then issues an antique title and, if requested, a model-year or antique plate. Because there was no prior title, this record becomes the foundation of the vehicle’s ownership history.
Keep your own copy forever. If the state ever questions the sale price, or a future buyer asks about the vehicle’s history, your signed TR-12 is the proof that the deal happened exactly as stated.
Mistakes to Avoid When Filling Out the TR-12
Small slips on this form cause real delays and, in the worst cases, penalties. Watch for these:
- Wrong or transposed VIN. A VIN that does not match the title can void the document and block the title transfer.
- Writing the model instead of the make. Entering Civic instead of HONDA creates a mismatch the treasurer must resolve.
- Confusing model year with sale year. A wrong year fails the title match and can misclassify an antique.
- Stating a false low purchase price. Lying about price is perjury and can bring tax fraud penalties and back tax.
- Leaving the Date of Sale blank. Without it, no one can prove when the 60-day titling clock started.
- Only one party signing. Both buyer and seller must sign, because both swear to the price under oath.
- Using a nickname that does not match ID or title. Name mismatches stall the buyer’s title application.
- Using the antique section for a titled car. Regular vehicles must transfer by assigned title, not bill of sale.
- Forgetting the MVE-1 on a qualifying antique. Missing the inspection blocks the antique title.
- Missing the 60-day filing deadline. Late titling brings penalties that start on the 61st day.
- Using an outdated form version. An old TR-12 may lack required language; confirm it reads Rev. 6-22.
- Leaving address or ZIP fields blank. Incomplete address info can get the form rejected as incomplete.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
- Do copy the VIN, year, and make straight from the title, because the state matches them exactly.
- Do write the true purchase price, because you are swearing to it under penalty of perjury.
- Do have both buyer and seller sign and date, because both affirm the price together.
- Do keep a signed copy for your records, because it is your proof if a dispute arises later.
- Do confirm the form reads Rev. 6-22, because using the current version prevents rejection.
- Do file the buyer’s title work within 60 days, because late filing triggers penalties.
Don’ts
- Don’t round the price down to save tax, because false statements can mean fraud penalties.
- Don’t use the antique section for a titled car, because those must transfer by assigned title.
- Don’t leave any required field blank, because the treasurer can reject an incomplete form.
- Don’t sign before the price and date are filled in, because you are swearing to whatever is written.
- Don’t rely on a random online template for official title work, because counties expect the state TR-12.
- Don’t skip the MVE-1 on a qualifying antique, because the antique title will not issue without it.
Pros and Cons of Filing on Your Own vs. With Help
Most private sales are simple enough to handle yourself, but some situations are smoother with help from the treasurer or a pro.
Pros of filing on your own
- It is free, since the TR-12 costs nothing to download and complete.
- It is fast for simple sales, because a clean title and clear price need little more than the form.
- You stay in control, filling in your own names, price, and dates exactly as agreed.
- You learn the process, which helps with future vehicle sales.
- You avoid third-party fees, since no service is needed for a basic transfer.
Cons of filing on your own
- Mistakes are on you, and a wrong VIN or missing field causes delays.
- Antique transfers get complex, with MVE-1 inspections and strict deadlines.
- Tax surprises happen, if you do not expect sales tax on the purchase price.
- No one double-checks you, unlike a treasurer clerk who can catch errors at the counter.
- Multi-owner or out-of-state deals add wrinkles that are easy to get wrong alone.
FAQs
Is the TR-12 the same as the TR-312 bill of sale?
No. The TR-12 is the “Affidavit to a Fact” with a Bill of Sale section, while the TR-312 is a standalone Bill of Sale. Both record a sale price.
Can I transfer a regular car using only the TR-12 bill of sale?
No. Only antique vehicles 35 model years or older with no title transfer by bill of sale. All other vehicles must transfer by assigned title.
Does the TR-12 Bill of Sale need to be notarized?
No. The standard Bill of Sale is generally not notarized. In Kansas, it is usually the title assignment signature that must be notarized, not this form.
Do both the buyer and seller have to sign the bill of sale?
Yes. Both sign, because the form states both parties swear the purchase price is “true and accurate under penalty of perjury.”
What do I write in the Purchase Price box for a gift?
No money means you use the gift certification on the affidavit side, not a fake price. The Purchase Price box reflects actual value exchanged.
Can I write a lower price to pay less sales tax?
No. That is perjury. Both parties swear the price is true, and a false statement can bring tax fraud penalties and back tax.
Do I put the model year or the year I bought the car in the Year box?
No to the purchase year. You enter the vehicle’s model year exactly as it appears on the title.
Should I write the make or the model in the Make field?
Yes, write the make, such as HONDA or FORD. Do not write the model like Civic, because the state matches the make to the title.
How long do I have to title the vehicle after the sale?
Yes, there is a deadline. The buyer has 60 days from the Date of Sale to apply for title, with penalties starting on the 61st day.
Do antique vehicles always need an MVE-1?
Yes for many. Antique vehicles 60 model years old or newer sold on a bill of sale need an MVE-1 from the Kansas Highway Patrol before titling.
Is there a fee to file the TR-12?
No. The form itself is free. You pay sales or use tax on the purchase price plus standard title and registration fees at the treasurer.
Where do I submit the completed TR-12?
Yes, there is a set place. The buyer submits it with the title work at the county treasurer’s motor vehicle office where the vehicle is garaged.
Can I use an old version of the form I already have?
No, not safely. Confirm your form reads Rev. 6-22, because older versions may lack required language and can be rejected.
What if the seller’s name on the title differs from their ID?
Yes, that is a problem. A name mismatch can stall titling, so use the One and the Same Person affidavit section to certify the names match.
Related reading
- How to Fill Out Kansas Application for Certificate of Title (TR-212a) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Kansas Application for Duplicate Title (TR-720B) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Kansas Odometer Disclosure Statement (w/ Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Kansas Vehicle Registration Application (w/Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out a Kentucky Vehicle Bill of Sale (w/ Examples) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out the Oklahoma Declaration of Vehicle Purchase Price (Form 722-1) + FAQs
- How to Fill Out Delaware DMV Application for Duplicate Title (Form MV213) + FAQs